WORKSHOP RENOVATION 16 : DIY Shop Electrical Basics w/ Conduit Bending
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- Опубліковано 28 січ 2023
- In part 16 of my shop renovation, I go over the basics of DIY electrical work in a workshop/commercial environment. Metal boxes, conduit bending, MC cable, THHN wire, GFCI outlets and more!
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Another good practice is to label each of the receptacles with the circuit breaker number (from the panel schedule).
Definitely planning to do that after painting! Good tip!
Hospital standard is to label the outlet with the panel number and the circuit number. Especially when you have a bunch of panels it's a life saver (literally, in the case of life support equipment). I don't know if that's just an institutional thing but it made sense to me. P7C15 etc
OCD much? LOL
@@soisaidtogod4248 Until you spend an hour rooting around for the exact right switch so you dont have to shut your whole shop down.
I just did a quad box last week and found the tabs you break off of the face plate is actually a nut to be used with screws on the outlet, this was a great idea to me as i dont always have the correct nuts and screws on hand.
as a german electrician, american electric never cease to amaze me. this is so unusual for me i have to remind me that it's not neccessarily bad. also i love the tubes
Great job Johnny. Great series of workshop upgrades. Its crazy how different the electrical work is different from country to country. Look forward to the next video.
In sweden and the rest of europe wago conectors are standard👍🏻
Yes every U.S. electrician knows that ..
And doesn't care .. we don't use them ...😂😂
Loving this series congrats on an amazing work space!!
Just a helpful FYI to save you some money. At about the 11:25 point in the video you show breaking off the small tabs on the metal faceplate and removing the screws from the GFCI outlets. Then using #8 screws and nuts to attach the outlet to the faceplate. Actually, those small tabs you broke off of the faceplate are tapped to act as nuts so that you can reuse the screws you removed from the outlet in order to attach the outlets to the faceplate.
Thanks for that, will make adding the rest of the 120V outlets easier!
I have done some residential electrical work, but never commercial. It’s great to see you take your time to explain the process. Thank you for sharing the great content
Glad I watched this. I'm planning on some electrical mods in my garage and that dual circuit idea is a banger.
Locked down in STORMCON Charlie for the past 12 hours in Greenland, got super excited to see a new shop video
Great idea on the 2 circuits. My electrician did that for me, but I only have 2 outlets along each side wall. Mush easier for me :) Really enjoy following along with the shop build out.
I do dual duplexes as well but put 2 circuits in each box. All left duplexes are one circuit and all right are another. One thing to consider next time is showing the deburring of the conduit after cutting it.
Bingewatched the entire shop-series yesterday! Great work, and can’t wait to see the next episode 🙌🏼
Pretty nice work, Johnny! Nicely done! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Loving this series, man. ☕️
Cool to see you doing electrical. I'm about to install the Mr Cool system and will need to install a new 240v circuit. Your video today serves as motivation because I have no electrical experience
You guys are lucky to be able to do this work for yourself. Down here in Australia you need to be a fully qualified electrician to do any electrical work. We also have different power available to us, all domestic single-phase outlets are 240 volt & commercial 3 phase is 415 volts. Billy J... Queensland, Australia
We can also have 208volt 3 phase in the US in addition to 240v single phase, 110v single and 480v three phase. makes it a bit fun at times.
If this shop burns down, insurance will deny his claim based on this video alone.
@@jerishigan6567 in many places you can do the work and have an electrician sign off on it.
Well sometimes is better that way when the electricians are really qualified , in my house half had reverse polarity and nothing was grounded.
In the US you just need a UA-cam channel to know how to do everything.
Fantastic work Johnny! My stepson is an electrician, so I sent this video over to him for viewing. I have no idea what you were doing but it was interesting to watch nonetheless! Keep up the great work! 👍👍💥💥
I would not dare touch electrical work so kudos to you great content!
Still amazed that you use metal boxes and conduit for electrical. To me as a Europeaan that is just mad
You have many A+ talents! 😊
There was a lot of great information here. Thanks!
Even though electrical work can be simple, it requires a lot of careful thinking, and there can be many safe or unsafe ways to accomplish the same thing. Most DIY channels would skip this video, but Im glad you tacked it again (including following and showing the updated NEC).
If i could suggest 1 thing, i would say to purposefully mess up some inane thing so that thousands of people will comment to correct you, thus driving views to your video 😂.
Waiting for the gigantic logo on the front wall with lights and made of wood of course 😎😉
So jealous of your every other box is on a different circuit design. Well done!
Wago connectors FTW 👍
In sweden, we run gfci breakers that break all the power (most often you have another one for fridge/freezer). We also has three faze into our house so it's a three faze one.
An alternative to box offsets on EMT for those who are not comfortable with bending is to use back straps or spacers at the strap locations. This aligns the EMT with the KO’s in the 1900 boxes. Another benefit is les dust settles into the space where the EMT runs along the wall. Just another option.
They also sell offset fittings about 2" long that attach to the boxes and jog down to the EMT . For 2 bucks each they make it go fast and simple and keep the EMT close to the wall .
Glad you showed this. Now people will get a idea. On why electrical work is expensive
For sure. Materials alone were easily a few thousand dollars with all of the wire. Not cheap!
Nice work!
As always great video, just an observation, I usually see the installers put the conduit on the floor and put force on the handle of the bender, seems to be easier that way.
Great stuff. Enjoying this project. And no, I'm not jealous. No really, I'm not. Ah who am I lying to, I'm very jealous! LOL Keep up the good work.
Very well done and correct video! Congratulations.
I’m not sure why you showed a dwelling unit rule in the NEC when discussing GFCI. They have been required a long time in non dwelling locations. You could have also wired all those box locations with two circuits at each. Left one and right two. Slightly more flexible.
In my shop I ran two circuits in out 2 gang box, but each receptacle is a different circuit. The right receptacle is always one circuit the left is the other. That way I have separated power in every box.
It is important to know that wherever armored cable is cut, you should install a red head insulator to protect the wire. It fits inside of the srmored cable.
Was thinking that too
Yup, forgot to show that but definitely doing that everywhere.
Charles is correct. It is called an anti short bushing.
Coming from the UK I find it astounding that the US do electrics like they do…
I'm curious to see how long those GFCI's last before you rip them out. My inductive power tools trip them constantly.
Holy crap
Look who it is.
Love de videos
Looks great! Love the deeper boxes with two circuits each. Good call on the dedicated ground and separate colors. Strange that there would be 3-phase power into a sub panel, do you have true 3-phase coming into the building? One thing I found useful is to install a couple rectangle USB/outlet combos around the shop. Handy for charging a phone or using clip-on USB lights on any of the tools. Looking forward to the next video
Stay safe.
What's your plans with the two air compressor you have sitting at the back of your shop will you be running solid air lines around your shop?
About those face plates the tabs that you breaked are threaded to match the screws that come with the gfci outlets, installed one of those today.
Hello 👋
Test was working
7:05 Bender Bending Rodríguez
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
In a commercial buildings it better for the ground on the outlet to be facing up incase something plugged is hanging out just a little. If something metal falls on it it will hit the ground instead of the hot and neutral. Most new construction commercial buildings spec it in the plans.
I know this is true in hospitals but I would still do the way he did because I think it look upside down otherwise
Could you run a dedicated outlet for the dust collection system?
During my four years of trade school I never could get my offsets straight. Hate bending EMT! 😊 back in those days (1960’s) what you refer to as MC cable, we called BX cable. The Navy was right to make me a Boiler Technician rather then an Electrician’s Mate. 😊
I felt the same way, and they made me a Machinist Mate (Nuke) rather then an Electrician’s Mate.
How did you size your diamond back tool belt? Like the size how did you figure it out and how’s it being by your belly button when bending forward like?
Can you get electrical panels in the US that accepts DIN rail components? Because those components seem to be a lot cheaper
I'm glad to see you use EMT conduit and THHN. So many people on YT use MC for everything and it looks like crap. EMT is way more versatile too, just this afternoon I added two extra outlets to my EMT electrical system in the shop.
As the UK and EU countries are all 240v for domestic could you order the european/UK version of the breakers as will be far more common and likely lower cost? 3 phase here in the UK is 440v so much higher voltage for industrial use.
I recently built my shop and all 110 breakers had to be GFCI at $60+ each vs $7... the cost of them is crazy.
Probably Arc fault breakers not just gfi.
That's 120V /240V . There is no110V. LOL yank education.
I added a 125A sub-panel to my garage/shop. Two things I wish I did differently for anyone who is thinking about doing the same: 1) Go bigger on the conduit than you think. When doing 220, each outlet has to be a dedicated circuit, so you have a LOT of wires to pull. The conduit quickly fills up and it makes it difficult to pull. 2) I used 12awg THHN because I only needed 20A outlets, until I needed 30A.... now I wish I would have just ran all 10awg. If I would have ran all 10awg, I could have swapped one of the outlet 20A plugs for a 30A instead of having to run all new conduit/wire for ONE 30A tool.
No reason each outlet has to be dedicated unless you plan on running multiple machines at once. I recent built my shop with single and three phase via a large rotary. I have 4 50 amp welding outlets around my shop depending on what I’m doing. I’ll never be welding at more than one location and I’m the only person who will ever be working in there. Just plan accordingly and you’ll be fine.
@@Jraksdhs I guess if you're by yourself you are fine, but I still wouldn't do it for the next person. I work with another person and often run the dust collector, CNC, vac table, laser and other tools all at the same time, maxing about 120A at one time (tool rated, not actual measured draw).
Hire a skilled tradesperson.
Future proof, baby!
@@soisaidtogod4248 Hire a skilled tradesperson, says the tradesperson
looking for work.
Wow, so I just had to have a whole bunch of electrical work done in my house. They didn’t have enough electricity coming into the house and so they had to redo my entire electrical. They had to bring in bigger wires off the road and they had to replace my breaker box in order to bring it up to code. Apparently in Knoxville Tennessee, not far away from you you have to have arc fault breakers to be in code and let me tell you those are expensive!
Yes, the arc fault breakers are becoming required everywhere now. They had to install them in our new addition. I had them swapped out after the final inspection. Why? They are hyper-sensitive. If you use a tool with a high starting amperage (miter saw) they nuisance trip.
Metal conduit (as long as it complete) is still a compliant ground.
Question: couldn’t you use the same white neutral wire for both circuits if the breakers were fed from opposite legs of the main? I’m thinking the return currents in the neutral would subtract from each other which would make separate neutrals unnecessary. Or am I missing something?
The code is not applied retroactively. Once the 2020 (or newer) NEC goes into effect in your area, you won't be required to add those GFCI breakers to your existing 240V circuits if you don't want to.
A note on grounding modern tools and equipment, particularly if it has electronics involved- electronic circuits can easily fault if they lose positive contact with a solid ground. Anything from a service interruption to an expensive tool repair can result. Your belt and suspenders approach will get smiles from your inspector- they are quite used to people attempting to scrimp out any saving they think they can! It may save your life one day, to boot! It's gonna be great! FR
I've seen a few videos now of non electricians doing similar work, usually it's easy to find mistakes due to ignorance or non ignorance, but just being cheap or lazy. Not here, you look like you know what you're doing, and imo the workmanship is top quality and very professional. I'm assuming that the THHN wires and the mc cable are 12AWG. I did something similar, albeit at a smaller scale in my garage just to increase lighting and receptacle location convenience. You said that every other box is on a different circuit, but the first one has both circuits, one GFCI for each, and I think that's fine, just wanted to clarify. I would prefer to use the formed or molded metal boxes with rounded corners instead of those sharp edged ones. Otherwise, great job.
it’s easy to find mistakes so many code violatiovs
🔥🔥🔥
I know you’ve been busy with traveling and getting over being sick. But my man, I need more videos ASAP!
5:28 I believe it is code for you to share the neutral wire for those two 120V circuits so long as the circuits were on opposing phases. I.E. you would install a double breaker and wire the hots for each outlet on each side of the braker and the neutral is shared. Each circuit would then be ensured to be on an opposing phase which 180 degrees out of phase from each other. That would ensure that the common neutral wire could never be overloaded with the maximum 20A current at any moment in time, in fact if current were drawn on both circuits alternating current on the neutral would cancel each other because they are 180 deg out of phase with each other. I am not an electrician, so you might want to check with your local codes first but it might save you some wire.
This is correct but with short runs it’s just as easy to run 2. Box fill and conduit fill would be a main driver for me to share a neutral in a small install like this.
its 3 phase, so can you do 2 pole mwbc? even if you do, you have to scrap the gfi right??
Is there a reason why you don't have all the left outlets on circuit 1 and all the right on circuit 2. I think that would better serve all your benefits you mentioned
Did I hear that correctly you need a GFCI breaker along with a GFCI outlet?
for the gfci circuits, why didn't you just put in a gfci breaker and run normal outlets?
Crazy how code seems stricter then in Europe in many ways, but then you are allowed to use multistrand wire, which is a big no here, for the chance of a strand to frazzle out and become exposed.
wago - W souds like V (like in victory); A sounds like in Apple; go sounds like in gold. They are a german brand, and in Germany W sounds la v link in Volkswagen
I guess these are finally legal in the states. They're probably better but I still stick with wire nuts and tape. I should probably get with the times and start using these
@@macxgeek wago is way more versatile in different conditions, and 90% faster, wago has an entire ecosystem like, gelbox for waterproofing, different mounting plates and clamps, different distribution boxes and more. I'm not sure how many of their produs are right now in USA but in Europe is wideli spred. The competitor for wago si OBO
Unfortunately 240V GFCI requirements are starting to catch up, garage circuits are first on the list - at least in my local jurisdiction.
And 'garage' is fairly interchangeable with any interior space with a concrete floor.
_You are the ground_ when standing on concrete. So you are correct to install GFCIs in your shop.
And yea man they are not cheap. And that's not even scratching the surface of 2017+ NEC requirements.
Between GFCI, AFCI, CAFCI, and dual function - manufacturers are raking it in right now.
The real kicker, is that standard breakers have a recommended lifespan of 30-50 years.
These new GFCI / AFCI breakers are only rated for about 15 years before replacement.
Funny story, there's a lady who flips houses in a county next to us, all of the inspectors know about her. She passes the final inspection on a remodel, then rips all the AFCI breakers out and uses them on the next one. Replacing them with regular breakers once the inspection is clear. I honestly don't blame her, these new breakers are terribly sensitive despite being life saving devices.
Would it be easier in the long run to number the boxes 1 that have one circuit and 2 that are on the other just for reference?
Looks like he knows what he is doing
One of the nicest jobs I have seen from a non-electrician. You obviously did your research. Good job explaining the Delta-High-Leg Panel. I am one of those Electricians that always uses a ground wire in my conduit. The conduit after it ages and has been altered over the years, becomes very unreliable as an equipment grounding conductor, in my opinion. I have seen evidence of this many times in my career(loose fittings, corrosion, paint, grime, etc). P.s. those little tabs you broke off the metal cover plates are to be used as nuts to hold the devices. Thanks, Russ-Electrician from Oregon.
Thanks Russ, I appreciate that!
Does your Klein meter's auto off and "I'm on" warning beeps drive you nuts? I have a cl 300-something and I figured out how to turn it on without the auto off, which is too short(like two minutes long.. power it on while holding SEL) but it still beeps all the time which is obnoxious for continuity testing. Any ideas? I'm about to just buy a Fluke because it's so annoying.
where I live in Europe, we're not allowed to use wago's with this type of cable. either solid core cable of this type with a piece crimped over at the end to keep everything together. That being said, the electricals are very different in every way.
I was also wondering about using the stranded wire with the outlet push-in type connectors, I didn't think that was allowed.
When did NEC change to start requiring a separate ground wire inside EMT rather than just bonding the EMT to use the conduit run as a ground path? Asking because I have a similar project I’m starting and I can’t find any references to a code change that disallows using the conduit as a ground path.
Edit: This comment was in reference to the statements at 2:50 around the ground wire between the main and subpanels. I suppose it would make sense to treat that separately in code compared to the receptacle grounding you do address later in the video, and which is more applicable to my own projects. Would still love to have a reference.
Doesn't in between receptacles, codes a minimum, good quality work requires it. Conduit becomes corroded, gets beat around, comes loose over time. Good ground path is essential.
Dedicated ground is not required in my area either. However i experienced an energized conduit due to a piece of equipment that failed to ground. leakage voltage that would tickle but, nothing harmful. Still enough to make me run a dedicated ground whenever possible.
It's just good practice to have a dedicated ground. In some areas even a sub panel requires a dedicated grounding rod as well, not just a ground back to the main panel.
I am a limited energy electrician here where I live when running conduit you are supposed to have a conduit strap within a foot of the box and one every 10 feet of pipe. Is that not a thing there ? It was NEC code last time I had to do code update class.
It’s 3ft within a box/coupling and 10ft after that
Nice work! Someone check me on this: Don't you use those pipe benders with the curve on the floor and the handle facing up so you can use the handle for leverage?
It can be used in that orientation (for bending 90 degree bends or kicks usually) and used with the handle on the ground and the curved part (the shoe) in the air for other tasks where bending with the shoe on the ground is less convenient, like bending offsets. Personally (apprentice electrician here) I sometimes did my first bend in the air and my second bend on the ground so I could use a level to ensure the offset was even.
@@noahboyd2186 Fair enough, thanks!
The whole time I am wondering why the wall is half painted.
for the ground bar you put in, does my box have to have been grounded to. a rod already?
Check with local codes, but normally only the main panel needs a ground rod if the sub panel(s) are in the same building. A detached building would require a separate ground rod.
So can Romex be used in emt if I’m doing electrical in my metal building at my house? Or do I need to use thhn wire
Technically, but you have to size the EMT up a ton, plus it’s a pain to pull Romex through EMT. I’d definitely recommend THHN.
WHAT, someone from the US that uses WAGO. thats the wa-yto-go. Btw, loving this series. So interesting seeing how people from other countries do stuff.
I can’t believe you are aloud to do that kind of work yourself. I’m sure in Australia that all has to be done by an electrician.
Per NEC 250.118(2)(3)&(4); Rigid, IMC, and EMT are still acceptable equipment grounds
however, if use a concentric knockout(multi size knockout) on your panel and don’t use the full size hole, you need to have a grounding or bonding bushing on the connector inside the panel and tie a ground from that bushing to the ground bar.
Have a question: Why aren't GFCI breakers a thing? Just seems a bit silly we put them on outlets... the wiring from the panel to the outlet isn't GFCI protected and it increases the unit cost of the outlets
There are definitely GFCI breakers, I just had some GFCI outlets leftover from a previous job.
Why 2 gfci outlets. One would work along as it's 1st in line?
I noticed you have a Square D panel and breakers. I would recommend moving over to either a GE or a Seimens. When I worked as an electrician, I was called to work on several remodels after small house fires, and every one of them was caused by a Square D panel and breakers.
Couple of things. The raised covers are designed for you to use the screws from the device into the tabs you broke off of the cover. mc cable is not allowed to be run exposed. It still must be protected
He's installing a drop ceiling, which counts as "enclosed" for MC cable.
False. Mic is acceptable.
My dude, use a 240 breaker and share the neutral for the two outlet circuits
You can't run MC exposed where it's subject to physical damage FYI.
Another good practice when using thhn into a Wago is to use ferrules on the stranded conductor. Increases reliability.
Can you do an update video on your upload schedule and plans for the channel. I’m confused on the content your doing at this time.
The grey colored wire is used for a neutral in a 480V circuit.
So?
I would of crushed this job, you should of hired me. For not being a sparky you did pretty good job, but the ac90 to emt is painful to look at. I
American standards are weird.
In Sweden we use blue for neutral, green/yellow for ground and brown, black and grey for phase.
Over here in Europe, we just GFCI the entire panel so everything down stream can just be standard breakers.
That’s interesting. So the main service breaker (say 200amps) is a GFCI breaker?
200A 😂 most places in Europe has 3 phase supply (even domestic) and 230/400V so we don’t need that many amps. And we don’t need so thick wires. A common house in Denmark has 25/35A main fuses typically 😁
@@johnowens178 You have a separate main service breaker and GFCI here.
In older buildings where GFCI was first beeing used, you only had one GFCI for the whole breakerbox. So if it tripped, your whole house would go dark.
Today you usually section them up, so lights go on one, and outlets on one. But id still say you dont have more then maybe four GFCIs for a standard house.
Similar to Australia.
You have two options: RCD + up to 3 same purpose MCBs for a block of circuits or RCBO (which is RCD and MCB in one) for each circuit.
There is an option to get an outlet with an RCD attached if it’s not feasible to protect at the switch board.
Also noteworthy is that we split lighting and general power onto different circuits rather than sharing the same wiring for both like in the US.
Since some people decided to use only one CFGI for entire house, there are new decrees which require you to have separate CFGI for almost everything (great, now my panel is too small again!).
isn't that too many wires for the 3/4 conduit?
Damn man... Give me a call and I'll come help. I'm in Lexington, KY. I just need a bit of notice. Love Ashville
You should have powered each outlet in each box with a separate circuit instead of every other box on a different circuit. Left circuit a and right circuit b
Why not just make the outlet on the right on 1 of the circuits and the one on left the other circuit? If your running 2 pairs anyway that would put a different circuit at every location on the wall
If you do it that way you could inadvertently plug all your machines into one circuit. His way automatically avoids that unless his shop layout for whatever reason puts a machine every other outlet.
👍👍👍👍
Hey Gib 👋👋👋👋
@@bobleeswoodshop7919 hey Bob