This video makes me wonder how does this work. I found out its a viscous electromagnetic clutch. and I will see more videos and more about it. Thanks Matt.
I would go with magneto-rheostatic fluid (iron filings in mineral oil) between a torque-converter style arrangement of inner and outer ferrous shells. I'd like to see a teardown of this electronic coupler.
I appreciate that! I went to public high school and then got my degree in Molecular Biology at St Louis university and worked at Washington University School of Medicine ( top5 medical school at the time) for almost 18 years in pulmonary and critical care research.
Just watched the new Trans Am - broken valve spring video on the pay channel. You'd think this would be a more common problem, but I've never seen it before. It may be a pain but it could have been so much worse. Will you be replacing the other springs as a safety precaution? Great little series, this - it's amazing how those new shop lights improve the picture quality; everything is so sharp now. Thanks for the insight.
I had this same problem back in March 2021, with a used 2009 nissan murano SL. When i turn corners there was a hard judder like the brakes were grabbing ,a loud clunking. (at one point sounded like metal grinding) It was replaced with a junkyard differential and works fine now. Also with my Nissan the transfer case was bad, missing or broken tooth in the ring gear. The dealer at the sales lot told me he just replaced the transfer case and severn days after purchasing the suv the transfer case went out again. The dealer offered to pay and replace it, and that was done but it was then when i test drove the suv i still felt the judder in the rear when making turns left or right. The mechanic was in the back seat an felt it. He replaced the rear def from the junk yard $300 parts an labor. Its been running fine sense ,and i drive it daily. The mechanic told me the most common cause was from improper towing not on a flatbed truck. but with the rear wheels on the ground. He mentioned that only a short distance of a block could do the damage to the differential .
Thanks for this follow up Matt, to me, this would be a heads up to get rid of the crappy vehicle, I do not like dead-end diagnostics like this final drive and not being able to get any direction from the manufacture's docs seals that for me
Hello everybody, Question if some one can answer will be very appreciated: I took the main shaft and the rear axles out on my 2015 Murano, I did put the outer end in without the axle-shaft : "safety first". Have a heavy oil leak in the differential. My millage improve from 18.5 to 22.5 doing the same driving so this thing is going to remain like this. Now I want to take the differential out. The questions are. The air hoses connected are for vacuum or cooing or what, should I just block them or join them together..? And the connector for the clutch/selenoid that engages the all wheel drive should I just disconnected is it monitor by the system? I want to avoid a check engine light of course. Thank you for your time to answer.
On my nissan altima with cvt trans and rear diff. The electronic rear coupler was going bad and made a high pitch whinning sound. Kind of like a wheel bearing. My dealership replaced it under warranty but out of warranty would have been close to 2k fix.
have a 2015 pathfinder the coupler was replaced in the fall of 2020 at 104000km, Nissan covered it. Now 30,000km later the same symptoms are happening, Nissan says too bad parts have 1 year warranty only. I asked is it common for parts to fail after 30,000km, crickets..
I often wonder how much of that could also be people who just parts-swap and damage the electrical component and return it to the store. Parts stores should NEVER take back any electrical component.
yep- at the stores I have been to I have absolutely seen people return electrical parts. all the time. I believe I even mentioned in a video a while back about a guy who returned a starter an alternator and a battery all at the same time when he still had his car not start
Schrodingers Box When I replaced the alternator in my 2004 Chevy Astro I brought along the alternator from my 2000 GMC Safari (currently my parts vehicle) because I wanted to use that second alternator instead of buying a new one. Trouble was when hand rotating the pulley it sounded worse than the known bad one. I had AutoZone test both on their machine while I watched and sure enough, both were bad. Purchased a new one and had them run that on their machine as well so I didn’t need to make another trip for a unit bad out of the box. Since then I’ve found out that I may be able to repair the Safari unit so I’m hanging onto it for now.
Mat did you try turning the input or output shafts then apply the current & see if there was resistance to your force indicating there was actuation ? We have a similar sort of system on the current Mercedes rear diff but it is a clutch pack operated by a small electric motor but the same issue with vague technical data.
I think the Buick Rendezvous & Pontiac Aztec had a similar system at the back wheels. This was an automatic AWD system but I don't know how the differentials used the computer commands to regulate power to the rear wheels.
Hope this helps answer your question. I found the following information off Pro Demand Automotive Repair for a 2005 Pontiac Aztec: During a front-wheel slip condition, the external gears of the gerotor pumps rotate at a faster rate of speed than the rear-wheel driven internal gears. The gerotor pumps pull oil from the sump through the clutch pump check valve sending pressurized oil to each individual piston to activate the separate clutch packs. On-demand torque/drive is provided to each of the rear wheels as required. A valve internal to each piston housing controls maximum clutch pack pressure. A second valve within each housing is temperature compensating and controls fluid flow based on ambient temperature. The system operates in both forward and rearward vehicle directions.
I understand the desire to know "how" it works.. but you could still test to see "if" it works lol... spin the input shaft and look through the axle holes to see if the ring gear turns (I'd imagine it shouldn't.) Then apply 12v to the coil/clutch/magic piece and see if it now connects the input shaft to the pinion/ring gear.
Hey thanks for the video, I just replaced a similar differential on my 2015 qx60 and I’m curious to know if you were ever able to find out what exactly failed on the electric coupler or if it is serviceable. I still have the bad differential and I separated the couple to open it but couldn’t find a way.
While I have heard the couple itself can be separated and serviced independently, I have never tried that. I have only ever done used units before and they come complete with diff and coupler.
Man these newer cars break down so much easier than older vehicles😯i know older vehicles that never had a differential service and still haven't broke down yet🤦♂️
Hey, Matt, I came across something new to me yesterday, and I think it may possibly be an idea for the pay channel. I was working on a newer vehicle that used an AGM technology battery. It's my understanding that these batteries are used in high-demand, stop-start cars, but this vehicle was neither of these - so why? I used to have a 2011 Ford that was stop-start, and that used an EFB (enhanced flooded battery). I just thought a little insight into these new technology batteries would be really useful - particularly as I believe that replacement AGM batteries need to be programmed into the vehicle. Any thoughts?
Hahahah, I stopped using it because I no longer use the DVOM for current measurement. it’s so much faster and easier and safer to just use a clamp. Ever since I got my clamp I stopped using DVOM for it b
Hello good day. A fan from Nigeria, and sorry am typing this here but it base on fuel trims. Here is my question and hope you can help. I don't have a code yet but from my fuel trim, or LFTS bank 2 I have -17, mean am running rich. And I have this funny herd start during warm startup and a little misfire don't really know what my problem is. The funny part is no body here around me seem to know what is going on
Yeah a rich condition can create a hard start. Being that you are from Nigeria you qualify for free access to my paid channel and I have several videos on diagnosis of rich fuel trims there. Send me your email and I will qualify you are eligible for the free access. Until then. I would start checking fuel pressure and fuel pressure regulator, check EGR and EVAP, and all other sources of fuel that could be entering engine unmetered. Conversely, you could have less air entering engine than is being measured- so PCM is over-adding fuel. Bad MAF, MAP can do that.
"Matter of fact, hell." LMFAO Sometimes ya just gotta roll with it like that. I was wondering if it was a kind of inductively activated non-Newtonian viscous fluid coupler.
This happened to me as well coupler failed. Felt like my rear passenger tire was locking up. This is with a 2018 Infiniti QX30 AWD with only 30,000 kms. Covered under warranty , cost over $7000.00
holy cow $7000!!!! sheesh, I believe I charged $600 for this repair including the used differential. car has been great ever since! man so glad that was under warranty for you.
There is a service bulletin for these, but there's not much info in it. Basically if it's acting like a spool rear end during tight parking lot maneuvers, unplug electromagnetic coupler and if it goes away, you've got a hell of a direction.
Hello Matt!....i did disconect the e coupling and the kicking went away...my question to you is, is it necesary to replace the e coupling? Is it ok to have it run without this part?...how long can i drive my 13 pathfinder without the e cuopling without causing any damage to any other part?
I wonder if you have to test it live(key on or car running) cause it probably has to detect slippage for the ecu to send voltage or signal to activate it. Probably the more slippage, the more resistance to apply locking force?
Yes I will go into it at some point when I have another model but it’s a viscous-coupler. basically a lot like a fluid-clutch (like a car torque converter). it is not a mechanical solenoid like I first thought.
Thanks for the video. I have a Journey with the same awd system and some sort of “clunk” at 20 and 40 mph. (Engage-disengage the rear differential). It was under warranty so I took it to the dealership. They replaced the whole transmission first but nothing, then the coupler saying it was bad, but I still filling the “cluck” so must likely is the actual differential. I’m glad it was for free but very bad technicians… I’ll disconnect it as you pointed out y see if it goes away… and back to the dealership
@@SchrodingersBox becases the actual viscous coupler you can’t test if there is any “play” on the diferencial by rotating the driveshaft. I’m from Kentucky. Too far hahaha. Thanks for putting out so many good videos
Hi if I take the drive shaft out and drive the car without drive shaft will that be harmful for the car. I know the all wheel drive will not work but iam not worried about all wheel drive? Please help
my awd rogue was towed without using a dolly some years ago and it never drove the same again, it's been getting worse and worse, my mechanic removed the drive shaft to alleviate the stress on the diff but it's gotten worse and worse to the point where the car now sounds and feels like it might break down at any moment. My mechanic says the diff needs replaced and to put a sticker on the car stating that it's an AWD and should never be towed with the tires rolling. Any thoughts? I can get the diff for 280 from a local junkyard, what should i do?
Ouch man. Yeah without knowing why it was towed originally it is absolutely possible there can be circumstances that could cause differential or transmission damage on a two-wheel tow. Unfortunately unless I saw the data and determined the cause of the issue I can’t really recommend a course of action.
@@SchrodingersBox i removed the old diff and opened it up, totally fucked. Huge metal shavings bundled up in a huge ball at the drain plug, gears all chewed up. Got the replacement in and waiting for the gear oil from Amazon.
I have this exact issue with my 2016 QX60. I cant afford to replace it righ now either. I'm not able to do this myself. Other than the dealer, what type of shop should I take it to have it unplugged? Will the technician be liable for anything?
Hi James yes I know who you are lol, good to see you. Man on a Chrysler it’s hard NOT to find a cause for limp-in mode. Even a steady misfire can cause it. There should definitely be a check engine light on and codes, I would start from there.
@@SchrodingersBox Thanks for the response my friend. I hope to make it out your way sometime and maybe catch up. I'm glad to start seeing videos again.
Is there any truth to just replacing the two bearings and seal inside the coupler? I've read that this is if fact the problem with the coupler. That is $100 worth of parts.
I never heard of that before. I can’t see how that would work. You can replace only the couple instead of the whole diff, but it’s not a bearing issue. It’s an electronic issue.
@@SchrodingersBox Thank you so much for your reply. But how can I disable coupler? Need mechanic do something or I just keep the switch at 2 wd, currently I drive in 2wd pretty smooth not any issues at straight or turn. Thank you
ANYONE KNOW WHY THE AWD LIGHT WOULD COME ON AFTER UNPLUGGING THE COUPLER? ITS OBVIOUSLY FAILING WHILE PLUGGED IN BUT NOTHING LIGHTS UP TILL ITS UNPLUGGED.2013 INFINITI JX35
2021 Nissan rogue with 27k needed to replace the AWD electronic coupling assembly part 38760-6RE3A , glad its a lease and under warranty . Nissan needs to up it’s quality control .
Try searching “team PRP”. it’s a network of used parts with lots of locations in major cities. there is a location in denver where I get all my engines, transmissions and differentials (including this one in the video) and they always come through.
One more quick question. I’m going to purchase a used complete differential and electronic coupler and install it. The dealership says that I need to have it towed to the dealership and programmed. Is this true or can I just reconnect the electronics and be fine?
@@SchrodingersBox thank you for the reply , today Nissan Dealersh estimated replacement of the electronic coupler 3000$ , they disconnected it for till (4wd ) till i get ready for the 3000 $ ,
Yeah, I've blown a couple because I forgot to take it out of amps and had to replace the fuse. Most still seemed to work okay, but I never trusted it fully again. One didn't even after I replaced the fuse and that one I spent over $100 on. I've really got to drop the $200+ on a good amp clamp. All of the cheaper ones I've bought have been next to useless.
not if the circuit has less amperage capacity than the meter fuse. for example if I am testing a transistor on a PCM and I am in amp mode, I will destroy the PCM.
@@SchrodingersBox Didn't think about that. Makes sense. If I'm in amp mode and touch the wrong thing, I've just completed a circuit and _poof!_ the magic smoke comes out. Well, that tears it. I'm off to give Amazon more of my money on a decent amp clamp. Wish me luck.
Awesome follow up video! That’s why I enjoy watching your videos!
Bingo brother. Two years after, and you nailed my issue with my new car I just bought...used that is. Thanks!
I enjoy watching !
This video makes me wonder how does this work.
I found out its a viscous electromagnetic clutch.
and I will see more videos and more about it.
Thanks Matt.
Ohhhh that makes total sense!!!! yes that absolutely must be how it works- thanks!!!!
I would go with magneto-rheostatic fluid (iron filings in mineral oil) between a torque-converter style arrangement of inner and outer ferrous shells. I'd like to see a teardown of this electronic coupler.
Kids, if you're looking for a UA-cam mechanic to follow, he's the one. This guy knows his shit.
You're a genius sure tell you were educated in Saint Louis Keep up the great videos
I appreciate that! I went to public high school and then got my degree in Molecular Biology at St Louis university and worked at Washington University School of Medicine ( top5 medical school at the time) for almost 18 years in pulmonary and critical care research.
Hey, dude, you got all the fancy equipment, man - no wonder you can diagnose stuff.
Yep my $20 multimeter and $2.99 testlight are top of the line baby!!!!
Did you come back to UA-cam? Freaking awesome.
I never left!! In fact I have been producing videos at least every month for the last year.
Matt, brother thanks for interesting information for Nissan/Infinity.
Any time!
Well explained Matt.
Thank You!
Just watched the new Trans Am - broken valve spring video on the pay channel. You'd think this would be a more common problem, but I've never seen it before. It may be a pain but it could have been so much worse. Will you be replacing the other springs as a safety precaution? Great little series, this - it's amazing how those new shop lights improve the picture quality; everything is so sharp now. Thanks for the insight.
Great analysis
I had this same problem back in March 2021, with a used 2009 nissan murano SL. When i turn corners there was a hard judder like the brakes were grabbing ,a loud clunking. (at one point sounded like metal grinding) It was replaced with a junkyard differential and works fine now. Also with my Nissan the transfer case was bad, missing or broken tooth in the ring gear. The dealer at the sales lot told me he just replaced the transfer case and severn days after purchasing the suv the transfer case went out again. The dealer offered to pay and replace it, and that was done but it was then when i test drove the suv i still felt the judder in the rear when making turns left or right. The mechanic was in the back seat an felt it. He replaced the rear def from the junk yard $300 parts an labor. Its been running fine sense ,and i drive it daily. The mechanic told me the most common cause was from improper towing not on a flatbed truck. but with the rear wheels on the ground. He mentioned that only a short distance of a block could do the damage to the differential .
facing the same issue now. So I guess there is no other way other than to replace the differential
If it's a big fat coil, the inductance will be enough to turn a PWM voltage signal into a steady current.
Thus, the measuring of the current.
Tis what I was about to say before I saw this comment then said "nvm then." 😆
I joined at a good time, this looks interesting.
i found the correct timing spot on my vw beetle 2002 crankshaft but still working on it like fixing the ignition switch was bad and a few other things
Thanks for this follow up Matt, to me, this would be a heads up to get rid of the crappy vehicle, I do not like dead-end diagnostics like this final drive and not being able to get any direction from the manufacture's docs seals that for me
Nissan is definitely rogue. At 180,000miles its asking for a second rear diff.
Hahahaha. I have actually seen this several times now since this video. There is clearly an issue with those differentials.
Hello everybody, Question if some one can answer will be very appreciated: I took the main shaft and the rear axles out on my 2015 Murano, I did put the outer end in without the axle-shaft : "safety first". Have a heavy oil leak in the differential. My millage improve from 18.5 to 22.5 doing the same driving so this thing is going to remain like this. Now I want to take the differential out. The questions are. The air hoses connected are for vacuum or cooing or what, should I just block them or join them together..? And the connector for the clutch/selenoid that engages the all wheel drive should I just disconnected is it monitor by the system? I want to avoid a check engine light of course. Thank you for your time to answer.
If I turn pulley, from main gearbox, should inside shaft react or not? Please, can you help me. Thank you
On my nissan altima with cvt trans and rear diff. The electronic rear coupler was going bad and made a high pitch whinning sound. Kind of like a wheel bearing. My dealership replaced it under warranty but out of warranty would have been close to 2k fix.
have a 2015 pathfinder the coupler was replaced in the fall of 2020 at 104000km, Nissan covered it. Now 30,000km later the same symptoms are happening, Nissan says too bad parts have 1 year warranty only. I asked is it common for parts to fail after 30,000km, crickets..
It’s most likely the O2 sensor. I read it on a tech forum! lol
Love your videos!!!!
Thanks and great screen name!!
I worked at Napa a long time ago and we had 3 alternators bad outta the box.
After that we started testing all alternators before selling them.
I often wonder how much of that could also be people who just parts-swap and damage the electrical component and return it to the store. Parts stores should NEVER take back any electrical component.
@@SchrodingersBox They never used to. Did that change?
yep- at the stores I have been to I have absolutely seen people return electrical parts. all the time. I believe I even mentioned in a video a while back about a guy who returned a starter an alternator and a battery all at the same time when he still had his car not start
Schrodingers Box When I replaced the alternator in my 2004 Chevy Astro I brought along the alternator from my 2000 GMC Safari (currently my parts vehicle) because I wanted to use that second alternator instead of buying a new one. Trouble was when hand rotating the pulley it sounded worse than the known bad one. I had AutoZone test both on their machine while I watched and sure enough, both were bad. Purchased a new one and had them run that on their machine as well so I didn’t need to make another trip for a unit bad out of the box. Since then I’ve found out that I may be able to repair the Safari unit so I’m hanging onto it for now.
Mat did you try turning the input or output shafts then apply the current & see if there was resistance to your force indicating there was actuation ? We have a similar sort of system on the current Mercedes rear diff but it is a clutch pack operated by a small electric motor but the same issue with vague technical data.
Didnt think to do that! will try that when I get a chance.
I think the Buick Rendezvous & Pontiac Aztec had a similar system at the back wheels. This was an automatic AWD system but I don't know how the differentials used the computer commands to regulate power to the rear wheels.
Hope this helps answer your question. I found the following information off Pro Demand Automotive Repair for a 2005 Pontiac Aztec:
During a front-wheel slip condition, the external gears of the gerotor pumps rotate at a faster rate of speed than the rear-wheel driven internal gears. The gerotor pumps pull oil from the sump through the clutch pump check valve sending pressurized oil to each individual piston to activate the separate clutch packs. On-demand torque/drive is provided to each of the rear wheels as required. A valve internal to each piston housing controls maximum clutch pack pressure. A second valve within each housing is temperature compensating and controls fluid flow based on ambient temperature. The system operates in both forward and rearward vehicle directions.
@@joserosas5420 That is interesting. Thank you for posting!
I just came across this video. My 2016 Chevy Trax is having this same issue. But I get a popping noise too
I understand the desire to know "how" it works.. but you could still test to see "if" it works lol... spin the input shaft and look through the axle holes to see if the ring gear turns (I'd imagine it shouldn't.) Then apply 12v to the coil/clutch/magic piece and see if it now connects the input shaft to the pinion/ring gear.
how would that work if it’s pulse width modulated or voltage regulated?
What if is a viscosity based mechanism? How would you test it then?
Hey thanks for the video, I just replaced a similar differential on my 2015 qx60 and I’m curious to know if you were ever able to find out what exactly failed on the electric coupler or if it is serviceable. I still have the bad differential and I separated the couple to open it but couldn’t find a way.
While I have heard the couple itself can be separated and serviced independently, I have never tried that. I have only ever done used units before and they come complete with diff and coupler.
Man these newer cars break down so much easier than older vehicles😯i know older vehicles that never had a differential service and still haven't broke down yet🤦♂️
Hey, Matt, I came across something new to me yesterday, and I think it may possibly be an idea for the pay channel. I was working on a newer vehicle that used an AGM technology battery. It's my understanding that these batteries are used in high-demand, stop-start cars, but this vehicle was neither of these - so why? I used to have a 2011 Ford that was stop-start, and that used an EFB (enhanced flooded battery). I just thought a little insight into these new technology batteries would be really useful - particularly as I believe that replacement AGM batteries need to be programmed into the vehicle. Any thoughts?
yes Andy I am aware of those and plan in the future to do a video on all the battery types, not just these. Thanks for the suggestion!!
@@SchrodingersBox That's great news! Looking forward to it already.
Hi,the only video where somebody try to fix it or at least find the problem. Thank you. I have a question did you manage to fix it?
Yes I replaced it with another differential.
What happened to the rubber band on the DVOM when doing current checks?
Hahahah, I stopped using it because I no longer use the DVOM for current measurement. it’s so much faster and easier and safer to just use a clamp. Ever since I got my clamp I stopped using DVOM for it b
Hello good day. A fan from Nigeria, and sorry am typing this here but it base on fuel trims. Here is my question and hope you can help. I don't have a code yet but from my fuel trim, or LFTS bank 2 I have -17, mean am running rich. And I have this funny herd start during warm startup and a little misfire don't really know what my problem is. The funny part is no body here around me seem to know what is going on
Yeah a rich condition can create a hard start. Being that you are from Nigeria you qualify for free access to my paid channel and I have several videos on diagnosis of rich fuel trims there. Send me your email and I will qualify you are eligible for the free access.
Until then. I would start checking fuel pressure and fuel pressure regulator, check EGR and EVAP, and all other sources of fuel that could be entering engine unmetered.
Conversely, you could have less air entering engine than is being measured- so PCM is over-adding fuel. Bad MAF, MAP can do that.
Most likely this is an electromagnet similar to the DCCD of the STIs. Power to it, it engages, etc.
"Matter of fact, hell." LMFAO Sometimes ya just gotta roll with it like that.
I was wondering if it was a kind of inductively activated non-Newtonian viscous fluid coupler.
Do these need to be initialized or learned with a scan tool after replacement?
Great question. No they do not. just replace and go!
This happened to me as well coupler failed. Felt like my rear passenger tire was locking up. This is with a 2018 Infiniti QX30 AWD with only 30,000 kms. Covered under warranty , cost over $7000.00
holy cow $7000!!!! sheesh, I believe I charged $600 for this repair including the used differential. car has been great ever since! man so glad that was under warranty for you.
There is a service bulletin for these, but there's not much info in it. Basically if it's acting like a spool rear end during tight parking lot maneuvers, unplug electromagnetic coupler and if it goes away, you've got a hell of a direction.
Hello Matt!....i did disconect the e coupling and the kicking went away...my question to you is, is it necesary to replace the e coupling? Is it ok to have it run without this part?...how long can i drive my 13 pathfinder without the e cuopling without causing any damage to any other part?
You can leave it like that permanently or until you replace it. It just makes the vehicle 2WD is all.
@@hectorperales143 that Matt is correct!
I wonder if you have to test it live(key on or car running) cause it probably has to detect slippage for the ecu to send voltage or signal to activate it. Probably the more slippage, the more resistance to apply locking force?
What if you apply voltage and spin the input shift? Just curious if it turns the differential with voltage applied.
yeah I did try that before I realized how it works- you. can’t test it that way. Good thought though!
@@SchrodingersBox I figured you would have tried that. I just wanted to ask. Any idea about how this differential actually works?
Yes I will go into it at some point when I have another model but it’s a viscous-coupler. basically a lot like a fluid-clutch (like a car torque converter).
it is not a mechanical solenoid like I first thought.
Thanks for the video. I have a Journey with the same awd system and some sort of “clunk” at 20 and 40 mph. (Engage-disengage the rear differential). It was under warranty so I took it to the dealership. They replaced the whole transmission first but nothing, then the coupler saying it was bad, but I still filling the “cluck” so must likely is the actual differential. I’m glad it was for free but very bad technicians… I’ll disconnect it as you pointed out y see if it goes away… and back to the dealership
hmmmm that’s weird. wish I could look at it!!
@@SchrodingersBox becases the actual viscous coupler you can’t test if there is any “play” on the diferencial by rotating the driveshaft. I’m from Kentucky. Too far hahaha. Thanks for putting out so many good videos
Hi if I take the drive shaft out and drive the car without drive shaft will that be harmful for the car. I know the all wheel drive will not work but iam not worried about all wheel drive? Please help
on some modes you can do that and there won’t be any problem- it just acts like 2wd. other models you would leak the fluid out.
Is it easier to replace the coupler or just replace the whole rear end ?
the coupler for sure.
my awd rogue was towed without using a dolly some years ago and it never drove the same again, it's been getting worse and worse, my mechanic removed the drive shaft to alleviate the stress on the diff but it's gotten worse and worse to the point where the car now sounds and feels like it might break down at any moment. My mechanic says the diff needs replaced and to put a sticker on the car stating that it's an AWD and should never be towed with the tires rolling. Any thoughts? I can get the diff for 280 from a local junkyard, what should i do?
Ouch man. Yeah without knowing why it was towed originally it is absolutely possible there can be circumstances that could cause differential or transmission damage on a two-wheel tow.
Unfortunately unless I saw the data and determined the cause of the issue I can’t really recommend a course of action.
@@SchrodingersBox i removed the old diff and opened it up, totally fucked. Huge metal shavings bundled up in a huge ball at the drain plug, gears all chewed up. Got the replacement in and waiting for the gear oil from Amazon.
I have this exact issue with my 2016 QX60. I cant afford to replace it righ now either. I'm not able to do this myself. Other than the dealer, what type of shop should I take it to have it unplugged? Will the technician be liable for anything?
Any technician can unplug it. actually any person can. you don’t even need to lift the vehicle. you can reach the plug quite easily.
@@SchrodingersBox Ok great thank you. I thought I would have to lift the vehicle. Thanks so much for your prompt response.
hey did you ever follow up on this I have a problem and I was hoping you
Yes I replaced the diff with a used one from a full service salvage yard last year and it’s running perfectly.
Is there a difference between rear coupler vs differentially?
I assume you mean vs a differential…. the coupler is a part of the differential in this model. it is not in place of the differential.
Is it a viscus coupling?
Yes that seems the only explanation that makes sense to explain what I see.
If I disconnect the coupler electronic connection is that OK to drive like that?
Absolutely. you just will have 2WD (front).
it mite have to rotate to engage ?
good thought but no I believe it’s a viscous magnetic clutch mechanism.
Hi Matt why don’t you upgrade your video resolution?
yeah probably time I do. just haven’t had time to adapt to learning a new camera and software.
Hey Mr Matt
I am a paid subscriber and I have a good one for you. I have 2010 Jeep Wrangler Sport and it's stuck in limp mode. Any suggestions?
Hi James yes I know who you are lol, good to see you.
Man on a Chrysler it’s hard NOT to find a cause for limp-in mode. Even a steady misfire can cause it. There should definitely be a check engine light on and codes, I would start from there.
@@SchrodingersBox Thanks for the response my friend. I hope to make it out your way sometime and maybe catch up. I'm glad to start seeing videos again.
Is there any truth to just replacing the two bearings and seal inside the coupler? I've read that this is if fact the problem with the coupler. That is $100 worth of parts.
I never heard of that before. I can’t see how that would work. You can replace only the couple instead of the whole diff, but it’s not a bearing issue. It’s an electronic issue.
Wouldn't unplugging it just cause it to never go on at all and always run in 2wd?
exactly. that is the temporary fix until replacing the coupler.
Will this cause the 4wd over heat message ?
definitely not. You might want to check fluid level and condition.
Subaru's have a separate fuse for their AWD in the engine bay.
I have the same problem with couple fail. How if I drive only in 2wd and leave the problem , will be any further damage to other parts? Big thanks
If you disable the coupler you will not do any damage- it just remains FWD only.
@@SchrodingersBox Thank you so much for your reply. But how can I disable coupler? Need mechanic do something or I just keep the switch at 2 wd, currently I drive in 2wd pretty smooth not any issues at straight or turn. Thank you
Physically disconnect the plug it i assume? @@jinjunwang3910
ANYONE KNOW WHY THE AWD LIGHT WOULD COME ON AFTER UNPLUGGING THE COUPLER?
ITS OBVIOUSLY FAILING WHILE PLUGGED IN BUT NOTHING LIGHTS UP TILL ITS UNPLUGGED.2013 INFINITI JX35
I think maybe because the caps lock key is stuck on ?
That’s normal for the AWD light to remain on after unplugging the coupler. But you probably figured that out by now.
Roberts is correct.
2021 Nissan rogue with 27k needed to replace the AWD electronic coupling assembly part 38760-6RE3A , glad its a lease and under warranty . Nissan needs to up it’s quality control .
I literally just did yet another one this past weekend. Yeah they have a definite issue with the differential for sure.
How do I find more info on the troubleshooting of this diff on your website?
The whole video is on the website at www.schrodingersboxQM.com
If you become a member there you can search “Nissan differential”.
Awesome I did become a member but was having trouble finding it.
2017 QX 60 rear electronic coupler is bad like you explained. Can I just unplug it and leave it? Can’t afford to replace it
YES!! It will just make the vehicle 2WD.
Thank you so much. I may look at a complete unit used. Any suggestions on where to find one? I may use LQK used auto parts
Try searching “team PRP”. it’s a network of used parts with lots of locations in major cities. there is a location in denver where I get all my engines, transmissions and differentials (including this one in the video) and they always come through.
Thank you I am in Colorado Springs so I could make the Denver run. You’ve been very helpful thank you
One more quick question. I’m going to purchase a used complete differential and electronic coupler and install it. The dealership says that I need to have it towed to the dealership and programmed. Is this true or can I just reconnect the electronics and be fine?
Hi Matt
Hi Richard, good to see you back!
Was waiting for you to remove the bolts so we could see the coupling.
So meh
Same issue with Infiniti jx35
Yes I see this happen on those cars just as often.
@@SchrodingersBox thank you for the reply , today Nissan Dealersh estimated replacement of the electronic coupler 3000$ , they disconnected it for till (4wd ) till i get ready for the 3000 $ ,
Wow man. I have done this for 5 or 6 people in the last couple of years and I charged $400 total for a used unit.
I hate using my multimeter for amps too. I hate blowing up multimeters. Only one person to blame when that happens.
My fear is blowing up circuits with it if you forget it’s in current reading mode.
@@SchrodingersBox Does it not just blow the glass fuse
Yeah, I've blown a couple because I forgot to take it out of amps and had to replace the fuse. Most still seemed to work okay, but I never trusted it fully again. One didn't even after I replaced the fuse and that one I spent over $100 on. I've really got to drop the $200+ on a good amp clamp. All of the cheaper ones I've bought have been next to useless.
not if the circuit has less amperage capacity than the meter fuse. for example if I am testing a transistor on a PCM and I am in amp mode, I will destroy the PCM.
@@SchrodingersBox Didn't think about that. Makes sense. If I'm in amp mode and touch the wrong thing, I've just completed a circuit and _poof!_ the magic smoke comes out. Well, that tears it. I'm off to give Amazon more of my money on a decent amp clamp. Wish me luck.
That thing is tiny.
The differential, I mean.
Hahahahaha. yes I thought the same thing. it seems incredibly weak for a car that size.
Can I recommend an update video for the Delta variant of the coronavirus?
EDIT: And Ivermectin I guess now... lmao