This was a great test. By reading many comments, I think a lot of people were afraid to overheat the 03 because they thought it would burn itself up. It's good to see that even when you left it on for over an hour it never burned up! Good for DJI having that over heating control built in... And it appears to actually work! 🤞😁
I have Flywoo Explorer LR 4 with regular 03. Currently where I live is around 36°C in the shade, during the day. High humidity. If I dont fly as soon as I power it on, 03 overheats, FC overheats. Lite versions are definety not for summer times.
I flew a drone with side panels slowly in 38°C and i think it overheated for a second. Everything blinked off video and my control of the drone and transmitter sounded like it lost signal. I then turned around and flew back fast. get that wind blowing haha
A few thoughts: 1) The auto shutdown (ie internal temp sensors) are likely tuned to the average temp of being inside the cans and enclosure. I'm curious to know if the shutdown now happens later than it should because the real amount of heat isn't getting to the sensor. 2) The P1 is likely hotter in the 03 than the original/caddx due to H.265 (vs H.264). So... if it gets really hot does the performance then degrade? 3) Would love to see the same tests in light mode (cans on). 4) Fantastic work!
Question: How would you go about maximizing cooling of the air unit in all configurations; stock, naked, lite, ultra, whatever. I have a question about ideas to keep the 03 air units cool only, not concerned about weight in this moment. I am more concerned about keeping the 03 air unit running cool over its lifetime than saving the weight. Note: Perhaps you can tell me that I should not be concerned with this, but from what I have seen, you can fry an egg on one of these things, they get really hot and can go into shutdown which could be very problematic in some circumstances. With a lot of the heat being generated in-between some of the layers of circuit boards, and only thinking of removing heat, again not worried about weight... but let's say you add a IFlight 03 heatsink to the outermost circuit board, would that make sense? Do we have any choices? (see the next paragraph) Does it make a difference which side you would put the heat sink on? Should you put heat sinks on both sides??? Does it make sense to try to cool the units by drawing heat thru the circuit boards to the outer boards. Perhaps there should there be some kind of heat transfer metal that would or could be mounted in-between the boards... and with that, move that heat thru a thermal mass to an external heat sink to aid in cooling. Could we expect that with a proper application of thermal paste where needed that we could do an effective job of cooling the 03 assembly with the use of the heat sinks such as the one from iFlight? This assumes that the heat sink has decent exposure to some airflow during a typical flight. By the way, those small "bars" that are found on the boards, i can't imagine that they are doing very much good based on where they are located and the size of the pad, just not big enough and not in a location where it can shed heat.
On my naked Vistas I kept the bottom heatsink on P1 for that reason. Adds 2 grams only vs fully naked but makes them almost as temperature stable as a normal Vista.
The lose of weight is really nice, and especially for whoops it really mathers, however i have really big concerns about the level of heat that is generated, therefore i dont know if its a good idea to make it naked and removing the thermal compound, maybe after the warranty ends, or as soon as the o3 gets cheaper. 😅 Thanks for the infos!
On the flywoo site they had this diagram of a frame that I would like to know if it is actually going to be sold. They recommended that the lite or ultra be ensconced in the frame such that the propellers could help with cooling. This is probably a good idea.
It would of been nice to see how the thermals are with the metal covers still on with the compound as well. Also, compare it to how the thermals are normally with the stock housings on. Other than that great vid Mate! Cheers 🍻
Largely the same. All you will see with the shielding is that get hot. Overall it’s the same components driving the heat. All the different will be it will take a little longer to overheat.
Thank you very much 😁 i am building a speedybee master 5 v2 and was curious about which side needs to be against the heatsink 😉 i will definitely put the flat side against heatsink. Excellent info 😁 i don't think mine came with the metal plate for 03 unit anyways 🤣🤯 can't find it anywhere but it looks like it's on the parts list 😉
That is an attractive build. About the same weight as the full size Walksnail Avatar VTX, but better video. But at twice the price, not worth risking overheating DJI O3 naked?
@@33rdframe How much do you think it needs? According to Ian's video "DJI O3 FPV System - Complete Setup - Diagnostics & Troubleshooting Guide" the 03 Air Unit pulls up to 15 watts or 1.5A @ 10v. RealPit HD - VTX Power Switch Operating Voltage: 5V - 28V (HV-6s) 2 Amp Switch The 03 Air Unit input voltage range is 7.4-26.4v so it seems like as long as you're supplying 10v or more you should have plenty of headroom. Is that wrong?
Are you going to conformal coat any of the components? I'm wondering how bad that would insulate it. I'm probably not going ultra and just use the factory heat shield and thermal compound as waterproofing for those components
If flying in an environment with low relative humidity, high temperature, and dry fuels like dead grass… could the 03 possibly cause the grass or other vegetation to ignite - if there is a loss of signal or failure to return… would the 03 cool off before there is potential fire concern?
It takes about 500 degrees f to start a grassfire. If you are flying in such an environment you have to worry about causing sparks if you hit rocks, motor temps, shorting during a crash.. etc.
every raspberry pi board / kit i've ever used always has a little mini heat sync to go on the main chip. I am considering something like that for my naked o3 because shaving 20g sounds good but noone has really 'tested' this over a 6 month period so who knows what the long term effects are, if any. @@MadRC
Unrelated note - caddxfpv sent out an email showing deals where the dominator HD goggles are being sold with their VTX/cameras - no more Caddx fps goggles? Strange.
I I were doing this, I would leave the heat shields on, and since the hottest chip is up top, add some sort of finned aluminium to that shield. But then the loss in weight is marginal
This was a great test. By reading many comments, I think a lot of people were afraid to overheat the 03 because they thought it would burn itself up. It's good to see that even when you left it on for over an hour it never burned up! Good for DJI having that over heating control built in... And it appears to actually work! 🤞😁
I have Flywoo Explorer LR 4 with regular 03. Currently where I live is around 36°C in the shade, during the day. High humidity.
If I dont fly as soon as I power it on, 03 overheats, FC overheats.
Lite versions are definety not for summer times.
I flew a drone with side panels slowly in 38°C and i think it overheated for a second. Everything blinked off video and my control of the drone and transmitter sounded like it lost signal. I then turned around and flew back fast. get that wind blowing haha
A few thoughts:
1) The auto shutdown (ie internal temp sensors) are likely tuned to the average temp of being inside the cans and enclosure. I'm curious to know if the shutdown now happens later than it should because the real amount of heat isn't getting to the sensor.
2) The P1 is likely hotter in the 03 than the original/caddx due to H.265 (vs H.264). So... if it gets really hot does the performance then degrade?
3) Would love to see the same tests in light mode (cans on).
4) Fantastic work!
Great testing, would be interesting to see how it handles the heat if you conformal coat it, obviously worse, but would it make it unusable?
I think it will be fine.
Question: How would you go about maximizing cooling of the air unit in all configurations; stock, naked, lite, ultra, whatever. I have a question about ideas to keep the 03 air units cool only, not concerned about weight in this moment. I am more concerned about keeping the 03 air unit running cool over its lifetime than saving the weight.
Note: Perhaps you can tell me that I should not be concerned with this, but from what I have seen, you can fry an egg on one of these things, they get really hot and can go into shutdown which could be very problematic in some circumstances.
With a lot of the heat being generated in-between some of the layers of circuit boards, and only thinking of removing heat, again not worried about weight... but let's say you add a IFlight 03 heatsink to the outermost circuit board, would that make sense? Do we have any choices? (see the next paragraph) Does it make a difference which side you would put the heat sink on? Should you put heat sinks on both sides???
Does it make sense to try to cool the units by drawing heat thru the circuit boards to the outer boards. Perhaps there should there be some kind of heat transfer metal that would or could be mounted in-between the boards... and with that, move that heat thru a thermal mass to an external heat sink to aid in cooling.
Could we expect that with a proper application of thermal paste where needed that we could do an effective job of cooling the 03 assembly with the use of the heat sinks such as the one from iFlight? This assumes that the heat sink has decent exposure to some airflow during a typical flight.
By the way, those small "bars" that are found on the boards, i can't imagine that they are doing very much good based on where they are located and the size of the pad, just not big enough and not in a location where it can shed heat.
On my naked Vistas I kept the bottom heatsink on P1 for that reason. Adds 2 grams only vs fully naked but makes them almost as temperature stable as a normal Vista.
The lose of weight is really nice, and especially for whoops it really mathers, however i have really big concerns about the level of heat that is generated, therefore i dont know if its a good idea to make it naked and removing the thermal compound, maybe after the warranty ends, or as soon as the o3 gets cheaper. 😅 Thanks for the infos!
Wonder if just add heatsink to top of P1 will help. I have copper one I add to RC car to get a lil more cooling going slow.
On the flywoo site they had this diagram of a frame that I would like to know if it is actually going to be sold. They recommended that the lite or ultra be ensconced in the frame such that the propellers could help with cooling. This is probably a good idea.
It would of been nice to see how the thermals are with the metal covers still on with the compound as well. Also, compare it to how the thermals are normally with the stock housings on. Other than that great vid Mate! Cheers 🍻
Exactly - I want to know how the heat dissipation is with the Flywoo lite vs. ultra options.
Largely the same. All you will see with the shielding is that get hot. Overall it’s the same components driving the heat. All the different will be it will take a little longer to overheat.
I'm wondering if the shielding has decent thermal capacity and ability to function as a heatsink.
@@MrBlonde5k1 Flywoo claims 10+ minute stock, 3:30 Lite, and 2:20 for the Ultra
@@MadRC you can buy a flir c5 there a good thermal camera
Mads Tech you are awesome. definitely on par with the knowitall at this point. THANK YOU for all you do
Thank you very much 😁 i am building a speedybee master 5 v2 and was curious about which side needs to be against the heatsink 😉 i will definitely put the flat side against heatsink. Excellent info 😁 i don't think mine came with the metal plate for 03 unit anyways 🤣🤯 can't find it anywhere but it looks like it's on the parts list 😉
That is an attractive build. About the same weight as the full size Walksnail Avatar VTX, but better video. But at twice the price, not worth risking overheating DJI O3 naked?
Seems like a great use case for the TinysLEDs RealPit HD VTX Power Switch.
@@33rdframe The original RealPit does 1A but the new "HD" version does up to 2A.
@@33rdframe How much do you think it needs? According to Ian's video "DJI O3 FPV System - Complete Setup - Diagnostics & Troubleshooting Guide" the 03 Air Unit pulls up to 15 watts or 1.5A @ 10v.
RealPit HD - VTX Power Switch Operating Voltage: 5V - 28V (HV-6s) 2 Amp Switch
The 03 Air Unit input voltage range is 7.4-26.4v so it seems like as long as you're supplying 10v or more you should have plenty of headroom. Is that wrong?
Are you going to conformal coat any of the components? I'm wondering how bad that would insulate it. I'm probably not going ultra and just use the factory heat shield and thermal compound as waterproofing for those components
I seen micro aluminium heatsinks on ali that may be usefil if glue it on P1 chip. My thoughts that constant overheating will shorten lifespan
We don't know that yet.
make a video on how the pavo pico flys with the new air unit stripped down.
Awesome test. How does it compare to the un-modded 03?
If flying in an environment with low relative humidity, high temperature, and dry fuels like dead grass… could the 03 possibly cause the grass or other vegetation to ignite - if there is a loss of signal or failure to return… would the 03 cool off before there is potential fire concern?
It takes about 500 degrees f to start a grassfire. If you are flying in such an environment you have to worry about causing sparks if you hit rocks, motor temps, shorting during a crash.. etc.
Awesome testing Sir! Thank you so much Sir! 🫡
Now it's time to fly with it, compare flight times and see if everything's okay.
awesome video!!
So, kinda like a naked Vista?
EXACTLY LIKE ONE
Is there any difference of behavior between lite and ultra 🤔
Cause the shield should be kind of a thermal conductor, or
Yea it will allow it to run a little longer but overall it’s largely the same.
@@MadRC thank you, so I will consider to use the ultra für the pavo and the lite for the Siren F3 Split
Thanks Ian!
2:35 flare your nose, flare flare flare flare! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I'd pop a Raspberry Pie or Stepper motor heat sink on that P1. Should help out quite a bit.
Nice set of videos BTW. I'll probably end up doing the same thing to my P. Pico
in an e-mail from caddx they informed about firmware 34.40.15_beta for avatar. are you testing that already?
It's trash again
Sacrificing a gram or two for a separate small heatsink on the P1 would be something I would consider to help lowering the temp 😅 Thanks for the test!
I was thinking about this me self. Just something with some thermal epoxy
every raspberry pi board / kit i've ever used always has a little mini heat sync to go on the main chip. I am considering something like that for my naked o3 because shaving 20g sounds good but noone has really 'tested' this over a 6 month period so who knows what the long term effects are, if any. @@MadRC
Very nice
It would be nice to see comparisons without a naked AirUnit
I have done the normal one already on the channel. Not side by side but there is a thermal overview on the channel
My father always use to tell me hot eletronics ? 90%failure and short life !! 99 degree ? fried egg 😀
Unrelated note - caddxfpv sent out an email showing deals where the dominator HD goggles are being sold with their VTX/cameras - no more Caddx fps goggles? Strange.
You spelt the title wrong
Too
Prove it 😉
He hasn't spelt it wrong.Too is an adverb
@@MadRC i respect that lol
I I were doing this, I would leave the heat shields on, and since the hottest chip is up top, add some sort of finned aluminium to that shield.
But then the loss in weight is marginal
Whats the point of the ultra when you take away the best thing about the o3? 😂
You can still record but only to the 20gb onboard. Still plenty of space.
@MadRC oh wtf this is amazing 😀