This video is just great! I often see training videos that I cant "use" because I am not so strong as those guys. But seeing Maddy and hearing that it is new for her helps me a lot both in designing my training and mentally :)
Seeing the “9c climbing test” videos coming out recently, it makes me wonder how much front lever strength really helps ability to climb hard, as some people seem pretty damn strong at climbing, but struggle to do front levers. Have you found/looked for any link between front lever ability and climbing strength/ability? Also - I enjoyed this format of video. Good to see how you guys structure sessions. Good idea on the half hangboard session, I will for sure be doing that in future!
Probably not that much, Adam Ondra was able to climb 9b+ before he was able to pull a front lever. Deadlifts might be a more relevant exercise since you very rarely need to pull a front lever to stick a move whilst climbing.
I think the real question is: what counts as a front lever? Calisthenics front lever vs climber's front lever are certainly not equal. I think the movement of pulling to your waist in the front lever is not replicated much in climbing, as once you are below your chest you start to push down more than pull.
It's also common to see people able to do front levers and are not "great" climbers. If front lever doesn't make you improve your core strength, try dragonflies, or abs-wheel, TRX etc. Usually front lever is the gold standard for core strength. I'm assuming Adam Ondra already had an enormous core strenght before doing this exercise. He probably used other tools/exercises for core training.
@@sigmastodon Wow the disinformation. I m not accusing you btw, this video does the same mistake! Front lever, dragon flags and "abs"-wheel have very little to do with core, everything to do with back strength.
Enjoyed this! Appreciate you guys sharing some of your thoughts regarding your injuries, weaknesses, goals and then taking us through one of your training sessions. Would gladly see more of these 'normal' training sessions :))
Already saw a similar comment about the content, but just wanted to say filming your own sessions is awesome. Hope it is just as fun for you guys, because it was great to see you climbing and training! Thanks
Already saw a similar comment about the content, but just wanted to say filming your own sessions is awesome. Hope it is just as fun for you guys, because it was great to see you climbing and training! Thanks. Edit - laughed so hard on the bit with the music @8:00!
Maddy, i really would love to have a warm up routine video with you about 25 minutes? i think i always forgot some parts to warm up before training. love your pull up trainig video for beginners, thank you so much!
Good tip about half sessions. I do three max hang reps on my Moonboard days. The warmup is using counterweights and a pulley on my fingerboard. Start with -30kg, and work to body weight, then body weight plus.
What are your thoughts on the pros/cons with weighted hangs VS smaller edges(at body weight) when increasing difficulty for hangboard workouts? Cheers!
Smaller edges are for sure much harder on skin, and are more conditions dependant. I also find that strength on large edges doesn’t always correlate with strength on small edges. 2 months ago after a long time outdoor climbing, I was about 15kg weaker on 20mm, but felt as strong as ever on micro edges, even in the same grip position
Great video once again. There were two good example of solid climbing sessions people should do to actually improve. Side note, minor detail: Ollie, you shouldn't lower as much the bar when you do overhead press. You should lower as much as your hand can do in the same position but without weight. The weight makes your hands go almost at chest level. Naturally you can't drop your hands as low as this! Try to fake the movement of overhead press without any weight in your hands and see where you can go, that should be the lowest position you should do with weight. Hope this makes sense, not pretending to teach anything here, just help
Can I just ask a question, and this isn't a slight on Maddy at all because she's an amazing climber, but how is it that she's climbing such hard grades without being mega strong? Surely crushing E9 6c, but max hanging at +18kg/ working up to doing front-levers doesn't match the Lattice algorithm? I'm pulling harder than that and my assessment put me down as expected for my grade, which is a long way off that level! Does it just down to supreme levels of endurance, good movement and tactics etc?
It ALWAYS comes down to the whole profile (inputs and outputs) of a climber. So for example, Maddy is a real 1%er when it comes to mindset, tactics & technique. There are VERY few who match her on that front. You’ll always see this in climbing where people sit on the spectrum. If you put Maddy (or others in similar profile) on a route where mindset, technique, tactics are much less useful, then she’ll have a much harder time! It’s why you get climbers who climb 8-whatever in one style and can’t touch them in others. Hope that helps explain!
Huge ups from São Paulo, such good enviroment on the video! Whats the music title?! loving the content as usual, thanks :) also, really nice to understand the subtleties of how tho choose the order of problems to train on for exemple
Hi great Video. Practical and "feet on the floor" stuff....so its great to see how you train and entertaining...for sure you did it on purpose the second time...curious as to how long the session was, including tea break...did you eat biscuits! If you do more like this I will watch them....
Yes please, there’s to many climbing videos out there with sends and no failure. I love to see the odd video with 20 falls before the send of a problem. Warming up is also rare to see, and long christmas socks, but thats more real than sends only. Makes me feel normal.
Any front lever work has everything to do with straight arms back strength and close to nothing to do with abs. One thing is for sure, hanging L-sit raises and holds are much more core intensive then the front lever
Great content! I was wondering whether Maddy's program wasn't a bit intensive on the lats? campusing, boardclimbing and frontlevers all use the lats quite a bit.
I think it'd be really cool to get you to review the high school booking anime Iwakakeru :3 since that's what's gotten me interested in bouldering as a noobie
wooo i'm on the front liver grind too :D the resistance band makes me feel like i'm actually getting somewhere altho i'm not sure i am hahahaha (nah, i must be!) :D
I currently can only go to the climbing gym once a week. Do you have any quick suggestions on how to schedule training? I do have a hangboard and pullup bar
Hey Lattice, how would one train to get a high feet? For taller climbers, it's often difficult to get one's foot on higher footholds. Is this a flexibility thing, or a hip mobility thing? Thanks!
I am 2m tall and think it's both, I do yoga to work on both the back line flexibility and hip flexor strength (especially at the very top of the range of motion) to get my toes up.
Hangboarding....i do the repeaters (like 7 on 3off, 7on, 3off,7on, 3off - and thats a set. Maybe i do like 6 or 7 sets). Is adding weight but lowering time better? Still repeaters? Im just looking to increase finger strength but didn’t think about using weights ever. Thoughts?
Great video! Thanks for sharing :) 16:20 I'm not entirely sure, but from what I've heard, it seems really important to straigthen your arms on this exercise in order to take the most out of it. (same goes for 17:12)
It's not as important as you might think - the key really is the intensity at which you're working the key muscle groups. A big argument for why obsessing over "form" in a lot of climbing exercise is that ONLY being strong in a certain plan of movement (or angle of joint) is less transferable into climbing. We'd actually much rather see climbers use (and be strong) in a variety. The same goes for the shoulder positions and grip positions on a fingerboard. There's a bit of dogma in the S&C culture around this, that we don't find entirely useful when it comes to building really good athletes (rather than just gym beasts). Hope that helps!
Yes please keep up with filming your climbing/ training sessions
I find these the most entertaining videos!
Ok we will do!!
Make any videos you like, as long as Maddy is in them, she's great!!
Yup.... we're 100% thinking the same... more of Maddy coming!
More content like this! Especially with Maddy!
This video is just great! I often see training videos that I cant "use" because I am not so strong as those guys. But seeing Maddy and hearing that it is new for her helps me a lot both in designing my training and mentally :)
Another vote for Maddy, she's great, really down to earth and relatable
More board workouts please! It’s a huge help to us home wall users
More board workouts please, and yer this was a fun video.
Seeing the “9c climbing test” videos coming out recently, it makes me wonder how much front lever strength really helps ability to climb hard, as some people seem pretty damn strong at climbing, but struggle to do front levers. Have you found/looked for any link between front lever ability and climbing strength/ability?
Also - I enjoyed this format of video. Good to see how you guys structure sessions. Good idea on the half hangboard session, I will for sure be doing that in future!
Probably not that much, Adam Ondra was able to climb 9b+ before he was able to pull a front lever. Deadlifts might be a more relevant exercise since you very rarely need to pull a front lever to stick a move whilst climbing.
I think the real question is: what counts as a front lever? Calisthenics front lever vs climber's front lever are certainly not equal. I think the movement of pulling to your waist in the front lever is not replicated much in climbing, as once you are below your chest you start to push down more than pull.
It's also common to see people able to do front levers and are not "great" climbers. If front lever doesn't make you improve your core strength, try dragonflies, or abs-wheel, TRX etc. Usually front lever is the gold standard for core strength. I'm assuming Adam Ondra already had an enormous core strenght before doing this exercise. He probably used other tools/exercises for core training.
@@chino2506 Those are front lever pull ups, not what we re talking about
@@sigmastodon Wow the disinformation. I m not accusing you btw, this video does the same mistake! Front lever, dragon flags and "abs"-wheel have very little to do with core, everything to do with back strength.
Watching your training sessions and hearing about how you approach your training is great. Love the content. Thanks team
Enjoyed this! Appreciate you guys sharing some of your thoughts regarding your injuries, weaknesses, goals and then taking us through one of your training sessions. Would gladly see more of these 'normal' training sessions :))
Yes, please, more training and projecting videos! Thanks guys!
Already saw a similar comment about the content, but just wanted to say filming your own sessions is awesome. Hope it is just as fun for you guys, because it was great to see you climbing and training! Thanks
It’s not a Lattice video without Ollie barely being able to contain himself at the thought of a cup of tea is it 😂
Already saw a similar comment about the content, but just wanted to say filming your own sessions is awesome. Hope it is just as fun for you guys, because it was great to see you climbing and training! Thanks.
Edit - laughed so hard on the bit with the music @8:00!
Thanks for the feedback!
Really good fun enjoyed how you mix the different training types into one session thank you 🙏
Maddy, i really would love to have a warm up routine video with you about 25 minutes? i think i always forgot some parts to warm up before training. love your pull up trainig video for beginners, thank you so much!
Good tip about half sessions. I do three max hang reps on my Moonboard days.
The warmup is using counterweights and a pulley on my fingerboard. Start with -30kg, and work to body weight, then body weight plus.
What are your thoughts on the pros/cons with weighted hangs VS smaller edges(at body weight) when increasing difficulty for hangboard workouts? Cheers!
Smaller edges are for sure much harder on skin, and are more conditions dependant. I also find that strength on large edges doesn’t always correlate with strength on small edges. 2 months ago after a long time outdoor climbing, I was about 15kg weaker on 20mm, but felt as strong as ever on micro edges, even in the same grip position
we've got a video coming on this :-)
Amazing! Looking forward to it
Love it guys. 👍🏻
It’s good to see a bit more insight into “real” day to day training as opposed to more guys doing pinkie front levers. 😂
Lots of good tips in here!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video once again. There were two good example of solid climbing sessions people should do to actually improve. Side note, minor detail: Ollie, you shouldn't lower as much the bar when you do overhead press. You should lower as much as your hand can do in the same position but without weight. The weight makes your hands go almost at chest level. Naturally you can't drop your hands as low as this! Try to fake the movement of overhead press without any weight in your hands and see where you can go, that should be the lowest position you should do with weight. Hope this makes sense, not pretending to teach anything here, just help
it was cool guys! thanks!
Great video! Would love to see more of this and hear more about how to make your own training plan
Can I just ask a question, and this isn't a slight on Maddy at all because she's an amazing climber, but how is it that she's climbing such hard grades without being mega strong? Surely crushing E9 6c, but max hanging at +18kg/ working up to doing front-levers doesn't match the Lattice algorithm? I'm pulling harder than that and my assessment put me down as expected for my grade, which is a long way off that level! Does it just down to supreme levels of endurance, good movement and tactics etc?
It ALWAYS comes down to the whole profile (inputs and outputs) of a climber. So for example, Maddy is a real 1%er when it comes to mindset, tactics & technique. There are VERY few who match her on that front. You’ll always see this in climbing where people sit on the spectrum. If you put Maddy (or others in similar profile) on a route where mindset, technique, tactics are much less useful, then she’ll have a much harder time! It’s why you get climbers who climb 8-whatever in one style and can’t touch them in others. Hope that helps explain!
What's the mammut zip up that Maddy's wearing? looks so nice! This was a great video too, thanks guys
Enjoying this content - Production and shots keep improving also
Excellent! More please
great video! thanks from Chile :)
are you going to release that t-shirt Oli is wearing? Looks very slick :)
Huge ups from São Paulo, such good enviroment on the video! Whats the music title?! loving the content as usual, thanks :)
also, really nice to understand the subtleties of how tho choose the order of problems to train on for exemple
Hi great Video. Practical and "feet on the floor" stuff....so its great to see how you train and entertaining...for sure you did it on purpose the second time...curious as to how long the session was, including tea break...did you eat biscuits! If you do more like this I will watch them....
nice wooden holds - could you point me to what brand/make those are? looks perfect for my home wall!
Yes please, there’s to many climbing videos out there with sends and no failure. I love to see the odd video with 20 falls before the send of a problem. Warming up is also rare to see, and long christmas socks, but thats more real than sends only. Makes me feel normal.
"Our home board"! I knew they were a thing.
Any front lever work has everything to do with straight arms back strength and close to nothing to do with abs. One thing is for sure, hanging L-sit raises and holds are much more core intensive then the front lever
ollie blasting music, instant like from me haha
Great content! I was wondering whether Maddy's program wasn't a bit intensive on the lats? campusing, boardclimbing and frontlevers all use the lats quite a bit.
She’s really well conditioned and one of those coaches who’s really intuitive with their loading 😊
I think it'd be really cool to get you to review the high school booking anime Iwakakeru :3 since that's what's gotten me interested in bouldering as a noobie
Great advice as usual, Ollie, we share a surname. My family is from Sheffield, Hillsborough area historically. Could we be related?
FB + campus + 5x3, that's no joke Maddy!
wooo i'm on the front liver grind too :D the resistance band makes me feel like i'm actually getting somewhere altho i'm not sure i am hahahaha (nah, i must be!) :D
Deffo got to get there 😊
I currently can only go to the climbing gym once a week. Do you have any quick suggestions on how to schedule training? I do have a hangboard and pullup bar
Hey Lattice, how would one train to get a high feet? For taller climbers, it's often difficult to get one's foot on higher footholds. Is this a flexibility thing, or a hip mobility thing? Thanks!
I am 2m tall and think it's both, I do yoga to work on both the back line flexibility and hip flexor strength (especially at the very top of the range of motion) to get my toes up.
More!
M A D d y
What was the stuff he sprained on his fingers?
Probably RhinoSkin?
Hangboarding....i do the repeaters (like 7 on 3off, 7on, 3off,7on, 3off - and thats a set. Maybe i do like 6 or 7 sets). Is adding weight but lowering time better? Still repeaters? Im just looking to increase finger strength but didn’t think about using weights ever. Thoughts?
Ollie was answering in another comment - video on it incoming.
Could you please link the product you put on your hands 🙏
Can you comment the timestamp for the product?
Great video! Thanks for sharing :)
16:20 I'm not entirely sure, but from what I've heard, it seems really important to straigthen your arms on this exercise in order to take the most out of it. (same goes for 17:12)
It's not as important as you might think - the key really is the intensity at which you're working the key muscle groups. A big argument for why obsessing over "form" in a lot of climbing exercise is that ONLY being strong in a certain plan of movement (or angle of joint) is less transferable into climbing. We'd actually much rather see climbers use (and be strong) in a variety. The same goes for the shoulder positions and grip positions on a fingerboard. There's a bit of dogma in the S&C culture around this, that we don't find entirely useful when it comes to building really good athletes (rather than just gym beasts). Hope that helps!
@@LatticeTraining You make total sense, thanks for the answer.
I guess (good) form is mostly about actually hitting the desired muscle groups, and injury prevention?
What brand/type of pants is Maddy wearing?
Mammut
Are you guys dating?
Great video! Enjoyed it very much, more please! :)