Step By Step TDI Swap - Part 5 : Fuel System
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Can you use the stock Jeep fuel pump? Do you need to run a return line? What about a lift pump? Fuel pressure regulator? What size fuel lines? This time we're talking about fueling, and what modifications are necessary, as well as some options for running a lift pump. There are many options and you fuel system can be as simple or as fancy as you want it to be. Let's dive in!
Part 1: • How can a 1.9L replace...
Part2: • Step By Step TDI Swap ...
Part3: • Step By Step TDI Swap ...
Part 4: • Step By Step TDI Swap ...
Part 5: • Step By Step TDI Swap ...
Part 6: • Step By Step TDI Swap ...
Part 7: • Step By Step TDI Swap ...
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This product is meant for entertainment purposes only. Your mileage may vary. Do not try this at home. Void where prohibited. Some assembly required. For off-road use only. Slippery when wet. Batteries not included. Do not use while operating a motor vehicle, heavy equipment, cherokee XJ, wrangler TJ, wrangler JK, or any Jeep vehicle, especially the newer Fiat ones. How-to videos may be too intense for some viewers and children under 30 years of age. Please remain seated until the 4x4 ride has come to a complete stop. Studies have shown viewing these videos causes increased cancer risks in laboratory test people. I am not a professional, I have no training, I'm not even particularly good at horse whispering. Don't believe everything that you know. Please keep your hands in the vehicle at all times. Do not tap on glass. Do not eat anything that has been on the floor for more than 3 days. Keep your hands to yourself. Not to be taken internally. Reproduction strictly prohibited. Driver does not carry cash. Objects in Bleepinjeep mirrors may be farther than they appear.
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Just to clarify why I've chosen to run the AirDog: I am currently running a custom Stage 4 tune from Malone Tuning and a larger turbo and injectors making an estimated 175 HP/300 TQ. At this point is where your ALH injection pump will begin to starve of fuel supply at higher RPMs (3200+) so I needed a lift pump
Jon are you using a 10mm or 11mm injection pump?
@@xkeister07x 11mm
I like how the longer the video goes on the more exhausted Jon looks 😂 seriously good work though! I've been keeping up with your build!
Dang man I was looking this up to do in my 99 Ram 1500 get like 30mpg!
2020 goals.... Tdi swap my xj! Outstanding build guide video series! Thank you for creating this i didnt know the kit from td conversion even existed. Keep up the great work!
It's 2021. Did you do the swap?
Missed this project. Glad to see it back
My 93 cherokee had a fuel return to the gas tank from the engine. When that cherokee rotted apart I swapped the motor and trans into a 96 with no motor. I had to get a fuel rail from the junk yard to make it work.
Such a sick XJ 🤠👍
Thanks Shaun! Hope to meet you some day and do some BC exploration together :-)
@@DRTJon likewise! 👍
Another option is the Jeep Liberty CDI 2.8ltr diesel in tank fuel set up. Has feed and return line on it. Seems they fit right into most Jeep tanks though you may have to shorten it up . CDI tank appears to be little deeper. Maybe one could swap parts between XJ or TJ and Liberty one?? not sure there
the stock 4.0 pump on a yj is 40 gph. that 1.9L is 33% more efficient than a 1.9L gas. You'll literally be using only about 1/4 of that $600 pump's potential maybe not even that!
TREVOR DAVIS that’s amazing. Thanks for sharing those specs! As I say in the video it’s ridiculously overkill but for a used one it was a no brainer. I wish someone made a smaller pump with the same concept as an AirDog.
Love these vids keep me coming I need this information for my tdi ranger swap ! Love the work ! Probably going ALH. Keep up the good work
Nice!!!
Personally would have gone for a sump vs a draw straw
This fellow is no longer with Bleepin Jeep far as I can tell. Does he have his own channel now or is there any other way to contact him.
SORRY BRO.......not pertaining to this vid but I could use some help. I just have the rubicon express short arm 3.5 on my 98 xj, 31s with 30psi......... super old pro comp oil shocks.........when I hit small bumps, cracks, or pot holes, it’s like getting hit by a train. Can the old ass shocks be doing that, and what bushings could be doing this too? Any help greatly appreciated.
Jbird if you’re running the 3.5” without any added spacers etc it should ride pretty decent. Very similar setup to what I’m currently running. I would start with the shocks. Could try running your tires at a lower PSI too and see if that helps any. IMO worn bushings only really would show adverse effects as clunks or looseness leading to death wobble. If quality shocks help but not enough you could look into a softer coil spring up front
@@DRTJon gas or oil shocks bro?
Gas
@@DRTJon ok ill try em. Some ppl are telling me they will run stiffer, others say they are better. Its a daily driver. Appreciate your help.
Why would you have to modify the regulator??? Keep hose straight is easy.
anyone know specs / conceptual design of fuel pressure regulator?
I can blow and suck thru my regulator. (but it could be bad) and there is no electrical connections, so it would appear to me that the regulator is fully mechanical.... sooooo what is it regulating?? preventing over-pressure? Under-presser? ... tries to maintain a constant-pressure?? Is there a bladder inside??? one could poke holes in???
Reason I ask is.. if the regulator does nothing much about low pressure... then why not use the regular to attach the fuel pick up hose to in lew of fabricate a peace as done later in this vid. Generally a Diesel pump on many diesel engine is not High pressure GPH. like on Fuel injected petrol cars. Definitely not my MB OM617. For example external inline electric pumps for my engines should not go beyond 9psi.
side note- JEGS has a good write up on how a Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) works. hmmm. seems they regulate a MAX pressure. Our diesel pumps on the engine; or an aux. pump in line... like he mentions here have a Max at 10psi so it is well below the max pressure of the FPR in the tank. Only thing am seeing is if the FPR is actually bad (it is also a check valve ability) it may let fuel drain back into tank; making for hard starting cause of loosing prime.. That is solvable with an inline check valve. Just put it in an easy to get to place so you can remove and clean easy.
This jeep looks like Matts banana from winder towing.
Walter Whitman people say that a lot. The only real similarity is the model and color haha
You put a lot of work into this. That’s not unnoticed.
Can't wait to see the rest.Please don't make us wait another year...lol...
Have mercy it has not been a year since the last video bro! Next video will be up in March :-)
Very informative thanks
Glad to see you're still around!
I’ve been trying to figure out what swap to to on my 99 2 door and I think this is it. I want better low end torque hp doesn’t matter too much to me. Just want to crawl. This is a different swap compared to most people with their LS style swaps. It came down to this and a 1UZFE but mating my AX-15 transmission on this motor is far better and I’ve always had a soft spot for diesels. Granted a daily an LMM duramax. Hoping to find a donor within the next year to start this. I’ll be picking your videos apart piece by piece along with the forums. Gonna be an interesting adventure but I’m stoked for it.
I am putting a diesel in my jeep TJ. I used the JB conversions kit that utilizes the tank pump and pumps it to the mechanical lift pump that's attached to the engine.
It uses a 5 PSI check valve that returns to the tank. The mechanical pump then feeds the lift pump from the 5 psi pressurized line. What are your thoughts on this?
The engine is a 4bt cummins.
A day late and a dollar short now your done . But it would have been simpler to return the fuel through the filler neck , you could weld a 90 pipe inside. I think the placement of the vent hose is too low in the gas door for deep water crossing . I would at least put a 1 way check valve in that line and extend the line to roof height. Air rushing pass the open vent line will siphon out fuel vapors so a second check valve up high in the opposite direction is a idea you can try.1 to stop water coming in and 1 to stop vapors coming out freely
Jon, where did you source the UMP air filter? I can't find anything on the web.
Is there a "part 6" to the build for a wrap up?
Ki Chun there will be part 6 next month, part 7, then wrap up
I have been waiting so long for this video to come out! Like you, I'm doing this swap with an ALH, but to my '95 Ranger with a Malone stage 3 tune. I'm really really hoping to not have to get an Airdog system right at the get-go, seeing how it's quite expensive. Very good unit, but expensive.
Start with just the lift pump and you'll be in good shape for Stage 3. Just use a piece of rigid tubing for a draw straw/suction tube and it will work great! You can start using the stock filter or an inexpensive CAT/Donaldson filter adapter and always upgrade later. In a pickup truck I'd expect you have more mounting options for a frame mount of a future lift pump
@@DRTJon Good to know I don't absolutely the Airdog system yet. I do have much more space for a frame mounted pump and filter. I don't mind spending some money on a lift pump/filter assembly. I saw some good words written about the Nicktane system. I don't know if a CAT/Donaldson filter is better to go with, so I appreciate any and all words of wisdom you have on that.
@@RyanWithAviators I had the Nictane setup at first and it was great for Stage 3. You can choose their filter or a CAT or Donaldson filter with it. it's nice and simple and I had it mounted right where my AirDog is now
@@DRTJon That's great to hear! Last question I can think to ask at this point is have you had any issues with your lift pump having trouble picking up fuel from the tank since it's "uphill" from the tank? I've heard that pumps should be gravity fed as much as possible, space permitting, since they're generally not designed to draw fuel as much as they are designed to pump it.
I have not had any issues with it. I even primed the pump in the video with dry lines and 1/4 tank of fuel in the tank. It is made to draw fuel not to be a sump so I expect it will be fine working this way for a long time to come
Can you use the factory jeep pump as a lift pump?
No (well you can, but it won't last very long).
The Jeep pump is designed to pump gasoline, which is quite thin and has a viscosity about 60% that of water. Diesel fuel has a viscosity about 3 times that of water, and gets like syrup at lower temperatures. The pump will burn up unless it's designed to pump that.
Love your channel I'm a jeep guy thru and thru. You guys inspired me to start my own channel, I only have a few videos up right now and need to learn the editing but come check it out. And if you could show some love and subscribe to another jeeper I'd appreciate it
Cool! Turn that phone sideways on the next one!
Are there 4 previous parts?
Yes there's a playlist called Project Spool Bus
Wish I had this much time.
Me too LOL
Dang I was thinking about doing this in my 99 Ram 1500 and get like 30mph with 300ftlbs of torque
I'd be very surprised to see 30 MPG out of a 1500 pickup cranked up to 300 Ft Lbs I see about 28-30 with my XJ weighing around 3650 with me in it. I'd speculate you could expect around 25 though which is still fantastic. Realistically in a vehicle that size a tiny engine is not the most efficient choice.
This is really kool man. It sukks living in Kommiforniastan. Not sure how hard i would need to get raped by the lokal magistrate to swap, if legally possible at all. But none the less, thank you for this presentation/tutorial of sorts.
I don't know much about Cali emissions but here's my limited understanding for swapping in a 2006 or older TDI. You need to swap all the emissions equipment with it, and you want the donor engine to be from the same year of vehicle as the recipient or newer. Emissions equipment for these is simple, basically it's an EGR system and a DPF (catalytic converter) if you start with a donor car that passes smog in CA then basically just don't delete any of the emissions equipment and you'll be fine. You'll of course want to get your most concrete info from an actual smog ref in your locale before starting your swap
@@DRTJon
Wow. Thanks man. That was well explained. Have a great day. :)
I have a 1982 CJ7 with a 4.2 and it has a fuel return line off the fuel filter.
Carbureted engines would likely all have a return line yes
who made your wire harnnes for the alh i have a 2000 jetta tdi its my daily but i would like to put it in a mj or xj and daily it thank you for your time and answer
talk to David Marshall at Fast Forward Automotive, I talk about this in the intro episode
@@DRTJon okay i never saw the 1st one or i may have along time ago i thank you tho for the info
What did you use to crimp the blue lines?
there is no crimp they are just a stretch fit over the barbs. You have to oil it as I said, sometimes a little heat helps too
Where are the rest of the build videos
Joe Ganz look at our playlist section it’s called “project spool bus”
Guys who build semi trucks use fass lift pumps just sayin
All depends who you ask. My understanding is AirDog was the first to design a system that de-aerated diesel fuel like this
@@DRTJon if your concerned about air get a holy fuel mat
@@soggybottomboys2792
Edit: On second glance, Holley Hydramat is a no-go. It isn't designed for oily liquids and they say it can't be used w/ diesel.
I Definitely will look into a Holley Hydramat. Given that the fuel tower/sending unit acts as a reservoir, if you draw from underneath like at 19:41 you aren't storing it in the tower any more and you pickup whatever is available in that spot. -The Hydramat looks promising, looks like it draws the fuel even if only a tiny corner is touching.- Good stuff man.
How did the AC go?
the components fit, I have not yet connected the hoses and charged it
Any plans to do a MPG test?
Jeremy Rhodes I’ve averaged 28.5 MPG over 11,000 miles
Jon BleepinJeep better mpg numbers then new diesel trucks lol