When removing the Flow Rite push button valves it is better to use a compact pipe cutter through the body of the valve. The pipe cutter will halve the plastic valve and the remaining serrated ring can be snipped off the pipe. The pipe remains unblemished and ready for the new valve. In my limited experience, pulling and twisting on CPVC piping can lead to broken piping and more work. A lot of piping is not securely attached to structure and that too can lead to problems. Just my opinion. Take care.
Yanking that hard on CPVC is begging for trouble. I bet a lot of people who watch this end up tearing out the back of their vanity/wall to replace the elbow joint they cracked by playing tug-of-war with a 20-year-old fitting that was poorly glued to start: -)
re: 3:30 It is a 'sink or basin wrench'. (as you mention later) re:3:55 Don't use a pipe wrench on a nut (damaging & sloppy), use a crescent or open-end wrench. re: 6:55 There is a "T" or elbow inside the wall. Pulling hard or suddenly on it can cause invisible leaks inside the wall (very bad). I recommend squaring the end of the pipe with a flat file or rasp, and smooth with sandpaper. re 8:40 Avoid 'push' connections when you cannot be sure to hold the other end of the pipe! re 10:30 Remove the escutcheon before smearing the solvent around. re 12:00 Replace the shield, and use it (slide it hard to one side) to grip the pipe against the drywall while applying the connection. re 12:40 He is probably complaining because he did not close the can. re 12:50 To avoid the tight kinks in the feed line, dry-fit it and decide on a better routing (as on the cold line), or orientation of the valve outlet. It might fit better, aimed downward or to one side, rather than straight up as shown. (as you mention 14:50) . Sugg. leave a cardboard on the 'floor' to reveal any slow leaks. Consider a Leak-Alarm anywhere you have hoses or fittings that could leak so you can hear when any floor area gets soaked, before the whole room gets flooded.
Thanks for posting...It looks like you can throw a loop in that line if you don’t feel like purchasing a shorter waterline... Oh....just finished watching the rest of your video. Looks like you made the improvement on the right side :-)
Often, I can buy time to buy the parts, by just giving the valve a smack with a rubber mallet, temporarily re-seating the seal. I also wipe it dry and spray the area with Pam to protect the drywall & woodwork. To save the last inch of pipe, use a (wire) saw to take off the head (cut where the hidden end of the pipe is), then use a knife or pipe scissor to cut along the length of the cup (which is now just a short tube) on both sides, and it peels off the pipe with relatively little damage to the end of the pipe sticking out of the wall.
That hose is a commercial type, hard to find. You have to replace that hose, it does not screw off from the shut off valve. There is a video explaining this. Good day.
If that new GLUED valve fails, the next person is gonna have a harder job. They are going to have to cut that pipe coming out of the wall, and left with a small piece of pipe stub sticking out of the wall 😳
I came to this vid looking for the answer to that, he didn't mentioned it but, the vid shows the valve itself and it reads on its top side (or front) clearly "pull to shut off" or something like that
To turn off water on the plastic pop valve, think of it like trying to gently pop the cap straight off of a mushroom. Don’t twist. The cap will only move a few millimeters. Push it back towards the stem to turn the water back on.
Very well explained! It took me a while to find out a movie to replace this type of connector. Very helpful!
Great video, easy to follow and clear verbal instructions. Thanks!
Thank you for the video. It was just as easy as you showed. It was so helpful!!!
When removing the Flow Rite push button valves it is better to use a compact pipe cutter through the body of the valve. The pipe cutter will halve the plastic valve and the remaining serrated ring can be snipped off the pipe. The pipe remains unblemished and ready for the new valve. In my limited experience, pulling and twisting on CPVC piping can lead to broken piping and more work. A lot of piping is not securely attached to structure and that too can lead to problems. Just my opinion. Take care.
Good tip, thank you!
Yanking that hard on CPVC is begging for trouble. I bet a lot of people who watch this end up tearing out the back of their vanity/wall to replace the elbow joint they cracked by playing tug-of-war with a 20-year-old fitting that was poorly glued to start: -)
Yeah I saw another video where someone used a pipe cutter , I have to replace the hose on my toilet and I’m gonna go that route
If your builder is using Accor valves, you KNOW he's taking shortcuts everywhere he can..
Absolutely!!
no doubt.
re: 3:30 It is a 'sink or basin wrench'. (as you mention later)
re:3:55 Don't use a pipe wrench on a nut (damaging & sloppy), use a crescent or open-end wrench.
re: 6:55 There is a "T" or elbow inside the wall. Pulling hard or suddenly on it can cause invisible leaks inside the wall (very bad). I recommend squaring the end of the pipe with a flat file or rasp, and smooth with sandpaper.
re 8:40 Avoid 'push' connections when you cannot be sure to hold the other end of the pipe!
re 10:30 Remove the escutcheon before smearing the solvent around.
re 12:00 Replace the shield, and use it (slide it hard to one side) to grip the pipe against the drywall while applying the connection.
re 12:40 He is probably complaining because he did not close the can.
re 12:50 To avoid the tight kinks in the feed line, dry-fit it and decide on a better routing (as on the cold line), or orientation of the valve outlet. It might fit better, aimed downward or to one side, rather than straight up as shown. (as you mention 14:50)
. Sugg. leave a cardboard on the 'floor' to reveal any slow leaks. Consider a Leak-Alarm anywhere you have hoses or fittings that could leak so you can hear when any floor area gets soaked, before the whole room gets flooded.
Good tips. Any suggestions on shortening the 6 hour drying time?
Thanks for posting...It looks like you can throw a loop in that line if you don’t feel like purchasing a shorter waterline...
Oh....just finished watching the rest of your video. Looks like you made the improvement on the right side :-)
Thank you!
Yeah he got to it
Great video, just want I needed to repair my half bath.
Thanksgiving 🙏🏻 for info💛
Often, I can buy time to buy the parts, by just giving the valve a smack with a rubber mallet, temporarily re-seating the seal. I also wipe it dry and spray the area with Pam to protect the drywall & woodwork.
To save the last inch of pipe, use a (wire) saw to take off the head (cut where the hidden end of the pipe is), then use a knife or pipe scissor to cut along the length of the cup (which is now just a short tube) on both sides, and it peels off the pipe with relatively little damage to the end of the pipe sticking out of the wall.
thanks for sharing.
You did a good job but when you tighten the flex line, hand tight plus half a turn and your good
13:19 Guy where did you get those new shut off valves where is it sold from I have one of those in my house.
I see you cut that hose off in order to remove the valve. But I need to replace my hose do you know if it unscrews off the valve where you cut it?
That hose is a commercial type, hard to find. You have to replace that hose, it does not screw off from the shut off valve. There is a video explaining this. Good day.
Good job.can I ask how much you charge for the job?
Good job
With removing lines in tight spaces like that it is better to use a small crescent than a basin
If that new GLUED valve fails, the next person is gonna have a harder job. They are going to have to cut that pipe coming out of the wall, and left with a small piece of pipe stub sticking out of the wall 😳
Thank you.
Thank you, that was very helpful.
How bad was the water loss?
aren't you suppose to use pipe tape or rector sealant on the threads?
No,he did it correctly
I asked a plumber that. He said the o-ring thingy inside does the job with compression upon tightening.
How's it holding up? Any leaks?
Thanks for watching! Holding up great, no leaks =)
Thank you sir
Thanks
What is the name given to the Glue/Weld type replacement shutoff valve.
Those are brasscraft brand valves.
“I don’t know what this wrench is called, but will get up in behind the basin”....🤣🤦🏻♂️please ppl be careful who you let in your home.
Failed to show how to shut the water off with that type of round valve.
I came to this vid looking for the answer to that, he didn't mentioned it but, the vid shows the valve itself and it reads on its top side (or front) clearly "pull to shut off" or something like that
To turn off water on the plastic pop valve, think of it like trying to gently pop the cap straight off of a mushroom. Don’t twist. The cap will only move a few millimeters. Push it back towards the stem to turn the water back on.