0:23 - Where did he get that cup which holds coffee inside it's own mold form, form mold ? - I noticed you should have spilled it on this comment time stamp. Interesting prop segue to the lesson if I'm correct on my observation of inertia vs dispersion...but I wouldn't be surprised if I was wrong.
Volcanised Concrete was the first concrete formed poured and floated from below water, to the surface. Argentinean concrete psi was the first from a higher ph of coral calcium lime, the strongest. The Pyramid stones were cut with water pressure, as the Sons of God were giants in those days never polluted the altar with man's tools. The polished look of a pristine finish used the same technology as making windows with heat and pressure form shape to shape form. Otherwise the Transformer tribe of Optimus Prime would never be just a cartoon.
In the case where the water table frequently rises into the level where footers will be, it seems to me that stone and schedule 40 drainage might be ineffective (home withe elevated slab or slab-on-grade). What would you suggest in this case? I was wondering about contiguous epdm laid over the excavation site (giant pond liner) then footers poured, then stem walls and the outside edge of the epdm would be affixed to the outside perimeter of the stem wall. Are foundation contractors doing this anywhere? Why or why not?
For the typical residential home, full underslab waterproofing is not necessary, though one should always design for site conditions. Most builders do not lay down a layer of EPDM because standard site drainage is adequate for most locations.. However, building code does require footings be placed on undisturbed soil, so you would not likely be allowed to run it under the footings. If the groundwater is rising above the footing, waterproofing on the wall should be done to a height of one foot higher than the anticipated water level. If you have a slab on grade floor and the water rises above it, you have a flood and EPDM is unlikely to help.
@@coselladorken water table historically 6-24 inches below grade. Planning an elevated slab as I've seen in coastal Carolina with good drainage stone under the slab. So paint stem walls with waterproofing and maybe another layer of delta footing barrier on top of the stem wall too (not just top of the footer)? Engineer also suggested a reinforced vapor barrier over crushed stone fill, before pouring slab. Thoughts?
@@grizzlya1257 Firstly, remember that DELTA®-FOOTING BARRIER is a capillary break, meant to prevent by physical separation the passage of water through the footing into the foundation wall due to capillary action. It is not waterproofing and would not be considered water-tight. Capillary breaks between the foundation/stem wall and the primary structure are also important, as wood ought not sit directly on concrete. A common method is sill plate gasket installed after the concrete is cured. DELTA®-FOOTING BARRIER could be used but should always be applied when the concrete is wet. We agree with your engineer on the wisdom of a vapor barrier underneath your basement slab. See DELTA®-MS UNDERSLAD www.dorken.com/en/our-products/products/residential/delta-ms-underslab.php An underslab vapor barrier is a good idea no matter what the ground water level. It will add to the comfort of the building. DELTA®-MS or DELTA®-DRAIN make a good drainage/protection layer for your waterproofing as well.
I'm having trouble finding information on basements where there is a high water table at least some of the time (such as during spring runoff.) Everything says in such conditions you will build it "like a bathtub" and details are "beyond the scope"... Any links to details about this?
Joe you mentioned cracks appearing below grade and thereby causing a water problem. I want to know why we don't run some rebar diagonally, like we see in metal trusses. Wouldn't this simple step go a long way to prevent wall cracks, especially at corners
No Steve, rebar only stops large cracks, not small cracks. Design standards like CSA A23 and ACI318 allow cracks of 0.3 mm in even finished concrete. Only way to avoid cracks is prestressed concrete, and even then it is hard. Precast concrete can go a long way, because of quality concrete and building cracks into the system (that would be the edges of the panel).
Beyond the need for water flow control below grade, might the crystalline additives work to forestall total degradation of footings and mortar due to capillary action such that useful life could be extended to a couple of hundred years. Big, intact pieces. between cracks would still have some structural benefit if they weren't totally deteriorated by continuous freezing and refreezing. We need to make buildings last for generations, membrane protection seems to be falling short of this if product warranties are any indication.
0:23 - Where did he get that cup which holds coffee inside it's own mold form, form mold ? - I noticed you should have spilled it on this comment time stamp. Interesting prop segue to the lesson if I'm correct on my observation of inertia vs dispersion...but I wouldn't be surprised if I was wrong.
Volcanised Concrete was the first concrete formed poured and floated from below water, to the surface. Argentinean concrete psi was the first from a higher ph of coral calcium lime, the strongest. The Pyramid stones were cut with water pressure, as the Sons of God were giants in those days never polluted the altar with man's tools. The polished look of a pristine finish used the same technology as making windows with heat and pressure form shape to shape form. Otherwise the Transformer tribe of Optimus Prime would never be just a cartoon.
In the case where the water table frequently rises into the level where footers will be, it seems to me that stone and schedule 40 drainage might be ineffective (home withe elevated slab or slab-on-grade). What would you suggest in this case? I was wondering about contiguous epdm laid over the excavation site (giant pond liner) then footers poured, then stem walls and the outside edge of the epdm would be affixed to the outside perimeter of the stem wall. Are foundation contractors doing this anywhere? Why or why not?
For the typical residential home, full underslab waterproofing is not necessary, though one should always design for site conditions. Most builders do not lay down a layer of EPDM because standard site drainage is adequate for most locations.. However, building code does require footings be placed on undisturbed soil, so you would not likely be allowed to run it under the footings. If the groundwater is rising above the footing, waterproofing on the wall should be done to a height of one foot higher than the anticipated water level. If you have a slab on grade floor and the water rises above it, you have a flood and EPDM is unlikely to help.
@@coselladorken water table historically 6-24 inches below grade. Planning an elevated slab as I've seen in coastal Carolina with good drainage stone under the slab. So paint stem walls with waterproofing and maybe another layer of delta footing barrier on top of the stem wall too (not just top of the footer)? Engineer also suggested a reinforced vapor barrier over crushed stone fill, before pouring slab. Thoughts?
@@grizzlya1257 Firstly, remember that DELTA®-FOOTING BARRIER is a capillary break, meant to prevent by physical separation the passage of water through the footing into the foundation wall due to capillary action. It is not waterproofing and would not be considered water-tight. Capillary breaks between the foundation/stem wall and the primary structure are also important, as wood ought not sit directly on concrete. A common method is sill plate gasket installed after the concrete is cured. DELTA®-FOOTING BARRIER could be used but should always be applied when the concrete is wet.
We agree with your engineer on the wisdom of a vapor barrier underneath your basement slab. See DELTA®-MS UNDERSLAD www.dorken.com/en/our-products/products/residential/delta-ms-underslab.php An underslab vapor barrier is a good idea no matter what the ground water level. It will add to the comfort of the building.
DELTA®-MS or DELTA®-DRAIN make a good drainage/protection layer for your waterproofing as well.
When is Joe’s Musings of an Energy Nerd going to be published? I imagine all his stories could make for a very fun read!
I'm having trouble finding information on basements where there is a high water table at least some of the time (such as during spring runoff.) Everything says in such conditions you will build it "like a bathtub" and details are "beyond the scope"... Any links to details about this?
The solution is to not build the basement.
Joe you mentioned cracks appearing below grade and thereby causing a water problem. I want to know why we don't run some rebar diagonally, like we see in metal trusses. Wouldn't this simple step go a long way to prevent wall cracks, especially at corners
No Steve, rebar only stops large cracks, not small cracks. Design standards like CSA A23 and ACI318 allow cracks of 0.3 mm in even finished concrete. Only way to avoid cracks is prestressed concrete, and even then it is hard. Precast concrete can go a long way, because of quality concrete and building cracks into the system (that would be the edges of the panel).
@@jfstraube How about pouring XYPEX into concrete to waterproof the entire mass of the concrete structure? www.xypex.com/products/the-xypex-advantage
Although diagonal bars work to resist forces they only engage after the crack forms. They keep the crack small but it still leaks.
Xypex works to stop water through small pores and really tiny cracks. Most problematic cracks are larger than can filled by crystallization.
Beyond the need for water flow control below grade, might the crystalline additives work to forestall total degradation of footings and mortar due to capillary action such that useful life could be extended to a couple of hundred years. Big, intact pieces. between cracks would still have some structural benefit if they weren't totally deteriorated by continuous freezing and refreezing.
We need to make buildings last for generations, membrane protection seems to be falling short of this if product warranties are any indication.
What below grade water control layer do you want? The Cary Grant barrier!
I love it "holy roman empire" lol
Joe, your cup is empty. Have an nice single malt instead.