How to Build a Pole Barn Pt 7 - Metal Roofing
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- Опубліковано 30 бер 2014
- This is the seventh part in a series on how to build a pole barn or pole garage. This video shows how to install the metal roof and metal trim.
For a complete materials list, plans, and a very cool 3D Sketchup model of this project click the link below.
www.redneckdiy.com/pole-barn-p...
At the bottom of that page there's a link that will take you to where you can download this information.
You can get a free version of Trimble Sketchup here:
www.sketchup.com - Навчання та стиль
The bloopers at the end = golden! Lol! I feel your pain. I'm the same way.
I loved the 'not to scale' models you used in this series, especially the truss hanging
paul burch Thanks for watching, Paul. Glad it helped out.
Appreciate all your hard work putting these videos together
Great job. Good old school wisdom and common sense. Great Job Brother!!
I thought it was really cool of you to make a mockup of the process so that it was easy to explain. Thanks bud!
Thanks for the props. I appreciate you watching.
You are a great teacher and funny as hell with your camera blooper.
First, I want to say: this is an incredibly well-done and helpful video series! I really, really appreciate the thought and effort you put into presenting this information well, and I learned a ton. One note I wanted to make on the 'bubble-wrap' insulation, whether it's double-bubble or otherwise: for the purpose of actually insulating an enclosure, the stuff is pure snake oil. There is no magic physics loophole that allows a 3/8" thick layer of bubble wrap to provide R7, R8, or whatever else the manufacturers claim these days. The reason those manufacturers haven't been bankrupted by false advertising lawsuits is that they managed to construct a hypothetical installation method in which it does actually perform that way. The thing is - it's an installation method that is so arduous and impractical that anyone reading the spec would go "you've got to be kidding me". It's also an installation method that would preclude its usage in this exact scenario, namely sandwiched between trusses and sheet metal roofing. I've no doubt that it fulfills the need stated here - to catch condensation and provide a kind of 'oven' to evaporate that condensation - but its insulation capabilities in this installation are negligible at best.
Awesome as usual. I love the model cause it helps me see what you're talking about. Good job. Love it!
This is a really helpful series of videos. Nice job and thank you for posting them.
Awesome job explaining this. All the parts I had questions on you answered!! This is an awesome series - Thank you!!!!!
Just found this series - and it was very informative. As for working alone ... I am with you there - it sucks. Things go better with help. Like one person can more than double the productivity.
I really like the extra effort you did with the models you have made for further explanation of your building techniques...Dave
This information is very helpful to me on my pole barn build. I chose to fasten on top of the rib too. Same reasons. Thanks brother.
I really enjoy how you explain things like the wind blowing. Things we don't think of when we do this.
You do a great job sir explaining things for us Layman's. To the point and not a lot of Yip Yap, thank you.
Your voice makes me miss Georgia. I moved to Idaho 15 years ago. Thanks for the tips, we're building a woodshed and a pole barn type carport with metal roofs.
probably the best video of the barn build YET!
Andrew Bellah Thanks for the kind words, Andrew!
I'm looking at potentially re-roofing my 24'x24' shop next summer (if I can afford it) and focusing on properly insulating and sealing it (right now it's batted fiberglass insulation that's sagging and falling out along a lot of the sides). This video was a great one to happen across while researching what to do and what not to do. Great work.
Great video and I cant wait to get over to your site to see the sketchup and breakdown of cost!
Great series. Helping me build my barn for sure. Thank you!
Good job, good explanations, a guy down the page said this guy would make a good neighbor, I agree... Thanks for taking the time and effort to make this video...
Maybe i'm the only one who noticed those bows in the background. Purtty Sweet man! Great video that shows some of the less experienced guys how to do stuff DIY. Thanks brother.
Matthew Deinhardt Thanks for watching Matthew. It always amazes me what folks notice in the background. Ha!
Great video, you do a great job explaining things.
most helpful videos ive seen yet! Thanks!
Glad to see your continual progress Brother Feddie!
Love your very informative videos especially the way you did the step by step protocol in your garage!
God's Blessings!
Denny Grimes
Phenix City, Alabama
Thanks Denny. I appreciate you following this series so faithfully. I've really looked forward to your comments on the videos. I guess knowing you've been in the trades all your life, I realize you know how to do most of these things in your sleep. You know the deal! Your "approval" re-assures me! Thanks again.
you have a beautiful attitude, thank you
No doubt this is the best and most informative youtube channel on youtube. I appreciate the amount of detail you provide. Great job keep em' coming.
Thanks much. I appreciate the kind thoughts. I'm glad it's helping folks out. Thanks for watching.
Caught the rest of the video with the insulating segment. Looks like you will be happy with that type. Some of the big buildings here were installed with fiberglass (covered with plastic) but as the ends are open the winds here can exceed 100knots so it has ripped that thin plastic and torn the fiberglass loose. It is for boat storage and you find bits and pieces on your boat after each big storm. Doug
Great series. I think I can do it.
Nice progress buddy.
Never big enough is so true.
Thanks for the compliment. Yeah, I should have made it about 150 feet wide with about 15 bays. Ha! I appreciate the views!
thank you so much for these videos, very helpful as I will be attempting to replicate what you've done.
Love your series so far, have to build a second pole barn soon. But I’d like to point out two things. If you look at the “short” edge, you will notice it has an extra bend in it. It’s a siphon break, to keep water from pulling over between the sheets via capillary action when it rains. Also new metal siding is designed for screws on the flats, that allows the ribs to expand and contract without forcing the fasteners to work loose. Screws on ribs is old school, we have learned better, that’s why manufacturer says that way. But keep up the great work! Learning things in your other videos!
turbo84
Yes screw on ribs is old school when they most just had nails and the nails would back. Screw on the flats is the new way and better way the screw will always be tight on the flat in the rib they will loosen up over time.
you are a parfect master,,,,I lern a lot many many thanks for sharing
Nizi Nizamudin Thanks for the great comments. I appreciate it.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts in such detail and taking some of the mystery out of the building trade. Books are wonderful but seeing is believing. Your time and effort in presenting the techniques and procedures are just wonderful. The local experts are somewhat secretive and elusive in their trades. You are an inspiration. Guys like you who are willing to share their knowledge are a blessing to those of us who are sometimes locked out of local establishment.. Many thanks
Great feedback and I really appreciate your kind words. Thanks for watching the videos! We can't all be experts in everything but there really is too much mystery around a lot of this type of stuff. It's the tips, tricks, and shortcuts that are only learned through repetition but the fundamentals are the same. Thanks again and lemme know if I can ever help out with something.
You rock!
Well done Sir.
Thanks Robert. I appreciate you watching.
Double sided tape works well with that bubble installation to hold it down while you put the roof on
You're hilarious in a good way!
Nice work
Thanks!
Hey Feddie, Great Job and cheers to the videos, thank you. I haven't seen the instructions to your metal roofing, but your metal roofing material looks exactly like mine. Anyways, had hail damage and the insurance adjuster came out to inspect. Few weeks later I received a letter saying my insurance will not cover the hail damage because I secured the metal roofing through the top rib, as you did in your video. Enclosed in the letter were manufactures instructions highlighting the instructions saying screws were to be on the lowest valley flat surface. Long story short, after many arguments (some heated) the insurance did final cover it only because the damage wasn't wind damage. Just food for thought.
Thanks for watching and for your words. Dang, those insurance companies try to wiggle out any way they can. You know, for every "manufacturer recommendation" they can find showing to put the screws in the flat, you can also produce one from another company saying to put it in the rib or even a combination of the two. Anyway, glad you got er fixed on their dime!
thats a nice truck :)
Thanks for this video. I think it is pretty helpful for my greenhouse project.
I subscribed. One question, how much for all those materials ?
Thanks
Buy a, “Whitney Punch”, to make your like easier, for holes needed in your drip metal, etc.
Was it a conscious decision not to put the metal facia trim up? They make a piece bent you your roof (4/12) pitch that you order in the width of the facia. Then the drip edge goes over the top. So there is no exposed facia. Even behind the gutters it is visible and also gets weathered. You would also have to drop your gutters to paint it every now and again otherwise. I like the style that cups the bottom of the facia and is overlapped by the drip edge so it fully protects the wood of the facia. Also buy the double ended sheet metal drill bits as you get more for your buck. Nice looking barn. Do you have any condensation problems in your part of the country with the bare steel? Up here it would rain constantly from condensation if there isn't some insulation even in an open building on the underside of the steel. Another good video. Doug
good explanation of the wind and how to lay panels. we layed ours with the overlap facing north since most wind comes out of the south/west. the fella that started the roof 16' panels, said if the wind takes one it would not take all of them.. I have had greenhouses striped of their plastic even in secure wire channels when the wind gets ahold of them.. can only imagine what it'd do to a metal roof..
I'll tell you, Fritz, after seeing the video of your cottage, there was some serious courage involved with putting your roof on! You're right, mother nature finds a way to take what it wants.
yeah, not a comfortable thing for me, have a major fear of heights especially when we had the ridge pole think he called, mounting the roof rafters.. those were 18' 2x4's and there was nothing to hang on to up there.
fritz e My Dad has been building Pole Barns for over 60 years. The best piece of advice he ever gave me about laying out a metal roof was to use a good construction adhesive on the windward side of the first two courses of metal and the wind would never be able to rip your roof off. I have seen Homes completely destroyed by wind and a Barn Roof that he built 50 yards away be completely in tact. Don't know why it works, just that it does.
thank you,,,
Great series...you cover a lot of ground in a concise yet easily understood manner. One question, where did you get that bad*** nailgun?? Thanks for taking the time to video your project as I'm starting my barn later this month.
John Waite Thanks for watching. I appreciate the encouragement. I bought the nail gun at Lowes. It's a Paslode cordless framing nailer.
Screws on the rib! Manufacturer says screws on the flat. I'm with you "screws on the rib". learned my lesson years ago.
+ragingmoon515 Thanks for the support on that, Raging!
I have done it both ways. In a bunch of metal roofs I've put on, the only metal roof in which I had some leaks was where I followed mfgr's instructions and screwed on the flat. Screwing on the flat is extremely sensitive to the right amount of torque on those little gasket head roofing screw. It definitely requires the Goldilocks technique -- not too loose and not too tight but JUST RIGHT -- or it will leak. But sometimes it will leak anyway. Grrrrrrr.... Conclusion? I vote with Freddie. To hell with the mfgr's instruction, I'm screwing on the rib next time.
Hey great video. One question, do you install the side and bottom metal edge trim before the roof or can you install all the trimming afterwards. Thx
DallasCityOfChampions
Nice good job
Thank you Greg.
It's funny you mentioned rolling that foil insulation out sideways. I redid my roof last year and rolled it out along my roof (about 60ft)
We managed to get it on, but had to lay down 1x3 scabbing to keep the wind from ripping it off until the roof panels were down.
I had one incident while trying to lay it myself where i had a 60 ft piece flying in the wind while i was laying on my back on the roof trying to keep it from flying into power line. I live surrounded by nothing but pasture and corn fields so the wind is always harsh.
rolling it out into 16ft lengths definitely would of been better haha.
Matthew Ohrenberg Thanks for watching. Yep, that stuff is a little awkward to work with unless your a few folks helping.
When you cut the metal, does it rust on the cut edge?
I agree with his explanation of screw placement, but be aware of what the manufacturer requires for their warranty.
Great video, thank u much
Sounds like middle Tennessee accent, wonder where u from.
I was guessing Middle Tennessee, too, but northern portion, closer to KY.
I appreciate the hard work you're putting in on these vids...You realize of course that by putting your shed down in the bottom, far from the driveway, you're gonna spend a fortune at $22 dollars a ton for rock, building a road down to it...Also running your power down to it is gonna be pricy. Without a road or electricity you ain't gonna like your new shed that much......What was your reason for going remote with your location?
I have a driveway going to the shed so I'm good there. Power is not really a necessity though. I'm just using it for shelter for the tractor and implements. Thanks for watching. Oh, crush and run is only about $13/ton where I live. I'm pretty close to a quarry though.
What brand is your cordless nailer? Do you like it? Pros/cons? Thanks.
I got part 2 before part 1 keep up the good videos .
Good deal. Thanks for watching.
Do you think the screw holds better in the flat vrs the the length you lose screwing into the rib? Any answer appreciated
Duncan Construction!
Aesthetically, that's for good looks, the screws on the ribs, go unnoticed. While screws on the flats look like bird shot, very busy with screws. Maybe not important on a pole barn, but on a house roof, looks are most important.
Correct me if I am wrong but didn't you start your metal on the wrong side of your roof from what you said wind direction is? Not on your example but on your building. Just wanted to say how much I have enjoyed watching your videos. They have been very helpful.
Those who can't think of many things at once put the fasteners in the ribs. Those who understand physics, want tight fasteners, and a stable building with fantastic triangular strength place the fasteners in the flats.
Wrong
"mother nature has a way of annihilating things" metal!!
Hey man I need help building a 2 story barn two floors
Well I’m in trouble then . I have been watching different videos on how to do mine . And the first think them talk about is the wind. So here is my problem. If you looking at the porch the left side is on the northeast, and the right side is on the west side . Well All my heavy wind is on both sides . So I’m lost on how to start.
He could make a good neighbor
Instead of drip edge... I'd use eave trim
+blazingnailgun Do you put drip edge on, even if you are going to run gutters?
+Paul Petrea Yes, it keeps the water from rolling under and working its way back up. Thanks for watching.
+blazingnailgun Shot ya a little beer money. Thanks for the videos.
Ok love at
Screwing on the ribs causes the sheet metal to crack and pop when your metal expands and contracts. The reason for screwing in the flats is simply because the ribs are to expand and contract not the flat. The key to running screws in is not to over torque and smash the neoprene washer, or for the washer to be loose under the screw. And you should always have a minimum of 1 1/2 inch over hanging. Not enough will cause water to run back under the metal. Just a little constructive criticism from someone whom is professional.
Joshua Sims Thanks for taking a minute to share some tips with everyone. I appreciate it and appreciate you watching the videos.
plus you are losing a lot of diaphragm strength by not screwing in the flats. Great series btw
Great video, thanks for posting. A little lemon water to wash the goobers down before speaking works for me. Thanks again.
Great Video, Couple Notes, (Not Criticism) Predrilling holes works great but only for a solid substrate. Screws in the Rib is obviously the only way to install these types of the Panels, this is what I tell everyone water runs in the flat of the panel not on a 3/8" wide rib!!! Also we always use the 3-4-5 squaring method on the very first panel to make sure the panels run true and square the length of the building. Just my 2 cents for what its worth, Great Video My Friend!!
+Josh Norman Great tips. Don't mind the critique at all. That's how everyone here learns!
while don't you hold your hammer at the end of the handle
Joe Bradshaw It's an old European technique...
Double bubble has no R value
Never make it big enough,,,, no truer words
hahaha
I would never have a metal roof installed with exposed screws.. doesn't matter if you screw them in properly..eventually, they will fail and your roof will leak within the first 5 years... if would have been better if you had done the Standing Seam Metal option.
Sorry but your wrong, I can take you to barns that have been standing for 30 years in a heavy down pour and I guarantee you will not find a leak.
I agree with Bart. Plus, have you priced a standing seam roof? 4 times the cost.
ة
Your videos are great, sucks that you have to explain that your not a professional and your only showing how you got the job done in every video so you don't have everyone telling you that your doing it wrong, I'll pry build a twin to your barn for a tractor shed
Thanks for the kind words Josh!
is that his best southern accent? c'mon, do better n 'at
Just wanted to thank you for taking the time to put all this content up. I used it over the winter to plan my pole building project and used a lot of your methods. My tractor is a bit smaller so instead of getting an auger for it I rented a Toro Dingo with the auger - what an awesome tool that is. Here is my completed project. photos.app.goo.gl/14FtEhCG39Kgr3vU6