Thank you for probably the best description on this repair on youtube. A couple of differences in what I did: 1) I just clipped the wire lead ins so that I could just solder the replacement output power cord to them rather than the circuit board. Didn't have to peal back the shielding or dig so far into the transformer to do it that way. Did use wire shrink insulators after soldering. 2) taped the transformer back together with gorilla tape (duct tape) in the off chance I need to do this again. 3) Put a little loop in the output cord by the plug and glued it in place with my hot glue gun, to remove stress on this particular piece.
You gave me an idea! My problem is that the cable fails right where it leaves the rubberized stress reliever gizmo (which is miserably designed). I might try cutting the wire a few inches beyond the failure point, removing the rubberized gizmo, and soldering my new cut ends to the good part of the wire. I'll make it look great with a combination of heat shrink tubing, glue gun and duct tape.
@@johnschubert825 Just keep in mind that the black wire is actually the bare shielding down the rest of the cable. It's going to take a real heat-shrink tubing artist to get that done (but it's probably doable).
I can't help being British (Welsh to be precise) but I try my best to speak calmly (and edit out any pauses and stutters) unless I'm mouthing off about something :)
Thoroughly informative tutorial. Thanks. I'd like to add one tip: When reassembling the two housing halves, clean and straighten the groove all around the edge of one of the halves into which the tongue of the other half is supposed to fit. When opening the MagSafe, the groove or tongue can get bent of marred, making it hard to fit the two halves snugly. For the curious: the failure in my MagSafe plug was due to intermittent contact of the spring-loaded center (control) pin: the spring behind the pin is so tiny and weak that it got fatigued with time, and could no longer push the pin firmly against the computer's contact.
Tips ..I opened the plastic up ONLY A LITTLE BIT so to retain some of the original back end clips, (I put wedges in to stop it closing), cut the wires as close to the plastic/rubber connection as poss, (shortened the new replacement eBay cable a bit), then used pliers (black and white). Each wire held out so I could carefully strip and solder (wire to wire), then I taped them it with electrical tape (making sure the tape could not move and cause a short! rubber sleeves are better if have them) then a sparing bit of superglue and your foot help down on it for a min. Job Done! thanks!
I was able to watch half of the video to learn how to successfully repair my charger. Thanks for the helpful demonstration! It waved me quite a bit of money.
I had a break in a wire right near the power supply. Using your instructions on opening it up and describing what's in there, I shortened the wire and re-connected it inside. Thanks for the video, it was really helpful.
I have a question. I'm not sure how to describe this. Did you manage to run the cable thru the thing holding the conductors from being pulled out of the soldering? If not what's holding them?
@@NigelGentry well done. I ended up drilling a hole through the thing for the whole cable to slide through. I kept it narrow enough for it to still firmly hold the cable in place.
Thanks for the credit on the opening method and the link to the intractable I wrote :) I'm glad it's helped so many people! (now if I could only get my cats to stop chewing on my cords)
It certainly has! A few people have tried fixing the MagSafe connector itself but they're very difficult to open without damaging them (one idiot had a pop at me reckoning the MagSafe fix was easy, but seeing as he managed to pick up his soldering iron by the "business end" when trying to fix it his opinion counts for shit).
Brilliant! Thanks for the tip on how to open the case with pliers - it worked a dream. I had to remove the cable gland as the cable had been damaged where it enters the charger - the outer screen of the cable was completely broken. As the cable was moulded into the gland, I found the best way to remove the bit of old cable was to carefully snip off the leads on the inner side of the gland, then use a 3.5mm drill to drill out a hole though the glade to push the cable though. Then strip back the cable about 2cm, twist the outer shield and put a bit of heatshrink sleeve on, then solder the outer to the ground pad on the pcb and the inner to the power pad.
I tried it at home! I was working on magsafe2, and the cord colours and holes are slightly different. My replacement cord came with a mere 1mm of prodtruding black wire with a green extension already soldered on to it and 1mm of grey wire with a red extension. The original cord had black and white wires, no green anywhere, the merest hint of melted red insulation at the end of the white one (but I couldn't really see that until after it was removed). As a rank amateur, I noted mentally but failed to WRITE DOWN or photograph which wire was in which hole before I removed them both, then of course I couldn't remember. I found that on both the new cord and the old, I seemed to have full conductivity from BOTH wires to ALL FIVE pins at the magnetic end (and no this wasn't just because the old cord was broken and the new one a dud -- the black wire clearly corresponds to the outer conductor of the coax). Everything else seemed very much the same as your video, so stupidly I simply took a punt as to orientation. It didn't work ... so I swapped the wires over ... electrocuted my middle finger in the process, of course, because I'd had it plugged in and didn't discharge it. YEOW! I figured I had probably fried the adaptor as well as my finger, but I carried on regardless (more cautiously) and lo, it works fine now I have the orientation correct. For those in my boat with magsafe2 and uncertain as to orientation, the black/green wire goes nearest the edge of the PCB and the grey/red wire goes behind the small bright blue ceramic capacitor. BTW I do love your accent. Torchwood with maybe the very merest hint of Littlefinger.
Hi Thank you very much for this video. I am absolutely grateful to you. I am able to fix my broken cable. I dont have a spare cable though. My cable was cut off at the white brick end. I copped off and resoldered and it is absolutely working fine. I am not able to put back the connector as it is laminated to the cable, so got rid of that and resoldered. NOW I'M ABSOLUTELY HAPPY!!! THANK YOU!!!
Props to you sir! I just used this tutorial and it worked like a charm! I've never soldered before or done anything the least bit technical, but it still worked perfectly on the first try. I didn't replace my cable, just cut a bit off the end and stripped the old cable, re-soldered, and bing... Orange charging light!
Yep. I've just fished the chewed-up remains of the dead connector from the bin (which is lucky, tomorrow is "bin day"). 4 LEDs (2 per side), a handful of other discrete SMDs and a 6-pin chip marked 3AB1 2100, all crammed into that aluminium barrel.
Excellent - so glad you put this up. My problem was a break in the cable where it enters the brick itself due to repeated strain. Apparently, this happens fairly frequently. I did a patch job of soldering and shrink-wrapping the break that lasted about 6 months. I'm so glad you've figured a way to get into the brick itself so I can do a proper job!
Great video. In my case, the wire was broken at the other end, right next to the "brick." Needed to fix today and could not find new wires. A simple fix was to carefully cut into the rubber nipple at the end of the brick and also remove about half an inch of white insulation along the wire. This exposes a fine silver mesh around a grey wire. The grey mesh had broken from repetitive movements and I was able to twist a section of it on both sides, then soldered a small amount of wire to bridge the mesh together. At this point one just has to wrap up the cut (my preference is vulcanizing or self fusing tape). It works well and I did not have to take apart the brick! If the center wire is broken, then one would have two parts to solder and carefully ensure that they are insulated from one another.
Awesome. Just completed this - worked a treat. Thank you. Before I closed it up I made sure it worked and charged my Macbook. I then realised I'd just put myself at risk from a nice capacitor discharge like you had. Rather than use a screwdriver I connected it to my Macbook without mains power, green/orange LED glowed for a split second and then went out. I'm thinking this is possibly a better and safer way to discharge the circuit. Thanks again for the vid. I now have two refurbished chargers!
+ThisIsMud that's a safer way to discharge ... if it's all in working order. In my case it wasn't (my own fault, I got the orientation wrong due to ambiguous colour coding and arrogant overconfidence in my visual memory).
This method really comes into its own when soldering multicore cables, where it also has the advantage that if the tape comes off one of the joints, it can't short out to one of its neighbours as the neighbouring joints are either further up or further down the cable.
Hey, thanks so much for taking the time to put this up, I'm now typing this from my laptop with repaired charger, you've saved me a load of money! Cheers!
Thanks, just used your tutorial to fix my powercord. Didn't discharge the condensors, but wasn't a problem. Just be extra careful. Putting the adapter back together was a bit of a hustle, so now it hangs together using a piece of tape. But I don't mind, I've installed the fixed adapter behind my desk and I'm using a new adapter on the road. Thanks again!
Thanks, just repaired the power adapter after following the instructions of the video, can't get it wrong. Cost of the cable on Amazon: 8€. I owe you the 80-90€ I saved.
Thank you so much. You save me 80€ for a new magsafe. So easy to repair with your tutorial I spent less than 10 minutes and around 10 euros for the replacement cable. Thanks from Spain!
Yes, T and L are interchangeable. 45 watt, 60 watt and 85 watt may not be though, as there's an IC in the MagSafe connector that apparently (see other comments) tells the MacBook what the power supply is. Don't nick one off an aircraft power cable either, I read (on Wikipedia I think) that these are designed to run the laptop but not charge the battery.
Very useful video, I just finished repairing my wife's charger. She has a MBP, less than a year old, and there were some minor changes to the brick. Those 2 flaps of shielding have changed from a silver color to gold, and have also been soldered together in 2 places (no longer just taped down and inserted together). In the end, the 2 halves of my power brick didn't seal together totally, so I couldn't get the cable winding tabs to stay in, but no big deal... never used them anyways!
Great video! Thanks for taking the shock from the capacitor so future DIYers didn't have too! I couldn't believe it was just two wires within that fancy Apple cord.
Just did mine in about an hours time total- including getting the tools out and finding a few things.I also put white shrink wrap on both ends of the new cord to add a bit of strain relief. That way I don't have to replace it so soon again. I ordered two cords so I'll have one already the next time it dies. As a bonus I used the heat gun to help when splitting the two halves. That way mine came apparat easier and there wasn't any rough edges or damage.
+2204JCM what do you mean by "splitting the two halves"? you mean opening the power supply only with a heat gun, in order to avoid cracking the clips, hence not using super glue?
Great repair tutorial! Except the test at the end is missing. But anyway: Good camera and lighting, well explained. No need for me though, as I own two of these still working without any fault for 7 years now. I really liked to see you fixing one.
Excellent video! I just replaced my cord for $6.00, instead of spending a bunch of money on a computer cord that is ten year's old! And, it was fun to do. Good luck. Advice to add--be careful not to connect the new soldering dabs for the two wires, and be extra careful not to tear any of the board tape inside the box.
Thanks a lot. Not sure if I had an original Apple product or not, but the MagSafe wire was insulated only on the white line. In the cable, the wire carrying the "black" signal isn't insulated. The black insulation starts on the board, but stops after about an inch. And of course, the white insulation started to break apart, and a beautiful short circuit happened between black and white lines.
That wouldn't look as nice, but it's certainly possible! When doing that I'd cut the braid and the core as different lengths (so one cable has a long braid and a short core, the other has a short braid and a long core). When soldering together, the two joints will be out of alignment so once the cable's taped up the joint will have a longer but slimmer profile.
Thanks. That looked like a pretty serious belt you got off those caps! Just finished fixing up a 2010 ebay MBP so will probably end up having to do this judging by all the reviews of the 'quality' of the Magsafe on the Apple site lol. Mine has 2 cables and not a plug so I'm hoping they used to build them better than they do now! I'll probably just cut the cable and solder the new end on with heatshrink though. Nice to see somebody giving them the finger about £85 for a replacement that barely lasts a year. Good work.
Thank you very much for this very informative and detailed video. The shop guy asked damn 100 $from me for a new one. You saved me all the money and gained some skills in electronic repair too.
Very good video. Just two comments: It would be easier to desolder/solder if you have some kind of support for the main structure (brick) and when desoldering cables is not good to use mechanical force, I know if from (bad) experiences, it's natural to attempt that but PCB's traces are so thin and can break very easily, just be patient and extra cautious about that part.
Watch out if opening the charger. It's not designed to be worked on, so there don't appear to be any discharge resistors across the input smoothing capacitor. This can store up to 350 volts DC and as you can see in the video it takes a LONG time to discharge itself, even two days isn't enough!
@@fisnikkastrati837 yep, short it out like he did in the video as a precaution - always wise to do with big capacitors when taking things apart. If you have any slightly higher power resistors you could also use one of those to discharge slightly slower (nicer on the capacitor and not so sparky!)
Sounds like you may have short-circuited something in the adapter. Could be a stray strand of wire or blob of solder, could be that the metal shielding is touching something it's not supposed to.
T and L connectors are interchangeable. You need to get one from the correct size of power supply, though. If you have a 90W power supply fitted with a cable from a 65W power supply, the MacBook will think it's a 65W power supply because the chip that controls the charging is inside the connector, not the charger.
Searching for "magsafe repair" usually comes up with the goods. As mentioned in an earlier comment, T or L shape are interchangeable, but you'll want the correct wattage cable as the charging is controlled by the Magsafe plug itself.
@@edwardcullen3251 T and L are interchangeable. I wouldn't use a 60W cable on a 45W charger as the circuitry in the plug will tell the MacBook that it can draw more than the power brick itself can safely provide.
Thanks man! I took me about 10-15 minutes to repair my charger. A bit funnier than paying apple 90€ for a new charger! However they decided to FILL my charger to the brim with silicone. Thanks a lot Apple! :P Now I'll just have to order a few extra replacement cables so that i can repair my 3 other old broken MagSafe-chargers. :-) As a bonus, I can upgrade my old MagSafe-chargers to MagSafe 2, so that I no longer need the annoying adapter that gets lost.
"To those who think Apple MagSafe connectors are useless: it's better than trying to repair a broken DC input jack on a laptop, which in many cases involve a total stripdown of the laptop just to get to the solder pads. Been there, done that" Done that too, you are right!
Thanks for the video. I honestly only watched the first few minutes and then took it from there but it was a very helpful start, particularly your method of popping apart the case. The soldering (removing old and re-installing new leads) went easier than anticipated; the holes on the mounting board stayed open and retained a little solder ring around them which helped the new solder grab easily. I also held the whole contraption down to my desktop edge with a large spring clamp so it was easier to pull down on the old wire with pliers (as I heated the solder) without it scooting around.
Thanks friend for posting this helpful DIY video, I used it in theory ( I didnt use a solder, I don't have it) and it turned out to be working as well! you saved me 150 bucks well at least I will save money until I get a new one and this still works. Greeting from Mexico city.
Very useful, thank you. Seems that the soldering iron is not hot enough. Also, I question your soldering method : I have learned and apply this method : heat the wire, melt the solder on the wire. From what I saw in the video you melt the solder on the iron itself: this leads to a much less strong solder because the wire itself may never reaches the solder melting temperature. Sorry for my english, not my language.
There was some sort of class action lawsuit against them before they redesigned the connector, from what I've read if the old-style ones fail you can get them replaced for free. I don't know which countries that applies to though, and I doubt it applies to the new-style connectors.
Nice video, bud 👍🏻helped me a lot both on disassembly and assembling the thing back. Mine only had a broken piece of power cord that I just cut and soldered back - good as new 👌🏻
Even if the MacBook is out of warranty, try them. There's a comment further down from someone who did, plus I believe they'll exchange ones with duff "T-style" connectors, but I can't remember where I saw that.
After having five or six of them go down (we have quite a few MBP at home and more at work), buying new ones sounds less attractive. We repair them in bulk.
Hey, Great tutorial! Unfortunately I attempted to repair my charger before watching this video(I saw another video). I cut the two crimp spade terminal connectors and solderd the tips of the cable directly to the board. I would like to do the repair properly (don't worry I wont connect the charger until the job is complete and solderd in the PROPER way) - do you know what amperage are the crimp spade terminal connectors? that way I can order them on Ebay and repair the damn charger. Thank you so much
@@yossefatia3536 I suspect it'll be more to do with the CSA of the wire than the current rating (which would be about 4.6A for the 85W charger). You might be better off getting an assortment.
Knew there would be a way inside this little beast. Thanks for the tips. My Retina MagSafeII was a little different and required a bit more "persuasion". Note, if you have ring extractor pliers these work quite well to open the seams as this type of pliers can be set to push out the jaws when you squeeze the grips. Very handy. These cases are pretty well glued together and an X-acto knife judiciously placed. opened the seams where brute force alone would have cracked the case sides. Also, the Retina supply uses an epoxy heat sink compound to bond the supply heat sink to the plastic case. Apple supplies are notorious for getting extremely hot when on full charge. Metal to plastic heat conduction is a pretty poor method for heat dissipation. Beware of your charger overheating after your repair or better yet, use some metal particle filled epoxy between the heat sink plate and the plastics side. I used epoxy also to glue the case back together as there were a few open cracks that epoxy can fill better than cyanoacrylate.
Great tutorial :) I think it's the best about MBP charger repair on YT. It's great to see it can be done without damaging whole the plastic cover! Thank you!
This is the best video to repair the Mac charger. my question is I got wire which is black and red. The cord from the charger is one wire is black and the other one is white with a green color tip of the wire. Is the red one goes with green one
This is the best video to repair the mac charger. I ordered mine from eBay. I'm little confused about the wire that I got. the wire in the charger is black and white the white one with green tip. Should I solder the red one where the green one placed.
**RockStar** Anyone who posts "HOW TO" videos on UA-cam ought to be forced to watch your video (this Video) before they are allowed to post. That was a seriously fantastic description how to properly complete a giant pain in the ass PATA project
There are components within the plug itself. I don't know if there's a fuse in the power supply circuit. From what I've seen SMPSUs respond to overload either by shutting down until they're power-cycled (PC power supply) or burning out whatever shorted it (original Xbox power supply). If the PSU is dead and turning the power off (in the case of a MacBook supply it could need to be off for DAYS to discharge itself) hasn't fixed it, I'd try tapping into the cable and checking the voltage there.
Once you open it, it doesn't want to stick back together. Especially the front part, where the wire comes out. You'll need some strong clue and a clamp, to make it hold, or just put some tape around it.
I just tried this - got the case open by using an x-acto knife to score along the seams to weaken the clips, then it snapped open fairly easily. BUT - when I got inside, the side of the PCB that you need to be able to solder on is GLUED with I-don't-know-what to the inside of the case. I tryed prying as much as I dared, but couldn't get it loose. My only problem is that the cat chewed on the cable and it has to be jiggled sometimes to start charging. I've always wanted a longer cable - so I think I'm just going to cut the cable and solder/ splice in the replacement cable with some heat shrink to cover it. If that fails - I guess apple is going to get 80 bucks from me. I'm not going to risk a cheap-o 3rd party power brick frying my MacBook Air.
You may be able to discharge the extra 'charge' by leaving the cable plugged into the macbook -- meanwhile do not plug the charger into the wall receptacle (wall outlet/ plug-in). The charger won't be accepting any charge from the outlet, but will still be outputting charge to the macbook itself. Which should discharge the charger.. If that makes sense? Great vid.
Heat it well with a heat gun or a magic bag before trying to pry it. You may also use a vice to force cracking. If it does not pop right away, it's not hot enough.
Dc jacks in older laptops usually only break if you're being too rough with them. There are exceptions, but they're usually pretty solid. MagSafe cables on the other hand tend to self-destruct with time. I think many newer laptops are moving away from dc jacks directly soldered to the motherboard. All of the Lenovo laptops at the school I work at have plastic shrouds that hold the dc jack in position, then a detachable wire running to a connector on the motherboard. In this way there's no stress on the solder joints. MagSafe would be fine if the cables were reinforced correctly. They're too cheaply made.
Sounds like Lenovo are using some common sense. I've covered a table in laptop parts in order to get at the DC jack's solder points before now, on more than one occasion. Much prefer MagSafe.
AintBigAintClever They are, in that regard. I got a laptop for free because of a broken dc jack, used it for a good year after I fixed it. I have been there. Thing is, I have never had to repair a dc jack on a laptop that wasn't already broken when I got it. Design/solder quality obviously varies between models and manufacturers. Magsafe is definitely a better conceptual design, but there are many run-of-the-mill laptop models that can go for a decade or more with the original power adapter and dc jack with normal use. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I hadn't heard of, or noticed, many power adapter issues with Apple's laptops prior to magsafe.
Thank you from Indianapolis. Another charger fixed with your instruction. Typing this with superglue stuck to my fingertips while waiting for the clamped case to set.
Interesting. All that's embedded in the MagSafe plug, there are only two wires back to the power supply. It also means that the MagSafe leads aren't interchangeable between supply types, as a 60 watt PSU with a 45 watt lead will tell the MacBook that it's a 45 watt supply.
true. My wife should know more about the warranty. It broke and her response..."FIX IT!" I should of looked into the warranty first! Thank you for the great vid though!
I soldered the two wires to the two power block ends but its not working. Chord does have connectivity. When I opened the case some aluminium tape ripped off, could this be the issues?
I did a similar fix on my sister cheap Chinese laptop charger, But the wires were broken inside due to her wrapping the cable around the charger. cracked it open de-soldered the old wire and used some heavy duty speaker as a replacement with a new DC jack from Ebay.
(To Simón Torres) Applying some force is needed in order to remove the wires: they have a terminal lug with a sort of clip that fits inside the circuit. If you want to avoid force, you need to suck out most of the sulder and cut the clip before removing the wires.
Had difficulty opening adp60adv. Almost gave up. Apparently both plastic sides were glued to the metal shielding. I guess putting four screws is more expensive for Apple than the toxic glue.
Ah right yeah. The middle pin is sort of how the power adapter communicates with the macbook. It's a charge control pin that assists with changing the LED color, and also assists with switching the adapter off. No power will be output from any of the other pins until contact is made with the center Charge Control pin. This pin is also used to transfer additional information, such as the power type and serial number of the power supply.
ironically, the casing on my Asus laptop's power brick came apart on 3 of the 4 sides a month ago. I stuck some duct tape on along the length, and it's stayed together since.
Something to make this easier, not sure if it's been posted before, but rather than using long nose pliers to separate the case, I use circlip pliers. That way you can spread the case by squeezing the handles, rather than pulling them apart. Much more natural and controllable motion :)
would it have been easier to clip the wires once you had it open and connect the new leads there . still allowing you to secure the anti-pull in the slot.
Hi Sir, I saw your this UA-cam video regarding repairing Apple MagSafe Power adapater. This is excellent learning! Recently, my MacBook Pro's adapter (85W) stopped working after a spark while plugging in. I have successfully opened it. However, I'm unable to see any 'fuse' kind of component inside. Can you please help me what should I check so that I can try to fix the issue? Thanks for your guidance, Sir.
Hi Could AintBigAintClever please supplier a link to the trusted eBay seller for the cable - also how much would you expect a computer repair shop to cost to install - thanks in advance.
Thank you for probably the best description on this repair on youtube. A couple of differences in what I did:
1) I just clipped the wire lead ins so that I could just solder the replacement output power cord to them rather than the circuit board. Didn't have to peal back the shielding or dig so far into the transformer to do it that way. Did use wire shrink insulators after soldering.
2) taped the transformer back together with gorilla tape (duct tape) in the off chance I need to do this again.
3) Put a little loop in the output cord by the plug and glued it in place with my hot glue gun, to remove stress on this particular piece.
You gave me an idea! My problem is that the cable fails right where it leaves the rubberized stress reliever gizmo (which is miserably designed). I might try cutting the wire a few inches beyond the failure point, removing the rubberized gizmo, and soldering my new cut ends to the good part of the wire. I'll make it look great with a combination of heat shrink tubing, glue gun and duct tape.
@@johnschubert825 "I'll make it look great with a combination of heat shrink tubing, glue gun and duct tape."
The words of a true tinkerer. Thumbs up!
@@johnschubert825 Just keep in mind that the black wire is actually the bare shielding down the rest of the cable. It's going to take a real heat-shrink tubing artist to get that done (but it's probably doable).
Thanks for being british and speaking so calmly mate :)
I can't help being British (Welsh to be precise) but I try my best to speak calmly (and edit out any pauses and stutters) unless I'm mouthing off about something :)
Monde de petit
Great Video. I bought the cable for $11 (instead of $80 for an adapter from apple) and used your video as a guide.
Thank you!
The really best movie about reparing the MB power supply. Without destroying the cover and with exact clarifying every single step. Many hanks!
Thoroughly informative tutorial. Thanks.
I'd like to add one tip: When reassembling the two housing halves, clean and straighten the groove all around the edge of one of the halves into which the tongue of the other half is supposed to fit. When opening the MagSafe, the groove or tongue can get bent of marred, making it hard to fit the two halves snugly.
For the curious: the failure in my MagSafe plug was due to intermittent contact of the spring-loaded center (control) pin: the spring behind the pin is so tiny and weak that it got fatigued with time, and could no longer push the pin firmly against the computer's contact.
Tips ..I opened the plastic up ONLY A LITTLE BIT so to retain some of the original back end clips, (I put wedges in to stop it closing), cut the wires as close to the plastic/rubber connection as poss, (shortened the new replacement eBay cable a bit), then used pliers (black and white). Each wire held out so I could carefully strip and solder (wire to wire), then I taped them it with electrical tape (making sure the tape could not move and cause a short! rubber sleeves are better if have them) then a sparing bit of superglue and your foot help down on it for a min. Job Done! thanks!
I was able to watch half of the video to learn how to successfully repair my charger. Thanks for the helpful demonstration! It waved me quite a bit of money.
I had a break in a wire right near the power supply. Using your instructions on opening it up and describing what's in there, I shortened the wire and re-connected it inside. Thanks for the video, it was really helpful.
I have a question. I'm not sure how to describe this. Did you manage to run the cable thru the thing holding the conductors from being pulled out of the soldering? If not what's holding them?
@@HelloStrangerPod I did manage to slide the cable through that thing. I seem to remember that it was quite hard to slide along the cable, though.
@@NigelGentry well done. I ended up drilling a hole through the thing for the whole cable to slide through. I kept it narrow enough for it to still firmly hold the cable in place.
After watching this, i did my own, took me only 15 minutes! Everything was exactly as shown in the video. Thanks mate!
You're handy. 15 minutes is fast for this work.
Thanks for the credit on the opening method and the link to the intractable I wrote :) I'm glad it's helped so many people! (now if I could only get my cats to stop chewing on my cords)
It certainly has! A few people have tried fixing the MagSafe connector itself but they're very difficult to open without damaging them (one idiot had a pop at me reckoning the MagSafe fix was easy, but seeing as he managed to pick up his soldering iron by the "business end" when trying to fix it his opinion counts for shit).
Brilliant! Thanks for the tip on how to open the case with pliers - it worked a dream. I had to remove the cable gland as the cable had been damaged where it enters the charger - the outer screen of the cable was completely broken. As the cable was moulded into the gland, I found the best way to remove the bit of old cable was to carefully snip off the leads on the inner side of the gland, then use a 3.5mm drill to drill out a hole though the glade to push the cable though. Then strip back the cable about 2cm, twist the outer shield and put a bit of heatshrink sleeve on, then solder the outer to the ground pad on the pcb and the inner to the power pad.
I tried it at home!
I was working on magsafe2, and the cord colours and holes are slightly different. My replacement cord came with a mere 1mm of prodtruding black wire with a green extension already soldered on to it and 1mm of grey wire with a red extension. The original cord had black and white wires, no green anywhere, the merest hint of melted red insulation at the end of the white one (but I couldn't really see that until after it was removed). As a rank amateur, I noted mentally but failed to WRITE DOWN or photograph which wire was in which hole before I removed them both, then of course I couldn't remember.
I found that on both the new cord and the old, I seemed to have full conductivity from BOTH wires to ALL FIVE pins at the magnetic end (and no this wasn't just because the old cord was broken and the new one a dud -- the black wire clearly corresponds to the outer conductor of the coax). Everything else seemed very much the same as your video, so stupidly I simply took a punt as to orientation.
It didn't work ... so I swapped the wires over ... electrocuted my middle finger in the process, of course, because I'd had it plugged in and didn't discharge it. YEOW! I figured I had probably fried the adaptor as well as my finger, but I carried on regardless (more cautiously) and lo, it works fine now I have the orientation correct.
For those in my boat with magsafe2 and uncertain as to orientation, the black/green wire goes nearest the edge of the PCB and the grey/red wire goes behind the small bright blue ceramic capacitor.
BTW I do love your accent. Torchwood with maybe the very merest hint of Littlefinger.
Hi Thank you very much for this video. I am absolutely grateful to you. I am able to fix my broken cable. I dont have a spare cable though. My cable was cut off at the white brick end. I copped off and resoldered and it is absolutely working fine. I am not able to put back the connector as it is laminated to the cable, so got rid of that and resoldered. NOW I'M ABSOLUTELY HAPPY!!! THANK YOU!!!
Props to you sir! I just used this tutorial and it worked like a charm! I've never soldered before or done anything the least bit technical, but it still worked perfectly on the first try. I didn't replace my cable, just cut a bit off the end and stripped the old cable, re-soldered, and bing... Orange charging light!
Thanks! You just helped me answer my question 9 years later. I went into the comments meaning to ask if that was possible. Cheers 🙂
Yep. I've just fished the chewed-up remains of the dead connector from the bin (which is lucky, tomorrow is "bin day").
4 LEDs (2 per side), a handful of other discrete SMDs and a 6-pin chip marked 3AB1 2100, all crammed into that aluminium barrel.
Excellent - so glad you put this up. My problem was a break in the cable where it enters the brick itself due to repeated strain. Apparently, this happens fairly frequently. I did a patch job of soldering and shrink-wrapping the break that lasted about 6 months. I'm so glad you've figured a way to get into the brick itself so I can do a proper job!
Great video. In my case, the wire was broken at the other end, right next to the "brick." Needed to fix today and could not find new wires. A simple fix was to carefully cut into the rubber nipple at the end of the brick and also remove about half an inch of white insulation along the wire. This exposes a fine silver mesh around a grey wire. The grey mesh had broken from repetitive movements and I was able to twist a section of it on both sides, then soldered a small amount of wire to bridge the mesh together. At this point one just has to wrap up the cut (my preference is vulcanizing or self fusing tape). It works well and I did not have to take apart the brick!
If the center wire is broken, then one would have two parts to solder and carefully ensure that they are insulated from one another.
Liked the simple way of opening it with pliers. So it still would look good afterwards... Thank you!
Awesome. Just completed this - worked a treat. Thank you.
Before I closed it up I made sure it worked and charged my Macbook. I then realised I'd just put myself at risk from a nice capacitor discharge like you had. Rather than use a screwdriver I connected it to my Macbook without mains power, green/orange LED glowed for a split second and then went out. I'm thinking this is possibly a better and safer way to discharge the circuit.
Thanks again for the vid. I now have two refurbished chargers!
+ThisIsMud that's a safer way to discharge ... if it's all in working order. In my case it wasn't (my own fault, I got the orientation wrong due to ambiguous colour coding and arrogant overconfidence in my visual memory).
+Jonathan Maddox that's where digital cameras come in handy. Been there, done that.
Thanks for the video. My lead didn't need replacing, but I found a number of dry joints on the PCB once you'd demonstrated how to get into it!
This method really comes into its own when soldering multicore cables, where it also has the advantage that if the tape comes off one of the joints, it can't short out to one of its neighbours as the neighbouring joints are either further up or further down the cable.
I’ve just fixed mine! First time using a solder in my life! Thanks so much! :) saved 80 quid!
Hey, thanks so much for taking the time to put this up, I'm now typing this from my laptop with repaired charger, you've saved me a load of money! Cheers!
Thanks, just used your tutorial to fix my powercord. Didn't discharge the condensors, but wasn't a problem. Just be extra careful. Putting the adapter back together was a bit of a hustle, so now it hangs together using a piece of tape. But I don't mind, I've installed the fixed adapter behind my desk and I'm using a new adapter on the road.
Thanks again!
Thanks, just repaired the power adapter after following the instructions of the video, can't get it wrong. Cost of the cable on Amazon: 8€. I owe you the 80-90€ I saved.
Thank you so much. You save me 80€ for a new magsafe. So easy to repair with your tutorial I spent less than 10 minutes and around 10 euros for the replacement cable.
Thanks from Spain!
Yes, T and L are interchangeable. 45 watt, 60 watt and 85 watt may not be though, as there's an IC in the MagSafe connector that apparently (see other comments) tells the MacBook what the power supply is.
Don't nick one off an aircraft power cable either, I read (on Wikipedia I think) that these are designed to run the laptop but not charge the battery.
Very useful video, I just finished repairing my wife's charger. She has a MBP, less than a year old, and there were some minor changes to the brick. Those 2 flaps of shielding have changed from a silver color to gold, and have also been soldered together in 2 places (no longer just taped down and inserted together).
In the end, the 2 halves of my power brick didn't seal together totally, so I couldn't get the cable winding tabs to stay in, but no big deal... never used them anyways!
Great video! Thanks for taking the shock from the capacitor so future DIYers didn't have too! I couldn't believe it was just two wires within that fancy Apple cord.
Just did mine in about an hours time total- including getting the tools out and finding a few things.I also put white shrink wrap on both ends of the new cord to add a bit of strain relief. That way I don't have to replace it so soon again. I ordered two cords so I'll have one already the next time it dies. As a bonus I used the heat gun to help when splitting the two halves. That way mine came apparat easier and there wasn't any rough edges or damage.
+2204JCM Nice. Well done :) My sister's fiancé is using mine at the mo.
+2204JCM what do you mean by "splitting the two halves"? you mean opening the power supply only with a heat gun, in order to avoid cracking the clips, hence not using super glue?
Great repair tutorial! Except the test at the end is missing. But anyway: Good camera and lighting, well explained. No need for me though, as I own two of these still working without any fault for 7 years now. I really liked to see you fixing one.
I used this video to repair my a105 MacBook pro charger. Thanks for making this.
Excellent video! I just replaced my cord for $6.00, instead of spending a bunch of money on a computer cord that is ten year's old! And, it was fun to do. Good luck. Advice to add--be careful not to connect the new soldering dabs for the two wires, and be extra careful not to tear any of the board tape inside the box.
Thanks a lot. Not sure if I had an original Apple product or not, but the MagSafe wire was insulated only on the white line. In the cable, the wire carrying the "black" signal isn't insulated. The black insulation starts on the board, but stops after about an inch.
And of course, the white insulation started to break apart, and a beautiful short circuit happened between black and white lines.
That wouldn't look as nice, but it's certainly possible! When doing that I'd cut the braid and the core as different lengths (so one cable has a long braid and a short core, the other has a short braid and a long core). When soldering together, the two joints will be out of alignment so once the cable's taped up the joint will have a longer but slimmer profile.
Thanks. That looked like a pretty serious belt you got off those caps! Just finished fixing up a 2010 ebay MBP so will probably end up having to do this judging by all the reviews of the 'quality' of the Magsafe on the Apple site lol. Mine has 2 cables and not a plug so I'm hoping they used to build them better than they do now! I'll probably just cut the cable and solder the new end on with heatshrink though. Nice to see somebody giving them the finger about £85 for a replacement that barely lasts a year. Good work.
Thank you very much for this very informative and detailed video. The shop guy asked damn 100 $from me for a new one. You saved me all the money and gained some skills in electronic repair too.
Very good video. Just two comments: It would be easier to desolder/solder if you have some kind of support for the main structure (brick) and when desoldering cables is not good to use mechanical force, I know if from (bad) experiences, it's natural to attempt that but PCB's traces are so thin and can break very easily, just be patient and extra cautious about that part.
Watch out if opening the charger. It's not designed to be worked on, so there don't appear to be any discharge resistors across the input smoothing capacitor. This can store up to 350 volts DC and as you can see in the video it takes a LONG time to discharge itself, even two days isn't enough!
How to be safe then? What is the workaround to this problem i.e., how to discharge the capacitor?
@@fisnikkastrati837 yep, short it out like he did in the video as a precaution - always wise to do with big capacitors when taking things apart. If you have any slightly higher power resistors you could also use one of those to discharge slightly slower (nicer on the capacitor and not so sparky!)
Sounds like you may have short-circuited something in the adapter. Could be a stray strand of wire or blob of solder, could be that the metal shielding is touching something it's not supposed to.
T and L connectors are interchangeable. You need to get one from the correct size of power supply, though. If you have a 90W power supply fitted with a cable from a 65W power supply, the MacBook will think it's a 65W power supply because the chip that controls the charging is inside the connector, not the charger.
Searching for "magsafe repair" usually comes up with the goods. As mentioned in an earlier comment, T or L shape are interchangeable, but you'll want the correct wattage cable as the charging is controlled by the Magsafe plug itself.
I have a 45W Air charger. Is it OK to use a 60W replacement cable? Can't find a 45W one here in the UK with a T connector.
@@edwardcullen3251 T and L are interchangeable. I wouldn't use a 60W cable on a 45W charger as the circuitry in the plug will tell the MacBook that it can draw more than the power brick itself can safely provide.
Thanks man!
I took me about 10-15 minutes to repair my charger. A bit funnier than paying apple 90€ for a new charger!
However they decided to FILL my charger to the brim with silicone. Thanks a lot Apple! :P
Now I'll just have to order a few extra replacement cables so that i can repair my 3 other old broken MagSafe-chargers. :-)
As a bonus, I can upgrade my old MagSafe-chargers to MagSafe 2, so that I no longer need the annoying adapter that gets lost.
"To those who think Apple MagSafe connectors are useless: it's better than trying to repair a broken DC input jack on a laptop, which in many cases involve a total stripdown of the laptop just to get to the solder pads. Been there, done that"
Done that too, you are right!
Thanks for the video, would not have successfully replaced the charger without your help!!
I just did this in 2019, breaking it open as seen here was all i needed. Thanks
Thanks for the video. I honestly only watched the first few minutes and then took it from there but it was a very helpful start, particularly your method of popping apart the case. The soldering (removing old and re-installing new leads) went easier than anticipated; the holes on the mounting board stayed open and retained a little solder ring around them which helped the new solder grab easily. I also held the whole contraption down to my desktop edge with a large spring clamp so it was easier to pull down on the old wire with pliers (as I heated the solder) without it scooting around.
Thanks friend for posting this helpful DIY video, I used it in theory ( I didnt use a solder, I don't have it) and it turned out to be working as well! you saved me 150 bucks well at least I will save money until I get a new one and this still works. Greeting from Mexico city.
Thanks to your video I repaird my broken power supply. Cheers mate.
Very useful, thank you. Seems that the soldering iron is not hot enough. Also, I question your soldering method : I have learned and apply this method : heat the wire, melt the solder on the wire. From what I saw in the video you melt the solder on the iron itself: this leads to a much less strong solder because the wire itself may never reaches the solder melting temperature. Sorry for my english, not my language.
The wires are already tinned with solder which helps.
Your English is fantastic, better than the English used by many British people :)
There was some sort of class action lawsuit against them before they redesigned the connector, from what I've read if the old-style ones fail you can get them replaced for free. I don't know which countries that applies to though, and I doubt it applies to the new-style connectors.
Nice video, bud 👍🏻helped me a lot both on disassembly and assembling the thing back. Mine only had a broken piece of power cord that I just cut and soldered back - good as new 👌🏻
Even if the MacBook is out of warranty, try them. There's a comment further down from someone who did, plus I believe they'll exchange ones with duff "T-style" connectors, but I can't remember where I saw that.
Great method. You can also drip some methylated spirits along the seams to soften the glue to make a little easier to open it.
after watching this, I just decided to buy a new charger
+Sang Won Lee Don't give up as soon as it's a little bit complicated :)
+Dave Adriaanse yeah make first diagnose before judgment and make to save a money.
You are definitely right.
After having five or six of them go down (we have quite a few MBP at home and more at work), buying new ones sounds less attractive. We repair them in bulk.
yes me too
Hey,
Great tutorial!
Unfortunately I attempted to repair my charger before watching this video(I saw another video).
I cut the two crimp spade terminal connectors and solderd the tips of the cable directly to the board.
I would like to do the repair properly (don't worry I wont connect the charger until the job is complete and solderd in the PROPER way) - do you know what amperage are the crimp spade terminal connectors? that way I can order them on Ebay and repair the damn charger.
Thank you so much
I don't recall seeing spade terminals. Do you mean the bootlace ferrules on the end of the wires?
@@AintBigAintClever Precisely,
Thanks for the fast reply
@@yossefatia3536 I suspect it'll be more to do with the CSA of the wire than the current rating (which would be about 4.6A for the 85W charger). You might be better off getting an assortment.
Knew there would be a way inside this little beast. Thanks for the tips. My Retina MagSafeII was a little different and required a bit more "persuasion". Note, if you have ring extractor pliers these work quite well to open the seams as this type of pliers can be set to push out the jaws when you squeeze the grips. Very handy. These cases are pretty well glued together and an X-acto knife judiciously placed. opened the seams where brute force alone would have cracked the case sides. Also, the Retina supply uses an epoxy heat sink compound to bond the supply heat sink to the plastic case. Apple supplies are notorious for getting extremely hot when on full charge. Metal to plastic heat conduction is a pretty poor method for heat dissipation. Beware of your charger overheating after your repair or better yet, use some metal particle filled epoxy between the heat sink plate and the plastics side. I used epoxy also to glue the case back together as there were a few open cracks that epoxy can fill better than cyanoacrylate.
Great tutorial :) I think it's the best about MBP charger repair on YT. It's great to see it can be done without damaging whole the plastic cover! Thank you!
This is the best video to repair the Mac charger. my question is I got wire which is black and red. The cord from the charger is one wire is black and the other one is white with a green color tip of the wire. Is the red one goes with green one
This is the best video to repair the mac charger. I ordered mine from eBay. I'm little confused about the wire that I got. the wire in the charger is black and white the white one with green tip. Should I solder the red one where the green one placed.
**RockStar** Anyone who posts "HOW TO" videos on UA-cam ought to be forced to watch your video (this Video) before they are allowed to post. That was a seriously fantastic description how to properly complete a giant pain in the ass PATA project
Nice and slow through all the steps. I'm going to order the part on ebay today. My kind of video repair guide. Great job!!
the one you said are imposible will open same way if you pull rubber bung holding cable in and stick pliers in and force it open
Any tips are welcome when prying these bloody things open! :)
Very steady hands there...
Thanks for posting this! Successfully got through the entire repair following your clear instructions.
There are components within the plug itself. I don't know if there's a fuse in the power supply circuit. From what I've seen SMPSUs respond to overload either by shutting down until they're power-cycled (PC power supply) or burning out whatever shorted it (original Xbox power supply).
If the PSU is dead and turning the power off (in the case of a MacBook supply it could need to be off for DAYS to discharge itself) hasn't fixed it, I'd try tapping into the cable and checking the voltage there.
Once you open it, it doesn't want to stick back together. Especially the front part, where the wire comes out. You'll need some strong clue and a clamp, to make it hold, or just put some tape around it.
I just tried this - got the case open by using an x-acto knife to score along the seams to weaken the clips, then it snapped open fairly easily. BUT - when I got inside, the side of the PCB that you need to be able to solder on is GLUED with I-don't-know-what to the inside of the case. I tryed prying as much as I dared, but couldn't get it loose. My only problem is that the cat chewed on the cable and it has to be jiggled sometimes to start charging. I've always wanted a longer cable - so I think I'm just going to cut the cable and solder/ splice in the replacement cable with some heat shrink to cover it. If that fails - I guess apple is going to get 80 bucks from me. I'm not going to risk a cheap-o 3rd party power brick frying my MacBook Air.
I agree with the previous comments....after repair yours looks the best! I will do mine like yours and not butcher it up!
You may be able to discharge the extra 'charge' by leaving the cable plugged into the macbook -- meanwhile do not plug the charger into the wall receptacle (wall outlet/ plug-in). The charger won't be accepting any charge from the outlet, but will still be outputting charge to the macbook itself. Which should discharge the charger.. If that makes sense? Great vid.
Heat it well with a heat gun or a magic bag before trying to pry it. You may also use a vice to force cracking. If it does not pop right away, it's not hot enough.
Dc jacks in older laptops usually only break if you're being too rough with them. There are exceptions, but they're usually pretty solid. MagSafe cables on the other hand tend to self-destruct with time. I think many newer laptops are moving away from dc jacks directly soldered to the motherboard. All of the Lenovo laptops at the school I work at have plastic shrouds that hold the dc jack in position, then a detachable wire running to a connector on the motherboard. In this way there's no stress on the solder joints.
MagSafe would be fine if the cables were reinforced correctly. They're too cheaply made.
Sounds like Lenovo are using some common sense. I've covered a table in laptop parts in order to get at the DC jack's solder points before now, on more than one occasion. Much prefer MagSafe.
AintBigAintClever They are, in that regard. I got a laptop for free because of a broken dc jack, used it for a good year after I fixed it. I have been there. Thing is, I have never had to repair a dc jack on a laptop that wasn't already broken when I got it. Design/solder quality obviously varies between models and manufacturers. Magsafe is definitely a better conceptual design, but there are many run-of-the-mill laptop models that can go for a decade or more with the original power adapter and dc jack with normal use. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I hadn't heard of, or noticed, many power adapter issues with Apple's laptops prior to magsafe.
Thanks a lot for taking the effort on making this video and uploading it. Now I know how to fix mine. Much appreciated!
just got my magsafe cable fixed now, thanks mate!
Thank you from Indianapolis. Another charger fixed with your instruction. Typing this with superglue stuck to my fingertips while waiting for the clamped case to set.
Interesting. All that's embedded in the MagSafe plug, there are only two wires back to the power supply. It also means that the MagSafe leads aren't interchangeable between supply types, as a 60 watt PSU with a 45 watt lead will tell the MacBook that it's a 45 watt supply.
true. My wife should know more about the warranty. It broke and her response..."FIX IT!" I should of looked into the warranty first! Thank you for the great vid though!
Did that glue hold? What the hell I have never heard of super glue that works after more than 30 seconds of air exposure.
I soldered the two wires to the two power block ends but its not working. Chord does have connectivity. When I opened the case some aluminium tape ripped off, could this be the issues?
Nice. Very informative. Can we cut the wire in half and connect other cable? My charger is working fine but cable is about to break from middle
Yes. I've got one that's extended like that, with the wires soldered, individually heat-shrinked then more heat-shrink over the two.
I did a similar fix on my sister cheap Chinese laptop charger, But the wires were broken inside due to her wrapping the cable around the charger. cracked it open de-soldered the old wire and used some heavy duty speaker as a replacement with a new DC jack from Ebay.
Worked for me... Wasn't easy to open, not so easy to solder (a bit small), but it worked out.
(To Simón Torres) Applying some force is needed in order to remove the wires: they have a terminal lug with a sort of clip that fits inside the circuit. If you want to avoid force, you need to suck out most of the sulder and cut the clip before removing the wires.
Had difficulty opening adp60adv. Almost gave up. Apparently both plastic sides were glued to the metal shielding. I guess putting four screws is more expensive for Apple than the toxic glue.
I saw ur fingers to discharges the capacitor first before u did to discharges on metal screw :) ur video helpfully for the other's. nice video
I clamp the case together without glue, then add glue to the outside. CA glue will then wick into the gap. It prevents gluing your fingers.
I got off lightly, there was still plenty left to zap the screwdriver.
excellent great help, saved me a fortune.
many thanks fir taking the time to do the video.
top video, thanks. It's actually a very simple process but thanks for through everything with simplicity.
thank you for the tutorial, your procedure was a bit messy but practical thx
Just done it!! And I didn't blow it up when I plugged it in!!!!
Thanks.
Ah right yeah. The middle pin is sort of how the power adapter communicates with the macbook. It's a charge control pin that assists with changing the LED color, and also assists with switching the adapter off. No power will be output from any of the other pins until contact is made with the center Charge Control pin. This pin is also used to transfer additional information, such as the power type and serial number of the power supply.
thanks man ordered a new cord we will see how this coes, should be easy just a 2 wire job
ironically, the casing on my Asus laptop's power brick came apart on 3 of the 4 sides a month ago. I stuck some duct tape on along the length, and it's stayed together since.
Something to make this easier, not sure if it's been posted before, but rather than using long nose pliers to separate the case, I use circlip pliers. That way you can spread the case by squeezing the handles, rather than pulling them apart. Much more natural and controllable motion :)
would it have been easier to clip the wires once you had it open and connect the new leads there . still allowing you to secure the anti-pull in the slot.
Hi Sir, I saw your this UA-cam video regarding repairing Apple MagSafe Power adapater. This is excellent learning! Recently, my MacBook Pro's adapter (85W) stopped working after a spark while plugging in. I have successfully opened it. However, I'm unable to see any 'fuse' kind of component inside. Can you please help me what should I check so that I can try to fix the issue? Thanks for your guidance, Sir.
Hi Could AintBigAintClever please supplier a link to the trusted eBay seller for the cable - also how much would you expect a computer repair shop to cost to install - thanks in advance.
He was only talking about the right side connector itself right? You can still replace the cable, right?
Is that a capacitor you are warning about? If so, won’t it be charged for more than a few days?