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An important lesson with a Spindle Roughing Gouge
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- Опубліковано 22 чер 2021
- These are the things you need to know about the spindle roughing gouge and how to use it effectively.
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Carter & Son Toolworks makes the best M42 steel turning tools out there►
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Subscribe (free) to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal e-Magazine► www.stumpynubs.com/
Their tools hold an edge forever and are ridiculously comfortable.
How are those aluminum handles? I always like the feel of real wood….doesnt the metal feel slippery & cold?
@@markb8954 - I like the extra weight. I don't find the slippery at all, and I have a heated shop so they aren't cold. I get that some folks prefer wood. You can get just to tool without the handle and make your own handles.
As a beginner, I appreciate this video. I think I'll pop for the tool to be on a solid learning curve.
Mr Hamilton, YOU are the definitive source on all that is woodworking. Sure, there are others that specialize in one section of woodworking, but time and time again, I just never cease to stop learning new information relevant to all that is woodworking. Thank you for your time, research and informative videos plus the journal.
Absolutely brilliant, James. So clear and precise. I’m well balanced - I have a chip on BOTH shoulders 🌞
I've seen quite a few lathe videos now and you're the first one that talked about body movement.. I was given a Sears Craftsman lathe circa 1977.. I've got a lot of work to do before I do any turning...
MORE TURNING VIDEOS, Please!!!!!! Thats all I have to say ...
So clear and concise, not to mention
very useful tutorial.
The only part that I was a little confused
about was the 'supporting' the tool,
when using the gouge as a smoothing
rather than roughing tool. If I have it
right after some 'deliberation' lol,
I think I'm supposed to make sure
tool is solid on the rest and turned
slightly, engaging the lower 1/3+ -
as I traverse the spiral
slicing.
That was the best lecture /demo on how to use a roughing gauge...one I have not mastered let alone been able to use properly.Thank you!
Who'd have thought! Wow, Mr Nubs, when I was looking for ideas on making my own router table you were the man. Now, I'm starting woodturning and the best video so far on the spindle roughing gouge comes from you as well. 👍 🍺
I have watched a ton of videos from excellent turners such as Tim Yoder, Ashley Harwood, and Carl Jacobson, but I have never heard anyone describe supporting the cut this way. I have been so frustrated trying to learn how to use traditional tools that lately I've just been using carbide. This might be the key that I've been missing.
this channel is brilliant and I love it. All new turners need to understand the ABC of turning. Anchor, Bevel, cut. ABC. Not as easy as it looks. I am kind of slow and stumbled with this. While UA-cam is great I would suggest you find a local club. Most have good turners that will show you. Hands on is the king. And the best is to take a class with a noted turner. Arrowmont, Campbell, Marc Adams are all good places and are starting to open back up. Happy Turning
@@haroldsworld, yes, the ABC principle I have heard many times, but have struggled to implement it consistently. And, yes, I agree that joining a club and getting some hands-on, in-person instruction would likely be very helpful. I hope to be able to do that soon, although a real class is probably not an option for me.
@@earlmorton1216 Hi Earl, I feel I share your struggle, when I started I got a set of carbide tools, over time I have bought traditional tools. When I try to use the traditional ones I usually end up using the carbides (along with my trusty 80 grit scraper!)
Now I've put the carbides away and have started just practicing cuts with the traditional tools. Akin to doing scales and exercises on a musical instrument! For example, my last three times in the workshop were just with the roughing gouge just practicing the roughing and smoothing cuts as Stumpy demonstrated. Starting my apprenticeship, as it were! All the best and I hope you are making progress.
Thanks Dr. Nubs for explaining HOW, but also WHY!
I am a genuine newbie and everything you presented in this video is now visually imprinted in my brain. I have watched a bunch of other videos and this one brought it all together and left me with the confidence that my first spindle turning with a roughing gouge is less complicated than I thought it would be. Thanks
Not as genuine is me 😄
I just started a week ago, had been watching
quite a few vids before getting my lathe,
and still continuing.
This is the first though among dozens of
'expert' turning videos, that mentioned
the full method of how the body should
be moving with the tool, ALL of the others
just basically just 'move the tool' lol.
Thank you for an excellent & informative video, which answers lots of questions for me.
Greetings from England thanks for the Vid v educational and well delivered.
I only acquired a lathe fairly recently and your videos are extremely helpful. You are very good at explaining techniques and why they are used. Please keep up the great work. I've watched many woodworking videos of yours and they are always a great resource for methods and for safety.
Thanks for adding some turning into your channel
Thanks for share your information, it is very useful and understandable, very nice and clear explanation
I've watched a lot of "how to" videos, and you are the absolute best at explaining *why* the things you say are important. thank you!
Excellent basic instruction. I wish such a video were available when I first started turning. For you newbies, the basics taught apply to many other turning tools, not just the spindle roughing gouge. It's NOT hard, but it does take practice. So, practice!
Newbie of 9 months, my teacher tells me..move body, not arms.. same instructions from you. Seeing this has helped me so much..I am understanding abc.
Excellent rapidly becoming my fix of common sense and plain speaking cheers Mr H
Thank you Stumpy! New to turning I initially tried using a spindle roughing gouge without any real help, as in no help, because I thought it was far simpler then it really is. After several catch's the 2-1/2 inch diameter x 4 inch stub I was cutting completely departed my four jaw chuck, traversing the shop in an impressive arc before striking the garage door. Really got my attention. I concluded I was not appreciating how vital the proper sequence of events really is. Including how high to set the tool rest, properly holding the tool, body position/movement, tool position to present an accurately supported cutting edge to the work, tool pressure against the tool rest, tool cutting edge angle and pressure against the wood. Following all these steps - I actually turned a square into a cylinder without a catch, or the work arcing across the shop. Fantastic!
Exceptional explanation.
A-a-and, once again - whittled my first little toy at age 10 and now 68 - I learned something. If you'll excuse the vernacular - you da man.
All of my turning tools are either M42 or V10 metals. I do not have any of the Carter and Son tools. I have D Way and Thompson. D Way was the first company to provide the M42 HSS tools to the woodturning community. I can't really tell any difference between the V10 and the M42. Even though the edges do last 5 or so times longer, I still want a fresh edge for finish cuts.
Love everything you guys do! I’m learning so much from your channel and really enjoy the dry humor sprinkled throughout. Keep up the good work!
Fantastic tutorial, James~!! I watch many videos from some well-known turners, but your instructional approach is top-notch~! Thank you for providing these videos~!!
Good info. I haven't turned anything for quite some time. A long time ago I took a turning class with Scott Phillips at a Woodcraft store. He used the term ride the bevel when talking about a sheering cut. It was a great day and I learned a lot. Thanks again.
Once again, you provide loads of info into a compact video with excellence. I'm a ways away from turning but I enjoy learning from your videos. Down the road when I'm ready to begin turning, I will definitely be coming back to this video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, take care and have a good one. Adios! 🖐
As a wood turner. Thank you for showing good technique. I will say that more of the pros that I know use Thompson Tool, including myself. Their 10V steel holds an edge better that M42.
A couple years ago I spent time with both the Thompson folks and the Carter & Son folks at a turning show, trying to decide which brand I wanted to work with. I had dinner with Doug Thompson twice. Both brands make top quality tools. Frankly, I could have gone either way. But it was the people at Carter and Son that won me over. And not because they treated me as special, but because they treated EVERYONE as special. I spent time standing on the show floor where I could observe both booths unnoticed. The Thompson folks were polite but it was all about making a sale and moving on to the next customer. The Carter folks, on the other hand, were treating every person that walked by like a member of their family, whether they were there to buy or just to look. Honestly, my experience with the two were like night and day. The folks at Thompson are fine people, don't get me wrong. But the folks are Carter are exceptional people, in my experience. And as someone who own tools from both brands, I disagree that Thompson tools hold an edge longer. I find that the edge retention is about equal. I also find that Carter's M42 takes a sharper edge. Here's a helpful video comparing tool steels used in turning tools: ua-cam.com/video/vcM6kStHhCw/v-deo.html
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Thank you. I really appreciate the clarity of your explanation.
Totally agree about Carter and Sons tools. I have 5 or 6 and they all work great and are quality tools. I mostly do bowl turning. Thanks for sharing the info.
I always enjoying your videos! thank you!!!
Great lesson. Thanks!
Excellent. Thank you.
Thank you. Most of the presentations I've seen refer to "Supported" as an attribute of the work piece and the idea of cutting "Downhill" for supported fibers. This was a great presentation and really clarifies the difference to supported tool position over fibers.
Supported fibers is a different concept than a supported tool but is important, too. Maybe that's what you were saying, but I'm not sure.
How did you know I bought a spindle gouge today?! Lol great timing! Thanks James
Very helpful video tutorial!!! I will make sure that i watch this again before i take on my next turning session on a lathe!!!
Thanks, James! Always informative and entertaining!
Great lesson James. Much appreciated, thanks.
totally agree on the carter and sons comment. for my money they are amazing
Very informative, love my Carter tools! Stay safe!
To be clear, I am using Carter and Son tools, not Carter tools. There's a difference :)
I meant to say Carter and Son!
Thanks. I've been trying to understand the "supported" requirement, and your drawing a line there may have given me a key.
Nice to see some turning stuff
Based upon the video's early performance numbers, you are one of few who feel that way 🙁
@@StumpyNubs maybe you don't do enough videos to entice that audience? Could be opportunity for a whole series or more individuals. You my boy blue
Thank you James your videos on lathe tools are very helpful keep turning stay safe👍👍👍👍
I'm just starting out and this was incredibly helpful! 🙂
Very good advice James. Simple and concise. Thank you. Keep 'em coming👍 Stay safe. -Mike😷
You are simply....brilliant
A very good training video, Thank you :)
Informative as ever. One suggestion though, the toolrest should only be adjusted while the lathe is off and not turning. Novices can inadvertently move the rest into a moving piece.
Did I adjust it with the lathe moving?
Great video. Very good information on using a spindle roughing gouge
Thank you.
Amazing tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃
I never tried turning... But I definitely want to!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great !! I have just been trying to do some spindles, not very successfully. THANKS ALOT FOR YOUR HELP
Love my Carter and Son tools!
I learned so much from your table saw videos, that said, I turned down a chance to get a lathe because I heard that catch’s are almost unavoidable, plus seeing more turning videos make me leery about this tool, any chance you could do future videos for newbies who may want to try turning
A catch on a lathe, while possibly startling, is rarely dangerous enough to injure. You shouldn't fear the lathe if you follow a few basic, common sense safety guidelines like wear ppe and secure loose clothing.
As I almost always find myself saying after I view one of your videos, this is BRILLIANT and exactly what I needed. (I'm now learning how create consistent-diameter spindles for my 7"-long fishing lures. Since I eventually want to produce quite a few of these (all more or less identical) in each session at the lathe, here's a question: Would it make sense to give my blanks a "head start" by running them through a round-over bit on my router table to remove the corners before putting them onto my lathe?
Sure. But you can also do it with a band saw or a table saw set to a 45-degree cut.
I often use a spindle roughing gouge on a bowl blank, but I'm VERY careful to make SURE that don't let the corners catch.
When in a pinch & it's the only bit of sharp steel left, I specifically use the corners to cut into bowls & other cross-grain pieces. It's a rough & extremely aggressive way to do it, but it moves bulk waste really fast & because you know you're going in with the corner, you're ready for it to need some strength & it won't take you by surprise. You just have to remember to raise the rest & tilt the corner down just a little. It's when it's tilted up & you're not expecting it that you get those nasty catches that rip pieces out of the chuck & try to send the tool into your face/ribs. Still, carbide has done away with the need for any of that since it produces a similarly horrid initial result without the risk.
The tool rest angle is not an accident, learn to lay the gouge right on the full angle. Make sure your rest angle points at or just below where you are going to take off material, lay your finger below the tool against the tool rest as a depth stop, and observe that you keep the tool laying on the rest. You will have continuous smooth cutting at a fixed depth. Lower or move in the rest when you are tempted to lift the tool. It's easy and you avoid putting yourself off balance, to do this swaying business.
Thanks for sharing with us James, good information ! 🙏🏻🙏🏻👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👋👋
Thank you ,very well explained.
ABC. Anchor, Bevel and Cut. Good overview of a spindle roughing gouge. I’d like to see you use a skew chisel. If you get good with the skew, sanding is minimal. 👍
Stumpy, could you please do a few more lathe videos? I am trying to learn turning wood but I'm having trouble as I'm fully self taught and trying to learn from UA-cam lol... Don't have anyone else to learn from!
Please make more vids on lathe
Excellent
Well presented, important information.
Very good tutorial, keep up the great work
For those wondering what is so special about M42 tool steel vs regular high speed tool steel. That difference is Cobalt. M42 steel contains 8% cobalt. That cobalt greatly increases wear resistance over regular HSS.
thanks
Please do not try to push the tool into the spindle! That is asking for trouble. Raise the handle for a deeper cut. Lower the handle for a lighter cut. Let the tool do the cutting... pressure should be very light. Your grip on the tool also should be a gentle grip. Gripping with lots of pressure will tire you out very quickly. This is an easy tool to learn and also is one of the most basic. If you are having trouble with it check out a turning club in your area. The AAW is a terrific resource.
You misunderstood my meaning. I am not saying to push with excessive force. Any pressure would be light, but there are different degrees of light pressure. Besides, I was largely referring to the pressure exerted by slight body movement that is not parallel to the lathe. I was referencing it's affect on the cut, not suggesting it as a primary way to control depth of cut. In fact the greater context was to exert even pressure, something I said repeatedly including suggesting to use your fingers as a depth stop specifically to ensure even pressure.
At last, someone who gives correct instructions for approaching the piece with handle low and resting on the heel. So often we see the pool cue idea which makes me cringe
Great advice.
I never knew you could throw a square blank on and start cutting, I was always taught to knock the corners off with a plane or chisel. I'm assuming that was a school safety thing. Thanks for the awesome video!
You can with a spindle roughing gouge 😉
@@StumpyNubs for years I did my roughing w/ a 3/8 bowl gouge because it was the only gouge I had.
How about a similarly basic "teach" on skews?
cool video thanks for sharing
Thanks!
eric lofstrom on youtube also has some amazing tutorials with the skew. goes into amazing detail in his explanations making things very clear
Great tip/s thanks. Hey if ur feeling froggy try it with a shop vac. in ur hand so u keep ur shop nice and clean! And a 2 beer max....Rock On! ps {handicap} the cheapest tools u can find on "Ebay"!
I've been turning for years and I learned quite a bit from this.
I'd love a full turning tool series! I'll help you do the skew.
Step one
- throw that p.o.s. across the shop and then into the garbage.
What size is this gouge in this video?
Is there such a thing as a bowl roughing gouge?
Yes, it's called a bowl gouge :)
"Can you master these TWO cuts with a spindle roughing gouge?"
I probably could if I had the tools. Maybe one day...
If you really want to, I'm sure you can.
You still need an expensive lathe
No, you just need something to spin the wood. However, I do have an excellent lathe: www.harveywoodworking.com/products/turbo-t-40-14x24-wood-lathe-with-servo-motor
@@StumpyNubs Could you smooth a spindle with a skewed pass of a *hand plane?* Be careful, but it totally seems doable!
@@FLPhotoCatcher Do not even consider attempting this. Yes, it's possible (I have tried it, with a reverse grip, because I am reckless), but you need to grip the hell out of the plane somehow & the speed of the lathe will drag the iron out of square almost immediately & just mess things up. If you do lose your grip, you'd be sending a very heavy piece of metal straight across the room (or into your face if you're unlucky & it bounces). It's basically just doing what an engineer's lathe does, & those are not good for working on wood.
That said, you can cut a slot into a broom handle & insert a plane iron in there (with some extra holes & bolts so it can't rotate laterally) & make yourself one enormous skew gouge.
@@nightcatarts I think it's not that dangerous, *IF* the plane is held at an angle, up to maybe 45 degrees from a right angle to the spindle. That would mean only a small-ish part of the plane's blade is in contact with the spindle. Yes, the spindle should be *pulling* the plane away, and the plane needs to be very sharp. And it should only be done after the stock is made round.
@@FLPhotoCatcher The problem is that you can't grip any hand plane that well to resist the sorts of forces exterted on it. Any change in grain & the iron will dig in, catch, & twist it from your hands. Then it goes flying, you wreck it or the iron against the tool rest, you put a big dent in the plane bed if you removed the rest, or worse case it ends up going into the chuck. Much better to simply get/make a skew.
You filthy woodpeckers are really getting gouged thoroughly by your tool suppliers, 65$ starting price for a small piece of aluminium round bar with two ornamental G2/G3 cuts, a small knurl, three holes and two threads. A swiss turning center would spit one out ever 1.5min 24/7. That would equal around 14$ in materials and machining excluding the 50¢ for the grub screws.
You lost me when you began with "You filthy woodpeckers..." If you want to contribute, do so respectfully.
The great thing about living in the U.S. is that we can spend our money as we want without having to worry about what anyone else thinks.
You seem to have offended people by pointing out that some high end tool companies take a very high margin on very simple items...the salesman doesnt like it because its bad for business and the hobbyist customer doesnt like it because he was convinced a 65$ turned bar is special....oh well.
Marklar0- Do you really believe that's what I was reacting to? I mean, I literally quoted the part of his comment that was a problem for me. It had nothing to so with his objection to the cost of a tool handle. I find your comment perplexing.
this is a comment to see if you read it or not
I didn't read it because I thought it was rude of you to give me homework.
@@StumpyNubs fair enouff
i have never found a roughing gouge that will square a 4 corner square without it not bouncing and tearing the wood out of it,,not cutting it reguardless of how much you sharpening it,,,,nornmally i use a bowl gouge and start on the end and come across with it,,,so much easier,,,