Your comments about air transmission and 1/2 inch holes reminds me of building a music rehearsal studio in my youth. This was in the early 80's. I had studied studio design. I built the room with double sheetrock and a double fire door entrance. It made a huge difference. But at this point, as a band was rehearsing, I went around the stand alone garage. I would would hear exactly where I had sound leaks What amazed me was that I could exactly locate the sound source. A squirt of caulk and the sound stopped. So your observation of a half inch hole in a concrete wall is true. Another suggestion is a real false ceiling. I remodeled a basement and had 9 feet of headroom. I dropped the ceiling down to 8 feet with a stud, insulation, sheetrock ceiling. A variant of the staggered stud construction of recording studios. The end result is that I could barely hear my family walking around up stairs. The A/C contractor did not like the 9 inches of space to put the ducts into. But it worked.
Perfect timing. I’m in the process of building an addition. Master bedroom above mother in law apartment. Definitely want sound reduction if you know what I mean. Thanks Matt! Your videos are tremendously helpful. Been subscribed for many years.
This dude should be made the head of some housing program to build affordable reliable housing units . I just have a feeling this guy could excite the whole nation to want to be craftsman again !
There are quite a few builders that work to a standard similar to this. You only typically hear about the bad ones...we are quietly building with quality in the background! Hahah. I build apartment buildings and I Love all of Matt's tips and build to his level of standard as much as I can. He is one of the best resources for information though. Love this channel!
I’m still stuck in my ways when comes to my tool of choice when cutting during install. My fav tool for cutting insulation is a cordless electric knife and prefer “bread” blades. So happy they came out with rechargeable cordless model long ago, cuz when was corded…..had dedicated cut station that was moved throughout installing. Cordless so much easier to use and great tool, also makes short work on a turkey or ham😉
Another awesome video. I always learn something. Thank you! And I’d pay twice the amount of normal insulation just to get away from the itch factor. DIY homeowner.
Matt, Thx for the Uber Practical video of great ideas! Between the thick AdvanTech 1-1/8" subflooring, human friendly insulation, 5/8" Sheetrock and some puddy pads our Baczek designed home will be even more awesome! Cheers & Merry Christmas, Eric
Been using Knauf insulation for years on piping in the commercial and industrial sides of construction and in my opinion it’s superior to it’s competitors. Even the duct wrap insulation is less dusty.
If you are itchy from insulation, use some tape on the itchy areas to pull most of the shards off of your skin. I use duct tape, but masking tape and other types can work, too. Come back and thank me later.
With an Erv the air needs to be able to o move to the exhaust vents. How do you stop sound and still allow for air flow? What about the gap under the door?
Good question. The fabric on the wall is an air permeable mesh that’s used to make sure the insulation stays in place before or during drywall installation.
Watching you rub that insulation all over your bare skin was FREAKING me out. I couldn't believe what I was seeing wtf that is INSANE. Typical stuff I won't even touch without long sleeves and gloves and a mask. That was crazy man. Thanks for this video, awesome info, great stuff
Yes Structure stiffness is a big issue with sound attenuation. Those little holes let through high frequency sound which is easier to stop because of the low energy. Low frequency will move the whole wall, and can be almost impossible to stop at certain levels. In studio build we decouple the inner room and the outer structure, to allow the air gap to dissipate some of that LF energy. Contractors need to be very carful using "Sound Proofing" as a term. Because at a point you wont be able to. (remember the aircraft noise in one of Led Zeppelin's Songs "Nah leave it in"). MDF is a good mass material perhaps under the sheetrock. And always seal the perimeter of the sheets to the frame. Double wall if you can between critical rooms. And also Rockwool Rockboard 60 or 80 is an excellent mass wall fill. On another note, try not to have parallel walls if possible, as they create standing waves (echo). And have sound absorbers in noisy rooms, more important these days as we tend to shy away from Carpet. Good informative video mate.
I suggest a book - The Master Handbook of Acoustics (Everest and Pohlman). It's more about mass, isolation of mechanical transmission, and stopping air leaks than stuffing batting inside the walls, although that will help. The question is whether or not the additional expense is worth the STL (sound transmission loss).
Maybe this insulation is different, but standard insulation basically does nothing inside. The cheapest way I have found is to use ice and water shield. Put it loosely in the walls before sheetrock. Going over the studs also gives uou that little buffer of transfer through the studs. You can also use it in place of putty pads. If you want to go the next step, then add insulation, preferably Rockwool. You can also use the ice and water shield to wrap pipes in the wall to cut down sound in walls.
@juiceman8873 I use Grace. I am in Alaska. It acts as a vapor barrier on outside walls. And it's not an issue on inside walls. You would just need to be careful how you use it in your climate.
I'm surprised you didn't mention staggered independent studs/double wall. Adds thickness to the wall - more insulation space and more to lumber, but still cheap and effective for what it does compare to expensive alternatives.
I would rather use Roxul stone wool, it's already a lot itchy then most fiber glass. Plus is has the benefits of: Noise reducing, inorganic (yes things actually do eat fiberglass, not for food but just to fill their stomachs to make them feel full) and that it wont rot if it gets wet. But the most notable difference the temperature before each insulation which catch fire/smoke out. More fiberglass smokes out instead of burning out at 800°, Roxul on other hand wont ignite until 2,100°
I was in the mineral camp until I used it. It was so much worse than fiberglass for itchiness. I couldn't believe it. I hate fiberglass and I hate mineral wool more. The cost difference isn't justified either.
Depends I've had batch of safe and sound that stuff and another that was floppy. Manufacturer wouldn't help aside from go back to homedepot. I had some leftover from the previous batch to show the difference.
@@MBisFrenchy I agree, That is why i figured out that Lowe's gets better bags, or you have to order a stack of 12 from Home Depot online when they have it. Supposedly Home Depot online is separate from the Home Depot stores. Of the 2 orders i got from the Home Depot online the quality is better. And it's probably because what they have in the store is there a long time and / or abused
Do you use that same insulation in the ceiling .. when using spray foam on the rood deck and exterior walls ? Also .. is that permiable sheet cloth have to be used over the sound insulation?
Hi Matt have you heard about floating screeds regarding floor sound proofing? A layer of continuous rockwool or fiberglass topped with gypsum or cementboard really makes a differences for direct contact noises such as people walking.
The insulation goes through a curing process during manufacturing that removes any/all possible nutrients for pests and mold. Mold can grow anywhere that food and moisture exist, but there’s nothing in this product that can feed mold or attract pests. It’s been on the market since 2008 without issues and has testing to back it up.
I have owned custom and semi custom homes. Homes pretty much cardboard and wood. A little extra insulation here and there, why not. Lots of improvements with little costs
there is a rubber that can help with sound proofing. it is an alternative to lead sheet. it's quite heavy . mass loaded vinyl rubber. a normal roll is 100 lbs but looks like it should be 50 lbs. it's got a high density.
Would regular fiberglass insulation like that or Rockwool work better at absorbing sound? Just curious because I have a bunch of Rockwool but if fiberglass will be better I’ll use that in specific areas.
@@berkoskilandscaping4247 The denser of the two products will be better at attenuating noise. Typically rockwool is denser and a bit more expensive than fiberglass.
fiberglass is a little better for sound than rockwool according to tests that have been done. but nothing works on deep base noise not even his concrete wall.
Matt, do you know anything about Polysols or other manufacturer's sound-proofing underlayments for floors? I'm having trouble seeing how a 1/4" thick, light-weight layer of stuff will make a big difference with foot-falls, etc.
The insulation goes through a curing process during manufacturing that removes any/all possible nutrients for pests and mold. Mold can grow anywhere that food and moisture exist, but there’s nothing in this product that can feed mold or attract pests. It’s been on the market since 2008 without issues and has testing to back it up.
The insulation goes through a curing process during manufacturing that removes any/all possible nutrients for pests and mold. Mold can grow anywhere that food and moisture exist, but there’s nothing in this product that can feed mold or attract pests. It’s been on the market since 2008 without issues and has testing to back it up.
Like so many ideas the best idea is covered in first 2 minutes. Reducing wall noise by 25 % with BULK insulation and THEN ad .0025 %(or less) more quiet by plugging PIN HOLES.
a problem with concrete floors is any sound that gets into the floor can be heard everywhere . parents lived in a high rise condo. woman upstairs would walk around on the ceramic tile with high heels making clicks in the concrete . would drive my dad nuts in his sudy. so sound applied directly to concrete like a hammer tap will transfer very very well.
Sand is an awesome sound insulator. Two non-coupled walls with sand filling the void between will transmit almost no sound. The sand has a lot of mass and each grain of sand is loosely touching the next, so as one vibrates it only partially transmits the vibration and partially just rubs, killing sound energy into friction heating of the sand. By the time you get through a few inches of sand, essentially zero sound left. Also, don't forget that sound will go under and over the wall.
Not knocking your suggestion. I know it would work, but sand is very heavy. Have you actually filled wall cavities with it? How do you retain it? I would think it’s too heavy for drywall to hold it. Plus how do you get it in there? Pour it in from the top plate?
@@usmcfrommt9790 You are correct. Sand is actually used for soundproofing in some high end studio situations. But yeah, it is very heavy and it is not poured between sheetrock walls, I forget how they did it, but I think it was concrete walls. And then they floated the concrete walls in sand so it wouldn't transmit under the wall. I did some soundproofing years ago for a home theater and read about this, but of course did not do it. I used that special sheetrock Matt referred to along with rockwool and did not do in-wall boxes. I surface mounted the wall boxes and just drilled small holed for the wires and used soundproofing caulk, a messy messy goo that never dries and sticks to everything. I floated the room on silomer blocks and isolated the room so that it was a room inside of the room, with no connections except where it rested on the silomer. It worked.
Sheetrock? Drywall? That's cheap. Using a product like Quiet Rock instead, which will not be at most big box retailers, will eat that sound up. It is designed, complete with mounting adhesive, to absorb noise.
I wish he would of covered this topic more. Sound transmission through walls is one thing, but hard sound reflections from standard drywall is a very serious issue in most homes.
@@Joshua-ze6hd isn't the nrc of quietrock exactly the same as regular drywall? But you're right, these videos seem to regurgitate the same three points over and over for drywall and insulation ad placement
@@Joshua-ze6hd Yeah it's depressing because you go from really loud when the house is only studs, to super quiet when the insulation goes in, then BACK to echoes and loud once the drywall goes on.
0:34 I’m lucky to have super sensitive skin and allergies, and no way would I ever do this Matt, not even w/ “highest grade” RockWool; NOPE, nah uh….aint happening bud, but you go ahead and use as a loofah and enjoy 😂 That said, wish was able to handle insulation w/o needing to wear long sleeves, pants, eye protection, and respirator…..cuz it gets HOT, “specially up in those Florida “attics” in middle of summer 🤯🥵
Who has homes that are that noisy ? I am a bit older than Matt and my father would tell us once, MAYBE twice if we were stupid enough not to listen the first time, and then the house would be very quiet. I have never seen someone building their home talking about doing this.
Dude! I have no idea how you able to rub it on yourself like that! I used that insulation and it’s just as itchy and prickly at the end of the day as any other fiberglass. Definitely wore a mask during installation, it produced a lot of fine dust. Would not recommend rubbing it on yourself like that, eco or not.
Please don't handle fiberglass insulation like ever again for your safety 😢Even if it is "safer" fiberglass. What makes fiberglass so dangerous is that the actual glass fibers under a microscope look like tiny microscopic needles that do not decompose. Google alveoli structure in lungs. Those fibers that you can't see will get stuck in your lungs and will lodge itself inside causing microscopic scraps. The body can't get rid of it and glass is non decomposable. The fibers will only come out after you die.
@@olgajoachimosmundsen4647 They don't, they have a severe heightened risk of lung cancer. It takes years to develop we are talking 10+ 20+ years. On top of that if you get lucky and don't get cancer you will permanently experience reduced lung capacity like shortness of breath. Same goes with silica dust.
The insulation goes through a curing process during manufacturing that removes any/all possible nutrients for pests and mold. Mold can grow anywhere that food and moisture exist, but there’s nothing in this product that can feed mold or attract pests. It’s been on the market since 2008 without issues and has testing to back it up.
The insulation goes through a curing process during manufacturing that removes any/all possible nutrients for pests and mold. Mold can grow anywhere that food and moisture exist, but there’s nothing in this product that can feed mold or attract pests. It’s been on the market since 2008 without issues and has testing to back it up.
Fiberglass insulation, state of the art 1960’s…now it’s 2024, maybe there are better options? Unless you like insulation that absorbs water and provides rodent friendly housing.
The insulation goes through a curing process during manufacturing that removes any/all possible nutrients for pests and mold. Mold can grow anywhere that food and moisture exist, but there’s nothing in this product that can feed mold or attract pests. It’s been on the market since 2008 without issues and has testing to back it up.
if you really care about acoustic isolation ... mass loaded vinyl ... screw & glue to studs, then fur over them at least an inch or so. don't stretch it.
Hey Matt you're always talking about "sealing the envelope". Check out this house fishermen found floating in the middle of the ocean! Is it one of yours? It'd make a good commercial for spray foam. ua-cam.com/users/shortsmTDVH0qmgIc?si=Ixp3VJ7cvDe_TWHo
Your comments about air transmission and 1/2 inch holes reminds me of building a music rehearsal studio in my youth. This was in the early 80's. I had studied studio design. I built the room with double sheetrock and a double fire door entrance. It made a huge difference. But at this point, as a band was rehearsing, I went around the stand alone garage. I would would hear exactly where I had sound leaks What amazed me was that I could exactly locate the sound source. A squirt of caulk and the sound stopped. So your observation of a half inch hole in a concrete wall is true.
Another suggestion is a real false ceiling. I remodeled a basement and had 9 feet of headroom. I dropped the ceiling down to 8 feet with a stud, insulation, sheetrock ceiling. A variant of the staggered stud construction of recording studios. The end result is that I could barely hear my family walking around up stairs. The A/C contractor did not like the 9 inches of space to put the ducts into. But it worked.
Used the Knauf insulation in my loft. Bare hands / no mask / etc, perfectly fine, no glass fibre itch effect at all.
Perfect timing. I’m in the process of building an addition. Master bedroom above mother in law apartment. Definitely want sound reduction if you know what I mean. Thanks Matt! Your videos are tremendously helpful. Been subscribed for many years.
What, you don't want to hear mom in law gettin' busy?😂
Sorry, I don't know know what you mean. Could you please explain, in great detail, what you mean?
I used R15 ecobatt to insulate for sound around my laundry room when building. Works great. No itch for me when I did it. Pretty easy to work with.
I used this insulation and it made a tremendous difference.
Our host is looking a little trimmer and a little slimmer. Good work my friend!
For years we've been using Knauf fiberglass insulation, And it is the only one that does not itch or irritate the skin😃
Thank you so much for saying LESSEN the transfer of sound instead of STOP
This dude should be made the head of some housing program to build affordable reliable housing units . I just have a feeling this guy could excite the whole nation to want to be craftsman again !
There are quite a few builders that work to a standard similar to this. You only typically hear about the bad ones...we are quietly building with quality in the background! Hahah. I build apartment buildings and I Love all of Matt's tips and build to his level of standard as much as I can. He is one of the best resources for information though. Love this channel!
There’s not much he does that’s really “affordable”….its just different levels of expensive. He builds very high end homes.
didn't he?
I think he made some of the housing-first units in Texas
Totally fake idea !
@@hj8607 Its my idea so how is it fake ? Should be ........ implies a level of imagination .
I’m still stuck in my ways when comes to my tool of choice when cutting during install. My fav tool for cutting insulation is a cordless electric knife and prefer “bread” blades. So happy they came out with rechargeable cordless model long ago, cuz when was corded…..had dedicated cut station that was moved throughout installing. Cordless so much easier to use and great tool, also makes short work on a turkey or ham😉
Staggered studs works too
Great solution, it also prevents air holes
I used knauff and it is indeed much less itchy than regular fiberglass
Another awesome video. I always learn something. Thank you! And I’d pay twice the amount of normal insulation just to get away from the itch factor. DIY homeowner.
Matt, Thx for the Uber Practical video of great ideas! Between the thick AdvanTech 1-1/8" subflooring, human friendly insulation, 5/8" Sheetrock and some puddy pads our Baczek designed home will be even more awesome!
Cheers & Merry Christmas,
Eric
Been using Knauf insulation for years on piping in the commercial and industrial sides of construction and in my opinion it’s superior to it’s competitors. Even the duct wrap insulation is less dusty.
If you are itchy from insulation, use some tape on the itchy areas to pull most of the shards off of your skin. I use duct tape, but masking tape and other types can work, too. Come back and thank me later.
Make sure to get the duct tape stuck to your legs really well first.
I'm totally going to try this. Can't believe I never thought of it but TIL
Great video as always!
Decoupling the wall is another important step to soundproofing.
With an Erv the air needs to be able to o move to the exhaust vents. How do you stop sound and still allow for air flow? What about the gap under the door?
maybe a duct silencer
If you don't have a gap under the door then you'll need an intake for the ERV in the room
How about staggered stud framing in the wall
What’s the paper that is up on the walls? Assume it is breathable just to hold the insulation?
Good question. The fabric on the wall is an air permeable mesh that’s used to make sure the insulation stays in place before or during drywall installation.
@@KnaufNorthAmericawho manufactured it ? Where can I buy it?
Watching you rub that insulation all over your bare skin was FREAKING me out. I couldn't believe what I was seeing wtf that is INSANE. Typical stuff I won't even touch without long sleeves and gloves and a mask. That was crazy man. Thanks for this video, awesome info, great stuff
We used to put dabs of caulk on the studs to help
Yes Structure stiffness is a big issue with sound attenuation. Those little holes let through high frequency sound which is easier to stop because of the low energy. Low frequency will move the whole wall, and can be almost impossible to stop at certain levels. In studio build we decouple the inner room and the outer structure, to allow the air gap to dissipate some of that LF energy. Contractors need to be very carful using "Sound Proofing" as a term. Because at a point you wont be able to. (remember the aircraft noise in one of Led Zeppelin's Songs "Nah leave it in"). MDF is a good mass material perhaps under the sheetrock. And always seal the perimeter of the sheets to the frame. Double wall if you can between critical rooms. And also Rockwool Rockboard 60 or 80 is an excellent mass wall fill. On another note, try not to have parallel walls if possible, as they create standing waves (echo). And have sound absorbers in noisy rooms, more important these days as we tend to shy away from Carpet. Good informative video mate.
I suggest a book - The Master Handbook of Acoustics (Everest and Pohlman). It's more about mass, isolation of mechanical transmission, and stopping air leaks than stuffing batting inside the walls, although that will help. The question is whether or not the additional expense is worth the STL (sound transmission loss).
Maybe this insulation is different, but standard insulation basically does nothing inside. The cheapest way I have found is to use ice and water shield. Put it loosely in the walls before sheetrock. Going over the studs also gives uou that little buffer of transfer through the studs. You can also use it in place of putty pads. If you want to go the next step, then add insulation, preferably Rockwool.
You can also use the ice and water shield to wrap pipes in the wall to cut down sound in walls.
What brand of ice & water shield ?
Wouldn’t this create moisture problems ?
@juiceman8873 I use Grace. I am in Alaska. It acts as a vapor barrier on outside walls. And it's not an issue on inside walls. You would just need to be careful how you use it in your climate.
I'm surprised you didn't mention staggered independent studs/double wall. Adds thickness to the wall - more insulation space and more to lumber, but still cheap and effective for what it does compare to expensive alternatives.
Gonna try it out thanks
I would rather use Roxul stone wool, it's already a lot itchy then most fiber glass. Plus is has the benefits of: Noise reducing, inorganic (yes things actually do eat fiberglass, not for food but just to fill their stomachs to make them feel full) and that it wont rot if it gets wet. But the most notable difference the temperature before each insulation which catch fire/smoke out. More fiberglass smokes out instead of burning out at 800°, Roxul on other hand wont ignite until 2,100°
I'm in the mineral wool camp too. It's hard to eat or burn rock! I love how rigid it is relative to fiberglass, and I can cut exact shapes.
I was in the mineral camp until I used it. It was so much worse than fiberglass for itchiness. I couldn't believe it. I hate fiberglass and I hate mineral wool more. The cost difference isn't justified either.
Depends I've had batch of safe and sound that stuff and another that was floppy. Manufacturer wouldn't help aside from go back to homedepot. I had some leftover from the previous batch to show the difference.
@@MBisFrenchy I agree, That is why i figured out that Lowe's gets better bags, or you have to order a stack of 12 from Home Depot online when they have it. Supposedly Home Depot online is separate from the Home Depot stores. Of the 2 orders i got from the Home Depot online the quality is better. And it's probably because what they have in the store is there a long time and / or abused
Recently I had the idea of using the caulking tape between the stud and drywall in addition to the insulation
Matt, would you recommend this insulation for exterior walls?
Do you use that same insulation in the ceiling .. when using spray foam on the rood deck and exterior walls ?
Also .. is that permiable sheet cloth have to be used over the sound insulation?
Hi Matt have you heard about floating screeds regarding floor sound proofing? A layer of continuous rockwool or fiberglass topped with gypsum or cementboard really makes a differences for direct contact noises such as people walking.
Just wondering how much the mice will love eating that insulation with a corn base and caramelized sugar......
No nutrients are left in the final product
Mice are not reading the nutritional labels. What tastes and smells like food
@@tollav I imagine to get rid of the nutrients, any food-based part is basically burned, making it unpalatable.
@JasonAnderso They say that about soy based wiring insulation. But, mice seem to love Honda wiring.
The insulation goes through a curing process during manufacturing that removes any/all possible nutrients for pests and mold. Mold can grow anywhere that food and moisture exist, but there’s nothing in this product that can feed mold or attract pests. It’s been on the market since 2008 without issues and has testing to back it up.
What do you call the sheet that's being placed over the insulation?
Moisture barrier
The fabric on the wall is an air permeable mesh that’s used to make sure the insulation stays in place before or during drywall installation.
@@KnaufNorthAmericawhere can you buy this ?
@@KnaufNorthAmerica do you have a product name, if even a generic name if you don't manufacture it yourself.
I have owned custom and semi custom homes. Homes pretty much cardboard and wood. A little extra insulation here and there, why not. Lots of improvements with little costs
there is a rubber that can help with sound proofing. it is an alternative to lead sheet. it's quite heavy . mass loaded vinyl rubber. a normal roll is 100 lbs but looks like it should be 50 lbs. it's got a high density.
Filled with the metal barium I believe to add the Mass!
Would regular fiberglass insulation like that or Rockwool work better at absorbing sound? Just curious because I have a bunch of Rockwool but if fiberglass will be better I’ll use that in specific areas.
At one point he says that rockwool would work.
@ I know it would work. I want to know which is better
@@berkoskilandscaping4247 he said this is about the same price as fiberglass and I know that Rockwool is 2x more per sq ft.
@@berkoskilandscaping4247 The denser of the two products will be better at attenuating noise. Typically rockwool is denser and a bit more expensive than fiberglass.
fiberglass is a little better for sound than rockwool according to tests that have been done. but nothing works on deep base noise not even his concrete wall.
Excellent...No Itch Insulation!
The product is called kanuf insulation for those who don’t want to wait 9 mins
Matt, do you know anything about Polysols or other manufacturer's sound-proofing underlayments for floors? I'm having trouble seeing how a 1/4" thick, light-weight layer of stuff will make a big difference with foot-falls, etc.
Is this available in the Philippines? Also what other options of insulation is fiberglass free?
Try cork. It won’t mold.
Mineral wool, it's woven rock.
Brave man rubbing that stuff all over his face and arms.
What is that felt paper your using?
The fabric on the wall is an air permeable mesh that’s used to make sure the insulation stays in place before or during drywall installation.
I used green wool insulation in my new build…👍
Does the binder attract bugs?
The insulation goes through a curing process during manufacturing that removes any/all possible nutrients for pests and mold. Mold can grow anywhere that food and moisture exist, but there’s nothing in this product that can feed mold or attract pests. It’s been on the market since 2008 without issues and has testing to back it up.
What is the purpose of the non-woven fabric on the internal walls?
The fabric on the wall is an air permeable mesh that’s used to make sure the insulation stays in place before or during drywall installation.
What's the fabric for
Looks like it is just there to not push the glass out the other side?
A more breathable vapor barrier?
The fabric on the wall is an air permeable mesh that’s used to make sure the insulation stays in place before or during drywall installation.
My only concern is will the insulation biodegrade in your walls rotting over time causing mold issues in the future
The insulation goes through a curing process during manufacturing that removes any/all possible nutrients for pests and mold. Mold can grow anywhere that food and moisture exist, but there’s nothing in this product that can feed mold or attract pests. It’s been on the market since 2008 without issues and has testing to back it up.
Always thought the K was silent .
We get that a lot!
The thumbnail made me click 😂😂
Rockwool safe and sound is superior.
Like so many ideas the best idea is covered in first 2 minutes. Reducing wall noise by 25 % with BULK insulation and THEN ad .0025 %(or less) more quiet by plugging PIN HOLES.
Need to introduce your boys to a batt knife😂
a problem with concrete floors is any sound that gets into the floor can be heard everywhere . parents lived in a high rise condo. woman upstairs would walk around on the ceramic tile with high heels making clicks in the concrete . would drive my dad nuts in his sudy. so sound applied directly to concrete like a hammer tap will transfer very very well.
Sand is an awesome sound insulator. Two non-coupled walls with sand filling the void between will transmit almost no sound. The sand has a lot of mass and each grain of sand is loosely touching the next, so as one vibrates it only partially transmits the vibration and partially just rubs, killing sound energy into friction heating of the sand. By the time you get through a few inches of sand, essentially zero sound left. Also, don't forget that sound will go under and over the wall.
Not knocking your suggestion. I know it would work, but sand is very heavy. Have you actually filled wall cavities with it? How do you retain it? I would think it’s too heavy for drywall to hold it. Plus how do you get it in there? Pour it in from the top plate?
@@usmcfrommt9790 You are correct. Sand is actually used for soundproofing in some high end studio situations. But yeah, it is very heavy and it is not poured between sheetrock walls, I forget how they did it, but I think it was concrete walls. And then they floated the concrete walls in sand so it wouldn't transmit under the wall. I did some soundproofing years ago for a home theater and read about this, but of course did not do it. I used that special sheetrock Matt referred to along with rockwool and did not do in-wall boxes. I surface mounted the wall boxes and just drilled small holed for the wires and used soundproofing caulk, a messy messy goo that never dries and sticks to everything. I floated the room on silomer blocks and isolated the room so that it was a room inside of the room, with no connections except where it rested on the silomer. It worked.
Sheetrock? Drywall? That's cheap. Using a product like Quiet Rock instead, which will not be at most big box retailers, will eat that sound up. It is designed, complete with mounting adhesive, to absorb noise.
I wish he would of covered this topic more. Sound transmission through walls is one thing, but hard sound reflections from standard drywall is a very serious issue in most homes.
@@Joshua-ze6hd isn't the nrc of quietrock exactly the same as regular drywall? But you're right, these videos seem to regurgitate the same three points over and over for drywall and insulation ad placement
@@Joshua-ze6hd Yeah it's depressing because you go from really loud when the house is only studs, to super quiet when the insulation goes in, then BACK to echoes and loud once the drywall goes on.
0:34 I’m lucky to have super sensitive skin and allergies, and no way would I ever do this Matt, not even w/ “highest grade” RockWool; NOPE, nah uh….aint happening bud, but you go ahead and use as a loofah and enjoy 😂
That said, wish was able to handle insulation w/o needing to wear long sleeves, pants, eye protection, and respirator…..cuz it gets HOT, “specially up in those Florida “attics” in middle of summer 🤯🥵
Who has homes that are that noisy ? I am a bit older than Matt and my father would tell us once, MAYBE twice if we were stupid enough not to listen the first time, and then the house would be very quiet. I have never seen someone building their home talking about doing this.
Dude! I have no idea how you able to rub it on yourself like that! I used that insulation and it’s just as itchy and prickly at the end of the day as any other fiberglass. Definitely wore a mask during installation, it produced a lot of fine dust. Would not recommend rubbing it on yourself like that, eco or not.
Please don't handle fiberglass insulation like ever again for your safety 😢Even if it is "safer" fiberglass. What makes fiberglass so dangerous is that the actual glass fibers under a microscope look like tiny microscopic needles that do not decompose. Google alveoli structure in lungs. Those fibers that you can't see will get stuck in your lungs and will lodge itself inside causing microscopic scraps. The body can't get rid of it and glass is non decomposable. The fibers will only come out after you die.
How do people then survive a career of insulating if the body doesn't get rid of it?
@@olgajoachimosmundsen4647 They don't, they have a severe heightened risk of lung cancer. It takes years to develop we are talking 10+ 20+ years. On top of that if you get lucky and don't get cancer you will permanently experience reduced lung capacity like shortness of breath. Same goes with silica dust.
Bio-based??? Mold feeds on organics to grow. Does this have a mildicide? Hopefully this manufacturer tested this product from growing mold
The insulation goes through a curing process during manufacturing that removes any/all possible nutrients for pests and mold. Mold can grow anywhere that food and moisture exist, but there’s nothing in this product that can feed mold or attract pests. It’s been on the market since 2008 without issues and has testing to back it up.
So it’s agricultural waste baked with fiberglass? In a way that makes it not itchy? I’m more concerned about my lung health than itchy arms.
Building technology from Germany to the U.S. seems to come with a 10-year delay.
I started sweating from the anxiety that the thumbnail gave me. Still looks itchy. Haven't watched the video, but I wonder if it's lung safe.
Man that fiber glas tech is least 10 yers old
I bet mice love that insulation. They love fiberglass.
The insulation goes through a curing process during manufacturing that removes any/all possible nutrients for pests and mold. Mold can grow anywhere that food and moisture exist, but there’s nothing in this product that can feed mold or attract pests. It’s been on the market since 2008 without issues and has testing to back it up.
Owens Corning has had a soft touch fiberglass for over a decade. So this is nothing new.
Nothing Matt does is ever on the cheap....
First!
geeze....I hate romex
Fiberglass insulation, state of the art 1960’s…now it’s 2024, maybe there are better options? Unless you like insulation that absorbs water and provides rodent friendly housing.
Foam is toxic, so that's not a good option. It emits toxic vapors for a long time.
The insulation goes through a curing process during manufacturing that removes any/all possible nutrients for pests and mold. Mold can grow anywhere that food and moisture exist, but there’s nothing in this product that can feed mold or attract pests. It’s been on the market since 2008 without issues and has testing to back it up.
if you really care about acoustic isolation ... mass loaded vinyl ... screw & glue to studs, then fur over them at least an inch or so. don't stretch it.
Hey Matt you're always talking about "sealing the envelope". Check out this house fishermen found floating in the middle of the ocean! Is it one of yours? It'd make a good commercial for spray foam.
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