NCCR Tutorials: Showa Big Piston Fork Service EBR 1190

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  • Опубліковано 10 вер 2024

КОМЕНТАРІ • 21

  • @norseman5041
    @norseman5041 2 місяці тому

    I believe I was the first Norwegian to own a EBR 1190RX, but then again, I live in the US ;-) She is still in my garage against all odds. A trip to Kentucky in August 2018 nearly left us both unrepairable. Thanks to NCCR overseas, I rebuilt the bike, and it is again carving the back roads of Ohio and the Kentucky Appalachian.

  • @user-ux1sf5vo1e
    @user-ux1sf5vo1e 11 місяців тому +1

    This video was very helpful, the other videos were somewhat misleading with oil fill with cartridge out. It worked better for me with cartridge installed despite the time for bleeding the system. Thank you!

  • @anderskretschmer6405
    @anderskretschmer6405 Рік тому

    Thank you so much! I have the same fork in my 2017 Street Triple rs and I was in despair on how to do anything with the leaking simmerrings. Thanks a lot!!

  • @ebr-fan1117
    @ebr-fan1117 3 роки тому

    Another great video production from the team at NCCR! Thank you very much.

  • @SchweissfachMarc
    @SchweissfachMarc Місяць тому

    Was ein klasse Video! Vielen Dank euch zwei :)

  • @aaronromero6982
    @aaronromero6982 Рік тому +1

    the best video that i saw thank you very much help me a lot

  • @daveemmerson3733
    @daveemmerson3733 Рік тому

    Brilliant video thank you

  • @johnweber446
    @johnweber446 2 роки тому

    Very in depth report on the Showa Big Piston fork, thank you! I have this fork on four of my motorcycles and one of them needs the fork seals replaced, a 2012 Honda CBR1000RR. My only point of confusion before tackling this job is the fork cap installation, a critical item since it contains the adjusting screws for rebound and compression damping. My Honda service manual does not mention anything about fully opening the rebound and compression screws before removing the fork cap, just says to remove the cap. It does mention removing all preload before disassembly.
    When reinstalling the fork cap, the manual simply says to screw the cap down against the rod end until it just touches and then tighten the lock nut. It seems like it would be easy to mess up the preset rebound and compression settings you already had setup before disassembling the fork. Maybe I'm overthinking this, any thoughts?

    • @SenoirDude
      @SenoirDude 7 місяців тому

      To me it makes sense to NOT re-assemble fork cap with adjusters screwed fully out because it can increase the risk of breaking the adjusters later on.
      Removal:
      1. Undo preload, fork cap compression and rebound.
      2. Remove fork cap.
      3. Carry out the oil replacement procedure, get rid of air etc
      When building forks back up and you get to the point before putting fork cap on damper assembly.
      1. Screw the fork cap adjusters all the way in (clockwise) from fully out, counting the turns so you know full range (does it match the service manual specs).
      2. Rotate the adjusters back out if needed, to match the manual. If you know the max range should be 10 turns, but have found 12, back it out 2.
      3. The fork cap adjusters should be at their most screwed in in terms of the range in the manual, at this point.
      4. Lightly / carefully screw the fork cap onto damping assembly.
      5. Lightly / carefully bring the lock nut up to meet it, but don't tighten.
      6. Unscrew the fork cap adjusters 2-3 whole turns.
      7. Tighten the damper assembly lock nut (should be safe now the adjusters are further out).
      8. Unscrew the fork cap adjusters so they are in the middle of your range from earlier.
      9. Carry out the rest of the process to re-assemble.
      **If you fit the cap to the rod with the adjusters fully backed out, there is the risk you bottom out the cap on the rod.
      Then later, on the bike, the fork cap adjusters have no way of being undone because they are fully wound out already. But cant screw in because bottomed out.
      This is how the Showa cap adjusters get broken, trying to turn them clockwise from fully out but its already bottomed out.
      At least with middle of range, when back on the bike, you have some adjuster thread to undo them "fully" and then can see if screwing them in fully you get the full range still, or uh-oh they bottom out after 3 turns.
      Once re-assembled, you can carefully try the adjusters by undoing them fully and then doing them up fully.
      Does the range count still match the manual eg 10 turns. If so, happy days, can adjust as per your preferred settings / standard etc
      eg From fully in, back out 4 or whatever.

  • @jasonbernhardsen9286
    @jasonbernhardsen9286 2 роки тому

    Do you have a parts list for this? I can’t get the parts from Buell, need to go aftermarket and no one seems to have them.

    • @NCCRSweden
      @NCCRSweden  2 роки тому

      We have usually all parts in stock. NCCR.se

  • @MrGeorgeisonit
    @MrGeorgeisonit Рік тому

    *first used on the zx6r

  • @HORNET6
    @HORNET6 2 роки тому

    why not oil fill and then install the piston and rod assembly?

    • @NCCRSweden
      @NCCRSweden  2 роки тому

      Yes, nothing wrong with that, we have said already in the comment. 👍

  • @scottallen1228
    @scottallen1228 2 роки тому

    Were can I get fork seals and bushings for EBR1190RX

    • @NCCRSweden
      @NCCRSweden  2 роки тому +1

      From NCCR or in the US from Chaz Aagaard AMF in Janesville

    • @scottallen1228
      @scottallen1228 2 роки тому

      Thank u very much

  • @lowtail90
    @lowtail90 3 роки тому

    nice video . i have a 2009 xb12ss with a leaking fork seal . can i use this working method . Gr Ab .

    • @NCCRSweden
      @NCCRSweden  3 роки тому

      No it’s different. But there we have made a video as well. Please check out ua-cam.com/video/BOVoZ9s14RA/v-deo.html

    • @lowtail90
      @lowtail90 3 роки тому

      thanks for the quick info Gr Ab @@NCCRSweden