Thank you! I love this way of preparing fabric. Every other way I researched on how to prepare material involved methods that I felt were not natural or healthy.
You are most welcome, Donna 🤎 It is a super way to stay fully plant-based in your mordant prep in the dye studio. You can also try a tannin mordant too which is also plant-based. You can watch a few videos on tannins in my Mordant playlist 😊
Thanks for the video, your channel is a great resource. What was the ratio of soy milk to water that you used and is there a science to how much milk you should use in relation to the amount of fabric you're soaking? What I got was: - 5 quarts water: 1 quarts milk - soak prewashed fabric for 12 hours - Take it out, wring and spin it out, then dry it. Repeat this twice more. - store fabric for at least a week before dying it - soak it in water for an hour directly before dying it. Thanks again for your videos they're very helpful :) [Edited to show full instructions for others]
Hi Abi - many thanks for reaching out and welcome to Color Quest! Seems like you got the gist - way to go 😉 The ratio is 1:5 - 1 part soy milk to 5 parts water. So in this video, I use 1 quart of soy milk. You can pre-treat up to 15 oz of fiber with this volume of soy milk solution. One note - the last step you mention above is a soak in water only (not soy milk) before you put the fiber into the dye pot. We always want to use wet fiber for dyeing as this 'opens' fibers up to better receive color.
This is super interesting and I'd love to try it. I'm curious about why the fabrics go through the process 3 times? Is it to ensure complete coverage? If so, could that be achieved by leaving them in longer for a single round? Thank you so much for sharing your tips!!
So happy to hear you enjoyed the video, Vicki! It is a great plant-based option for making a homemade binder for natural dyeing. You can certainly shorten the process by only soaking it one time for longer. Just make sure to move it around so you are getting full coverage on the fiber. A three time soak is just adding extra potential binding layers, but not a requirement.
Learning from experience of doing this same thing with the soy milk solution, I’ve learned that submerging the fabric into the soy solution results in blotchy application. You can’t tell it’s happened until you’ve dyed with it already and see that the color is not even. That’s why John Marshall suggests using some tool (can’t remember the name of it) to stretch the fabric on and then paint it on evenly. That’s what I’m trying to research…Is what is that tool called and how to make a diy one. I don’t want anymore blotchy dye results.
Many thanks for sharing about the potential for blotchy results with soy milk when simply soaking it in a bucket. I've also experienced this, but I personally like the effect. John Marshall is an amazing artist & teacher with vast experience, so he would have the best advice on this as you mentioned. They are called Shinsi bamboo stretchers or dowels. I've seen them used in a workshop I attended, but have never used them personally. Hope you can find some for smooth soy milk applications - good luck!
Great question, Janelle. The volume of soy milk binder is connected to the weight of fiber (WOF). In this video, I'm using 1 liter of soy milk + 5 liters of water as the binding bath. You can treat up to 15 oz (~400 grams) of fiber in this ratio of soy milk+water bath. You might not want to use more fiber as the soy milk binder won't adequately cover the surface of the textile.
Dear Margaret❤ thank you so much for this great tutorial and that you answered so many of our questions, this is so helpful! thank you!! 🥰🥰 I also have 2 questions :) I have often read that after mordanting you should rinse the fabric under clear water before putting it in the dyebath, is that true? Does it make sense to fix the color with vinegar/salt? Can I heated the fabric in the dye liquor after mordanting with soy milk? Thanks again for the help!🫶🏻🌸
Hello and thank you for being part of the Color Quest family! I'm so happy you are enjoying the videos and having fun in your dye studio. As with most things, there are many different methods that people use, so you will see variations in processes. In general, it is great to rinse fibers after working with a mordant or dye so you remove any molecules that have not adhered to the fiber. You also always want to work with wet fiber, so you will want to soak your pre-treated fiber in water if it is already dried before putting it into the dye pot. I personally don't use vinegar or salt as a 'fixative', but I see that others may suggest that. For me, vinegar is a color modifier as an acidic element and salt can help with ionization in certain processes (rust dyeing, for example). However, if you find a recipe that calls for either one, feel free to try it out. I have seen salt recommended for lichen dyeing for instance, so I've definitely used it there as recommended. For your last question, it is best to always let your soy milk treated fiber have some time to cure, so let it dry and sit before using it in a dye bath. Some will say it is better if it cures for at least 1+ week, so if you have that much time, great. You can also get binding effects with a much shorter curing time, so experiment and see what works best for you. Have fun!
Was a very informative video, thank you! I'm curious about how to store the soy milk, can it be refrigerated during the process. I mean after the first 12 hour soak, can the milk be refrigerated and used to soak/dip the fabrics accordingly...thank you
You are most welcome, Shilpa 🌼 I have kept soy milk in the fridge or a cool place to use for multiple dips for many days. It will start to curdle, break apart and smell 'off' when it is time to throw it away. I've seen soy milk last for 1-2 weeks, but sometimes less, so keep it airtight if possible and cold. In this video, I used the same soy milk mixture for all 3 dips. Best of luck!
I have found that my soy milk solution 'curdles' by the 3rd dip, so I've not stored it afterwards. In smaller batches, I've kept the solution in the fridge longer, ie. 1+ week, and although it thickens up, I have diluted it again with water. The colder you can keep it, the longer it seems to last.
Hi Margaret, thank you for the step by step video! I watched the others people video, paint with soy milk and dye the fabric afterward, the soy milk painting area will getting darker than the fabric. So, if i soap the fabric into soy milk for mordant, which mean my whole fabric will be get darker colour than usual, is that correct? Thank you
Hi there - you are most welcome! Yes, you are correct. If you soak the entire fiber in soy milk as a binder, the whole piece will get darker in most dye matter. You can use soy milk as a kind of 'paint' to make patterns on a piece of fiber by just applying the soy milk in the places you want to have the design. I recently posted a video about using soy milk this way. You can find it in my video library from a few weeks ago and also in the 'eco-printing' playlist on my channel. Check it out!
Oops...didn't realize I was so lucky 🙃 Just give it a really good squeeze and you will be fine. May take a bit longer to dry with a few more drips, but if you have an outdoor line, that may be your best bet 🌼
I was really annoyed not to see spin only as an option on my LG machine and thought no way! So I looked in the manual and the way you access it is: turn on the machine but don't touch anything, then just press the Spin or Spin Speed button (not a physical button just like a touch pad). That lets you cycle through the spin only cycle speed you want. Hope that works for you! 😁
@@jpb1238 I will look but when I turn on my washer a setting is already selected and I turn the k on to what I want but I'll look in the manual or Google it! Thank you!
@@jpb1238 I just Googled it and I do have a spin only!! I have a rinse and spin and if I turn off the extra rinse button it will only spin! For all out there I have a Maytag Bravos XL
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest I'm an artist and retired professor from University and my class was" Materials and technics"...well well well...I discovered the paper ecoprint...and soon the fiber ecoprint...Hughes to you!
@@cristinapape How wonderful! I would have loved to take your class in school 😊 It's amazing to keep exploring to find new amazing ways to create 🌼🤎🌼 Hugs back at ya!!
Great question - yes, you always want to soak your fiber in water before putting it in a dye pot. It helps remove oxygen and open fibers up to better receive dye 🤎
Would it be alright to keep it in the refrigerator? I live in a hot climate, It was day 2 for me, and when I went to remove the fabric, the soy milk solution has curdled.
Yes, of course! I've also had it curdle on me, so definitely store in the coolest space you have, and feel free to shorten the time the fiber is in the soy milk as well.
Hi Margaret.. brand new here 😊 I love this video & love that you offer a soy milk alternative to alum. Question … after my project is complete, I want to do a sodium carbonate soak. What is the ‘recipe’ meaning sodium carbonate ratio to water ? I’ll be using about 15 is of fabric…. Thank You so much! 🤗😊
Hi Kimberly - welcome to Color Quest! So happy to hear the video is helpful 🌼 Two questions for you: what is your dye matter and what are you trying to do specifically with the sodium carbonate (aka soda ash)? We typically measure mordants and modifiers (like sodium carbonate, aka soda ash) by the weight of fiber (WOF) not the volume of water. Since sodium carbonate is a relatively strong alkaline, you will not need much to shift the color of a pH sensitive dye source. Depending on what you are trying to do, I would start with only a pinch ~ 1/8 of a teaspoon. You can always increase this if needed up to 1% WOF, for example.
You are very welcome! Actually, the only time there was an actual wash was on the first run (with detergent). This is used to clean the textile only. The other times in the washing machine after each soak in the soy milk was for a quick SPIN only - no wash (minutes 6:22 and 7:48) It was to help 'fling' off the excess soy milk to help with faster air drying. You don't want to wash off the soy milk that you are trying to set into the fiber 😊
Hi! Love your videos so much, was wondering if it’s absolutely necessary to prewash the fabrics / if I can hand wash instead of using a machine? My only laundry machine access is at the laundromat and so it’s a bit harder to machine wash for me. Thank you so much!!
Hi Sophie - thanks for joining the Color Quest family 🌼 While you will always want to wash your fibers well before mordant/dye process, you can do this on the stove-top too 😊. I have many videos where I wash/scour this way. Of course, you are always welcome to hand wash if that is best for you. You may want to invest in soda ash/washing soda or something like Synthrapol for extra cleaning power.
What a thoughtful question - thank you. I'm afraid I don't have an answer for you, though. It would be best to discuss this with a physician who is familiar with soy allergy and how it manifests. There are other plant-based binders in tannin, so you might look to those as an alternative to soy. I have many videos using tannin as a mordant, so go check those out 😊
Yes, I often just use my washing machine to clean my fiber as opposed to a stovetop scour with soda ash. Some fibers may need a deeper clean so you can always scour instead. I recently bought washing soda that you can put in the washing machine if you want the extra soda ash cleanse.
Hi margaret! Im so happy to follow your recipes and tutorials on natural dyes. However, I've read somewhere about fixatives like salt and vinegar. May you explain what is the difference between fixatives and mordant? And what is the result if i only use fixatives stated above?
Hello there and welcome to the Color Quest family 🤎 Mordants are metal salts (various forms of alum, iron, copper, tin & chrome) that help fiber and natural color bind. This is a crucial step in natural dyeing to allow colors the best chance to 'stick around'. There are some recipes that call for a 'fixative' step often at the end of the process using salt or vinegar. Personally, I may use an acid, like vinegar , or an alkaline like sodium carbonate, to shift the pH of a dye which can cause colors to change in a dye matter that is pH sensitive. This may help enhance a color, but it should not replace the mordant step.
Hi Sabine - I like to go straight from the washing machine to the soy milk dip because the fiber is wet. You always want to work with wet fiber to help with easier absorption of the soy (or other mordants & dyes). If you dry the fiber after washing and want to work with soy milk at a later time, no problem, but just soak your fiber in water again before dipping it in the soy.
Thanks so much for sharing! I searched for this video after finding the one on red onion skin! I'm hoping to dye some baby clothes for my girl coming next month. Do you just keep reusing the same pot of soy milk water? After I complete this process and store for week, should I soak in water to make it more absorbent before submerging into the onion skins?
Congratulations on your baby girl's arrival just around the corner - how wonderful 💕 Awesome that you found the videos you were looking for here at Color Quest. You can keep the soy milk as long as it stays fresh. I have found that it will 'curdle' after a day or two, so it's up to you if you want to keep it using it after that. Try storing it in the fridge to keep longer if possible. When you are ready to dye any fiber, always make sure to soak it in water for an hour before putting it into the dye pot. It truly helps open up the fiber to better receive the color. Sending you lots of love and light for this special time!
@@divinesignatures6225 Very true! The natural tannins in the onion skin provide their own mordant, but it never hurts to add a little extra 'something something' if you have soy milk 😉
Hi Christina - the idea is to let the protein set into the textile longer, but it is not a requirement. You might get a darker result, but it's tough to say for sure. I've had obvious color shift results after using a soy milk binder with very little cure time, especially with high tannin dye matter like onion skins, for example. If you have the time, great - if not, it will still provide some level of binding 😊
Great question, Morva - I have never personally tried this, but I've read of others using cow's milk. Why not give it a try and let us know how it goes 😊
@@jameschristlerbalsamogolfo1974 Yes, of course! I have blackberry and Oregon grape that grow near me, both of which are edible and make wonderful dye colors 💜
I have a question..l want to know the Soy milk and water ratio. And only once we have to keep textile dipped in soy mordant for 12 hours?? Rest l guess just dipping and drying is done without waiting
The soy milk to water ratio is 1:5. In this video, I use a 1 quart container of soy milk to 5 quarts of water. Yes, you only soak the first time in soy milk for 12 hours. The second two times in soy milk is a quick dip to wet the fiber only with a complete dry in between. The spin in the washing machine simply helps remove excess soy milk so it dries faster. Best of luck!
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest l would also like to say that you are an amazing teacher… l have watched so many videos on natural dying but the way you explain is just amazing. Have become your fan 💖😊 stay blessed .. loads of love from lndia 💖💖💖🌸🌸🌸
@@mojohandykraftz You are so sweet! I'm so happy that my videos are helpful to you and hopefully inspire you to keep exploring with natural color. Sending colorful love your way as well 💚
You are most welcome! No problem to leave your fiber in for 12+ hours. Just keep your soy milk in a cool place as it can curdle and become somewhat stinky 😄
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest Thank you so much! If it stinky what to do? Can I wash it?🥵 And also question can I dye this fabric earlier than week after mortating?
@@kryklyvaptashka It's not the fiber that will stink - it's the soy milk bath. It is very unlikely it will curdle in just 12 hours especially if you keep it somewhere cool and out of the sun/heat. You don't have to wait for a week to dye, but let it fully dry before you put it in the dye pot. Even a day or two to cure is great.
Thanks for your question, Rebecca 💚It's always recommended to wet your textile in water before dyeing so it can better absorb the dye itself. To make sure your fiber is adequately wet, try soaking it in a pot of water for an hour or so before you dye. If you've allowed your textile with a soy milk mordant time to cure (1+ week), this soaking process should not negatively impact it. Enjoy!
Hi Margaret, with the soy milk mordant, can you keep that for any length of time or is it a 'one session use'? Also when you are drying the material pieces, are they dried in full sun or shade and could they be dried in the dryer? Thanks for this tutorial, I actually bought a container of soy milk this week to do this but was not totally sure how to adapt another video I saw using fresh made soy milk. Looks like I grab a whole bunch of pieces for this since I have a week to wait to use them lol
Hi Kerry - great questions! You can use the soy milk mixture as long as it stays fresh. What I have found is that it will eventually curdle so I've only been able to get one or maybe two uses out of it. Keeping it in a much cooler environment might allow it to last longer, so keep that in mind. For drying, I have only ever air dried it for curing, and for some reason, this feels like the right thing to do. It's possible the dryer would be fine, but it might cause issues with having soy milk 'splash' around the inside of your dryer. Personally, I would stick to air drying between soaks. I've never tried fresh made soy milk, so let me know what you think!
Great questions....I haven't tried soy milk yet, but from what I've been led to believe you can dry it any way you like. I will be drying mine indoors but no dryer sadly 😊
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest thanks, I won't be making my own soy milk after seeing the process 🤣 I have a line dryer that can be used in the shade or inside, so that will be an option. I might start this in a couple of days, it might help get me out of my funk at the moment with everything going on *sigh*
@@chriscaine7689 I have huge pieces of textile hanging all over my house. My son always knows when I'm doing it because of the soy milk smell everywhere - haha!
@@silverpromidi I'm with you there are all fronts, Kerry. It's quick and easy to find unsweetened organic soy milk, so I leave the more focused energy on brewing natural colors & creating artwork. We all need a creative outlet to soothe the soul during tough times. Hugs to you...
Hi! I have made shades similar to maroon with red onion skin and protein fibers. I will be releasing a video this Friday on red onion skin, so you can see the darker pink/reddish shades that came from that dye pot. You may be able to slightly alter the color with iron water like I did with Japanese maple leaves, but you would have to try with a very diluted mixture to carefully change the color as iron can shift it very quickly to brown. I've also made a gorgeous maroon with a modified cochineal recipe on wool yarn. Of course, with natural color, you have to keep experimenting and be open to getting various results and shifting colors with different dye pots 💗
Although soy milk is not classified as a true mordant, it does provide a protein layer that acts as a binder. I have found that soy milk does not typically give you as strong as a color result as compared to using alum as a mordant, particularly on cellulose fibers like cotton. Alum can also be used inside the dye pot and can modify some dye matter color, so experimentation is always a great thing. I have used both soy milk and alum on the same textile to compare different results, so keep exploring in your dye studio 💚
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest thank you for the reply! How would you use soy milk and alum on the same textile? Alum then soy milk or vice versa? Or in the dye bath?
@@fabali6380 You can try any of these options - experiment! Personally, I have pre-treated textile with soy milk first with a second treatment of alum before dyeing, but I did this because the result I got with soy milk was not very strong and I was curious to see how alum would effect it. I have used soy milk pre-treated fiber and soaked it in a dye bath that had alum added to the dye itself. I'm a very curious person, so I spend much of my dye studio time testing different things to learn. Please remember that there are so many factors that can impact color, so keeping an open mind about your results will make the whole process much more fun!
also is west soy the only brand you suggest? I know it is the most pure ingredients, it is becoming hard to come by and expensive. will a store brand work?
Using soy milk as a binder is a great natural option to get started because it is typically easy to find. As long as your clothes are made from natural fibers, and you have thoroughly washed them, soy milk should help with binding the dye to the fiber. Keep your ratios the same and you can certainly increase the volume. If you want a stronger mordant option, and have access to the supplies, alum and/or tannin are great choices and always a great way to go. You can see videos in my library here on both of those options as well.
@@naturaldyer You can use any brand that you want, but you want to make sure it is NOT sweetened. Alternatively, you can make your own soy milk from the beans themselves which may be more budget friendly and a great organic way to go.
@@naturaldyer I'm curious - what type of dye matter are you planning to use? As I mentioned, soy milk is an easy option to help with color bonding and a great place to start. Some dye matter responds better than others, and sometimes the results using alum/tannin can be stronger, so try the soy first and see if you like the results. Best of luck!
You are most welcome! Yes, you can use iron water with soy treated fiber. Much of my small fiber inventory I use in these videos has a soy binder treatment and I shift with iron often.
Hi Elly - you add water to the soy milk to dilute it in a 5:1 ratio (5 parts water:1 part soy milk). You can see the measurement I use starting at minute 4:15 in the video. Hope this answers your question 😊
Hi Margaret thank you! i want to ask if i want to use soy milk based earth pigment on the soy milk treated fabric can i just soak, cure for a day and then work it? or is this really needed to cure for month like people say?
You are most welcome, Evgenia 🌼 Honestly, my best advice is to simply try it out. I have used soy milk cured fiber right after it has dried and found it worked well. It makes sense that a longer curing time may help extend the binding power and it is a safe practice, but if you can't wait, don't worry too much. You could test it out with two different samples and see if you notice much of a difference 😊
Hi Monica - thanks for the question. I'm afraid I don't know how/if a soy milk mordant would cause an allergic reaction. I suggest you consult with a physician if you are concerned about using this technique as a binder. You can also consider tannin or alum as an alternative for a mordant 💚
Thanks so much for stopping by my channel and for the feedback on the print. It's a tough to find the right balance with the visuals, but I will definitely look at alternatives for the future 🌼
As a sound sensitive person, your peaceful fuss free video is a delight!
So wonderful to hear 💚 Many thanks for the kind words.
Thank you! I love this way of preparing fabric. Every other way I researched on how to prepare material involved methods that I felt were not natural or healthy.
You are most welcome, Donna 🤎 It is a super way to stay fully plant-based in your mordant prep in the dye studio. You can also try a tannin mordant too which is also plant-based. You can watch a few videos on tannins in my Mordant playlist 😊
Thanks for the video, your channel is a great resource. What was the ratio of soy milk to water that you used and is there a science to how much milk you should use in relation to the amount of fabric you're soaking? What I got was:
- 5 quarts water: 1 quarts milk
- soak prewashed fabric for 12 hours
- Take it out, wring and spin it out, then dry it. Repeat this twice more.
- store fabric for at least a week before dying it
- soak it in water for an hour directly before dying it.
Thanks again for your videos they're very helpful :)
[Edited to show full instructions for others]
Hi Abi - many thanks for reaching out and welcome to Color Quest! Seems like you got the gist - way to go 😉 The ratio is 1:5 - 1 part soy milk to 5 parts water. So in this video, I use 1 quart of soy milk. You can pre-treat up to 15 oz of fiber with this volume of soy milk solution. One note - the last step you mention above is a soak in water only (not soy milk) before you put the fiber into the dye pot. We always want to use wet fiber for dyeing as this 'opens' fibers up to better receive color.
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest great, thanks for your help! Going to give this a go ☺️
@@abihart7132 Fantastic - good luck!
Thank you. 🌸
PS : love your red washing machine. ❤️
You are most welcome! Haha about my red machines. Never thought about it, but guess they are kinda cool 💗
Very awesome presentation, and helpful in my dyeing projects. Thank you.
So happy to hear the video was helpful for you, Angie!
Geniales los videos era lo que estaba buscando muchas gracias ,ahora solo falta empezar mil gracias
¡De nada! Es hora de comenzar toda la diversión colorida 😉
You are adorable … I love the content and your step by step instruction … thank you! 🤗🥰
You are so sweet, Mihaela 💕 Very happy that the tutorials are helpful! Have fun in your dyepot 😊
This is super interesting and I'd love to try it. I'm curious about why the fabrics go through the process 3 times? Is it to ensure complete coverage? If so, could that be achieved by leaving them in longer for a single round? Thank you so much for sharing your tips!!
So happy to hear you enjoyed the video, Vicki! It is a great plant-based option for making a homemade binder for natural dyeing. You can certainly shorten the process by only soaking it one time for longer. Just make sure to move it around so you are getting full coverage on the fiber. A three time soak is just adding extra potential binding layers, but not a requirement.
Thank you color Birdy!
You are most welcome, Anu 💚
Learning from experience of doing this same thing with the soy milk solution, I’ve learned that submerging the fabric into the soy solution results in blotchy application. You can’t tell it’s happened until you’ve dyed with it already and see that the color is not even. That’s why John Marshall suggests using some tool (can’t remember the name of it) to stretch the fabric on and then paint it on evenly. That’s what I’m trying to research…Is what is that tool called and how to make a diy one. I don’t want anymore blotchy dye results.
Many thanks for sharing about the potential for blotchy results with soy milk when simply soaking it in a bucket. I've also experienced this, but I personally like the effect. John Marshall is an amazing artist & teacher with vast experience, so he would have the best advice on this as you mentioned. They are called Shinsi bamboo stretchers or dowels. I've seen them used in a workshop I attended, but have never used them personally. Hope you can find some for smooth soy milk applications - good luck!
Why did you weigh the material?
Great question, Janelle. The volume of soy milk binder is connected to the weight of fiber (WOF). In this video, I'm using 1 liter of soy milk + 5 liters of water as the binding bath. You can treat up to 15 oz (~400 grams) of fiber in this ratio of soy milk+water bath. You might not want to use more fiber as the soy milk binder won't adequately cover the surface of the textile.
Dear Margaret❤ thank you so much for this great tutorial and that you answered so many of our questions, this is so helpful! thank you!! 🥰🥰
I also have 2 questions :)
I have often read that after mordanting you should rinse the fabric under clear water before putting it in the dyebath, is that true?
Does it make sense to fix the color with vinegar/salt?
Can I heated the fabric in the dye liquor after mordanting with soy milk?
Thanks again for the help!🫶🏻🌸
Hello and thank you for being part of the Color Quest family! I'm so happy you are enjoying the videos and having fun in your dye studio. As with most things, there are many different methods that people use, so you will see variations in processes.
In general, it is great to rinse fibers after working with a mordant or dye so you remove any molecules that have not adhered to the fiber. You also always want to work with wet fiber, so you will want to soak your pre-treated fiber in water if it is already dried before putting it into the dye pot.
I personally don't use vinegar or salt as a 'fixative', but I see that others may suggest that. For me, vinegar is a color modifier as an acidic element and salt can help with ionization in certain processes (rust dyeing, for example). However, if you find a recipe that calls for either one, feel free to try it out. I have seen salt recommended for lichen dyeing for instance, so I've definitely used it there as recommended.
For your last question, it is best to always let your soy milk treated fiber have some time to cure, so let it dry and sit before using it in a dye bath. Some will say it is better if it cures for at least 1+ week, so if you have that much time, great. You can also get binding effects with a much shorter curing time, so experiment and see what works best for you. Have fun!
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest thank you again so much for your answers!!! 🥰❤️❤️❤️ this is really helpful!! 🌸🌸
@@star-0815 You are most welcome - best of luck!
Was a very informative video, thank you! I'm curious about how to store the soy milk, can it be refrigerated during the process. I mean after the first 12 hour soak, can the milk be refrigerated and used to soak/dip the fabrics accordingly...thank you
You are most welcome, Shilpa 🌼 I have kept soy milk in the fridge or a cool place to use for multiple dips for many days. It will start to curdle, break apart and smell 'off' when it is time to throw it away. I've seen soy milk last for 1-2 weeks, but sometimes less, so keep it airtight if possible and cold. In this video, I used the same soy milk mixture for all 3 dips. Best of luck!
Thank you for letting me know, appreciate the detailed info!
@@ShilpaThoudam My pleasure 🤎
Curious on how to store any leftover soy/water mixture after the last dip of materials.
I have found that my soy milk solution 'curdles' by the 3rd dip, so I've not stored it afterwards. In smaller batches, I've kept the solution in the fridge longer, ie. 1+ week, and although it thickens up, I have diluted it again with water. The colder you can keep it, the longer it seems to last.
Hi Margaret, thank you for the step by step video!
I watched the others people video, paint with soy milk and dye the fabric afterward, the soy milk painting area will getting darker than the fabric.
So, if i soap the fabric into soy milk for mordant, which mean my whole fabric will be get darker colour than usual, is that correct? Thank you
Hi there - you are most welcome! Yes, you are correct. If you soak the entire fiber in soy milk as a binder, the whole piece will get darker in most dye matter. You can use soy milk as a kind of 'paint' to make patterns on a piece of fiber by just applying the soy milk in the places you want to have the design. I recently posted a video about using soy milk this way. You can find it in my video library from a few weeks ago and also in the 'eco-printing' playlist on my channel. Check it out!
That's cool that your washer has a spin only cycle.
I just had to run down and look to see if I had that and I don't. Just a rinse and spin 😮💨
Oops...didn't realize I was so lucky 🙃 Just give it a really good squeeze and you will be fine. May take a bit longer to dry with a few more drips, but if you have an outdoor line, that may be your best bet 🌼
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest haha your fine but that function is pretty handy!
I was really annoyed not to see spin only as an option on my LG machine and thought no way! So I looked in the manual and the way you access it is: turn on the machine but don't touch anything, then just press the Spin or Spin Speed button (not a physical button just like a touch pad). That lets you cycle through the spin only cycle speed you want. Hope that works for you! 😁
@@jpb1238 I will look but when I turn on my washer a setting is already selected and I turn the k on to what I want but I'll look in the manual or Google it! Thank you!
@@jpb1238 I just Googled it and I do have a spin only!! I have a rinse and spin and if I turn off the extra rinse button it will only spin!
For all out there I have a Maytag Bravos XL
Thank you. Another excellent video. So, I 'm working hard but i'll show the results and the liquenes. Abraços.
So happy you are enjoying the videos, Cristina 🌼 Excited to see your results!
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest I'm an artist and retired professor from University and my class was" Materials and technics"...well well well...I discovered the paper ecoprint...and soon the fiber ecoprint...Hughes to you!
@@cristinapape How wonderful! I would have loved to take your class in school 😊 It's amazing to keep exploring to find new amazing ways to create 🌼🤎🌼 Hugs back at ya!!
It's okay to spin dry the cloth, even though the washing machine sprays it as it is spin drying?
Yes, no problem at all. A little water added to the spin dry will not bother soy milk bind 😊
Do you re soak the fabric before dying I'm about to dye my first soy milk bundle I can't wait
Great question - yes, you always want to soak your fiber in water before putting it in a dye pot. It helps remove oxygen and open fibers up to better receive dye 🤎
Would it be alright to keep it in the refrigerator? I live in a hot climate, It was day 2 for me, and when I went to remove the fabric, the soy milk solution has curdled.
Yes, of course! I've also had it curdle on me, so definitely store in the coolest space you have, and feel free to shorten the time the fiber is in the soy milk as well.
I've read that its possible to use other types of nut milk and even cow's milk. Have you tried these before?
I have also read about that, Pachia, but I have not tried it. Why not give it a go and see what happens? Let us know what you find out 😊
Hi Margaret.. brand new here 😊 I love this video & love that you offer a soy milk alternative to alum.
Question … after my project is complete, I want to do a sodium carbonate soak. What is the ‘recipe’ meaning sodium carbonate ratio to water ? I’ll be using about 15 is of fabric…. Thank You so much! 🤗😊
Hi Kimberly - welcome to Color Quest! So happy to hear the video is helpful 🌼 Two questions for you: what is your dye matter and what are you trying to do specifically with the sodium carbonate (aka soda ash)?
We typically measure mordants and modifiers (like sodium carbonate, aka soda ash) by the weight of fiber (WOF) not the volume of water. Since sodium carbonate is a relatively strong alkaline, you will not need much to shift the color of a pH sensitive dye source. Depending on what you are trying to do, I would start with only a pinch ~ 1/8 of a teaspoon. You can always increase this if needed up to 1% WOF, for example.
Thank you for this video! For each quick wash, did you put in detergent or did you just click quick wash without any detergent?
You are very welcome! Actually, the only time there was an actual wash was on the first run (with detergent). This is used to clean the textile only. The other times in the washing machine after each soak in the soy milk was for a quick SPIN only - no wash (minutes 6:22 and 7:48) It was to help 'fling' off the excess soy milk to help with faster air drying. You don't want to wash off the soy milk that you are trying to set into the fiber 😊
Hi! Love your videos so much, was wondering if it’s absolutely necessary to prewash the fabrics / if I can hand wash instead of using a machine? My only laundry machine access is at the laundromat and so it’s a bit harder to machine wash for me. Thank you so much!!
Hi Sophie - thanks for joining the Color Quest family 🌼 While you will always want to wash your fibers well before mordant/dye process, you can do this on the stove-top too 😊. I have many videos where I wash/scour this way. Of course, you are always welcome to hand wash if that is best for you. You may want to invest in soda ash/washing soda or something like Synthrapol for extra cleaning power.
Will fabric dyed with soy milk mordant cause allergic reactions to those allergic to soy?
What a thoughtful question - thank you. I'm afraid I don't have an answer for you, though. It would be best to discuss this with a physician who is familiar with soy allergy and how it manifests. There are other plant-based binders in tannin, so you might look to those as an alternative to soy. I have many videos using tannin as a mordant, so go check those out 😊
Is the washing machine step your “scour”?
Yes, I often just use my washing machine to clean my fiber as opposed to a stovetop scour with soda ash. Some fibers may need a deeper clean so you can always scour instead. I recently bought washing soda that you can put in the washing machine if you want the extra soda ash cleanse.
Can you put the soy milk in the fridge overnight?
Yes, you can store the soy milk in a fridge - no problem 😊
Hi margaret! Im so happy to follow your recipes and tutorials on natural dyes. However, I've read somewhere about fixatives like salt and vinegar. May you explain what is the difference between fixatives and mordant? And what is the result if i only use fixatives stated above?
Hello there and welcome to the Color Quest family 🤎 Mordants are metal salts (various forms of alum, iron, copper, tin & chrome) that help fiber and natural color bind. This is a crucial step in natural dyeing to allow colors the best chance to 'stick around'. There are some recipes that call for a 'fixative' step often at the end of the process using salt or vinegar. Personally, I may use an acid, like vinegar , or an alkaline like sodium carbonate, to shift the pH of a dye which can cause colors to change in a dye matter that is pH sensitive. This may help enhance a color, but it should not replace the mordant step.
One more more question... do you dry the fabric before the First dip in soy solution?
Hi Sabine - I like to go straight from the washing machine to the soy milk dip because the fiber is wet. You always want to work with wet fiber to help with easier absorption of the soy (or other mordants & dyes). If you dry the fiber after washing and want to work with soy milk at a later time, no problem, but just soak your fiber in water again before dipping it in the soy.
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest makes sense Margaret, and it is easier not to have to dry and rehydrate ! My end of the day is now planned. Thank you.
@@sabinecompeyn6453 Absolutely - efficiency is always welcome 😊 Have fun!
Thanks so much for sharing! I searched for this video after finding the one on red onion skin! I'm hoping to dye some baby clothes for my girl coming next month. Do you just keep reusing the same pot of soy milk water? After I complete this process and store for week, should I soak in water to make it more absorbent before submerging into the onion skins?
Congratulations on your baby girl's arrival just around the corner - how wonderful 💕 Awesome that you found the videos you were looking for here at Color Quest. You can keep the soy milk as long as it stays fresh. I have found that it will 'curdle' after a day or two, so it's up to you if you want to keep it using it after that. Try storing it in the fridge to keep longer if possible. When you are ready to dye any fiber, always make sure to soak it in water for an hour before putting it into the dye pot. It truly helps open up the fiber to better receive the color. Sending you lots of love and light for this special time!
Onion skins don’t need mordant ☺️
@@divinesignatures6225 Very true! The natural tannins in the onion skin provide their own mordant, but it never hurts to add a little extra 'something something' if you have soy milk 😉
Curious why it needs to be stored 1+ week after the last drying period before dying the materials.
Hi Christina - the idea is to let the protein set into the textile longer, but it is not a requirement. You might get a darker result, but it's tough to say for sure. I've had obvious color shift results after using a soy milk binder with very little cure time, especially with high tannin dye matter like onion skins, for example. If you have the time, great - if not, it will still provide some level of binding 😊
Just curious, can you use ordinary cows milk to mordant
Great question, Morva - I have never personally tried this, but I've read of others using cow's milk. Why not give it a try and let us know how it goes 😊
on the dyeing would you like to use berries pls for pink and purple color thank you
Hi James - I don't use berries much for dyeing, but would you like to see a video tutorial on that?
just one pls in the future 😊 thank you
if you recommend to🙂
pls just make sure those berries are EDIBLE thank you
@@jameschristlerbalsamogolfo1974 Will do! I will test it out this summer when berries are rip in my local forest and I can forage for them 😊
@@jameschristlerbalsamogolfo1974 Yes, of course! I have blackberry and Oregon grape that grow near me, both of which are edible and make wonderful dye colors 💜
I have a question..l want to know the Soy milk and water ratio. And only once we have to keep textile dipped in soy mordant for 12 hours?? Rest l guess just dipping and drying is done without waiting
The soy milk to water ratio is 1:5. In this video, I use a 1 quart container of soy milk to 5 quarts of water. Yes, you only soak the first time in soy milk for 12 hours. The second two times in soy milk is a quick dip to wet the fiber only with a complete dry in between. The spin in the washing machine simply helps remove excess soy milk so it dries faster. Best of luck!
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest l would also like to say that you are an amazing teacher… l have watched so many videos on natural dying but the way you explain is just amazing. Have become your fan 💖😊 stay blessed .. loads of love from lndia 💖💖💖🌸🌸🌸
@@mojohandykraftz You are so sweet! I'm so happy that my videos are helpful to you and hopefully inspire you to keep exploring with natural color. Sending colorful love your way as well 💚
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest 😘💖❤️🌺🌸
Thank you for this video!❤️
What if I leave fabric in mortant for more than 12 hours?
You are most welcome! No problem to leave your fiber in for 12+ hours. Just keep your soy milk in a cool place as it can curdle and become somewhat stinky 😄
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest Thank you so much!
If it stinky what to do?
Can I wash it?🥵
And also question can I dye this fabric earlier than week after mortating?
@@kryklyvaptashka It's not the fiber that will stink - it's the soy milk bath. It is very unlikely it will curdle in just 12 hours especially if you keep it somewhere cool and out of the sun/heat. You don't have to wait for a week to dye, but let it fully dry before you put it in the dye pot. Even a day or two to cure is great.
can you dye the fabrics dry or do they need to be sprayed with more soy milk solution before dyeing?
Thanks for your question, Rebecca 💚It's always recommended to wet your textile in water before dyeing so it can better absorb the dye itself. To make sure your fiber is adequately wet, try soaking it in a pot of water for an hour or so before you dye. If you've allowed your textile with a soy milk mordant time to cure (1+ week), this soaking process should not negatively impact it. Enjoy!
Hi Margaret, with the soy milk mordant, can you keep that for any length of time or is it a 'one session use'?
Also when you are drying the material pieces, are they dried in full sun or shade and could they be dried in the dryer?
Thanks for this tutorial, I actually bought a container of soy milk this week to do this but was not totally sure how to adapt another video I saw using fresh made soy milk. Looks like I grab a whole bunch of pieces for this since I have a week to wait to use them lol
Hi Kerry - great questions! You can use the soy milk mixture as long as it stays fresh. What I have found is that it will eventually curdle so I've only been able to get one or maybe two uses out of it. Keeping it in a much cooler environment might allow it to last longer, so keep that in mind. For drying, I have only ever air dried it for curing, and for some reason, this feels like the right thing to do. It's possible the dryer would be fine, but it might cause issues with having soy milk 'splash' around the inside of your dryer. Personally, I would stick to air drying between soaks. I've never tried fresh made soy milk, so let me know what you think!
Great questions....I haven't tried soy milk yet, but from what I've been led to believe you can dry it any way you like. I will be drying mine indoors but no dryer sadly 😊
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest thanks, I won't be making my own soy milk after seeing the process 🤣 I have a line dryer that can be used in the shade or inside, so that will be an option. I might start this in a couple of days, it might help get me out of my funk at the moment with everything going on *sigh*
@@chriscaine7689 I have huge pieces of textile hanging all over my house. My son always knows when I'm doing it because of the soy milk smell everywhere - haha!
@@silverpromidi I'm with you there are all fronts, Kerry. It's quick and easy to find unsweetened organic soy milk, so I leave the more focused energy on brewing natural colors & creating artwork. We all need a creative outlet to soothe the soul during tough times. Hugs to you...
Hello, I'm new here and I'm wondering if you've ever made a maroon? Its my favorite color and i cant seem to make it.
Hi! I have made shades similar to maroon with red onion skin and protein fibers. I will be releasing a video this Friday on red onion skin, so you can see the darker pink/reddish shades that came from that dye pot. You may be able to slightly alter the color with iron water like I did with Japanese maple leaves, but you would have to try with a very diluted mixture to carefully change the color as iron can shift it very quickly to brown. I've also made a gorgeous maroon with a modified cochineal recipe on wool yarn. Of course, with natural color, you have to keep experimenting and be open to getting various results and shifting colors with different dye pots 💗
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest Thank you so much!
@@babypenguin8754 You are very welcome!
As this is not really classified as a mordant, can we use alum (not alum acetate) after as you would with an animal fibre to help with the colour
Although soy milk is not classified as a true mordant, it does provide a protein layer that acts as a binder. I have found that soy milk does not typically give you as strong as a color result as compared to using alum as a mordant, particularly on cellulose fibers like cotton. Alum can also be used inside the dye pot and can modify some dye matter color, so experimentation is always a great thing. I have used both soy milk and alum on the same textile to compare different results, so keep exploring in your dye studio 💚
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest thank you for the reply! How would you use soy milk and alum on the same textile? Alum then soy milk or vice versa? Or in the dye bath?
@@fabali6380 You can try any of these options - experiment! Personally, I have pre-treated textile with soy milk first with a second treatment of alum before dyeing, but I did this because the result I got with soy milk was not very strong and I was curious to see how alum would effect it. I have used soy milk pre-treated fiber and soaked it in a dye bath that had alum added to the dye itself. I'm a very curious person, so I spend much of my dye studio time testing different things to learn. Please remember that there are so many factors that can impact color, so keeping an open mind about your results will make the whole process much more fun!
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest thanks for the reply
Can I dye the fabric with natural dye after putting it for rest after a week ?
Yes, that should be plenty of time to let the soy milk binder cure 🙂
Do you think this process is suitable if I am dyeing clothes? All cotton, linen, and silk. I just need to increase the amounts to a larger scale?
also is west soy the only brand you suggest? I know it is the most pure ingredients, it is becoming hard to come by and expensive. will a store brand work?
my plan is also use for bundle dyeing and by clothes I mean t-shirts and blouses.
Using soy milk as a binder is a great natural option to get started because it is typically easy to find. As long as your clothes are made from natural fibers, and you have thoroughly washed them, soy milk should help with binding the dye to the fiber. Keep your ratios the same and you can certainly increase the volume. If you want a stronger mordant option, and have access to the supplies, alum and/or tannin are great choices and always a great way to go. You can see videos in my library here on both of those options as well.
@@naturaldyer You can use any brand that you want, but you want to make sure it is NOT sweetened. Alternatively, you can make your own soy milk from the beans themselves which may be more budget friendly and a great organic way to go.
@@naturaldyer I'm curious - what type of dye matter are you planning to use? As I mentioned, soy milk is an easy option to help with color bonding and a great place to start. Some dye matter responds better than others, and sometimes the results using alum/tannin can be stronger, so try the soy first and see if you like the results. Best of luck!
Thanks for sharing your skills. The step by step presentation is easy to follow. Can iron water be used with material with soya mordant?
You are most welcome! Yes, you can use iron water with soy treated fiber. Much of my small fiber inventory I use in these videos has a soy binder treatment and I shift with iron often.
mixture soy milk with ??
Hi Elly - you add water to the soy milk to dilute it in a 5:1 ratio (5 parts water:1 part soy milk). You can see the measurement I use starting at minute 4:15 in the video. Hope this answers your question 😊
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest thanks
@@Hady_septirah313 You bet!!
Hi Margaret thank you! i want to ask if i want to use soy milk based earth pigment on the soy milk treated fabric can i just soak, cure for a day and then work it? or is this really needed to cure for month like people say?
You are most welcome, Evgenia 🌼 Honestly, my best advice is to simply try it out. I have used soy milk cured fiber right after it has dried and found it worked well. It makes sense that a longer curing time may help extend the binding power and it is a safe practice, but if you can't wait, don't worry too much. You could test it out with two different samples and see if you notice much of a difference 😊
Will the fabric affect anyone with a soy allergy?
Hi Monica - thanks for the question. I'm afraid I don't know how/if a soy milk mordant would cause an allergic reaction. I suggest you consult with a physician if you are concerned about using this technique as a binder. You can also consider tannin or alum as an alternative for a mordant 💚
@@MargaretByrdColorQuest thank you!
I thought soy sounded great, but after seeing the long drawn out process of soy, way to long and time consuming.
You can certainly shorten the process by only doing one soak. It will certainly give you some binding properties regardless. Why not give it a try 😊
Great videos, having difficulty reading the white print though.
Thanks so much for stopping by my channel and for the feedback on the print. It's a tough to find the right balance with the visuals, but I will definitely look at alternatives for the future 🌼