Can you clarify how long can you keep the DRY fabric with mordant in a paper or ziplock bag in a cool dry place? You said “a few months if they’re dry” but he text said up to 1 year.
There's a type of Aluminum for eco dyeing which is sold at hardware stores and its used for acid loving plants like hydrangeas so I think the water could be tipped on the soil around those plants?
That's a good pointer. Thanks! I'll look into that and get my facts straight for future videos. I really want the waste water to be useful and not harm the environment. Appreciate you!
@@TextileIndiei meán if you reuse the water a few times the aluminium is supposed to stick to the fibres so it should just be water at the end. Just reuse the water. Maybe keep an ó cloth to soak up the leftover mordant out of the water.
I hope this isn’t a stupid question. I do all I can to stay away from consuming anything with aluminum and although we’re not consuming this mordant, I’m wondering if using this in clothing leaves any residual that could potentially be absorbed into the body? I’m so cautious of toxic heavy metals and am just wondering what you think about it.
That is a good question, its good to be aware of what we put on or near our skin. However, that's defiantly outside my expertise, so I'm just not sure. My initial thought was that since we're talking linen and cotton and those garments will be laundered the chemicals probably wash away - but metals are a tricky topic. I did a search and the Google didn't serve up a definitive answer either.
Bran bath and aluminum acetate bath are two different types of mordanting baths used in dyeing cotton and linen fibers. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages. A bran bath is a natural mordant made from wheat bran, which contains tannins that help to fix natural dyes onto the fiber. The advantage of using a bran bath is that it is a natural and gentle mordant that does not damage the fiber or affect the color of the dye. Additionally, bran is easily available and relatively inexpensive. On the other hand, an aluminum acetate bath is a chemical mordant that is used to fix synthetic dyes onto the fiber. The advantage of using an aluminum acetate bath is that it produces more consistent and vibrant colors compared to natural mordants. However, it can be more expensive and may require additional safety precautions due to the use of chemicals. In conclusion, the advantage of using a bran bath is that it is a natural and gentle option that is easy to access and does not damage the fiber or affect the color of the dye. However, aluminum acetate may be preferred in certain situations where more consistent and vibrant colors are desired.
Wheat bran and aluminum acetate (different then aluminum sulfate), work together on plant fibers to prepare the fabric to absorb as much pigment as possible. You don't have to use wheat bran.
Of course, you can do anything you want. But scouring is very important to remove oils, wax, and other substances coating the fibers. The dye will absorb more evenly and effectively if the fabric is prepared.
Thank you for this tutorial. You explain the steps so thoroughly. I want to use 100% cotton muslin to imprint with fresh flowers with stems on for the design. Would the muslin be considered natural fabric and would this type of mordant preparation work for that?
Thank you for the information! I saw a clip on Facebook of pounding flowers onto cloth and the ones that had tried it, then washing the cloth the color didn't stick! One person had mentioned this process and that's how I stumbled upon your very through video! Thank you!
It can cause skin dryness, irritation, and inflammation, and some percentage of people will be allergic to it - at least, that's what Healthline.com tells me! 😂Since I spend a lot of time with different substances and materials, I'm probably over-cautious.
When reusing a mordant bath, it is generally recommended to heat the bath back up to the required temperature again before using it. This is because the mordant solution may have cooled down and lost some of its effectiveness during storage. The required temperature will depend on the specific mordant being used, as well as the type of fiber being mordanted. For example, aluminum acetate mordant requires a temperature of around 180°F (82°C), while a tannin mordant may only require a temperature of around 140°F (60°C). To reheat the mordant bath, you can simply heat it on the stove over low to medium heat until it reaches the desired temperature. It's important to avoid boiling the mordant bath, as this can cause it to break down and lose its effectiveness. It's also important to note that each time a mordant bath is reused, it may become weaker and less effective at fixing the dye onto the fiber. For best results, it's generally recommended to prepare fresh mordant baths for each new project or dyeing session.
If you are mordanting plant fibers alum acetate works best because it sticks better to the fibers. But I have done alum sulphate as well, it's not quite as light-fast or wash fast over time.
Hmmm, I've never used hemp yarn, but I did a little digging. Maybe one of these suggestions will help. Thanks for the questions, I'll have to check out hemp - as a fiber. Wash the yarn: One of the simplest methods to soften hemp yarn is to wash it in warm water with a gentle soap or detergent. You can soak the yarn in the water for 15-20 minutes, then rinse it thoroughly and hang it to dry. This can help to remove any remaining stiffening agents and soften the fibers. Use fabric softener: Another option is to use a fabric softener in the wash cycle or during a rinse cycle to soften the yarn. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for the fabric softener. Use a vinegar solution: You can also try soaking the yarn in a vinegar solution to help soften the fibers. Mix one part vinegar with three parts water and soak the yarn for 30 minutes before rinsing it thoroughly and drying it. Add heat: Another method is to use heat to soften the yarn. You can put the yarn in a dryer on a low heat setting or lay it flat and gently iron it on a low heat setting to help soften the fibers. Knit with it: Finally, sometimes simply knitting with the yarn can help to soften it over time as the fibers are worked and handled.
Great question. If you are going to keep the fabric damp so that it absorbs dyes or liquids more readily when you actually start the dyeing process then storing the fibers in an airtight bag in the fridge keeps them from mildewing. If you leave them out they have a tendency to start to smell sour and mildew.
@@TextileIndie thanks a lot! So this is not a mandatory step but more of conservation tip ? I can start the dying process right after whitout putting the fabric in the fridge?
@@georgeabitbol386 yes it is more if you have mordanted and do not have time to use that day. But you can also dry on the line and then put away to use another time. Just remember to put a note with it as to what you have mordanted it with. When you want to dye then soak your cloth in water for at least 2-5 hrs so the fibres is fully wet to get even dyeing.
No, I have never used ocean water for dyeing. I've read that its possible and know that its done, but I don't know how it impacts dyes or changes the process. If you find information on it I'd love to hear about it!
Can you clarify how long can you keep the DRY fabric with mordant in a paper or ziplock bag in a cool dry place? You said “a few months if they’re dry” but he text said up to 1 year.
If the fabric is dry if can sit for a year, but if it's wet in the fridge no more than 7 days or it might mold.
There's a type of Aluminum for eco dyeing which is sold at hardware stores and its used for acid loving plants like hydrangeas so I think the water could be tipped on the soil around those plants?
That's a good pointer. Thanks! I'll look into that and get my facts straight for future videos. I really want the waste water to be useful and not harm the environment. Appreciate you!
@@TextileIndiei meán if you reuse the water a few times the aluminium is supposed to stick to the fibres so it should just be water at the end. Just reuse the water. Maybe keep an ó cloth to soak up the leftover mordant out of the water.
Where to get the aluminum acetate? I’ve been looking online and don’t see it in local stores
This is a good source:
maiwa.com/collections/alum-acetate
I hope this isn’t a stupid question. I do all I can to stay away from consuming anything with aluminum and although we’re not consuming this mordant, I’m wondering if using this in clothing leaves any residual that could potentially be absorbed into the body? I’m so cautious of toxic heavy metals and am just wondering what you think about it.
That is a good question, its good to be aware of what we put on or near our skin. However, that's defiantly outside my expertise, so I'm just not sure. My initial thought was that since we're talking linen and cotton and those garments will be laundered the chemicals probably wash away - but metals are a tricky topic. I did a search and the Google didn't serve up a definitive answer either.
What is the advantage of using a bran bath over just an aluminum acetate bath?
Bran bath and aluminum acetate bath are two different types of mordanting baths used in dyeing cotton and linen fibers. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages.
A bran bath is a natural mordant made from wheat bran, which contains tannins that help to fix natural dyes onto the fiber. The advantage of using a bran bath is that it is a natural and gentle mordant that does not damage the fiber or affect the color of the dye. Additionally, bran is easily available and relatively inexpensive.
On the other hand, an aluminum acetate bath is a chemical mordant that is used to fix synthetic dyes onto the fiber. The advantage of using an aluminum acetate bath is that it produces more consistent and vibrant colors compared to natural mordants. However, it can be more expensive and may require additional safety precautions due to the use of chemicals.
In conclusion, the advantage of using a bran bath is that it is a natural and gentle option that is easy to access and does not damage the fiber or affect the color of the dye. However, aluminum acetate may be preferred in certain situations where more consistent and vibrant colors are desired.
Wonderful test. The results will go into my dyeing journal. I am new to this, and your experiment added much information to my how-to guide.
That's fantastic!
There.are.so.many.variables.in.eco.printing.that.I.do.not.care.to.be.so.precise.in.numbers.
What the wheat bran do? I only have alum...
Wheat bran and aluminum acetate (different then aluminum sulfate), work together on plant fibers to prepare the fabric to absorb as much pigment as possible. You don't have to use wheat bran.
Is scouring necessary?
Of course, you can do anything you want. But scouring is very important to remove oils, wax, and other substances coating the fibers. The dye will absorb more evenly and effectively if the fabric is prepared.
Thank you for this tutorial. You explain the steps so thoroughly. I want to use 100% cotton muslin to imprint with fresh flowers with stems on for the design. Would the muslin be considered natural fabric and would this type of mordant preparation work for that?
Yes, cotton muslin is a natural fiber, and this preparation works great.
Thank you for the information!
I saw a clip on Facebook of pounding flowers onto cloth and the ones that had tried it, then washing the cloth the color didn't stick! One person had mentioned this process and that's how I stumbled upon your very through video! Thank you!
You're welcome. How did your project go?
this is very helpful! thank you for this tutorial.
would this work for dyeing sisal fibers for weaving!?
I haven't tried that myself, but if it's a natural plant fiber, it should work.
How about avoiding mordants that can be toxic and just use a dirty pot.. ??
Your mordant job will end up being weaker and not as reliable if you go that route.
This was so helpful! Thank you so much!
Aluminium acetate is safe for skin I’m pretty sure
It can cause skin dryness, irritation, and inflammation, and some percentage of people will be allergic to it - at least, that's what Healthline.com tells me! 😂Since I spend a lot of time with different substances and materials, I'm probably over-cautious.
When reusing the mordant bath, do you reheat on the stove to the required temperature again?
When reusing a mordant bath, it is generally recommended to heat the bath back up to the required temperature again before using it. This is because the mordant solution may have cooled down and lost some of its effectiveness during storage.
The required temperature will depend on the specific mordant being used, as well as the type of fiber being mordanted. For example, aluminum acetate mordant requires a temperature of around 180°F (82°C), while a tannin mordant may only require a temperature of around 140°F (60°C).
To reheat the mordant bath, you can simply heat it on the stove over low to medium heat until it reaches the desired temperature. It's important to avoid boiling the mordant bath, as this can cause it to break down and lose its effectiveness.
It's also important to note that each time a mordant bath is reused, it may become weaker and less effective at fixing the dye onto the fiber. For best results, it's generally recommended to prepare fresh mordant baths for each new project or dyeing session.
Thank you for the inspiration and sharing 😍👍 so helpful info 😄👏❤️ thank you again 😊
I'm so glad you found it helpful and inspiring😊
very good and simply presented.tks.
Glad you liked it!
Your video was very clear. Thank you. As a new comer, this seems over my head. I'll need to watch this a few more times. Thank you again.
Absolutely! There are lots of variables to keep track of. Have fun with it!
Dying with bamboo leaves
I would love to hear how that goes. Did you grow the bamboo, or purchase it from a natural dye supplier?
For reusing the mordant, did you say to add 15% or 50% of the weight of the next batch of fabric ?!
Thank you
It would be 50% of the fabric weight.
@@TextileIndie thank you kindly 🧡
Hey🤍I am struggling to source wheat bran. Is there an alternative you would recommend?
You can use rice bran or oat bran.
I heard one instructor uses oak galls- you grind them up with mortar & pestle before weighing it out. that's what I plan to use.
Thanks for the tutorials, very clear and informative!
Glad you like them!
can i use alum sulphate the same way as the acetate powder?
If you are mordanting plant fibers alum acetate works best because it sticks better to the fibers. But I have done alum sulphate as well, it's not quite as light-fast or wash fast over time.
I only have Alum. Could I use this?
Definitely worth a try. It's a little harder on plant fibers, but should work fine.
❤
How meta mordanting is done ?
Can you explain your question a little more?
Any advice on how to soften hemp yarn for knitting? Thank you
Hmmm, I've never used hemp yarn, but I did a little digging. Maybe one of these suggestions will help. Thanks for the questions, I'll have to check out hemp - as a fiber.
Wash the yarn: One of the simplest methods to soften hemp yarn is to wash it in warm water with a gentle soap or detergent. You can soak the yarn in the water for 15-20 minutes, then rinse it thoroughly and hang it to dry. This can help to remove any remaining stiffening agents and soften the fibers.
Use fabric softener: Another option is to use a fabric softener in the wash cycle or during a rinse cycle to soften the yarn. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for the fabric softener.
Use a vinegar solution: You can also try soaking the yarn in a vinegar solution to help soften the fibers. Mix one part vinegar with three parts water and soak the yarn for 30 minutes before rinsing it thoroughly and drying it.
Add heat: Another method is to use heat to soften the yarn. You can put the yarn in a dryer on a low heat setting or lay it flat and gently iron it on a low heat setting to help soften the fibers.
Knit with it: Finally, sometimes simply knitting with the yarn can help to soften it over time as the fibers are worked and handled.
Hi thanks for this video! I have a question though, why putting the fabric in the fridge? Thanks a lot
Great question. If you are going to keep the fabric damp so that it absorbs dyes or liquids more readily when you actually start the dyeing process then storing the fibers in an airtight bag in the fridge keeps them from mildewing. If you leave them out they have a tendency to start to smell sour and mildew.
@@TextileIndie thanks a lot! So this is not a mandatory step but more of conservation tip ? I can start the dying process right after whitout putting the fabric in the fridge?
@@georgeabitbol386 yes it is more if you have mordanted and do not have time to use that day. But you can also dry on the line and then put away to use another time. Just remember to put a note with it as to what you have mordanted it with. When you want to dye then soak your cloth in water for at least 2-5 hrs so the fibres is fully wet to get even dyeing.
Do u have any experience with ocean water for dying?
No, I have never used ocean water for dyeing. I've read that its possible and know that its done, but I don't know how it impacts dyes or changes the process. If you find information on it I'd love to hear about it!
@@TextileIndie ok nice! I will investigate a bit more then. I will keep you posted… but will be something for spring time i guess :-)
It was really useful. Thanks a lot
So glad it was helpful!
thank you
You're welcome!