Wall Mounting Network Cabinet
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- Опубліковано 5 гру 2015
- Wall mounting a heavy network cabinet does not have to be a strenous task.
This video shows you how to prepare the mounting site ahead of time to allow for an easy installation. - Навчання та стиль
Studs! You need to secure your cabinet on at least one stud. Very important! Those snap toggles, not butterfly bolts, they may be rated for the correct weight, but how thick is your drywall? They can rip right through the wall if you under tighten them or if you over tighten them. Whenever hanging anything with weight, hit at least one stud. My boss would fire me for sure if I mounted a rack like that to a clients wall. I will post a video next week on my channel with the proper safe way to mount a cabinet to a wall. I hope yours does not fall down and I hope you don’t have many pieces of equipment in your rack.
Did you post it? I looked and didn't see anything
I appreciate you spending time on this instructional video, but I don't want other people to make a dangerous mistake.
If this is drywall, it's not meant to support heavy loads. Cabinets should really be lag-bolted into the wall studs. This installation may not be a problem now--and it may never be a problem--but, for sure, the next person that racks additional equipment will assume that it was properly mounted. Either right then and there, or later (over time), the drywall could fail and drop the cabinet. Best case scenario, you lose some equipment; worst case, someone loses his head.
I suggest remounting the cabinet for your own safety.
Good points. thanks for commenting.
Good point...I was reading the comments with that idea in mind...but a lot of offices have relatively fake walls maybe with light weight aluminum studs, what then? Let's assume it's an internal room with no outside normal walls.
Arkaine101 those snap toggle bolts he used in the video are rated for 100lbs each bolt. Those snap toggle bolts are used all the time for wall mounting heavy plasma TVs in drywall without studs. The mount will be just fine.
Hi I want to do this to but to the wall timber studs, in the rack it has to hold a 2960-S Cisco POE switch, those a little heavy, and a home router and single patch panel, will the timber studs be strong enough for that plus the rack? Should be but a little paranoid
Studs should be fine, would depend more now on the hardware you choose to fasten it with.
Short great video 👌 I am going to do it today 😁👍
did that cabinet help cut down on the fan noise of the devices?
Thanks for the video! I just bought a tripp lite rack/enclosure and I have been trying to figure out how the heck to wall mount it. this video helps but i think im gonna use the advise someone posted of using the wall studs. Glad you showed the mounting kit!
You want to mount at least to studs, Not those Drywall things no matter how much they say they can hold. It's not just the weight, but the pulling force from the rack sticking so far away from the wall.
I mounted in my small closet and the only stud I could use was in the middle. So I used 3/4" Birch Plywood, I got a piece from HomeDepot, didn't have to buy a huge full sheet. I cut it a little larger to the size of my Rack. Rounded the corners with a router, painted it to match the closet paint and Mounted it by predrilling into the middle stud and then using 3" Lag Bolts. I used 4 of them for my 8U Rack going down the middle. Then I mounted my Rack to that using smaller Lag bolts. 4 of them, one for each corner. Also Washers on everything. It's very strong and solid and going nowhere.
If you were mounting a heavy HDTV to your wall and it was close to the wall, then those Drywall Mount things would be OK. If your HDTV mount was one where you can pull your HDTV away from the wall, NO, those would not be what you want to use. You would want that mount, attached to wood studs on each side!!! Because as you move away from the wall, you don't only have the weight pulling down on the drywall, but weight pulling out, away, and that stress greatly increases the further out you go.
What this person did above, while it may be holding NOW with it empty. You start mounting things inside it, and the weight grows and grows. My 1U UPS is very heavy. My 6 HDD NAS is on the top shelf and every heavier. Throw on everything else,....
If it was a 1U maybe a 2U Vertical Rack. This is where your devices hang down vertical, not Horizontal like this rack. it's much closer to the wall and small and so Drywall Mounting would be OK. You have to be smart about things. Think it through. I had been planning what I wanted to do for my Network upgrade for about 6 months. How big of Rack could I use. What did I want to install into it. How I was going to mount it. Etc.
God bless you Sir
love the vids! Tk u bro!
thanks for the feedback! :-)
Even for more support, in addition to mounting it on the studs, use plyboard for extra support.
Daniel, I couldn't agree with you more. I was uncomfortable with this method. But, it was dictated by master contractor I was doing the install for. Surprising, those little Drywall lags are pretty tough. I think when they expand on the inside of the wall, they grab a lot of surface area.
Agreed, take the extra time to do it properly.
Better to to make new holes if necessary in the rack so that you can secure the rack to studs in the wall.
So you rather have it fall on top of them? Great Hitman execution
How long did it take you to discover you hung it upside down? Keyholes have the large hole towards down, and the small section towards top, so you push the enclosure over a bolt, then gravity pulls it down into the smaller part of the keyhole, snugging it up. You hung yours with the large part at the top......which is why you needed washers.
+Subparanon hey, thanks for watching and thanks for the comments. Are you in the industry? 😄
Didn't you watch the video from the beginning? The keyholes have a large hole with two small sections on top and bottom. I understand what you're saying with your comment, but that's not how the box is designed. Look at 1:07, you will see what I am talking about. So the screws, are in fact, resting in a smaller section. I agree with him that washers will help with this, as it will spread the pressure out.
Actually, if you looked closer, the smaller part is on both ends. Like many Racks, you can use them either way. My Rack I used, for example, has a hinge on one side, you can have the hinge on the left side or right right side depending on which way you mounted it. Since my Ethernet cables were coming in from the wall on the left side, I wanted the patch panels to swing out from the left side. Pull the screw from the right side, and it swings open from the hinge on the left side.
This inclosed case is the same. It has a Door on the front. You can mount it so the door swings open from the left or right side depending on which way it's mounted.
As for the Washers, He didn't have to use them, but the case is very heavy, and instead of relying on a thin lip around the top half of that bolt, using a washer makes for a much better hold and spreads out the force all around that washer for a better hold.
I thought about putting a piece of plywood behind it rather than relying on Anchors. Do you find them to be sufficient?
I like the plywood idea. 🙂
what are the deminsions of that rack
Patrick: that rack appears to be 12U, give or take. RackMountSolutions has that at 23.5" W x 26.64" D x 24.71" H, nearly 2 feet cubed. www.rackmountsolutions.net/kendall-howard-3130-3-001-12-12u-linier-swinging-wall-mount-rack-cabinet/
Bruh! It sent chills down my spine seeing you use those plasterboard mount. I have mine done with lag bolts. Was looking at videos as as I want to reposition it to a different wall and want to fix a noggin in. How is yours after 5 years?
Thanks for commenting. 2 things:
First, i have not been back to that location sonce I made tbat video (6yrs ago). Second, I think what is not in that video (I haven’t watched it in a long time) is that even after I mounted it with those special drywall fasteners, I went back again and added sheet screws through the back of the cabinet into the wood studs. 😊
How did you decide on what bolts to install?
those specific bolts were sent to me by the company that contracted me to do that installation.
Has it fallen off the wall yet? You can't hang a rack on anchors. It needs to be mounted to studs.
no, it hasn't fallen off the wall. I totally get the implications of mounting directly to Drywall. Two points, that must not be clear in the video (as I get this comment often).
1. Those anchors were specifically designed for this type of mount (into drywall) *AND* were specified by the master contractor on this job. So, if it falls, not my problem!
2. I did follow-up with SEVERAL 2.5" sheet screws which DID penetrate into the metal studs. So, even if the drywall anchors did nothing, the sheet screws are bound to the studs.
Thanks for the comment. It must not be clear in the video. :-)
It's not the normal weight, close in on the wall. It's that pulling force you are getting because the rack is so far away from the wall. If it was me, after seeing what YOU did, I would be using all Thread Rods, and mounting those up at the top front corners up though the drop ceiling to mounting points up above on Roof Studs or whatever. there's a number of ways to do it. You have that pulling force out there on the end wanting to rip it right off the wall. I would NOT have done that. Should have been mounted to studs, and if that wasn't possible, used 3/4" Plywood, going across and that mounted Bolted using Lag Screws tot he studs. Then when you're bolting up. You could have used those things, but going though the 3/4" plywood and then through the Drywall.
That things sticks out so much from the wall, I still would have mounted the top from corners using allthread. You can get them 10' long. I use them all the time at work. Cut them to the length you need. If you want that rack SAFE because it's completely unsafe right now. It may be holding but could come crashing down at any time. Using allthread to hold up the 2 top corners, furthest from the wall, and straight up and those mounted to something strong, and that is 100% doable, would make that rack 100 times safer.
"It's not my problem if it breaks" is the worst mentality in a professional setting, especially when concerning something as critical as data loss. That's downright shitty.
@@BossHossV8Cycles And it's far more than just data loss if a fully laden rack falls off the wall. It's a safety and liability issue if it happens to fall on someone. But it's "not his problem" so what could go wrong?
@@bsmith302 You are 100% correct. In addition to possible data loss or down time, im thinking about damage to the wiring in the back of it, and damage to the equipment inside of it. Then there's the risk of it falling onto other equipment or a even a computer console that may be beneath it.....And that's if their lucky.
If by chance someone is servicing any equipment, using a console or a copy machine that happens to be under it when it falls, that person can be seriously injured.
"Not my problem" is a terrible thing to say.
did you have to put any screws using the studs?
in addition to the special dry-wall lags I showed in the video, I did put some sheet screws through the cabinet into the sheet-metal studs in side the wall.
However, according to the manufacture of those drywall lags, that should not be necessary. But, like you, I was nervous! ;-)
Thanks for commenting.
That is not very strong!!! Not for the shearing force you have with that thing so far away from the wall. For me, the simplest fix would be using some allthread. You can find this at Home Depot and everything else you need. You cut to the length you need. You drill a hole on the 2 top corners furthest from the wall. You would use a nut at washer on the outside, and another washer and nut on the inside of the case the allthread is going though, and it'll go straight up through a small hole in the drop ceiling you have and into a solid mount on the roof beam. There are ways to easily mount the rods, even if the roof beams don't line up. When does, that rack would be 100 times safer than it currently is. Sheet-metal into the metal studs is doing very little. Almost pointless!!! Some 3/8" allthread should be large enough for your needs. Think of it as a very long bolt with no head on it. It's ALL THREAD!!!! We use this at work for everything. Because of the Ceiling in most of the factory rooms is 2 thin sheets of metal with Insulation in between. It's Held up by all thread to the main roof of the building. All the Refriguation units inside production mounted to that, are held up, not by that ceiling, but go up and though and mounted to the main Roof. In face everything has to be supported by the main roof by all thread. Not the Roof/Floor, depending on what side you are on. Anytime I have to mount something to the ceiling with any kind of weight to it, it's held up using allthread to the main ceiling.
For example, the 2 14 bucket scales we have, both have a Stainless Washstation around 2 sides, help up from the ceiling, using Stainless Allthread, but it really goes through that ceiling to the other side, where it's connected to normal Zinc Allthead to the real Roof of the building. So it the packaging room, it looks like it's hanging from the ceiling, but in reality, up above that ceiling, which is an insulated ceiling and the packing room is refrigerated to about 42 degree's, up above those rods are connected to other normal non-stainless rods as I don't need stainless above, and those are mounted to the real Roof of the building in whatever way is required as the beams don't normally line up. I'm standing on a allthread supported, insulated ceiling!!!
Another interesting thing. You know how the bathroom stall walls are normally supported by the wall and floor right? Not out bathrooms. The are supported by the wall on one end, but by the all thread that you can't see on the other end, above the drop ceiling. This leave no panels mounted to the floor. Works well. Easier to clean the bathroom as you don't have panel walls going all the way to the floor like with most all businesses.
It's really amazing what you can use allthread for. You really should be using it for your Wall Rack. The life you save may be your own.
potentially dangerous mounting install you have there. A little too much weight and the drywall/butterfly bolts will fail. Those things are fine for light duty shelves, but not a cabinet of equipment.
Price kya he boss
Is that drywall?? Or brick wall?
A stud or 2 would have been a good idea
do you know the name of this particular cabinet?
I may be wrong on the 12U size, but that's definitely a Kendall Howard (see 0:55). www.rackmountsolutions.net/kendall-howard-3130-3-001-12-12u-linier-swinging-wall-mount-rack-cabinet/
I believe it's the 9U model: www.rackmountsolutions.net/kendall-howard-3130-3-001-09-9u-linier-swinging-wall-mount-rack-cabinet/
what is the rack size. is this 6u?
I forget exactly. It was about 20 inches high if that helps.
www.rackmountsolutions.net/kendall-howard-3130-3-001-09-9u-linier-swinging-wall-mount-rack-cabinet/
Ya, I just installed a 8U into my small Closet. It was the largest I could really fit there. If I could have gone with a 10U I would have. Ya, each U is 1.75" My Cyberpower UPS is 1U. So anything you put into your rack is going to be 1U or 2U generally in size. So you need to figure out what you want to put into your Rack, and how much space you have to fit the largest rack you can. If you have extra room, great, you can block those extra spaces off which blank plates or ones with vent holes. Have space for anything you may want to do in the future. But you need to know what you are going to use and how many U large it is. A 24 port Patch panel is generally 1U, but if you want a 48 port Pack panel, it's generally 2U. But there are versions where you can get 48 ports in 1U, but those are a lot more money and harder to connect your cables to. Do you want a UPS? Mine fits in a 1U but selection is more limited, and so are battery's. You'll have more of a selection and longer battery life with larger batteries that fit into a 2U UPS.
So figure out what your needs are. What do YOU want to put into your Rack? How DEEP are the things you want to put into it? While 19" is the standard width, the depth can vary greatly. So add up all the U's you need at a minimum and what's the Max depth you need. Remember, the UPS also needs enough room on the back to plug cables into it!!! Then ses how much space you have to mount a rack. 20", 30", whatever. Only after you figure out how much U's you need at a minimum and how large of a rack you could install, do you then start looking for a rack.
Do you want just a simple basic rack? Do you want an adjustable rack? Do you want one with a hinge one side or a number of hinges? My 8U rack has adjustable sides to make it narrow to deep. Max Depth which is what I have it at is 13.5". It also has 4 hinges on 1 side. So every 2U is a hinge. I can swing out my 2 1U Patch panels on that 1 hinge. Do you want a more open rack or a fully Enclosed Rack? Maybe a Rack with a FAN for better venting? Is it deep enough for your requirements? Is there enough U's, maybe a couple extra, or more!!! How much are you willing to spend? I planned for 6 months and aquired what I needed over the months, with the rack being about the last thing I ordered. I knew how large of a rack I could fit, but saved that until I had everything else figured out.
Pro tip: If you need 4 of those anchors, buy 8. I always end up breaking one or two trying to insert them. Or maybe that’s because I’m not a pro. Can’t be sure.
Is this still hanging on the wall?
AFAIK. But since that was about 7yrs ago, it's likely that it's been replaced. 🤔
Not that it matters IMO but those Drywall Anchors look like TOGGLER SNAPTOGGLE's not KH's... The KH's cost a bit more but have a Circle finger hole at the top for a quicker tight/secure anchor... People looking to do this at home should compare both.... I wouldn't trust more than 100lbs hanging from that drywall though...
they made me nervous too, Michael. I'm not sure if I showed it in the video or not, but after the cabinet was mounted I went back and added some sheet screws into the metal studs behind the drywall for additional support. Thanks for the comment!
If you're an installer doing this in 2021; for the love of god stop mounting them at ceiling level (if you can help it). Think of the tech's that need to come in and work on one of these cabinets in the future. Standing on a ladder, rack mounting equipment is a pain in the ass.
There is no way I would mount my server to the wall without putting Lag bolts in studs.
What's a lag bolt?
I've used a chemical anchor just to be 100% sure to secure anything "rack" related
what size switch fits in there?
hi Caramelo. :-) standard 17in rack-mount style switches like Cisco 2960 or 3750. I think the cabinet was about 30 units top-to-bottom.
Minor clarification, that's 19" width. And I don't mean to be overly corrective, but are you sure it's 30 units? Each unit is 1.75" so that would be 52.5" tall or 4.5' tall. Maybe you were counting the square cage-nut holes where each unit (U) burns 3 of those--so, maybe it's a 10U cabinet. I was guessing 12U (36 holes) but hard to tell from the picture.
Thanks for the video. I've normally had my wire guy install a back-board into studs and will probably keep doing that but I love these TOGGLER strap toggles and now that I've found these Kendall Howard enclosed racks I'm going to use those in favor of my normal open racks that everyone complains about for letting all the noise out and for showing all the mess. ;)
I use Zxyel Switches. I just switched form s 24 port to a 48 port and it easily fits into my Rack which is only 13.5" Deep. I think this switch is just under 10" Deep. That's one thing you have to worry about with switches. Small Racks may not have a whole mlot of depth. As they get larger, they tend to get deeper and deeper. Mine is a Zxyel GS1900-48. This is a Managed Switch.
it looks as solid as mayonnaise
Do you have a isp?
This particular customer was using T-1 and MPLS for all its locations. But that got put in several days after I was done.
Thanks for asking! 😀
OMG That things hanging on 4 toggle bolts only! Yikes. I'll bet if someone loads that rack it will eventually pull away from the wall leaving new holes that are very large.
I guess maybe I didn't explain it in the video. But IN ADDITION to those original 4 dry way bolts, I also added several 2" sheet rock screws that went into the wood studs.
Because yes, I would have trouble sleeping knowing that was all there was . 🤔
You are going to kill someone will that. Screw it into something structural, not drywall.
Yes, I get that comment often. I guess what isn’t in that video (or people are not noticing) is that i added several screws that went directly into the sheetmetal studs. 😀
Is it just me, or did he hang this upside down?
Hmmmm... 🤔
dangerous i think...
"So I've got this big black (fill in the blanks)."
Haaaa!!
Everything about this video hurt my brain. I don't even understand the point of this video if you didn't show the end result of the job. Was this an advertisement for the wrong way of mounting a rack on a wall, and then you ended the video? How on earth do you have 17k subs? Are 16.9K of them russian bots?
You should be happy YT removed the dislike button, because i'm betting the like:dislike ratio is 1:100 minimum.
Thanks for your helpful feedback 😊