DODGE 5.2L 5.9L V8 MAGNUM Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2019
- In this video we show the DODGE 5.2L 5.9L V8 MAGNUM Valve Cover Gasket Replacement procedure that you can do yourself with some simple hand tools. This video is a DIY fix to leaking valve cover gaskets if your engine is leaking from the corners of the valve covers. This is a common oil leak on all 5.2 L and 5.9 L V8 Magnum Dodge engines. The OEM gaskets are prone to leaking and upgraded Fel-Pro gaskets are an improvement to prevent this issue from happening in the future. This job is fairly quick and you can see how replaced the gaskets in this step by step video on the Dodge Dakota R/T Pickup truck but this will be the same procedure for a Dodge Dakota and other vehicles such as a Dodge RAM or Jeep with the same engine.
#Dodge #Mopar #DIY
*HERE ARE THE FEL-PRO VALVE COVER GASKETS WE USED*
amzn.to/2O1VvWg
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DJ Quads - Intersection / dj-quads-intersection-...
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Due to factors beyond the control of Boosted Motorsports, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Boosted Motorsports assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Boosted Motorsports recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Boosted Motorsports, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Boosted Motorsports. - Авто та транспорт
I actually just got my '97 3.9l Dakota Sport back up and running today, glad I get chill out, and watch your videos after getting annoyed at changing parts in terrible spots.. Had to run a 3/8ths ratchet + a joint + a small 3 in extension + a 3/8ths to 1/2 adapter + 1/2 joint, and finally, a deep socket meant for the part that's about 27mm.. All because I lost my 8 in extension T.T
The studs on the valve covers are there to accommodate accessories, like plug wire brackets.
You can turn the nut on the stud, farther up the stud to allow a longer thread engagement into the head, that is equal to the other bolts, holding cover on.
Could be a misadjustment from the the factory, imho. Very informative video! THANKS 😄
I got a 98 ram 1500 with the 318, gonna be pulling the plenum,(intake), this weekend to correct the inherrent two piece plenum lower plate gasket failure. Checked it out couple days ago when the 'money light' came on, coded it and was excessive number of crossfire on cyl. 8. New plugs fixed that but went a bit further and checked for the plenum leakage, had 8-10# of vaccumn in the crankcase, thats a no-no. For a future reference on bolt lengths though, correct max hold power of any bolt in a 'blind hole application is 1-1/2 times the diameter of the bolt....longer is ok if the hole is deep enough but not nessecery. I'm not trying to be a smartass or anything but I spent 16 years as an industrial hydraulics tech/engineer. I built heavy hydraulic power units and the machinery they powered for the offshore oil/gas industry. Everything had to be documented, tested to ISO 9001 standards..... Been in a forced retirement now for 5-1/2 years due to fighting and DEFEATING stage 3 lung cancer but the chemo and radiation did a number on me. But hey, I'm still around after the doctors had given me 'about 90 days',. Just wish I was still physically fit to be back working, doing what I loved. I was a big mopar guy back in the 60's an early 70's then became a chevy fan but I got the little ram from one of my friends at work cheap about 7 years ago. Like it lots. While I was recovering from the treatments I took my time, did all the body work, hand sanded down to the zinc coat by hand,(that was a chore for sure,lol), truck is primed, just waiting on my sorry butt to put the top color coat on it but got the code light and decided to take care of that before the final paint so maybe save a scratch on new paint digging around under the hood. Guess I'm back to liking on the mopar's, lol. Got a few things in mind for it down the road. Never been the type guy to leave something alone....been told I got motor oil for blood many times, what can I say. I just like tinkering stuff to the max......
The area under the valve covers looked really clean. A good sign that the engine was maintained. Looking forward to future mods to the engine. Keep up the good work!
I think this motor has been rebuilt or replaced at some point would be my guess cause it’s definitely been removed before the harness and fuel lines are kind of dangling and need to be tied back up and the front crank seal looks super new and blue in color
Yay! We are wrenching! I learn a lot from you John. Thanks!
Looking forward to it, you always make everything look easy
I could wrench along side this fella any day. Real down to earth car guy! I did the content!
Real genuine guy, love the build and the channel man keep it up!!
Thanks for the support I truly appreciate it 🙌
The build is moving fast. Carlos Soria checking in
Can’t wait to see this truck rip!
Careful removing the passenger side (front / top) valve cover bolt with the battery connected. It is possible to bump the hot on the alternator and get a little spark (ask me how I know).
Also if you’re wondering about that location of your cruise control, it has been relocated out of the way for the K&N.
Lmao I did the same thing
I really appreciate the informational and instructional way this video is put together !
Thanks brother! Trying to separate the ‘vlog’ style vids from these specific repair videos where someone just wants to cut straight to the fix/repair and get back on the road 💪🤟
@@BoostedMotorsports I think that's a really good idea! Keep up the great work man! I can't wait to see how it does on the track or even as a daily
Thx mann!!
Awesome vids....I have a 2015 ram sport and just found your channel and have been binge watching all the mods...on your ram did the engine knock on on start up some times?
Totally rockx homie... \m/
How did you secure the spark plug wires?
I did this yesterday. Hey good job but how do the valves inside can get clean? Mines were full of gunk
So do the the aftermarket valve covers just for looks or do they help a bit ?
Dodge 2500 pickup. 5.9 ltr. 360 engine. Replacing head gaskets. Bolts look good. Should I replace head bolts or reuse
Would you have to drain the engine oil before all of this or no?
Do we have to adjust valves on these 5.2 V8 magnums?
Where did u buy your headlight from
Do those bolts work on a 97 Dakota? It has stock studs im planing on changing valve cover gasket due to leaks
U can number the wirers with marke
Anyone know where I can get those valve covers? Thanks.
How many studs were there total (minus yourself, of course)? I've got the same issue with mine and I don't know why they feel the need to make things complicated.
Im working on my truck with the 5.9 magnum. What else would you recommend doing to it? I have an aftermarket intake, throttle body and catback. Ive heard the stock air box is very restrictive.
magnum engine, blue steel paint - this truck is zoolander. nice vid
😂🤟
I have a question I used valve covers from 1998 durango 5.9 they fit my 01 rt dakota but the only diffrence is that the oil cap is now on the passenger side valve cover is that ok ?
Should be
Was hoping too see some 1.7 harland sharp roller rockers under then haha
Oh man wouldn’t that be awesome to find!
My stock valve cover on driver side has a screw top oil filler cap. Wanted to know if the air breather cap for those after market valve covers, effect the idle or performance of the motor ? Thanks.
As long as you have the breather hose connected from the breather to the air intake box, then it shouldn’t. If you convert to an open air breather filter, meaning no connection to the box, then it could effect the idle since you’d be causing a vacuum leak
Find a m1 intake manifold.Flows better than stock and eliminates the belly pan where the gasket fails and sucks up oil
Because my dodge Dakota has those same studs but that’s why I’m asking so I could also install the ones you mentioned I’m going with stock valve cover
Do I have to drain the oil first?
No not needed!
We’re did u get the valve covers from
Same question
you should really install some baffles in those covers. it's going to consume a lot of oil. also try to install the breather hose and pcv to the fronts. it's less likely to consume oil setup this way. use the filler cap on the pass rear and a plug on the drivers rear.
i fabricated my own full length baffles, otherwise they have partial baffles available for those covers.
Check your pcm and see if its original. A lot of people replaced with the upgraded mopar pcm from the dealership.
Any idea where it would indicate it’s an upgraded PCM? I haven’t researched it yet but it’s definitely possible as there are a bunch of upgrades on this thing and even one of the clips on the pcm is broken
BoostedMotorsports I believe the part number for the mopar is P5007107. Should be sticker somewhere on the unit
BoostedMotorsports if your planning on doing a bunch of bolt on’s I wouldn’t worry about it to much. I would’ve it tuned with sct tuner by flying Ryan performance. He’s number 1 in nation for our trucks.
@@jwilkins1121 hemifever is sorry
Remove the evap, install a resistor in the harness and that kind of cleans up that back wall, then down below under the truck just install a small breather in the line
Rob Roy if you go on Dakotart.com a lot of us have posted on there , How to’s or just do a search , my dakota username is “blackknight”
If u were near me I'd have u do my5.9. I'm to lazy
Do i need to empty the oil to remove the covers?
Same question
No
Don't you mean 3/8 drive? And 11 mm. not 7/16, all this is metric
skips the best part....wth