This is a great video and a must-see for anyone who is getting into pedal building. I’ve been building pedals off and on for some time. If I may, I’d like to add a few things: When you plan to build a project that has hard-to-find parts, try smallbear electronics. They specialize in serving DIY pedal makers. When buying parts from anybody, buy extra parts if possible. It seems that when I drop a resistor on the floor, it disappears, never to be seen again. I’ve built up a supply of frequently-used components. In some cases, I have had most of what I need already on hand. One last thing: I’ve read that some components sold by Tayda are fakes - such as J201 transistors. I personally have never experienced that. Even if true, it is unlikely that it is Tayda’s fault. The problem likely is the supplier. I bought a $25 component tester, which I use to test certain components before installing the part. Again, the video is great. I subscribed because of it.
I decided to to start building pedals. There are 3 or 4 videos I downloaded on a flash drive. This is my #1 video on learn to building pedals. Thank you, thank you very much... 😊
I'm just now getting over the beginner hump. Please, don't give up. It's really a lot to take in but I promise you if you're like me, once you start to gain a more fundamental understanding of this crazy ocean of componentry, it will be so rewarding and you'll never have to buy another pedal again. It's such an incredible feeling. Almost feels like you found a cheat code hahaha Edit: this is hella old nvm lol
This is a fantastic video. I was caught in the quagmire of DigiKey product shopping, and navigating capacitors was an absolute slog of figuring out what would be applicable for the pedal I'm designing. I've heard of Tayda but assumed it would be more of the same, but it looks much more user-friendly. Can't thank you enough... this will save me hours of combing over data sheets.
I've had it take pretty long to to figure out what variant of each component to get from Mouser. Another thing that adds significant time to a project is figuring what parts I already have on hand and which ones I need to buy for a project. I'd love to find a free parts management program that could keep an inventory of my parts, generate a shopping list from a bill of materials for a circuit, and subtract the parts from my inventory as I use them to build stuff.
Thank you for this excellent video. Just made a page of notes and feel much more prepared for my first pedal build from scratch. Only thing not mentioned I need to figure out is what kind of wire I need.
One pointer I’d like to add is READ the PIN SPACING (mm) you can’t tell from the pics how big the caps are so I’ve ended up with a few gigantor WIMAs that are like 1”x1 1/2”x 1/2” because I was trying my hardest to use WIMA and they were the only ones available
This is great. Just started building kits, and have used Tayda for most part orders, so this advice and info only improves what I buy and why I buy or use it. Thanks. Wish I'd seen it a week ago before my last order. :) Next time!
Cool Vid, I found this vid because I was trying to find a vid which talks about what jack I need for my pedal, which I want to convert from just a 9v battery user to a pedal I could plug into my pedalboard and not have to use 9V batteries
This is awesome. I just built a simple two-button foot switch for my amp and I'm looking at building pedals. I was just trying to make sense of the different types of capacitors, resistors, etc and found this video. Thanks for clarifying some of this for me.
@@TheToneGeek if the box style Polyester caps are not available, is it ok to use the Mylar caps that are chicklet shaped? My understanding is they are basically the same just a different form factor?
Is it true that higer the value for resistor in watage the less noisier it is ? speculating here … for example in place of high importance for noise as erlier in chain you could put 1w instead of 0.5w … using carbon resistor magic could be usefull 2w resistors in pedal
The signals and power is a combination of voltage and current. 9v pedal designs have such a low voltage signal, the data sheets suggest there shouldn't be much difference in "shot noise" that I think you're referring to. In tube amps where voltages are much higher, that's when the spec or the resistors do make an impact and yes, the higher wattage typically means less shot noise (so lower noise floor). 2w resistors could be very large but I'd definitely love to see it done! I think fuzz circuits could be fun with large resistors
Considering how diodes are a thing these days (think of Klon and KOT) would love a video like this about different choices there, even perhaps about putting them in sockets to test them in a circuit.
If you build a pedal with the same layout same components just used old version of those same components found from junk like old keyboard tvs etc will it sound the same as a pedal built using real boutique version of the same components
The main problem is that old components can be out of specifications due to age. And it makes troubleshooting a nightmare. Most of the time it is not worth it to salvage old components instead of buying new ones.
Howdy partner, I was wondering if you had any insight into knowing which DC power jacks are center negative? I bout some in the States and they were center positive (did not know that there would be a difference).
I feel like it's all in how you wire them? I'm going to guess the metal DC power jacks are intended for center positive but I could be surprised. Stick with these if you can! lovemyswitches.com/categories/power-stuff/dc-jacks.html
@@TheToneGeek Thanks for the reply, I Was just curious because the instructions for my kit said that they recommend center negative, and then when I was looking on Amazon there were so many people saying "this is the opposite of how they are in "xyz" (as far as center negative/positive go), so I just wanted to double check. Thanks for your help, it is greatly appreciated.
@@jordanfreeman4170 that's good to think this one through. It's important so good job! Yes, boss introduced the center positive design to work with battery switching long ago. This quickly became standard in the pedal world where you have battery and external power functionality in the same product. Just make sure the jacks you get are plastic and not metal casing (causing the outer positive to ground against the chassis ⚡⚡) you got this!
There usually is a second number on the cap and that is the voltage. It's usually a value that is shared across most cap brands like 6/10/16/20/24/35/etc. As for on the schematic, you need to sorta learn how to read the schematic as far as what is for power or signal
I loved this video! It provides a bunch of insight to the different kinds of parts and their specific uses. I am actually looking into make the 6-band EQ that PedalPCB sells, but being a Bass Player I want to actually START the frequency control at 32hz... looking at their schematic it looks like they are using a version of the EHX graphic EQ but I don't exactly know where I might be able to find a chart of what caps to use for what frequency and such. It looks like the capacitors on the frequency band circuits are the main thing that change and it would appear also as you go up the octave the capacitors double in "size". I also see on the schematic that the 100hz band doesn't utilize an IC but uses the same capacitor as the 400hz band and a super small resistor. Not sure where I am going with this, but is there a point in the frequency spectrum you HAVE to start using an IC or what purpose does the IC serve when controlling the frequency?
No it doesn't. People need to learn basic electronic theory. Ohms law. Transistor types, biasing transistors. Learn more theory. If people take a few months to learn the basics then they wouldn't need to buy kits. They read a schematic or they play around. Resistor size doesn't matter. Use half watt, especially on breadboards then you can use them more than once. This guy has no clue
Thanks Ryan. I’ve enjoyed all your videos and they have inspired me to start building my own pedals. One thing I don’t remember you covering is what type of wire to use. Solid core or stranded, gauge, covering (silicon, pvc, or?). And sources for the single wire and ribbon cables. Thanks again. Ron
Hi Ron!! That's great about your new hobby and thank you for your kind words!! You're absolutely right I can't believe I missed about wires 😮 I like stranded wire. My favorite stranded wire is tubedepot.com/products/22-ga-tin-plated-aerospace-grade-tefzel-wire and for ribbon cable I get from Amazon. It looks like my original one I bought is out of stock but there is a few alternatives like this one smile.amazon.com/dp/B08435GF42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LOmCFbVMFB5D1 Let me know if you have any more questions.
hey ryan,I've bought a tube screamer from tayda elec. and have 2 parts that don't fit,C5 and C6,(220n)they are too wide.I've tried to get an answer from them but nobdy has gotten back yet,can you help me out?THANKS Craig Lessard
Great question... It's one of those things like Ford vs Dodge trucks.. they both get you from point A to point B, but some mechanics prefer one over another. In this case with WIMA vs generic, I trust the WIMA brand a bit more because of their reputation and broad product catalog. I personally like that they offer tight tolerance options within product categories so spec sheet wise, they seem to put care too. I know that doesn't always translate to audible sound difference, but I've never had an issue to date with WIMA (albeit, it's mostly what I use so I don't have much experience with other brands). Great question! Hopefully my opinion helps
Great video! Appreciate the recs on the tayda site. Got my eye on a pedal pcb that is out of stock and once it comes back in I'll know how to source. After building from a kit I see the sourcing to be the next step and a vastly better value!
I'm not sure what happened to Tayda.. I used to buy from them some years ago... but from one point in time, they started to offer only DHL Shipping (to Brazil), which brings two big problems: the shipping cost is about the same price as the products themselves (for my case); and 100% of what is DHL shipped is taxed by our customs.. and the taxes makes the costs double... i.e., final price is four times what I used to pay (some years ago, I used to pay from 5-10 USD for shipping, and no taxes). And so far, I could not find a good supplier abroad as Tayda.. I do have some locals, but none of them have such a friendly site and a comprehensive inventory...it is a pity
In my experience, tayda components have come a long way since I started building ~10 years ago. Specifically, the leads on their resistors were very thin but are now the same diameter as you find on mouser. They also started offering Panasonic and other quality brand caps and Alpha footswitches. The only thing I may be cautious of is the transistors and more expensive op amps. Having a good way of testing these components is best if you're building in bulk. I compared taydas OPA2134PA with a genuine one from Mouser and it was very obvious on my scope that the Tayda OPA2134PA was NOT a rail-to-rail design. I had only a few of their PCBs and they seem fine. Hope this helps!
What happens if the resistors are higher than 1/4W? I ordered some for a build but wasn't paying attention to their power rating since the build doc never specified a rating.
Thanks for the helpful info. I've done work on my amps, but never built a pedal. I have a BossTone clone kit that I'll be building soon. It came with metal film resistors, but I wanted to use carbon film like Koa Speer, so I ordered all resistors in that. Supposedly Kiwame and Koa Speer are the same. What is the best carbon film you recommend? Some state Xicon is the way to go ....
I have found that in most pedals, especially overdrive or distortion, the metal film works best for a low noise floor. Does it make a huge difference? Not really, but the cost is nearly the same, so I use metal film pretty much for everything.
I'm just starting building pedals and this helped a lot! If the document of the PCB doesnt mention the kind of resistor, like 1/4, should i pick that value anyway?
Hi Victor. Depends what your goal is. For faithful recreation of a pedal, finding a gut shot of the original and using the same component type in the same location will be helpful there. You're right to say that capacitors is a perfect place to start for modding. Watch out for MLCC though as there are different grades. C0G/NP0 will be a better sonic choice over the more common X7R because of the linear temperature coefficient. High quality (WIMA) box film polyester capacitors is even better yet for audio applications. Great question!
@@TheToneGeek a bit late to comment, sorry 🙂 The big difference between C0G and X7R in audio applications lies not so much in the temperature coefficient, but the voltage coefficient. X7R capacitance changes with voltage, so if you use them for AC signals, the capacitance will be modulated. They also tend to be microphonic, especially the leaded versions. C0G tends to be rather expensive for larger values.
@The Tone Geek dude. You should at least know what you're talking about. These are beginners looking for help. Amazon electronics kit is all they need. You gloss over so much it's criminal. I'm not a troll, I'm disappointed.
@@jstro-hobbytech no idea of what you're talking about, but this video was what made possible for me to build my first pedal; I used this guide to buy from Tayda and I'm 100% satisfied with it! :)
@Rodrigo Andrion was it a diy kit or a pedal from schematic? My point us you need to learn certain things about electronics and such which make it easier to get into it. I teach guitar, coding, electronics, embedded iot.
Tayda hasent had coupon codes since you made this video. used to get them all the time. wont even update their website. but still are about the cheapest prices around
Yeah I noticed this too. I think once COVID hit they stopped offering coupons but I don't think it's really needed with their prices so low already and quick shipping
A few years ago there was some questionable products (multiple complaints about their charge pump ICs and resistor lead thickness) however they have really stepped their game up and I'm very happy with their quality now and confidence in authentic parts. Once and a while I'll get an odd resistor value of their old stock and it's immediately recognizable as flimsy but that's very infrequent now.
Awesome video! I'm new to this. Just bought my first clone kit. I was looking at getting a Weller soldering iron kit Is that a good brand? Also looking at pcbs at the exact same site too! Wow this video was meant for me! You have a new subscriber
@@TheToneGeek I would agree with the PedalPCB version being close, but with the two Aion output stages, you're likely going to get a near Morning Glory (if choosing the JFET option) or a slightly warped half KOT. Opamp choice between all 3 (original BB, MG and KOT) are different, but the TL072 is meant to be in the BB, not the two most likely outcomes mentioned above. Maybe it won't matter, but personal opinion of that isn't really an honest answer. Don't get me wrong Aion have some great ideas, but when they say 'based on', they often mean it.
@@billymiller3249 oh no! Really? I ordered from them yesterday. I know they said they are taking a break for Chinese new year. Maybe that has something to do with it? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
i have built 3 pedals and they do not work i know what risitors transistors are BUT they do not work all of the pedale i bought came from china and germany .. with not so good instructions
I don't get why I EVER should select a carbon film resistor over a metal film one. The result can only be worse (more noise, higher tolerance). Is the idea to make the circuit as bad as the original ?!? The price difference is too small to play a role here ....
Bingo. Yes, it's just to replicate an original. In pedals, they don't matter as much higher voltage and shot-noise introduced more with carbon film over metal too
just so you know its WAAAmpler like WAH pedals. good video though for people trying to learn. But for everyone watching, WIMA is not the best. Not by a long shot. There is literally NO difference between a WIMa and the cheaper film caps. WIMA are actually usually worse with worse tolerances. And they sound IDENTICAL.
This is a great video and a must-see for anyone who is getting into pedal building. I’ve been building pedals off and on for some time. If I may, I’d like to add a few things: When you plan to build a project that has hard-to-find parts, try smallbear electronics. They specialize in serving DIY pedal makers. When buying parts from anybody, buy extra parts if possible. It seems that when I drop a resistor on the floor, it disappears, never to be seen again. I’ve built up a supply of frequently-used components. In some cases, I have had most of what I need already on hand. One last thing: I’ve read that some components sold by Tayda are fakes - such as J201 transistors. I personally have never experienced that. Even if true, it is unlikely that it is Tayda’s fault. The problem likely is the supplier. I bought a $25 component tester, which I use to test certain components before installing the part. Again, the video is great. I subscribed because of it.
Great feedback!! I'm going to pin your comment. Stop by anytime 😎
I decided to to start building pedals. There are 3 or 4 videos I downloaded on a flash drive. This is my #1 video on learn to building pedals. Thank you, thank you very much... 😊
@@bbarnhillable awesome!! Wow that's such a an honor! Enjoy your new hobby! ⚡
@@TheToneGeekThanks. I shall indeed. Having trouble w/ Wampler. Trying to get the Parthenon circuit board.
I'm a complete newbie at this and it's a bit overwhelming. This really has helped me to navigate buying my own parts.
Glad to help! Happy building!
I'm just now getting over the beginner hump. Please, don't give up. It's really a lot to take in but I promise you if you're like me, once you start to gain a more fundamental understanding of this crazy ocean of componentry, it will be so rewarding and you'll never have to buy another pedal again. It's such an incredible feeling. Almost feels like you found a cheat code hahaha
Edit: this is hella old nvm lol
This is a fantastic video. I was caught in the quagmire of DigiKey product shopping, and navigating capacitors was an absolute slog of figuring out what would be applicable for the pedal I'm designing. I've heard of Tayda but assumed it would be more of the same, but it looks much more user-friendly. Can't thank you enough... this will save me hours of combing over data sheets.
Awesome!!!! I'm so happy you fast tracked your component searches. Tayda has come a long way. I appreciate your generous support!
I've had it take pretty long to to figure out what variant of each component to get from Mouser. Another thing that adds significant time to a project is figuring what parts I already have on hand and which ones I need to buy for a project. I'd love to find a free parts management program that could keep an inventory of my parts, generate a shopping list from a bill of materials for a circuit, and subtract the parts from my inventory as I use them to build stuff.
Thank you for this excellent video. Just made a page of notes and feel much more prepared for my first pedal build from scratch. Only thing not mentioned I need to figure out is what kind of wire I need.
I personally like 22ga but 24 will work too. Stompboxparts has precut wire that makes things very easy to build when you don't need to strip each wire
great video. i am going to do my first build using PCB from pedal pcb, and electrical from tayda
Awesome! Best of luck!
@@TheToneGeek thanks again for the video. when buying my ceramic capacitors should i go for the monolithic from vishay or just the cheap discs??
@@ryanmelvey8764 I've had better luck with the monolithic. The cheap discs can be microphonic however I don't think I've come across one that is
@@TheToneGeek awesome. thanks for your help!
One pointer I’d like to add is READ the PIN SPACING (mm)
you can’t tell from the pics how big the caps are so I’ve ended up with a few gigantor WIMAs that are like 1”x1 1/2”x 1/2” because I was trying my hardest to use WIMA and they were the only ones available
Great point!! I hope everyone reads this comment too! 🕺
thanks, have never built one... looking forward to giving it a shot.
Best of luck!! Enjoy and let me know how it goes!
Man, I super appreciate this. I've recently been getting into electronics and such, and being a (bad) guitarist persuaded me to start with pedals.
This is great. Just started building kits, and have used Tayda for most part orders, so this advice and info only improves what I buy and why I buy or use it. Thanks. Wish I'd seen it a week ago before my last order. :) Next time!
Cool Vid, I found this vid because I was trying to find a vid which talks about what jack I need for my pedal, which I want to convert from just a 9v battery user to a pedal I could plug into my pedalboard and not have to use 9V batteries
Hell yeah! Thanks! I'm going to order some PCBs now
This is awesome. I just built a simple two-button foot switch for my amp and I'm looking at building pedals. I was just trying to make sense of the different types of capacitors, resistors, etc and found this video. Thanks for clarifying some of this for me.
You're most welcome!! Happy building!!
Great Info, going into my 2nd and 3rd build soon! PedalPCB El Sol and Kliché Mini on deck.
Good stuff!!! Keep it up!
@@TheToneGeek if the box style Polyester caps are not available, is it ok to use the Mylar caps that are chicklet shaped? My understanding is they are basically the same just a different form factor?
@@brannonjones3668 yup!! I'm not sure why more people don't use the mylar chicklet style. They are great!
Is it true that higer the value for resistor in watage the less noisier it is ?
speculating here …
for example in place of high importance for noise as erlier in chain
you could put 1w instead of 0.5w
…
using carbon resistor magic
could be usefull
2w resistors in pedal
The signals and power is a combination of voltage and current. 9v pedal designs have such a low voltage signal, the data sheets suggest there shouldn't be much difference in "shot noise" that I think you're referring to. In tube amps where voltages are much higher, that's when the spec or the resistors do make an impact and yes, the higher wattage typically means less shot noise (so lower noise floor).
2w resistors could be very large but I'd definitely love to see it done! I think fuzz circuits could be fun with large resistors
Considering how diodes are a thing these days (think of Klon and KOT) would love a video like this about different choices there, even perhaps about putting them in sockets to test them in a circuit.
If you build a pedal with the same layout same components just used old version of those same components found from junk like old keyboard tvs etc will it sound the same as a pedal built using real boutique version of the same components
The main problem is that old components can be out of specifications due to age. And it makes troubleshooting a nightmare. Most of the time it is not worth it to salvage old components instead of buying new ones.
@@alexg8233 well I'm dirt poor and only use cash so no online shopping for me and i find it fun to desolder circuits and stuff
Howdy partner, I was wondering if you had any insight into knowing which DC power jacks are center negative? I bout some in the States and they were center positive (did not know that there would be a difference).
I feel like it's all in how you wire them? I'm going to guess the metal DC power jacks are intended for center positive but I could be surprised. Stick with these if you can!
lovemyswitches.com/categories/power-stuff/dc-jacks.html
@@TheToneGeek Thanks for the reply, I Was just curious because the instructions for my kit said that they recommend center negative, and then when I was looking on Amazon there were so many people saying "this is the opposite of how they are in "xyz" (as far as center negative/positive go), so I just wanted to double check. Thanks for your help, it is greatly appreciated.
@@jordanfreeman4170 that's good to think this one through. It's important so good job! Yes, boss introduced the center positive design to work with battery switching long ago. This quickly became standard in the pedal world where you have battery and external power functionality in the same product. Just make sure the jacks you get are plastic and not metal casing (causing the outer positive to ground against the chassis ⚡⚡) you got this!
How do you know the Volts of the Electrolytic Cap? I can not find it in the schematic. 22u for example
There usually is a second number on the cap and that is the voltage. It's usually a value that is shared across most cap brands like 6/10/16/20/24/35/etc.
As for on the schematic, you need to sorta learn how to read the schematic as far as what is for power or signal
I want to start modding/building my own pedals. What should I do for my first project?
Build a Marshall Bluesbreaker and then build a Wampler Parthenon (both pcbs available on PedalPCB) study the differences 😎
@@TheToneGeek thx
I loved this video! It provides a bunch of insight to the different kinds of parts and their specific uses. I am actually looking into make the 6-band EQ that PedalPCB sells, but being a Bass Player I want to actually START the frequency control at 32hz... looking at their schematic it looks like they are using a version of the EHX graphic EQ but I don't exactly know where I might be able to find a chart of what caps to use for what frequency and such. It looks like the capacitors on the frequency band circuits are the main thing that change and it would appear also as you go up the octave the capacitors double in "size". I also see on the schematic that the 100hz band doesn't utilize an IC but uses the same capacitor as the 400hz band and a super small resistor. Not sure where I am going with this, but is there a point in the frequency spectrum you HAVE to start using an IC or what purpose does the IC serve when controlling the frequency?
No it doesn't. People need to learn basic electronic theory. Ohms law. Transistor types, biasing transistors. Learn more theory. If people take a few months to learn the basics then they wouldn't need to buy kits. They read a schematic or they play around. Resistor size doesn't matter. Use half watt, especially on breadboards then you can use them more than once. This guy has no clue
Thanks Ryan. I’ve enjoyed all your videos and they have inspired me to start building my own pedals.
One thing I don’t remember you covering is what type of wire to use. Solid core or stranded, gauge, covering (silicon, pvc, or?). And sources for the single wire and ribbon cables.
Thanks again.
Ron
Hi Ron!! That's great about your new hobby and thank you for your kind words!! You're absolutely right I can't believe I missed about wires 😮 I like stranded wire. My favorite stranded wire is tubedepot.com/products/22-ga-tin-plated-aerospace-grade-tefzel-wire and for ribbon cable I get from Amazon. It looks like my original one I bought is out of stock but there is a few alternatives like this one smile.amazon.com/dp/B08435GF42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LOmCFbVMFB5D1 Let me know if you have any more questions.
@@TheToneGeek Thanks Ryan. That was just what I need to complete my orders for parts.
hey ryan,I've bought a tube screamer from tayda elec. and have 2 parts that don't fit,C5 and C6,(220n)they are too wide.I've tried to get an answer from them but nobdy has gotten back yet,can you help me out?THANKS Craig Lessard
What is it exactly that the WIMAs do better?
Great question... It's one of those things like Ford vs Dodge trucks.. they both get you from point A to point B, but some mechanics prefer one over another. In this case with WIMA vs generic, I trust the WIMA brand a bit more because of their reputation and broad product catalog. I personally like that they offer tight tolerance options within product categories so spec sheet wise, they seem to put care too. I know that doesn't always translate to audible sound difference, but I've never had an issue to date with WIMA (albeit, it's mostly what I use so I don't have much experience with other brands). Great question! Hopefully my opinion helps
Is there a kit form of the Anguilar Tone Hammer DI box for bass?
I honestly have no idea. I never looked ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Great video! Appreciate the recs on the tayda site. Got my eye on a pedal pcb that is out of stock and once it comes back in I'll know how to source. After building from a kit I see the sourcing to be the next step and a vastly better value!
What's the total cost for this pcb build, like all in, enclosure, wires, jacks, switches, pots, etc.?
Just wondering ballpark price?
Great info here Ryan! ...I might just have to get to the long list of pedals waiting for me to get to, lol
Dooo itttttt
I’ve just built a couple of fuzz pedals 1x silicon 1x germanium but I can’t get the germanium transistors to work can you help? Anything I can check?
I'm not sure what happened to Tayda.. I used to buy from them some years ago... but from one point in time, they started to offer only DHL Shipping (to Brazil), which brings two big problems: the shipping cost is about the same price as the products themselves (for my case); and 100% of what is DHL shipped is taxed by our customs.. and the taxes makes the costs double... i.e., final price is four times what I used to pay (some years ago, I used to pay from 5-10 USD for shipping, and no taxes). And so far, I could not find a good supplier abroad as Tayda.. I do have some locals, but none of them have such a friendly site and a comprehensive inventory...it is a pity
What is the quality of the components and pcbs at Tayda? I heard some people saying they were sub par?
In my experience, tayda components have come a long way since I started building ~10 years ago. Specifically, the leads on their resistors were very thin but are now the same diameter as you find on mouser. They also started offering Panasonic and other quality brand caps and Alpha footswitches. The only thing I may be cautious of is the transistors and more expensive op amps. Having a good way of testing these components is best if you're building in bulk. I compared taydas OPA2134PA with a genuine one from Mouser and it was very obvious on my scope that the Tayda OPA2134PA was NOT a rail-to-rail design.
I had only a few of their PCBs and they seem fine. Hope this helps!
Nice video, well done,thanks for sharing it with us :)
What happens if the resistors are higher than 1/4W? I ordered some for a build but wasn't paying attention to their power rating since the build doc never specified a rating.
Perfectly fine. Some may say it's "mojo". Just stand the resistors up on one end (vertical) and you'll be fine
This video is extremely helpful. Thank you!
subscribed...where do you source the klon enclosure
Are polypropylene plastic film caps okay?
Totally fine ✅
@@TheToneGeek thanks man! New sub here 👍
Where you located ?
I never comment on videos but this was brilliant. Thanks for the information.
Dude. Instant follow. Oh boy, I feel I’m crossing a gateway. Let the experiments begin. [baby steps 🦶] 👌✌️🤙
Thanks for the helpful info. I've done work on my amps, but never built a pedal. I have a BossTone clone kit that I'll be building soon. It came with metal film resistors, but I wanted to use carbon film like Koa Speer, so I ordered all resistors in that. Supposedly Kiwame and Koa Speer are the same. What is the best carbon film you recommend? Some state Xicon is the way to go ....
Thanks so much for a very useful video.
You are welcome!
I have found that in most pedals, especially overdrive or distortion, the metal film works best for a low noise floor. Does it make a huge difference? Not really, but the cost is nearly the same, so I use metal film pretty much for everything.
Great point!
Is there any effects if I'm using mylar caps??
Those are good. Much like the polyester
@@TheToneGeek i mean the green one? Not the MKT caps
@@ekasatriabahari2264 yup! Green mylar is plastic/polyester so I would expect the tone to be about the same 😎
Super helpful video
I'm just starting building pedals and this helped a lot! If the document of the PCB doesnt mention the kind of resistor, like 1/4, should i pick that value anyway?
Awesome!!! Yes, it's safe to say that most pedal builds will use 1/4w resistors. 😎
@@TheToneGeek I've just wanted to ask the same question ;) Great video, man!
@@OstryRocks awesome!!! Glad to help!
I made a order at tayda 2 weeks ago and it hasn't even shipped yet
Great video! Do you recommend the same concepts you explained for modding pedals? Replacing cheap electrolytics caps with MLCC for decoupling, etc.?
Hi Victor. Depends what your goal is. For faithful recreation of a pedal, finding a gut shot of the original and using the same component type in the same location will be helpful there. You're right to say that capacitors is a perfect place to start for modding. Watch out for MLCC though as there are different grades. C0G/NP0 will be a better sonic choice over the more common X7R because of the linear temperature coefficient. High quality (WIMA) box film polyester capacitors is even better yet for audio applications. Great question!
@@TheToneGeek a bit late to comment, sorry 🙂
The big difference between C0G and X7R in audio applications lies not so much in the temperature coefficient, but the voltage coefficient.
X7R capacitance changes with voltage, so if you use them for AC signals, the capacitance will be modulated. They also tend to be microphonic, especially the leaded versions.
C0G tends to be rather expensive for larger values.
This is what I need for start making pedals, thank you very much!! one question: what's the size in mm of the LED that goes on the 125b enclosure?
I prefer 5mm. Thank you so much for watching! Happy building!
@The Tone Geek dude. You should at least know what you're talking about. These are beginners looking for help. Amazon electronics kit is all they need. You gloss over so much it's criminal. I'm not a troll, I'm disappointed.
@@jstro-hobbytech no idea of what you're talking about, but this video was what made possible for me to build my first pedal;
I used this guide to buy from Tayda and I'm 100% satisfied with it! :)
@Rodrigo Andrion was it a diy kit or a pedal from schematic?
My point us you need to learn certain things about electronics and such which make it easier to get into it. I teach guitar, coding, electronics, embedded iot.
@Rodrigo Andrion if you did it from a schematic as a basis and wasn't a paint by numbers than good job brother. Honestly
Great Info man!!! Love from INDIA
Hi!! 👋🏻 Welcome!
Tayda hasent had coupon codes since you made this video. used to get them all the time. wont even update their website. but still are about the cheapest prices around
Yeah I noticed this too. I think once COVID hit they stopped offering coupons but I don't think it's really needed with their prices so low already and quick shipping
I’ve heard some of the tayda stuff is fake (some transistors and the Wima caps) have you found any of that to be true?
A few years ago there was some questionable products (multiple complaints about their charge pump ICs and resistor lead thickness) however they have really stepped their game up and I'm very happy with their quality now and confidence in authentic parts. Once and a while I'll get an odd resistor value of their old stock and it's immediately recognizable as flimsy but that's very infrequent now.
Dude, Thank you!
Awesome video! I'm new to this. Just bought my first clone kit. I was looking at getting a Weller soldering iron kit Is that a good brand? Also looking at pcbs at the exact same site too! Wow this video was meant for me! You have a new subscriber
Very helpful
Great Video!!!🙂👍👍👍
Which PCB do you find to be the closest exact copy of the original bluesbreaker?
Dan Crandall Aion Electronics has a pretty awesome honest circuit. PedalPCB does as well 😍
@@TheToneGeek I would agree with the PedalPCB version being close, but with the two Aion output stages, you're likely going to get a near Morning Glory (if choosing the JFET option) or a slightly warped half KOT. Opamp choice between all 3 (original BB, MG and KOT) are different, but the TL072 is meant to be in the BB, not the two most likely outcomes mentioned above. Maybe it won't matter, but personal opinion of that isn't really an honest answer. Don't get me wrong Aion have some great ideas, but when they say 'based on', they often mean it.
is tayda still in bizz?..i know small bear is not.
SmallBear is still in business. Sold to SynthCube out of Massachusetts
@@TheToneGeek thnx.mister"😀🎉😀👈happy time's now..having trouble access to tayda though"😢
@@billymiller3249 oh no! Really? I ordered from them yesterday. I know they said they are taking a break for Chinese new year. Maybe that has something to do with it? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@@TheToneGeek yeah..their new year is like a heat sink"🎉😀🎉
Thanks Ryan, great video! I think I asked you about this once or twice already, haha
No worries!
Sweet! Thank you brother!!
i have built 3 pedals and they do not work i know what risitors transistors are BUT they do not work all of the pedale i bought came from china and germany .. with not so good instructions
I don't get why I EVER should select a carbon film resistor over a metal film one. The result can only be worse (more noise, higher tolerance). Is the idea to make the circuit as bad as the original ?!? The price difference is too small to play a role here ....
Bingo. Yes, it's just to replicate an original. In pedals, they don't matter as much higher voltage and shot-noise introduced more with carbon film over metal too
To summarize the video, building pedals requires reading a lot of internetz and belief in snake oil.
just so you know its WAAAmpler like WAH pedals. good video though for people trying to learn.
But for everyone watching, WIMA is not the best. Not by a long shot. There is literally NO difference between a WIMa and the cheaper film caps. WIMA are actually usually worse with worse tolerances. And they sound IDENTICAL.
Ohms law should be the first thing people learn