Hi everyone, the part 2 thermal video will be release shortly and I will add a link here as well once done. Furthermore I just wanted to add that this was not a sponsors video or even a review. I paid for both the Flywoo O3 kit and the DJI O3 Air Unit. This video was entirely conceived by me with zero input from Flywoo or anyone else.
Thank you Ian for doing the thermo video. That was my main concern, and you answered it upfront with a dedicated video. Thanks for including very detailed disassembly/assembly in this video, as it is a great reference.
5:03 - dji air unit: 34 gr. 28:49 - O3 ultra: 18 gr. 16 gr. saved or close to 50% At the end I would doubt that dji has just added wait without any benefits we cut away with such ultra version and therefore the key question: Are the benefits of 18 gr. worth the risks like overheating or faster aging of the componente due to higher heat considering dji will no longer provide any warranty? I have my doubts and would try to save weight rather on other parts than on a 250€ - 300€ in total O3 air unit cut down to an O3 ultra. Yes, the result is really impressive by weight savings, but I would rahter sit and wait a year to see what that might cause on such ultra air units cause for me the air units are still quite expensive pieces I can not afford to replace every year. And I am the fixed wing guy where I do not really have to take so much care about weight except in those cases where the CG is out of range. But usually I prefer the genuine untouched dji air unit with all its glory and flaws from the factory line even though I can understand why people wanna try to cut away and lower weight.
The naked vista was no problem at all. Very robust. I'm sure this will hold up. There have been lots of test so far and none with a fail. It shuts down automatically when it's too hot without air flow. If you are really planing a 3" toothpick and smaller like the pavo pico, a naked O3 makes total sence savin 18g. Thats like 20% all up weight saving. On a 250g build or bigger the benefit is less than 8% weight saving. On ultralight and small every gram counts
@@chrisbee5481exactly. I'm doing one right now for a Mob 8 03. Hoping to cut 25g off an 80g craft. I did a naked Vista on a 5-inch last year, just as an experiment, and it's been fine. It's never overheated on me, and as far as durability, I've had zero problems. The weight savings was so negligible on performance, that I added the weight back in LEDs..😅
The *easiest* and quickest way to remove the blue thermal conductant paste is to keep it dry at first, no alcohol. First I use a silicone wiper/crevice cleaner (or dry cotton swab,) to quickly wipe away the bulk of paste at the surface, roughly 1-3 wipes. Next, I use a nylon contoured bristle brush, DRY, and begin brushing the paste off, from edge to edge, in one direction and back in the opposite as needed. Do this over a towel or trash can. Vary your brush pressure and angle of attack to reach the varying depths of the board. The paste crumbles and brushes away when dry, instead of smearing all over like when it's wet with alcohol. Now switch it up and brush edge to edge, perpendicular to your first strokes. Work those bristles at different angles and pressure. I spend 60 to 90 seconds, leaving the board with only a very thin, superficial layer of paste, appearing very slightly cloudy. Rub thumb over the bristles of your brush to flick off any material. NOW pump a squirt of 90-95% isopropyl on the board and lightly scrub the remaining paste free. A couple more pumps of isopropyl to saturate the board and now dab up/gently wipe the board clean with a folded paper towel. I have more than 10 or 12 naked Vistas, and discovered this method around the 7th or 8th one. The PERFECT tool for this is the OXO small brush with wiper. It comes in a two brush kit called the OXO Good Grips Deep Clean Brush Set, on Amazon for $8.99. The silicone wiper is stiffer than others I've encountered, and is truly indispensable during builds, repairs, etc. You can push and shape heated Instamorph, setting hot glue, epoxy, etc., getting the material where you need it, or wiping it away from where you don't. Silicone stir sticks work similarly and are even better for particular applications. Anyway, see for yourself. Give the dry approach a shot, and I believe you'll agree it's much easier. Depending on the tools you use, it will be faster as well.
now planning to add a custom heatsink and a fan to O3 aIr unit to mount on some freestyle drones where the weight doesn't matter much, and also make a video on waterproofing these ripped O3 or the normal ones as well.
Hey Ian! Related sort of... wasn't there a chart that reflects the latency running various frame rates? I know 100 is the optimal but DaVinci seems to hate 100fps 4k 😂
hey, i have the o3 ultra and cant get it connected via usb , i have signal in the goggles but cant access the footage from the internal storage, you know what can i do ?
what ever became of two 5.8 antenna concern vs the single multi band factory antenna for the o3 unit. is there still channel switching for the o3 units ? Love to see the actual video results from this build, any loss of vibration insulation from the de cased set up ?
Great video Ian. I might have missed it, but what weight difference does making the camera naked make? Wondering whether it’s worth it as I’d have to buy the naked nd filters too. One other question, is there any reason why you wouldn’t add conformal coating?
For people who may have bought a drone with 03 lite already installed... is it safe to conformal coat any exposed pcb components and the pcb on the back of the camera module? Not that i intend on dunking it... but just incase it started raining whilst flying
Do you realise that those "shields" you took off are probably not simply heat shields? They're likely RF shields to block extraneous transmissions which would've not allowed the device to get approved for sale in the US?
@@MadRC I just thought it might be good to warn people that using an O3 VTX like this may be illegal... (Especially if people want to use it like this for commercial purposes then they may run into trouble.)
Just to confirm nothing here was provided for free. . I paid for both the Airunit and the Flywoo kit. This content was entirely created by me with zero input from anyone else.
PROBLEM: I also made an ultra light. But now I have a strange problem: during a steady flight everything is fine, but if I make sharp maneuvers - the video in the glasses slows down or even freezes for a second or two. Of course, this leads to a fall. The video that is recorded on the module is fine. The problem is with the video transmission. I think it is somehow connected with the removal of all the covers. I could assume that I made a mistake somewhere, but it is noticeable that TWO dji o3 behave this way, which I stripped naked. In this video, a comparison of the video from the glasses and from the module. For two different o3. I thought that perhaps the P1 cannot work without cooling, but I have seen many for whom it works perfectly. ua-cam.com/video/MazC1bxI3OA/v-deo.html Are there any ideas?
Oh yeah, so we can record the buzzing and whirling of the motors? With oversaturation of the audio so we have plenty of distortion from the mic clipping? WHY? Do you really expect to get decent audio? Of course, there's we the massive wind noise too! If you want audio so bad, why not just wire in an aux. mic? Plenty available for purchase. 99% of us don't bitch and moan about audio because we know how awful it would be! Why record all that noise? It doesn't make sense....
But dji is a well prepared shop regarding marketing and what people really want and love to pay for. If there would be a demand high enough to make it happen to create a second product out the current one, they would do so. But I bet you would also have expectations too like a lowered price which can kill the idea cause recording hardware is so cheap for them that it would not make sense to develope 2 differently populated boards. If the dji O3 live feed only would be offered at just a 20€ discount who would wanna buy that one compared to a 50€ discount which could increase the demand by 2 times but then would hurt dji's profits considering they might have costs for the recording of 15€ which would mean a loss of 35€ on the profits.
WHEN I CONVERTED MY DJI O3 INTO FLYWOO NAKED VERSION, NOW THE LIGHT STAYS GREEN AND DOES NOT LINK WITH THE GLASSES. DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO SOLVE THIS OR WHAT THE PROBLEM COULD BE?
@MadRC Whilst this is a very interesting mod,I think that the heat sink is there for a serious reason and removing it will cause problems. Looking forward for your further tests...
This changes everything! Including your already slim chance of DJI honoring a warranty claim. So I guess doesn't change the fact that it's still an unethical, crap company...
Sorry, the latest avatar V2 still turns the grass into green paint. O3 is a different league. ua-cam.com/video/c3mQc4Z6-Yk/v-deo.htmlsi=ZjbxJizSkVheIzEw
![☀ Самый маленький дрон с DJI O3. Камера + 4 мотора. [Flywoo FlyLens 85 2S]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rZASGdbnCMY/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi everyone, the part 2 thermal video will be release shortly and I will add a link here as well once done.
Furthermore I just wanted to add that this was not a sponsors video or even a review. I paid for both the Flywoo O3 kit and the DJI O3 Air Unit. This video was entirely conceived by me with zero input from Flywoo or anyone else.
great video! maybe make sense to add link here as well for part 2.
Did you ever do a thermal video?
Thank you Ian for doing the thermo video. That was my main concern, and you answered it upfront with a dedicated video. Thanks for including very detailed disassembly/assembly in this video, as it is a great reference.
"We're going to be using IPA for clean-up." - there's me thinking about microbrews for a sec! 😉🤣
Hahaha
Is possible to waterproofing it with fpv worry free? Could it cause overheating?
This is a great new opportunity, very nice ! Thanks for sharing 😁👍👍👍
5:03 - dji air unit: 34 gr.
28:49 - O3 ultra: 18 gr.
16 gr. saved or close to 50%
At the end I would doubt that dji has just added wait without any benefits we cut away with such ultra version and therefore the key question:
Are the benefits of 18 gr. worth the risks like overheating or faster aging of the componente due to higher heat considering dji will no longer provide any warranty?
I have my doubts and would try to save weight rather on other parts than on a 250€ - 300€ in total O3 air unit cut down to an O3 ultra.
Yes, the result is really impressive by weight savings, but I would rahter sit and wait a year to see what that might cause on such ultra air units cause for me the air units are still quite expensive pieces I can not afford to replace every year.
And I am the fixed wing guy where I do not really have to take so much care about weight except in those cases where the CG is out of range.
But usually I prefer the genuine untouched dji air unit with all its glory and flaws from the factory line even though I can understand why people wanna try to cut away and lower weight.
The naked vista was no problem at all. Very robust.
I'm sure this will hold up. There have been lots of test so far and none with a fail. It shuts down automatically when it's too hot without air flow.
If you are really planing a 3" toothpick and smaller like the pavo pico, a naked O3 makes total sence savin 18g.
Thats like 20% all up weight saving. On a 250g build or bigger the benefit is less than 8% weight saving. On ultralight and small every gram counts
@@chrisbee5481exactly. I'm doing one right now for a Mob 8 03. Hoping to cut 25g off an 80g craft.
I did a naked Vista on a 5-inch last year, just as an experiment, and it's been fine. It's never overheated on me, and as far as durability, I've had zero problems.
The weight savings was so negligible on performance, that I added the weight back in LEDs..😅
The *easiest* and quickest way to remove the blue thermal conductant paste is to keep it dry at first, no alcohol. First I use a silicone wiper/crevice cleaner (or dry cotton swab,) to quickly wipe away the bulk of paste at the surface, roughly 1-3 wipes. Next, I use a nylon contoured bristle brush, DRY, and begin brushing the paste off, from edge to edge, in one direction and back in the opposite as needed. Do this over a towel or trash can. Vary your brush pressure and angle of attack to reach the varying depths of the board. The paste crumbles and brushes away when dry, instead of smearing all over like when it's wet with alcohol. Now switch it up and brush edge to edge, perpendicular to your first strokes. Work those bristles at different angles and pressure. I spend 60 to 90 seconds, leaving the board with only a very thin, superficial layer of paste, appearing very slightly cloudy. Rub thumb over the bristles of your brush to flick off any material. NOW pump a squirt of 90-95% isopropyl on the board and lightly scrub the remaining paste free. A couple more pumps of isopropyl to saturate the board and now dab up/gently wipe the board clean with a folded paper towel. I have more than 10 or 12 naked Vistas, and discovered this method around the 7th or 8th one. The PERFECT tool for this is the OXO small brush with wiper. It comes in a two brush kit called the OXO Good Grips Deep Clean Brush Set, on Amazon for $8.99. The silicone wiper is stiffer than others I've encountered, and is truly indispensable during builds, repairs, etc. You can push and shape heated Instamorph, setting hot glue, epoxy, etc., getting the material where you need it, or wiping it away from where you don't. Silicone stir sticks work similarly and are even better for particular applications.
Anyway, see for yourself. Give the dry approach a shot, and I believe you'll agree it's much easier. Depending on the tools you use, it will be faster as well.
Thank you! Haven’t tried it yet but I will take all cheat codes I can get!
Thanks Ian!
Great video. Any chance on doing a quick clip on how you installed the light unit on the Pavo Pico?
Cheers,
Sam
Many thanks for the video. Great job as usual. ❤
I want to know if the removal of shelding cover cause some issue to the gps signal, also what about the heat dissipating?
It will overheat and automatically shut down in around 3 to 4 minutes. But it will be fine during flight due to air flow when quad moving
does this kit change the form factor very much?
thanks for the help I'm doing mine now but putting it in the mob 8
now planning to add a custom heatsink and a fan to O3 aIr unit to mount on some freestyle drones where the weight doesn't matter much, and also make a video on waterproofing these ripped O3 or the normal ones as well.
Hey Ian! Related sort of... wasn't there a chart that reflects the latency running various frame rates? I know 100 is the optimal but DaVinci seems to hate 100fps 4k 😂
Thank you Ian, excellent content!
hey, i have the o3 ultra and cant get it connected via usb , i have signal in the goggles but cant access the footage from the internal storage, you know what can i do ?
how to remove glue on ribbon cable?
what ever became of two 5.8 antenna concern vs the single multi band factory antenna for the o3 unit. is there still channel switching for the o3 units ?
Love to see the actual video results from this build, any loss of vibration insulation from the de cased set up ?
Great video once again
Have you tried fitting it in the pavo pico after the mod?
Do you know, what chipset DJI is using for their O4 system on the Air 3? The drone has been out a while, so maybe you might have some insights now :)
Great video Ian. I might have missed it, but what weight difference does making the camera naked make?
Wondering whether it’s worth it as I’d have to buy the naked nd filters too.
One other question, is there any reason why you wouldn’t add conformal coating?
For people who may have bought a drone with 03 lite already installed... is it safe to conformal coat any exposed pcb components and the pcb on the back of the camera module? Not that i intend on dunking it... but just incase it started raining whilst flying
thats what I want to do with pavo pico as soon as i get flywhoo kit. what kind of washers did you put for camera?
I wish they’d made one of these for the vista.
What antennas are those?
They came with the Pavo Pico
Do you realise that those "shields" you took off are probably not simply heat shields? They're likely RF shields to block extraneous transmissions which would've not allowed the device to get approved for sale in the US?
Yes, but that’s the same for the outside casing as well. I am well aware of the RF implications and have a video testing this shortly.
@@MadRC I just thought it might be good to warn people that using an O3 VTX like this may be illegal... (Especially if people want to use it like this for commercial purposes then they may run into trouble.)
is this of concern?
Great video. However I'm not going to risk a crash and kill my o3.😅
Gota love free stuff
Just to confirm nothing here was provided for free. . I paid for both the Airunit and the Flywoo kit.
This content was entirely created by me with zero input from anyone else.
My naked DjI action2 is 14g
picture/video or it did not happen ;-)
@@eyeflytinkerings Are you in the Naked cinewhoop group?
I have to let them have their fun!
Can’t crush the “Dream””
PROBLEM: I also made an ultra light. But now I have a strange problem: during a steady flight everything is fine, but if I make sharp maneuvers - the video in the glasses slows down or even freezes for a second or two. Of course, this leads to a fall. The video that is recorded on the module is fine. The problem is with the video transmission. I think it is somehow connected with the removal of all the covers. I could assume that I made a mistake somewhere, but it is noticeable that TWO dji o3 behave this way, which I stripped naked.
In this video, a comparison of the video from the glasses and from the module. For two different o3. I thought that perhaps the P1 cannot work without cooling, but I have seen many for whom it works perfectly.
ua-cam.com/video/MazC1bxI3OA/v-deo.html
Are there any ideas?
have you solved?
The major downside of the O3 for me is the low light performance which is a real shame.
thanks for not adding audio again dji
Oh yeah, so we can record the buzzing and whirling of the motors? With oversaturation of the audio so we have plenty of distortion from the mic clipping?
WHY? Do you really expect to get decent audio? Of course, there's we the massive wind noise too! If you want audio so bad, why not just wire in an aux. mic? Plenty available for purchase.
99% of us don't bitch and moan about audio because we know how awful it would be! Why record all that noise? It doesn't make sense....
you aren't the 99% noob, but thanks for your input.
Dry brush the blue compound with a toothbrush, its cleaner and without leaving any residue
Dax has been doin this since they came out hes tha man if u wanna better kit
It’s definitely not better!! 😂😂😂🤫
DJI should release O3 Lite version without recording. Many of us love to fly and do not care about recording our footage. F
I’d go for that 👍🏻
But dji is a well prepared shop regarding marketing and what people really want and love to pay for.
If there would be a demand high enough to make it happen to create a second product out the current one, they would do so.
But I bet you would also have expectations too like a lowered price which can kill the idea cause recording hardware is so cheap for them that it would not make sense to develope 2 differently populated boards.
If the dji O3 live feed only would be offered at just a 20€ discount who would wanna buy that one compared to a 50€ discount which could increase the demand by 2 times but then would hurt dji's profits considering they might have costs for the recording of 15€ which would mean a loss of 35€ on the profits.
WHEN I CONVERTED MY DJI O3 INTO FLYWOO NAKED VERSION, NOW THE LIGHT STAYS GREEN AND DOES NOT LINK WITH THE GLASSES.
DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO SOLVE THIS OR WHAT THE PROBLEM COULD BE?
did you fix it?
Can someone please give us 10 minutes of flight time....jeez on a copter under 250g with HD with no Remote ID. It will sell more than beer.
TOOTHBRUSH is the best for removing the blue s**t IMO.
I have some custom titanium M2 x M1.6 x 30mm main screws and M1.6 nylon standoffs made for my O3 toothpick.
That way, you don't have to drill out and damage the O3 board corners. It is stronger and lighter than using a nylon frame.
just look up "titanium toothpick O3"
on the site that starts with the word e and ends with the word bay.
"titanium toothpick O3"
Junk
Damaging of the o3 air unit is 100% guaranteed with this mod.
It’s really no different to avatar or HDZero at this point. It still has its shielding around the outside.
@MadRC Whilst this is a very interesting mod,I think that the heat sink is there for a serious reason and removing it will cause problems.
Looking forward for your further tests...
@stst8301 modern VTXs all tend to have temperature protection
@lievenvv I know,but its good pushing the components to the limit?
Like 3165
This changes everything! Including your already slim chance of DJI honoring a warranty claim. So I guess doesn't change the fact that it's still an unethical, crap company...
There really is no warranty on any of the VTX or Airunits. The chances of a warranty failure is close to zero with these.
@@MadRC another reason to skip DJI products
Changes nothing. Walksnail is life. Dji sucks
Sorry, the latest avatar V2 still turns the grass into green paint. O3 is a different league. ua-cam.com/video/c3mQc4Z6-Yk/v-deo.htmlsi=ZjbxJizSkVheIzEw
Lmao walksnail fuckn sucks stutters to much and is not reliable at all