How To Build Circuits On Stripboard or Veroboard
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- Опубліковано 25 жов 2023
- Learn how to easily build electronic circuits on Stripboard or Veroboard. In this video we build a simple 555 Timer based LED flasher circuit on an easy to use alternative to Printed Circuit Boards or PCBs. Great for prototyping or making one-off circuits that are easy to make and reliable. Learn the basics of soldering and using a solder sucker as well as some basic troubleshooting techniques with a multimeter. Stripboard circuit building tutorial. Soldering circuit boards for beginners.
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I'm dyslexic, and I find it impossible to use conventional PCB layouts when prototyping my designs. This method looks extremely promising. The smooth, cool, informative presentation and usefulness of the content have earned my subscription. Nice work!
Hey Shawn that's great. I'm glad you found the video useful!
i like how you not only describe, how to use stripboard, but also the common practices when getting into soldering.
am new to hardware components and your video is extremely informational.
keep up the great work!
Thank you so much! I'll do my best :-)
really good explanation for somebody who last dealt with this way back at school and never really understood circuits back then. Thank you. Subscribed and on my "reading" list for my own work-related training.
That's great to hear! Thanks for the feedback!
In India this type of stripboard normally not available... So i only use high quality double sided prototype board... I also have some this type of dotted board... One thing i learn from this video is this type of board is more convenient to make prototype of any circuits very quickly and easily...
Subscribed... Thanks and really great video
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
Very easy to follow, great camera work, and explanations. Thank you brother.
Thanks - you are very welcome!
This is an awesome tutorial. The explainations, camera work and drawings make it very easy to understand. Thanks buddy- you’re a very natural teacher.
Wow thanks! That's very kind of you to say that!
Great job, brilliant tutorial, many thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Amazing guide, as a beginner, this explained a lot of my questions. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! You are very welcome!
Excellent tutorial. I learned a lot of great tips on soldering. I'm an electronics novice and been having difficult with soldering. This helps a lot. Thank you!
Thanks @fritzlausier7053! You are very welcome.
Outstanding. Such an enjoyable watch. Thank you
Thank you very much! Glad you enjoyed it!
Great work, amazing explanation with demonstration. keep it up. Thanks.
Thanks, will do!
Thank you Soo much.
This Video was really helpful
I am now confident that i can make my first circuit on stripboard.
Love from Pakistan ❤️
Hey that's great! Thanks for the feedback!
Man, I learn alot of tips from this Video! Thx
Jeff W Waldrop --> Louisiana😀
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great presentation and content! thanks a lot!
Thanks! You are very welcome!
Great video! Your type of content is much appreciated! Sending you a Big Thank You from Switzerland :)
Thanks Alan it's great to hear such positive feedback!
Very well done ... thanks a mil!
Glad you liked it!
This was a really good video, it helped me a lot.
Thanks Figgy!
Normally, I never watch an entire tutorial video, but in this one, I was as focused as if I were watching a very catchy movie! I didn't know much about soldering and had skipped through a few videos before. While planning my Vero Board layout, I already watched your other video, which was very useful and informative! Again, this video helped me a lot, and I feel ready for my first soldering session! Keep on making such great content!
But I'm curious-did you intentionally misplace the cable for Pin 1 to show us how to fix such things? If so, that's a clever move!
Wow - Thank you for your very kind comments! I'm so glad you are enjoying the videos. I intend to make some more very soon and your feedback is very encouraging. Regarding the error on pin 1 - that was actually a genuine mistake but I am glad it happened because it gave me an opportunity to show how to fix it and also to show that anyone can make a mistake - not just beginners!
thanks for the usefull info
Glad it was helpful!
Hi, just curious as to why you decided to add a transistor to drive the LED since a 555 can supply a 200mA of output current.
That's true - it was really only put there so that I could show how to solder in a larger range of components.
sir what is that program where you show your circuit it might come handy for a logic design assignment im having currently
Hi, the one I used to draw the circuit diagram can be found here: app.diagrams.net/
Can be good 'near-finished' tip to check that the resistance between Vcc and Gnd of any ICs in the circuit should be some relatively high value and certainly not near short.
That's a great tip - Thanks!
one more like for 555! Thanks for the good, quality information and video. I definitely enjoyed it.
That's great!. Thanks for the feedback!
I hate using Veroboard, but I have been using it for 50+ years. Prior to that I used tag board, valves, and a bunsen-burner-heated lump of metal that was called a soldering iron (Dad used this to build wirelesses in the '50s, and a TV in the early '60s).
What I want is a module in KiCAD or equivalent that would produce the perforating and wiring diagram.
Yes that would be a handy module all right. I'd say you and your Dad must have made some interesting circuits!
is there any way to fix a track cut on the stripboard that wasn't supposed to be there?
Yes there is - You can insert a piece of wire to bridge the gap similar to the way you might insert a resistor or you can solder a piece of wire to the damaged strip like I do here ua-cam.com/video/GHtCEed583w/v-deo.html
I hope that helps 😀
I know of breadboards, and proto boards, but not strip boards, and the flexibility they can provide. This was very informative. I had never seen the tool you used to erode the copper strip to avoid a short circuit. In the case of removing some of the copper strip, you could have verified that the removal was successful by using the continuity mode on the multimeter, right?
Yep that's right continuity mode is great for checking that. Stripboard is really handy for small to medium sized projects and doesn't require any special equipment. Glad you liked the video!
What are suitable wires for projects like this? I always used ethernet UTP cables in the past. They are easy to cut by accident (now i have better wire stri per), they heat up fast and insulation can easily melt which makes them literally painful to use. Also half of wires is white cause color band may be at the wrong side.
Hi @pavelperina7629, I use 0.26 mm² Equipment Wire, 23 AWG, 1/0.6 mm with a solid core. For wires that need to be able to bend without breaking too easily I use 22AWG stranded wire instead of the solid core wire. I like the way you use UTP though - Great way to recycle bits of old cable. Hope that helps
Very Nice Video! What Software did you use for the Stripboard Layout?
Thanks!. The software is called DIY Layout Creator. I made a video about the basics of how to use it which you can view here: ua-cam.com/video/mzje3eHqi2E/v-deo.html
To download it visit the developer's page at github.com/bancika/diy-layout-creator/releases
may I ask why are the circuit diagram and the actual object in opposite directions?
That's a good question. Circuit diagrams are often drawn up to make the function of the circuit easier to understand but often do not show the actual physical layout of the chips and other components. In the circuit diagram used for this video the transistor and LED are shown on the right side of the diagram and are connected to pin 3 of the 555 chip. However, pin 3 on the 555 chip is actually on it's left side and so it makes sense to locate the transistor and LED on the left side when we are designing the layout of the circuit. The great thing about stripboard though is that if two or more components are soldered into the same copper strip they are then connected together regardless of which side of the board they are on. So I could have placed the transistor on the right side of the board and it would have worked just as well because what is important is that it is connected to the right copper strips. Hope that helps explain it better.
Where you get one of them, track tools?
Hi Michael. They are called Stripboard track cutters. You can buy them from RS-Online here: ie.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-milling-equipment/0543535?gb=s
A 3mm or 1/8th inch drill bit for drilling metal will work just as well though - and probably a bit cheaper.
What temperature is your soldering iron set at? What is the diameter of the solder? Why didn't you use a soldering paste before soldering? You can tell I'm new to the hobby. Thank you! I've learned a lot! Greetings from Chicago! Cheers, mate!
The soldering iron I use in the video is made by Antex and is one of the 25 watt models. The tip is 2.3mm in size and the temperature is around 370 to 390 degrees celcius. I use leaded solder because I find it easier to work with but if you are using lead free solder the soldering iron temperature should be about 400 degrees C. I didn't use solder paste or Flux because the solder wire usually comes with some inside it. Applying a little extra Flux to the copper strip first can make things a little easier though. Always make sure the copper is clean and shiny before attempting to solder otherwise you may find it hard to get the solder to stick to it. You can use a pencil eraser to clean the strip board first before you solder if it is looking a bit dull. Have fun!
@@teksparkz thank you for all the help!
Your solder looks a little chunky. I use 0.032" (0.8mm) or anything near 1mm. You get more control over the solder and 0.1" (2.5mm) spacing.
I did a circuit using a breadboard layout stripboard 3 power rails, 5 pin vertical, 2 pin centre vertical, and cut away the bottom side as I was using MOSFETs and not ICs, so, extra board was not required. It was a RGB MOSFET controller as the micro-controller cap around 40mA and each LED pulls 20mA and it was a Race Drone triple 5050 LED strip. Power requirements jumped from 60, 120, 180mA depending on colour activation (White to Red, Yellow, Green, Cyan, Blue, Magenta). Board was 1" x 1.5" with 16 passives, 12 jumpers, 6 MOSFETs, 3 headers, or 86 of the 150 holes used.
Your design 2" x 1.5" with 6 passives, 6 jumpers, BJT(optional), Timer IC was spaced out quite a bit, or 37 of 300 holes used. I may have shrunk it down to quarter of the size. You can stand resistors up or run them diagonally, plus cut some strips to make a tighter design like on a limited breadboard. You are building simple design but I would not want to buy the plastic project box to toss it into. Size is money in the hobby.
Yes you are right, 0.8mm gives more control but I didn't do too bad a job with the 1.2mm solder all the same ;-). That project you built sounds cool - you did a great job of reducing it down to a really small size. I could have done something similar but I wanted to keep the design relatively simple as the video is really aimed at beginners. I think that once people get the hang of the technique they will probably realise they can reduce the size down a bit more themselves, but thanks for the tip!
hello, how can i ccontact you
With this kind of stripboard you can place parts much more efficient, by moving them more to the middle. The board will be 50%.
You are absolutely right!
How to connect ammeter on stripboard ??
Good question! In order to measure current the ammeter has to become a part of the circuit - i.e. current has to be able to flow through it. So you would have to take out one of the jumper wires and connect the ammeter in its place. Once you have measured the current you can then replace the jumper wire. Not as convenient as solderless breadboard but possible.
Maybe you should remove the metal alligator clip at the transistors side befor testing the circuit. Looks like it can accidentically short the copper lanes...
Good point - Well spotted!!
What is the name of this cercuit??
Hi, it is a 555 Timer based LED Flasher circuit, where the 555 is working in astable mode.
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Good video but it looks like you're not using fume extractor. You should, because you're literally breathing in lead fumes and other stuff from flux.
You are absolutely right! Regular exposure to solder fumes may lead to the development of asthma (which I mention at the end of the video). Normally I do use one but it is quite noisy so I turned it off for the purpose of making the video. I made sure to work next to an open window though and kept the door open too to create a draught. Thanks for the tip!
So helpful thank you so much for going into the full process! This was a huge help man i love you 😭🫶🏻
You are very welcome! Thank you too!