For me this is the holy grail... 1.5v until cut out is great in so many ways. I use them in my remote controls, outside sensors and small flashlights. I remember when I was a kid, I hated how my toys moved slower and slower over a long period of time. 2 hours of full speed is more fun than 4-5 hours of medium speed :)
haha for sure! My wife had some battery powered lights for Christmas that weren't cutting it for her. I added these batteries instead of the EBL Ni-Mh and BOOM way brighter!
Beyond preference, some devices wont' work correctly on dipping voltage. My heated gloves won't even turn on with a fully charged NiMH set at 1.35v/cell.
Of the NiMH batteries I found that the EBLs had a significant failure rate after a year or so being used in our church school. The 2800 is really nearer to 2200-2400. We use a lot of them in various uses in the school so we get a pretty good use and failure profile. We also use a lot of Amazon AAs and none of them have failed through continuous use and cycling so far. We have about 50/50 of the two brands. The fact that we use a lot of them in auto waste bins, label makers, clocks, remotes etc gives us a pretty good feel for their durability. We have about 50 of them in use or standing by ready to use. For my personal use I stick to cells from the original factory in Japan. That would be Eneloop and LADDA from IKEA. IKEA is significantly less expensive than Eneloop for pretty much the identical cell. I use Eneloop exclusively in our church wireless mics and LADDA at home, both AAA and AA. Thought I would share actual use experience with a large batch. However, the EBLs are attractively priced and can be replaced easily. I have bought three different rechargeable li-ion brands for trial. Two AAs have gone dead but more work needed.
Same thing here, I used EBL’s not just for home but also for our church and just about everywhere else. I think the ability to replace them cheaply makes them very attractive. But I’m switching off of them personally and moving toward energizer for NiMH and Lithium aa’s for high need equipment.
A surprisingly well put together and informative review from a smaller channel. By how good you are at talking to the camera I thought you had way for subs. Nice job!
Thank you for spotting the mWh instead of mAh rating I missed it to .. I did still buy them as I want them for a camera which goes through 4AA batteries in as little as 30min
@Jannie Kirsten - The lithium rechargeables in the video are not the holy grail. Why(?) because they can't run as long as top-rated AA NiMh + NiMh is much less expensive. When lithium rechargeables can produce 2500-3000 mAh, then (yes) they will be the "new" holy grail :)
I've had the same problem with EBLs and others where they refuse to take a charge if they get discharged too low. One thing I've had success with is charging them with my old school maha mh-204 which charges in pairs. I think it takes the average voltage of the 2 and charges them both up. Often I just put it in for 10 mins or so, then can move to my newer charger. Thanks for the review.
Great video! I just bought some sets of similar batterees from Jugee (3,3v rechargable lithium cells inside, some control electronics to output 1,5 volt, etc.) at 3000 mWh. Some reviews of those estimate mAh value at about 1800. Only difference between these EBL's and Jugee is, that the Jugee's do not have a micro-usb port. So they come with a 'cradle' with just 5v passthrough from USB power source. My application: We have a "Sure Petcare" connected cat flap, which EATS C cells. About 4 Alkaline C cells in 2-2,5 months. And the cat flap totally dislikes 1,2v NiMH rechargables. So in this case, despite much lower capacity, this type of rechargable Lithium batteries is a really great alternative to just keep on buying disposable batteries. So in short: * Have appliances which deal with the 1,2V from regular NiMH rechargables? Absolutely go for those * Have appliances that eat batteries, need maximum voltage or otherwise really go badly on 1,2V NiMH's? Get these EBL's (or Jugee)
I haven't tried ones with a cradle but I wonder if the cradle approach allows the manufacturer to pack a little bit larger battery cell into the AA shape than the ones that come with the micro-USB port. That's my hunch at least!
I have that happen to some of my batteries. The problem stems from the computer type charger. The trick I learned is using an old Radio Shack charger. I always said they would cook the batteries. In this case it is a good thing. A few minutes in that type of charger and then return them to the newer charger and they charge again.
TRAIL CAMERA!! If you are having trail camera issues, THIS is likely the problem. Yup! I tossed some lithiums in my trail cam thinking I would be better off. NOOOOPE. It started with only 2 (of 3) bars, and just will randomly shut off whenever. Unpredictable behavior. Great video. Saved my butt. Thanks.
I use these exact batteries to power my telescope mount and for that purpose they provide phenomenal performance. With these powering my mount I can track Jupiter flawlessly at 850x in -17c temps, no other power source even those designed for telescopes could provide that level of precision. These provide a constant 1.5v of power to the motors which is what they need to be precise right down to 10% capacity and can run my mount for up to 24 hours. My set is about 3.5 years old now and still providing the same performance and about 22 hours of runtime.
Subscribing from now on. Will be buying these cells for my light. mWh is actually the apacity of the cell in watts. If you divide it by 1.5V you'll get the capacity in ampere. 3300mWh/1500mV=2200mAh. It's close to the actual reading of the ebl 2800 nimh at around 2400mAh. The reason why nimh lasted longer maybe because of its drop in power. It doesn't stay on 1.5V. I bet if its forced to maintain a 1.5V it will significantly lower the runtime. I tried running an ebl 2800 before on a high drain device and only ran for 50mins and even lower runtime for alkaline. Someone from a forum said it draws more current to compensate for the low 1.2V to close the gap and maintain a certain wattage. Actual measurements did somehow matched the claim. It only read 1.4A for 3.7V li ion but read a staggering 3.2A for 1.2V nimh.
You can save those batteries that don't seem to charge by taking two wires and connecting a good rechargable battery to the bad one for 5 seconds. Then putting it back in the charger and it will begin to charge again! Saves even more money without having to toss
Pro Tip: When you get that problem of batteries emptying out to a level they can't be recharged that happens because they are so drained out that the charger can't properly test them. To fix that all you have to do it connect them to a fully charged battery so that the plus is connected to the plus and the minus to the minus for about 5 seconds. The way I do it is put them on a desk, so that the positive end of one touches the positive end of the other and use a bent paper clip to connect the negative ends. After holding this for 5 seconds the dead battery will be recharged enough for the charger to properly detect it. It usually works after one try but if it's not enough a second round will do they trick 99% of the time.
Yes 100% is a great way to go. I also have a "dumb" charger that works most the time as well. I put a half full battery with a dead battery and it charges them back up. I know thats not the best method but trying to save as many batteries as I can!
Question. What is he best AA rechargeable battery for outside garden lighting? The one that will hold it's charge the longest while in use. Trying to find the one that will keep the garden light on all night and then charge in the daylight hours.
Anything you buy is better than the ones it comes with. I would get the energizer rechargeable NiMH. And make sure the panel is clean and facing the right direction. That’s your biggest enemy
The only problem that I've had with rechargeable Li Ion batteries is the blocking of the AM band on radios. This is likely due to the protective circuitry. I use them in lighting equipment, and not much else.
Thanks for the review. I have found that the energizer ultimate lithium AA batteries are the best bang for the buck for non rechargeable. Can usually get 20 of them for ~30 bucks on amazon. While they have about double the power of a normal AA alkaline cell, they DON'T LEAK and destroy equipment. I have had hundreds of dollars worth of flashlights, headlamps, and cameras destroyed by alkaline cells. The Energizer ultimate lithium usually run around 1.8 volts new. They are a 3.7v lithium cell with a voltage converter to a nominal 1.5v.
Totally get it, I just don't love the idea of disposable lithium products when they have products that are reusable/rechargeable. Also, the long term cost savings of rechargeable is where you win out. $1.30 for a single-use battery vs $5 for something that can be recharged realistically 100's of times. I know they say 1200 but I don't believe that. Even if you say 100 times the cost is $.05 per use vs $1.30
@@DoThingsMakeStuff I absolutely agree with your desire to use non disposable products, and that cycle life will most likely not be what is rated unless used under ideal laboratory conditions. I have switched most of my devices to ones using lithium rechargeable "packs". As an electrician that has installed a lot of battery based PV systems, I have spent a lot of time delving into battery chemistry. Battery University has a lot of good information, and Will Prowse has a great vid explaining the basics of cycle life and capacity, and the things that effect them: ua-cam.com/video/Yf9N9zBgyB8/v-deo.html .While he is mostly focused on larger battery systems, the basics still apply to small cells as well. I expect that 300 to 500 cycles is a lot more realistic based on real world conditions. And that is definitely a win for cost and environmental impact. There are some things that I do that help prolong cycle life of my lithium batteries: Stop using as soon as power starts dropping off. this keeps it from discharging the lower 20% of capacity. Don't charge when battery is hot to touch or ambient temperature is above 85 degrees F. While I know that discharging to 50% capacity before storage is best, I generally don't bother because of the hassle involved. I have also heard, but not verified, that if one is storing them for a long period, one can place the partially discharged battery into a watertight container and place in the freezer. Then, AND THIS IS IMPORTANT, one MUST DEFROST THEM FULLY before recharging. All my best to you, and thanks for taking the time to review these batteries.
There made more for high drain ultra bright flashlights. Lithium ion batterys generally discharge faster as well as they can be used on higher mode settings.
@@RossBoss90 I would. I’m not 100% sure how the charge profile, if it has one, works on them so I in the past just put better batteries but stick with the same chemistry
Most rechargeable batteries I have found operate at 1.2volts, disposable batteries run 1.5 volts. That's why most devices show partial charge because they only have a partial charge to start with rechargeable batteries.
@@procrastinator1842 The voltage output is what a device using batteries measures to indicate charge. The 1.2 volt rechargable only has 80% of the available charge of a 1.5 volt disposable battery. This is why devices show only 80% charge when a 1.2 battery is installed at peak capacitance. P=VI
@@ShaunPaget Perhaps I slightly misinterpreted your first comment. Discharge curves are also different between chemistries so the charge state indicator isn't much to go by.
I found a good use case for these rechargeable lithium ion AA batteries. I recently bought an HP Reverb G2 virtual reality headset. It uses voltage to measure when the batteries in the controllers are low, and if you use NiMH the controllers will immediately go into low power mode as if you had alkaline batteries that were almost used up. Rechargeable Lithium ion batteries don’t have this issue thanks to being 1.5V. The controllers seem to drain Alkaline AAs pretty quickly so I bought 8 EBL lithium ion rechargeable AA so I can have a set in use and a set on hand.
I hope you're not saying that just by reading it somewhere with incomplete information (the NiMH brand) without trying it yourself. I think all depends on the NiMH brand. Did you test NiMH in the HP Reverb? If so, what brand?.
The integrated “charger” takes up considerable space in the shell… I’m a huge fan of lithium ion and lithium iron phosphate (LifePO4), but every engineer I’ve spoken to has said the AA and AAA form factor are just not there yet. I love EBL NiMh and use hundreds in our emergency radio gear. (public safety portable radios and older PASS alarm units) self-discharge issue doesn’t really come into play nowadays, especially with EnerLoop and EBL. If you’re stuck using lithium AA and/or AAA, go with external chargers. EBL and Tenergy make nice chargers but only a few have USB-C as an option, and I detest micro-USB. Nice video and channel..Thanks!
Couldn't agree more, the mAh capacity on the lithium rechargeables (vs NiMh) is a deal-breaker, especially considering the cost. If/when AA & AAA lithium rechargeable technology hits 3000 "mAh" capacity, this is when I'll make the switch... to make the switch now is just too much of a lateral/sideways move.
Cool review. Something interesting I found: my NiMH batteries (Eneloop, EBL white, Tenergy Premium Pro) can’t reliably power my ancient point-and-shoot cameras whatsoever (Samsung S85 and S850). None of the alkaline AAs I tried were much better. Cameras were useless until I tried the EBL black microUSB Li-Ion rechargeables. Both cameras have dependably cracked off several dozen shots with lots of display on time and photo scrolling and stuff. No telling how long they’ll go (too early for me to report).
I don't get it. So, which battery technology gives you more battery life for your camera? The older Ni-MH? Or the newer Li-Ion? [because of their converter, btw, I'm worried the Li-Ion might damage a certain electrical appliance..]
@@eladbari These EBLs were the only ones I tried that would reliably operate my old Samsungs listed in my earlier response: Amazon listing “EBL AA Battery 1.5V AA Lithium ion Batteries 3300mWh High Capacity with Micro USB Cable, 2 Hours Quick Charge USB AA Rechargeable Batteries 4 Packs”
Well, I'd like to see the following out of a box. Heck, there is even a Patent on it. www.smithsonianmag.com/innovation/did-researchers-stumble-battery-lasts-forever-180958955/
There are D size converter shells that you can use to put AA batteries in, like 4 I think and it makes a D size battery. I have the AAA to AA Bayer converters, about 8 of them.
Correct me if I am wrong. 2800mah * 1.2v = 3360mvh, so this 1.5v 3300mvh equals that 1.2v 2800mah, lithium has a stable voltage so it beat that 1.2v 2800mah.
The math of it isn't my specialty but the Non lithium batteries do start at 1.3 and lose voltage as they get used. Lithium is a stable at 1.5 but its also 3300mwh, I don't know what mvh is?
@@DoThingsMakeStuff Yes, Non lithium start at 1.3-1.4 and end at 1.0 with an average at 1.2, so with different voltage MAH doesn't reflect the real battery capacity, MVH is the electricity volume you can use(1 micro volt 1 ampere 1 hour), your hydro company never charge you for MAH used but they also use MVH(kW h)
@@DoThingsMakeStuff Anther example, the mAh rating of 2019 Macbook Pro 13 is approx. 4,475mAh, do you think that huge battery used in the laptop is not as good as 2 double A batteries?
Muffin Cook no of course not. That’s a higher voltage batter and a higher capacity. I understand batteries, I’m not claiming to be the expert but obviously voltage and capacity are completely different between that battery and a AA
I have a sneaking suspicion that these batteries work by taking a regular old 4.2 volt lithium ion cell and using a buck converter to drop the voltage down to 1.5 volts which would explain why they stay at 1.5 volts from the time they're fresh all the way to the time they're completely outta juice instead of having a normal tapering discharge curve like other normal batteries have.
@@ambrosekillpack4841 I believe that is exactly how all the lithium small batteries work. Which is why when they added that charging port on top of the converter we loose capacity because of size constraints
I have been looking at the lithium batteries also. I have the SkyRc MC3000 charger, that will also charge lithium batteries. Since you are heavy into rechargeable batteries, you might want to try one of these chargers.
Thank thee for the excellent review. I went ahead and ordered them (OMG ... something else to recharge). I plan to use them in Macro ring flash. They may have less capacity but if I can recharge them 1200 times they are still a better deal than single use alkaline or lithium batteries.
don't think these lithium ion AA's will have enough current supply for a flashgun even though they have a higher voltage, because of step down voltage from lithium's 3.8v nominal voltage to 1.5 volt AA standard, should be good for high voltage low current devices.
I find the way to totally bring dead batterys back is to get a motorbike or car battery charger and just touch the terminals very quickly, and that should revive them. Only use the 6Volt option NOT THE 12Volt option Be careful tho
you can just use any charger typically that’s not a smart charger. You need something to give it some sort of charge so the smart charger will even notice a battery is connected!
If you also consider most AA NiMH rechargeable batteries are somewhere around 1900 mAh (Eneloop) to 2550 mAh (Eneloop Pro), the EBL AA Li-Ion rechargeable does compare to that. You end up paying a premium for the 1.5v Li-Ion vs the 1.2v NiMH and having the consistent higher voltage of the Li-Ion across the discharge cycle of the battery. Then there's another premium of the rechargeable Li-Ion battery over the one time use Li-Ion battery. It is definitely shady that they label the rechargeable battery with mWh instead of mAh though. Like you said, in the case of a high lumen flashlight or camera flash, the rechargeable Li-Ion would probably have a benefit, but for everyday use, the single use Li-Ion is probably the way to go. Comparing prices, a 16 pack of the AA single use batteries can be bought for the price of just 4 rechargeable batteries with the charging adapter.
Yep I bought some and also just realised it is 3500 mWh and I also read it as 3500 mAh Doh! Like you I thought it was the ultimately high storage capacity, but sadly when you do the V x A = W conversion you can see it is 2200mAh. Damn it.
yup! well well live and learn I guess! But they are still cool for being able to charge with Micro USB. I just keep them in my backpack since I can charge them with cables I already have.
Lol.. you sang my song! Just went through all this.. and ended up with the same. Then, right before I bought them.. I found you. Thank you for a great review! It would have been nice to have those Panasonic Li-ion rechargeable batteries.. but unfortunately Panasonic only rolls with industrial ballers. Lol
An update would be nice!! Don't think I missed you addressing this, but my understanding is that lithium batteries take 3-5 charge cycles to hit peak capacity, then apparently last longer, so very curious if you experienced this!
If they have changed capacity its not a noticeable amount. My only update would be that I haven't been using them as much as I probably should be because I'm in such a rhythm with my standard rechargeable batteries that I don't use them often. But what I have liked them for is for travel. It so easy to throw 4 in my backpack with the usb charger. Since I have USB plugs, solar panels and battery bank that I travel with, it's such a lighter easier travel set up! So for that I would 100% recommend!
Hey guy, in case you haven't seen it and no one's mentioned it, there's a way to possibly recover those dead ones the charger won't recognize. Another YTer called Will Work For Liberty has a clever fix for it. Good video, btw. Cheers!
You just saved me 45$ and being frustrated! I’ve used nh for ever and they worked great till I put them in lights and found that they are not as bright as alkaline! I hate that gotcha moment! Lol
Anybody know about Keeppower USB rechargeable Li-ion AA battery? Their 18650 and 21700 USB rechargeable li-ion battery are just perfect, but not sure about the AA... Can someone test it for us? Thanks.
New EBL Lithium Batteries - amzn.to/3dsIZtM Has anyone seen or tried these? Looks like it might need a specific charger since it's sold with one, batteries aren't sold alone on amazon. Rating is 3000 mwh so it's still lower than most NiMh. Any Thoughts?
2+ years ago, bought elb white batteries (rechargable). They slowly die and I have been throwing one away every once in a while as they refuse to recharge. I prefer amazon rechargable. just one opinion.
For EBL's I use their smart charger - amzn.to/3miSAX1 For everything else and for a portable charger I like my Nitecore - amzn.to/2IX45Fs I'm under the assumption that EBL has the best charging algorithm for their own batteries which is why I decided that. That is with no information, just an assumption!
They got to come up with a new battery configurations (size standards) for lithium to optimize the technical considerations of the lithium technology. Forcing a lithium battery design into a seemingly antiquated sizing standard appears to handcuff the technology. Also, the non-rechargeable lithium AA batteries have a way higher capacity than other AA battery types. Having the charge controller in the body of the lithium rechargeable battery seems to be the reason for the drop in capacity. Why cant they just have the charge controller as part of a charging station instead? I would buy that in a heart beat. Chime in if any of you know.
100% agree! I think we're still early in adoption of this tech. I'm constantly trying to convince friends and family to switch to rechargeable instead of using throw away batteries just on the principle of saving money. If there was a high adoptions i'm sure companies would much rather make a product thats 3v instead of 1.5 so their product could run longer. But they know people see upfront price and aren't willing to spend a little bit more upfront for a long term savings. Its the Lead Acid vs Lifepo4 eternal struggle.
well, the form factor is fine for what li ion needs, simply a cylinder or flat rectangular shape. but the thing is that if using li-ion, they NEED a controller board to disconnect them once the go below their minimum, (around 2.8v) unlike other battery types like nimhs and non-rechargeables, since those won't burn up if you keep them connected and they die out. however, the boards take only take 2 or 3 mm at the end, so not much loss there. however, the physical usb port does take up quite a bit, so in theory, if they don't have it, then you'll be getting the max possible energy storage that the AA form can accommodate. as for adopting a different form factor, the 18650 has become a popular standard for electronics switching over to li ion batteries, else they just use internal batteries with their own form factors. one can also purchase the 18650 with the integrated board or just the actual battery itself meant to be only used with an external li ion battery board.
Honestly, I have gone through a few recently. This is the one I currently use the most and like - amzn.to/3NWxgGu It handles my Lithium batteries as well as all the others. Seems to charge my batteries that are so low my other chargers won't pick up. I've used multiple EBLS which are just ok. I had a nitecore i4 I used for years that just died. They don't make that model anymore but nitecore has a bunch of new ones.
Thanks for your video, you saved my life, well,,, more my wallet's life. I almost made the exact same mistake due to the 3300 mWt instead of the mAps. But I need to ask you. You were talking about audio equipment. Do you really think that the 2800s would perform well, on my wireless mic, when I make my 3 hour shows??? With of course some break time in between. It's really important, cause my old rechargeable Duracells can't even last 2 hours, they're totally done for, they're old. But I see that the Duracell brand has dropped a lot when it comes to rechargeable batteries. In power as well as in durability. But AGAIN... Do you honestly think, that they would give me a good full lasting performance when I have to do a 3 hour show? Oh Yeah, I almost forgot; Do they charge in a normal doubleA charger? or they need their own charger? I would greatly appreciate your input on this one. Thanks for your video
Great questions. So I use the standard EBL rechargeable battery in my Sennheiser handheld and packs. They are on from 8:30am till around 12:30 and I've never ever had one die. These ones being smaller capacity I think 3 hrs is probably right around max time for a reliable connection but that is untested. For the lithium ones in this video you can use any micro usb cable to charge them. For standard rechargeable batteries you must use a smart charger. The "dumb" charger that comes with most of them and charges together in pairs is garbage. If you're using EBL's I use their chargers with the assumption that a charging algorithm is set up for their batteries. I also have a few other smart chargers that also charge my 18650 batteries and has a 12v car adapter. So yes yes EBL Smart Charger - amzn.to/3hfWVHy Nite Core - amzn.to/32e73MZ Those are the two I use most the time!
Thanks for a help. I greatly appreciate it. I will give them a try. But if I can't afford the EBL charger right away, will my old charger damage the batteries? Or it will only take forever to charge em? Cause I just received my new batteries, but I didn't buy a changer for it. So please let me know thanks.👍
Ya so if something needs a lot of current they probably won't work because it's a buck converter so it might not be good for sensitive electronics and you it's not the actual discharge curve it's the buck converter so it will go from full to empty and the problem with them saying the Mah is that the lithium cell is going to be like 900mah but at 3.6v I guess they could say like 2200ma equivalent or like 2750 equivalent if they are comparing it ni-mh
I still prefer Enloops to EBL. I only use EBL because I can only get Enloops in AA and AAA. What do you think is the best brand for C, and D sizes? What I have found is that if you completely drain a battery some of the "newer" smart chargers will see it as dead and will not charge it. What you can do is put them in an older "Dumb" charger for a few minutes and then switch to the new charger.
For D's I use AA adapters. I love keeping everything the same battery type and for that reason I don't use c's! I know their are C adapters but I try to stay away! Dumb charger trick works like a charm!
Nice, glad I kept my dad's old Energizer family dumb charger kit for his old nimh energizer rechargeable batteries. Though I may need to get a new dumb charger for the lithium ion batteries (or just use my vape mod's trustfire lithium ion battery dumb charger too I suppose)
The one thing that you failed to mention is that the 1.5 V batteries have a current limit. If you try to use them in something that draws more than 2 amps they will shut off. A small drawback. Other than that a nice video. The thing I was looking for was can these batteries be charged on a regular battery charger instead of the micro port? I have not been able to find this information anywhere. bob
These are rechargeable lithium, they have a 4.2 volt lithium ion or lithium polymer cell and a regulator to step down the voltage to 1.5v all the major brands produce a one time use lithium cell but that’s not what this new technology is. These are also now available in the 9v “Transistor” package and “D” cell package
I think NiMH batteries are toughest of all batteries. More cycle life, minimal harm when over discharged, very low internal resistance, flat discharge - voltage curve....
@@DoThingsMakeStuff LiFePO4 has better energy/mass density but volumetric energy density is similar. NiMH may be better if your device does not need to be light.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts! Some of my thoughts: The rechargeable lithium batteries have a reduced capacity due to the charging, protection, and voltage regulation circuitry they have to put into them, because the cells are actually 3.7 volts that have to be stepped down to 1.5 volts. Currently, there are no chargers that can recognize this type of battery and charge them correctly, which is why all that circuitry is in the battery. The benefit is that they have a flat discharge curve (unlike an alkaline) and higher 1.5 volt output (unlike an nimh or nicd). That makes them useful where you may have sensitive circuits that don’t run well at less than 1.5 volts or where you want slightly more power like flashlights. True, they don’t last as long as non-rechargeable lithium, but they can be recharged like 1000 to 1200 times, so they more than pay for themselves. They also hold a charge for a long time. Additionally, they can be used in high drain devices where alkaline can’t. They also don’t leak their guts all over the place when they are drained or left in a device for years. Also, having a tiny cord for charging and either a wall wort or power pack makes them highly portable. They aren’t a panacea, but they definitely fill a need. I use them for multimeters and other test equipment, remotes, flashlights, and things where nimh batteries lack the necessary horsepower. Regarding cells that are drained and won’t charge, you should try jump starting them before tossing them. Basically, take a good battery, the drained battery, and a couple of paper clips. Place a paper clip on the table and set both negative ends on the paper clip, then take the other paper clip and touch it to the two positive ends for a second or two, but no more than that. That should be enough to impart a very slight voltage to the drained cell. Then try to charge it in the charger. You might need to cycle the battery a few times between charge and discharge to restore it properly. However, if the battery behaves oddly, such as gets really hot or charges/discharges abnormally fast, it may be defective and should then be tossed.
Apparently you cannot put them three in a row you can run them two in a row but not three or more apparently is very bad for the battery in the middle that's why it dies and it doesn't come back
@@DoThingsMakeStuff Oh yeah, that is frustrating for sure because then you have to go back through old videos and update affiliate links over and over. But you noticed and responded quickly! I've been searching for decent lithium ion AA batteries to buy but there are just SO MANY, it gets overwhelming fast. Edit: subbed
Not only is the label at trick but I purchased two packs and had two chargers.. only three charge. Still testing but not sure if it only charges three at a time or both cables have a dead micro USB cable. Anyone else has this issue?
Thats weird, No they are all independent batteries. So either dead battery or dead leg of the charge cable. Use a standard micro USB to USB-A cable and give it a shot to rule out the battery. boo thats a bummer to hear!
This also reminded me that I'm really not even using these batteries. I'm going to start using them in a regular item i replace batteries in so we can get some longevity testing in.
Agreed. I did before the post and all the batteries seem to be fine. Need to test further but like you the jury is still out. Eneloops are still my tried and ture.
I believe those are single use batteries. Little more capacity since they don’t have hardware in the top. Shoot me a link of which ones you’re looking at?
Panasonic eneloops are the holy grail of rechargeable batteries they are in my eyes expensive around 4 to 5 bucks per battery but after 8 plus years and hundreds of charges if not over 1k p,us charges and still going as strong as the day I bought them eneloops are the kings of recharable batteries and to the cheap people thst will buy other brands of rechargeables good luck I’ve tried most brands and well you all know my choice.
I’ve got enloops as well, I like them but I haven’t noticed them being much better. They would need to last 2-3x to justify the price you’re saying. I’ve got some energizers I’m running now I like. But I’m really trying to move toward lithium AA’s which have been great
I read a reddit poster who did as you asked, he charged his USB C as battery while using his GPS and it fried his GPS. He had used EBL lithium usb-c rechargeable batteries. Best I could find (shrug) what did you end up going with, are you happy with it?
I found 4 pack 26650 EBL lifepo4 5000mah batteries on walmart for $20...Would that be considered [12v]?...And would I be able to put them together for a 48v 1000w 20ah battery?
I could be wrong so maybe someone smarter than me will chime in. If you put them together in series you should get 12v of 20mah battery. mah - milliamp hour, 20ah is amp her which is very different. You should also need a BMS and knowledge on connecting things well. I know there are some UA-camrs who are killer at building batteries and they would be the ones I would ask for some help! @jehugarcia is probably you guy!
@@omerkaya545 3 volts is actually what it will be. Standard AA batteries start at 1.5 and will drop down to 1.3 then to 1 when they are dead. Most rechargeable batteries start at 1.3 and taper off from there. The great thing about lithium batteries with a controller inside, like these, do, is that they will start at 1.5 and maintain that until they are depleted which ends up resulting in a very rapid drop-off. So these batteries together should give you a consistent 3v that will keep you at the peak operating for your camera until they are dead. Then recharge and you're back in action!
You keep falling for marketing hype. Just because the EBL batteries say 2,800 mAh, doesn't mean they are actually 2,800 mAh. Many people have tested these at around 2450 mAh.
Yep -- the best NiMH batteries I have (Eneloops) will charge up to about 1.45v on my Ansmann charger. Once off the charger their voltage rapidly drops into the 1.3 range even if placed in a drawer. And when in operation, the voltage drops into the 1.2-1.3 range rather quickly. That's the nature of NiMH batteries, but they have greater capacity than the lithium ones of the same size. There are pros and cons to each, I own some lithium AAs as well, and for certain things (remote controls and game controllers) I prefer the lithium ones because those devices perform much better when the battery stays closer to 1.5v.
While the EBL NMH batteries are rated from 2800 mah on the packaging & on the side of the battery. If you were to check test the actual battery capacity by using an inexpensive battery analyzer?The actual capacity is on average 70% of 2800 mah which equals approximately 1900-2000 mah of actual battery capacity with several variables possibly affecting the results.Taking into consideration, the fact that the batteries are so much cheaper than many other brands? This may not matter to most people. This is more of an FYI regarding boosted numbers in order to increase sales over other competitors by boasting how much higher rated capacity on the packaging when compared to testing the batteries. Unfortunately, most of the Asian battery manufactures utilize this tactic. The only way to find out the capacity is to either test batteries yourself or watch several different UA-cam videos in order to find what brand of battery best suits ones needs .
Was really hoping for some test data. EBL has a somewhat bad reputation for making claims that their products can't meet. I was wondering if this one was different.
Based on the comparison their rating seems right on, just tricked me by not catching the mwh vs mah. There are some great comments below with some people breaking down the math of it for ya!
I got these some months back and they are best used for low drain devices that need the 1.5v, I also has the EBL 2800 however when you test them and my charger has that function they test closer to 2400 - 2500mha so really you are not loosing a whole lot, sure the nimh will run longer but it is not really down to the raw capacity it is because they will continue to run all the way down to an utterly unusable voltage, and here is the flaw with the testing in this video because a motor is not voltage aware and it will use any voltage right down to zero so it might run 4 hours but if at the 2 hour point voltage drops to 0.5v then it is useless but the motor will still run and so you could say they lasted longer but did they really? when it comes to battery's they have a max and min voltage and anything below the in is utterly useless and this is the flaw with nimh they start ok but instantly drop to 1.2v and then soon after under a volt. This is why your testing is flawed as a standard mimh will keep pooting out power all the way under a volt all the time the device struggles to run and it does this till ether the device fails or the battery is utterly drained, where as the lithium ones put out a constant 1.5V and rather than fruitlessly hanging in there like the nimh to a low low voltage and lower than in processable it instead cuts them of at 1.5v when the lithium cell is no longer capable of outputting to that voltage, so for consistent output these new ones are better. I use these for low drain devices like a PC mouse and the standard ebl 2800 run dry after or become erratic at about a month while the lithium are still going strong 1 and a half months after charged so really it comes down to application and well testing method and a electrically dumb motor is not really the way
Yup I completely agree, they are great and I use the mostly in my controllers now and they work amazing. I have had a few people comment that they don' work in specific devices but im not sure why
@@DoThingsMakeStuff I had a similar issue as i tried to use these batteries in things like LED torches / heated gloves and they failed to work properly, I think part of the problem is that they have a BMS that can only output so much current and so when a device demands more power/current than the BMS can safely provide it limits it, where as non rechargeable or MiMH do not have any circuitry or current limiting and will deliver as much as is needed even if it damages the battery
Best li-ion (3.7v) on the market are 800mAh or 3200mWh. Your battery has 15% of the volume used for charger so i doubt that is anywhere near 3300mWh advertised. Probably 2000mWh or 1600mAh.
@@DoThingsMakeStuff I meant real 3.7v batteries in form of 14500, which don't have their volume wasted on charger and buck converter, just for reference. I saw someone tested kently 1.5v li ion and they have around 1600 mah or 2400 mWh. I think that's the best you can get from this form factor.
the chemistry is different the the voltage is stepped down to 1.5 which is what makes them great. But it's still a AA battery so i don't think its completely different no.
The lithium rechargable AA's will have protection in them to cut them off discharging so when your child leaved them in a toy they wont be damaged. Also when i get a NiMH battery thatwont charge i put 1.2v across it fot 30 seconds with a bench PSU and then drop it in to the charger and it works fine after that.
Thats what I do! or use some wire or something metal and connect them to another battery for a couple seconds. Just enough so the smart charger can see them!
It brings into question the tactics behind the company using such marketing tricks... For me this video tells me something important...EBL ARE CASHING in using unfair tricky marketing.... I'm shocked how gentle you are for what EBL is doing?
Well I think it was more confusion. Some of the comments below break down the ratings based on it being Lithium and voltage regulation and such. I've started using the batteries more and am trying to get a real feel for how they function.
For me this is the holy grail... 1.5v until cut out is great in so many ways. I use them in my remote controls, outside sensors and small flashlights.
I remember when I was a kid, I hated how my toys moved slower and slower over a long period of time. 2 hours of full speed is more fun than 4-5 hours of medium speed :)
haha for sure! My wife had some battery powered lights for Christmas that weren't cutting it for her. I added these batteries instead of the EBL Ni-Mh and BOOM way brighter!
Beyond preference, some devices wont' work correctly on dipping voltage. My heated gloves won't even turn on with a fully charged NiMH set at 1.35v/cell.
Of the NiMH batteries I found that the EBLs had a significant failure rate after a year or so being used in our church school. The 2800 is really nearer to 2200-2400. We use a lot of them in various uses in the school so we get a pretty good use and failure profile. We also use a lot of Amazon AAs and none of them have failed through continuous use and cycling so far. We have about 50/50 of the two brands. The fact that we use a lot of them in auto waste bins, label makers, clocks, remotes etc gives us a pretty good feel for their durability. We have about 50 of them in use or standing by ready to use. For my personal use I stick to cells from the original factory in Japan. That would be Eneloop and LADDA from IKEA. IKEA is significantly less expensive than Eneloop for pretty much the identical cell. I use Eneloop exclusively in our church wireless mics and LADDA at home, both AAA and AA. Thought I would share actual use experience with a large batch. However, the EBLs are attractively priced and can be replaced easily. I have bought three different rechargeable li-ion brands for trial. Two AAs have gone dead but more work needed.
Same thing here, I used EBL’s not just for home but also for our church and just about everywhere else. I think the ability to replace them cheaply makes them very attractive. But I’m switching off of them personally and moving toward energizer for NiMH and Lithium aa’s for high need equipment.
A surprisingly well put together and informative review from a smaller channel. By how good you are at talking to the camera I thought you had way for subs. Nice job!
I appreciate that! I'm just having fun and stoked every time someone enjoys it! Thanks for the comment!
That's called talent
Thank you for spotting the mWh instead of mAh rating I missed it to .. I did still buy them as I want them for a camera which goes through 4AA batteries in as little as 30min
They are great, just the capacity thing was a bummer.
@Jannie Kirsten - The lithium rechargeables in the video are not the holy grail. Why(?) because they can't run as long as top-rated AA NiMh + NiMh is much less expensive. When lithium rechargeables can produce 2500-3000 mAh, then (yes) they will be the "new" holy grail :)
I've had the same problem with EBLs and others where they refuse to take a charge if they get discharged too low. One thing I've had success with is charging them with my old school maha mh-204 which charges in pairs. I think it takes the average voltage of the 2 and charges them both up. Often I just put it in for 10 mins or so, then can move to my newer charger. Thanks for the review.
I started doing the same thing! Some else in the comments recommended the same thing and its been great!
Great video! I just bought some sets of similar batterees from Jugee (3,3v rechargable lithium cells inside, some control electronics to output 1,5 volt, etc.) at 3000 mWh. Some reviews of those estimate mAh value at about 1800. Only difference between these EBL's and Jugee is, that the Jugee's do not have a micro-usb port. So they come with a 'cradle' with just 5v passthrough from USB power source.
My application: We have a "Sure Petcare" connected cat flap, which EATS C cells. About 4 Alkaline C cells in 2-2,5 months. And the cat flap totally dislikes 1,2v NiMH rechargables. So in this case, despite much lower capacity, this type of rechargable Lithium batteries is a really great alternative to just keep on buying disposable batteries.
So in short:
* Have appliances which deal with the 1,2V from regular NiMH rechargables? Absolutely go for those
* Have appliances that eat batteries, need maximum voltage or otherwise really go badly on 1,2V NiMH's? Get these EBL's (or Jugee)
yes 100%!
I haven't tried ones with a cradle but I wonder if the cradle approach allows the manufacturer to pack a little bit larger battery cell into the AA shape than the ones that come with the micro-USB port. That's my hunch at least!
I have that happen to some of my batteries. The problem stems from the computer type charger. The trick I learned is using an old Radio Shack charger. I always said they would cook the batteries. In this case it is a good thing. A few minutes in that type of charger and then return them to the newer charger and they charge again.
TRAIL CAMERA!! If you are having trail camera issues, THIS is likely the problem. Yup! I tossed some lithiums in my trail cam thinking I would be better off. NOOOOPE. It started with only 2 (of 3) bars, and just will randomly shut off whenever. Unpredictable behavior.
Great video. Saved my butt. Thanks.
oh weird! That's great to know, thanks for the tip!
@@DoThingsMakeStuff Update. the EBL lithium rechargeables 1.5v fixed the issue.
I use these exact batteries to power my telescope mount and for that purpose they provide phenomenal performance. With these powering my mount I can track Jupiter flawlessly at 850x in -17c temps, no other power source even those designed for telescopes could provide that level of precision. These provide a constant 1.5v of power to the motors which is what they need to be precise right down to 10% capacity and can run my mount for up to 24 hours. My set is about 3.5 years old now and still providing the same performance and about 22 hours of runtime.
Subscribing from now on. Will be buying these cells for my light. mWh is actually the apacity of the cell in watts. If you divide it by 1.5V you'll get the capacity in ampere.
3300mWh/1500mV=2200mAh.
It's close to the actual reading of the ebl 2800 nimh at around 2400mAh.
The reason why nimh lasted longer maybe because of its drop in power. It doesn't stay on 1.5V. I bet if its forced to maintain a 1.5V it will significantly lower the runtime.
I tried running an ebl 2800 before on a high drain device and only ran for 50mins and even lower runtime for alkaline. Someone from a forum said it draws more current to compensate for the low 1.2V to close the gap and maintain a certain wattage.
Actual measurements did somehow matched the claim. It only read 1.4A for 3.7V li ion but read a staggering 3.2A for 1.2V nimh.
Yes sir you're 100% right on! Thanks for the great comment and info! I appreciate the Sub!
You can save those batteries that don't seem to charge by taking two wires and connecting a good rechargable battery to the bad one for 5 seconds. Then putting it back in the charger and it will begin to charge again! Saves even more money without having to toss
Pro Tip: When you get that problem of batteries emptying out to a level they can't be recharged that happens because they are so drained out that the charger can't properly test them. To fix that all you have to do it connect them to a fully charged battery so that the plus is connected to the plus and the minus to the minus for about 5 seconds. The way I do it is put them on a desk, so that the positive end of one touches the positive end of the other and use a bent paper clip to connect the negative ends. After holding this for 5 seconds the dead battery will be recharged enough for the charger to properly detect it. It usually works after one try but if it's not enough a second round will do they trick 99% of the time.
Yes 100% is a great way to go. I also have a "dumb" charger that works most the time as well. I put a half full battery with a dead battery and it charges them back up. I know thats not the best method but trying to save as many batteries as I can!
Question. What is he best AA rechargeable battery for outside garden lighting? The one that will hold it's charge the longest while in use. Trying to find the one that will keep the garden light on all night and then charge in the daylight hours.
Anything you buy is better than the ones it comes with. I would get the energizer rechargeable NiMH. And make sure the panel is clean and facing the right direction. That’s your biggest enemy
The only problem that I've had with rechargeable Li Ion batteries is the blocking of the AM band on radios. This is likely due to the protective circuitry. I use them in lighting equipment, and not much else.
Really!? I had no idea that’s great information!
Thanks for the review. I have found that the energizer ultimate lithium AA batteries are the best bang for the buck for non rechargeable. Can usually get 20 of them for ~30 bucks on amazon. While they have about double the power of a normal AA alkaline cell, they DON'T LEAK and destroy equipment. I have had hundreds of dollars worth of flashlights, headlamps, and cameras destroyed by alkaline cells. The Energizer ultimate lithium usually run around 1.8 volts new. They are a 3.7v lithium cell with a voltage converter to a nominal 1.5v.
Totally get it, I just don't love the idea of disposable lithium products when they have products that are reusable/rechargeable. Also, the long term cost savings of rechargeable is where you win out. $1.30 for a single-use battery vs $5 for something that can be recharged realistically 100's of times. I know they say 1200 but I don't believe that. Even if you say 100 times the cost is $.05 per use vs $1.30
@@DoThingsMakeStuff I absolutely agree with your desire to use non disposable products, and that cycle life will most likely not be what is rated unless used under ideal laboratory conditions. I have switched most of my devices to ones using lithium rechargeable "packs". As an electrician that has installed a lot of battery based PV systems, I have spent a lot of time delving into battery chemistry. Battery University has a lot of good information, and Will Prowse has a great vid explaining the basics of cycle life and capacity, and the things that effect them: ua-cam.com/video/Yf9N9zBgyB8/v-deo.html .While he is mostly focused on larger battery systems, the basics still apply to small cells as well. I expect that 300 to 500 cycles is a lot more realistic based on real world conditions. And that is definitely a win for cost and environmental impact. There are some things that I do that help prolong cycle life of my lithium batteries: Stop using as soon as power starts dropping off. this keeps it from discharging the lower 20% of capacity. Don't charge when battery is hot to touch or ambient temperature is above 85 degrees F. While I know that discharging to 50% capacity before storage is best, I generally don't bother because of the hassle involved. I have also heard, but not verified, that if one is storing them for a long period, one can place the partially discharged battery into a watertight container and place in the freezer. Then, AND THIS IS IMPORTANT, one MUST DEFROST THEM FULLY before recharging. All my best to you, and thanks for taking the time to review these batteries.
I bought a blink security camera and they only use Lithium batteries. Very expensive as you know. I am going to try these thanks
There made more for high drain ultra bright flashlights. Lithium ion batterys generally discharge faster as well as they can be used on higher mode settings.
100%, I just got some new ones to test out that don’t charge via usb so they have a little bit higher capacity
@@DoThingsMakeStuff Nice! I have some solar lights outside that need replacing, would you recommend nickle cadium rechargeable batterys?
@@RossBoss90 I would. I’m not 100% sure how the charge profile, if it has one, works on them so I in the past just put better batteries but stick with the same chemistry
Makes sense, thanks I appreciate the info.
Most rechargeable batteries I have found operate at 1.2volts, disposable batteries run 1.5 volts. That's why most devices show partial charge because they only have a partial charge to start with rechargeable batteries.
The voltage isn't the state of charge, that's determined by the chemistry if the cell.
@@procrastinator1842 The voltage output is what a device using batteries measures to indicate charge. The 1.2 volt rechargable only has 80% of the available charge of a 1.5 volt disposable battery. This is why devices show only 80% charge when a 1.2 battery is installed at peak capacitance. P=VI
@@ShaunPaget Perhaps I slightly misinterpreted your first comment. Discharge curves are also different between chemistries so the charge state indicator isn't much to go by.
@@procrastinator1842 life would be much simpler if manufacturers would just list duty cycle of a battery. But then they would have to deliver.
Truth
I found a good use case for these rechargeable lithium ion AA batteries. I recently bought an HP Reverb G2 virtual reality headset. It uses voltage to measure when the batteries in the controllers are low, and if you use NiMH the controllers will immediately go into low power mode as if you had alkaline batteries that were almost used up.
Rechargeable Lithium ion batteries don’t have this issue thanks to being 1.5V. The controllers seem to drain Alkaline AAs pretty quickly so I bought 8 EBL lithium ion rechargeable AA so I can have a set in use and a set on hand.
I was just about to do the same thing
Thats perfect and exactly what these are great for!
I hope you're not saying that just by reading it somewhere with incomplete information (the NiMH brand) without trying it yourself.
I think all depends on the NiMH brand. Did you test NiMH in the HP Reverb? If so, what brand?.
The integrated “charger” takes up considerable space in the shell…
I’m a huge fan of lithium ion and lithium iron phosphate (LifePO4), but every engineer I’ve spoken to has said the AA and AAA form factor are just not there yet.
I love EBL NiMh and use hundreds in our emergency radio gear. (public safety portable radios and older PASS alarm units) self-discharge issue doesn’t really come into play nowadays, especially with EnerLoop and EBL.
If you’re stuck using lithium AA and/or AAA, go with external chargers. EBL and Tenergy make nice chargers but only a few have USB-C as an option, and I detest micro-USB.
Nice video and channel..Thanks!
Couldn't agree more, the mAh capacity on the lithium rechargeables (vs NiMh) is a deal-breaker, especially considering the cost. If/when AA & AAA lithium rechargeable technology hits 3000 "mAh" capacity, this is when I'll make the switch... to make the switch now is just too much of a lateral/sideways move.
Thank you for the heads up wow I got had to! Now I know MWH is not the same MAH,
They’re tricky!
Eneloop and/or ikea ladda (eneloops rewrapped) are still the kings.
I’ve had a bunch of enloops, they were fine but seems to die much more often. I don’t find them to be any better
I have a bunch of ladda AA and I love them. I kind of want to add some eneloops to the mix as well.
Tenergy good value although not believe the mAh rating
Project farm mostly agrees, but the Duracell rechargeables are about the same or better.
@@DoThingsMakeStuff I've literally never had any of my batteries die - have had all eneloop for 4+ years. Nothing really high drain though.
Cool review. Something interesting I found: my NiMH batteries (Eneloop, EBL white, Tenergy Premium Pro) can’t reliably power my ancient point-and-shoot cameras whatsoever (Samsung S85 and S850). None of the alkaline AAs I tried were much better. Cameras were useless until I tried the EBL black microUSB Li-Ion rechargeables. Both cameras have dependably cracked off several dozen shots with lots of display on time and photo scrolling and stuff. No telling how long they’ll go (too early for me to report).
I don't get it.
So, which battery technology gives you more battery life for your camera?
The older Ni-MH? Or the newer Li-Ion? [because of their converter, btw, I'm worried the Li-Ion might damage a certain electrical appliance..]
@@eladbari These EBLs were the only ones I tried that would reliably operate my old Samsungs listed in my earlier response: Amazon listing “EBL AA Battery 1.5V AA Lithium ion Batteries 3300mWh High Capacity with Micro USB Cable, 2 Hours Quick Charge USB AA Rechargeable Batteries 4 Packs”
People are often really excited about stuff that they've just taken out of a box in a video on youtube. ;-)
Yes I am... I mean was
Well, I'd like to see the following out of a box. Heck, there is even a Patent on it.
www.smithsonianmag.com/innovation/did-researchers-stumble-battery-lasts-forever-180958955/
any Lithium rechargeable AA battery on the market I have seen are 1200mAh or tricky 3300mWh which is half the capacity of 2800mAh
There are D size converter shells that you can use to put AA batteries in, like 4 I think and it makes a D size battery. I have the AAA to AA Bayer converters, about 8 of them.
Correct me if I am wrong. 2800mah * 1.2v = 3360mvh, so this 1.5v 3300mvh equals that 1.2v 2800mah, lithium has a stable voltage so it beat that 1.2v 2800mah.
The math of it isn't my specialty but the Non lithium batteries do start at 1.3 and lose voltage as they get used. Lithium is a stable at 1.5 but its also 3300mwh, I don't know what mvh is?
@@DoThingsMakeStuff Yes, Non lithium start at 1.3-1.4 and end at 1.0 with an average at 1.2, so with different voltage MAH doesn't reflect the real battery capacity, MVH is the electricity volume you can use(1 micro volt 1 ampere 1 hour), your hydro company never charge you for MAH used but they also use MVH(kW h)
@@DoThingsMakeStuff Anther example, the mAh rating of 2019 Macbook Pro 13 is approx. 4,475mAh, do you think that huge battery used in the laptop is not as good as 2 double A batteries?
Muffin Cook no of course not. That’s a higher voltage batter and a higher capacity. I understand batteries, I’m not claiming to be the expert but obviously voltage and capacity are completely different between that battery and a AA
I have a sneaking suspicion that these batteries work by taking a regular old 4.2 volt lithium ion cell and using a buck converter to drop the voltage down to 1.5 volts which would explain why they stay at 1.5 volts from the time they're fresh all the way to the time they're completely outta juice instead of having a normal tapering discharge curve like other normal batteries have.
@@ambrosekillpack4841 I believe that is exactly how all the lithium small batteries work. Which is why when they added that charging port on top of the converter we loose capacity because of size constraints
I have been looking at the lithium batteries also. I have the SkyRc MC3000 charger, that will also charge lithium batteries. Since you are heavy into rechargeable batteries, you might want to try one of these chargers.
I’ll take a look! My nitecore just died recently
Thank thee for the excellent review. I went ahead and ordered them (OMG ... something else to recharge). I plan to use them in Macro ring flash. They may have less capacity but if I can recharge them 1200 times they are still a better deal than single use alkaline or lithium batteries.
I agree they have their place and this might be it!!
don't think these lithium ion AA's will have enough current supply for a flashgun even though they have a higher voltage, because of step down voltage from lithium's 3.8v nominal voltage to 1.5 volt AA standard, should be good for high voltage low current devices.
I find the way to totally bring dead batterys back is to get a motorbike or car battery charger and just touch the terminals very quickly, and that should revive them.
Only use the 6Volt option NOT THE 12Volt option
Be careful tho
you can just use any charger typically that’s not a smart charger. You need something to give it some sort of charge so the smart charger will even notice a battery is connected!
DoThingsMakeStuff I did this trick with a Button battery, and it exploded 😀
It wasnt a good idea
12Volt.......Allah hu akbar!!!
If you also consider most AA NiMH rechargeable batteries are somewhere around 1900 mAh (Eneloop) to 2550 mAh (Eneloop Pro), the EBL AA Li-Ion rechargeable does compare to that. You end up paying a premium for the 1.5v Li-Ion vs the 1.2v NiMH and having the consistent higher voltage of the Li-Ion across the discharge cycle of the battery. Then there's another premium of the rechargeable Li-Ion battery over the one time use Li-Ion battery. It is definitely shady that they label the rechargeable battery with mWh instead of mAh though. Like you said, in the case of a high lumen flashlight or camera flash, the rechargeable Li-Ion would probably have a benefit, but for everyday use, the single use Li-Ion is probably the way to go. Comparing prices, a 16 pack of the AA single use batteries can be bought for the price of just 4 rechargeable batteries with the charging adapter.
And if u get the 2800ebl for 1$ per its a steal
Thanks for the honest review.
Of course!
Yep I bought some and also just realised it is 3500 mWh and I also read it as 3500 mAh Doh! Like you I thought it was the ultimately high storage capacity, but sadly when you do the V x A = W conversion you can see it is 2200mAh. Damn it.
yup! well well live and learn I guess! But they are still cool for being able to charge with Micro USB. I just keep them in my backpack since I can charge them with cables I already have.
I thought 3000 was to high straight away even the best 18650 lithium cells are only 3350mah there are others that plain lie and claimed 9000mah
Lol.. you sang my song! Just went through all this.. and ended up with the same. Then, right before I bought them.. I found you. Thank you for a great review!
It would have been nice to have those Panasonic Li-ion rechargeable batteries.. but unfortunately Panasonic only rolls with industrial ballers. Lol
it would be nice you're right! Thanks for the comment!
An update would be nice!! Don't think I missed you addressing this, but my understanding is that lithium batteries take 3-5 charge cycles to hit peak capacity, then apparently last longer, so very curious if you experienced this!
If they have changed capacity its not a noticeable amount. My only update would be that I haven't been using them as much as I probably should be because I'm in such a rhythm with my standard rechargeable batteries that I don't use them often. But what I have liked them for is for travel. It so easy to throw 4 in my backpack with the usb charger. Since I have USB plugs, solar panels and battery bank that I travel with, it's such a lighter easier travel set up! So for that I would 100% recommend!
Yeah, but that's like to the order of a few hundred mAH at most, not enough to make a huge difference in runtime.
Because of the circuitry in the battery, do they emit an RF interference that would make them unacceptable for shortwave radios?
@@watchcat1898 that’s a great question. I don’t have the equipment to test that.
They work in my GMRS radios
The actual lithium battery inside that battery is 3.7v that's why it cannot charge the normal way. The circuit inside lowers it too 1.5v
Hey guy, in case you haven't seen it and no one's mentioned it, there's a way to possibly recover those dead ones the charger won't recognize. Another YTer called Will Work For Liberty has a clever fix for it. Good video, btw. Cheers!
Hey Jim! Yup I save them a good bit with a jump start! But since making this videos I’ve moved toward lithium batteries and energizer rechargeables !
@@DoThingsMakeStuff Just hadn't heard of that trick myself. Would've just tossed them.
@@jimketchum3169 100%
You just saved me 45$ and being frustrated! I’ve used nh for ever and they worked great till I put them in lights and found that they are not as bright as alkaline!
I hate that gotcha moment! Lol
oh im glad!!!!
Glad I came here now!! Cheers
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your review! i got a razer basilisk x hyperspeed mouse and i got stuck with batteries, is perfect solution for me
Glad I could help!
they just arive ill test them i pay 20 $ for 2 pcs
How is the output noise on sensitive audio equipment due to the buck electronics?
Nothing that we have noticed but honestly I'll take some in tomorrow and test them out and let you know if I notice anything!
Do they work well in cold weather? IE trail cam
Great video! Thanks :) Liked and subbed.
Thank you I appreciate it!!
EBL - YOU CAN'T CONTACT ANYONE ABOUT WARRANTIES! I've tried and tried and THEY IGNORE ME! I would NEVER buy their product again. EVER.
Anybody know about Keeppower USB rechargeable Li-ion AA battery? Their 18650 and 21700 USB rechargeable li-ion battery are just perfect, but not sure about the AA... Can someone test it for us? Thanks.
Looked interesting. The capacity is a bit lower that these, but if you like the brand give it a shot!
Ikea Ladda batteries are actually one of the best NiMh rechargeable battery you can buy. Watch Project Farm for the testing.
I’ve heard that. I just got a bunch of lithium aa’s I’m starting to switch over to those and see how longevity works out
New EBL Lithium Batteries - amzn.to/3dsIZtM
Has anyone seen or tried these? Looks like it might need a specific charger since it's sold with one, batteries aren't sold alone on amazon. Rating is 3000 mwh so it's still lower than most NiMh. Any Thoughts?
2+ years ago, bought elb white batteries (rechargable). They slowly die and I have been throwing one away every once in a while as they refuse to recharge. I prefer amazon rechargable. just one opinion.
What’s the best or your favorite charger to buy?
For EBL's I use their smart charger - amzn.to/3miSAX1
For everything else and for a portable charger I like my Nitecore - amzn.to/2IX45Fs
I'm under the assumption that EBL has the best charging algorithm for their own batteries which is why I decided that. That is with no information, just an assumption!
The price per ton of lithium has gone nuts!
What is its weight in grams? Im thinking of buying this for my wireless mouse
They got to come up with a new battery configurations (size standards) for lithium to optimize the technical considerations of the lithium technology. Forcing a lithium battery design into a seemingly antiquated sizing standard appears to handcuff the technology. Also, the non-rechargeable lithium AA batteries have a way higher capacity than other AA battery types. Having the charge controller in the body of the lithium rechargeable battery seems to be the reason for the drop in capacity. Why cant they just have the charge controller as part of a charging station instead? I would buy that in a heart beat. Chime in if any of you know.
100% agree! I think we're still early in adoption of this tech. I'm constantly trying to convince friends and family to switch to rechargeable instead of using throw away batteries just on the principle of saving money. If there was a high adoptions i'm sure companies would much rather make a product thats 3v instead of 1.5 so their product could run longer. But they know people see upfront price and aren't willing to spend a little bit more upfront for a long term savings. Its the Lead Acid vs Lifepo4 eternal struggle.
well, the form factor is fine for what li ion needs, simply a cylinder or flat rectangular shape. but the thing is that if using li-ion, they NEED a controller board to disconnect them once the go below their minimum, (around 2.8v) unlike other battery types like nimhs and non-rechargeables, since those won't burn up if you keep them connected and they die out. however, the boards take only take 2 or 3 mm at the end, so not much loss there. however, the physical usb port does take up quite a bit, so in theory, if they don't have it, then you'll be getting the max possible energy storage that the AA form can accommodate.
as for adopting a different form factor, the 18650 has become a popular standard for electronics switching over to li ion batteries, else they just use internal batteries with their own form factors. one can also purchase the 18650 with the integrated board or just the actual battery itself meant to be only used with an external li ion battery board.
@@carlos2004 awesome reply, thanks.
don't they explode because of the usb openings? Are they safe?
Nope not at all, the lithium cells are sealed. They don’t pose any more of a fire risk than your phone
What are you using for a charger?
Honestly, I have gone through a few recently.
This is the one I currently use the most and like - amzn.to/3NWxgGu
It handles my Lithium batteries as well as all the others. Seems to charge my batteries that are so low my other chargers won't pick up.
I've used multiple EBLS which are just ok. I had a nitecore i4 I used for years that just died. They don't make that model anymore but nitecore has a bunch of new ones.
Can you power a device through the usb port?
no its for charging only
Thanks for this👍
You got it!
Thanks for your video, you saved my life, well,,, more my wallet's life. I almost made the exact same mistake due to the 3300 mWt instead of the mAps. But I need to ask you. You were talking about audio equipment. Do you really think that the 2800s would perform well, on my wireless mic, when I make my 3 hour shows??? With of course some break time in between.
It's really important, cause my old rechargeable Duracells can't even last 2 hours, they're totally done for, they're old. But I see that the Duracell brand has dropped a lot when it comes to rechargeable batteries. In power as well as in durability.
But AGAIN... Do you honestly think, that they would give me a good full lasting performance when I have to do a 3 hour show?
Oh Yeah, I almost forgot; Do they charge in a normal doubleA charger? or they need their own charger?
I would greatly appreciate your input on this one.
Thanks for your video
Great questions. So I use the standard EBL rechargeable battery in my Sennheiser handheld and packs. They are on from 8:30am till around 12:30 and I've never ever had one die. These ones being smaller capacity I think 3 hrs is probably right around max time for a reliable connection but that is untested.
For the lithium ones in this video you can use any micro usb cable to charge them.
For standard rechargeable batteries you must use a smart charger. The "dumb" charger that comes with most of them and charges together in pairs is garbage. If you're using EBL's I use their chargers with the assumption that a charging algorithm is set up for their batteries. I also have a few other smart chargers that also charge my 18650 batteries and has a 12v car adapter.
So yes yes
EBL Smart Charger - amzn.to/3hfWVHy
Nite Core - amzn.to/32e73MZ
Those are the two I use most the time!
Thanks for a help. I greatly appreciate it. I will give them a try. But if I can't afford the EBL charger right away, will my old charger damage the batteries? Or it will only take forever to charge em? Cause I just received my new batteries, but I didn't buy a changer for it. So please let me know thanks.👍
Ya so if something needs a lot of current they probably won't work because it's a buck converter so it might not be good for sensitive electronics and you it's not the actual discharge curve it's the buck converter so it will go from full to empty and the problem with them saying the Mah is that the lithium cell is going to be like 900mah but at 3.6v I guess they could say like 2200ma equivalent or like 2750 equivalent if they are comparing it ni-mh
I still prefer Enloops to EBL. I only use EBL because I can only get Enloops in AA and AAA. What do you think is the best brand for C, and D sizes? What I have found is that if you completely drain a battery some of the "newer" smart chargers will see it as dead and will not charge it. What you can do is put them in an older "Dumb" charger for a few minutes and then switch to the new charger.
For D's I use AA adapters. I love keeping everything the same battery type and for that reason I don't use c's! I know their are C adapters but I try to stay away!
Dumb charger trick works like a charm!
Nice, glad I kept my dad's old Energizer family dumb charger kit for his old nimh energizer rechargeable batteries. Though I may need to get a new dumb charger for the lithium ion batteries (or just use my vape mod's trustfire lithium ion battery dumb charger too I suppose)
Wow i was going to make the same mistake and buy them on amazon but thanks to your vedio will not make that mistake thank you for your advice
Glad I could help
Anyone have an opinion on the Ikea ones. I really like them but hate having to drive all the way to Ikea to get more.
Lots of people think these are the best option!
The one thing that you failed to mention is that the 1.5 V batteries have a current limit. If you try to use them in something that draws more than 2 amps they will shut off. A small drawback. Other than that a nice video. The thing I was looking for was can these batteries be charged on a regular battery charger instead of the micro port? I have not been able to find this information anywhere. bob
Wow I didn't know that! But no they do not charge on a normal charger. That for sure is a downside! Thanks for the feedback and comment Bob!
Did Amazon ship just those tiny batteries in that huge box?
Thats how they roll.
well am mad its not charging i need help
Energizer makes lithium AA too
Do they!? I'll have to check them out!
These are rechargeable lithium, they have a 4.2 volt lithium ion or lithium polymer cell and a regulator to step down the voltage to 1.5v all the major brands produce a one time use lithium cell but that’s not what this new technology is. These are also now available in the 9v
“Transistor” package and “D” cell package
On the motor he says really fast but he really means is the speed it is supposed to run 1.2v is not 1.5v
I think NiMH batteries are toughest of all batteries. More cycle life, minimal harm when over discharged, very low internal resistance, flat discharge - voltage curve....
Agreed, But im moving toward LifePo4 for the larger stuff hopefully soon!
@@DoThingsMakeStuff LiFePO4 has better energy/mass density but volumetric energy density is similar. NiMH may be better if your device does not need to be light.
I’m trying to work toward 100ah - 200ah system for trailer and Mobil battery pack
Thanks for sharing your thoughts! Some of my thoughts: The rechargeable lithium batteries have a reduced capacity due to the charging, protection, and voltage regulation circuitry they have to put into them, because the cells are actually 3.7 volts that have to be stepped down to 1.5 volts. Currently, there are no chargers that can recognize this type of battery and charge them correctly, which is why all that circuitry is in the battery. The benefit is that they have a flat discharge curve (unlike an alkaline) and higher 1.5 volt output (unlike an nimh or nicd). That makes them useful where you may have sensitive circuits that don’t run well at less than 1.5 volts or where you want slightly more power like flashlights. True, they don’t last as long as non-rechargeable lithium, but they can be recharged like 1000 to 1200 times, so they more than pay for themselves. They also hold a charge for a long time. Additionally, they can be used in high drain devices where alkaline can’t. They also don’t leak their guts all over the place when they are drained or left in a device for years. Also, having a tiny cord for charging and either a wall wort or power pack makes them highly portable. They aren’t a panacea, but they definitely fill a need. I use them for multimeters and other test equipment, remotes, flashlights, and things where nimh batteries lack the necessary horsepower.
Regarding cells that are drained and won’t charge, you should try jump starting them before tossing them. Basically, take a good battery, the drained battery, and a couple of paper clips. Place a paper clip on the table and set both negative ends on the paper clip, then take the other paper clip and touch it to the two positive ends for a second or two, but no more than that. That should be enough to impart a very slight voltage to the drained cell. Then try to charge it in the charger. You might need to cycle the battery a few times between charge and discharge to restore it properly. However, if the battery behaves oddly, such as gets really hot or charges/discharges abnormally fast, it may be defective and should then be tossed.
Apparently you cannot put them three in a row you can run them two in a row but not three or more apparently is very bad for the battery in the middle that's why it dies and it doesn't come back
your amazon affiliate link's might be broken.. the one that works links to the nimh and not lithium ion AA's and the other one is just dead.
Ah thanks for the heads up. I think they. Hangs their listing every once and a while when they sell out. Which is weird
@@DoThingsMakeStuff Oh yeah, that is frustrating for sure because then you have to go back through old videos and update affiliate links over and over. But you noticed and responded quickly! I've been searching for decent lithium ion AA batteries to buy but there are just SO MANY, it gets overwhelming fast. Edit: subbed
It looks like EBL no longer sells these on Amazon. I cannot find them anywhere and your affiliate link in the description goes to a 404.
you're right!!! Looks like they are changing to these which I'm stoked about actually, I'm going to buy a few - amzn.to/3fJd3Th
Wait, found them - amzn.to/3bT7VLe
Not only is the label at trick but I purchased two packs and had two chargers.. only three charge. Still testing but not sure if it only charges three at a time or both cables have a dead micro USB cable. Anyone else has this issue?
Thats weird, No they are all independent batteries. So either dead battery or dead leg of the charge cable. Use a standard micro USB to USB-A cable and give it a shot to rule out the battery. boo thats a bummer to hear!
This also reminded me that I'm really not even using these batteries. I'm going to start using them in a regular item i replace batteries in so we can get some longevity testing in.
Agreed. I did before the post and all the batteries seem to be fine. Need to test further but like you the jury is still out. Eneloops are still my tried and ture.
What about EBL Lithium-Ion AA - 1.5V ?
I believe those are single use batteries. Little more capacity since they don’t have hardware in the top. Shoot me a link of which ones you’re looking at?
@@DoThingsMakeStuff they are 1.5v I bought them, dudnt use them yet but looks good, they come with charger
@@bobmusikk are they red? I saw some a while ago but thought they disappeared
@@DoThingsMakeStuff yes ReD, I sent a link above
@@bobmusikk weird I don’t see a link
Panasonic eneloops are the holy grail of rechargeable batteries they are in my eyes expensive around 4 to 5 bucks per battery but after 8 plus years and hundreds of charges if not over 1k p,us charges and still going as strong as the day I bought them eneloops are the kings of recharable batteries and to the cheap people thst will buy other brands of rechargeables good luck I’ve tried most brands and well you all know my choice.
I’ve got enloops as well, I like them but I haven’t noticed them being much better. They would need to last 2-3x to justify the price you’re saying. I’ve got some energizers I’m running now I like. But I’m really trying to move toward lithium AA’s which have been great
I wonder can those batteries be recharged while they are powering some device.
I read a reddit poster who did as you asked, he charged his USB C as battery while using his GPS and it fried his GPS. He had used EBL lithium usb-c rechargeable batteries. Best I could find (shrug) what did you end up going with, are you happy with it?
I found 4 pack 26650 EBL lifepo4 5000mah batteries on walmart for $20...Would that be considered [12v]?...And would I be able to put them together for a 48v 1000w 20ah battery?
I could be wrong so maybe someone smarter than me will chime in. If you put them together in series you should get 12v of 20mah battery. mah - milliamp hour, 20ah is amp her which is very different.
You should also need a BMS and knowledge on connecting things well. I know there are some UA-camrs who are killer at building batteries and they would be the ones I would ask for some help! @jehugarcia is probably you guy!
@@DoThingsMakeStuff Thanx
I have a thermal camera in which I need to put 2 of those in a Row, would these work in a Row??
Of course, they function like normal AA batteries but with a higher constant voltage.
@@DoThingsMakeStuff the manual says 3Volts, would the higher Voltage not fry my expensive camera?
@@omerkaya545 3 volts is actually what it will be. Standard AA batteries start at 1.5 and will drop down to 1.3 then to 1 when they are dead. Most rechargeable batteries start at 1.3 and taper off from there. The great thing about lithium batteries with a controller inside, like these, do, is that they will start at 1.5 and maintain that until they are depleted which ends up resulting in a very rapid drop-off. So these batteries together should give you a consistent 3v that will keep you at the peak operating for your camera until they are dead. Then recharge and you're back in action!
@@DoThingsMakeStuff sorry i ment that my thermal camera uses CR123a Batteries, i have seen that this company sold those in 3.7V and 3V
@@omerkaya545 Gotcha CR123a's are obviously a different battery. CR123a's are lithium batteries so this one is just a rechargeable one at that point.
You keep falling for marketing hype. Just because the EBL batteries say 2,800 mAh, doesn't mean they are actually 2,800 mAh. Many people have tested these at around 2450 mAh.
Sure sure, but I assume the over rating over everything making them generally even. Especially within the same brand
These seem to be no longer available on Amazon. They only have the red aa li-on batteries which are 3000 mwh.
I just checked and they seem to still be available - amzn.to/3lies5s
@@DoThingsMakeStuff yes they brought them back and I ordered a set
I've tested a few brands of AA/AAA NiMH fully charged with a multimeter and have got readings of around 1.4v??
Let em fully charge them and ill test it for ya!
Yep -- the best NiMH batteries I have (Eneloops) will charge up to about 1.45v on my Ansmann charger. Once off the charger their voltage rapidly drops into the 1.3 range even if placed in a drawer. And when in operation, the voltage drops into the 1.2-1.3 range rather quickly. That's the nature of NiMH batteries, but they have greater capacity than the lithium ones of the same size.
There are pros and cons to each, I own some lithium AAs as well, and for certain things (remote controls and game controllers) I prefer the lithium ones because those devices perform much better when the battery stays closer to 1.5v.
While the EBL NMH batteries are rated from 2800 mah on the packaging & on the side of the battery. If you were to check test the actual battery capacity by using an inexpensive battery analyzer?The actual capacity is on average 70% of 2800 mah which equals approximately 1900-2000 mah of actual battery capacity with several variables possibly affecting the results.Taking into consideration, the fact that the batteries are so much cheaper than many other brands? This may not matter to most people. This is more of an FYI regarding boosted numbers in order to increase sales over other competitors by boasting how much higher rated capacity on the packaging when compared to testing the batteries. Unfortunately, most of the Asian battery manufactures utilize this tactic. The only way to find out the capacity is to either test batteries yourself or watch several different UA-cam videos in order to find what brand of battery best suits ones needs .
Was really hoping for some test data. EBL has a somewhat bad reputation for making claims that their products can't meet. I was wondering if this one was different.
Based on the comparison their rating seems right on, just tricked me by not catching the mwh vs mah. There are some great comments below with some people breaking down the math of it for ya!
@@DoThingsMakeStuff Okay, I'll read on then, thanks!
I got these some months back and they are best used for low drain devices that need the 1.5v, I also has the EBL 2800 however when you test them and my charger has that function they test closer to 2400 - 2500mha so really you are not loosing a whole lot, sure the nimh will run longer but it is not really down to the raw capacity it is because they will continue to run all the way down to an utterly unusable voltage, and here is the flaw with the testing in this video because a motor is not voltage aware and it will use any voltage right down to zero so it might run 4 hours but if at the 2 hour point voltage drops to 0.5v then it is useless but the motor will still run and so you could say they lasted longer but did they really? when it comes to battery's they have a max and min voltage and anything below the in is utterly useless and this is the flaw with nimh they start ok but instantly drop to 1.2v and then soon after under a volt. This is why your testing is flawed as a standard mimh will keep pooting out power all the way under a volt all the time the device struggles to run and it does this till ether the device fails or the battery is utterly drained, where as the lithium ones put out a constant 1.5V and rather than fruitlessly hanging in there like the nimh to a low low voltage and lower than in processable it instead cuts them of at 1.5v when the lithium cell is no longer capable of outputting to that voltage, so for consistent output these new ones are better.
I use these for low drain devices like a PC mouse and the standard ebl 2800 run dry after or become erratic at about a month while the lithium are still going strong 1 and a half months after charged so really it comes down to application and well testing method and a electrically dumb motor is not really the way
Yup I completely agree, they are great and I use the mostly in my controllers now and they work amazing. I have had a few people comment that they don' work in specific devices but im not sure why
@@DoThingsMakeStuff I had a similar issue as i tried to use these batteries in things like LED torches / heated gloves and they failed to work properly, I think part of the problem is that they have a BMS that can only output so much current and so when a device demands more power/current than the BMS can safely provide it limits it, where as non rechargeable or MiMH do not have any circuitry or current limiting and will deliver as much as is needed even if it damages the battery
There's no way that mAh rating is accurate but that doesn't mean they're not still useful.
100% the rating is deceptive because it's in MWh instead of mAh!
KENTLI's are the best. Hands down!
The EBL Alkaline rechargeable batteries lose their charge after sitting for more than 2 months
The reason the motor ran faster with the non rechargeable lithium batteries is because most start at 1.7v
Found that EBL does honor their warrant. Sad as it it it's true.
Best li-ion (3.7v) on the market are 800mAh or 3200mWh. Your battery has 15% of the volume used for charger so i doubt that is anywhere near 3300mWh advertised. Probably 2000mWh or 1600mAh.
I don't think the 3200mWH are rechargeable though are they? If so which ones?
@@DoThingsMakeStuff I meant real 3.7v batteries in form of 14500, which don't have their volume wasted on charger and buck converter, just for reference. I saw someone tested kently 1.5v li ion and they have around 1600 mah or 2400 mWh. I think that's the best you can get from this form factor.
I just stick to Duracell and IKEA Ladda rechargeable batteries!
Still need to try those Ladda cells
I could be wrong but aren't NiMH batteries completely different from Lithium batteries? Title kind of misleading
the chemistry is different the the voltage is stepped down to 1.5 which is what makes them great. But it's still a AA battery so i don't think its completely different no.
You need a different charger. One that can charge it from 0%. That battery is fine the majority of the time.
Was thinking about getting these, I sure didn't realize that it said 'mWh'. Think I'll pass on these. Thanks for the review.
Glad I could help!
...What do you mean? You were looking for 3,300Wh?? A Tesla is 10,000 Wh.
The lithium rechargable AA's will have protection in them to cut them off discharging so when your child leaved them in a toy they wont be damaged.
Also when i get a NiMH battery thatwont charge i put 1.2v across it fot 30 seconds with a bench PSU and then drop it in to the charger and it works fine after that.
Hi. If your EBL AA wont recharge on a smart charger, charge them first in an old "Dumb" charger and you will recover them!!!
Thats what I do! or use some wire or something metal and connect them to another battery for a couple seconds. Just enough so the smart charger can see them!
When lithiums die all the way, this is what usually happens
It brings into question the tactics behind the company using such marketing tricks... For me this video tells me something important...EBL ARE CASHING in using unfair tricky marketing.... I'm shocked how gentle you are for what EBL is doing?
Well I think it was more confusion. Some of the comments below break down the ratings based on it being Lithium and voltage regulation and such. I've started using the batteries more and am trying to get a real feel for how they function.