I will not be pulling the diff back apart, Anthony. There is no need in doing so. The really cold carrier wasn't necessary. But it did work. The amount of shock to the center of those bearings was very minimal. I can assure you. They will take much more.
I remember as a kid ,the neibour mechanic putting bearings in the deep fryer, great idea . Awsome video 🎉looking forward to this build ,thanks Anthony/Juley🎉
Good morning. I have to agree with you. One project at a time. May have a large punch list of stuff to do on whatever 😮. First I’m not a good multi tasker. So one thing at a time. I enjoy finishing one thing then move onto the next. Sometimes I have to wait for parts that ok 🤦♂️ sometimes 😮 while waiting I will move onto the next thing. Start maybe finish it. Then go back to the new parts stuff The older I get the more I enjoy not being pressured by time. Whatever it is it will get done and definitely right the first time 🙏🏼. Hope y’all have a good day. Jeff sc.
You need to get them around 300-350 degrees and use leather gloves. Dad used to have a deep fryer with engine oil to do this with bearings, it'd smoke like crazy. Heat/cold is a game changer to mounting bearings. There's a shim driver tool for driving those shims in without breaking them. Usually if you're just putting new bearings in the housing, and not replacing the gears you can get by with the original shim stacks. That thing turned over really smooth, and your backlash was good, it'll be fine. And get a lubelocker gasket and the 08+ finned cover. zero leaks.
I’m glad I put this up. I like listening to everyone’s suggestions. Like throwing all the ideas into a pot,, and the next time we do this we will see what process comes out of the pot. Lol
I use a cone bearing heater when doing rear ends and have heat crayons for indicating temperatures but I don't cool the carrier. Not really necessary. I do insist on using a case spreader though. For tapered roller bearings I stop heating at around 300-325 degrees and ball bearings I stop at 250-degrees. This is measured at the inner race of the bearing. I also don't like hammering bearings on and use a hydraulic press as I don't like shock loading the bearings. Mike
I had the press set up,, so I can’t argue about shocking the bearings. I was thinking about that press when the second bearing started tough. They did react to (what I feel was) small strikes tho. If one would’ve hung up I was ready to press em.
@@AnthonyYoungblood usually I only spread the case about .008"-.010" if all. Just enough to allow the carrier to come out and go back in without beating in with a hammer. I read years ago in a Spicer service manual the approx. .006" carrier shim thickness need the proper carrier preload. Seeing as how that it much more difficult to measure I have determined over the many years of building rear ends that by adding 5-7 in/lbs to the pinion preload (PPL) this equates to the approx. .006" carrier shim thickness. For example if the pinion preload (PPL) lands at say 22 in/lbs. then when the carrier only is installed (no axles or any other components) then the combined preload (CPL) will end up being around 27-29 in/lbs. Unfortunately, quite a few that I have had come into my shop that have been worked on prior, I have noted not enough carrier preload. This is because they couldn't get the side shims into the housing without a case spreader and therefore the pinion is actually forcing the carrier away from the pinion and running further up the face of the tooth where it is the weakest. Sometimes resulting in catastrophic failure. Not sure if that helps or not but just a little more information. Mike
I like it,, we could use it for so much more than just bearings also!!! I’m on the hunt for a propane oven tho. We are about to a point where we need it!!!
I have never heated a diff. bearing to install it,I'm not saying its wrong or right but ive never had a problem with pressing them on the carrier cold.
I will not be pulling the diff back apart, Anthony. There is no need in doing so. The really cold carrier wasn't necessary. But it did work. The amount of shock to the center of those bearings was very minimal. I can assure you. They will take much more.
I remember as a kid ,the neibour mechanic putting bearings in the deep fryer, great idea .
Awsome video 🎉looking forward to this build ,thanks Anthony/Juley🎉
I was going to do the hot oil thing. I’m going to try it someday!!
When you decide to do it film it so we all can see , awsome videos Anthony /Juley🎉🎉
@@AnthonyYoungbloodbeware, it will smoke. Dad's fryer was next to the window, he'd open the window in -20 weather to heat up bearings. :)
Good morning. I have to agree with you. One project at a time.
May have a large punch list of stuff to do on whatever 😮.
First I’m not a good multi tasker. So one thing at a time. I enjoy finishing one thing then move onto the next. Sometimes I have to wait for parts that ok 🤦♂️ sometimes 😮 while waiting I will move onto the next thing. Start maybe finish it. Then go back to the new parts stuff
The older I get the more I enjoy not being pressured by time. Whatever it is it will get done and definitely right the first time 🙏🏼. Hope y’all have a good day.
Jeff sc.
Holy crap I could’ve typed that!!! Ditto!!! We are thinking alike!!
You need to get them around 300-350 degrees and use leather gloves. Dad used to have a deep fryer with engine oil to do this with bearings, it'd smoke like crazy. Heat/cold is a game changer to mounting bearings. There's a shim driver tool for driving those shims in without breaking them. Usually if you're just putting new bearings in the housing, and not replacing the gears you can get by with the original shim stacks. That thing turned over really smooth, and your backlash was good, it'll be fine. And get a lubelocker gasket and the 08+ finned cover. zero leaks.
I’m glad I put this up. I like listening to everyone’s suggestions. Like throwing all the ideas into a pot,, and the next time we do this we will see what process comes out of the pot. Lol
I use a cone bearing heater when doing rear ends and have heat crayons for indicating temperatures but I don't cool the carrier. Not really necessary. I do insist on using a case spreader though.
For tapered roller bearings I stop heating at around 300-325 degrees and ball bearings I stop at 250-degrees.
This is measured at the inner race of the bearing.
I also don't like hammering bearings on and use a hydraulic press as I don't like shock loading the bearings.
Mike
Good stuff right there!! I like the case spreader idea also. How much clearance does it give?? I plan on rigging up one for the future. .010???
I had the press set up,, so I can’t argue about shocking the bearings. I was thinking about that press when the second bearing started tough. They did react to (what I feel was) small strikes tho. If one would’ve hung up I was ready to press em.
@@AnthonyYoungblood usually I only spread the case about .008"-.010" if all. Just enough to allow the carrier to come out and go back in without beating in with a hammer.
I read years ago in a Spicer service manual the approx. .006" carrier shim thickness need the proper carrier preload. Seeing as how that it much more difficult to measure I have determined over the many years of building rear ends that by adding 5-7 in/lbs to the pinion preload (PPL) this equates to the approx. .006" carrier shim thickness.
For example if the pinion preload (PPL) lands at say 22 in/lbs. then when the carrier only is installed (no axles or any other components) then the combined preload (CPL) will end up being around 27-29 in/lbs.
Unfortunately, quite a few that I have had come into my shop that have been worked on prior, I have noted not enough carrier preload. This is because they couldn't get the side shims into the housing without a case spreader and therefore the pinion is actually forcing the carrier away from the pinion and running further up the face of the tooth where it is the weakest. Sometimes resulting in catastrophic failure.
Not sure if that helps or not but just a little more information.
Mike
I know a guy that swears by using a Toaster oven. That it heats the bearings pretty evenly.
I like it,, we could use it for so much more than just bearings also!!! I’m on the hunt for a propane oven tho. We are about to a point where we need it!!!
I have never heated a diff. bearing to install it,I'm not saying its wrong or right but ive never had a problem with pressing them on the carrier cold.
Do you mean everything is room temperature?
You could check the coefficient of thermal expansion and do some math to find out how hot you need it to be.
Well duh!!!! Lol.