Seriously have to thank UA-cam for this. Because if it didn't exist we wouldn't have these wonderful videos! You go into great detail on your projects, and that is what truly counts, to me. So thanks again!
Doug, this set of videos is absolutely amazing. I'm about to start building a speaker cabinet and this just answered about every question I had. Everything is explained in great detail and very thoroughly. Thank you for taking the time to share all your experience.
Doug, I have some old pine that I salvaged and it looks about the same as the wood in the vintage Fender amps. I don't know amp tech work all that well but I can do woodwork. These finger joint jigs work great. I have also used biscuit joints for amp cabinets and this method is also very strong.
Hi Uncle Doug, Thanks for the first part of this cabinet build. Great process, intuitive teaching skill, and excellent results. Can't wait to see part two! Thanks for your kindness in sharing your knowledge! Kind Regards, Steve
there's always a hidden Gem video in your catalog of you tube videos Doug. for me, this is one of them.. I know a lot have said it before, but let me say it again. thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us and taking the time to upload it.
Uncle Doug, your videos are the best! You have explained the ins and outs of tube amps in a simple yet comprehensive manner. Keep those wonderful and funny "TV" shows coming(I mean you and Rusty). In some future video could you explain what a preamp bypass capacitor actually does. Thanks.
Thanks so much, HT. Nothing makes me happier than hearing that my videos have been helpful and appreciated. Re the "preamp bypass cap", I must admit that I am not familiar with that term. Perhaps you are referring to a cathode bypass capacitor, which boosts volume and enhances bass response when utilized in a preamp tube. Again, thanks !!!
Excellent videos mate, very concise and well explained. Why anybody would give this a thumbs down is beyond me.I'm going to be attempting to make my own speaker cabinet soon, but i neither have the tools or the skill to make finger joints or upholstery like you expertly do, but i enjoyed the whole series.
+Jammy Git Thanks so much. Rusty and I are not sure about the thumbs down either, Jammy. I guess some folks just can't be pleased :) Sadly, YT allows them to post their disdain without having to explain why. It amounts to totally unconstructive criticism. Best of luck with your project :)
Uncle Doug Thanks Doug i'll need it as it'll be my 1st attempt :-o Apart from your craftsmanship, i also liked the bits where you asked Rusty if he/she was gonna help you clean up etc....Rusty walked away in disgust haha.
Uncle Doug Cheers mate but i've hit a snag already in the planning :-( I'm waiting for my local timber yard to get back to me with a quote for pine boards, so that's in hand, i've chosen the loudspeaker, a celestion g12 m greenback12 inch 25 watt 8 or 16 ohm (i'm not sure which is best for a 5 watt tube amp head but it can be used with 8 or 16 ohm) i'm ready to order that so that's in hand. I'm looking for a 1/4 inch input jack but am struggling to find any on ebay or amazon, maybe i'm searching wrongly as i don't know exactly what they're called as i've never wired anything like a speaker cab. Also the wires from the jack input to the speaker itself, i don't own a soldering iron so soldering isn't an option but i've seen people connect the speaker with these push on connectors but i don't know what they're called and i'm searching aimlessly. So i'm wondering if you could maybe give me some advice like, 1, are there advantages with 8 ohm or 16 ohm speakers? If so which would you prefer in a 1x12? 2, what's the exact name of the jack input into the cab? And 3, what kind of speaker wires with the push on connectors are the correct ones to get? and maybe give me some links to some sites where i can find what i need for questions 2&3 please. Sorry for so many questions Doug but you seem to know all there is to know about amps & speakers. I could just get an empty 1x12 cabinet but i'd really like to try making my own.
The speaker impedance really doesn't matter as long as it matches the output transformer. The 8 ohm is more common and the impedance I generally use. You need to shop for parts at Antique Electronic Supply in Tempe, AZ. It's always more difficult to make something yourself.....but always much more rewarding.
Rusty likes to chew on pieces of scrap wood that I throw at the trash pail....and miss. It makes for some unusual "surprises" when cleaning up the back yard. Some day an archeologist will probably declare that these bizarre wood fiber "sculptures" have a religious connotation :)
I know the sentence is an oxymoron, Dave, but, in this case.....much to my amazement and the jealousy of many onlookers......I found the holy grail at Home Depot: A fairly straight board. Naturally, they charged me double for it and I was banned for life.....but it worked well for the cabinet.
Love your videos ! regarding the hole for the speaker baffle, I use a laminate trimmer (small router) to cut perfectly symetrical holes. I made a quick jig out of plywood onto which the trimmer is attached, screw the jig to the center of the baffle board -much like your compass - and rotate that baby - start with a shallow cut then increase blade depth until your through - perfect hole every time. You could even use it as a template to make one of those cones for Rusty's neck, if he ever has an operation ....
I like your suggestion regarding an alternate way to cut speaker holes, Peter. Hand-held saber saws are no fun at all to wrestle around in a circular pattern. I always end up having to do a lot of touch up afterwards. I'll give your suggestion a try on my next baffle. Re Rusty, let's hope he never needs a cone or an operation. I don't think he would be a very good patient :)
Somewhere on youtube a guy posted a video of premade finger joint cabinets for $20 at the store. The cabs were made for bee hives at honey farms. You just needed to buy wood for the back and assemble them. Finger joints already cut. No brainer.
“Sniffing of the Plank!” Isn’t that a lost B-side from a Spinal Tap EP? Man,a table saw would make things a LOT easier(or not depending on how many fingers I lose.That WOULD happen to me. Build a pine cab for better sound and wind up with less digits to play guitar with;-) I already have nightmares about my router! Nah, I’ve built a couple. It’s great therapy!
A table saw can be your greatest tool acquisition.....or the end of your guitar career, William. Either way, it's better than drowning in someone else's vomit ;)
just to clarify, my fingers are all the same just like yours except where you used a narrow finger I used a larger by 1\4" finger. your videos are supreme! i am trying to build this project legitimate but tools of course are an issue somewhat. I bought router bits that I will mount to a drill and monkey rig to a table to save on the cost of a router table. and for the finger joints I may have to file them all into spec! more motivation than time or money is my situation
Thanks, John. I doubt that a drill can spin the router bit fast enough to make smooth cuts. Routers operate at a very high RPM.....much higher than drills. Filing the finger joints would be quite a task, but I guess if you have the time and patience, anything is possible. Good luck :)
Top quality work! The finger joint jig looks much more efficient than doing them by hand (the way I did mine). I used a plunge router with a home made circle cutting jig to cut my speaker hole, I will be glad to share my technique if your interested.
I've used a router with a circle cutter and made some nice holes, but I think that your method using the router table is much better. To do a proper job with a router and a circle cutter, you need a scrap piece the size of the baffle underneath to support the baffle. If you don't support it, it's kind of like cutting a tree limb off while you are standing on it.
Doug, one suggestion to use a method that I think might work for the T-nuts. I use a Forstner bit to recess the T-nut head just a tad. It doesn't have to be done but I do it anyway. Also, I put a dot of black paint on the end of the bolt so it won't show through the grill cloth.
Greetings, BB. I too recess the T-nuts if the grill cloth is attached directly to the speaker baffle....so there is no bulge in the grill cloth....but with a grill cloth that is spaced away from the baffle, I didn't think it was necessary. If you watch the Part 2 video, the T-nuts, bolt ends, and baffle are all painted flat black (as you mention).
Nice lesson here, thanx very much, Doug!! As I´m not doing my own cabinets, because i´m always short on time, I find this very interesting on how to make one of these Cabs. Please show us how to tolex, as I got myself some heads which I like to have in new tolex, and I never done this right by now, since i don´t know how to do this. My first attempt tuns out to be very awlful and I quit doing this ;) I may suggest you to write something in the inner cabinet, may someone in 30 years will be curious who had done this work ;)
You're welcome, Tubical. I will indeed be posting video(s) showing how to cover this cabinet with Tolex, leatherette, etc. in the near future. It's a little tricky at first, but like lots of challenges, not so hard once you get the knack. Also, I generally do attach a card within my homemade amp cabinets to tell archeologists in the future who was responsible for creating the odd little device they have uncovered....:)))
6yrs late to this one. Nice Doug :) Have you ever tried using a ceiling diffuser for a speaker grill? It takes a taller and wider baffle to accommodate but it works quite well and looks cool. I wonder if I am the first to do this?
The chisel is a time-honored tool for box joints, Ant, but unless you have the skills of Michaelangelo, it can't touch a Dado blade for precision. I kept my chisel, but only use it sparingly......generally for home carpentry use.
Sir, great build, truly a Master I would love to apprentice for. A suggestion for improvement, with your approval; you use T-nuts for securing the speaker to the baffle, a very pragmatic and necessary modification, would it also make sense to use T-nuts when securing the baffle to the cleats? Your opinion on this will be carried forward and given high regards.
Thanks so much, Brian. I would agree with their use to mount the speaker baffle to the cleats.....especially if they were installed in the front of the baffle itself, like those for the speaker, hidden by the grill cloth and allowing for invisible but very secure fastening of the baffle to the cleats. Good idea !!
I'm planning on making the cab bigger. Would I have to use pine that is less thick? If so what would be an arbitrary thickness. Thank you for the insightful videos.
Greetings, OTM. I recommend 3/4" pine for all medium to large cabinets. It is structurally superior to thinner wood....which would be of particular benefit in larger, heavier cabinets.
I found a couple good planks and chose cuts without nots in the wood. I'm also planning to cut my finger joints to include a larger finger instead of a slim finger to add strength. if you remade your project is there anything you would change?
Knot-less pine is probably better, and I do select my boards in this regard. Larger fingers are actually weaker than smaller ones.....just like fine-thread screws are stronger than coarse thread. The more surface contact in the joint, the better. Actually I probably wouldn't change anything in this cabinet. It turned out just fine.....at least IMHO :)
Are the spacers that the grill cloth sits on needed if your wood baffle has a decent thickness to it? because then the speaker is technically far enough away from the grill cloth that it won't touch it?
The spacers are not to prevent the speaker from hitting the grill cloth. By lifting the grill cloth away from the baffle, it allows the speaker to move air through the entire grill cloth, not just the circle of grill cloth over the speaker. This is how Fender does it.
Great videos by the way. I have a danelectro honey tone mini guitar amp that I am interested in retrofitting in a wooden cabinet of almost the same dimension 5x2x4 not exact
Greetings Doug. I'm building a similar pine box cabinet a bee (brood) box for $20. Anyway I noticed in this video you mentioned that the power leads to the speaker be positioned perfectly straight down. Is this because your amp is beneath it or is there another reason? I ask because my amp will be on top of cabinet. Thanks Doug. As always your lessons are the best!..Sky
That video was made long ago, Sky. I guess I meant that, as you surmised, the leads should go in the direction of the chassis. Good luck with your project.
@@UncleDoug Thanks for your quick response Doug. I don't know how you do it...answering all your UA-cam fan mail. But you do w detailed, courteous responses. Who knows. Maybe 1 day our paths will cross. I would like to buy you a beer.
Great video! I'm about to build a head cab and matching speaker cab for a tweed Champ clone I currently have in a 1X10 combo cab. I'll size the speaker cab appropriately so I can can make 2 baffles: 1 for a 10" speaker, and 1 for a 12" speaker. I didn't read all of the comments, so I apologize if it was asked and answered, but why not use a 1X10 piece of pine, instead of adding the extra inch of wood on the front? Not being critical, but just wondering if there's a functioning reason for it, other than you wanted a little more clearance. I'd think a 1X10 plank would achieve that as well, and keep the box to 4 pieces of wood. Just curious. Thanks again, for the great video!
Oh snap! I wanted to add, I didn't realize that you're the guy that makes the great "How Tube Amplifiers Work" videos, which are excellent! Thanks for explaining things in a way people often confused by this stuff can understand!
@@UncleDoug That makes sense. I have a great 10' 1x12 board, with good grain, that's straight as can be, but I got it from a lumber yard. I'd rather save that for something else, instead of ripping it to 10", and get a 1X10 board, but we'll see.
Do you have any thoughts about edge glued pine boards? Our local Menard's has edge glued pine 1 X 12s. They are 25 to 40% more expensive than no. 2 pine and still have knots, but they should be straighter and flatter than regular pine 1 X 12s.
I'm not familiar with the term, Bill. Do they soak the open grain at the end of the boards in glue to seal them? I don't see how this would make a difference in the straightness of the board......unless they only edge glue better grade lumber.
Edge glued boards are made by gluing narrower boards together to make a wide board, much like a table top. This allows the grain to be reversed on adjacent narrow boards which may reduce warping. I probably wouldn't bother with a 1 X 8 or narrower, but the 1 X 12s that I have seen are pretty straight and flat. You can get the edge glued boards as wide as 18 or 24 inches. I've been seeing edge glued Aspen boards for some time, but only recently seen them in Pine. The knots are small and there should be less waste. I haven't noticed, but there are probably finger joints in the narrow boards. These should be staggered and shouldn't affect the strength of the board.
Now I understand, and it makes great sense. Such composite boards would not only be flatter, but also more interesting if stained and finished. I only use 1" x 8" (maximum) for my cabinets, so this may not apply to my needs, but I can definitely see why others, who need wider boards, would prefer this method to warped, wavy "natural" wood.
It's the way Fender does their speaker baffles, TT, and I have heard all sorts of explanations why.....including that without the spacing the grill cloth will make a flapping noise against the baffle. How you could hear the faint flapping of grill cloth while the speaker is blasting "Foxy Lady" at 135dB I have no idea. I have my own theory: Grill cloth (some more than others) cuts down on the flow of air as the speaker cone moves back and forth, and suppresses its motion. If you glue the grill cloth to the baffle, then all the speaker's air has to pass through an area of grill cloth equal to the diameter of the speaker hole. If the grill cloth is floating above the baffle, then the speaker's air can pass through the entire rectangular area of the grill cloth, greatly reducing suppression.
Uncle Doug Your theory makes sense. I was browsing different designs and cabinets and it seems like it's 50/50 to use spacers or not, and I assume that not using the spacers is more of a function of having to do less work. I have a cabinet with no spacing and have not heard any flapping ... but since I am building a new one I may as well take the few extra minutes and space it. Thanks for the reply.
You're welcome, TT. Since Fender was famous for cutting economic corners, the fact that they persisted in spacing out their grill cloth tells me that there really is a benefit to doing so. Best of luck with your project :)
I must say that “pepe amazing plan” (Google it) is a great wood working book. It gives lots of general info that will help any beginner and also some seasoned wood worker. Surprisingly, this book has been my partner when I wish to look up woods at areas and other topics such as restoring as well as salvaging spots.
I was describing the clearance for each side of the baffle, Pief, which would be for one layer of grill cloth and one layer of covering material. Naturally, since there are two horizontal sides and two vertical sides, the overall dimensions of the baffle must provide for twice this amount.
It's impossible for me to say, without all the measurements and/or a diagram of the cabinet, but I guess you could cut out the single-hole speaker baffle and install a 4 x 12" hole baffle.
Kristopher, I think you should look at your speaker baffle and determine if there is sufficient surface area for four 12" speakers. Perhaps you could cut four 12" circles out of cardboard and see if they fit. If they do, then replace your single-hole baffle with one that has proper cutouts for your four speakers.
For very heavy amp cabinets, I use metal L-angle internal braces also, at the inside top-side intersections. It would be a shame if the whole cabinet and chassis were to break away and fall down a flight of stairs :)
If you do finger joints by hand you mark out the same as you have.Then you clamp and line up the finger and make very precise slow cut's with a fine cut tenon saw.It's all about take time and being very precise with centering those elongated cut's....
You sir, are extremely cool. Almost everything I search UA-cam for pops up a video you made, in which you describe the subject calmly, and with little bits of tangential wisdom. Thanks a lot, man 👍😎
so where can you get straight boards? Is home depots birch 3/4" plywood ever straight? Also, on that video with the finger joint jig they did not show anything about making the "key" to align the jig... having that be perfect would be very important to the tightness of your joints wouldnt it?
The select pine boards at either Lowe's or Home Depot are generally straight enough for small cabinet building, CM. Yes, the key is simply a small piece of wood exactly the same height and width as the notches being cut in the ends of the planks.
Dovetails would have made a big difference. Slso a pc fan to get the hot sir out pat tubes is best idea. Doesnt need to interfere with amp. Could run off 5v.
That is beautiful, Uncle Doug. I don't think there is anything like this detail on YT - you may even turn me into a precision cabinet builder (in my dreams). Thank you.
Thanks so much, David. I would trade half of my woodworking skills for half of your knowledge of electronics any day. Your input and guidance have been immensely beneficial during the past year. Thank you.
Wow, you are an expert craftsman, DIY of congratulatory precession of a lost art for the most part. Thankful to be able to get such valuable information over the entire series. You need to have you on reality show on PBS!
LoL! Rusty sniffing the pine plank..and he approves. 3/4 inch common pine. You can get a dovetail jig that you can use a router on, but I made my cabinets the old school way with making a box joint template (outside and inside) and a coping saw. Glad you mentioned to a square to make sure all 4 corners are square after applying glue though. Titebond glues dries very quickly, so it's always a race when applying glue to the finger joints on all 4 pieces.
+Uncle Doug; I built one cabinet with those box joints and being "el cheapo" to get a dovetail/box joint commercial jig for my router, I decided to make a template of the interlocking joints and cut out the wood with a coping saw. Personally I am very scared of wobbly dado blades on the table saw. They are somewhat dangerous to your fingers if you happen to lose concentration for even a fraction of a second. I would use a box finger joint that you can use a small handheld router or works as well on a table saw, similar to what this site is selling. www.elitetools.ca/en/product/gabarit-incra-i-box-pour-joint-de-boite/ In my case doing it the hard way by a hand held coping saw, It took 4 times (four sides) as long to make the joints to fit reasonably well before glueup. Unlike a routered box joint, cutting manually with a coping saw, you have the blade kerf error which leads to sloppy joints and trying to get those finger joints flat to mate properly (rasping the wood against the longitudinal grain was a real PiTA. Then I had to use makeshift 90 degree squares to make sure each corner was 90 degrees. In retrospect, I should have bought the router jig., for about$200 or less and had perfect fitting tight joints. This is one operation where you don't save anything not buying one.
+Uncle Doug I've run into this problem with any of the fast setting glues. TiteBond does make a product called TiteBond II Extend, which has a longer open time for complex joinery, such as dovetail joints or box joints. The other thing that you can try to extend the glue set time is to pre-wet the finger joints where you are going to apply the glue, with a small brush and a bit of water. The pre-wet joints will extend the glue setup time by soaking into the pine itself and allow by a few minutes giving you more time to apply the glue, assemble and clamp the joint(s). Once the presoaked joints air dry, the glue starts to setup. Might buy you another 20 minutes or so of gluesetup time.
Your woodworking skills appear to be on par with your electronic knowledge. Once again, you've supplied me with the missing pieces I need to do more stuff. Now I'm confident to attempt a clone of my '56 Tweed Princeton, as well as the cabinet for a mod of an old Hammond AO-35 reverb driver amp that I think is gonna make a nice Vox AC-15 type of circuit with the EL-84 out put stage. Thanks again, Doug. Also, give Rusty a pat on the head and a biscuit. He''s your buddy.
You're quite welcome, JP. It sounds like you have a pair of excellent projects. Best of luck. Be sure to let us see how they turn out. Rusty sends his regards and appreciation for the pats and dog biscuit :) ^. .^
Uncle Doug, yes I call him Uncle Doug, after watching his videos anyone can plainly see when he does something it's done right and it's professional ,he's a perfectionist, and him and I are going to be very good friends because I'm in the middle of a very big project that I'm take pride in thank you My Uncle Doug.
Greetings, Sorin. I generally allow about 0.5 to 1 inch on either side of the speaker rim. The top and bottom clearance varies depending on where the chassis is located. You have to be very careful to provide sufficient clearance between the speaker and the tubes and transformers. It's no fun to find out that your chassis won't fit in the cabinet due to speaker interference. Good luck :)
EL34XYZ Yes, indeed, EL.....all planks must be thoroughly sniffed before construction can begin. It's good to know that Rusty's not the only dedicated plank sniffer out there :)
If it's also called EL34 World, then yes, I not only use the forum often as a reference but recommend it frequently to viewers. I think it's one of the best amp forums in existence.
Hey Doug, Thanks for your videos! You’ve really inspired me to branch out of my comfort level when it comes to custom woodworking. I’m currently attempting to build a replacement cabinet for my 52 Fender Deluxe Wide panel. I’m hoping to go without the tweed and give it a nice stained finish if I can avoid any mistakes. Is there any main difference with plywood vs solid? I have some nice ¾” red oak plywood leftover from a previous project and I’m thinking about using it. Keep the videos coming!!
boganjd I would say that although plywood is stronger than solid wood, it's harder to work with.....when cutting the inlets for box joints, it tends to splinter, and uncovered box joints will expose the laminated ends, which are not particularly attractive (IMHO). My feeling is that plywood would be fine if you intended to cover the cabinet, but might not be suitable for a bare, finished cabinet. Again, simply my personal preference and others may disagree.....but I always try to give an honest opinion, based on experience, when asked.
I can see you're gifted with woodworking! That's where I admittedly fall short. My area of expertise is the electronics end of things...My cabinet designs would have master cabinetmakers laughing so hard, the threshold of pain would be reached :) That said, I have to stay with what I know best, which is the electronics...You do excellent and very neat work...If Rusty approves, it has to be good! :) As always, I enjoy your videos...
Thanks so much, Frank. When I was working exclusively on Jukeboxes, many years ago, I had to develop a lot of cabinet-making and woodworking skills. They have served me well in this new hobby.
There's a local guy in my neighborhood that does cabinet making, I just give him pictures and dimensions and he knocks the project out in a matter of 2 hours; he has a lot of specialized wood-working tools and lathes.
I've gotta say, after 4 semesters at ITT Tech, those who cower in the face of arithmetic, should probably run now. Run fast and far, because it only gets deeper, and if ohms law causes anything but elation, maybe you should leave this part to the rest of us. We will gladly carry the torch into tomorrow, with a cheerful smile as we accept payment for biasing your amps.
It's not TRIG, or, perish the thought, Calculus 😭, Rolling on the floor clinching my sides from laughing harder than I have in years. I nearly pissed myself. Good show Sir.
Sure, Wiley. I have seen some commercial amp cabinets that don't have box joints. As long as you intend to cover the cabinet with a material, who would know? Just screw or nail the heck out of the joints, use plenty of good glue, and be sure to have panels in the upper and lower rear to keep the cabinet square.
"And now We must have the Official Sniffing of the Plank." That was So Kool, Your Dog giving the Quality Control Approval! It caught me off guard, it made me laugh so hard, that really was so Funny to see your Dog! I love Dogs! Anyway... sorry, I just had to say it! Good Day Mate!
Texas Muddog Thanks so much TM.....glad you enjoyed it. I always rely on Rusty's keen sense of smell to alert me to incompetence and poor quality materials :)
Thank you - Uncle Doug for the reply! I putted up your Posting, because I wish to build my own Speaker Cabinet. A friend of mine gave me (1) - Carvin PS-10 / 200 Watt / 8 ohm Speaker. I don't want to buy a cabinet (used or new). I just want to try my hand at building one myself! I'll get back to you if I have any questions or concerns about my build. Thanks Again! Good Day Mate!
Uncle Doug, for building a simple head cabinet (no speaker), and using minimal tools (I'll have to have the wood cut by Home Depot), what kind of corner joints are best? Butt joint, or rabbet, etc.? Have you seen any good videos on how to make them?
Finger joints are best, but since you have no power tools, it would seem that you are limited to butt joints, which are the weakest of all possibilities. If you can gain access to a table saw and dado blade set, then this is an excellent video on how to cut box or finger joints: ua-cam.com/video/AiPzFNsuN2k/v-deo.html
Okay, and thanks for the video link! I also might look into a bisquit-type joint. That tool seems like a nice initial investment. I have no garage, etc., so table saws and the like are out of the question. Cheers and thanks!
Hi Uncle Doug, a couple questions if you have time to answer. I don't have access to pine, and I'm not a woodwork buff - I'm an electronics hobbiest?? Currently living in Indonesia and pine is uncommon around where I live. 4 choices I have are plywood, mahogany, merbau and teak. Does the timber used affect the sound the amp puts out?? please advise which is the most suitable. price is no matter as all are pretty cheap here..in fact plywood is probably the most expensive.
I would think that the harder the wood, the less the cabinet would resonate, and laminated wood is hard to router......so I guess the mahogany would be the best choice, however this is just a guess since I have no experience with any of the woods you listed.
Thanks Uncle Doug for the prompt response. Yes my amp will be natural look, so mahogany should look nice, Its used as guitar top on some acoustics, so it has good resonance properties (i'm guessing)...but its pretty thinly cut for that application. In an amp with a heavy magnet and vibrating speaker cone, wondering how thin my panels should be??? Being a hardwood, maybe I can get away with thinner walls still have resonance (and reduce the overall weight), and still retain structural integrity?? thanks for all your time and effort on making these vids..much appreciated and valued resource. cheers Steve
If you have good, solid finger joints and a small to medium-size cabinet, I would think that 1/2" mahogany would work fine......and look great to boot.
Thank you. Sounds like a plan. Yes it will smaller than champ size..more like a mini solid state amp..based around a 6" speaker..something I can put up on a desk at low volume. cheers for your help. One more annoying question :). I will be buying a router to do the finger joints, and making up a jig. What type of bit should I buy and what width. I guess I should be asking what size are the finger joints, if the amp was just 12 inches in height..and what would you recommend for the rounding ..1/4 inch bit if the thickness is 1/2 inch??
I believe you are speaking of the press-in nuts that are readily available at Home Depot and other such stores. They have prongs that prevent them from spinning when you tighten the speaker screws.
Uncle Doug, they are known as "T-nuts". It is best to router a recessed area for the flange(s) of the T-nut(s) to sit in, flush with the surface of the board (alternately, you can also use a flat spade bit to drill a flat-bottom recess for the T-nuts). I also rough up the T-nuts with a Dremel bit and epoxy them to the wood panel, or they may come loose ( push out, or spin free) when threading and tightening the speaker bolts. Modern, new growth white pine is SOFT.
I didn`t intend to make use of this woodworking book, “pepe amazing plan” (Google it) but instead curious about it. I had been really impressed right after trying it. I was seeking to find out more about the art of woodworking, and was not disappointed. I discovered several topics like wood types as well as designing your workshop.
U dont need do all that bs. Just make a box screw in sides. Who cares for dove cuts and shit. As long as u make holes for woofer,tweeter,mid and spray paint wood. Done 2 hrs tops
great video! I know it's been a while, but had a question. I see that you added an extra inch to the frame so the chassis didn't stick out. was there a reason that you didn't just just get a 1x10 and rip that to 1x8?
I don't recall exactly, Michael, but either I had already cut all the notches for the box joints, or I just didn't want to go back to the store to buy more lumber.
Seriously have to thank UA-cam for this. Because if it didn't exist we wouldn't have these wonderful videos! You go into great detail on your projects, and that is what truly counts, to me. So thanks again!
Billo1281 You're welcome, Billo. Glad the videos are helpful :)
Uncle Doug, a treasure to humanity!
You are too kind, MC....but thanks :)
Doug, this set of videos is absolutely amazing. I'm about to start building a speaker cabinet and this just answered about every question I had. Everything is explained in great detail and very thoroughly. Thank you for taking the time to share all your experience.
You're welcome, FC.....we're glad the videos were helpful :)
That video for the box-joint was awesome! Simple and to the point, much easier than using a router rig.
Thanks, Duane. Once you set up the jig and get some practice, the process becomes rather quick and easy.
Doug, I have some old pine that I salvaged and it looks about the same as the wood in the vintage Fender amps. I don't know amp tech work all that well but I can do woodwork. These finger joint jigs work great.
I have also used biscuit joints for amp cabinets and this method is also very strong.
Hi Uncle Doug,
Thanks for the first part of this cabinet build. Great process, intuitive teaching skill, and excellent results. Can't wait to see part two! Thanks for your kindness in sharing your knowledge!
Kind Regards,
Steve
You're welcome, Steve. Rusty and I really appreciate your kind words.....and hope you enjoy Part 2 :) ^. .^
holy cow i love this channel...
We're glad you found us, Ette :)
Very thankful for this video Doug. Concision info with desert dry humor.
Cheers from Australia!
You're welcome, Peter. I'm glad you enjoyed it :)
Good work as always!
Thanks, Michael.
there's always a hidden Gem video in your catalog of you tube videos Doug. for me, this is one of them.. I know a lot have said it before, but let me say it again. thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us and taking the time to upload it.
+chuck jones You're welcome, Chuck. We're glad the video was helpful and really appreciate your kind words.
Uncle Doug, your videos are the best! You have explained the ins and outs of tube amps in a simple yet comprehensive manner. Keep those wonderful and funny "TV" shows coming(I mean you and Rusty). In some future video could you explain what a preamp
bypass capacitor actually does. Thanks.
Thanks so much, HT. Nothing makes me happier than hearing that my videos have been helpful and appreciated. Re the "preamp bypass cap", I must admit that I am not familiar with that term. Perhaps you are referring to a cathode bypass capacitor, which boosts volume and enhances bass response when utilized in a preamp tube. Again, thanks !!!
Excellent Work! Thanks for posting this video. I can't wait to see part 2 and how the cabinet turns out.
Thanks and you're welcome. Part 2 is nearly done and should be posted soon. I think you'll really like how it all turned out.
Thank you for making this !
You're welcome, CB :)
Great video! Very detailed and useful. Thanks for taking the time to make this.
You're welcome, O82.....glad you liked it :)
Great work and great video. Many thanks. It seems to meet with Rusty's approval too.
+SiliconSet You're welcome, SS. Rusty's sniff test is an essential part of any project.
Excellent videos mate, very concise and well explained. Why anybody would give this a thumbs down is beyond me.I'm going to be attempting to make my own speaker cabinet soon, but i neither have the tools or the skill to make finger joints or upholstery like you expertly do, but i enjoyed the whole series.
+Jammy Git Thanks so much. Rusty and I are not sure about the thumbs down either, Jammy. I guess some folks just can't be pleased :) Sadly, YT allows them to post their disdain without having to explain why. It amounts to totally unconstructive criticism. Best of luck with your project :)
Uncle Doug Thanks Doug i'll need it as it'll be my 1st attempt :-o
Apart from your craftsmanship, i also liked the bits where you asked Rusty if he/she was gonna help you clean up etc....Rusty walked away in disgust haha.
Good luck with your project, JG. I hope it's more successful than my attempts to get Rusty's help :)
Uncle Doug Cheers mate but i've hit a snag already in the planning :-( I'm waiting for my local timber yard to get back to me with a quote for pine boards, so that's in hand, i've chosen the loudspeaker, a celestion g12 m greenback12 inch 25 watt 8 or 16 ohm (i'm not sure which is best for a 5 watt tube amp head but it can be used with 8 or 16 ohm) i'm ready to order that so that's in hand.
I'm looking for a 1/4 inch input jack but am struggling to find any on ebay or amazon, maybe i'm searching wrongly as i don't know exactly what they're called as i've never wired anything like a speaker cab. Also the wires from the jack input to the speaker itself, i don't own a soldering iron so soldering isn't an option but i've seen people connect the speaker with these push on connectors but i don't know what they're called and i'm searching aimlessly.
So i'm wondering if you could maybe give me some advice like, 1, are there advantages with 8 ohm or 16 ohm speakers? If so which would you prefer in a 1x12? 2, what's the exact name of the jack input into the cab? And 3, what kind of speaker wires with the push on connectors are the correct ones to get? and maybe give me some links to some sites where i can find what i need for questions 2&3 please. Sorry for so many questions Doug but you seem to know all there is to know about amps & speakers. I could just get an empty 1x12 cabinet but i'd really like to try making my own.
The speaker impedance really doesn't matter as long as it matches the output transformer. The 8 ohm is more common and the impedance I generally use. You need to shop for parts at Antique Electronic Supply in Tempe, AZ. It's always more difficult to make something yourself.....but always much more rewarding.
You just need to make sure Rusty doesn't give his "stamp" of approval. ;-)
Rusty likes to chew on pieces of scrap wood that I throw at the trash pail....and miss. It makes for some unusual "surprises" when cleaning up the back yard. Some day an archeologist will probably declare that these bizarre wood fiber "sculptures" have a religious connotation :)
Fantastic video, thanks!
Our pleasure, Mitch.
Hey, wait just a minute there Doug. You said "Home Depot" and "nice straight board" in the same sentence. :-)
I know the sentence is an oxymoron, Dave, but, in this case.....much to my amazement and the jealousy of many onlookers......I found the holy grail at Home Depot: A fairly straight board. Naturally, they charged me double for it and I was banned for life.....but it worked well for the cabinet.
thank you for putting this Dave hahaha
OMG! TOO FUNNY!!!!!!
I could not have said better myself 😄
Excellent
Thanks, LH :)
Love your videos ! regarding the hole for the speaker baffle, I use a laminate trimmer (small router) to cut perfectly symetrical holes. I made a quick jig out of plywood onto which the trimmer is attached, screw the jig to the center of the baffle board -much like your compass - and rotate that baby - start with a shallow cut then increase blade depth until your through - perfect hole every time. You could even use it as a template to make one of those cones for Rusty's neck, if he ever has an operation ....
I like your suggestion regarding an alternate way to cut speaker holes, Peter. Hand-held saber saws are no fun at all to wrestle around in a circular pattern. I always end up having to do a lot of touch up afterwards. I'll give your suggestion a try on my next baffle. Re Rusty, let's hope he never needs a cone or an operation. I don't think he would be a very good patient :)
You are a self tortuous soul Mr Uncle Doug
I am indeed, Eddie :)
Somewhere on youtube a guy posted a video of premade finger joint cabinets for $20 at the store. The cabs were made for bee hives at honey farms. You just needed to buy wood for the back and assemble them. Finger joints already cut. No brainer.
Wow......that would save all sorts of time and effort.
“Sniffing of the Plank!” Isn’t that a lost B-side from a Spinal Tap EP? Man,a table saw would make things a LOT easier(or not depending on how many fingers I lose.That WOULD happen to me. Build a pine cab for better sound and wind up with less digits to play guitar with;-) I already have nightmares about my router! Nah, I’ve built a couple. It’s great therapy!
A table saw can be your greatest tool acquisition.....or the end of your guitar career, William. Either way, it's better than drowning in someone else's vomit ;)
just to clarify, my fingers are all the same just like yours except where you used a narrow finger I used a larger by 1\4" finger. your videos are supreme! i am trying to build this project legitimate but tools of course are an issue somewhat. I bought router bits that I will mount to a drill and monkey rig to a table to save on the cost of a router table. and for the finger joints I may have to file them all into spec! more motivation than time or money is my situation
Thanks, John. I doubt that a drill can spin the router bit fast enough to make smooth cuts. Routers operate at a very high RPM.....much higher than drills. Filing the finger joints would be quite a task, but I guess if you have the time and patience, anything is possible. Good luck :)
Top quality work! The finger joint jig looks much more efficient than doing them by hand (the way I did mine). I used a plunge router with a home made circle cutting jig to cut my speaker hole, I will be glad to share my technique if your interested.
Thanks, Andrew. I tend to prefer the saber saw to a router for holes, but I would be interested to hear of your technique.
I've used a router with a circle cutter and made some nice holes, but I think that your method using the router table is much better. To do a proper job with a router and a circle cutter, you need a scrap piece the size of the baffle underneath to support the baffle. If you don't support it, it's kind of like cutting a tree limb off while you are standing on it.
awesome. just awesome.
Thanks so much, Padraic. I'm really glad you liked the video. I hope that Part 2 is even better. Stay tuned !!! :)))
Doug, one suggestion to use a method that I think might work for the T-nuts. I use a Forstner bit to recess the T-nut head just a tad. It doesn't have to be done but I do it anyway. Also, I put a dot of black paint on the end of the bolt so it won't show through the grill cloth.
Greetings, BB. I too recess the T-nuts if the grill cloth is attached directly to the speaker baffle....so there is no bulge in the grill cloth....but with a grill cloth that is spaced away from the baffle, I didn't think it was necessary. If you watch the Part 2 video, the T-nuts, bolt ends, and baffle are all painted flat black (as you mention).
Nice lesson here, thanx very much, Doug!!
As I´m not doing my own cabinets, because i´m always short on time, I find this very interesting on how to make one of these Cabs.
Please show us how to tolex, as I got myself some heads which I like to have in new tolex, and I never done this right by now, since i don´t know how to do this. My first attempt tuns out to be very awlful and I quit doing this ;)
I may suggest you to write something in the inner cabinet, may someone in 30 years will be curious who had done this work ;)
You're welcome, Tubical. I will indeed be posting video(s) showing how to cover this cabinet with Tolex, leatherette, etc. in the near future. It's a little tricky at first, but like lots of challenges, not so hard once you get the knack.
Also, I generally do attach a card within my homemade amp cabinets to tell archeologists in the future who was responsible for creating the odd little device they have uncovered....:)))
sir you have the voice of stewmc donald
6yrs late to this one. Nice Doug :)
Have you ever tried using a ceiling diffuser for a speaker grill? It takes a taller and wider baffle to accommodate but it works quite well and looks cool. I wonder if I am the first to do this?
I have not, Tim, but appreciate the tip.
glad puppy was cool with the sugar pine. won't go so easy with non deciduous lumber in the future. trust me on this one.
+three torches Passing Rusty's sniff test is a must for all materials, TT. Deciduous or coniferous, I trust his snout explicitly ;)
Watched the linked video and that saw blade just blew my mind! *Throws chisel out of window
The chisel is a time-honored tool for box joints, Ant, but unless you have the skills of Michaelangelo, it can't touch a Dado blade for precision. I kept my chisel, but only use it sparingly......generally for home carpentry use.
Sir, great build, truly a Master I would love to apprentice for. A suggestion for improvement, with your approval; you use T-nuts for securing the speaker to the baffle, a very pragmatic and necessary modification, would it also make sense to use T-nuts when securing the baffle to the cleats? Your opinion on this will be carried forward and given high regards.
Thanks so much, Brian. I would agree with their use to mount the speaker baffle to the cleats.....especially if they were installed in the front of the baffle itself, like those for the speaker, hidden by the grill cloth and allowing for invisible but very secure fastening of the baffle to the cleats. Good idea !!
I'm planning on making the cab bigger. Would I have to use pine that is less thick? If so what would be an arbitrary thickness. Thank you for the insightful videos.
Greetings, OTM. I recommend 3/4" pine for all medium to large cabinets. It is structurally superior to thinner wood....which would be of particular benefit in larger, heavier cabinets.
I found a couple good planks and chose cuts without nots in the wood. I'm also planning to cut my finger joints to include a larger finger instead of a slim finger to add strength. if you remade your project is there anything you would change?
Knot-less pine is probably better, and I do select my boards in this regard. Larger fingers are actually weaker than smaller ones.....just like fine-thread screws are stronger than coarse thread. The more surface contact in the joint, the better. Actually I probably wouldn't change anything in this cabinet. It turned out just fine.....at least IMHO :)
Are the spacers that the grill cloth sits on needed if your wood baffle has a decent thickness to it? because then the speaker is technically far enough away from the grill cloth that it won't touch it?
The spacers are not to prevent the speaker from hitting the grill cloth. By lifting the grill cloth away from the baffle, it allows the speaker to move air through the entire grill cloth, not just the circle of grill cloth over the speaker. This is how Fender does it.
Great videos by the way. I have a danelectro honey tone mini guitar amp that I am interested in retrofitting in a wooden cabinet of almost the same dimension 5x2x4 not exact
Thanks, OTM. It sounds like an interesting project. Please let us know how it turns out :)
Greetings Doug. I'm building a similar pine box cabinet a bee (brood) box for $20. Anyway I noticed in this video you mentioned that the power leads to the speaker be positioned perfectly straight down. Is this because your amp is beneath it or is there another reason? I ask because my amp will be on top of cabinet. Thanks Doug. As always your lessons are the best!..Sky
That video was made long ago, Sky. I guess I meant that, as you surmised, the leads should go in the direction of the chassis. Good luck with your project.
@@UncleDoug Thanks for your quick response Doug. I don't know how you do it...answering all your UA-cam fan mail. But you do w detailed, courteous responses. Who knows. Maybe 1 day our paths will cross. I would like to buy you a beer.
@@MrSkywunder You're welcome, Sky......and I would gladly drink that beer ;)
Great video! I'm about to build a head cab and matching speaker cab for a tweed Champ clone I currently have in a 1X10 combo cab. I'll size the speaker cab appropriately so I can can make 2 baffles: 1 for a 10" speaker, and 1 for a 12" speaker. I didn't read all of the comments, so I apologize if it was asked and answered, but why not use a 1X10 piece of pine, instead of adding the extra inch of wood on the front? Not being critical, but just wondering if there's a functioning reason for it, other than you wanted a little more clearance. I'd think a 1X10 plank would achieve that as well, and keep the box to 4 pieces of wood. Just curious. Thanks again, for the great video!
Oh snap! I wanted to add, I didn't realize that you're the guy that makes the great "How Tube Amplifiers Work" videos, which are excellent! Thanks for explaining things in a way people often confused by this stuff can understand!
This was a long time ago, Dave, but I think there were no good, straight 10" wide boards to be had at Home Depot that day.
You're welcome. Glad you enjoy the videos.
@@UncleDoug That makes sense. I have a great 10' 1x12 board, with good grain, that's straight as can be, but I got it from a lumber yard. I'd rather save that for something else, instead of ripping it to 10", and get a 1X10 board, but we'll see.
Do you have any thoughts about edge glued pine boards? Our local Menard's has edge glued pine 1 X 12s. They are 25 to 40% more expensive than no. 2 pine and still have knots, but they should be straighter and flatter than regular pine 1 X 12s.
I'm not familiar with the term, Bill. Do they soak the open grain at the end of the boards in glue to seal them? I don't see how this would make a difference in the straightness of the board......unless they only edge glue better grade lumber.
Edge glued boards are made by gluing narrower boards together to make a wide board, much like a table top. This allows the grain to be reversed on adjacent narrow boards which may reduce warping. I probably wouldn't bother with a 1 X 8 or narrower, but the 1 X 12s that I have seen are pretty straight and flat. You can get the edge glued boards as wide as 18 or 24 inches. I've been seeing edge glued Aspen boards for some time, but only recently seen them in Pine. The knots are small and there should be less waste. I haven't noticed, but there are probably finger joints in the narrow boards. These should be staggered and shouldn't affect the strength of the board.
Now I understand, and it makes great sense. Such composite boards would not only be flatter, but also more interesting if stained and finished. I only use 1" x 8" (maximum) for my cabinets, so this may not apply to my needs, but I can definitely see why others, who need wider boards, would prefer this method to warped, wavy "natural" wood.
I have to ask. The 1/8 spacers between the baffle and the grill cloth. Is that necessary or more for asthetics?
It's the way Fender does their speaker baffles, TT, and I have heard all sorts of explanations why.....including that without the spacing the grill cloth will make a flapping noise against the baffle. How you could hear the faint flapping of grill cloth while the speaker is blasting "Foxy Lady" at 135dB I have no idea.
I have my own theory: Grill cloth (some more than others) cuts down on the flow of air as the speaker cone moves back and forth, and suppresses its motion. If you glue the grill cloth to the baffle, then all the speaker's air has to pass through an area of grill cloth equal to the diameter of the speaker hole. If the grill cloth is floating above the baffle, then the speaker's air can pass through the entire rectangular area of the grill cloth, greatly reducing suppression.
Uncle Doug Your theory makes sense. I was browsing different designs and cabinets and it seems like it's 50/50 to use spacers or not, and I assume that not using the spacers is more of a function of having to do less work. I have a cabinet with no spacing and have not heard any flapping ... but since I am building a new one I may as well take the few extra minutes and space it. Thanks for the reply.
You're welcome, TT. Since Fender was famous for cutting economic corners, the fact that they persisted in spacing out their grill cloth tells me that there really is a benefit to doing so. Best of luck with your project :)
Where are the mouse droppings?
It's a brand new cabinet, Nick. Give it time :)
Mouse was martyred 😂
I must say that “pepe amazing plan” (Google it) is a great wood working book. It gives lots of general info that will help any beginner and also some seasoned wood worker. Surprisingly, this book has been my partner when I wish to look up woods at areas and other topics such as restoring as well as salvaging spots.
Thanks for the input, Dakota.
1/8 " for two layers makes for 2 times that for clearance right? Baffle will need clearance for 4 layers not 2.
I was describing the clearance for each side of the baffle, Pief, which would be for one layer of grill cloth and one layer of covering material. Naturally, since there are two horizontal sides and two vertical sides, the overall dimensions of the baffle must provide for twice this amount.
is it possible to alter a existing cabinet from 1 big cone to 4 12" cones
It's impossible for me to say, without all the measurements and/or a diagram of the cabinet, but I guess you could cut out the single-hole speaker baffle and install a 4 x 12" hole baffle.
Thank you for the info the video was realy help full
when i get in ill take a photo of cabinet and tak measurements n send then to you
Kristopher, I think you should look at your speaker baffle and determine if there is sufficient surface area for four 12" speakers. Perhaps you could cut four 12" circles out of cardboard and see if they fit. If they do, then replace your single-hole baffle with one that has proper cutouts for your four speakers.
will do thank you doug
What song is that?? the beginning has that Geddy Lee "Nocturne" sound
I wasn't aware that the cabinet video had any musical interludes, TP. At what time in the video is the tune in question ??
just clamp all four boards together with two of them offset one space and run all four of them through the saw together and you're done
Thanks for the tip, Cory.
me to Doug
More space is more acoustic
I think cabinet volume is more critical with sealed cabinets, rather than open-backed cabinets, Lasha, but thanks for your input.
sounds like Ron Swanson, is this him?
yearn lp Other viewers have said the same thing, but no, I am just an old, retired guy who makes videos with the help of his loyal dog, Rusty.
Actually, that would be a "reject" stamp. :-0
I feel like a bit of a butcher seeing this as I used a biscuit jointer to make my guitar cab
If your method of jointing produced a solid, attractive cabinet, then there is no need for remorse, PS.
It worked surprisingly well. I braced the corners too just in case. Building a cab is one of the most rewarding projects I've ever done
For very heavy amp cabinets, I use metal L-angle internal braces also, at the inside top-side intersections. It would be a shame if the whole cabinet and chassis were to break away and fall down a flight of stairs :)
The first 5 seconds I thought I clicked on a Nick Offerman video
That was Nick......he could only stay for a short visit.
See where is the conflict? I dont see any problem here do you?
Nope.
Doug prob listens to jazz music with no bass
Not at all, Nigel. Watch more videos........and learn :)
why did you add a lip... why didn't you just make the cabinet deeper to begin with?
+Charles J Gartner It was easier (and less wasteful) to add the lip than to use a much wider board and cut down all four sides to the desired width.
If you do finger joints by hand you mark out the same as you have.Then you clamp and line up the finger and make very precise slow cut's with a fine cut tenon saw.It's all about take time and being very precise with centering those elongated cut's....
+Jason Hendrix I agree, Jason. Thanks for your input :)
You sir, are extremely cool. Almost everything I search UA-cam for pops up a video you made, in which you describe the subject calmly, and with little bits of tangential wisdom. Thanks a lot, man 👍😎
You're welcome, E., and thanks for your nice comments.
What an excellent video, Doug. Thank you.
You are kind to say so, Charles. You're welcome.
Good work, Rusty on the plank sniffing! Looks real good, Uncle Doug!
+EvLoutonian Thanks, Ev. No plank can even be considered for use without first passing the sniff test :)
Thank you, this is essentially the form instruction my mind is able to digest quickly.
We're glad to hear that, Stephane.
so where can you get straight boards? Is home depots birch 3/4" plywood ever straight? Also, on that video with the finger joint jig they did not show anything about making the "key" to align the jig... having that be perfect would be very important to the tightness of your joints wouldnt it?
The select pine boards at either Lowe's or Home Depot are generally straight enough for small cabinet building, CM. Yes, the key is simply a small piece of wood exactly the same height and width as the notches being cut in the ends of the planks.
You can buy pre-cut honey supers for about $15 that might work: www.poorvalleybeefarm.com/collections/woodenware-and-hive-components?page=2
Funny my Dad had thoes exact clamps. I use them still today!
I miss rusty
As do we all, Jimmy. Thanks :)
We going to break dance now? 😂
Your videos are great to watch. I learn alot so thank you!
Glad you like them, Dale :)
Dovetails would have made a big difference. Slso a pc fan to get the hot sir out pat tubes is best idea. Doesnt need to interfere with amp. Could run off 5v.
Thanks for the suggestions, Matthew.
I miss rusty
Whom else misses him?
We certainly do, Jimmy. Thanks for your kind words.
your welcome@@UncleDoug
That is beautiful, Uncle Doug. I don't think there is anything like this detail on YT - you may even turn me into a precision cabinet builder (in my dreams). Thank you.
Thanks so much, David. I would trade half of my woodworking skills for half of your knowledge of electronics any day. Your input and guidance have been immensely beneficial during the past year. Thank you.
Wow, you are an expert craftsman, DIY of congratulatory precession of a lost art for the most part. Thankful to be able to get such valuable information over the entire series.
You need to have you on reality show on PBS!
Ken Henry Thanks so much, Ken. Rusty and I would love to have our own reality show.......as long as it doesn't interfere with our meals and naps :)
LoL! Rusty sniffing the pine plank..and he approves. 3/4 inch common pine.
You can get a dovetail jig that you can use a router on, but I made my cabinets the old school way with making a box joint template (outside and inside) and a coping saw.
Glad you mentioned to a square to make sure all 4 corners are square after applying glue though. Titebond glues dries very quickly, so it's always a race when applying glue to the finger joints on all 4 pieces.
+SuperCarver2011 Amen, SC. I'm always a nervous wreck as I race to get the joints all closed up and squared before the glue sets up.
+Uncle Doug; I built one cabinet with those box joints and being "el cheapo" to get a dovetail/box joint commercial jig for my router, I decided to make a template of the interlocking joints and cut out the wood with a coping saw.
Personally I am very scared of wobbly dado blades on the table saw. They are somewhat dangerous to your fingers
if you happen to lose concentration for even a fraction of a second. I would use a box finger joint that
you can use a small handheld router or works as well on a table saw, similar to what this site is selling.
www.elitetools.ca/en/product/gabarit-incra-i-box-pour-joint-de-boite/
In my case doing it the hard way by a hand held coping saw, It took 4 times (four sides) as long to make the joints to fit reasonably well before glueup. Unlike a routered box joint, cutting manually with a coping saw, you have the blade kerf error which leads to sloppy joints and trying to get those finger joints flat to mate properly (rasping the wood against the longitudinal grain was a real PiTA.
Then I had to use makeshift 90 degree squares to make sure each corner was 90 degrees. In retrospect, I should have bought the router jig., for about$200 or less and had perfect fitting tight joints.
This is one operation where you don't save anything not buying one.
There is a phrase that perfectly describes such short cuts: They are a "false economy" :) I think we've all experienced similar frustration.
+Uncle Doug I've run into this problem with any of the fast setting glues. TiteBond does make a product called
TiteBond II Extend, which has a longer open time for complex joinery, such as dovetail joints or box joints.
The other thing that you can try to extend the glue set time is to pre-wet the finger joints where you are going to
apply the glue, with a small brush and a bit of water. The pre-wet joints will extend the glue setup time by soaking into the pine itself and allow by a few minutes giving you more time to apply the glue, assemble and clamp the joint(s). Once the presoaked joints air dry, the glue starts to setup. Might buy you another 20 minutes or so
of gluesetup time.
That's an excellent suggestion, SC. I'll try it on my next woodworking project. Thanks :)
Imney slapping- That was so dog gone funny! You said
“” I tend to build my cabinets around my 🔊
Haha
Glad you enjoyed it, 76 ;)
Your woodworking skills appear to be on par with your electronic knowledge. Once again, you've supplied me with the missing pieces I need to do more stuff. Now I'm confident to attempt a clone of my '56 Tweed Princeton, as well as the cabinet for a mod of an old Hammond AO-35 reverb driver amp that I think is gonna make a nice Vox AC-15 type of circuit with the EL-84 out put stage. Thanks again, Doug. Also, give Rusty a pat on the head and a biscuit. He''s your buddy.
You're quite welcome, JP. It sounds like you have a pair of excellent projects. Best of luck. Be sure to let us see how they turn out. Rusty sends his regards and appreciation for the pats and dog biscuit :) ^. .^
Uncle Doug, yes I call him Uncle Doug, after watching his videos anyone can plainly see when he does something it's done right and it's professional ,he's a perfectionist, and him and I are going to be very good friends because I'm in the middle of a very big project that I'm take pride in thank you My Uncle Doug.
You're quite welcome, Mark. I'm glad my favorite nephew inherited the perfectionist gene :)
Uncle Doug you sir, are extremely talented! I really enjoy the videos very much. They are inspiring.
+Pete Dazer Thanks so much, Pete. I'm glad the videos are helpful and appreciated :)
Doug I may have missed it if you mentioned it, but what kind of screws are you using to secure the baffles to the box?
I use basic 1 1/2" #8 or #10 wood screws, with the heads painted black so they don't show through the grill cloth.
Great video is there a rule to how much room should be around the speaker ? To establish the cabinet size? Thx, Sorin
Greetings, Sorin. I generally allow about 0.5 to 1 inch on either side of the speaker rim. The top and bottom clearance varies depending on where the chassis is located. You have to be very careful to provide sufficient clearance between the speaker and the tubes and transformers. It's no fun to find out that your chassis won't fit in the cabinet due to speaker interference. Good luck :)
Your video's are very informative and professional, thanks Doug! :)
You're welcome, Mr. C. No relation to the "King of Hell" on "Supernatural" I suppose :)
Sniffing of the plank!
Nice Uncle Doug.
I have a couple plank sniffers here, so I understand how that procedure work :)
EL34XYZ Yes, indeed, EL.....all planks must be thoroughly sniffed before construction can begin. It's good to know that Rusty's not the only dedicated plank sniffer out there :)
Uncle Doug
Someone said you are a member of my forum. Is that true? Hoffmanamps Forum?
If it's also called EL34 World, then yes, I not only use the forum often as a reference but recommend it frequently to viewers. I think it's one of the best amp forums in existence.
Uncle Doug Awesome and thanks for the comments
You're welcome, EL. Thanks for maintaining your excellent site.
Hey Doug,
Thanks for your videos! You’ve really inspired me to branch out of my comfort level when it comes to custom woodworking. I’m currently attempting to build a replacement cabinet for my 52 Fender Deluxe Wide panel. I’m hoping to go without the tweed and give it a nice stained finish if I can avoid any mistakes. Is there any main difference with plywood vs solid? I have some nice ¾” red oak plywood leftover from a previous project and I’m thinking about using it. Keep the videos coming!!
boganjd I would say that although plywood is stronger than solid wood, it's harder to work with.....when cutting the inlets for box joints, it tends to splinter, and uncovered box joints will expose the laminated ends, which are not particularly attractive (IMHO). My feeling is that plywood would be fine if you intended to cover the cabinet, but might not be suitable for a bare, finished cabinet. Again, simply my personal preference and others may disagree.....but I always try to give an honest opinion, based on experience, when asked.
Doug, thanks for the advice and the quick reply! All great points. Keep the videos coming!
We will, Bo. Best of luck with your project :)
I can see you're gifted with woodworking! That's where I admittedly fall short. My area of expertise is the electronics end of things...My cabinet designs would have master cabinetmakers laughing so hard, the threshold of pain would be reached :) That said, I have to stay with what I know best, which is the electronics...You do excellent and very neat work...If Rusty approves, it has to be good! :) As always, I enjoy your videos...
Thanks so much, Frank. When I was working exclusively on Jukeboxes, many years ago, I had to develop a lot of cabinet-making and woodworking skills. They have served me well in this new hobby.
There's a local guy in my neighborhood that does cabinet making, I just give him pictures and dimensions and he knocks the project out in a matter of 2 hours; he has a lot of specialized wood-working tools and lathes.
I always wanted Ron Swanson to teach me woodworking. Now i feel satisfied
It cost me a fortune to hire Ron to provide the narration, Dub.....but it was worth it :)
I call it a speaker box, cause I was born in the 70's! I was entertained
That's good to hear, Clif.
I've gotta say, after 4 semesters at ITT Tech, those who cower in the face of arithmetic, should probably run now. Run fast and far, because it only gets deeper, and if ohms law causes anything but elation, maybe you should leave this part to the rest of us. We will gladly carry the torch into tomorrow, with a cheerful smile as we accept payment for biasing your amps.
Well said, Brian, but at least if the math is presented in a palatable way, it is easier to "swallow" :)
It's not TRIG, or, perish the thought, Calculus 😭, Rolling on the floor clinching my sides from laughing harder than I have in years. I nearly pissed myself. Good show Sir.
Rusty is awesome lol
Thanks, Wesley......I'm sure he agrees with you :))) ^. .^
Do you have any suggestions for building a cabinet without finger joints .. for us commoners who are limited to a circular power saw and drills .
Sure, Wiley. I have seen some commercial amp cabinets that don't have box joints. As long as you intend to cover the cabinet with a material, who would know? Just screw or nail the heck out of the joints, use plenty of good glue, and be sure to have panels in the upper and lower rear to keep the cabinet square.
Uncle Doug I guess my concern is having the nice rounded corners and edges you get with wood working equipment.
"And now We must have the Official Sniffing of the Plank." That was So Kool, Your Dog giving the Quality Control Approval! It caught me off guard, it made me laugh so hard, that really was so Funny to see your Dog! I love Dogs! Anyway... sorry, I just had to say it! Good Day Mate!
Texas Muddog Thanks so much TM.....glad you enjoyed it. I always rely on Rusty's keen sense of smell to alert me to incompetence and poor quality materials :)
Thank you - Uncle Doug for the reply! I putted up your Posting, because I wish to build my own Speaker Cabinet. A friend of mine gave me (1) - Carvin PS-10 / 200 Watt / 8 ohm Speaker. I don't want to buy a cabinet (used or new). I just want to try my hand at building one myself! I'll get back to you if I have any questions or concerns about my build. Thanks Again! Good Day Mate!
Good luck with your cabinet project, TM.
Thanks Again!
What should I do if I don't have a good boy to sniff the wood?
You're up the creek, Zac. Without a trustworthy hound to screen your materials, you're at the mercy of Home Depot :O
Uncle Doug, for building a simple head cabinet (no speaker), and using minimal tools (I'll have to have the wood cut by Home Depot), what kind of corner joints are best? Butt joint, or rabbet, etc.? Have you seen any good videos on how to make them?
Finger joints are best, but since you have no power tools, it would seem that you are limited to butt joints, which are the weakest of all possibilities. If you can gain access to a table saw and dado blade set, then this is an excellent video on how to cut box or finger joints: ua-cam.com/video/AiPzFNsuN2k/v-deo.html
Okay, and thanks for the video link! I also might look into a bisquit-type joint. That tool seems like a nice initial investment. I have no garage, etc., so table saws and the like are out of the question. Cheers and thanks!
Good luck with your project, Roger.
Great Job !! Enjoyed the video !!
I'm glad you liked it, Kal. Stay tuned for Part 2.....:))
You have some of the best videos on the web!
+Tim McDonough Thanks so much, Tim.....glad you enjoy them :)
Hi Uncle Doug, a couple questions if you have time to answer. I don't have access to pine, and I'm not a woodwork buff - I'm an electronics hobbiest?? Currently living in Indonesia and pine is uncommon around where I live. 4 choices I have are plywood, mahogany, merbau and teak. Does the timber used affect the sound the amp puts out?? please advise which is the most suitable. price is no matter as all are pretty cheap here..in fact plywood is probably the most expensive.
I would think that the harder the wood, the less the cabinet would resonate, and laminated wood is hard to router......so I guess the mahogany would be the best choice, however this is just a guess since I have no experience with any of the woods you listed.
Thanks Uncle Doug for the prompt response. Yes my amp will be natural look, so mahogany should look nice, Its used as guitar top on some acoustics, so it has good resonance properties (i'm guessing)...but its pretty thinly cut for that application. In an amp with a heavy magnet and vibrating speaker cone, wondering how thin my panels should be??? Being a hardwood, maybe I can get away with thinner walls still have resonance (and reduce the overall weight), and still retain structural integrity?? thanks for all your time and effort on making these vids..much appreciated and valued resource. cheers Steve
If you have good, solid finger joints and a small to medium-size cabinet, I would think that 1/2" mahogany would work fine......and look great to boot.
Thank you. Sounds like a plan. Yes it will smaller than champ size..more like a mini solid state amp..based around a 6" speaker..something I can put up on a desk at low volume. cheers for your help. One more annoying question :). I will be buying a router to do the finger joints, and making up a jig. What type of bit should I buy and what width. I guess I should be asking what size are the finger joints, if the amp was just 12 inches in height..and what would you recommend for the rounding ..1/4 inch bit if the thickness is 1/2 inch??
Hey dude. What a great video! One question, what are those things that you use with the screws to secure the speaker to the baffle?
I believe you are speaking of the press-in nuts that are readily available at Home Depot and other such stores. They have prongs that prevent them from spinning when you tighten the speaker screws.
Uncle Doug, they are known as "T-nuts". It is best to router a recessed area for the flange(s) of the T-nut(s) to sit in, flush with the surface of the board (alternately, you can also use a flat spade bit to drill a flat-bottom recess for the T-nuts). I also rough up the T-nuts with a Dremel bit and epoxy them to the wood panel, or they may come loose ( push out, or spin free) when threading and tightening the speaker bolts. Modern, new growth white pine is SOFT.
Mathew Barwick, they are also known as T-nuts. See the longer comment directed to Uncle Doug....
Oak Go/No Go Gauge. Genius.
Thanks, JL. It really works....and oak is a good choice for this task since it is hard and tends to last a long time.
Bravo!
Thanks, James.
I didn`t intend to make use of this woodworking book, “pepe amazing plan” (Google it) but instead curious about it. I had been really impressed right after trying it. I was seeking to find out more about the art of woodworking, and was not disappointed. I discovered several topics like wood types as well as designing your workshop.
U dont need do all that bs. Just make a box screw in sides. Who cares for dove cuts and shit. As long as u make holes for woofer,tweeter,mid and spray paint wood. Done 2 hrs tops
Thanks for your masterful description of the woodworking process, Nigel. We are all fortunate to benefit from your expertise.
great video! I know it's been a while, but had a question. I see that you added an extra inch to the frame so the chassis didn't stick out. was there a reason that you didn't just just get a 1x10 and rip that to 1x8?
I don't recall exactly, Michael, but either I had already cut all the notches for the box joints, or I just didn't want to go back to the store to buy more lumber.
How do you attach the baffle to the cabinet after it has the grill cloth installed?
In this case, either four screws through the grill cloth......or four studs installed in the baffle before the grill cloth was applied.