I would look into a microsquirt/megasquirt myself, then you can control your fuel/timing and most likely get away with pump/race or e85 for fuel. Love the drag rail series!
To me the dragster is probably most exciting thing you guys have done in quite a while. I'm sitting on the edge of my seat to see the next installment of what's going on with the dragster. Really good stuff!!👍
If you guys would like to check iv called every issue before you've had it. You need brass floats (easy to make). When Charles moved the wastegate he took all the preload out hence the low boost they all come at 15 psi more or less. If you take your other turbo and measure the mount to the flapper it's longer than this one. You can also very easily check pop off pressure with a leak down tester or air pressure regulator like for painting and a gauge. It should crack at 13 fully open by 15.5. that tiny hole Ike drilled won't change boost on that tiny turbo a 3way t with one open to atmosphere will give you about 18-19psi unhooked it will get to 20-22psi. I add a nipple to the bottom for actual control. Both hooked up will make 28-30 psi and just the bottom I get about 50psi before the wastegate blows itself open. For more you need a bigger turbine housing and the compressor wheel would do good to have the biggest exduser you can fit so it's not trying to melt itself. Once you get it running okay and get the boost up to launch use the foot brake some but be mindful your heating the clutch and belt. This will give you some boost off the line. Your catch can should really vent to the air filter if you can help it. Makes the crankcase pressure way lower helps rings seal make more power and not leak so much. I personally use e85 for all of the reasons methanol is a pain. Meth is better yes but not by enough to justify it to me and I'm now compound and boost is safely past 60psi just chill the fuel with dry ice and youl be fine on intake temps. I think your ignition is fine for your goals tbh but I'd invest in a real carb. I'm in Wilmington if you guys would like some parts I mights have a carb that would work for you but I'd go hsr all day on this. As for jetting if you bring the whole thing I have every size you could need and between me and my dad were some of the best motorcycle carb guys around so some quick jetting wouldn't be hard maybe an hr. Now one thing I am very concerned about is ignition timing control.. do you have any? Even a simple cdi you set a curve to would be better than nothing.
Guys consider doing a collab with the boostedboiz and put the drag rail on a fueltech ecu and convert it to efi. They did the same on a lifan 200cc shopping go kart and now it does wheelies lol
Boosted Boiz just converted their turbo shopping cart to a FuelTech and had great success setting it up, strongly suggest you guys convert this to EFI as well even if it's not FuelTech (they had some other EFI controller previously)
For future reference, instead of drilling holes in the vacuum line which could potentially rip open larger and let the boost run away, add a vacuum "T" to the line. You can experiment with "T" and "Y" fittings and if you wanted a bit of adjustability in between you can add a line to the vent part of the "T" with a little fuel shutoff to dial it in. Just a suggestion I havent seen in the comments. The main thing is you don't want that boost line to the wastegate to fail or it will just go kill mode and send all the horse-torques to it.
@@jdshanahan4215 So why not just put a T in it with a ball valve threaded into it? I know that's the caveman way of doing it but all we are really going here is controlled boost leak. A couple of passes and you'd have that valve where you want it.
I suggest getting a standalone controller for your ignition, this will allow u to set an rpm limit. This shouldn’t hurt your boost because your air is controlled by the carburetor and as long as that is wide open the turbo will try to build boost so you may be hitting limiter but you’ll still hold boost
Would also allow them to have a timing curve instead of the static timing their flywheel key is at. Probably pick up a measurable amount of power, or at least require less boost
Hey I luv everything yal do ..from work n on everything yal can to the editing an camera work ..yal kill it everyday ..I have you tube channel also I would love to come an interview u ..an Ride an an fixn stuff .. let's go
When you run alky, you need a good carb that will take the corrosive alky and nitro without dissolving. All cheap China carbs are made of pot metal, not actual aluminum, so they will not deal with alky. Time for a Lectron flat slide instead of cheap trash. Also, you never add nitro without having it dialed in before you use it. You still shouldn’t be running nitro because you haven’t figured out what you are doing yet. And, when you aren’t running nitro, you can run M5, which has oils and additives to keep it from being corrosive. Once you get it dialed in on M5, then you start adding small amounts of nitro and tuning it as you go.
Efi would be a neat adventure on that thing. Check out the boostedbois recent video about their shopping cart that has a lifan engine with a turbo and efi on it, that setup on the rail would be epic.
I don't know if you already have one but this project seems like it would benefit greatly from an AFR gauge. Would take a lot of the guess work out and allow you guys to really dial in the tuning
Guys, try a small holley two barrel. I know it may sound a bit large, but a 350 two barrel may be your ticket. especially since you are drawing through. give you much better fuel control and more reserve in the bowl. and a pump shot for launch.
Another idea. Should use a megaquirt ECU . Well a microsquirt and single injector. You'd get so much further and have control. A launch co troll etc would all be beneficial too
Boosted Bois put a Fuel Tech on there shopping cart, i thought that would be the best, It would have a 2 step to build boost, and they could add a dependent wastegate
@@lylehausser I utilize fueltech and have for years. It was nice to see them switch a long time ago. The microsquirt is for this type of setup. (low cylinder count and retrofit setups or boosted bike application.). So figured it be a good idea
The drag rail needs efi. We have the technology we just need to convince them its what they need. The carb is cool but efi is just the way direct or port its just a much easier way to do what they are trying to do!
Some ideas for the dragster 1. Limit the amount of runtime between oil changes(if your running nitro its murder on oil). 2. If there is one available, install a hotter ignition source (capacitor discharge?) 3. Install an air-fuel percentage gauge and video its readouts to include where the car is on the track. 4. Increase air intake capacity by using an aftermarket two barrel carburetor equipped for methanol(300 or 500cfm Holley?) or using one of the smaller turbochargers per cylinder with a carburetor on each.
Or maybe efi? Turbos and carbs seem pretty archaic. It's bad when there a certain UA-cam shopping cart that's on motec going faster then a drag rail. 😂
@@skeetermccleeter efi would probably be ideal, but the price is a killer. Maybe they could do like cut out metal Keychains in the shape of a turbo and sell em to buy a efi kit.
This is by far the most exciting and fascinating build you guys have done- not that others were dull by any means- but man this has had me on the edge of my seat watching you guys tryna blow this thing up! LOVE IT!
PSI isn't a sign of boost. It's a sign of restriction. It's not uncommon to have PSI levels drop on bigger turbos. What you're looking for is more airflow turning into more power, and that's really hard to tell outside of a dyno. I'm probably describing it wrong, but check into it.
Hey guys I just want you to know that you inspired my first mini bike build. I have a Coleman mini bike that I put a predator 420 in. I just started it today and its spitting 5 inch flames on idle. I think it might be rich lol. I had to buy my first welder for the project and even managed to get a TS125 gas tank on the bike. I only have this epic fire breathing big block because of you guys. I thank you sincerely. BTW I'm 16 idk if that matters but I feel like it adds to it.
A belly pan under the engine could help catch any lost oil if you need it. I knew that Methanol would be an issue but never did I think this fast. Alcohol and Methanol "Eat Parts". Anything plastic/aluminum or rubber is at risk as far as I know. You got this.
The nitro is worse than the methanol. And they shouldn’t even have touched the nitro until they have it dialed in on straight methanol. It’s just like trying to run nitrous with a bad tune, bad stuff is gonna happen. Then add in the fact that they are running cheap Chinese carbs that aren’t even made from actual aluminum, just cheap pot metal, they have set themselves up for failure. They need to ditch the nitro methanol and go with M5. It’s methanol with 5% corrosion inhibitors and top end lube. Once they get dialed in on that, then start adding nitro in small percentages. I really don’t think this engine will handle much more than 20ish percent nitro when it’s tuned right because the stuff is violent. Right now, running the nitro is just making it even harder for them to get right. It’s like they looked up some info on running nitro, then decided that they would do everything you are told not to do. And there is a huge no-no that I’m surprised they weren’t banned from the track for, or even arrested for. Using a fuel pump that isn’t rated for nitro is not just dangerous, it’s a crime. It’s an actual ATF law because of threat of explosion. By using nitro in a pump that wasn’t rated for it, they created an illegal explosive device. Just connecting a fuel pump not rated for nitro to a tank that has ever contained nitro is a felony. John Force tells a story about one of his crew members getting 25 years in a federal pen just for trying to use one to transfer fuel from a drum to a gas can. He never got a battery on it before he was stopped, but he still got 25 years.
Guys, something to bare in mind. Methanol Eats normal rubber. Any rubber parts of that fuel system will need replacing regularly. Kalrez rubber is a good substitute material. It's expensive but worth it in the long run as it lasts a lot longer.
They could solder in a msd chip inline with a thumb switch to switch from the chipped to unchipped side to interrupt the signal side of the coil that's how we did it on H.e.i distributors when we had to run stock ignition system in claimer class racing run it on the chip the whole race flip it off on the last couple laps and give it hell to the finish
"Boost-control" bleed valves are dirt cheap and would make adjusting boost much easier, while avoiding a vacuum leak when off boost. You can also get knock-off OEM VAG boost control solenoid valves (for like Audi tt and Volkswagen 1.8t engines) for real cheap as well (like 15 bucks on Amazon). Wire it up to a button and you will be able to manually get extra boost if you want, or help build boost before launch by bypassing the wastegate completely.
hmmm i heard fueltech makes some pretty nifty dashes with integrated ECU so all youd have to do would be to slap 2 injectors on the intake and have EFI, o2 sensor on the exhaust and you got yourself some pretty nice tunable stuff that can do everything just like a big car would :)
Have you guys measured the emulsion tube diameter for the meth carb setup? The giant main may not be fully giving ya what you think if the emulsion tube is the new restriction. Nothing to do with the sputtering issues, but could potentially allow better AF mix with a smaller main+larger emulsion tube while giving the same volume of fuel.
If you want more boost on the fly, just take different sized vacuum T fittings and add one into the waste gate line. The hole Ike made isn't near big enough to do anything. You could also put washers on the wastegate linkage. Id just order a 15 dollar manual boost controller and call it a day. Also, I think you're having a fueling issue. Before you change the electrical, dial back the jet some and get your boost back to that 8lbs. Great video, thanks for the entertainment. ((Edit)) I commented to early ...lol That will definitely cause a fueling issue.
I'll never forget the $50 go kart videos and how I found you guys. So glad to see you're still great friends, and that you have over a million subscribers now, keep being you 🙏🙏
You guys need a LECTRON carb setup for the fuel you are running, It will solve your fueling problems. You will also need a fuel pump designed for E85 and fuel line for E85 . Love watching your channel and looking forward to the next video .
Hey guys, your turbo waste gate has an adjustable rod! No need to bend nothing. All you need to do is wind the Rod in a few turns to increase the waste gate spring pressure, equals more boost.
For fuel injection maybe look into Mega Squirt. Apparently those can do just about anything that you want them to. Possibly even set up a launch rpm not to mention data logging.
John, if you haven’t yet, look into a Speeduino. It is an Arduino-based stand alone ECU that is very simple and cheap to use. It uses TunerStudio for tuning and only requires a few basic sensors to run. If you can adapt a throttle body with port injection it could solve a lot of your carburetor woes. Methanol is a great fuel but will absolutely eat any rubber that isn’t made specifically for it. Love the build!
I'm loving this drag saga more and more for every video. Keep on working on it! Do you have any specific goals you want to reach with this build before moving on?
@@CarsandCameras hey guys you all are doing a great job getting it running very good...iv been drag racing for over 35 years cars.. motorcycles and 4wheelers iv got trophy for all the classes just wanted you to know iv done it along time and I can give you very good advice...if you get the 60 foot time down to around a 1.50 to 1.70 anywhere in that range and your little rail will be in the low 7.0s easy you have got the MPH for it..the MPH being real high like that shows that it's making alot of HP..iv left a couple of messages on a few of your other videos and I keep getting a message to text you on telegram and I don't think that it's you or Issac... someone is trying to hack your members for money...
I hope you get it sorted, I love seeing this drag rail. Years ago when I raced carts, we ran methanol in some of of them. We would drain the tank and run pump gas through it at for a while at the end of the night to combat issues like this. The methanol will cause all kinds of problems if you leave it in there BUT that wouldn't stop it from happening only prolong the damage. It was just a part of racing, you learned to keep spare pumps, diaphragms, hoses and tubing around and change the oil between every heat if allowed. Back than, pump gas was actually gasoline, not the junk in the pump today and I believe they make better parts now days that will hold up a little better. Good luck fellas, I hope to see more.
Hey brother man. You gotta heat them tires UP IN THE WATERBOX! The reving right off the bat, is your tires breaking loose with wheel spin. I know that you guys have already heard the phrase, " SPINNING AIN'T WINNING. " Every second you spin, you're loosing seconds off of your ET's, 60 foot time, and your 120 foot time. Ya'll fellows keep up the awesome work and, don't worry, Ya'll gonna get to them mid 6's.
Love watching you guys learn all the basics with your dragster!! Great video for the people that understand what's happening! Fresh reminder off the pain. You we're so close!!
2x engines, 1 big turbo. Fits on the rails. Use existing intake and fork into two. Use a nonelectronic Weber 2bbl carb, like off a Pinto. Those flow very well.
If you go efi, use an mt05 Delphi ecm. It's common on several motorcycles and Kohler engines. It can be tuned with HUD ECU hacker (free software). Very universal and can be found second hand for a good price.
Remember when you made that Turbo Trike a few years back? And we all agreed that Carburettor turbo setups suck? Bring on the Turbo Methanol Fuel Injection. Thank you for entertaining and sharing.
I believe Lectron carbs are made to withstand m/ethanol not 100% sure on that though. Despite likely costing more than the build up to this point still think it'd be worth at least maybe slowly acquiring stuff for EFI in the future like Fueltech ECU, injectors, pump, FPR, fuel line, filter(s), etc. Still excited to see what you can do with the carb setup when it's all lined out though! 🤘
Take a good timing light hooked up, and a rubber band around the trigger, with you during the pass, and keep an eye on it if you suspect an ignition problem. You'll see skips in the light that correspond with the misses and pops if the ignition is to blame. If you see a constant, smooth light, then it isnt the ignition. I used to do this with high-performance 2-Stroke outboard motors to diagnose ignition system issues when they were running rough, and it works like a charm to determine if it's an ignition or fuel related issue.
For Fuel Injection System: Suzuki SV650 and SV1000 run fuel injection from 2003 onward. They are V Twin motors and really good bikes 🤙 as far as I know you can get after market computers to tune them too. As your running turbo probably need the system from the 1000 🤷. Awesome work and video as usual!
The methanol is terribly caustic. When we raced Briggs engines in go karts, we drained everything after the night or pump and carb would be ruined. We pulled head and flushed cylinder wall to prevent damage usually with WD-40. A lot of work but made the difference between winning or losing. A fun series to watch, keep going.
I'll tell you what, I've had a shit week topped off with an absolute shit day, and when I saw this come across my notifications I excitedly added it to my watch later que knowing that watching grown men make ridiculous go karts was sure to brighten my spirits. Keep it up guys ❤️
Go all out & get an EBC (Electronic Boost Controller)! Data Logging, Fully adjustable & helps get earlier boost than "adjust a leak" manual valve method. Combined with a multi-spring tuneable waste-gate Diaphragm Housing Assembly. One and Done! Great effort & video!
I have 4 of them same wheel Dollies. They work good and are varry reliable. Saved a few people on the side of the road with them. One had a broken ball joint so I put one under his front tire and we got it off the road to a safe spot.
You should maybe get in touch touch with Kyle from the boosted Boyz he just swapped his small little go cart to efi and even put a fuel tech 550 to control it all and it worked out great for him. Just a thought maybe they can help with getting the parts you might need.
the gt15 waste gate pressure is 13 psi, when you poked holes in the gate tube you made a boost leak, keep in mind you want boost and backpressure balanced, also try to build boost before you leave, i love the videos tho!
so glad you guys put the spotlight back on this thing, its been a great series so far and i cant wait for it to finally take off like a rocket down the strip.
Highly recommend lectron carbs if you want power and to run alcohol or methanol. Also change any rubber fuel lines to a PTFE hose. Methanol eats rubber and most plastics.
You need a super cheap adjustable T for fish-tank air bubbler pipe for the waste gate relief. Used it on my MG Metro turbo and set to 0.2mm air leak. Dont need much or youll get detonation and then youll need water mist injection to stop it melting stuff.
"99 jet😬 that's almost 1/8th of an inch!" -Sam- the fellas will know what this quote is from. hell yeah brother if that helps out. Sorry I couldn't resist quoting Sam when he said a 99 jet. Glad to see the drag rail going through all this testing trying to really bring out its best you guys will eventually get to hang of it I think it might be time for a delorto something from like a air-cooled Volkswagen beetle or even a dual barrel Weber
OK, I grew up (60's & 70's) putting bailing wire on every part of my 327 that should have had a bolt so I will reference BC Driven to say fix the vac line you poked holes in. Ungauged leaking vac lines will warp valves in the right setting so his, her, or its (no pun intended) suggestion is a good one. That can come back to haunt you in the near future. Great job finding the problem. Damn cool mechanix.
Look into Speeduino for your ECU, and look into GSXR750 throttle bodies for an ITB setup. You might also want a blow-off valve, in which case I recommend a Turbosmart RFL for sound and price. If you don't want to go through the process of programming and wiring up the Speeduino, maybe check out a Microsquirt as those are made for motorcycles and other smaller engine applications, I think. But much more expensive compared to the Speeduino, which is homebrew and based on an Arduino board. The reason I rec the GSXR750 TBs is due to displacement vs RPM. In the end you have a little less than the same displacement, but a little more than half the RPM, which should balance out in the middle, so yeah. Kinda like how you can use a G25-660 on a K24 and a Busa and achieve similar proportional results because while the Busa is about half the displacement, it also revs about twice as high.
Don't forget the more boost you run the higher the valve spring pressure needs to be. When you take the surface area of the back side of the valve and calculate the additional force applied by boost pressure the factory valve springs may not be able to control the valves motion.
Don’t try to factor in boost to valve springs. In compound turbo diesel pulling tractors running close to 300 psi we only run 250 seat pressure and about 850-900 pounds on the nose. If you factor in the square area of a 2.5 inch valve at 300 psi it would never close.
Guys, look at your runs again, on the flywheel side of the engine. You'll see big sparks flying at the same time as the breakup. Your first instinct was right. Not that the other stuff isn't a problem too, but you definitely have a coil grounding out.
If I don't have boost controller, I just put one or two springs on wastegate. Its effective way of adjusting pressure, and you always can go back to stock pressure.
I tought im watching Cleetus Mcfarland when the 99 jets came up lol
Holy cow Sam would be losing his mind seeing 99s on there 😂
Nintee-ninees??
I was thinking the same thing 😅
99's that's a eighth of a inch :)
That things got 99s in it
I was thinking the same thing
"99s?! Thats almost an eighth of an inch!" *in mr sams voice*
I would look into a microsquirt/megasquirt myself, then you can control your fuel/timing and most likely get away with pump/race or e85 for fuel. Love the drag rail series!
To me the dragster is probably most exciting thing you guys have done in quite a while. I'm sitting on the edge of my seat to see the next installment of what's going on with the dragster. Really good stuff!!👍
Same here it's crazy when you think about it people put thousands you know 20 30 40,000 in there car, and a go cart is beating them running 7's 😂😂😂
I agree I definitely love this the best
@@Piunti_302 This thing is gonna hit a 6 if it gets the boost where it can be and a little more stall speed on the converter.
@@WyFoster oh yeaaaa for sure!! Prolly even low to mid 6's
Agreed I love this project
If you guys would like to check iv called every issue before you've had it. You need brass floats (easy to make). When Charles moved the wastegate he took all the preload out hence the low boost they all come at 15 psi more or less. If you take your other turbo and measure the mount to the flapper it's longer than this one. You can also very easily check pop off pressure with a leak down tester or air pressure regulator like for painting and a gauge. It should crack at 13 fully open by 15.5. that tiny hole Ike drilled won't change boost on that tiny turbo a 3way t with one open to atmosphere will give you about 18-19psi unhooked it will get to 20-22psi. I add a nipple to the bottom for actual control. Both hooked up will make 28-30 psi and just the bottom I get about 50psi before the wastegate blows itself open. For more you need a bigger turbine housing and the compressor wheel would do good to have the biggest exduser you can fit so it's not trying to melt itself. Once you get it running okay and get the boost up to launch use the foot brake some but be mindful your heating the clutch and belt. This will give you some boost off the line. Your catch can should really vent to the air filter if you can help it. Makes the crankcase pressure way lower helps rings seal make more power and not leak so much. I personally use e85 for all of the reasons methanol is a pain. Meth is better yes but not by enough to justify it to me and I'm now compound and boost is safely past 60psi just chill the fuel with dry ice and youl be fine on intake temps. I think your ignition is fine for your goals tbh but I'd invest in a real carb. I'm in Wilmington if you guys would like some parts I mights have a carb that would work for you but I'd go hsr all day on this. As for jetting if you bring the whole thing I have every size you could need and between me and my dad were some of the best motorcycle carb guys around so some quick jetting wouldn't be hard maybe an hr. Now one thing I am very concerned about is ignition timing control.. do you have any? Even a simple cdi you set a curve to would be better than nothing.
This is not a loss or a failure. This is an education. You learned something. Keep going!
Every day's a school day, if you're doing it right..
This would be perfect for a carsandcameras and robotcantina Collab. That fella knows how to cobble together an EFI system.
I totally agree ..Robot catina knows his stuff.
99! That's almost an 1/8th inch....Got to love Mr. Sam
I'm so glad you guys revived the drag rail project! This is good stuff!
Guys consider doing a collab with the boostedboiz and put the drag rail on a fueltech ecu and convert it to efi. They did the same on a lifan 200cc shopping go kart and now it does wheelies lol
Boosted Boiz just converted their turbo shopping cart to a FuelTech and had great success setting it up, strongly suggest you guys convert this to EFI as well even if it's not FuelTech (they had some other EFI controller previously)
For future reference, instead of drilling holes in the vacuum line which could potentially rip open larger and let the boost run away, add a vacuum "T" to the line. You can experiment with "T" and "Y" fittings and if you wanted a bit of adjustability in between you can add a line to the vent part of the "T" with a little fuel shutoff to dial it in. Just a suggestion I havent seen in the comments. The main thing is you don't want that boost line to the wastegate to fail or it will just go kill mode and send all the horse-torques to it.
You beat me to it. Awesome suggestion.
Yes, the general rule in HVAC is you add 60 feet of duct when you T it. This has to work the same.
You're basically building a manual boost controller
@@limprooster3253 exactly.
@@jdshanahan4215 So why not just put a T in it with a ball valve threaded into it? I know that's the caveman way of doing it but all we are really going here is controlled boost leak. A couple of passes and you'd have that valve where you want it.
I suggest getting a standalone controller for your ignition, this will allow u to set an rpm limit. This shouldn’t hurt your boost because your air is controlled by the carburetor and as long as that is wide open the turbo will try to build boost so you may be hitting limiter but you’ll still hold boost
Would also allow them to have a timing curve instead of the static timing their flywheel key is at. Probably pick up a measurable amount of power, or at least require less boost
Two steps forward, one step back!
Y'all will get there soon, the rail is godly boys!
Can you make a video on what motors can hook up to turbos for a go kart
Hey I luv everything yal do ..from work n on everything yal can to the editing an camera work ..yal kill it everyday ..I have you tube channel also I would love to come an interview u ..an Ride an an fixn stuff .. let's go
It's been like this for three years going on four years
When you run alky, you need a good carb that will take the corrosive alky and nitro without dissolving. All cheap China carbs are made of pot metal, not actual aluminum, so they will not deal with alky. Time for a Lectron flat slide instead of cheap trash. Also, you never add nitro without having it dialed in before you use it. You still shouldn’t be running nitro because you haven’t figured out what you are doing yet. And, when you aren’t running nitro, you can run M5, which has oils and additives to keep it from being corrosive. Once you get it dialed in on M5, then you start adding small amounts of nitro and tuning it as you go.
Efi would be a neat adventure on that thing. Check out the boostedbois recent video about their shopping cart that has a lifan engine with a turbo and efi on it, that setup on the rail would be epic.
I don't know if you already have one but this project seems like it would benefit greatly from an AFR gauge. Would take a lot of the guess work out and allow you guys to really dial in the tuning
Yes. This.
I was about to comment the same thing. AFR gauge would be so much better. More data, less guess.
i dont know if afr gauges will even work. poisoning, and it not being able to go that rich and all...
@@frigglebiscuit7484 if it's a wideband one should be fine. Seen some in drag racing bikes here in Brazil.
Exhaust gas temp gauge that's how you tune alcohol
Guys, try a small holley two barrel. I know it may sound a bit large, but a 350 two barrel may be your ticket. especially since you are drawing through. give you much better fuel control and more reserve in the bowl. and a pump shot for launch.
Another idea. Should use a megaquirt ECU . Well a microsquirt and single injector. You'd get so much further and have control. A launch co troll etc would all be beneficial too
Boosted Bois put a Fuel Tech on there shopping cart, i thought that would be the best, It would have a 2 step to build boost, and they could add a dependent wastegate
@@lylehausser exactly said the same thing last video would be phenomenally better than the ole socks 🤣
@@lylehausser I utilize fueltech and have for years. It was nice to see them switch a long time ago. The microsquirt is for this type of setup. (low cylinder count and retrofit setups or boosted bike application.). So figured it be a good idea
The drag rail needs efi. We have the technology we just need to convince them its what they need. The carb is cool but efi is just the way direct or port its just a much easier way to do what they are trying to do!
Yeah, microsquirt will work fine also allows you to do stuff like staged injectors so you can use a couple of smaller injectors to get more flow.
This episode was CHOCK FULL of useful data for you guys to learn from. I predict massive improvements in the next rendition of this project.
Sam the man would love seeing that 99 in use.
Some ideas for the dragster 1. Limit the amount of runtime between oil changes(if your running nitro its murder on oil). 2. If there is one available, install a hotter ignition source (capacitor discharge?) 3. Install an air-fuel percentage gauge and video its readouts to include where the car is on the track. 4. Increase air intake capacity by using an aftermarket two barrel carburetor equipped for methanol(300 or 500cfm Holley?) or using one of the smaller turbochargers per cylinder with a carburetor on each.
It's time for a bigger better carburetor! Let's go boys! I'm proud of you guys
Or maybe efi? Turbos and carbs seem pretty archaic. It's bad when there a certain UA-cam shopping cart that's on motec going faster then a drag rail. 😂
@@skeetermccleeter it’s on a fuel tech if you’re referring to the boosted boyz
Yeeaa or a street bike motor gsx600. ..mby cb750
@@skeetermccleeter efi would probably be ideal, but the price is a killer. Maybe they could do like cut out metal Keychains in the shape of a turbo and sell em to buy a efi kit.
@@theworstgamervr price a killer? Efi doesn't have to be expensive, an speeduino could easily run this and can be had for under 150dollars...
This is by far the most exciting and fascinating build you guys have done- not that others were dull by any means- but man this has had me on the edge of my seat watching you guys tryna blow this thing up! LOVE IT!
PSI isn't a sign of boost. It's a sign of restriction. It's not uncommon to have PSI levels drop on bigger turbos. What you're looking for is more airflow turning into more power, and that's really hard to tell outside of a dyno.
I'm probably describing it wrong, but check into it.
so many people miss this
Hey guys I just want you to know that you inspired my first mini bike build. I have a Coleman mini bike that I put a predator 420 in. I just started it today and its spitting 5 inch flames on idle. I think it might be rich lol. I had to buy my first welder for the project and even managed to get a TS125 gas tank on the bike. I only have this epic fire breathing big block because of you guys. I thank you sincerely. BTW I'm 16 idk if that matters but I feel like it adds to it.
A belly pan under the engine could help catch any lost oil if you need it. I knew that Methanol would be an issue but never did I think this fast. Alcohol and Methanol "Eat Parts". Anything plastic/aluminum or rubber is at risk as far as I know. You got this.
The nitro is worse than the methanol. And they shouldn’t even have touched the nitro until they have it dialed in on straight methanol. It’s just like trying to run nitrous with a bad tune, bad stuff is gonna happen. Then add in the fact that they are running cheap Chinese carbs that aren’t even made from actual aluminum, just cheap pot metal, they have set themselves up for failure. They need to ditch the nitro methanol and go with M5. It’s methanol with 5% corrosion inhibitors and top end lube. Once they get dialed in on that, then start adding nitro in small percentages. I really don’t think this engine will handle much more than 20ish percent nitro when it’s tuned right because the stuff is violent. Right now, running the nitro is just making it even harder for them to get right. It’s like they looked up some info on running nitro, then decided that they would do everything you are told not to do.
And there is a huge no-no that I’m surprised they weren’t banned from the track for, or even arrested for. Using a fuel pump that isn’t rated for nitro is not just dangerous, it’s a crime. It’s an actual ATF law because of threat of explosion. By using nitro in a pump that wasn’t rated for it, they created an illegal explosive device. Just connecting a fuel pump not rated for nitro to a tank that has ever contained nitro is a felony. John Force tells a story about one of his crew members getting 25 years in a federal pen just for trying to use one to transfer fuel from a drum to a gas can. He never got a battery on it before he was stopped, but he still got 25 years.
Guys, something to bare in mind. Methanol Eats normal rubber. Any rubber parts of that fuel system will need replacing regularly. Kalrez rubber is a good substitute material. It's expensive but worth it in the long run as it lasts a lot longer.
You guys need a manual boost controller, so you can adjust the boost with the simple twist of a knob.
I was just about to write that. I agree.
You need a 2 step so you can launch that thing and so you can build boost for the launch. I love that you guys are drag racing now.
They could solder in a msd chip inline with a thumb switch to switch from the chipped to unchipped side to interrupt the signal side of the coil that's how we did it on H.e.i distributors when we had to run stock ignition system in claimer class racing run it on the chip the whole race flip it off on the last couple laps and give it hell to the finish
I'd love to see an EFI setup on this thing like you did on the turbo 420 drift trike! If properly tuned, that would rip!
I’d like to see an 883 swap out of a Harley.
@@GradyRho92 but that's lame. It being a cheap Chinese knockoff that does what it does is the point.
"Boost-control" bleed valves are dirt cheap and would make adjusting boost much easier, while avoiding a vacuum leak when off boost.
You can also get knock-off OEM VAG boost control solenoid valves (for like Audi tt and Volkswagen 1.8t engines) for real cheap as well (like 15 bucks on Amazon). Wire it up to a button and you will be able to manually get extra boost if you want, or help build boost before launch by bypassing the wastegate completely.
Never a good feeling when you get back to the shop and bits of engine start falling off 😂
hmmm i heard fueltech makes some pretty nifty dashes with integrated ECU so all youd have to do would be to slap 2 injectors on the intake and have EFI, o2 sensor on the exhaust and you got yourself some pretty nice tunable stuff that can do everything just like a big car would :)
Have you guys measured the emulsion tube diameter for the meth carb setup? The giant main may not be fully giving ya what you think if the emulsion tube is the new restriction. Nothing to do with the sputtering issues, but could potentially allow better AF mix with a smaller main+larger emulsion tube while giving the same volume of fuel.
@sourand jaded Tomatoe Tomato - emulsion tube and needle jet have been used interchangeably for years by virtually every manufacturer and hobbyist.
"We should start with one hole at a time" I told my wife the same thing lol..P.s I think a fuel tech ecu would be magical on that beast..
Holy crap that sucker took off like a slingshot I believe you guys got it dialed in great job
Just need a little bit of stall speed and this thing will pull the front wheels!
I just have to say i can’t believe that 670 has held up this well this long, shes a trooper!
If you want more boost on the fly, just take different sized vacuum T fittings and add one into the waste gate line. The hole Ike made isn't near big enough to do anything. You could also put washers on the wastegate linkage. Id just order a 15 dollar manual boost controller and call it a day. Also, I think you're having a fueling issue. Before you change the electrical, dial back the jet some and get your boost back to that 8lbs. Great video, thanks for the entertainment.
((Edit)) I commented to early ...lol
That will definitely cause a fueling issue.
I'll never forget the $50 go kart videos and how I found you guys. So glad to see you're still great friends, and that you have over a million subscribers now, keep being you 🙏🙏
Cleetus McFarland would be proud of the 99 lol. keep Up the great work you guys!! can't wait for that mini mayham video!
Nope ;-) This show here is way better than this bizzarre Cleetus character.
Yeeehaaaw, get em boys! Go for 6's like Cleetus, 1/8th mile instead of 1/4 but hey, it's a lawnmower motor, gotta keep it realistic 🦅🦅
You guys need a LECTRON carb setup for the fuel you are running, It will solve your fueling problems. You will also need a fuel pump designed for E85 and fuel line for E85 . Love watching your channel and looking forward to the next video .
I agree. A LECTRON carb would definitely be a safe bet for being able to tune a methanol field engine.
Methanol is far more caustic "Corrosive" than Ethanol or E100
Hey guys, your turbo waste gate has an adjustable rod! No need to bend nothing. All you need to do is wind the Rod in a few turns to increase the waste gate spring pressure, equals more boost.
Something I would really love to see is the drag rail with the cross kart engine
For fuel injection maybe look into Mega Squirt. Apparently those can do just about anything that you want them to. Possibly even set up a launch rpm not to mention data logging.
I absolutely LOVE this content
And this build series
John, if you haven’t yet, look into a Speeduino. It is an Arduino-based stand alone ECU that is very simple and cheap to use. It uses TunerStudio for tuning and only requires a few basic sensors to run. If you can adapt a throttle body with port injection it could solve a lot of your carburetor woes. Methanol is a great fuel but will absolutely eat any rubber that isn’t made specifically for it. Love the build!
I got my Speeduino from SpeedyEFI, highly recommend! The standalone cost less than my cams, and it was really easy to get running and dialed in
I'm loving this drag saga more and more for every video. Keep on working on it! Do you have any specific goals you want to reach with this build before moving on?
Run a sub 7.50 at over 100mph!
@@CarsandCameras hey guys you all are doing a great job getting it running very good...iv been drag racing for over 35 years cars.. motorcycles and 4wheelers iv got trophy for all the classes just wanted you to know iv done it along time and I can give you very good advice...if you get the 60 foot time down to around a 1.50 to 1.70 anywhere in that range and your little rail will be in the low 7.0s easy you have got the MPH for it..the MPH being real high like that shows that it's making alot of HP..iv left a couple of messages on a few of your other videos and I keep getting a message to text you on telegram and I don't think that it's you or Issac... someone is trying to hack your members for money...
I hope you get it sorted, I love seeing this drag rail. Years ago when I raced carts, we ran methanol in some of of them. We would drain the tank and run pump gas through it at for a while at the end of the night to combat issues like this. The methanol will cause all kinds of problems if you leave it in there BUT that wouldn't stop it from happening only prolong the damage. It was just a part of racing, you learned to keep spare pumps, diaphragms, hoses and tubing around and change the oil between every heat if allowed. Back than, pump gas was actually gasoline, not the junk in the pump today and I believe they make better parts now days that will hold up a little better. Good luck fellas, I hope to see more.
Awesome dude's looking forward to the next upgrade and run. Also you guys should start your own competition with your own set rules.✌🏻🏴
Hey brother man. You gotta heat them tires UP IN THE WATERBOX! The reving right off the bat, is your tires breaking loose with wheel spin. I know that you guys have already heard the phrase, " SPINNING AIN'T WINNING. " Every second you spin, you're loosing seconds off of your ET's, 60 foot time, and your 120 foot time.
Ya'll fellows keep up the awesome work and, don't worry, Ya'll gonna get to them mid 6's.
I would totally recommend you guys get an AFR gauge for more info on what's going on with the engine as far as tune up goes
Loved the Cleeetus reference with the 99 jet!! Actually laughed my ass off!!
Love watching you guys learn all the basics with your dragster!! Great video for the people that understand what's happening! Fresh reminder off the pain. You we're so close!!
You CAN use a Fuel Tech ECU to run fuel injection/timing on this engine. They’re not cheap, but they’re extremely easy to use and tune.
"99’s!? That’s almost an eighth of an inch!"
Mr. Sam
2x engines, 1 big turbo. Fits on the rails. Use existing intake and fork into two. Use a nonelectronic Weber 2bbl carb, like off a Pinto. Those flow very well.
All this drag racing content has kept me glued to my seat waiting for the next video !
Need a methanol tech carb. You can get a brass float for the carb. The fuel pump is definitely toast. Fuel injection would be great.
If you go efi, use an mt05 Delphi ecm. It's common on several motorcycles and Kohler engines. It can be tuned with HUD ECU hacker (free software). Very universal and can be found second hand for a good price.
99 that's 1/8 of an inch lol Said Sam from Cleetus McFarland crew. If you watch you know.
Remember when you made that Turbo Trike a few years back? And we all agreed that Carburettor turbo setups suck? Bring on the Turbo Methanol Fuel Injection. Thank you for entertaining and sharing.
I believe Lectron carbs are made to withstand m/ethanol not 100% sure on that though. Despite likely costing more than the build up to this point still think it'd be worth at least maybe slowly acquiring stuff for EFI in the future like Fueltech ECU, injectors, pump, FPR, fuel line, filter(s), etc. Still excited to see what you can do with the carb setup when it's all lined out though! 🤘
"a 99?! thats an 1/8th of an inch!" -Sam 2022
Take a good timing light hooked up, and a rubber band around the trigger, with you during the pass, and keep an eye on it if you suspect an ignition problem. You'll see skips in the light that correspond with the misses and pops if the ignition is to blame. If you see a constant, smooth light, then it isnt the ignition. I used to do this with high-performance 2-Stroke outboard motors to diagnose ignition system issues when they were running rough, and it works like a charm to determine if it's an ignition or fuel related issue.
Love watching you guys I'm learning watching you guys.thanx for taking all of us along.
For Fuel Injection System: Suzuki SV650 and SV1000 run fuel injection from 2003 onward. They are V Twin motors and really good bikes 🤙 as far as I know you can get after market computers to tune them too.
As your running turbo probably need the system from the 1000 🤷. Awesome work and video as usual!
Proper blow through system or efi! Start tuning the thing and not just restricting airflow for tune.
The methanol is terribly caustic. When we raced Briggs engines in go karts, we drained everything after the night or pump and carb would be ruined. We pulled head and flushed cylinder wall to prevent damage usually with WD-40. A lot of work but made the difference between winning or losing. A fun series to watch, keep going.
Boosted boiz just got theirs running on fuel tech 550, fuel injection, on a single cylinder
I'll tell you what, I've had a shit week topped off with an absolute shit day, and when I saw this come across my notifications I excitedly added it to my watch later que knowing that watching grown men make ridiculous go karts was sure to brighten my spirits. Keep it up guys ❤️
Go all out & get an EBC (Electronic Boost Controller)! Data Logging, Fully adjustable & helps get earlier boost than "adjust a leak" manual valve method. Combined with a multi-spring tuneable waste-gate Diaphragm Housing Assembly. One and Done! Great effort & video!
I have 4 of them same wheel Dollies. They work good and are varry reliable. Saved a few people on the side of the road with them. One had a broken ball joint so I put one under his front tire and we got it off the road to a safe spot.
Rule of thumb on plug gap is ground electrode should be perpendicular (90 degrees) to the center electrode
"Ike has a record of breaking stuff" = Ike knows that when in doubt throttle out, this is where legends are made!
You should maybe get in touch touch with Kyle from the boosted Boyz he just swapped his small little go cart to efi and even put a fuel tech 550 to control it all and it worked out great for him. Just a thought maybe they can help with getting the parts you might need.
the gt15 waste gate pressure is 13 psi, when you poked holes in the gate tube you made a boost leak, keep in mind you want boost and backpressure balanced, also try to build boost before you leave, i love the videos tho!
Only one thing left to do….stack the old, and new turbos for a compound turbo v twin.
Dang right sam will tell you about them 99s ask cleatus mcfarland!! Lol great job on the dragster. Thanks guys.
so glad you guys put the spotlight back on this thing, its been a great series so far and i cant wait for it to finally take off like a rocket down the strip.
Highly recommend lectron carbs if you want power and to run alcohol or methanol. Also change any rubber fuel lines to a PTFE hose. Methanol eats rubber and most plastics.
You guys should check out 2stroke stuffing and see what he did to modify his carburator to work with boost.
If you guys want to fine tune the pressure going to the wastegate you can install a boost increase valve or even a variable one.
I think the time has come to go Fuel-tec, there is so much potential, can't wait for more, love the channel and keep it up mate cheers 🇦🇺😃
Yes, methanol and ethanol eat up plastic and rubber parts, and aluminum as well if left to sit.
Jon says it reminds me of Taco Bell 😂😂 great vid guys
I like the cleetus reference with the 99 jet lol
got the 99 jet from Cleetus and Sam at McFarland Racing 🤣
You guys are tops in getting something from such a small package. I enjoy and am cheering you on to better performance with this dragster .
Yall should definitely put what Boostedboys put on their shopping go cart. Great for tuning
And get the best spark syst you can or something for a car possibly?
Love seeing Isaac get distracted by the cars going down the strip as he's talking, I know I'm not alone!
The linkage rod between the wastegate and the actuator is adjustable, tighten it a few turns and see where the boost goes.
You need a super cheap adjustable T for fish-tank air bubbler pipe for the waste gate relief. Used it on my MG Metro turbo and set to 0.2mm air leak. Dont need much or youll get detonation
and then youll need water mist injection to stop it melting stuff.
"99 jet😬 that's almost 1/8th of an inch!" -Sam- the fellas will know what this quote is from. hell yeah brother if that helps out. Sorry I couldn't resist quoting Sam when he said a 99 jet. Glad to see the drag rail going through all this testing trying to really bring out its best you guys will eventually get to hang of it I think it might be time for a delorto something from like a air-cooled Volkswagen beetle or even a dual barrel Weber
99's
OK, I grew up (60's & 70's) putting bailing wire on every part of my 327 that should have had a bolt so I will reference BC Driven to say fix the vac line you poked holes in. Ungauged leaking vac lines will warp valves in the right setting so his, her, or its (no pun intended) suggestion is a good one. That can come back to haunt you in the near future. Great job finding the problem. Damn cool mechanix.
Look into Speeduino for your ECU, and look into GSXR750 throttle bodies for an ITB setup. You might also want a blow-off valve, in which case I recommend a Turbosmart RFL for sound and price. If you don't want to go through the process of programming and wiring up the Speeduino, maybe check out a Microsquirt as those are made for motorcycles and other smaller engine applications, I think. But much more expensive compared to the Speeduino, which is homebrew and based on an Arduino board.
The reason I rec the GSXR750 TBs is due to displacement vs RPM. In the end you have a little less than the same displacement, but a little more than half the RPM, which should balance out in the middle, so yeah. Kinda like how you can use a G25-660 on a K24 and a Busa and achieve similar proportional results because while the Busa is about half the displacement, it also revs about twice as high.
Don't forget the more boost you run the higher the valve spring pressure needs to be. When you take the surface area of the back side of the valve and calculate the additional force applied by boost pressure the factory valve springs may not be able to control the valves motion.
Wouldn't that only be on the intake valve, during the exhaust stroke? Certainly shouldn't matter for the exhaust valve
Don’t try to factor in boost to valve springs. In compound turbo diesel pulling tractors running close to 300 psi we only run 250 seat pressure and about 850-900 pounds on the nose. If you factor in the square area of a 2.5 inch valve at 300 psi it would never close.
Guys, look at your runs again, on the flywheel side of the engine. You'll see big sparks flying at the same time as the breakup. Your first instinct was right. Not that the other stuff isn't a problem too, but you definitely have a coil grounding out.
If I don't have boost controller, I just put one or two springs on wastegate. Its effective way of adjusting pressure, and you always can go back to stock pressure.