Thanks for the video. I could use some advice: I switched out the orifice to make my sr400 a propane heater but I don’t get ignition UNLESS I reduce the airflow at the intake. If I cup my hand over it and restrict about 50 percent of the flow the burner will light but extinguish if I remove my hand. I cannot find any info on what kind of propane tank to use, so I had been using our BBQ 20 pound tank until we decide whether or not it’s worth it to get a larger one. Do you think this is not supplying enough pressure? I bought a high flow regulator but when I increase the psi beyond even 1, the control valve makes a fast clicking sound and doesn’t release any gas. It does release gas effortlessly with the small typical bbq regulator. Also my manometer reads 9 where you reads 4, and only drops to 4.5 when the control valve opens, so it would seem there is too much air to gas ratio? So many questions! Lol
You state to connect the pressure tap to the high side of the meter and vent to low side. However, the heater manual states the complete opposite. Which is correct?
So I ran it both ways. I switched it to what the manual says to do and hooked up the upper tube to the high side (+ on the manometer) and it ran way better. Otherwise you’d be running (+0.2”). It’s possible his meter doesn’t read negative so his version is a work around in that case. Great video nonetheless, couldn’t have figured out this propane conversion I did without this guys help.
I have a mastertemp 250 as well. Just purchased from a previous owner. Its less than a year old. Heater Ignites and then shuts off after about 10-15 seconds. I switched the heater from Natural gas to Propane. I changed the Orifice and replaced with propane. Bought a regulator for propane. Any ideas what it could be? I have replaced the high limit switch and no luck.
I Just bought my digital manometer. is it okay that it comes with 1/8th inch tubes/ports? I also bout a 1/4 x /1/4 x 1/8 inch tee so I could hook into the same heaters gas valve. starite max e therm.
If you screw the gas valve adjustment screw too far in. It won't come up anymore, and you will need a new gas valve. 😢😢😢 OEM means big bucks! Terrible design! You can take the heat exchanger out and clean it in a vat of CLR and water. Take HSI out to prevent breaking it. Overall in my opinion hate the gas valve. I also hate the costs of anything on this heater. Stack temperature senser is too expensive and fails quickly if it senses high temperature situations. Also the temperature regulator seems like old school car thermostat. Yet, this too I believe is over priced. My biggest complaint is calcium buids up even when you try your best to treat the water. So, the average person will be left with spend $$ or spend $$$ on purchasing new heater. I'm an HVAC mechanic luckily but the parts are ridiculously expensive.
Thank you for all the help. I have seen a lot of your video's and it helps me learn, so I can fix customers heaters better.
Thanks for the tips. Need help learning more about the mastertemp.
Thanks for the video. I could use some advice: I switched out the orifice to make my sr400 a propane heater but I don’t get ignition UNLESS I reduce the airflow at the intake. If I cup my hand over it and restrict about 50 percent of the flow the burner will light but extinguish if I remove my hand. I cannot find any info on what kind of propane tank to use, so I had been using our BBQ 20 pound tank until we decide whether or not it’s worth it to get a larger one. Do you think this is not supplying enough pressure? I bought a high flow regulator but when I increase the psi beyond even 1, the control valve makes a fast clicking sound and doesn’t release any gas. It does release gas effortlessly with the small typical bbq regulator.
Also my manometer reads 9 where you reads 4, and only drops to 4.5 when the control valve opens, so it would seem there is too much air to gas ratio?
So many questions! Lol
Thanks Craig you rock
You state to connect the pressure tap to the high side of the meter and vent to low side. However, the heater manual states the complete opposite. Which is correct?
I’m wondering the same thing
So I ran it both ways. I switched it to what the manual says to do and hooked up the upper tube to the high side (+ on the manometer) and it ran way better. Otherwise you’d be running (+0.2”). It’s possible his meter doesn’t read negative so his version is a work around in that case. Great video nonetheless, couldn’t have figured out this propane conversion I did without this guys help.
Is the gas pressure adjustment you demonstrated for front side or manifold side pressure? Thanks Craig.
I have a mastertemp 250 as well. Just purchased from a previous owner. Its less than a year old. Heater Ignites and then shuts off after about 10-15 seconds. I switched the heater from Natural gas to Propane. I changed the Orifice and replaced with propane. Bought a regulator for propane. Any ideas what it could be? I have replaced the high limit switch and no luck.
thermal regulator and pressure switch - both easy to fix
I Just bought my digital manometer. is it okay that it comes with 1/8th inch tubes/ports? I also bout a 1/4 x /1/4 x 1/8 inch tee so I could hook into the same heaters gas valve. starite max e therm.
is that a drip leg pointing up?
not from china...
It's for future BBQ
If you screw the gas valve adjustment screw too far in. It won't come up anymore, and you will need a new gas valve. 😢😢😢 OEM means big bucks! Terrible design! You can take the heat exchanger out and clean it in a vat of CLR and water. Take HSI out to prevent breaking it. Overall in my opinion hate the gas valve. I also hate the costs of anything on this heater. Stack temperature senser is too expensive and fails quickly if it senses high temperature situations. Also the temperature regulator seems like old school car thermostat. Yet, this too I believe is over priced. My biggest complaint is calcium buids up even when you try your best to treat the water. So, the average person will be left with spend $$ or spend $$$ on purchasing new heater. I'm an HVAC mechanic luckily but the parts are ridiculously expensive.
No way to fix gas vale once you've screwed in the adjustment too far?
Sure looks like it is but I have one too, with a shut off valve, just in Case I need to connect my generator