Subaru Throttle Body Plate Cleaning | Top End Cleaner | Engine Maintenance Kit | Injector Cleaner
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- Опубліковано 7 жов 2024
- How to Use Subaru's Engine Maintenance Kit, Subaru fuel injector cleaner, Subaru throttle plate cleaner, and subaru engine top end cleaner (Upper End Cleaner). I will show you generally how to clean your throttle body (throttle plate), and administer the top end cleaner.
I also give my personal recommendations in the video on decent alternative cleaners to use compared to Subaru's kit. This is performed on a 2015 Subaru Forester 4th Gen 2.5i non-turbo with a little over 106k miles, it was about time to do it based on the filth. How to will be very similar to other models like the Subaru Outback, Crosstrek, Impreza, or Legacy.
This is an excellent way to help reduce & clean out carbon, gum, or varnishes that build up over time on not only on internal fuel system components, but also the throttle body, induction system, valves, and combustion chambers. Subaru recommends using their fuel injector cleaner every 3000 miles, which is probably excessive, but performing this maintenance more often with keep your Subaru at it best drivability, and avoid rough running engines, hesitations, preignition, and similar scenarios.
/ @mtsubfly
Subaru's Engine Kit: www.subarupart...
Kit Part No: SOA868V9341
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Keep in mind this is an aid to performing the general process, you are responsible for undertaking this task and performing all steps correctly. Torques, fluid requirements (materials), processes and procedures could change by the manufacturer. So do your best to do it right! For the ultimate accuracy follow the latest revision of the Service Manual published by the manufacturer. If you are not mechanically inclined, it's not recommended you attempt this. You are responsible for your own actions.
Thanks to CHILLHOP!
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Have you guys noticed a difference after doing this?
I got the kit but haven't done it yet , I'm glad I stumbled on your video . As always super helpful. Btw what type of engine oil you using?
@@kostadinustavalkov1902 any update?
@Micah Garrison I did it myself few months back and it was super easy
@@kostadinustavalkov1902 but did you notice a difference after doing it
@Micah Garrison to be honest no I didn't, I think it wasn't that clogged and nextime I'll do it later not at 30k, my thought is probably my engine is port injection not direct and that's why
2 years later the UA-cam algorithm's help me find your video and might I say, thank you for making this video! It was pretty helpful!
I was throwing a P0120 CEL code that was very intermittent, but when it got to the point where I had the car stall out at a stoplight, I decided that it needed fixing. I did this, and after the smoke cleared from the Seafoam and manually clearing the CEL, It ran for a couple hours and no issues! Great video, thanks!
This made me realize I have some deferred maintenance to get to on my rig ! Excellent video !
This is another video which is very helpful. My 2014 Subaru Forester is almost 200000 miles. Thanks again.
Really appreciate your videos! They’re clear and concise without unnecessary editing. Funny enough, I also have my own bolt, washer, and nut where the broken/missing clip was.
I have a 2015 Limited 2.5. I choose to remove the TB to clean. Then replaced the $7 gasket. I then did the throttle body relearn sequence to ensure it was perfect. I would not use Seafoam as the chemicals in Seafoam are very different. BG has a product that uses the same agents. LuquidMoli has an oil flush product I am also using at 60k. After analyzing FB engine rebuilds due to oil consumption. These engines appear to get excessive carbon in the oil control rings; hopefully, the top and bottom clean on a regular interval will delay problems. I love your videos.
Thanks Rick!
Carbon on the control rings would make me wonder if lower quality oil is to blame, or blended oil specifically. Maybe full synthetics would help with this? I hope? Lol 😆
Also, I would think that could come from lack of cool down, or excessive city driving?
How did you the relaern buddy? i have a 2012 impreza with an FB20 engine
great video - but i'd second the suggestions to remove the throttle body (4 10-ml bolts and a plug - 5 minutes - and you can re-use the flange) or you'll never get it that clean. Someone had tried to do clean it in place on my 2011 outback and all they did was scratch up the surface carbon - probably the dealer. And any vacuum hose will do for the Top Engine Cleaner. Mine never tried to stall, perhaps because i had a helper rev the engine to 2000 while adding it (maybe i just blew it out the tailpipe :) - Don't know yet if it made a difference, but it was occasionally stalling after running great on a long trip and then maneuvering slowly into a parking spot. But it would start right up again. Hope this clears that up. Thanks -
Hey MT, I just did this on my 16 Forester (non-turbo) just now (P0172 fuel mixture too rich error). I watched MrSubaru1987's video as well as yours before doing it.
After having done it, I would suggest you remove the throttle body screws (10mm, torque is 5.9 ft-lbs or 8 Nm).
You don't have to remove the hoses on the throttle body, but if you put a rag under it, you have easier access to both sides of the throttle body plates when using the throttle plate cleaner (SOA868V9170).
I personally removed the air intake as well to clean the MAF filter and inside.
yea bro I totally hear ya. Everyone says I should have removed the throttle body, and I almost did. Except that you do not have to do that, and many folks do not feel comfortable removing it. I know Mr Suby has his video, and I thought I would show performing the task without removing it. I am completely satisfied with how the process went. But it's good for mechanically inclined individuals to know that the option exists to remove the whole body. Thanks for your comment! Appreciate the feedback! :-)
@@MTsubfly If I had to remove the throttle body rubber lines that would have been too much, but I verified the torque spec so easily and it seemed so easy to get a better cleaning result so I went for it. Any maintenance items you have planned for your Forester before the end of the year? Also, it may be better to not remove the throttle body because it says in the service manual to use a new gasket (the wire mesh thing at 3:29). I took out the gasket (16175AA430) and cleaned past the wire mesh thing and reinserted it.
Thanks buddy, great work, i want to unbolt the TB , how is the relearn procedure?
I kept getting some o2 sensor fault bank 1 lean and the 'professional mechanics' were way off kilter wanting to replace a mostly efficient o2 sensor. a kid at the car parts store was like try cleaning the mass airflow sensor on the subaru, and that got rid of the code. long story short, mechanics shops are the new banking system, they will hold all of your money.
Thanks, a well done video. I do have a caution for everybody, having bought the kit from my local dealer's online sales, and picked it up there - on receipt the Top Engine Cleaner Can had very obviously been leaking inside the cardboard box, which was dark-stained, and the can had only 1/3 of its contests still there. I only discovered this when I brought it home, so I immediately brought just that can back to the dealer parts counter, to find that they don't stock the cleaner alone and would have to order the whole kit and they need the injector cleaner and throttle plate cleaner back too. I negotiated agreement to wait until the new Top Engine can comes; then I'll bring back the Injector and Throttle stuff, instead of making 3 trips there. Still waiting to hear it's in. A nuisance.
Got kit for about $17 but no leaks here. Sorry to hear that. I’m going to a Subi guy I know instead of the stealership to save some money on top engine cleaner.
I never knew about this trio of products from Subaru. Thanks for a great video!
Thanks John! I think they are pretty good products for a decent price. There are comparable products for sure. Thanks for the kind words! Cheers!
The plastic tab that you replaced with the bolt......is probably sitting in the cover that you remove to do the front diff. gear oil change. At least that's where I found mine. I'm getting ready to clean my '14 throttle body @66k and was hoping someone did a video. Great video! I'll be waiting for new content.
Lol! I'll check!
Just bought this kit and was trying to figure out how to use it. Great video. Thank you! Now off to get my Impreza running smoothly again :)
This is awesome man. Thank you. About to do mine this weekend
@MT i cannot find the kit from my area though. Any other links?
Throttle is very easy to take off and it's a good idea to get a new gasket for it which replaces that screen because that gets super dirty and caked up too.
appreciate the intro this is going to make it easy, some guys try to take off/apart the whole throttle body housing I like how you didnt and got a good swiveled POV to brush at it attached will try soon need to get some vinyl tubing and clamp
My understanding is, the back of the throttle plate being dirty doesn't bear any results on performance. It's the edge of the throttle plate, and where it makes contact with the throat of the throttle body, that makes all the difference between being clean or having *hard* deposits, and only effects idle and very low throttle settings.
Not true, it also cause runaway revving when putting in the clutch on manual 2010 foresters, I recently found out after worrying the clutch was screwed. But nope, manually removed and cleaned throttle body then did idle relearn and the clutch revving issues completely subsided. Subaru's are a different beast as I've been finding out.
You are correct about the edges being the main culprit, however if your cleaning edges it's just as easy to clean the whole plate otherwise it will just come back faster.
Great video MT. Thank and much love for sharing all your videos. Because of your wonderful kind effort, I too learn how to do my own maintenance on my 2015 Subaru Forester. Mucha Gracias!
Great video, I have about 36,000 miles on mine so not yet, but great videos and keep them up. There's about a million billion things to do to these cars, so fun. What year is yours mines a 2.5 NA 2011.
2015. You might consider doing this at 50k miles, not a big deal, but maintenance is all about prevention.
thanks for your good video that you share with us , i'll buy this products to clean my subaru legacy 2003 GT. regards from Miami Beach
I really appreciate these videos. I am terrified of messing with my CVT though. Would you trust the "stealership"?
Lol, I cant fully trust them. But realize if you take it to a dealer it costs more, and they do things as fast as they can...always...
CVT on my 2010 outback began failing after 150k miles. Dealership where the car was purchased certified pre-owned about a year and a half prior wanted a little over $5k to replace it and the torque converter. A local transmission shop did it for about half the price.
For changing the cvt fluid you have to other option, only dealerships have the machine for reprogramming after the change
@@kostadinustavalkov1902 What do you mean by "reprogramming"? Drain the fluid, add fluid, check fluid temp and use the top-off process. There is no programming that I have heard of.
@@ddb1143 that's what I been told, even my mechanic told me he can't do it coz he doesn't have the machine. I'm guessing the dealership didn't do drain and fill only coz it's only 5 qts that way and they charged me for 13 which means they took out all the fluid including what's in the torgue converter ,that's supposed to be how much is in the whole system
Thanks for sharing 👍🏼 very helpful
Awesome Informative To-The-Point video, THX 🙏
Great video and advices! Came across it because my forester 2014 have rough idle and problem during acceleration between 1500 and 2000 rpm, the dealer does not find any problem though. Do you have any extra advice about a problem like this? Thanks
Do you have to change your oil a few days later after doing this treatment?
Great video !! Apparently we don’t get it in Canada. So weird 😢
I found un-bolting the throttle body is way easier. Also did the idle re-learn procedure.
Totally a great option for folks looking for a deeper clean/project. I could be done in 6-7 minutes with a rag a brush & the cleaner without removing the whole throttle body.
When removing, did you then have to replace gasket?
What is the idle relearn procedure?
@@The_Absurdistt Check out Mr Subaru's videos for the idle relearn anytime you clean the throttle body.
Thanks this was a very useful video. Thumbs up
Great video man! Still original cvt with those tires? How much did they reduce mpg? I have a ‘16 w/76K . Thanks
Auto-play led me here while I was in another tab, but I am glad to have rediscovered your videos, MT :) will plan on doing this and fuel filter soon.
Glad to have helped! You can do this!
@@MTsubfly I skimmed through the fuel filter video and checked prices on the "pricy gasket" and fuel filter and it was ~$200.
As far as this throttle body plate service goes, the link in your description says you need another tool, but that tool has been discontinued apparently.
www.subarupartsforyou.com/oem-parts/subaru-engine-maintenance-kit-soa868v9341
"****Application requires SOA868V9431 NOT INCLUDED
Top Engine Cleaner Tool"
I will ask about it (if there is a newer tool with different item #) when I visit my parts dealership today or tomorrow. I'm at 35,500ish miles right now so I might wait on the fuel filter since I know you said Subaru says 72k miles, and you probably won't have an issue until 100k miles.
My 2016 Forester (non-turbo) is 4 years 9 months old, but I am always looking for services I can DIY. I finished up a coolant drain and flush yesterday! If you're interested, I posted pictures and everything.
www.subaruforester.org/threads/2016-observations-on-my-first-coolant-drain-and-fill.807385/page-2#post-7689449
P.S. I love the "you can do this" outro on any video on the seejanedrill UA-cam channel! ua-cam.com/users/seejanedrill
Do you have plans for future Forester maintenance videos? Always looking forward to more, but I also realize they take a lot of time and work (took a lot of time taking photos for coolant change so I assume it takes more work for videos)
@@jkxss great! Thanks for the info. The special tool is not needed for the top end cleaning kit. Watch the video and you will see all you need is a piece of generic tubing. This is a very easy process. Yes there is so much that can be done DIY. I hope to help people accomplish that.
@@jkxss I'm considering doing the coolant replacement video as I approach 120k miles on the forester. I have filmed other footage for less popular maintenance items such as oil & filter change, and cabin air filter replacement, and air filter. Not sure if its worth the time to edit those videos?
@@MTsubfly I was considering doing one long video for the coolant replacement, but when I actually did it, it seemed like pictures would be better since a lot of it is just waiting. Photo album of coolant change is here: imgur.com/a/BapZ8fB
You remove the front undercarriage tray (four total 12-mm hex bolts, six total body clips in tire wells) then remove the coolant drain bolt (not difficult to remove unlike the front differential fill plug lol). I actually removed the coolant drain bolt with one hand while recording ua-cam.com/video/4jo_h5x2uyY/v-deo.html.
Let coolant drain (optional: lift rear of car up more than front to get more coolant out), (another optional: add more new super blue coolant to flush more of the "old coolant" out, then let it drain again.
Clean out the coolant reservoir (apparently this can be removed without removing the actual radiator fan lol ua-cam.com/video/m-wIWXHzbo4/v-deo.html)
Fill radiator up with coolant (~1.5 gallons for me even though FSM says capacity is 2 gallons), then do the procedures (MAY NOT BE EXACT, CHECK PHOTO ALBUM FOR FSM PROCEDURE - run engine at 3k rpm 5-6 times, turn off car, repeat, add coolant, run engine at 3k rpm, turn off engine, set temperature to max heat and lowest fan setting and run).
Probably not worth time for video on oil and oil filter change (photo of 17 mm oil drain bolt location is good enough). I think the only tip would be to drive the car up to temp (I personally do ~150 degrees F - can tell in the small screen below front windshield if it is in your 3-gauge info thing). Park it, drain oil, then add oil and do the oil filter, replace with new oil drain bolt crush washer, and torque the bolt to 41.7 N-m or 30.8 ft-lbs.
Tip for refilling oil I would explicitly mention would be to do it on level ground and start checking dipstick levels around the 4.5 US quart amount so you don't overfill.
Space between two dipstick holes (marked L and F) is 1.1 US qt or 1.0 L
FSM engine oil replacement: prnt.sc/10nv319 and prnt.sc/10nv3d5
FSM engine oil filter: prnt.sc/10nv5at
FSM engine oil specs: prnt.sc/10nv43b (non-turbo and beginning of turbo) and prnt.sc/10nv4mt (turbo)
Engine air filter and cabin air filter are so easy to do that it probably doesn't require editing and you can probably do both in one video within a minute assuming you have someone to hold the camera for you (or tripod mount).
FSM screenshot of cabin air filter: prnt.sc/10nv0f8
FSM screenshot of engine air filter removal: prnt.sc/10nv6h3
Thanks for the video. Would this be something that cleaned the intake valves on my direct injected Boxer engine as well?
Thank you! Yes using the top end cleaner will help clean the valves a bit!
I read that the tool atomizes the cleaner. That it’s not good to use just a regular hose. Thanks
Thanks for making these videos man. What does the hose that you put the engine cleaner in normally do?
you should let it sit after the 2nd application.
first to loosen crap up, 2nd to deep clean, 3rd to rinse
I do a Italian tune up, I fill the fuel tank, add fuel injector cleaner to fuel, and go for a long drive at 70mph, this will burn the carbon from the inside of the engine , and you will notice better performance and fuel consumption. Have fun.
** Notice **
Subaru is no longer selling this kit. The new kit is PN# TPSFUEL 3 Part Fuel Kit S94004 for $71.79 !!!
The kit is no longer Subaru branded and contains the following:
Bardahl Pro Fast Clean Fuel System Cleaner - pn# 94040 (11 fl oz)
Bardahl Pro Air Intake Cleaner - pn# 93076 (6 fl oz)
Bardahl Pro F-I-A-I-C Fuel Induction Air Intake Cleaner - pn# 94060 (11 fl oz)
The Louisville, KY dealership offered this Fuel Induction (Carbon) Cleaning service for $199 to be performed / recommended every 30,000 miles
The local dealers have a ton of these kits, still available at a lot online retailers, but there's capable alternatives to use that are easily available anyway. I've heard they were discontinuing this product years ago, but haven't seen it dissappear, still available so i dont know about that... The dealer can do a much deeper cleaning on the fuel system, im not familiar with it, but that may be what they are charging that much for. Cheers!
@@MTsubfly I just went to local dealer. They didnt have the kit, but did have 2 of the 3 products separately (didnt have throttle body cleaner. I just picked up CRC throttle body cleaner)
@@nappyjim that stuff works great too! Plus cheaper!
Excellent Video.
Thank you for sharing
May you use UA-cam chapters please
So we can share each chapter
Great video sir, thank you
How many miles did the engine have on it when you did this? Nvm, found 106k
My 2016 Forester is still under 50K miles. Should I be doing this too?
By the way, I also bought the AT tires based on your previous video. I did take a slight cut in fuel economy, but off-roading in the desert has been so much fun.
Its not a major thing. BUT you might do it around 50k miles as a preventative. It will help maintain the responsiveness of your engine.
@@isaacdunn6589 Thanks! Yea I too took a very minor hit in mpgs. Personally I'm very impressed with the tires on gravel/dirt roads. Good to hear! Thanks for watching!
I have same 2015 Forester with 233K miles. Recently my mechanic had to repair the Torque Converter when a solenoid went bad.
I am wondering about mpg as mine has gone from 30+ average down into mid or low 20's. Any ideas for unusual solutions? And at $5/gallon need to get most out of a gallon.
I hear ya, focus on the basics first. Air supply, fuel supply,and spark...a typical tune up. Then expand to look at other parts like transmission.
Did you have to do an idle relearn procedure
Please make a coolant replacement for your subaru.
Thanks! It's on my to do list!
Is that vacum hose the same one that connects the PCV valve?
Is the vinyl hose definitely 3/8ths??
Does this really help at all? Subaru has a new TSB with a similar cleaning but is more complicated and uses Subaru SSM. Thanks
I think it's good to do, just not as often as they say.
Just bought this kit after watching. Still have a misfire after replacing spark plugs so I'm cleaning everything
Look into the spark plug wiring, and coil packs if your year has them. It might be getting fuel but not getting spark.
So was it a 3/8” inn diam hose to fit?
Are you firmilar with 2006 tribeca
Did you get a CEL code? I got a P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected. I cleared it and engine seems to run fine, but just wondering if you got any code after doing this?
No code for me!
Hi bro I am from Middle East can you advice me wich car is more realizable Subaru Crosstrek 2021 or Subaru Forster 2020 becouse i need to choose between the price is same her
The same...they use the same engine and platform.
For the top engine treatment, Does it matter if you disconnect the vacuum hose from on top of the intake manifold rather than “down below” and attach the vinyl tube to the male end on top of the intake manifold?
The turbo engines for the Ascent/Outback/WRX don't have that small hose. Do you know where we should use that cleaner?
Is that kit good for a 2015 WRX?
Yes it can service a FA20
For the top engine cleaner, where is the vacuum line on a FA20DIT WRX? Does it go into the MAP sensor hole?
Right the turbo motors don't has that small breather. I'm curious myself. Did you ever find out how?
Do you know a top hose for the top cleaner on the 2020+ Ascent/Legacy/Outback/WRX motors? I only see a big hose and after doing it, my check engine light came on.
Did you figure out the reason for the check engine light? What did you do to fix it?
The back of the butterfly is not really the cause of problems....the issue is where the butterfly makes contact with the throttle body..if there is carbon there the butterfly will not close and seal properly...There is a hose kit available with an on / off valve. Ever thought of cleaning your engine?..its filthy!
Where can you find this kit without paying outrageous shipping or going to a dealer? The nearest dealer from me is 3 hours away. I may just end up going with other brands. Thanks
Yea use other over the counter chemicals. I bought mine from oregon city subaru, $16, shipped to me. Depend where you look, but you might give them a call, maybe shipping isn't that bad?
Inflation has pushed the price of this kit to $26
36
$16 bucks for 3 products, holy shit makes me want to live in the USA. These 3 products would probably cost $65 here in overpriced Shitsville we call Australia
E.G.R fail
I tried to clean my throttle like the way you did with aftermarket throttle body cleaner. I pushed the flap open and sprayed and cleaned with cloth. Then put everything back, the car just jerked crazily and wouldn't start. I had to get the car towed to the dealer to get it fixed. They told me that there's piece of cloth in there. I doubt it. I was really careful and checked my cloth neatly without any broken pieces. I just paid the 250 without knowing exactly what it was. Did I trick the computer by doing it that? I'm not sure. I appreciate it if anybody can share their experience and knowledge.
Mine sounded like the engine was knocking so I quickly turned off the car. Let it sit for a bit then turned it back on but there was the check engine light on. I heard if it reads that it runs too rich or lean it will trigger the check engine light then you need the OBD2 tool to reset it. Mine is coming in soon so hope I can just reset it. At least it still drives smoothly.
Work for wrx 2017???
I have a WRX 2016, did you try it and did it work for you?
@PCProphecy yes but make sure you change oil after because your oil gonna be scrap
@rcdb4160 How does the oil get affected by doing this maintenance?
@PCProphecy don't know but after my oil turn black!!!