Been a mobile welder doing jobs like this for 10 years. Jobs like this suck hard and there is no way around it. Your welds look damn good for the conditions. Usually it’s everything you can do just to make welds without discontinuities much less make them pretty. These jobs rarely ever come out perfect. You did a great job on this repair. I think only thing I may have done differently was cut out the old patch on the 2nd side and just made it larger/better. But space restraints may not have made that possible. You made it better either way. Tell you what though, no way I would have TIG welded all that. I don’t have the patience for all that. 7018 or dual shield off the LN25 would have been my method. Sparks burning you all day ain’t no fun, but at least it’s over 15x faster. I bet your whole body is smoked from that job. That’s a long time to be uncomfortable and in bad positions. Don’t let anyone tell you anything they think you did wrong or should have done. 99% of anyone going to comment that could never have done half the repair you did and don’t understand what it took to do what you did.
I agree, 7018 makes some nice looking welds, but Greg didn't like the idea of running stick about 7 inches away from a plastic fuel tank. Probably at least 30 gallon tank too. One little red hot BB goes flying the wrong way, and you get incinerated.
@@brnmcc01 true, not sure if space would have allowed this, but I care some thin plate steel on my truck and I use it to block off areas to keep heat and spatter off of stuff. But yes welding next to gasoline would be sketch, I forgot about about that tid bit.
what a bastard of a job! Good on you for making it work! I'm an inspector for NYS and have had farmers bring in their own frame stretches on heavy trucks without welding the overhead on frame flanges, mig wire hanging out all over the place. Run-on and run-off tabs aren't even considered! People don't understand to never intersect welds on fishplates either-crack propagation is a real thing!!
What do you do when you see stuff like that? Do people actually fix it right? Here is Wisconsin anything goes, literally. If they did inspections atleast 1/3 of the cars would be off the road immediately lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg my only recourse is deny them an inspection sticker. Everybody likes to complain about DOT, but their roadside inspections do serve a purpose!
Nice work, Greg. A couple comments from this engineer- the frame rails carry stress at the top (compression) and bottom (tension) when loaded. As you go towards the center, they carry less and less until you get to the “neutral axis” of the beam which carries essentially no weight. So the fishplate that was only in the middle of the frame was doing next to nothing. Extending it towards the top and bottom was the right call. As was the avoidance of square corners and sharp edges. The coating appears to be Ziebart, which will guarantee that the frame will rot out at least twice as fast as one that is “unprotected.”
Question, will it rust under the fishplate? (if the weld isn't watertight) Would it be sensible to paint the frame and fishplate with epoxy primer (apart from weld area) before welding it?
Apparently it will also guarantee That the truck will will be a total loss and burn to the ground if you weld near it once applied so you don’t have to be concerned about rusting out of rotting then also
@@RobertLukierski Almost certainly it will. But since Greg used the time tested “flame technique” to remove the Ziebart there, maybe not as fast as some of the other parts.
@robertlukierski The area behind the plate could rust, but given the thickness of metal and the fact I know the weld is water tight, it would require moisture getting in there for it to start rusting. The only way for that to happen is for a hole. At some point it would likely rust through a point where water could get in, but at that point the frame would likely be junk. On thinner material I would think it would be far more critical to coat the backside (like auto body). Thin steel will rust out in no time in comparison to 1/4.
Couple things I forgot to mention. I did put a 4inch strip of steel on the top rail on both sides and welded that. So ultimately it was fully welded as a but joint and plated on the top. I also believe that they forgot to weld the top and bottom. The torch cutting of the back of the frame rails in some spots and not others suggests they had some fitment issues and I think they finally got the box on and said screw it. The only reason I think it didn’t fail yet is due to the van having very little miles (it’s used to drive to areas to the kids). If it saw a fair amount of potholes or salt it surely would have failed. For those wondering I did lift arc start and free handed the weld. It was probably one of the hardest jobs I had to do from a being cramped into something perspective. Imagine spending 8 hours crammed in where you can barely see anything and trying to put a decent weld down. I also cleaned off a bunch of the undercoating before welding. No joke, if you work on something coated with whatever that is be very careful. The coating might as well been lamp oil.
Thanks for the kind words 😀. It was an easy job in theory but the access made it far harder than it should be. That’s the hard part of doing repairs, it’s always on the least accessible area under the worst circumstances lol.
I do quite a few car and van corrosion repairs and the anti corrosion treatment by the manufacturer and later by owners can be a nightmare for fires. Also, wiring and brake lines you have to be careful about. I do Mig because my Tig skills are not good enough. If you are going to do work on vehciles folks, keep in mind grinder sparks and weld spatter will get into your helmet, gloves and overalls, I can guarantee you will get burnt to some degree or another and you will set fire to something. Keep a compressed air line to hand to extinguish fires and get on them fast. A very interesting repait topic young man.
I have never seen something lite up like that coating. Grease and oil will catch and slowly burn. That stuff had spread to almost two feet away from where I started welding in seconds, and had a legit candle like flame. Everything about the job sucked, it didn’t help thinking about how at some point the body wasn’t on the frame and it would have been 100% accessible to do a good job lol.
I'm a retired electrical engineer, not a mechanical engineer, but I worked with a lot of mechanical engineers during my 35 year career. Your instincts about the generously radiuses corners being better than square corners and non square patch were right own. Sharp corners and cracks act as stress risers. They can raise the stress un a local area of metal to the point the metal will tear. A plate like yours doesn't have sharp corners so it doesn't have stress risers on the corners. Well done!
Thanks 😀. No doubt there is a reason so many weld on plates (be it heavy equipment or something load bearing) avoid sharp corners. Universally a square plate like they did on that frame screams amateur. Not to mention the starts and stops are guaranteed to be right on the corners. So you have a lack of fusion and likely a poor tie in at the worst possible place.
Coming from two generations of fab shop experience in truck frame modding for grain, gravel, fertilizer ect straight trucks from one ton on up to 25 yards plus dump/grain boxes ect. your diamond fish plate is spot on and proper. now go to 2016 Ford E-450 that carries our class C 28foot motor home, I went to the factory to see my rig being built twice (something they allowed) and in the beginning the frame strich was sent to an actual truck frame shop as per Ford upfit requirements (yes it was certified) to Ford spec. this is normal I guess on these cab chassis. they did a good job on my MH. as for that truck I would have reached out to Ford and see what they thought, or if the job was deemed dangerous take the facility to court and sue them to fix it properly. you got a lot of moving part's there but you did an excellent job with what you had to work with 👍
The company that did that made the half million dollar swat van, and atleast 3 other upfitted vehicles for the city I work for. They also made all the tool trucks (Mac, snap on, Cornwell) that deliver parts to the shop too. I am going to take a good look over those other ones in the future. The guy who found the frame in the video said it’s not the first time something like that was found. It’s good that he is thorough, most people would have never looked at that. That frame would have failed already if the vehicle was driven in winter. Pretty sad.
I don't know how that person got that job ! But I do know that what you did is much superior to what was done before ! I would feel much better driving around in that vehicle after you did your repairs ! I have been watching your program for a while and have found it very educating ! Thank you for sharing this job with us !
Thanks for the kind words. I have no doubt that the fact that vehicle is moved very little, stored indoors often, and doesn’t see salt/winter is the only reason the frame didn’t fail. A couple good years of salt and snow and it would have failed on some pothole no doubt. Pretty sad a company would let that out the door. I am Just glad I was able to do the repair and basically save the city thousands of dollars in repairs. The library system has no budget so outsourcing the job would have put a hurting on it.
The old 1970s international harvester service manual gives instructions for welding heat treated frames. They say to use only an arc welder, never gas welding. The cuts are always supposed to be cut at 45 degrees and then reinforced with angle stock top and bottom. They say to drill holes in the reinforcements and plug weld it to the frame members. If you're interested I can send you a copy in PDF.
Killer job on that one Greg you got to put your designer tig touch on this one like your colored art stuff. I was in a hurry tho when I first welded this van up. Those little plates were all I cud find on the floor at the shop. Ogh and I had eye surgery that day I welded that thing up too, so I was only using one eye 👁️ also, but overall I thought it came out pretty damn good 👍. My first attempt at it using solder didn’t actually hold that box 📦 on the back but for like 30 min so we had to take her back off and get out the welder for a one eye special.
Haha that sounds about right lol. I honestly think everything they did was an afterthought and they forgot to fully weld it. They figured that out after the body was on the frame and their patch was the solution lol.
This is the only frame I have ever seen on something as old (I think it was at least 5 years old) that could even remotely be tig welded. Since it doesn’t drive in winter, is stored inside I believe, and doesn’t see many miles it was still in pristine condition. I really lucked out, if it had been rusty I would have definitely had to done some serious fire watch work, pull the gas tank, and had a very hard time getting in to weld. Getting a proper mig gun angle would have been almost impossible due to clearance (no flex neck gun). I would have had to stick weld it with rods broken in half. I got real lucky.
Can you imagine how much easier that would have been in the factory with no box, no fuel tank, no wiring, no undercoat, relatively clean metal, pre-cut fish scale? If you consider the amount of time that it took them to do what they did, I bet someone could have done it properly in 30 to 45 minutes more than they took. The problem isn't with the guy that did it because he's clearly not trained and has no idea. It's management. It needs to be made public who these a-holes are so everyone can look at their own frames I watch a UA-cam channel that's all about faulty RV construction. You should see what they're doing on their frames. Disgusting. These things are all on the road!
I got in a heated discussion a couple weeks ago with some people over frame welding and repair. A lot of people are under the impression that anyone who welds frames on vehicles is a certified welder and their work is somehow inspected. This simply isn’t the case and it’s a virtual free for all. Just like you said, when they had full access to everything it would have been a quick job to do right. I think they put the body on it and realized they forgot to weld the top and bottom of the channel. Rather than doing anything about that they just slapped a plate on It and called it good. I have heard the rv business is real bad with work. I have only worked on a few rvs and I have seen enough to worry about the quality. There are so many companies that make rvs that I know the market must be flooded with trash. Kind of like trailers lol.
My son drives a logging truck in the Pacific Northwest and those things get frame cracks a couple or more times a year. The only government regulations about the repair says something like, '... frame cracks are to be repaired according to mfr. specifications...' The fleet he works with are all from the late 80's - early 2000, the mfr. only requirements is just a fill material and maybe sometimes a mention about heat control to reduce post-weld cracking. As for certification of the weldor they only say the weld is to be performed by a weldor 'competent' in that process. So all these small operations can't afford a documented weldor to repair frame cracks and just do it themselves following mfr. guidelines.
Interesting and thanks for sharing. I bet those logging roads are tough on frames. What you described is what I have found in many cases, they often use a “best practice” clause which basically says what you said. From a standpoint of legality it would be very difficult for any inspector to verify a repair wasn’t a factory weld unless the work is shoddy. There are simply too many trucks and variables to know what is original and what’s not. A good example would be Garbage trucks I have worked on have tons of stuff I have never seen welded to a frame actually welded on.
Hey Greg, nice repair. Just wanted to mention (and some may not agree), but I also see a ton of shops that will "Z" cut a frame for splice or repairs. They totally miss the point about structural welding and lay in a big fat long useless weld along the neutral axes of the frame. I laugh every time I see it. All OEM frame repair manuals call for straight perpendicular cuts and welds. Never seen one that calls for a "Z" cut prep and weld. Just wanted to mention that. But back to your point, up fitters are the worst, I don't think I have seen one up fitter that complete a decent job, from fire trucks and ambulances to crew cab conversions, and hi-rail applications etc, all junk work. Hate to say it but may need more regulation for these clown up fitter shops.
Great thoughts and I appreciate you sharing them. I think the whole Z cutting is done for 3 reasons, based on what I have seen. 1) it limits how much of the vertical welds are in line. Because most people can’t vertical up mig weld decent, by having the up welds spilt if one cracks it probably won’t crack the other causing a complete frame break. Most people can run far more solid horizontal welds. 2) it self locates the frame if measured correctly. My guess is many people don’t measure correctly and it’s far from a perfect alignment anyway lol. And 3rd the assumption more weld gives less of a chance for a frame break. I am more of your thoughts, I rather just run a proper straight splice and plate it if needed. Ultimately bad welds are likely to fail regardless of where they are lol. Those upfitters are bad, you’re not joking. Until my current job repairing stuff for a DPW I didn’t have much experience with upfitted trucks. I have seen a bunch of real bad RVs in the past but some of the stuff I have seen since starting my new job is just flat out sad. The quality difference between OEM and the upfitted trucks is night and day different.
I think you should stop second-guessing yourself; it is commendable to discuss your own faults, but look at what you did compared to the previous, and they had access 1000% better than you had prior to the box being installed. One idea of possible suggestion, when comparing a Fish Plate to a Flitch Plate, it is important to spread the stress out even across the plate, so maybe add some weld holes (much like a bung hole weld) where you weld the fish plate to the base material through a hole. Take the last image of your video...three or four holes on each side of the frame joint, fully welded, will be much stronger than the perimeter welds alone. It is JUST a suggestion, as I'm not seeing what you see. :)
If you think that frame is bad you should see the frame of a camper made by forest river! I just got done reparing four cracks in my camper frame. Only time and miles will tell how well I did.
I have heard horror stories of campers. Seems like standards don’t exist lol. If you prepped it and did a good job it should last. Maintenance is always an issue with campers though. Hard to find a decent brand.
Greg, some great photo documentation......really shows what's What..... those are some nice TIG welds, especially considering the position you were in... not like the Instagram Bench Top beauties that everyone shows.....this is Real World..... As far as needing a bigger Gas Cup, I do not think that would make much difference on carbon steel.....other than allowing you more electrode stockout, which I find handy for being able to see the weld in difficult spots.....I use a #10 Furick Jazzy Gas Lens with great success... on both carbon, stainless and aluminum...also the 8 and 12.....but sometimes on aluminum , just a #6 non gas lens, depends on what I feel like..... I remember working at at shop that they told me on a fish plate, that if you did all around weld, it would cause issues, but I cant remember the sides you weld, top/bottom or sides??? I agree with your use of TIG to keep from getting a spark shower......and also the safety issue.... Many truck frames are T-1 steel.....and it is strictly forbidden to weld on them [Class 8] and not drilling through the top and bottom plates, only the sides......When I worked for Volvo Corporate in the 1990's, they had a repair procedure for cross members, the cross member came in two pieces, you riveted or Huck bolted or just bolted the ends to the frame and then welded the middle section together......I think T-1 is about 120,000 ksi.....so it also needs high strength filler.... I used to do work on Auto Haulers....the big ones.....always used Stick [SMAW]....well one time, they brought a unit into the shop, and there was not stick machine, [I usually did in the field] so I used the shop MIG.....thought I did a good job......next week, truck came back and owner was really mad, the weld repair I had done broke, lack of penetration........never again used MIG.... the car on top fell on the one below and did some serious damage......oh well....love and learn...... cheers my friend, Paul........
I got to pickup another #10 jazzy cup. I broke mine and have been without it since. I did weld all the way around the fish plate. I have seen big equipment not weld the ends (top/bottom was welded). I need to do some more research on this. I have a feeling part of it is on thick steel it would be more likely to have a crack spread around the front/back with a continuous weld vs separate. It would also be under far more residual stress after being fully welded I would think too. Your story about mig welding the frame is a valuable lesson and I can tell you’ve been around the block 😀. I always laugh when people say “I know what I am doing, I have never had a weld fail”. If you weld a lot you’re bound to make a mistake or two lol.
Very good looking work. Obviously you put some thought into it. What worries me is that socket that’s not plugged into anything. I don’t know want it’s for, possibly some accessory, but there/s no cover for it which there should be. If anything gets connected to it at some point, it won’t work.
There were a ton of exposed sockets like that under it. I am not sure if it was an oem harness or not but the wiring was pretty bad. Everything was zip tied and most of the ties were broke lol.
I sure hope so 😀. It’s sad to me how municipalities pay good money and get taken advantage of. Thanks to the repair books will be brought to kids for many years without failure 😀
OK, after reading Ford’s Body Builder Layout Book(many thanks to @mopartony for pointing this out!) I do understand what happened here in the first place: they’ve carefully read it and took every possible step to thrash it, literally EVERY POSSIBLE STEP 😅 Curiously enough, general knowledge about frame reinforcements added to the frame’s middle section is way off from official recommendations, I think I’ve never seen that someone used L-shaped brackets or applied skip/stitch welds to attach reinforcement plates, slot/plug welds are also not that common. Greg, thank you for sharing this!
Honestly I think what happened is they realized they didn’t fully weld it after the body was on it, and they hacked it together because accessing the top plate was too difficult to weld. They figured even though the top and bottom wasn’t welded that sheet metal patch was going to solve the issue. Literally 3 minutes is all it would have taken when the frame was exposed without the body on it. Instead it took me 8 hours lying on my back swearing to try to get it fixed better than it was lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgregHa-ha, that’s why I hate fixing someone else's errors, it always takes a tremendous amount of time. But still, how do they use C-channel with different dimensions or welding near rivets? It’s an error on the design stage. If it's a production error I don’t think that any sane foreman would take responsibility for that crap. It would be laughable(is it a right word for this?) if any other truck from that company would have the same thing with frame extension.
Hmmm, where do I start? First, it is a nice repair that you did. The original job was clearly insufficient. What I would like to talk about is the loads on the frame rail. First off, it is a beam. The primary stresses are due to bending. As a result, the maximum stresses occur in the top and bottom flanges of the beam. The bending stresses linearly decline to zero at the neutral axis. There is also a shear present in the beam. The shear load is often a minor component compared to the bending moment load. If anything, doubler plates should be installed on the top and bottom flanges. In order to accurately address the repair, a shear and moment diagram should be prepared in order that the stresses can be determined at the location of the repair. Allowance should also be included for dynamic loading and fatigue. There are a number of resources available on the web that cover frame design. Basic beam design and analysis is usually sufficient in order to evaluate a repair. As to the comments about high strength steels being used in a frame, if they are present, the frames are usually marked as to note drill, cut or weld on the frame rails. Also, an inquiry to the OEM will also yield a response as to the frame rail material. Don't get me wrong, I think that your work was well thought out and carried out properly. I just wanted to add what is needed in order to evaluate this type of repair.
Thanks for the tips 👍. I must have omitted it, but the top plate I welded in a strip after welding the frame together where it was butt welded. They only had a spot weld halfway on the top butt joint. I think they were going to plate the top and just forgot about it. The access was extremely difficult and I think what ended up happening was they put the body on and realized they didn’t finish welding the frame together so they threw that side plate on and said screw it. The back end of the new frame section had parts that were clearly cut on a shear and then parts that were really rough torch cut. I am thinking a bunch of mistakes were made and to get it out the door they hacked it.
Wow.. that was so so bad. Here in NZ most modifications on a vehicle such as adding a turbo, engine swapping in a larger capacity or powerful engine, modifying the body or cutting or extending frame rails etc require an inspection by a licensed inspector & If passed they attach a modification plate outlining the work on the firewall of the vehicle. All our vehicles that are older that the year 2000 & all trucks are subject to 6-monthly safety inspection & later vehicles a yearly safety inspection - if a vehicle fails its not allowed on our roads until the issues are fixed & it passes another safety inspection. This work would have never been passed & certified by an inspector here.
Here in Wisconsin there is no vehicle inspection unfortunately. The amount of sketchy vehicles on the road is pretty crazy. The only time there is a vehicle inspection generally is when you get collector or hobbiest plates, or “home built” titled vehicles. Beyond that you could drive down the street with broken frames/springs/etc lol. If they were to inspect all vehicles I bet 1/3 of the cars would be off the road immediately lol.
Yeah Greg, that looks fine for a bookmobile, but what if they're welding up Snap-On trucks like that? Those Snap-On trucks have a GVWR of at least 14.5K to maybe even 16000 lbs, and full of very heavy sockets and tools. Same with a fire truck. Those Snap-On trucks have to get to shops everywhere, even on bad roads out in the middle of nowhere, and heavy loads plus rough roads is a nightmare, frames crack on their own often enough as it is, once the salt gets a few years to bite into it in the salt belt.
I hope they aren’t hacking frames together like that bookmobile on everything else, but you have to wonder. You brought up a great thought, once the rust got to it the frame would have been smoked for sure. The vehicle only has 2500 miles on it and is far out of warranty (it drives to poor neighborhoods to hand out books). If that was a truck that saw use year round I am sure the frame would have failed already.
Wow! Whoever welds at that truck plant must have previously fixed the dodge I’m working on now! I’m dealing with an almost identical repair of a broken frame behind my steering box. I’ve got two other peoples attempts at fixing the mess to contend with… Let me assure you, you could have done much worse!
Man, if two repair attempts were botched, you know you have a hell of a problem to fix their work on your hands. I wish you luck, if you get frustrated during the repair make sure to take a break and tell yourself things will be ok lol.
Great videos, your videos are a big help to me trying to learn welding!! Ive watched alot of your videos and was wondering if you will ever put a face to the voice?
So I likely won’t show my face, here is the reason: I have been involved in some fairly well known projects and had some articles written about me. I generally avoid fame, and like to be able to go out without being recognized. A while back I did a interview on a restoration I did on a old school, and I had hundreds of people show up at my property wanting to meet me/talk with me and the tv news stations were trying to get me to go on air as well. Not only that but I had people coming up to me in public asking questions. That’s akward for me and I don’t like the spotlight. So somewhat concealing my identity and being an unknown is better for me. Especially with some of the restoration projects I am likely going to start soon 😀
@makingmistakeswithgreg thank you for your fast reply, very understandable!! Keep up the great video's and I'll keep watching them as I'm learning alot!!
Hello Greg, Hope you are on the mend. I have been seen ads for 'laser' welders recently. Welding underwater, etc. What is the scoop on them and what are they? Even saw one on the telephone for $169! Get well.
So the laser welders (the legitimate ones) are very expensive (think 7k+). They have a ton of capability on thin material, and the weld quality is good. They use normal fillers and use the laser as a heat source, so they function like tig. They are more controllable, precise, and faster than tig. The problem with them (besides the cost for legit ones) is to be safe they really require proper shielding in the area it’s used. If a person was not wearing protective glasses and walked by the welding operation they could be permanently blinded. This is reflected by the literal keyed safety systems and built in safe guards on the legit machines. They often have invisible to the eye light output which makes them even more dangerous. laser power they output is no joke. The long term issue with them is laser tech has existed for a long time. Downsizing it, making it more powerful, etc is not something that’s easy or affordable. So the machines will be limited on output power and size for a long time. Cost will be significant as well, and not likely to drop much. I don’t see much practical application for home use but in manufacturing absolutely.
I could have refused the job too, but if I wouldn’t have done it would have cost the city probably 3k and a 2 month wait to have the manufacture fix it. I knew they would hack it worse probably, so I accepted the challenge and did the best that I could with the situation. Definitely something I would pass as a side job though lol.
I wish I could have got a picture of the other side (between the drop down box and the frame). My phone has a broken lens so I can’t focus on certain things. It was so bad I think a chipping hammer would have cracked it off. The only thing holding it on was the plate on the inside.
Definitely. To think they had full access to weld everything on that easily at one point, and chose to do what they did. I almost think they forgot to weld it, realized it, and said screw it and left it.
Cheater Lens my Friend.....18:50......get an assortment so you can mix and match...... also a NERF football to put under your head for support, your neck will thank you...... that is the problem with getting old, eyesight, you are either too close or too far away sometimes......I use a Fibermetal Tiger Hood, with the flip up 2x4 lens so when in tight spots, I can flip up and look through the clear lens instead of the auto dark lens.....areas that you have no room to even flip a hood up.....bench work, and out doors.... I may use a 4x5 hood with auto dark.... .and always try and put some good light near the work area.....you have great light in your photos by the way........ appreciate you not just using on camera flash........a true artist you are....... wish I could send you some photos of some to the nutty places I get to weld.....sewer plants, ceilings in warehouses doing joist reinforcement for HVAC curb inlets [ a real pain] under trucks working on suspension parts......and being 72, this old body aint what it used to be... Keep on Keeping On Mr Greg......Paulie Brown. but if you have a spare 4 minutes, run this at 2x speed..... hope you like......ua-cam.com/video/cak5JhUUqvY/v-deo.html
The nerf football is a genius idea, I just ordered one on Amazon. I spent all day with no neck support and a football would have been great. Last thing I tried was cardboard rolled up and it caught fire lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg when your hot, your hot.........always enjoy all your videos......thank you, Paul......and remember, Fish Fry on Friday every week....the one thing I learned the week I spent at Lake Delevin.....
Been a mobile welder doing jobs like this for 10 years. Jobs like this suck hard and there is no way around it. Your welds look damn good for the conditions. Usually it’s everything you can do just to make welds without discontinuities much less make them pretty. These jobs rarely ever come out perfect. You did a great job on this repair. I think only thing I may have done differently was cut out the old patch on the 2nd side and just made it larger/better. But space restraints may not have made that possible. You made it better either way.
Tell you what though, no way I would have TIG welded all that. I don’t have the patience for all that. 7018 or dual shield off the LN25 would have been my method. Sparks burning you all day ain’t no fun, but at least it’s over 15x faster. I bet your whole body is smoked from that job. That’s a long time to be uncomfortable and in bad positions.
Don’t let anyone tell you anything they think you did wrong or should have done. 99% of anyone going to comment that could never have done half the repair you did and don’t understand what it took to do what you did.
I agree, 7018 makes some nice looking welds, but Greg didn't like the idea of running stick about 7 inches away from a plastic fuel tank. Probably at least 30 gallon tank too. One little red hot BB goes flying the wrong way, and you get incinerated.
@@brnmcc01 true, not sure if space would have allowed this, but I care some thin plate steel on my truck and I use it to block off areas to keep heat and spatter off of stuff. But yes welding next to gasoline would be sketch, I forgot about about that tid bit.
what a bastard of a job! Good on you for making it work! I'm an inspector for NYS and have had farmers bring in their own frame stretches on heavy trucks without welding the overhead on frame flanges, mig wire hanging out all over the place. Run-on and run-off tabs aren't even considered! People don't understand to never intersect welds on fishplates either-crack propagation is a real thing!!
What do you do when you see stuff like that? Do people actually fix it right? Here is Wisconsin anything goes, literally. If they did inspections atleast 1/3 of the cars would be off the road immediately lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg my only recourse is deny them an inspection sticker. Everybody likes to complain about DOT, but their roadside inspections do serve a purpose!
Nice work, Greg. A couple comments from this engineer- the frame rails carry stress at the top (compression) and bottom (tension) when loaded. As you go towards the center, they carry less and less until you get to the “neutral axis” of the beam which carries essentially no weight. So the fishplate that was only in the middle of the frame was doing next to nothing. Extending it towards the top and bottom was the right call. As was the avoidance of square corners and sharp edges.
The coating appears to be Ziebart, which will guarantee that the frame will rot out at least twice as fast as one that is “unprotected.”
Question, will it rust under the fishplate? (if the weld isn't watertight) Would it be sensible to paint the frame and fishplate with epoxy primer (apart from weld area) before welding it?
Apparently it will also guarantee That the truck will will be a total loss and burn to the ground if you weld near it once applied so you don’t have to be concerned about rusting out of rotting then also
@@RobertLukierski Almost certainly it will. But since Greg used the time tested “flame technique” to remove the Ziebart there, maybe not as fast as some of the other parts.
Top and bottom of these frame rails are called flanges
@robertlukierski The area behind the plate could rust, but given the thickness of metal and the fact I know the weld is water tight, it would require moisture getting in there for it to start rusting. The only way for that to happen is for a hole. At some point it would likely rust through a point where water could get in, but at that point the frame would likely be junk. On thinner material I would think it would be far more critical to coat the backside (like auto body). Thin steel will rust out in no time in comparison to 1/4.
Couple things I forgot to mention. I did put a 4inch strip of steel on the top rail on both sides and welded that. So ultimately it was fully welded as a but joint and plated on the top. I also believe that they forgot to weld the top and bottom. The torch cutting of the back of the frame rails in some spots and not others suggests they had some fitment issues and I think they finally got the box on and said screw it. The only reason I think it didn’t fail yet is due to the van having very little miles (it’s used to drive to areas to the kids). If it saw a fair amount of potholes or salt it surely would have failed.
For those wondering I did lift arc start and free handed the weld. It was probably one of the hardest jobs I had to do from a being cramped into something perspective. Imagine spending 8 hours crammed in where you can barely see anything and trying to put a decent weld down. I also cleaned off a bunch of the undercoating before welding. No joke, if you work on something coated with whatever that is be very careful. The coating might as well been lamp oil.
This is by far the best repair job, i`ve ever seen. I couldn`t do it like that.
You Sir are one of the best out there.
Thanks for the kind words 😀. It was an easy job in theory but the access made it far harder than it should be. That’s the hard part of doing repairs, it’s always on the least accessible area under the worst circumstances lol.
I do quite a few car and van corrosion repairs and the anti corrosion treatment by the manufacturer and later by owners can be a nightmare for fires. Also, wiring and brake lines you have to be careful about. I do Mig because my Tig skills are not good enough. If you are going to do work on vehciles folks, keep in mind grinder sparks and weld spatter will get into your helmet, gloves and overalls, I can guarantee you will get burnt to some degree or another and you will set fire to something. Keep a compressed air line to hand to extinguish fires and get on them fast.
A very interesting repait topic young man.
I have never seen something lite up like that coating. Grease and oil will catch and slowly burn. That stuff had spread to almost two feet away from where I started welding in seconds, and had a legit candle like flame. Everything about the job sucked, it didn’t help thinking about how at some point the body wasn’t on the frame and it would have been 100% accessible to do a good job lol.
I'm a retired electrical engineer, not a mechanical engineer, but I worked with a lot of mechanical engineers during my 35 year career. Your instincts about the generously radiuses corners being better than square corners and non square patch were right own. Sharp corners and cracks act as stress risers. They can raise the stress un a local area of metal to the point the metal will tear. A plate like yours doesn't have sharp corners so it doesn't have stress risers on the corners. Well done!
Thanks 😀. No doubt there is a reason so many weld on plates (be it heavy equipment or something load bearing) avoid sharp corners. Universally a square plate like they did on that frame screams amateur. Not to mention the starts and stops are guaranteed to be right on the corners. So you have a lack of fusion and likely a poor tie in at the worst possible place.
Makes you wonder if the frame extension was holding up the box body, or if the box body was holding up the frame extension? 🤔
That's what I was wondering.
lol I think it would be dependent on the road your driving on. Hit a speed bump and the body will hold the frame from coming up 😅
Coming from two generations of fab shop experience in truck frame modding for grain, gravel, fertilizer ect straight trucks from one ton on up to 25 yards plus dump/grain boxes ect. your diamond fish plate is spot on and proper. now go to 2016 Ford E-450 that carries our class C 28foot motor home, I went to the factory to see my rig being built twice (something they allowed) and in the beginning the frame strich was sent to an actual truck frame shop as per Ford upfit requirements (yes it was certified) to Ford spec. this is normal I guess on these cab chassis. they did a good job on my MH. as for that truck I would have reached out to Ford and see what they thought, or if the job was deemed dangerous take the facility to court and sue them to fix it properly. you got a lot of moving part's there but you did an excellent job with what you had to work with 👍
The company that did that made the half million dollar swat van, and atleast 3 other upfitted vehicles for the city I work for. They also made all the tool trucks (Mac, snap on, Cornwell) that deliver parts to the shop too. I am going to take a good look over those other ones in the future. The guy who found the frame in the video said it’s not the first time something like that was found. It’s good that he is thorough, most people would have never looked at that. That frame would have failed already if the vehicle was driven in winter. Pretty sad.
Get the OEM Body Builder manual for guidelines on proper frame extension design. Doublers or fishplate concept likely necessary.
Great suggestion and I will 👍👍
I don't know how that person got that job ! But I do know that what you did is much superior to what was done before ! I would feel much better driving around in that vehicle after you did your repairs ! I have been watching your program for a while and have found it very educating ! Thank you for sharing this job with us !
Thanks for the kind words. I have no doubt that the fact that vehicle is moved very little, stored indoors often, and doesn’t see salt/winter is the only reason the frame didn’t fail. A couple good years of salt and snow and it would have failed on some pothole no doubt. Pretty sad a company would let that out the door. I am
Just glad I was able to do the repair and basically save the city thousands of dollars in repairs. The library system has no budget so outsourcing the job would have put a hurting on it.
Nice work 👍
Thanks, you’re the man 😀👍
The old 1970s international harvester service manual gives instructions for welding heat treated frames. They say to use only an arc welder, never gas welding. The cuts are always supposed to be cut at 45 degrees and then reinforced with angle stock top and bottom. They say to drill holes in the reinforcements and plug weld it to the frame members. If you're interested I can send you a copy in PDF.
Those TIG welds look great. I like the weave cap.
Thanks. Since I was doing lift arc and had very little room to work, I didn’t want to do a two bead cap and spend even more time under it lol.
Killer job on that one Greg you got to put your designer tig touch on this one like your colored art stuff. I was in a hurry tho when I first welded this van up. Those little plates were all I cud find on the floor at the shop. Ogh and I had eye surgery that day I welded that thing up too, so I was only using one eye 👁️ also, but overall I thought it came out pretty damn good 👍. My first attempt at it using solder didn’t actually hold that box 📦 on the back but for like 30 min so we had to take her back off and get out the welder for a one eye special.
Haha that sounds about right lol. I honestly think everything they did was an afterthought and they forgot to fully weld it. They figured that out after the body was on the frame and their patch was the solution lol.
Excellent frame work. Frames usually rusted bad and arc seems better. Great welding
This is the only frame I have ever seen on something as old (I think it was at least 5 years old) that could even remotely be tig welded. Since it doesn’t drive in winter, is stored inside I believe, and doesn’t see many miles it was still in pristine condition. I really lucked out, if it had been rusty I would have definitely had to done some serious fire watch work, pull the gas tank, and had a very hard time getting in to weld. Getting a proper mig gun angle would have been almost impossible due to clearance (no flex neck gun). I would have had to stick weld it with rods broken in half. I got real lucky.
Can you imagine how much easier that would have been in the factory with no box, no fuel tank, no wiring, no undercoat, relatively clean metal, pre-cut fish scale? If you consider the amount of time that it took them to do what they did, I bet someone could have done it properly in 30 to 45 minutes more than they took. The problem isn't with the guy that did it because he's clearly not trained and has no idea. It's management. It needs to be made public who these a-holes are so everyone can look at their own frames I watch a UA-cam channel that's all about faulty RV construction. You should see what they're doing on their frames. Disgusting. These things are all on the road!
I got in a heated discussion a couple weeks ago with some people over frame welding and repair. A lot of people are under the impression that anyone who welds frames on vehicles is a certified welder and their work is somehow inspected. This simply isn’t the case and it’s a virtual free for all. Just like you said, when they had full access to everything it would have been a quick job to do right. I think they put the body on it and realized they forgot to weld the top and bottom of the channel. Rather than doing anything about that they just slapped a plate on
It and called it good.
I have heard the rv business is real bad with work. I have only worked on a few rvs and I have seen enough to worry about the quality. There are so many companies that make rvs that I know the market must be flooded with trash. Kind of like trailers lol.
THANK YOU GREG FOR SHOWING THIS...best wishes from Florida,Paul
My son drives a logging truck in the Pacific Northwest and those things get frame cracks a couple or more times a year. The only government regulations about the repair says something like, '... frame cracks are to be repaired according to mfr. specifications...' The fleet he works with are all from the late 80's - early 2000, the mfr. only requirements is just a fill material and maybe sometimes a mention about heat control to reduce post-weld cracking. As for certification of the weldor they only say the weld is to be performed by a weldor 'competent' in that process. So all these small operations can't afford a documented weldor to repair frame cracks and just do it themselves following mfr. guidelines.
Interesting and thanks for sharing. I bet those logging roads are tough on frames. What you described is what I have found in many cases, they often use a “best practice” clause which basically says what you said. From a standpoint of legality it would be very difficult for any inspector to verify a repair wasn’t a factory weld unless the work is shoddy. There are simply too many trucks and variables to know what is original and what’s not. A good example would be Garbage trucks I have worked on have tons of stuff I have never seen welded to a frame actually welded on.
Good to know. What I suspected but I thought they might have addressed the dangers better by now. Thanks again.
You would think they would have to meet some standard for frame work but clearly they don’t care lol.
Hey Greg, nice repair. Just wanted to mention (and some may not agree), but I also see a ton of shops that will "Z" cut a frame for splice or repairs. They totally miss the point about structural welding and lay in a big fat long useless weld along the neutral axes of the frame. I laugh every time I see it. All OEM frame repair manuals call for straight perpendicular cuts and welds. Never seen one that calls for a "Z" cut prep and weld. Just wanted to mention that. But back to your point, up fitters are the worst, I don't think I have seen one up fitter that complete a decent job, from fire trucks and ambulances to crew cab conversions, and hi-rail applications etc, all junk work. Hate to say it but may need more regulation for these clown up fitter shops.
Great thoughts and I appreciate you sharing them. I think the whole Z cutting is done for 3 reasons, based on what I have seen. 1) it limits how much of the vertical welds are in line. Because most people can’t vertical up mig weld decent, by having the up welds spilt if one cracks it probably won’t crack the other causing a complete frame break. Most people can run far more solid horizontal welds. 2) it self locates the frame if measured correctly. My guess is many people don’t measure correctly and it’s far from a perfect alignment anyway lol. And 3rd the assumption more weld gives less of a chance for a frame break. I am more of your thoughts, I rather just run a proper straight splice and plate it if needed. Ultimately bad welds are likely to fail regardless of where they are lol.
Those upfitters are bad, you’re not joking. Until my current job repairing stuff for a DPW I didn’t have much experience with upfitted trucks. I have seen a bunch of real bad RVs in the past but some of the stuff I have seen since starting my new job is just flat out sad. The quality difference between OEM and the upfitted trucks is night and day different.
I think you should stop second-guessing yourself; it is commendable to discuss your own faults, but look at what you did compared to the previous, and they had access 1000% better than you had prior to the box being installed. One idea of possible suggestion, when comparing a Fish Plate to a Flitch Plate, it is important to spread the stress out even across the plate, so maybe add some weld holes (much like a bung hole weld) where you weld the fish plate to the base material through a hole. Take the last image of your video...three or four holes on each side of the frame joint, fully welded, will be much stronger than the perimeter welds alone. It is JUST a suggestion, as I'm not seeing what you see. :)
Excellent thoughts and thanks for the kind words. Definitely will incorporate that in the future as needed 👍👍
If you think that frame is bad you should see the frame of a camper made by forest river! I just got done reparing four cracks in my camper frame. Only time and miles will tell how well I did.
I have heard horror stories of campers. Seems like standards don’t exist lol. If you prepped it and did a good job it should last. Maintenance is always an issue with campers though. Hard to find a decent brand.
Greg, some great photo documentation......really shows what's What.....
those are some nice TIG welds, especially considering the position you were in...
not like the Instagram Bench Top beauties that everyone shows.....this is Real World.....
As far as needing a bigger Gas Cup, I do not think that would make much difference on
carbon steel.....other than allowing you more electrode stockout, which I find handy for
being able to see the weld in difficult spots.....I use a #10 Furick Jazzy Gas Lens with great success...
on both carbon, stainless and aluminum...also the 8 and 12.....but sometimes on aluminum ,
just a #6 non gas lens, depends on what I feel like.....
I remember working at at shop that they told me on a fish plate, that if you did all around weld,
it would cause issues, but I cant remember the sides you weld, top/bottom or sides???
I agree with your use of TIG to keep from getting a spark shower......and also the safety issue....
Many truck frames are T-1 steel.....and it is strictly forbidden to weld on them [Class 8]
and not drilling through the top and bottom plates, only the sides......When I worked for
Volvo Corporate in the 1990's, they had a repair procedure for cross members, the cross member
came in two pieces, you riveted or Huck bolted or just bolted the ends to the frame and then welded
the middle section together......I think T-1 is about 120,000 ksi.....so it also needs high strength filler....
I used to do work on Auto Haulers....the big ones.....always used Stick [SMAW]....well one time,
they brought a unit into the shop, and there was not stick machine, [I usually did in the field]
so I used the shop MIG.....thought I did a good job......next week, truck came back and owner
was really mad, the weld repair I had done broke, lack of penetration........never again used MIG....
the car on top fell on the one below and did some serious damage......oh well....love and learn......
cheers my friend, Paul........
I got to pickup another #10 jazzy cup. I broke mine and have been without it since. I did weld all the way around the fish plate. I have seen big equipment not weld the ends (top/bottom was welded). I need to do some more research on this. I have a feeling part of it is on thick steel it would be more likely to have a crack spread around the front/back with a continuous weld vs separate. It would also be under far more residual stress after being fully welded I would think too. Your story about mig welding the frame is a valuable lesson and I can tell you’ve been around the block 😀. I always laugh when people say “I know what I am doing, I have never had a weld fail”. If you weld a lot you’re bound to make a mistake or two lol.
Very good looking work. Obviously you put some thought into it. What worries me is that socket that’s not plugged into anything. I don’t know want it’s for, possibly some accessory, but there/s no cover for it which there should be. If anything gets connected to it at some point, it won’t work.
There were a ton of exposed sockets like that under it. I am not sure if it was an oem harness or not but the wiring was pretty bad. Everything was zip tied and most of the ties were broke lol.
Thats wild dude and you crushed it my dude! Fantastic job !!!
Thanks 😀. I hope it’s a one off problem, because if that company is doing that kind of stuff I might have to send them a letter lol.
I really like your channel and the way you explain things. Thank you
You’re welcome, I am glad to share info 😀
Very nice. Thanks for sharing
22:00, is that a little snail checking out your modification.....he is cool looking
I bet he is thinking 'Look at that Escargo'
Nice weld job considering the restrictions. Should be much safer now, thanks for sharing Greg. 😎👍
I sure hope so 😀. It’s sad to me how municipalities pay good money and get taken advantage of. Thanks to the repair books will be brought to kids for many years without failure 😀
OK, after reading Ford’s Body Builder Layout Book(many thanks to @mopartony for pointing this out!) I do understand what happened here in the first place: they’ve carefully read it and took every possible step to thrash it, literally EVERY POSSIBLE STEP 😅 Curiously enough, general knowledge about frame reinforcements added to the frame’s middle section is way off from official recommendations, I think I’ve never seen that someone used L-shaped brackets or applied skip/stitch welds to attach reinforcement plates, slot/plug welds are also not that common.
Greg, thank you for sharing this!
Honestly I think what happened is they realized they didn’t fully weld it after the body was on it, and they hacked it together because accessing the top plate was too difficult to weld. They figured even though the top and bottom wasn’t welded that sheet metal patch was going to solve the issue. Literally 3 minutes is all it would have taken when the frame was exposed without the body on it. Instead it took me 8 hours lying on my back swearing to try to get it fixed better than it was lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgregHa-ha, that’s why I hate fixing someone else's errors, it always takes a tremendous amount of time. But still, how do they use C-channel with different dimensions or welding near rivets? It’s an error on the design stage. If it's a production error I don’t think that any sane foreman would take responsibility for that crap. It would be laughable(is it a right word for this?) if any other truck from that company would have the same thing with frame extension.
Hmmm, where do I start? First, it is a nice repair that you did. The original job was clearly insufficient. What I would like to talk about is the loads on the frame rail. First off, it is a beam. The primary stresses are due to bending. As a result, the maximum stresses occur in the top and bottom flanges of the beam. The bending stresses linearly decline to zero at the neutral axis. There is also a shear present in the beam. The shear load is often a minor component compared to the bending moment load. If anything, doubler plates should be installed on the top and bottom flanges. In order to accurately address the repair, a shear and moment diagram should be prepared in order that the stresses can be determined at the location of the repair. Allowance should also be included for dynamic loading and fatigue.
There are a number of resources available on the web that cover frame design. Basic beam design and analysis is usually sufficient in order to evaluate a repair.
As to the comments about high strength steels being used in a frame, if they are present, the frames are usually marked as to note drill, cut or weld on the frame rails. Also, an inquiry to the OEM will also yield a response as to the frame rail material.
Don't get me wrong, I think that your work was well thought out and carried out properly. I just wanted to add what is needed in order to evaluate this type of repair.
Thanks for the tips 👍. I must have omitted it, but the top plate I welded in a strip after welding the frame together where it was butt welded. They only had a spot weld halfway on the top butt joint. I think they were going to plate the top and just forgot about it. The access was extremely difficult and I think what ended up happening was they put the body on and realized they didn’t finish welding the frame together so they threw that side plate on and said screw it. The back end of the new frame section had parts that were clearly cut on a shear and then parts that were really rough torch cut. I am thinking a bunch of mistakes were made and to get it out the door they hacked it.
Great video even it is stills. You need a new sticker: Caution! Mad welder @ work!
Haha I need something like that.
Wow.. that was so so bad. Here in NZ most modifications on a vehicle such as adding a turbo, engine swapping in a larger capacity or powerful engine, modifying the body or cutting or extending frame rails etc require an inspection by a licensed inspector & If passed they attach a modification plate outlining the work on the firewall of the vehicle.
All our vehicles that are older that the year 2000 & all trucks are subject to 6-monthly safety inspection & later vehicles a yearly safety inspection - if a vehicle fails its not allowed on our roads until the issues are fixed & it passes another safety inspection.
This work would have never been passed & certified by an inspector here.
Here in Wisconsin there is no vehicle inspection unfortunately. The amount of sketchy vehicles on the road is pretty crazy. The only time there is a vehicle inspection generally is when you get collector or hobbiest plates, or “home built” titled vehicles. Beyond that you could drive down the street with broken frames/springs/etc lol. If they were to inspect all vehicles I bet 1/3 of the cars would be off the road immediately lol.
Great work sir!!!
Thanks 😀. Far better than what was there that’s for sure lol.
You should see the welds/frames on many “high end” sports cars like Lamborghini
Well, they are Italian after all!
You’re not joking, I have seen some lol. Price and quality don’t necessarily go hand in hand lol.
100 times better than before
I can sleep at night better that’s for sure lol.
Yeah Greg, that looks fine for a bookmobile, but what if they're welding up Snap-On trucks like that? Those Snap-On trucks have a GVWR of at least 14.5K to maybe even 16000 lbs, and full of very heavy sockets and tools. Same with a fire truck. Those Snap-On trucks have to get to shops everywhere, even on bad roads out in the middle of nowhere, and heavy loads plus rough roads is a nightmare, frames crack on their own often enough as it is, once the salt gets a few years to bite into it in the salt belt.
I hope they aren’t hacking frames together like that bookmobile on everything else, but you have to wonder. You brought up a great thought, once the rust got to it the frame would have been smoked for sure. The vehicle only has 2500 miles on it and is far out of warranty (it drives to poor neighborhoods to hand out books). If that was a truck that saw use year round I am sure the frame would have failed already.
Great work. Far better than what was there before, either way.
Taught this guy Everything.!!!
Wow! Whoever welds at that truck plant must have previously fixed the dodge I’m working on now! I’m dealing with an almost identical repair of a broken frame behind my steering box. I’ve got two other peoples attempts at fixing the mess to contend with… Let me assure you, you could have done much worse!
Man, if two repair attempts were botched, you know you have a hell of a problem to fix their work on your hands. I wish you luck, if you get frustrated during the repair make sure to take a break and tell yourself things will be ok lol.
Thanks for sharing !!!!
Must apreciate it
I learned to check stuff before the warranty runs out.
That’s the truth lol.
Great videos, your videos are a big help to me trying to learn welding!! Ive watched alot of your videos and was wondering if you will ever put a face to the voice?
So I likely won’t show my face, here is the reason: I have been involved in some fairly well known projects and had some articles written about me. I generally avoid fame, and like to be able to go out without being recognized. A while back I did a interview on a restoration I did on a old school, and I had hundreds of people show up at my property wanting to meet me/talk with me and the tv news stations were trying to get me to go on air as well. Not only that but I had people coming up to me in public asking questions. That’s akward for me and I don’t like the spotlight. So somewhat concealing my identity and being an unknown is better for me. Especially with some of the restoration projects I am likely going to start soon 😀
@makingmistakeswithgreg thank you for your fast reply, very understandable!! Keep up the great video's and I'll keep watching them as I'm learning alot!!
Re: hard corners - yeah, stress risers are a thing
No such thing.
Hello Greg, Hope you are on the mend. I have been seen ads for 'laser' welders recently. Welding underwater, etc. What is the scoop on them and what are they? Even saw one on the telephone for $169! Get well.
So the laser welders (the legitimate ones) are very expensive (think 7k+). They have a ton of capability on thin material, and the weld quality is good. They use normal fillers and use the laser as a heat source, so they function like tig. They are more controllable, precise, and faster than tig. The problem with them (besides the cost for legit ones) is to be safe they really require proper shielding in the area it’s used. If a person was not wearing protective glasses and walked by the welding operation they could be permanently blinded. This is reflected by the literal keyed safety systems and built in safe guards on the legit machines. They often have invisible to the eye light output which makes them even more dangerous. laser power they output is no joke. The long term issue with them is laser tech has existed for a long time. Downsizing it, making it more powerful, etc is not something that’s easy or affordable. So the machines will be limited on output power and size for a long time. Cost will be significant as well, and not likely to drop much. I don’t see much practical application for home use but in manufacturing absolutely.
25:00, one Beautimus Repair........
Looks good, bud. I would have to refuse the job..
I could have refused the job too, but if I wouldn’t have done it would have cost the city probably 3k and a 2 month wait to have the manufacture fix it. I knew they would hack it worse probably, so I accepted the challenge and did the best that I could with the situation. Definitely something I would pass as a side job though lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg looked like that was the correct choice. Nice to see people give a damn about their employer.
@7:17 looks like a mig weld to cast iron, i would not trust this hammer... 😆
I wish I could have got a picture of the other side (between the drop down box and the frame). My phone has a broken lens so I can’t focus on certain things. It was so bad I think a chipping hammer would have cracked it off. The only thing holding it on was the plate on the inside.
That’s crazy! 🤯 Somebody needs to go back to the basics.
Definitely. To think they had full access to weld everything on that easily at one point, and chose to do what they did. I almost think they forgot to weld it, realized it, and said screw it and left it.
They should really consider nuts and bolts instead!
Honestly that would have been a better solution compared to what they did lol.
Cheater Lens my Friend.....18:50......get an assortment so you can mix and match......
also a NERF football to put under your head for support, your neck will thank you......
that is the problem with getting old, eyesight, you are either too close or too far away
sometimes......I use a Fibermetal Tiger Hood, with the flip up 2x4 lens so when in tight
spots, I can flip up and look through the clear lens instead of the auto dark lens.....areas that
you have no room to even flip a hood up.....bench work, and out doors.... I may use a 4x5 hood with auto dark....
.and always try and put some good light near the work area.....you have great light in your photos by the way........
appreciate you not just using on camera flash........a true artist you are.......
wish I could send you some photos of some to the nutty places I get to weld.....sewer plants,
ceilings in warehouses doing joist reinforcement for HVAC curb inlets [ a real pain]
under trucks working on suspension parts......and being 72, this old body aint what it used to be...
Keep on Keeping On Mr Greg......Paulie Brown. but if you have a spare 4 minutes, run this at 2x speed.....
hope you like......ua-cam.com/video/cak5JhUUqvY/v-deo.html
The nerf football is a genius idea, I just ordered one on Amazon. I spent all day with no neck support and a football would have been great. Last thing I tried was cardboard rolled up and it caught fire lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg when your hot, your hot.........always enjoy all your videos......thank you, Paul......and remember, Fish Fry on Friday every week....the one thing I learned the week I spent at Lake Delevin.....