We've received a lot of requests for the metal box we designed for the air handler unit. We now have formal plans available on our website! Air Handler Plenum Design ⬇ www.masondixonacres.com/products/mrcool-universal-2-3-ton-air-handler-return-plenum-design
I installed this exact unit 2 winters ago. You will love it... The metal filter is electrostatic and doesn't hurt anything. I have a paper filter and the metal electrostatic one. I have a heat strip for backup but it doesn't run. The 2 ton switches are wrong for the instructions. I think you saw the same problems I did. We are in Missouri and it has worked at -20 and still heated the house. July here 100 degree days and my electric bill is $125 best ever. I have crappy videos of my install. Nothing as good as yours! If you start it up in cool and it heats, you did nothing wrong , it's the switch on your thermostat. Most ac units default is cool . Mr Cool default is heat . It's the o/b switch if I remember correctly. Good luck!
Thank you for that tip!! Glad to hear the unit has been doing great for you. Getting insulation in now, then our vapor control layer and I will do a start up and flow balance. Stay tuned
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
You want to wire up the D terminals between indoor and outdoor unit. During defrost, the air handler fan will cycle down so it's not blasting cold air.
Just installed a mrcool Universal system with no heat kit so you're saying what I should do is have the D wire hooked up on the condenser Hooked Up to the D wire on the air handler?
@@rvamtbram when the condenser runs in defrost, does the air handler run for 5min before it stops or does it stop right when the condenser begins its defrost cycle,,? also , is it normal for the fan (air handler) to run for 5min after the condenser has reached the set temp on the thermostat,? i am assuming you also have a mr cool universal...
Having 8 Wire when you only need 6 for your thermostat is good actually. It gives you 2 spare wires to use if one gets damaged down the road and you dont have to run new thermostat wire !
I learned later it was the gun, I had to spend more on the great stuff branded gun and it worked. However I've never had luck with the cleaner, it doesn't seem to be pressurized so it won't squirt. Might have gotten another lemon there too though..
No need for the screen. Or additional 1” filter. It’ll only add static pressure…I installed a similar vrf heat pump with an external 4” filter cabinet. I use a merv 13 4” pleated filter that I buy from local distribution. 20x20 is a common size so should be easy to find.
Hi. Great job! Can you please elaborate more on the final Thermostat > Indoor Unit > Outdoor Unit wiring? I can't seem to get it work, following their instruction manual. If you can please share...
Oh man. What a mess with the foam gun. I only have one data point to add on the foam gun, but it seems like maybe you had something weird going on in your particular case with either a defective can or gun. I've run dozens of cans through my pro gun, swapped them out mid-can, re-fitted partial cans, and never experienced a failure like that! I've even had the gun with an attached can fall about 6ft and knock the can off the threads..other than a small amount of loss, i was able to screw the can back on and it continued to work. I do make sure every time i change a can, i use the can of cleaner to both clean out the gun, but also spraying the cleaner on the gun and the partial remaining can's mating surfaces to ensure they're totally clean before storing either.
Wow I have no idea how you've done it. Maybe it's the gun I have. I got it with a kit of their subfloor adhesive off some website called "A Warehouse Full" and it's their own branded gun, not the Great Stuff brand gun. I think I'll need to buy the OEM gun.. I still have most of a case left so I'm not letting that go to waste! Something must have been going on with that can too - even with a clean spout and nothing attached it wouldn't stop leaking.. what a freakin mess 😅
You may need to install a vent on the drain side of the trap. I just installed one with a short drain with no vent and it airlocked! The pan filled up with water. I put a condensate float switch in the second drain port that shut down the ac when it filled up. My air handler is in the attic so it did it's job!
Interesting, I'm surprised it's possible with the positive pressure in the cabinet which I would guess is a supply of air to backfill the water draining out the trap. I'll have to keep an eye on it!
@@MasonDixonAcres It's actually negative pressure because the blower is pulling air through the coils. It happened almost immediately after turning it on the first time. It ran for a day and a half before it air locked long enough to fill the pan. It's a good thing to have a trap on the Mr cool because otherwise it could suck in dirty air. I guess there was just enough vacuum the way my drain is set up to cause that. Makes me wonder about the winter when the water evaporates from the trap and it's pulling dirty air in. Edit, another though is I'm in Houston where the humidity is really high so if you're in a drier area yours may not condensate as much water.
Oh yeah negative pressure would make sense. I can see how that would happen then. I can’t imagine more than a negligible amount of air would draw through that long condensate pipe compared to the return ductwork. The beauty of the clear trap.. as long as I keep an eye on it 😁
I think Great Stuff only works with their guns as I tried theirs in my other gun (same as yours) and had the same results.. I have since bought the great stuff gun and it works flawlessly..
I don't know if you could consider these quick connect lines a traditional flared connection, I didn't look at them super closely honestly. I did consider the Nylog but the specs warned not to do it so I decided not to.
@@MasonDixonAcres Where in the manual did it indicate this? I was trying to find it again since I am doing my install. I had found somewhere, someone advised that lack of Nylog is the main reason these no-vac quick connects leak out.
Actually just finished the ductwork and waiting until interior is basically finished to start it up to keep dust out of the system. Will have a start up & balancing video coming
I wonder if I can ask you something I installed a 5 ton Mr cool 18 seer inverter heat pump it has been running fine for about a year and a half tried to turn the heat on and nothing I cheackes the air handler it seems to be fine went outside to check the condencer pulled panal off the mother board showing on but the unit is not on I reset the breaker and it sounds like its making a very low thumping noise and the mother board is showing 00 until the thumping noise stops than it will show on but the unit is not on I'm thinking it may be the compaserter not wanting to start up just not shire where its located at on this unit wonderingbif you may have a ideal?
Know this is a year old, but curious what you set as far as dip switches? I also am using ecobee thermostat but having hard time getting it to work because at a loss because of dip setting on handler/outside unit
Followed the manual diagram for 2-ton setting, both indoor and outdoor unit. It sends the same signals to the Ecobee as a standard air handler, mine worked no problem. I have a hand drawn wiring diagram shown in our dehum video. Startup video for this system is in the editing pipeline
Great video! I'm looking to purchase the same system. Did the pre-charged line set come with the 4 fittings to adapt to the two units? No seller I've found can answer that question. Thanks!
I believe it was the Universal system (not the lineset) that came with the adapters, but yes. It came with adapters for either the No Vac quick connect lines, or traditional brazed lines. If you call MRCOOL, they will tell you exactly. Their customer service is honestly some of the best I've ever dealt with - real people sitting in Kentucky.
You are awesome! Thank you for getting back to me. 😁 The photos of the line set boxes on various websites that sell these units, show the 4 fittings, but it makes sense that they would come with the two units. I will call Mr. Cool in the morning to verify that. Thanks again! I subbed and will enjoy catching up on your videos! 😊
Hi there , so the outdoor unit uses 220 and the inside unit fan uses 115,? Can you please expand on this, I’m installing the same unit and I’m stuck in this step, thank you for this amazing video
@@MasonDixonAcres hi again, so this is what I have , I have a 30amp barker in my electrical box just for this unit, then from there I run a line to a disconnect box the using 10/3 wire, from the disconnect box I run a line to the outside unit, now my question would be , from the outside unit do I run a cable to the inside unit? Thank you .😊
No, separate circuit for the indoor unit. If you have any additional questions just call their tech support, they are fantastic and answered many questions I had.
Already passed, it's pretty well outside code required clearances of the panel. That said, if I could've had the foresight to scoot the panel a foot or so to the left, I would have
Is the forklift totally necessary? asking in earnest as I was hoping to install a unit like this in my attic which means getting it on the roof and into the attic... is that going to be a nightmare?
Did you ever have an issue of your thermostat wires not receiving any power? I'm currently finishing install, but my system isn't energizing the wires.
Assuming you have zero intention of installing heat strips in your indoor air handler - is it a bad idea to use the 240V for the outdoor unit and also use that to power the indoor unit air handler?
@@davidpeiffer2096 Yes MrCool calls it their universal series,but people in the know like myself call it by the manufacturers name a Gree Flex.I let people know this stuff so that they truly know what their buying because a lot of HVAC techs inform customers of buying something of higher quality hence much higher price and not even know its actually a chinese manufactured item.Gree is really good quailty,but I know this unit cost about 1000cad plus shipping.We are now seeing Mitsubishi and Trane units made by Gree and priced at Mitsubishi prices.Some are even cutting down the Chinese mini splits while unknowingly selling them for much higher prices,and customers do not even know this.Midea and Gree are basically the largest manufacturers of HVAC equipment in the world.I have even seen here on UA-cam HVAC tech cutting down a mini split while promoting another unit when both units were made by the same manufacturer.
Consumer diy ring terminals are not rated for that amperage! 27 amps for yellows. You should be using something like a Panduit uninsulated ring terminal. They are twice the thickness on the ring. Also you do not have to take off the panel to install the condensate drain. There is no pressure so you do not need to wrench it down..
Thanks! Yeah I probably should have used something more robust for that connection, but I don't think it'll be an issue. The nameplate lists a max 16A draw for the compressor and 1.5A for the fan. I'm also in the 2-ton setting so it should be pretty well within the limits of the cheap terminal. When I clean it out next year and they look melty I'll know for sure 😂
Ductwork video coming up soon! Completely depends on the size of the house, branches & lengths, turns, etc. to get it right, you most likely will need to hire a professional designer with access to the right software. Avoid the "rule of thumb" methods that most ductwork contractors use.
I can’t really understand why you guys did baseboard heat on the bottom and a heat pump for the top when you could’ve used the Mr cool system for both floors. Seems like a waste of money.
@@MasonDixonAcres lol You could’ve just done a small mini split for the garage area specifically and then use Mr. cool for the rest of your house. Just seems really complicated but to each their own.
Unless you are abosulutely sure you won't be doing anymore work around those plumbing on that wall, no matter what your local code enforcement said, I'd cover all those exposed wires up if I'm you. I go by NEC, not the local code enforcement. Those colored plastic cladding are not as tough as you think they are.
Great Stuff is really great stuff, but you CANNOT reuse a used can. well, it's not that you CAN'T, but it never works as well as a fresh can does. and those "Pro Guns" are really garbage, and not necessary in most cases. but you really need to clean them out/off IMMEDIATELY after each use! that stuff is a hassle to remove when it's dry.
I talked to the MrCool about the warranty, in this case with Mason, they confirmed that they still cover the warranty cover for the universal unit since the system made for DIY. I know in the manual said they won't.
When having the pros install it almost triples the price, you could afford to install it once as practice and then send it to the dump when it doesn't work, and then do it again. And still save money. It's hard to justify the price if you have some diy capability.
@@kettch42 That is exactly right and it is not like Mr Cool is a no name brand.. They are made by Midea who is the worlds largest manufacturer of AC products. I have been installing them on mine, my friends and families homes for 8 years now and I have NEVER had an issue. All these 'pro's' just get mad that people can install these for a fraction of the cost.. Hell, I just bought another Mr Cool 18k Unit for $810 for my new garage. Might cost me another $90 in wire/disconnect to install and I bet I couldn't have one of these 'pro's' do it for under $4k...
We've received a lot of requests for the metal box we designed for the air handler unit. We now have formal plans available on our website!
Air Handler Plenum Design ⬇
www.masondixonacres.com/products/mrcool-universal-2-3-ton-air-handler-return-plenum-design
I installed this exact unit 2 winters ago. You will love it... The metal filter is electrostatic and doesn't hurt anything. I have a paper filter and the metal electrostatic one. I have a heat strip for backup but it doesn't run. The 2 ton switches are wrong for the instructions. I think you saw the same problems I did. We are in Missouri and it has worked at -20 and still heated the house. July here 100 degree days and my electric bill is $125 best ever. I have crappy videos of my install. Nothing as good as yours!
If you start it up in cool and it heats, you did nothing wrong , it's the switch on your thermostat. Most ac units default is cool . Mr Cool default is heat . It's the o/b switch if I remember correctly. Good luck!
Thank you for that tip!! Glad to hear the unit has been doing great for you. Getting insulation in now, then our vapor control layer and I will do a start up and flow balance. Stay tuned
I have a 4 ton and when it dips below 25° I lose heat. I just added a heat strip (which brought me here). I don’t even know when the heat strip is on.
That will kill your blower motor and compressor. 2 filters will create way too much static pressure.
thanks for this video i got my duct work done and my unit is arriving Monday wish me luck diyers
how'd it go? about to do the same
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
You want to wire up the D terminals between indoor and outdoor unit. During defrost, the air handler fan will cycle down so it's not blasting cold air.
Just installed a mrcool Universal system with no heat kit so you're saying what I should do is have the D wire hooked up on the condenser Hooked Up to the D wire on the air handler?
@@karmendimas5274 That's correct
@@rvamtbram when the condenser runs in defrost, does the air handler run for 5min before it stops or does it stop right when the condenser begins its defrost cycle,,?
also , is it normal for the fan (air handler) to run for 5min after the condenser has reached the set temp on the thermostat,? i am assuming you also have a mr cool universal...
Having 8 Wire when you only need 6 for your thermostat is good actually. It gives you 2 spare wires to use if one gets damaged down the road and you dont have to run new thermostat wire !
Great job minus the spray foam. The pro guns are awesome! Best part is the cleaner that you can buy to clean the gun up between uses.
I learned later it was the gun, I had to spend more on the great stuff branded gun and it worked. However I've never had luck with the cleaner, it doesn't seem to be pressurized so it won't squirt. Might have gotten another lemon there too though..
I loved my foam gun. Always have a can of the thread on cleaner for inbetween. Mine was cheep amazon one.
No need for the screen. Or additional 1” filter. It’ll only add static pressure…I installed a similar vrf heat pump with an external 4” filter cabinet. I use a merv 13 4” pleated filter that I buy from local distribution. 20x20 is a common size so should be easy to find.
Good to know, thank you!
I never knew MR Cool made DIY split system.
Yep! It's been amazing through this crazy hot summer.
I am currently designing our dream house that we are starting next spring. Can you please kinkly tell me what "cheap architect software" you are using
I’m interested in knowing this as well.
haha it's called "chief architect"
Hi. Great job! Can you please elaborate more on the final Thermostat > Indoor Unit > Outdoor Unit wiring? I can't seem to get it work, following their instruction manual. If you can please share...
Initial startup video is in the works with that info! In the mean time their support team is awesome, just give them a call
Oh man. What a mess with the foam gun. I only have one data point to add on the foam gun, but it seems like maybe you had something weird going on in your particular case with either a defective can or gun. I've run dozens of cans through my pro gun, swapped them out mid-can, re-fitted partial cans, and never experienced a failure like that! I've even had the gun with an attached can fall about 6ft and knock the can off the threads..other than a small amount of loss, i was able to screw the can back on and it continued to work. I do make sure every time i change a can, i use the can of cleaner to both clean out the gun, but also spraying the cleaner on the gun and the partial remaining can's mating surfaces to ensure they're totally clean before storing either.
Wow I have no idea how you've done it. Maybe it's the gun I have. I got it with a kit of their subfloor adhesive off some website called "A Warehouse Full" and it's their own branded gun, not the Great Stuff brand gun. I think I'll need to buy the OEM gun.. I still have most of a case left so I'm not letting that go to waste! Something must have been going on with that can too - even with a clean spout and nothing attached it wouldn't stop leaking.. what a freakin mess 😅
I’ve ran about 50+ cans through my progun and have not had a problem with it yet.
You may need to install a vent on the drain side of the trap. I just installed one with a short drain with no vent and it airlocked! The pan filled up with water. I put a condensate float switch in the second drain port that shut down the ac when it filled up. My air handler is in the attic so it did it's job!
Interesting, I'm surprised it's possible with the positive pressure in the cabinet which I would guess is a supply of air to backfill the water draining out the trap. I'll have to keep an eye on it!
@@MasonDixonAcres It's actually negative pressure because the blower is pulling air through the coils. It happened almost immediately after turning it on the first time. It ran for a day and a half before it air locked long enough to fill the pan. It's a good thing to have a trap on the Mr cool because otherwise it could suck in dirty air. I guess there was just enough vacuum the way my drain is set up to cause that.
Makes me wonder about the winter when the water evaporates from the trap and it's pulling dirty air in.
Edit, another though is I'm in Houston where the humidity is really high so if you're in a drier area yours may not condensate as much water.
Oh yeah negative pressure would make sense. I can see how that would happen then. I can’t imagine more than a negligible amount of air would draw through that long condensate pipe compared to the return ductwork. The beauty of the clear trap.. as long as I keep an eye on it 😁
kudos from singapore. 👏
Can you do a video on the duct work please.
Coming soon to a UA-cam screen near you 😉
How soon is soon? lol @@MasonDixonAcres
Hello Mason, can you please share what did you use for the thermostat? Is it Nest? If not then any idea - is it compatible?
Ecobee Pro! More to come in the startup video
Did you wind up installing the heat strips or was it sufficient enough without them?
No need for them in a well air sealed and insulated home!
I think Great Stuff only works with their guns as I tried theirs in my other gun (same as yours) and had the same results.. I have since bought the great stuff gun and it works flawlessly..
Ahh gotcha thank you for that! It's definitely the gun's fault. I figured as much when the cleaner can wouldn't do anything in that gun.
Are you going to make a video showing the ducting? I’m mostly curious about how it connects to the air handler. Loved the video thanks.
That's the plan! We are working on mechanical rough-ins now. The video will likely be out in several weeks!
Also, it’s good practice to use Nylog on any flared HVAC connection…not sure if you did or not.
I don't know if you could consider these quick connect lines a traditional flared connection, I didn't look at them super closely honestly. I did consider the Nylog but the specs warned not to do it so I decided not to.
@@MasonDixonAcres Where in the manual did it indicate this? I was trying to find it again since I am doing my install. I had found somewhere, someone advised that lack of Nylog is the main reason these no-vac quick connects leak out.
Hey so how is your mr cool unit holding up. Have you had any issue with it. I would like to het the same unit. Especially after seeing your video....
Actually just finished the ductwork and waiting until interior is basically finished to start it up to keep dust out of the system. Will have a start up & balancing video coming
Thank you for the video I am able to install my Mr cool universal by myself .
You want to mount the thermostat 6ft from a central return.
Can you post your sketch of the sheet metal box? Need to get one made up myself just like that. Did you end up finishing the duct project yet?
Ducts are upcoming, if you email us I can send ya the sketch
Me too!! Email you tomorrow - thank you!!
I would also like a copy of the sketch please, I will be ordering one of these soon
Do you have video on the rest of this? Thank you!
Coming soon!
Excellent job sir thank you
I wonder if I can ask you something I installed a 5 ton Mr cool 18 seer inverter heat pump it has been running fine for about a year and a half tried to turn the heat on and nothing I cheackes the air handler it seems to be fine went outside to check the condencer pulled panal off the mother board showing on but the unit is not on I reset the breaker and it sounds like its making a very low thumping noise and the mother board is showing 00 until the thumping noise stops than it will show on but the unit is not on I'm thinking it may be the compaserter not wanting to start up just not shire where its located at on this unit wonderingbif you may have a ideal?
That’s the thing with spray foam, it just keeps expanding and doesn’t stop.
You mentioned the indoor air handler was just a 15 amp circuit. Was that 110V or 220V?
220.
White wire should be marked with red tape not black. Also dont use crimp on terminals on the condenser power. They are only rated at 15 amps.
Know this is a year old, but curious what you set as far as dip switches? I also am using ecobee thermostat but having hard time getting it to work because at a loss because of dip setting on handler/outside unit
Followed the manual diagram for 2-ton setting, both indoor and outdoor unit. It sends the same signals to the Ecobee as a standard air handler, mine worked no problem. I have a hand drawn wiring diagram shown in our dehum video. Startup video for this system is in the editing pipeline
I just order this unit... How large is the insulation on the line set? Do you think they will fit in a single 4inch pipe chase?
what is the outside diameter of the line set?
Great video! I'm looking to purchase the same system. Did the pre-charged line set come with the 4 fittings to adapt to the two units? No seller I've found can answer that question. Thanks!
I believe it was the Universal system (not the lineset) that came with the adapters, but yes. It came with adapters for either the No Vac quick connect lines, or traditional brazed lines. If you call MRCOOL, they will tell you exactly. Their customer service is honestly some of the best I've ever dealt with - real people sitting in Kentucky.
You are awesome! Thank you for getting back to me. 😁
The photos of the line set boxes on various websites that sell these units, show the 4 fittings, but it makes sense that they would come with the two units.
I will call Mr. Cool in the morning to verify that.
Thanks again! I subbed and will enjoy catching up on your videos! 😊
Hi there , so the outdoor unit uses 220 and the inside unit fan uses 115,? Can you please expand on this, I’m installing the same unit and I’m stuck in this step, thank you for this amazing video
Inside also used 220, 15A double pole breaker. Full load amperage of the fan is 2A so a 14 ga wire is all you need since it’s a dedicated circuit.
@@MasonDixonAcres hi again, so this is what I have , I have a 30amp barker in my electrical box just for this unit, then from there I run a line to a disconnect box the using 10/3 wire, from the disconnect box I run a line to the outside unit, now my question would be , from the outside unit do I run a cable to the inside unit? Thank you .😊
No, separate circuit for the indoor unit. If you have any additional questions just call their tech support, they are fantastic and answered many questions I had.
Is your system going to pass inspection with it being so close to the breaker panel?
Already passed, it's pretty well outside code required clearances of the panel. That said, if I could've had the foresight to scoot the panel a foot or so to the left, I would have
Hi Mason , is the the wire 14-2 220 volt for the air handler?
That is the min. size wire, for the recommended 15A double pole breaker, correct
Is the forklift totally necessary? asking in earnest as I was hoping to install a unit like this in my attic which means getting it on the roof and into the attic... is that going to be a nightmare?
With 2 or 3 strong backs you can move it, probably weighs around 200 lbs
Mason, Can you please tell me the name of this coupler when you get to this time (14:23 frame of the video 14:23 / 22:05 ?
It comes with the precharged linesets. Adapts the precharged lineset to traditional flare connection
@@MasonDixonAcres Thank you, Mason! Seem I did not get that part delivered so I reached out to them for it.
Did you ever have an issue of your thermostat wires not receiving any power? I'm currently finishing install, but my system isn't energizing the wires.
Maybe check your connection and measure voltage at the board at the board terminal for the wire that's supposed to be constant 24V
What size crows feet did you use for each adapter on the torque?
Did you use regular thermostat cable???
Yep 18-8 for some extra conductors just in case
Can you say where you purchased from?
iwae.com!
I already have a boiler. Do I still need this heat pump? Is there a heat pump which only provides cold air?
Yes, it’s called air conditioning. The way an AC and a heat pump cool is exactly the same.
What is the name of the the architect software? Thanks
Chief Architect
@@MasonDixonAcres Thanks pal
Do you have to run a 230 to the inside unit as well?
Yes 15A double pole
Hey what's the name of the arichetctural layout software you used?
Chief Architect
@@MasonDixonAcres Thanks!
Assuming you have zero intention of installing heat strips in your indoor air handler - is it a bad idea to use the 240V for the outdoor unit and also use that to power the indoor unit air handler?
It’s recommended to put them on separate circuits
I've got mine on separate circuits
Did you get that unit with the electric heating coil, or are you just going to rely on the heat pump?
No electric heat backup.
@@MasonDixonAcres how many btu's is the heat pump?
@@bgd5339 I have the same system, its configurable to 24,000btu(2ton) or 36,000 btu (3ton) this is selectable by a dip switch
Buddy, did you use the 10 2 romex for thw air handler too?
That looks like 14/2, the white one.
What model is the Mr Cool heat pump with the air handler? Thanks!
It's a Gree Flex
@@noutilitybill The model is Universal Series
@@davidpeiffer2096 Yes MrCool calls it their universal series,but people in the know like myself call it by the manufacturers name a Gree Flex.I let people know this stuff so that they truly know what their buying because a lot of HVAC techs inform customers of buying something of higher quality hence much higher price and not even know its actually a chinese manufactured item.Gree is really good quailty,but I know this unit cost about 1000cad plus shipping.We are now seeing Mitsubishi and Trane units made by Gree and priced at Mitsubishi prices.Some are even cutting down the Chinese mini splits while unknowingly selling them for much higher prices,and customers do not even know this.Midea and Gree are basically the largest manufacturers of HVAC equipment in the world.I have even seen here on UA-cam HVAC tech cutting down a mini split while promoting another unit when both units were made by the same manufacturer.
Consumer diy ring terminals are not rated for that amperage! 27 amps for yellows. You should be using something like a Panduit uninsulated ring terminal. They are twice the thickness on the ring. Also you do not have to take off the panel to install the condensate drain. There is no pressure so you do not need to wrench it down..
Thanks! Yeah I probably should have used something more robust for that connection, but I don't think it'll be an issue. The nameplate lists a max 16A draw for the compressor and 1.5A for the fan. I'm also in the 2-ton setting so it should be pretty well within the limits of the cheap terminal. When I clean it out next year and they look melty I'll know for sure 😂
How long are the copper line sets
these are 15', they have 25 and 35s as well
What size breaker did u use for the out side unit
Your too pretty to ask those questions
OMG
GREAT
Is there fiberglass inside the air handler?
No it’s insulated with EPS foam on the interior
@@MasonDixonAcres thanks so much!!!!
anyone installing the mrcool no vac line sets have issues with connecters threads not engaging?
User error on the spray foam, been using pro cans for many years and have never had that issue. 😂
It was the gun, got the brand name gun for the stair project and it worked fine
Whats the ducting size required?
Ductwork video coming up soon! Completely depends on the size of the house, branches & lengths, turns, etc. to get it right, you most likely will need to hire a professional designer with access to the right software. Avoid the "rule of thumb" methods that most ductwork contractors use.
Me that never did any DYI, live in an apartment and have AC already installed: 👁️👄👁️
Where is your return for upstairs
Covered in a future video on the ductwork
@MasonDixonAcres Did you make a video on the ductwork yet? I would be interested in seeing it!
Great video on the install so far!
Foam gun is good. Use it all of the time. Just need to know how to use it. Don’t knock the gun man.
Nope it was the gun - in the next video I got the Great Stuff brand gun - it worked perfectly
美国人动手能力都这么强的吗？
I can’t really understand why you guys did baseboard heat on the bottom and a heat pump for the top when you could’ve used the Mr cool system for both floors. Seems like a waste of money.
Garage and living space can’t share air
@@MasonDixonAcres lol
You could’ve just done a small mini split for the garage area specifically and then use Mr. cool for the rest of your house. Just seems really complicated but to each their own.
Unless you are abosulutely sure you won't be doing anymore work around those plumbing on that wall, no matter what your local code enforcement said, I'd cover all those exposed wires up if I'm you. I go by NEC, not the local code enforcement. Those colored plastic cladding are not as tough as you think they are.
get a surge protector ..
Nice video! Get your hearing checked.
Great Stuff is really great stuff, but you CANNOT reuse a used can.
well, it's not that you CAN'T, but it never works as well as a fresh can does. and those "Pro Guns" are really garbage, and not necessary in most cases. but you really need to clean them out/off IMMEDIATELY after each use! that stuff is a hassle to remove when it's dry.
I actually learned on my stair video it was the gun that was the issue. It wasn't a Great Stuff brand.. got the right one and it worked as intended
i'll only buy japanese mini spits
This isn’t DIY
Well if you don't do a trade for a living and perform the work yourself then it is diy
By the way you voided the warranty by installing it yourself
I talked to the MrCool about the warranty, in this case with Mason, they confirmed that they still cover the warranty cover for the universal unit since the system made for DIY. I know in the manual said they won't.
Use the Metric system, and don't tell me your an American so I can do it. I'm American and use Metric so no excuses.
Great job
Safety glasses... Real men squint or wear safety contact lenses 😂
Ahh the ole safety squints
You hear that sound? That’s me driving away from your diy install when you cal a few years from now and it’s not working
Oh no not Tim
7 or 10 year warranty on these DIY units.. you probably wouldn't get the call anyways lol..
@@FJB2020 I doubt they’d be replacing their own compressor or anything actually skilled related themselves under warranty….
When having the pros install it almost triples the price, you could afford to install it once as practice and then send it to the dump when it doesn't work, and then do it again. And still save money. It's hard to justify the price if you have some diy capability.
@@kettch42 That is exactly right and it is not like Mr Cool is a no name brand.. They are made by Midea who is the worlds largest manufacturer of AC products. I have been installing them on mine, my friends and families homes for 8 years now and I have NEVER had an issue. All these 'pro's' just get mad that people can install these for a fraction of the cost.. Hell, I just bought another Mr Cool 18k Unit for $810 for my new garage. Might cost me another $90 in wire/disconnect to install and I bet I couldn't have one of these 'pro's' do it for under $4k...