Making a Laminated Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert
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- Опубліковано 2 лис 2024
- Making Zero Clearance Table Saw Inserts or Throat Plates using Laminate or Arborite materials will give long-lasting wear and can be replicated for a number of different tables saw blades like think kerf, full kerf and even dado blade widths in more common sizes.
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That laminate bit with the skews is ingenious. Love it.
I've been using a carbide tip knife to cut laminate for maybe 50 years. Small pieces to full sheets. Easy setup and quick. I also like using laminate on my work surfaces: easy clean up and stable. Thanks for multiple tips in one vid.
Nice work yet again. I never thought of laminating a zero clearance plate but the smooth surface it provides is excellent. Thank you 👍😎🇦🇺
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Hey Colin, great idea to laminate baltic birch plywood, should make a great throat plate. A tip for increasing safety and accuracy (not that yours wasn't, but thinking of less-experienced folks watching) would be to lower the blade below the table, turn off the saw, park the rip fence over the right edge of the plate, have a push stick to hold down the left edge firmly, start the saw and slowly raise the blade to cut the slot. Dropping it onto a spinning blade may be risky for some to get their fingers where they shouldn't, and also dropping it in off the rounded end may misalign it slightly until it's seated flat.
It appears the reason he did it that way was because the blade doesn't drop down far enough to fit under the uncut plate. So if you don't want to force it onto a spinning blade like he did, then some people swap the 10" blade for a standard 7-1/4 inch blade, THEN the can park the fence on top and wind it up. That make the initial cut, then they change back to 10" which will now fit in the first cut, and finish the cut to suit the 10" blade. My Bosch 4000 is one of the few saws the CAN drop a 10" blade deep enough to fit the uncut plate over.
@@frameriteairdrie578 Good tip on using the 7 1/4" blade, although keep in mind a 10" blade might cut a wider kerf. On the 10" not dropping below the table top, I've personally not seen a 10" saw where a 10" blade doesn't recede all the way, but then again I've not seen all saws. Plus his may have something up with the height adjustment, you never know.
@@JusBidniss Yes it recedes all the way from the top, but not deep enough to fit UNDER a half-inch plywood plate that doesn't have a cut in it. When researching my own, I saw a few videos where they had that problem.
@@frameriteairdrie578 Ah! That's very interesting! Thanks for that info!
I've also seen the suggestion to use a single 6" or 8" dado blade to start the cut through the blank, and then you finish with the 10" blade. It's the exact same idea as the 7-1/4" blade. It just depends on what you have available.
Colin! By Golly! I missed this video by three weeks! I believe they call that a senior moment! Excellent video. I used laminate for one of my steel router table tops years ago and fell in love with it. The wood glides soooooo easy across the top! I just finished another router lift that I've been working on. It came out very well and I LOVE having the lift adjustment accessible from the top! Best Wishes, Tom.
Started looking at building one only last weekend so very timely thank you
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
Great job. Nice and neat fitting plate. Like the use of the lament.
Laminate knife vs Linoleum knife. Thanks for that added bonus!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
I've just made one of these but I used a spare piece of flooring laminate the type that "click" together they are obviously hard wearing and as I have other pieces can be easily remade
Excellent video Colin, loved the bamboo skewer trick, ingeniously done 👍👍👍
Thanks for watching!
And for those of us with table saws that have a thin profile (the one with sheet metal and set screws) , what can we do? As in what material should we use that is about an 1/8 to 5/32 of an inch
Good idea to put the laminate over top of the plate making it more durable. 👌
And the bamboo skewers, brilliant mate. I'll definitely be remembering that one. 👍
Cheers.
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
EXCELLENT video - Thanks!.
I particularly like your method of using the hot glue to establish the height of the insert.
I've made my inserts out of 3/4 inch White PVC board, undercut routing the edge to set down into the opening (necessary on my old Craftsman table saw).
It's difficult to get the depth exact - but your hot glue method is the perfect solution.
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
I just use mdf. Use the original plate as a template to make copies on my router. Made 10 in about 20 minutes. Use them for dado stacks and blades of different thicknesses. Couple of pcs of aluminum tape and their absolutely level with the table top.
Great job Colin and a good tip on aligning the laminate sheet !
Cheers, Bram
You're welcome, Bram! Thanks for watching.
I’ve used MDF for inserts, I like the laminate on top. I don’t have any access to get laminate scraps. Thank for another great idea.
Your local countertop builder should have lots. Thanks for watching!
LOVE THAT HOT GLUE TRICK! AMAZING
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
That's good stuff Colin. I like the 1 - 3 ratio for the tape. GREAT tip! !! !!!
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
I think it was your best yet.
Thank You!
Very good Colin! Thank you for sharing.
My old craftsman needs one. Thanks for the vid and tips on leveling.
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
WIll this work with left over floor laminate ?
Very interesting
Shouldn't a throat plate be level with the table? My new Milwaukee table saw had the throat plate lower in the front and higher than the table in the back...and the manual says that is how it should be adjusted. Will I run into issues making it level?
I have a question. What is the point of making one? Does this one have any advantage over the one that came with the saw?
Very dangerous lowering the insert on to the blade. I had one grab - thew the insert at me (ruining it) , shattered the laminate around the blade slot - knocked 3 carbide teeth off the blade, and almost dragged my hand into the blade. Never again. The right way is to lower the blade, place the insert with the rip fence holding it down. Then raise the blade through the insert. You may have to rout away some material under the insert before placing it.
Great idea, and MUCH cheaper then the blank plates offered by some of the tool manufacturers and aftermarket sources. Question: In the initial jointing/planing of the ply, isn't the glue kind of rough on your knives?
Great job again. I have 1 question, it appeared the plywood blank had a slight bow in it. How does this affect the throat plate? Also, I watch other woodworking channels and programs on UA-cam and PBS. Others have talked about using double sided word working tape that is repositionable. I got mine at the Rockler store. Just a thought. Thanks again.
nice video Colin
Nice work and very help full all of your ideals are.
Thanks for watching!
Super idea. Thanks for the tip.
You're Welcome!
Very nice job done. The hot glue on tape is an ingenius solution.
Thanks as always.
Willy from Belgium.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
I've seen double-sided carpet tape used as well. Same idea.
Great video. Like the hot glue trick and the laminating method!
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
Nice video Colin! Thanks for sharing it with us.👍👌😎JP
Very enjoyable and informative vid Colin, thanks as always. I do have a worry though - you have a lot more experience of the table saw than I do but the one unalterable detail for me is the presence of the riving knife. I think you have mentioned about this in previous vids but I can't help feeling the necessity for the riving knife is not being stressed enough. Kickback can be life-changing! Sorry to preach mate, but I think it's important - after all, we take our lead from you! Cheers Colin and thanks again.
Mark McCluney He said at the end of the video that he was going to cut out the slot for the blade guard, which is attached to the riving knife. So, what's exactly your point? I agree with you on the importance of the riving knife, but he didn't say not to use it. He didn't use the riving knife in the video because it obviously cannot cut through wood, so the first cut has to be done without it; then after you cut a slot for it you can use the table saw with the knife on
He mentioned needing to do this at the end of the video.
Yes, I was disappointed that Colin didn't do the complete build by showing how to cut an accommodation for riving knife or spliter. Every throat plate insert build on UA-cam neglects this feature so we are stuck trying to make a saw kerf at the back of the insert very dangerously. Either that or nothing.
Leonard Gump I use a jigsaw to make that last cut for the irving knife
As mentioned, a jigsaw would be a quick option for adding the extra space you need for the riving knife. Thanks for watching.
How's she goin'? That was very nicely done Colin!!! Great idea to have the laminate on the insert and the alignment of the leading and trailing edge is a great tip. Thanks for posting!!!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
I have a Baltic Birch insert.. it's fine, but I like this better. I'm going to try to get some scrap laminate. Phenolic material is available, but man, pricey.
Thanks for useful tips & headache saver ideas
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
I see lots of people making these. What is the advantage of such an insert over the original?
i have some flooring i will use for my throat plates my plate is one of the thin ones
I've used a piece of laminate floor , just about the right thickness and worked well.
Thanks for watching!
Good and useful as ever. Nice work
Thanks for watching!
Damn just doube tape to hold the template and the piece of wood, never thought it would work, I definitely need to try this out
Very Cool an thanks for the knowledge Sir !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
I wish you had shown how to make a slot for the riving knife to poke through. How do I do that?
Flip the insert over length ways so its up side down, and raise the blade through it.
Bryn Roebuck, ah, that makes sense. Thank you!
Don’t see how that works?
@@wiltonguilloryjr8763 On my saw the blade is offset length ways in the table aperture to take account of the riving knife. So when I flip it over length ways i can cut out the section for the riving knife. May be I should do my own video!!
Bryn's method will work on some saw. You can also cut out the extra space needed for the riving knife with a jigsaw.
Thanks for the video, I need one for my saw, and why are there 14 dislikes? Some laminate protection society I don't know about?
lol ... Thanks for watching!
Hey! Watch that. I donate every year to the NSPL - the National Society for the Protection of Laminate. NOT! 😆
Must be a plastic straw thing.
Great once again ☺
Thank You!
That last bit could have moved the fence over on top of the plate for the cit out.
Nice one Colin, what do you make for when you need angle cuts?
I have one for each angle cut I make regularly. 45 22.5, 40
Just what Marshall said. Make one each for all the angles you cut regularly.
@@knecht105 this is yet another good reason to make a durable template - make one for vertical cuts, more for angles, and even more for common dado sizes. Eventually they may need to be replaced so you break out the template and go.
I appreciate your videos. I cringed when I saw you cut the bottom of the insert by holding the front down and letting the back down slowly. I wrongly pushed one I was making down with my hand, thinking it was safe since the blade will not come out the top since the blade is fully down. My insert was kicked out and drug my hand over the retracted blade. 1/2 deep cut and 10 stitches. Happen ed so fast I didn't realize I was cut till I looked at my bloody palm. Just a warning to folks.
Wow, wish I could do that.
Robert Langley you can...........
Sure you can/
Why did they make the insert holes with rounded ends? If they made them square or even with a 45 degree point, inserts would be a lot easier to make,
The hot glue was a good idea. I don't have a hot glue gun, I think one could use a dab of JB Weld paste instead.
The title was a bit confusing. I read laminated as in plastic lamination. Maybe better to call it just laminate zero clearance.. But great vid, thanks!
What about the back pin to keep the plate from lifting up?
It's never been an issue for me, but if the plate lifting is for you, you could add a back pin.
I've seen people put a brad nail into the end of the insert for this purpose. I'm not sure, but I don't get the impression you need a whole lot to keep it still depending on how snug the insert fits.
I've got the same hot glue gun. Thanks for sharing Colin.
You're Welcome!
I always enjoy your videos and the margin of safety that you always follow; however, this time you left a bit to be desired. As several others have commented, lowering your new table saw insert onto a running blade is a bad idea. That saw blade is turning at about 110 MPH and can propel the board at that speed toward your head in a split second. Putting on a smaller blade and trapping the insert under your fence as you raise the blade up is the only safe way to accomplish this. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Thumbs down, for showing people the incorrect way to run a blade through a zero clearance plate. Use your rip fence to hold the zero clearance plate while your running the blade up through it. If you need to use your piece of scrap wood to hold it down tighter, clamp it to the rip fence. With your technique, one of these days your going to get a throat plate down your throat :)