Just for the record, the method is called in Spanish "empalmillado". My two grandfathers were shoemakers and used to handmade shoes that way. Great video, well explained and concise.
You're actually halfway right. The man who invented the Goodyear machine for stitching the Goodyear welt is the son of the founder of the Goodyear tire company. The tire company was also one of the few manufacturers of rubber shoe soles back in the day. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goodyear_welt
Great video. Thanks for the lesson. Just to add: "The machinery used for the Goodyear Welt process was invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear Jr., the son of Charles Goodyear (the self-taught chemist and manufacturing engineer who developed vulcanized rubber).
This video helped me understand better about Goodyear welts. I am buying a pair of cowboy boots and they have a Goodyear welt. Thank you for breaking it down for this 58 year old lady. You are awesome. Keep it up 💯
I'm actually buying a pair boots in Mexico..one of the major selling points was Goodyear welt...so came here to understand what it was. Turns out I bought a good pair.
I have to agree with some of the comments on this video, this honestly is the best video explaining different types of shoe welting. I have read a lot of articles and watched many videos but never really understood it completely! Thanks Carl, you're a very good presenter as well!
Excellent video, for more years, than I can remember I have bought Loakes men's boots with a leather sole, recently I contacted the agent here in Ireland to order a pair of Loakes Bedale boots only to be told that they no longer supply leather soles and offer only gum rubber soles. At £215.00 I think it's a cheat for as you say rubber soles are glued on and therefore cheaper to produce and impossible to get resoled here in Ireland, yet both my son and I can get our leather-soled boots re-soled locally on average six times swapping between work boots and dress boots. So much for choice and putting the customer first.
bro you are the man. I have learned so much from you. You truly are the best male lifestyle/fashion guy on youtube. oh like others that are click bait or promos
I’ve started buying Goodyear welted and Blake stitched shoes that are handmade in Northamptonshire (UK). They’re so well made and repairable, which I think is important when we’re all trying to cut down on waste.
Very informative video, big up! Norwegian welt style is very popular in traditional hiking boots in countries around the Alps. One example is Hanwag models Stuiben and Bergler made in Germany. But other german, swiss etc. shoe brands also make very robust double stiched alp shoes. Worth to take a look at!
My dressed leather shoes are Norwegian welted, they are timeless pieces, durable, waterproof and rare. Not a lot of companies in the world produce them. I'd rather pay for quality than quantity.
lol, you are right, so it's better to invest in the 2 best winter boots, one of them for staying dry and warm other to look like a winter boot but more stylish. I have learned if u live in a cold city and you wear boots to go to work and wait for the bus or do a lot of walking on snowy sidewalks etc, you'll need a nice Pajar. Best Canadian boots to have. the second boot must be Sorel. Always have 2 winter boots so u can them 24 hours of resting peroid.
Great explanation! Especially comparing which are more waterproof. I only wish you had explained why is it called “Goodyear” etc. What does it have to do with the tire company?
The Goodyear welt is actually named for the machinery used to create the bond. It was invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear jr. - the son of Charles Goodyear who invented vulcanized rubber and ultimately the tires we use today. You're right on the money!
Excellent and informative video. TIL how different types of sole construction are best adapted to various uses and environments, and are not just about the look of the shoe. It also explains why some shoe types are more expensive, and how manufacturers can simulate the look of more expensive construction, along with tips on how to identify those styles. I wish women’s shoes weren’t mostly garbage.
I think you have generalized Goodyear welting with the more traditional hand- (or machine-) stitched welt. There is an operational difference between these. Goodyear welting has a preformed rubber or leather welt that can be wrapped around and then glued onto the edge of the insole. After it has bonded, the welt is then machine stitched to the insole. With hand-stitched welting, a series of transverse hemp grooves are made through the upper-insole join to a depth of half the insole thickness with a curved awl. The welt is then stitched to the upper and insole by running the waxed hemp through the welt and through the transverse grooves.
Wow! Great video Carl! I've just recently discovered your channel. Very informative and you are very well spoken. A lot of information...you should be a cobbler!!
Thank you for an informative video. My problem is with shoes that are not as presented by the salesman. I thought I was buying a Goodyear welt (at the price point) but it was merely sole stitching.
Rapid Blake is by far the best method between the two giving sturdy and water resistant footwear. Stitchdown is the only true water proof method with or without an added protective welt on top of the upper.
Thank you. I've always wondered about Goodyear vs. something else. Now I know. I'm an informed consumer. And I now know that I have a pair of 270 Goodyear welt boots. Cool.
Carl, good explanation of shoe construction. On occasion I wear my heavy-duty Goodyear welt constructed shoes. These are vintage Florsheim double leather sole/heal 5-nail v-cleat shoes from the 1960’s-1970’s. I have several pairs of these shoes and I love them. Have you ever seen these shoes? You can actually still purchase these shoes on eBay.
I glad I found this video. I had no clue what a Goodyear welt was. My first thought was. What does a car tire have to do with shoes/boot? Thanks for the video.
Great video!!! I am so chuffed!!! Yesterday my Thursday Captain boots got delivered, I wanted to see what the hype was all about😂 I'm wearing them in around the house and they are very good indeed, I need to take them out and about bust so far, awesome!
The best rubber soles, Dainite full soles. For boots Good year welted. For Dress shoes, I highly recommend spike Dainite full sholes. For snow or winter boots, Thermoplastic Rubber Shoe Soles
My father had shoe shop in early 60s one thing I remember him saying was when buying new shoes make sure they have Goodyear welt on them, only problem I had was that I was a kid about 7 years old and only would ware tennis shoes at that time Ahahahahahaaha!
Great video man good and thorough 👍🏼 I work on all three cemented, Blake and Goodyear welted at the shoe repair I work at everyday! Stitching the soles on Goodyear welted is always super fun once you get the hang of it but super stressful first few years learning to master it, like anything else Lol I wear a pair of amber harness iron rangers to work everyday too I can stand for 10 hours no problem, I also put a black vibram christy sole on it I think more red wing fans should start putting Christie’s on their iron rangers
Love the content - thanks for the education! Having said that, I can see why people might criticize the Blake stitching methods (of either variety. Sounds to me like an outsized expense to get an aesthetic outcome with compromised water resistance (which I’d infer extends to a high cost to re-sole). Granted, it gives a higher degree of flexibility, but sounds like the Goodyear welt is a superior choice for me as I’d happily take short term stiffness for durability and water resistance (and all other things being equal, I tend to like the aesthetic of a more Prominent lip. Having said all that - thanks again!
theres also stitchdown, hand welted and moccisan construction. goodyear welt was the first way that im aware of to really mass produce shoes and boots, so nothing special there. its a decent method but i dont think it should be used on outdoor footwear as the welt is basically a channel for water to get in between the welt and upper and rot the welt stitching, which has no chance to dry because its under the shoe with a bunch of cork or other matereals that can stay wet for a long time. sometimes sweat does this as well. the best outdoor boots are storm welted (as you mentioned), stitchdown (whites, wesco. etc) or some form of moccisan construction (russel)
Well, the Goodyear welt isn't just about stitching or the leather welt. For an example the goodyear welt construction which Solovair uses in many of their shoes is based on a rubber welt, and instead of stitching the outsole is heat sealed. Those heat selaed outsoles are totally replaceable and you can buy new outsoles from Solovair website.
Great vid, can anyone help answer my overall question below? According to it's definition a WELT is: A leather rim sewn around the edge of a shoe upper to which the sole is attached. And honestly, that's exactly what I think of when I hear the words "Goodyear welt" or "storm welt", or just the word "welt" alone, for that matter. But what about a "blake welt" aka "blake sewn"? A blake welt/sewn doesn't have a piece of leather (or other material) around the rim of the midsole, so does it even constitute as a welt? It's missing the seemingly most important part of a welt, i.e. the leather rim (unless it does have it and if so please tell me, lol). Is this why I often see it being referred to as "blake swen" as opposed to a blake welt? And if a blake welt is indeed a type of welt then the above definition needs to be revised. Because a blake welt is a process where a stitch goes through the top of the midsole all the way through the bottom of the outsole via a stitch. That stitch continuously goes around the rim of the midsole joining the midsole and outsole. Now according to Google's definition above, this is not a welt beacuse it doesn't have a piece of material like leather that is sewn around the rim of the midsole. I would like to know what you guys think about the welt on this boot in the link below. Their website describes it as having a "Thick leather welt". It's quite hard to make out but when I zoomed in really close I can see what appears to be a leather welt on top of the midsloe. But this clearly isn't a Goodyear welt, so what is it? If it does have a leather welt but isn't a Goodyear/storm/Norwegian welt then what could it be? I'm so confused, lol. Help. goo.gl/dJCUvV
I think you are amongst the majority of men who are thrown by the Blake stitch and Goodyear welt. In the beginning I thought for sure there was a piece of rubber tire on Goodyear welted shoes! You're correct, the "welt" is a strip of leather which acts as a buffer or trim between the sole and the lower. You'll see different takes on this with some being larger (Grenson Shoes, Dub Trio, and most Japanese shoemakers) and others being smaller like most Italian styles. The Blake stitch is just that, and not a welt at all. It's a rather simple concept with no strip of leather and instead relying on stitching to secure the upper to the lower. Blake rapid is yet another version of this method. The one thing I didn't mention in this video is Sitchdown construction which is almost the opposite of Blake stitch with the upper being turned outward and flanged, then stitched to the sole. You'll see this on a lot of Danner boots. I hope this clears things up!
Carl Murawski I really appreciate your feedback! And thanks for confirming my assumption. Hey, did you take a look at the boots in the link I posted? I would really like to get your professional opinion on what type of stitch or welt the shoe is constructed with. They describe the boot as having "a thick leather welt". And honestly, when you zoom in close on the midsole next to the toebox of the image of the single boot (second image from the top down, facing left) there appears to be a brown leather strip/welt on said midsole. But because they don't name the type of welt that the shoe allegedly possesses, it makes me think that it's not a legitimate welt and more of a blake stitch (or a similar type of stitch) with some leather around the midsole to mimic a Goodyear type welt. And if that's untrue, wouldn't that be false advertisement? Thanks again, for the help.
Hi Carl good video. I have a question. I wear a lot of military boots, especially Italian made amphibious boots made for parachutists and commando raids. They are very expensive and being waterproof they have rubber soles usually Vibram. They get a lot of abuse and now im coming to re-sole I am told they can be resoled easily? do you have any experience of these types of boots?
You honestly can't beat a goodyear welt. In my opinion if your looking for a great dress shoe try Allen Edmonds. They have real leather and goodyear welt shoes.
Is the Goodyear welt named after the person who invented it or the tire & rubber company? I was always under the impression it was the latter... After watching this video I'm thinking I am wrong.
It actually was! The welt is really named after the machinery which makes it, but that was invented by Charles Goodyear who was the son of the founder of Goodyear.
Thank you for the kind words! My hope is that I can explain things simply enough to make sense to guys like me who only need a working knowledge of shoe construction. Every guide I've seen is either oversimplified or way too complex, hopefully this hits a sweet spot for someone just looking to increase their knowledge.
Hey man Love the video. Very well presented. However, you neglected to mention anything about the name itself. Why is it called a goodyear welt? History on the name. Any affiliation with the tire company? Pretty important for the layman. Thanks!
Very informative video. I want to get my first pair of boots that can be dressed up or down. I'm interested in the Thursday Boot but I'm not sure I want to start with a $200 pair of shoes right off the bat.
In that case I’d check out Nordstrom Rack. You can get into a pair of decent boots for around $100.00. Most of the time they’ll be seconds but often they have blemishes or issues you can’t even notice.
Have you ever encountered a shoes construction "Blake - rapid stich"? I just stumbled into knowing it while I looked for shoe construction on Google? I found there were kind of a greal deal of articles talking about it but i didn't any specific illustrations for it. Could You do a video to verify blake rapid stich?
What about Stitch Down construction ? I see some good brand use that, like Viberg, Truman,... Can you tell the pros and cons of this method and compare with GYW method
It's difficult to explain without a visual but stitch down is essentially where the material from the upper is flanged out and then secured to the lower. It's similar in many ways to the Goodyear Welt but missing the actual welt piece of material on top and is now underneath.
Carl Murawski many people said that boots made by Stitch Down construction can not resole many time like GYW. I like the Viberg service boots but if it can not resole many time like Goodyear welt i will not be happy about a high price boots like that, the Viberg Shell Cordovan is crazy expensive but they're all Stitch Down method :(
I’m looking for a well cushioned hiking boot or walking shoe that the cushioning doesn’t compress or lose its cushion. EVA cushioning wears out in my shoes within 2 months.
It's so hard to find women's Good year welt shoes. Some will make good year welt for the men's shoes but not on their womens. I was finally able to find a company that makes a decent amount of women's shoes that are also good year welt, just got my first pair and currently breaking them in.
Only 5 jackets! Great pics! Surprised you don’t have any waxed canvas in your pics. Did you end up already getting rid of your huckberry waxed trucker. That would be in my five!
The gy welt is a hallmark to look for that's For sure, but it's main advantage is the ability to resole etc. It that somehow it imparts automatic high quality to other important asoects.of the shoe, ie , but the upper like you alluded, matters, it it's junk hide, it won't age well , crease up ugly , and so the upper matters, the welt.matters, and inner lining matters, great discussion man.
All good points, and one thing I’d like to explore in a future video is shoe breaks and the difference between cheap leather, quality leather, and shell cordovan. Of course if I tried to fit it all in one video it would be an hour long!
Thanks for the explanations. Where did you find the diagrams? I want to post/link your video on my website with a pictorial and I really like the cutaway pictures you show in this one. Thanks, Hillary Marek from Hillary's of Houston Luxury Clothing and Vintage Boutiques
Thank you Hillary, I got the diagrams from a number of different sources. Some were advertisements from shoe manufacturers, and others were simply a Google image search. I wish I had more specific information for you, but this was a few months back and my memory isn't as good as it once was.
Well thanks for giving me a place to start. I'll check out Google and see what I can dig up. Lmk if you ever want to collaborate. I have an extensive collection and I'm always open to brand ambassador agreements. I supply the luxury you supply the talent and I comp you with some of the best heritage brand clothing out there for your time.
I cant tell what I have. Seems like goodyear because of the stiches and i think its cork between the upper and outer sole but has a rubber sole which doesnt show the stitches through the rubber. Could a rubber sole be glued onto the bottom and cover the goodyear welt stiches? Boots seem stiff. UK brand called Dundee I cant find anything on (made in portugal) a cap toe boot with hook laces at the top.
Well yes, I mentioned that I didn’t cover every single method. The Goodyear welt is only a true Goodyear welt if it’s performed with a Goodyear welting machine. Hand welting is better in almost every way though.
Probably one of the best video of explaining shoe construction ive ever seen (i read many of them)
Thank you very much! That’s high praise.
I agree. I watched a few. This is definitely the best.
I agree
I agree :)
Indeed
You're a good presenter Carl. Concise delivery with naturalness to your voice which is pleasant to listen to. Keep it up.
Thank you so much!
+1
Just for the record, the method is called in Spanish "empalmillado". My two grandfathers were shoemakers and used to handmade shoes that way. Great video, well explained and concise.
zapato :v
I literally thought Goodyear Welt meant it used Goodyear rubber lol. Great video and now I understand more about shoe construction. Interesting stuff!
Don't feel bad, I thought the same thing LOL
You could. Old winter tires can be cut into a good shoe sole.
@@gusjeazer The soles of the first prototype Dr Martens were made out of damaged aircraft tyres
Same. Buying boots in Mexico and Goodyear welt was the selling point, but didn't know what it meant, so jus figured it was the rubber sole.
You're actually halfway right. The man who invented the Goodyear machine for stitching the Goodyear welt is the son of the founder of the Goodyear tire company. The tire company was also one of the few manufacturers of rubber shoe soles back in the day.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goodyear_welt
I am a footwear manufacturer and retailer. Your video has been the most concise and knowledgeable presentation of constructions. Good Job.!
Great video. Thanks for the lesson. Just to add: "The machinery used for the Goodyear Welt process was invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear Jr., the son of Charles Goodyear (the self-taught chemist and manufacturing engineer who developed vulcanized rubber).
After 4 videos i finally got a clear answer to what a goodyear welt is, thanks man!
I learned English and learned about methods of shoe construction, your accent is clear thanks
You're easily the best channel for boots to be informed, thanks for all your work. Seriously
I appreciate that! Thank you so much Jose, you made my day.
This video helped me understand better about Goodyear welts. I am buying a pair of cowboy boots and they have a Goodyear welt. Thank you for breaking it down for this 58 year old lady. You are awesome. Keep it up 💯
Glad I could help, and thank you for watching!
I'm actually buying a pair boots in Mexico..one of the major selling points was Goodyear welt...so came here to understand what it was. Turns out I bought a good pair.
Great simplified explanation for those not in the know! Very easy to understand and illustrated man! Well done.
Thanks buddy! All the guides I’ve read either over simplify it or explain construction as if you’re a professional cobbler.
Dude you have THE best boot channel on youtube by far
Well thank you so much man!!!
I have to agree with some of the comments on this video, this honestly is the best video explaining different types of shoe welting. I have read a lot of articles and watched many videos but never really understood it completely! Thanks Carl, you're a very good presenter as well!
Thank you for the kind words, and for taking the time to watch my stuff! I’m glad this cleared things up.
Excellent video, for more years, than I can remember I have bought Loakes men's boots with a leather sole, recently I contacted the agent here in Ireland to order a pair of Loakes Bedale boots only to be told that they no longer supply leather soles and offer only gum rubber soles.
At £215.00 I think it's a cheat for as you say rubber soles are glued on and therefore cheaper to produce and impossible to get resoled here in Ireland, yet both my son and I can get our leather-soled boots re-soled locally on average six times swapping between work boots and dress boots. So much for choice and putting the customer first.
bro you are the man. I have learned so much from you. You truly are the best male lifestyle/fashion guy on youtube. oh like others that are click bait or promos
Thanks so much man! I sincerely appreciate that, you made my day.
I’ve started buying Goodyear welted and Blake stitched shoes that are handmade in Northamptonshire (UK).
They’re so well made and repairable, which I think is important when we’re all trying to cut down on waste.
I had to say it, one of my top 3 footwear channel and it's SO GOOD not to have a dark background ;)
All the best!
Very informative video, big up! Norwegian welt style is very popular in traditional hiking boots in countries around the Alps. One example is Hanwag models Stuiben and Bergler made in Germany. But other german, swiss etc. shoe brands also make very robust double stiched alp shoes. Worth to take a look at!
My dressed leather shoes are Norwegian welted, they are timeless pieces, durable, waterproof and rare. Not a lot of companies in the world produce them. I'd rather pay for quality than quantity.
100% Agreed!
This is where you end up when you have 20 boots in your Amazon cart you can't decide on
lol, you are right, so it's better to invest in the 2 best winter boots, one of them for staying dry and warm other to look like a winter boot but more stylish. I have learned if u live in a cold city and you wear boots to go to work and wait for the bus or do a lot of walking on snowy sidewalks etc, you'll need a nice Pajar. Best Canadian boots to have. the second boot must be Sorel. Always have 2 winter boots so u can them 24 hours of resting peroid.
Great explanation! Especially comparing which are more waterproof. I only wish you had explained why is it called “Goodyear” etc. What does it have to do with the tire company?
The Goodyear welt is actually named for the machinery used to create the bond. It was invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear jr. - the son of Charles Goodyear who invented vulcanized rubber and ultimately the tires we use today. You're right on the money!
Excellent and informative video. TIL how different types of sole construction are best adapted to various uses and environments, and are not just about the look of the shoe. It also explains why some shoe types are more expensive, and how manufacturers can simulate the look of more expensive construction, along with tips on how to identify those styles. I wish women’s shoes weren’t mostly garbage.
A great explanation and thank you for the amazing audio quality! I appreciate it!
I’m a big fan of the Norwegian Welt. I work outdoors. Excellent video!
I think you have generalized Goodyear welting with the more traditional hand- (or machine-) stitched welt.
There is an operational difference between these.
Goodyear welting has a preformed rubber or leather welt that can be wrapped around and then glued onto the edge of the insole. After it has bonded, the welt is then machine stitched to the insole.
With hand-stitched welting, a series of transverse hemp grooves are made through the upper-insole join to a depth of half the insole thickness with a curved awl. The welt is then stitched to the upper and insole by running the waxed hemp through the welt and through the transverse grooves.
Dude! Your explanation was super clear! Just what I was looking for. Thank you
Glad to hear it!
Great exploration of the various shoe constructions out there. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for watching!
Wow! Great video Carl! I've just recently discovered your channel. Very informative and you are very well spoken. A lot of information...you should be a cobbler!!
Thank you for an informative video. My problem is with shoes that are not as presented by the salesman. I thought I was buying a Goodyear welt (at the price point) but it was merely sole stitching.
Rapid Blake is by far the best method between the two giving sturdy and water resistant footwear. Stitchdown is the only true water proof method with or without an added protective welt on top of the upper.
Thank you. I've always wondered about Goodyear vs. something else. Now I know. I'm an informed consumer. And I now know that I have a pair of 270 Goodyear welt boots. Cool.
Excellent synopsis! Entertaining and informative. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!!!
Thank you for yet again showing me theres more to shoes then I ever thought! Love the vids man!
Thank you for watching!
Another very informative video. Easy to understand. Very well done, Carl! Thanks
Very informative. Another way of knowing if a shoe is G.W or not is to simply look on the sole. Most G. W shoes would say so.
Really enjoyed the video. Explained in lay man terms and very informative,. Thank you.
Thank you for watching!!!
Thanks for the explanation on these types of welts/shoe construction, very informative.
Thank you for watching!
Carl, good explanation of shoe construction. On occasion I wear my heavy-duty Goodyear welt constructed shoes. These are vintage Florsheim double leather sole/heal 5-nail v-cleat shoes from the 1960’s-1970’s. I have several pairs of these shoes and I love them. Have you ever seen these shoes? You can actually still purchase these shoes on eBay.
I glad I found this video. I had no clue what a Goodyear welt was. My first thought was. What does a car tire have to do with shoes/boot? Thanks for the video.
Hahaha, well the inventor is a relative!
Great video!!!
I am so chuffed!!! Yesterday my Thursday Captain boots got delivered, I wanted to see what the hype was all about😂
I'm wearing them in around the house and they are very good indeed, I need to take them out and about bust so far, awesome!
Thank you for explaining this so simply. It makes sense now
You're very welcome!
Great summary very concise and easy to understand
Wow, the things you learn on UA-cam..Love it.
Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!
Great vid. Can you make a vid on the salami-weld?
The best rubber soles, Dainite full soles. For boots Good year welted. For Dress shoes, I highly recommend spike Dainite full sholes. For snow or winter boots, Thermoplastic Rubber Shoe Soles
My father had shoe shop in early 60s one thing I remember him saying was when buying new shoes make sure they have Goodyear welt on them, only problem I had was that I was a kid about 7 years old and only would ware tennis shoes at that time Ahahahahahaaha!
Great video man good and thorough 👍🏼
I work on all three cemented, Blake and Goodyear welted at the shoe repair I work at everyday! Stitching the soles on Goodyear welted is always super fun once you get the hang of it but super stressful first few years learning to master it, like anything else Lol
I wear a pair of amber harness iron rangers to work everyday too I can stand for 10 hours no problem, I also put a black vibram christy sole on it I think more red wing fans should start putting Christie’s on their iron rangers
Great Video Mate....Never knew there were so many style of boot construction. ! Cheers ! !
Thank you! I didn’t even cover some of the more exotic ones, but chances are you’ll never see them in the wild anyhow. Thanks for watching!
I like Blake stitch and moccasins in summer. Goodyear welt is good for a UK winter...
Hahahaha...Shoe Goo! That stuff has prolonged the death of many cheap shoes that I have owned.
Thank you for a wonderful video. I learned a lot of information on Goodyear Welt.
Thank you for watching!
Love the content - thanks for the education! Having said that, I can see why people might criticize the Blake stitching methods (of either variety. Sounds to me like an outsized expense to get an aesthetic outcome with compromised water resistance (which I’d infer extends to a high cost to re-sole). Granted, it gives a higher degree of flexibility, but sounds like the Goodyear welt is a superior choice for me as I’d happily take short term stiffness for durability and water resistance (and all other things being equal, I tend to like the aesthetic of a more
Prominent lip. Having said all that - thanks again!
What about "stitchdown" I was surprised you didn't mention that method.
Great video - really well explained ... thanks for pulling this together!
My pleasure!
Thanks for the Info,quite a pleasant and clear explanation
I'm happy you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
First time here on your channel. Great 👍 overview, thank you. I 🤔 think I'll stay for awhile.
Thank you, and welcome!
Just discovered your channel and I love it. Your passion shows!
Thank you so much!
theres also stitchdown, hand welted and moccisan construction. goodyear welt was the first way that im aware of to really mass produce shoes and boots, so nothing special there.
its a decent method but i dont think it should be used on outdoor footwear as the welt is basically a channel for water to get in between the welt and upper and rot the welt stitching, which has no chance to dry because its under the shoe with a bunch of cork or other matereals that can stay wet for a long time. sometimes sweat does this as well.
the best outdoor boots are storm welted (as you mentioned), stitchdown (whites, wesco. etc) or some form of moccisan construction (russel)
You have in channel stitching as well .. if you look at the bottom the stitching is not visible.. but its there
I thought it was the bump left when you get smacked by a steel-belted radial.
Thank you. I was wanting to know what you went over in this video.
I have a A.Testoni shoes that’s a hybrid of Goodyear self and Bolognese. It’s quite pricey, around 1K.
Well, the Goodyear welt isn't just about stitching or the leather welt. For an example the goodyear welt construction which Solovair uses in many of their shoes is based on a rubber welt, and instead of stitching the outsole is heat sealed. Those heat selaed outsoles are totally replaceable and you can buy new outsoles from Solovair website.
you are good for explaining. thanks boss, new knowledge to me about good year,bologna.thx...
You are most welcome
When I saw goodyear in you're thumbnail I thought you where talking about tires 😂
Great video and fantastic explanation, thanks!
As a complete amateur trying to build my own shoe, this was very helpful.
Great vid, can anyone help answer my overall question below?
According to it's definition a WELT is:
A leather rim sewn around the edge of a shoe upper to which the sole is attached.
And honestly, that's exactly what I think of when I hear the words "Goodyear welt" or "storm welt", or just the word "welt" alone, for that matter. But what about a "blake welt" aka "blake sewn"? A blake welt/sewn doesn't have a piece of leather (or other material) around the rim of the midsole, so does it even constitute as a welt? It's missing the seemingly most important part of a welt, i.e. the leather rim (unless it does have it and if so please tell me, lol). Is this why I often see it being referred to as "blake swen" as opposed to a blake welt? And if a blake welt is indeed a type of welt then the above definition needs to be revised. Because a blake welt is a process where a stitch goes through the top of the midsole all the way through the bottom of the outsole via a stitch. That stitch continuously goes around the rim of the midsole joining the midsole and outsole. Now according to Google's definition above, this is not a welt beacuse it doesn't have a piece of material like leather that is sewn around the rim of the midsole.
I would like to know what you guys think about the welt on this boot in the link below. Their website describes it as having a "Thick leather welt". It's quite hard to make out but when I zoomed in really close I can see what appears to be a leather welt on top of the midsloe. But this clearly isn't a Goodyear welt, so what is it? If it does have a leather welt but isn't a Goodyear/storm/Norwegian welt then what could it be? I'm so confused, lol. Help.
goo.gl/dJCUvV
I think you are amongst the majority of men who are thrown by the Blake stitch and Goodyear welt. In the beginning I thought for sure there was a piece of rubber tire on Goodyear welted shoes!
You're correct, the "welt" is a strip of leather which acts as a buffer or trim between the sole and the lower. You'll see different takes on this with some being larger (Grenson Shoes, Dub Trio, and most Japanese shoemakers) and others being smaller like most Italian styles.
The Blake stitch is just that, and not a welt at all. It's a rather simple concept with no strip of leather and instead relying on stitching to secure the upper to the lower. Blake rapid is yet another version of this method.
The one thing I didn't mention in this video is Sitchdown construction which is almost the opposite of Blake stitch with the upper being turned outward and flanged, then stitched to the sole. You'll see this on a lot of Danner boots.
I hope this clears things up!
Carl Murawski
I really appreciate your feedback! And thanks for confirming my assumption.
Hey, did you take a look at the boots in the link I posted? I would really like to get your professional opinion on what type of stitch or welt the shoe is constructed with. They describe the boot as having "a thick leather welt". And honestly, when you zoom in close on the midsole next to the toebox of the image of the single boot (second image from the top down, facing left) there appears to be a brown leather strip/welt on said midsole. But because they don't name the type of welt that the shoe allegedly possesses, it makes me think that it's not a legitimate welt and more of a blake stitch (or a similar type of stitch) with some leather around the midsole to mimic a Goodyear type welt. And if that's untrue, wouldn't that be false advertisement? Thanks again, for the help.
Hi Carl good video. I have a question. I wear a lot of military boots, especially Italian made amphibious boots made for parachutists and commando raids. They are very expensive and being waterproof they have rubber soles usually Vibram. They get a lot of abuse and now im coming to re-sole I am told they can be resoled easily? do you have any experience of these types of boots?
You honestly can't beat a goodyear welt. In my opinion if your looking for a great dress shoe try Allen Edmonds. They have real leather and goodyear welt shoes.
Is the Goodyear welt named after the person who invented it or the tire & rubber company? I was always under the impression it was the latter... After watching this video I'm thinking I am wrong.
It actually was! The welt is really named after the machinery which makes it, but that was invented by Charles Goodyear who was the son of the founder of Goodyear.
@@CarlMurawski Thank you! All my years of wondering finally have an answer. :)
youre good for explaining. thank you brother, new knowledge to me about leather shoes.
Thank you for the kind words! My hope is that I can explain things simply enough to make sense to guys like me who only need a working knowledge of shoe construction. Every guide I've seen is either oversimplified or way too complex, hopefully this hits a sweet spot for someone just looking to increase their knowledge.
Hey man
Love the video. Very well presented. However, you neglected to mention anything about the name itself. Why is it called a goodyear welt? History on the name. Any affiliation with the tire company? Pretty important for the layman. Thanks!
I got collection of footwear,and it was good to know, that I have 2 goodyear pairs❤❤
nice job at explaning!
Nice.. Easy to understand!!
Very informative video. I want to get my first pair of boots that can be dressed up or down. I'm interested in the Thursday Boot but I'm not sure I want to start with a $200 pair of shoes right off the bat.
In that case I’d check out Nordstrom Rack. You can get into a pair of decent boots for around $100.00. Most of the time they’ll be seconds but often they have blemishes or issues you can’t even notice.
New England Style Consulting Thank you. Really appreciate the advice.
I have some Bed Stu boots. I love them. Try ebay even used they are worth it.
Have you ever encountered a shoes construction "Blake - rapid stich"? I just stumbled into knowing it while I looked for shoe construction on Google? I found there were kind of a greal deal of articles talking about it but i didn't any specific illustrations for it. Could You do a video to verify blake rapid stich?
Broken down perfectly!
This was a great video. Great diagrams, good explanation and information. Thank you sir !
Thanks for watching!
What about Stitch Down construction ? I see some good brand use that, like Viberg, Truman,... Can you tell the pros and cons of this method and compare with GYW method
It's difficult to explain without a visual but stitch down is essentially where the material from the upper is flanged out and then secured to the lower. It's similar in many ways to the Goodyear Welt but missing the actual welt piece of material on top and is now underneath.
Carl Murawski many people said that boots made by Stitch Down construction can not resole many time like GYW. I like the Viberg service boots but if it can not resole many time like Goodyear welt i will not be happy about a high price boots like that, the Viberg Shell Cordovan is crazy expensive but they're all Stitch Down method :(
Great presentation man, thank you.
I’m looking for a well cushioned hiking boot or walking shoe that the cushioning doesn’t compress or lose its cushion. EVA cushioning wears out in my shoes within 2 months.
Nicely done
It's so hard to find women's Good year welt shoes. Some will make good year welt for the men's shoes but not on their womens. I was finally able to find a company that makes a decent amount of women's shoes that are also good year welt, just got my first pair and currently breaking them in.
Very cool! What company? If you don’t mind sharing
@@CarlMurawski Miles&Louie!
Only 5 jackets!
Great pics! Surprised you don’t have any waxed canvas in your pics. Did you end up already getting rid of your huckberry waxed trucker. That would be in my five!
I did, I ended up selling it to a viewer who wanted one but couldn't afford it.
@@CarlMurawski that’s awesome! Thanks for the reply!
Lol, I just realized this comment went to the next video that auto played not the most recent one. 😅
The gy welt is a hallmark to look for that's For sure, but it's main advantage is the ability to resole etc. It that somehow it imparts automatic high quality to other important asoects.of the shoe, ie , but the upper like you alluded, matters, it it's junk hide, it won't age well , crease up ugly , and so the upper matters, the welt.matters, and inner lining matters, great discussion man.
All good points, and one thing I’d like to explore in a future video is shoe breaks and the difference between cheap leather, quality leather, and shell cordovan. Of course if I tried to fit it all in one video it would be an hour long!
Can you recomend a manufacturer for welted brogues in Europe
Useful and interesting. Thanks a lot!
Much appreciated! Thanks for watching
Excellent and informative video. Good work sir!
Much appreciated my friend!
Thanks for the explanations. Where did you find the diagrams? I want to post/link your video on my website with a pictorial and I really like the cutaway pictures you show in this one. Thanks, Hillary Marek from Hillary's of Houston Luxury Clothing and Vintage Boutiques
Thank you Hillary, I got the diagrams from a number of different sources. Some were advertisements from shoe manufacturers, and others were simply a Google image search. I wish I had more specific information for you, but this was a few months back and my memory isn't as good as it once was.
Well thanks for giving me a place to start. I'll check out Google and see what I can dig up. Lmk if you ever want to collaborate. I have an extensive collection and I'm always open to brand ambassador agreements. I supply the luxury you supply the talent and I comp you with some of the best heritage brand clothing out there for your time.
What about the Danner stitch down method...?
Great video
I cant tell what I have. Seems like goodyear because of the stiches and i think its cork between the upper and outer sole but has a rubber sole which doesnt show the stitches through the rubber. Could a rubber sole be glued onto the bottom and cover the goodyear welt stiches? Boots seem stiff. UK brand called Dundee I cant find anything on (made in portugal) a cap toe boot with hook laces at the top.
Thank you for sharing 🙂
Very good video
Nice information! Thanks
Thanks for watching!!!
Is it possible to dye the welt/stitching?
So the yellow stitching on Doc Martens are just for looks?
Yes, Doc Martens are Goodyear welted but with that trademark yellow thread.
And now made in China. If you like Docs, try Gripfast. English made and rugged
Wow! Very informative and helpful
That you for the kind words!
What about Hand Welted? There is a difference between factory made Goodyear and Hand Welted.
Well yes, I mentioned that I didn’t cover every single method. The Goodyear welt is only a true Goodyear welt if it’s performed with a Goodyear welting machine. Hand welting is better in almost every way though.