Thanks for the heads-up about the susceptibility of the strip to magnetic damage. I speculate that some of the residual problems just about everybody appears to be experiencing could be due to magnetisation of the ferrous components of the lathe: get a strong enough local field and you'll overwhelm the pattern imprinted into the strip, and that will show up particularly badly where the strip overhangs e.g. the crossslide with an aluminium support. They're currently (late '24) being sold at an exceptionally attractive price...
Putting a DTI with a magnetic base right next to the strip probably wasn't the best idea I have ever had! Since I moved to the other type (the caliper style ones) I haven't had any issues. I thing proper glass type scales would be even better and more accurate but mounting them on a small lathe like mine is tricky.
@@asciimation I've just put an Emco Basic SL on a stool well away from anything else magnetic, and can confirm that there are areas with very strong residual magnetisation after a magnetic DTI base has been used on it. I've not tried degaussing it, but it's probably bad enough to make a watchmaker unhappy. The upshot is that while this probably wouldn't affect magnetic strip applied uniformly to e.g. the lathe bed, it would almost certainly mess things up where- for example- the strip was near to (or crossed) an edge, e.g. your original aluminium support arm. Reluctantly, I have to conclude that these are NBG except possibly for woodworking tools made out of light alloys or for the toy Unimats and their clones as "young machinists' training wheels". There's obviously cheap DRO heads intended for glass sensors with quadrature outputs, but the sensors themselves are quite a lot more expensive and are probably more difficult to tailor to a small lathe. There's also been various "homebrew" attempts, some of which are based on repurposed digital calipers. Particularly notable is www.touchdro.com/ since it goes into detail of various data formats, I don't know whether the cheap Chinese calipers and DTI use the same format but for an example of the latter hackaday.com/2024/07/17/digitally-reading-a-micrometers-output Finally I'd note that hackaday.com/2021/08/05/custom-caliper-tracks-for-when-youre-going-the-distance demonstrates that custom lengths can be easily made using standard PCB technology.
I noted that folks are still responding to this video so I thought I would too. Thanks so much for making sense of the instructions for me. Now that I understand their Chinglish protocol its much more readable. On mine I have two variables that you didn''t have. First is that the correction factor as you calculated it didn't work. I had to fiddle with it for an hour, finally got it to where I could live with the tiny inaccuracy. Second is on the B axis I get poor repeatability. Zero the DRO, zero the dial, roll the carriage forward 300mm then back to zero, wind it back to 300mm (accounting for lash) and get a variation that is different every time I try it. Don't know how to fix this.
cannot see why you needed that bracket sticking out the back , I mounted mine in the bed gap at the front , nothing sticking out at all and interfering with nothing, small piece of ally extrusion above the strip to keep the swarf off
I had the same problem which i solved. Set your work piece in the lathe, bring cutting tool to where you will begin cutting. Dial in the P1-01 setting for X axis set values to zero and save. Do the same for Y axis P2-01 and save. Your read out should now be at 0 for X zero for Y... Documentation for this product is limited you have to figure everything on your own...
You have very kindly highlited a flaw in the system, now how does on overcome this???? Does one need to place a electromagnetic screen around the device like copper mesh, covering sqy a aluminium channel section that then covers the strip and sensor, One often needs to use a clock or fingure gauge with a quick release magentic base and we dont need this being a regular occurance When useing a QRM on and edm device one always insulates the base from the table with just a piece of paper but that was to prevent the system electronics travelling through the dial gauge It would be interesting to know the solution, surely the manufacturers know about this, Do we assume because its magnetic strip ...never use on metal lathe ????
I gave up in the end I am afraid. It could just be I was trying to do it on the cheap so the ones I got weren't very good. I changed to the caliper kind and those have been working fine (so far)!
Great! 've got an Emco lathe with almost the same castings / base Very inspirational video. Can you tell me how these magnetic strip hold up until now? Are they working reliable?
Thank you! How could you set it up so precisely? I could not get! There is not a single word about this in my instructions. Please share information if possible. Thanks again.
The problem is it isn't precise. I found it skips in places. I don't have the instructions in front of me but there is a setting where you can put in a correct factor if the measurements don't match reality. I compared the measurements on the handwheel over a full travel to what the DRO said and adjusted the scale appropriately.
I bought one of these for my lathe after watching this video. Only problem is my didn’t come with any instructions. I don’t suppose you could post a photo of your instructions could you please.
No, the problem at the end was the magnetic tapes just aren't very good. I think tried 3 different ones in the end and they were all glitchy. I don't think there is anything weird on the lathe (like being magnetised) as they were glitchy off the lathe too.
@@asciimation did you solve the problem changing the magnetic tapes? i have exactly the same problem and i don't know if to throw everything in the garbage or give a try with replacing the tapes.....
@@akka4751I tried three in the end, and different parts of the tapes too and I always had the problem. I am going to replace the magnet tape type with the caliper type ones instead. I just haven't had a chance to do/film that yet.
Maybe? That could be what's wrong but the instructions don't mention that. The long one is mounted straight to the cast iron bed and that one seemed to be more accurate.
I found it very unreliable. That could have just been me doing something wrong but I suspect there are better options. My mill was big enough to fit a proper glass scale DRO and it works very well. My mill is smaller so I have some new caliper style DROs to try instead.
Great video I bought the same have just fitted so will let you know how it goes but looks good so far. I fitted the strips inside a piece of aluminium channel, so crossed fingers. I set the A as my X travel and was set to 2 on the compensation so reads as a diameter measurement. Seriously I have my fingers crossed lol
I am annoyed I couldn't get mine to work right. I should do an new film on the new DROs I have now. They are Shahe Dro's (from Amazon I think is where I got them). Maybe I can fit them this weekend. Looks like the weather will be bad so a good inside job to do.
Thank you very much for your recognition of our product!
Thanks for the heads-up about the susceptibility of the strip to magnetic damage. I speculate that some of the residual problems just about everybody appears to be experiencing could be due to magnetisation of the ferrous components of the lathe: get a strong enough local field and you'll overwhelm the pattern imprinted into the strip, and that will show up particularly badly where the strip overhangs e.g. the crossslide with an aluminium support.
They're currently (late '24) being sold at an exceptionally attractive price...
Putting a DTI with a magnetic base right next to the strip probably wasn't the best idea I have ever had! Since I moved to the other type (the caliper style ones) I haven't had any issues. I thing proper glass type scales would be even better and more accurate but mounting them on a small lathe like mine is tricky.
@@asciimation I've just put an Emco Basic SL on a stool well away from anything else magnetic, and can confirm that there are areas with very strong residual magnetisation after a magnetic DTI base has been used on it. I've not tried degaussing it, but it's probably bad enough to make a watchmaker unhappy.
The upshot is that while this probably wouldn't affect magnetic strip applied uniformly to e.g. the lathe bed, it would almost certainly mess things up where- for example- the strip was near to (or crossed) an edge, e.g. your original aluminium support arm.
Reluctantly, I have to conclude that these are NBG except possibly for woodworking tools made out of light alloys or for the toy Unimats and their clones as "young machinists' training wheels".
There's obviously cheap DRO heads intended for glass sensors with quadrature outputs, but the sensors themselves are quite a lot more expensive and are probably more difficult to tailor to a small lathe.
There's also been various "homebrew" attempts, some of which are based on repurposed digital calipers. Particularly notable is www.touchdro.com/ since it goes into detail of various data formats, I don't know whether the cheap Chinese calipers and DTI use the same format but for an example of the latter hackaday.com/2024/07/17/digitally-reading-a-micrometers-output
Finally I'd note that hackaday.com/2021/08/05/custom-caliper-tracks-for-when-youre-going-the-distance demonstrates that custom lengths can be easily made using standard PCB technology.
I noted that folks are still responding to this video so I thought I would too. Thanks so much for making sense of the instructions for me. Now that I understand their Chinglish protocol its much more readable. On mine I have two variables that you didn''t have. First is that the correction factor as you calculated it didn't work. I had to fiddle with it for an hour, finally got it to where I could live with the tiny inaccuracy. Second is on the B axis I get poor repeatability. Zero the DRO, zero the dial, roll the carriage forward 300mm then back to zero, wind it back to 300mm (accounting for lash) and get a variation that is different every time I try it. Don't know how to fix this.
I never did get mine to work right and gave up in the end.
and don't forget to set the X axis with P11 to a factor of 2 so that it measures the diameter and not just the radius.
That is an extremely good point! But I think it can vary from lathe to lathe if the dials show radius or diameter?
Does anyone have the User's Guide in pdf? My DRO came with no manual. Tnx.
The threaded hole at 5:29 on mine holds a bolt which locks the cross slide movement which is almost essential for milling but of less use for turning.
Ah, thank you, that makes sense. There is a similar bolt hole on the carriage to lock that with a 6mm bolt in it.
cannot see why you needed that bracket sticking out the back , I mounted mine in the bed gap at the front , nothing sticking out at all and interfering with nothing, small piece of ally extrusion above the strip to keep the swarf off
Great video. Thanks for showing your troubleshooting of the issue too. Personally, that would have taken me an age to figure out.
The new tape arrive today so hopefully this weekend I can see if that fixes it!
is posible get zero in the all axis ??? in the other dro only push x or y button get a zero axis , in this dro how is ????
I had the same problem which i solved. Set your work piece in the lathe, bring cutting tool to where you will begin cutting. Dial in the P1-01 setting for X axis set values to zero and save. Do the same for Y axis P2-01 and save. Your read out should now be at 0 for X zero for Y... Documentation for this product is limited you have to figure everything on your own...
É possível aumentar o cabo de ligação entre o sensor e o display para 8 metros
You have very kindly highlited a flaw in the system, now how does on overcome this???? Does one need to place a electromagnetic screen around the device like copper mesh, covering sqy a aluminium channel section that then covers the strip and sensor,
One often needs to use a clock or fingure gauge with a quick release magentic base and we dont need this being a regular occurance
When useing a QRM on and edm device one always insulates the base from the table with just a piece of paper but that was to prevent the system electronics travelling through the dial gauge
It would be interesting to know the solution, surely the manufacturers know about this,
Do we assume because its magnetic strip ...never use on metal lathe ????
I gave up in the end I am afraid. It could just be I was trying to do it on the cheap so the ones I got weren't very good. I changed to the caliper kind and those have been working fine (so far)!
Great! 've got an Emco lathe with almost the same castings / base
Very inspirational video. Can you tell me how these magnetic strip hold up until now? Are they working reliable?
No, they are terrible! If you watch more of my films you'll see. I am replacing them at some point with a different style of DRO actually.
@@asciimation Thanks! Good to know!
Thank you! How could you set it up so precisely? I could not get! There is not a single word about this in my instructions. Please share information if possible. Thanks again.
The problem is it isn't precise. I found it skips in places. I don't have the instructions in front of me but there is a setting where you can put in a correct factor if the measurements don't match reality. I compared the measurements on the handwheel over a full travel to what the DRO said and adjusted the scale appropriately.
@@asciimation Can you tell me how to calculate the correcr factor? Thank you.
I bought one of these for my lathe after watching this video. Only problem is my didn’t come with any instructions. I don’t suppose you could post a photo of your instructions could you please.
I'll have to try to find them. They were a little tricky to follow. Sometimes Aliexpress listings will have the instructions on them.
@@asciimation don't worry mine was faulty so I am going to return it and buy something else.. Thanks anyway
Você calibrou? P1 + 3 ?
the problem at the end apart from the magnetic base of the dti was the aluminium plate???? i didn't understand
No, the problem at the end was the magnetic tapes just aren't very good. I think tried 3 different ones in the end and they were all glitchy. I don't think there is anything weird on the lathe (like being magnetised) as they were glitchy off the lathe too.
@@asciimation did you solve the problem changing the magnetic tapes? i have exactly the same problem and i don't know if to throw everything in the garbage or give a try with replacing the tapes.....
@@akka4751I tried three in the end, and different parts of the tapes too and I always had the problem. I am going to replace the magnet tape type with the caliper type ones instead. I just haven't had a chance to do/film that yet.
I am switching to these: www.amazon.com/SHAHE-Digital-Readout-Linear-Scale/dp/B089ZSG84J?th=1
I always thought the strip had to be an inch or so away from the steel bed on a a length of extruded aluminium
Maybe? That could be what's wrong but the instructions don't mention that. The long one is mounted straight to the cast iron bed and that one seemed to be more accurate.
@@asciimation 👍
or the m2 sensor screw
Seems strange that they don’t make it for mains power
The batteries are for memory backup I think. It has a 12 volt power input so I just used a wall plug type supply.
Thanx for showing info
Im fitting a mill with the s/s tape, do you find it ok cheers thanx
I found it very unreliable. That could have just been me doing something wrong but I suspect there are better options. My mill was big enough to fit a proper glass scale DRO and it works very well. My mill is smaller so I have some new caliper style DROs to try instead.
@@asciimation If you notice all the more expensive units have shielded cable, me thinks possible electrical interference
@@MichaelKilpatrick-su1ys Yes, definitely a possibility.
I have a warco Mill with magnet strip I have had the mill 4 years , use it at least 3 days a week ,never had any problem whatsover .
Great video I bought the same have just fitted so will let you know how it goes but looks good so far. I fitted the strips inside a piece of aluminium channel, so crossed fingers. I set the A as my X travel and was set to 2 on the compensation so reads as a diameter measurement. Seriously I have my fingers crossed lol
thanks for the video
I am annoyed I couldn't get mine to work right. I should do an new film on the new DROs I have now. They are Shahe Dro's (from Amazon I think is where I got them). Maybe I can fit them this weekend. Looks like the weather will be bad so a good inside job to do.