Camera Modes for Time Lapse Videos - Canon EOS R5C Tip 25
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
- Shooting time lapses is not just a function for photo cameras or even photo mode. Canon's cinema cameras, including the R5C, have a host of recording modes that can be used to shoot time lapse videos.
Even better, unlike Canon's EOS consumer cameras, the cinema cameras can leverage all fo their recording features (for example, raw, XF-AVC, HEVC, and AVC compression) when shooting these time lapse videos as well.
In this video we'll look at the 3 recording modes that are most useful for time lapse work (slow and fast motion, interval, and frame modes) and how to set them up and make use of them.
This video does assume that you have some basic familiarity with what a time lapse recording is and how to go about choosing basic settings like interval times. If you're totally new to this, check out the time lapse deep dive playlist here: • Time Lapse Photography
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Chapters
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00:00 Intro
01:23 Differences between the R5C and R5 for time lapses
03:43 Shooting Time Lapse Footage on the R5C
04:18 Slow and Fast Motion
08:48 Interval Timer Mode
12:27 Frame Mode - Навчання та стиль
I sincerely applaud you. Thank you for being that Canon rep, I always wanted.
Not a stone unturned in any of your themes.
This is the most underrated canon channel.
🙏
Have seen 20% of this video and am now already very very satisfied. Thank you :)
Pure Gold! This video is the only one about the subject and level of details here in UA-cam and maybe the whole internet. Under and over cranking explanations and use commonly known as slow motion effect by TikTok filmmakers also super useful. Thanks
Thank you so much for the Timelapse info. I have been looking this kind of video for a while. I have ungraded from R5 to R5C and l have been only using Timelapse from photo mode which is longer process.
Super helpful video, thanks so much for putting this together! The attention to detail for each mode is fantastic.
Good information. Thanks.
Great detail. Thanks for your clarity and rich information.
Thanks for the video! Missed you on your break
You really know these cameras inside and out!
The way and detail canon ought to explain their products.thanks again.
Do you know how one would pressure canon enough to change the constant oversampling mode r5c has, even when not shooting. Like you explained in one of your videos, switching to media, saves a ton of battery
Many thanks for this video! Very helpful. For shooting a timelapse that is capturing a 7 hour painting process and nicely shows the different stages of the painting, which mode would you recommend? And will there be issues with battery life and memory card capacity to watch out for?
Re modes. If you want the end product with as little fuss as possible, then you'll want to shoot in the movie time lapse mode. The only thing that shooting photos on an interval gets you is the potential for a bit more dynamic range. That of course could be useful if you're shooting a sunset, or you're painting outside and are trying to capture a wider image than just the painting. But even then, the post processing for that is going to be significant.
Re storage: You shouldn't have a problem as long as you have a decently sized card. 7 hours at a 2 second interval is 12600 frames. That's the same as recording about 9 minutes of video at 24 FPS. So the file sizes will be similar. If you can shoot more than 10 minutes of video using ALL-I compression on your card, you should be able to do the full time lapse.
Re power: I'd probably want external power for this. I've never tried a full battery drain time lapse on my camera to see how long it went. Canon says the longest you can expect for a time lapse on a single fully charged battery is 6 hours 40 min with the screen off. Though there's a ton of factors that can affect that too.
The simplest way to power your camera externally is with a USB-PD battery pack, though it has to be able to provide at least 30W on the USB-PD port. I use an Anker 747 battery kit, which is likely overkill for what you're doing. You can also use a 30W or higher rated USB-PD AC adapter, if you have a MacBook or similar modern laptop that uses USB-C for charging, you can probably use the power supply that it came with if you don't want to buy one.
I have several videos on powering both the R5 and R5C using external batteries if you're interested in more information on that. ua-cam.com/video/rL_Wjawd_tA/v-deo.html is a good place to start.
Hope that helps.
@@PointsInFocus Amazing! Thank you so much, very helpful!
Nice video. What are the pros and cons of using video over photo? I'm assuming it's impossible to get the motion blur in movie mode only in photo mode? I've tried using the 1 frame per second and it creates a timelapse but any movement (like people walking) is all choppy and doesn't look all that nice.
The biggest hidden con to working in movie mode is going to be the limited lower bound for the shutter speed. The R5C's electronic shutter can't go slower than 0.5 seconds regardless of how long the interval actually is.
As to your point about motion blur. The biggest problem is that it's not usually feasible to shoot with what would be equivalent to a 180° shutter angle for most time lapse sequences. At least not without a lot of ND. If you're shooting a 1 sec interval time lapse, you need a 0.5s exposure to get the right motion blur. But if you're doing that in say reasonable daylight conditions you're going to need something like 6-9 stops of ND to accomplish that.
You can fix some of the blur problems in post, depending on what software you use, but it's not a perfect fix either.
cool thanks for your reply. Seems easier to just do it in photo mode?@@PointsInFocus
It certainly can be. I would say like most things it all comes down to what you need out of the camera and the exact conditions you're shooting in.
sorry i have a different question i have recently shifted from 5Dmarkiii to Canon R5C i did back to back interview testimonial videos for 8 hours is there a way to lock the video in camera or rate them while recording those videos. how does it work in R5 do you get option of marking? because if we can mark them we can avoid the retake shots
Only if you shoot in XF-AVC format. In that case you can apply scene marks, mark the clip with a check mark or OK mark. The OK mark will also prevent the camera from being able to delete the clip.
For MP4 and RAW files, unfortunately there's no way to mark or rate things in the camera. The best you can do is keep a log externally (say on your phone) of the clip ID and what it is. Unfortunately, if you're shooting in MP4, the camera won't display the next (when paused) or current (when recording) clip name like it will when in raw or XF-AVC formats.
Personally, I've ended up slating my files the Hollywood/old fashion way, so I can see what it was in the preview thumbnail and first couple of seconds of the video.
@@PointsInFocus by marking i mean selecting locking the videos as final selection. Is that possible in R5.
On the R5, yes, you can apply star labels and lock files regardless of what format they're shot in.
The R5's video mode isn't all that different form what you're use to on the 5D3. Obviously it has more features, and new recording formats, but the R5's OS traces it's design/roots back to the same OS that Canon used on their DSLRs.
That said, if you need unlimited recording, you only need 4K max resolution, and you're primarily using it for video, you might also want to consider the R6 mark II, at least in the interim until the R5 mk. 2 comes later this year.
I shot a wedding on Saturday and I noticed when I changed to slow and fast motion the exposure dropped by a stop. I'm going to look out for that next time but I switched the slow motion and pressed record. I was about to miss the bride and groom going in for a kiss.
There's two reasons that this will happen.
First, if you're shooting with shutter angles instead of speeds, the exposure time will change any time the frame rate changes. This is always true, regardless of whether you're using S&F or just changing the recording frame rate in normal.
The other potential problem point is that S&F motion imposes a minimum shutter speed equal to the frame time (e.g. 1/60th at 60 FPS). In normal recording modes, fi you using fractional second speeds (not angles) you can specify a speed that's longer than a single frame, and the camera will duplicate the frame to cover the exposure (e.g. at 60 FPS with a 1/30 exposure time, you'll get 30 FPS effectively, but the file will still have 60 FPS, just with each frame duplicated twice). At 120 FPS, the camera won't allow the shutter speed to go below 1/120th or 360°.
Either way, if your S&F frame rate was say 120 and your normal reacordings were targeted at 60 FPS, then you'd see a 1 stop change in exposure (assuming your shutter speeds were setup normally).
@@PointsInFocus Honestly you are a wizard! You knew exactly what I was doing and I didn't have to tell you. That is so cool and helpful. I'm getting better everyday but I really want to do this full time. It's really The only thing I want. No matter if I am shooting myself on UA-cam or shooting a bride at a wedding.
@@PointsInFocus thank you so much for all your help! I ended up spending a month editing that wedding and I was only paid for 2 days of editing. I have learned in this process that XF-AVC is causing a slowdown in premier. I know if I use proxies it should be much better but I did for this entire project. Every time I hit play or pause I am getting dropped frame indicators. Then when I am adding effects or using the sliders I was getting complete crashes and 90% RAM use. I started going crazy and building another computer for editing. A few weeks later the computer is built and I am still getting the same exact issue with XF AVC footage. I can edit 8K Canon raw footage with no problem at full resolution. For some reason when I'm using XFAVC my computer will not allow me to edit and process affects in a timely manner. I think by far it looks the best out of all the codecs I have used on R5c besides raw. I like shooting in 59.97 and I lose stabilization in RAW. I do have the Ninja V5 Plus so I can shoot in ProRes up to 30 FPS in 8k, but then the log footage doesn't look right. I haven't had time to fully experiment with changing the color profile on the atomos and the canon. However if I shoot in raw on the Canon in record and ProRes raw I get c log 2 and it looks great. However once again no stabilization. I am feeling a little defeated and down. I guess I should just use a different video codec like Mp4...
To be perfectly honest, it seems like you're picking video formats that are vastly over speced for the job. I don't know if this is because you're unsure of what you should choose and so you just pick the one with the hightest specs, or if you really do think you need that for some reason. But I should note, from a business perspective, you've got to be a lot smarter about what you're doing or you're going to keep giving people a lot of your time for free.
Unless you're shooting a Netflix original, you probably shouldn't be using XF-AVC or RAW. And you almost certainly don't need to shoot anything in 8K either (as an aside, even Netflix doesn't want you to shoot either 8K or raw footage on the R5C).
In any event, XF-AVC isn't a good choice for most people. It uses a very high bitrates, which means there's a lot for the CPU to deal with, and there is no hardware acceleration for 10-bit 422 chroma subsampled AVC in Premier pro (at least as of a just over a year ago, see www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/what-h-264-and-h-265-hardware-decoding-is-supported-in-premiere-pro-2120/).
On top of that, only Intel Arc GPUs and 11th Gen and newer CPUs support hardware decode of any 4:2:2 format (I'm not sure about Apple's chips, they may as well).
And of course, anything you're doing in 8K is going impose a significant increase for processing simply because of the size of each individual frame (at 32 MP each frame is higher resolution than many still cameras shoot).
Re stabilization. If you need to stabilize footage, I wouldn't recommend doing it digitally in camera at all unless it's the only option you have. Use an optically stabilized lens as a first step. Combine that with a wider grip setup for your camera (this reduces the small shakes that are picked up when you're holding just the camera). And if you're really moving around a lot, get a gimbal (I have a DJI RS3 pro, there's a review video coming in a couple of weeks). Finally, after that if you still need to stabilize things, do it in post and only on the footage that needs it.
All digital stabilization (whether it's in camera or in post) is just cropping and enlarging part of the frame. This throws away some of that resolution you're trying to maximize. In camera, you have no control over how much cropping is happening and what kind of up-scaling algorithm is used. In post, you at least have control over those features, as well as using much more computationally intense up-scaling algorithms (e..g. using the stabilize feature in Topaz Lab's Video AI will do a much better job than the simple upscale that's happening in the camera).
Re recording log footage on the Ninja V in prores/DNX/HEVC. To make a long story short, you need to manually set the video levels on those files to full (not auto or limited).
@@PointsInFocus thank you so much I ended up reading the Puget benchmark before I built this I-9 machine a couple weeks ago. I know I go way overboard with the video quality. I can still shoot in 4K and it looks great and is fully editable on either of my machines. Sometimes it's hard to get perspective on what you're doing unless it's pointed out to you. I really appreciate you taking the time to answer the comments all the time. Part of it comes from insecurity lack of professional work experience in video. Working three or for jobs at a time right now and hoping I can get clients and not have to work full-time as a truck driver. I always want to have the highest quality to make up for any shortcomings in experience. Family and friends try to book me for next to nothing or refuse because I don't have a studio. I still have so much to learn and I only wish I had more time to work on learning video and photo. As long as I am growing and learning everyday I consider myself lucky. Is there any other way I can help support your work or say thank you for the help and advice you offered me?