I'm also a bit amazed, but also very happy that even with the internet and smartphones and playstations and all that, this is still going on :) Found an old set in a fleamarket some time ago and decided to buy and try it out just because. The footsoldiers are coming out well but I just can't seem to get the rider's sword and the horse's front leg done properly, came here to find out why...
So lets say I want to do what you're doing, but for jewelry pendants. how do they do it with .925 silver? what does tripple dipped in .925 silver even mean?
Our moulds are vulcanised black rubber that can take about 400 to 450 degrees celsius. Any hotter than that and the mould starts to melt. Silver is not supported. Pewter is acceptable and can be a metal suitable for jewellery. "What does tripple dipped in .925 silver even mean?" I am not sure what you are referring to.
What is the best metal to use in these “fine detail” moulds? I find lead goes back to solid too quickly and does not fill up all of the details. Or is it that I don’t have the lead hot enough?
Model Metal is the best. It has bismuth, tin and lead in it. You can mix 50% tin with your lead to get superior results. You need to raise temperature of metal before pouring to fill properly. Also check the following: (1). warm mould first to slow metal cooling. (2) make sure release agent is thinly covering the mould halves. Clap together to remove excess. (3) avoid over clamping or clamping on a chokepoint. (4) vent any difficult areas with a scalpel like sword tips or hooves of horses. (5) Tap the mould when pouring (carefully) with something solid to vibrate it a little to settle the metal better, this works wonders.
Can't believe this is still going. I can smell the hot mould from..35 years ago? I'll be down to the shop with the kids one of these weekends..
If you can make it before the end of the month you get to see our Battle of Waterloo exhibit before it gets dismantled in November. Its worth it.
I'm also a bit amazed, but also very happy that even with the internet and smartphones and playstations and all that, this is still going on :) Found an old set in a fleamarket some time ago and decided to buy and try it out just because. The footsoldiers are coming out well but I just can't seem to get the rider's sword and the horse's front leg done properly, came here to find out why...
Are any of these still from Holger Ericksson's designs, or are they newer sculpts?
I wish PA would produce these subjects in 54mm, too.
I use old linotype metal. As an alloy, it's pretty close to most casting metals in its composition.
So lets say I want to do what you're doing, but for jewelry pendants. how do they do it with .925 silver? what does tripple dipped in .925 silver even mean?
Our moulds are vulcanised black rubber that can take about 400 to 450 degrees celsius. Any hotter than that and the mould starts to melt. Silver is not supported. Pewter is acceptable and can be a metal suitable for jewellery. "What does tripple dipped in .925 silver even mean?" I am not sure what you are referring to.
What is the best metal to use in these “fine detail” moulds? I find lead goes back to solid too quickly and does not fill up all of the details. Or is it that I don’t have the lead hot enough?
Model Metal is the best. It has bismuth, tin and lead in it. You can mix 50% tin with your lead to get superior results. You need to raise temperature of metal before pouring to fill properly. Also check the following: (1). warm mould first to slow metal cooling. (2) make sure release agent is thinly covering the mould halves. Clap together to remove excess. (3) avoid over clamping or clamping on a chokepoint. (4) vent any difficult areas with a scalpel like sword tips or hooves of horses. (5) Tap the mould when pouring (carefully) with something solid to vibrate it a little to settle the metal better, this works wonders.