Check Out the ULTIMATE CARPENTRY CHECKLIST!! *Get your free interactive ebook here* : www.thehonestcarpenter.com/the-ultimate-carpentry-checklist This *150-item Visual Glossary* covers every important topic in carpentry. Check off the tools you have, the concepts you understand. And if you don't know a topic, just click on it for an explanation. Every carpenter and DIYer needs this free guide!
All these tips about blade wander apply equally to hand saws. When I was an apprentice joiner one of the first things I learned was to let the saw do the work, don't force it. Sometimes with a deep cut we rubbed some candle wax onto the blade to ease it from binding especially with a fine cut panel saw.
I have a different blade wandering issue…I buy a new pack, and they seem to wander off where I can’t locate them. Then, I buy another pack, thinking I must just be getting old and forgetful…😬 Seriously though, great tips as always. 🙂
My wife got me a jigsaw for my birthday, because she said it's the only woodworking tool I don't have. (I don't have a jointer, either, honey.) I never thought I needed a jigsaw, but now that I have one, it's my go-to tool for all kinds of utilitarian tasks. And now one of my favorite channels has a video about it. Awesome!
A skewed cut can be cleaned up with a router and flush trim bit. Make sure you have the bearing running along the shorter edge. That will take off the protruding edge and return the cut to square.
None of this is common sense. It’s specialized experience you gain from working with wood and power tools. Hilarious how some people like to brag how everything is common sense to prove how smart they are in comparison. By your logic, surgeons say surgery scenarios are common sense too if you just use your intuition. Everything is common sense to a “smart” person.
I recommend Ethan's course. Take this video and supersize it across multiple tools. Ethan don't shy away from mentioning the price of your course. Some may never click the link assuming it's too expensive. I found sufficient value in just one tool and the related videos - angle grinder!
Thank so much, Anne!! I greatly appreciate that! I’m really glad the course was helpful. That angle grinder lesson is a very important one-such a strong handheld tool. Thank you for supporting us, and just reach out directly if you have any tool questions!😄❤️
I see this happen with new blades. I have they higher end Dewalt and think it is part of function of the quick release locking mechanism. In the old days when you screw tightened the blade, this happened much less.
When I started using my jigsaw seriously, I did two things: 1. I read up on whose blades are the best, and I bought a large selection. I keep them organized with a convenient sheet that tells me which blade is best for which application. As far as I can tell from youtube videos, I am the only person in the world who does not just use the same blade for everything. 2. After screwing up a few cuts due to incompetence, I made a zero-clearance sole plate out of wood, and I figured out how to run it against a fence so that I can make straight cuts exactly on a pencil line.
You wouldn't be the only one, but maybe the only one to a high level. I know I keep multiple blades, but I jump a lot between metal, wood, rough and fine cuts, you can't have just one blade for this combination.
I don't like being one of those "back in my day" people, but back in the 70's when I started out i never had this problem. I used to use a jigsaw for everything because its all i had and it always went straight and true. I blame all this on the quality of the blades dropping with the saws getting weaker. Back then there were no foreign made blades and I swear they were stronger and much harder to bend. If you have this problem I suggest buying a very good blade and see if that helps with using these great tips.
That’s interesting, 9ball. I never thought about it…but when I think back to my early learning years (the 90s), you’re right, I don’t recall it happening as often 🤔
@@TheHonestCarpenter I remember in high school I was cutting 3/4" plywood with a very dull blade and I was pushing like heck to get it cut and it still stayed true. You can't do that today.
I've noticed that the pros like Diablo brand. They are better than the store brands but I agree with you - they just don't make anything like they used to!
I agree. When I was about 12, I cut a seahorse out of 3/4 inch plywood using my dad's all metal Black & Decker two speed handheld jigsaw that required an hex key to change the blade. I'm sure that I used whatever old blade happened to be in the saw and that I pushed the cut because I was an impatient 12 year old. The cut came out perfectly, and I still have the seahorse hanging on the wall. Nowadays, I use a high end DeWalt jigsaw and Bosch blades, and always have a problem with out of square cuts despite going slow. I think you're onto something about the crappy quality of today's jigsaw blades, or maybe iot's the way today's keyless chucks hold the blades.
@@andrewj5998 you might be onto something. Every jigsaw that I've had and would cut square had the old style of blades. Maybe it has something to do with the T slot blades?
Great tips! I've been guilty of pushing too hard, and sideways skew, both of which I corrected, and the cuts are better but still not where I'd like them to be. The relief cuts and the periodic pulling back to reset are both excellent, and I'll definitely try those on my next cut.
I just bought my own personal jigsaw for the first time and this is by far the most helpful video I’ve come across. This even helped me remember what I was doing while using past ones. Now owning my own I’m very glad to come across this video to know the do’s and don’ts 💯
Good video. I'll share something I discovered that really helps with this problem, use a thicker blade. For example Bosch makes a line of blades that are .07" thick which is a bit thicker than typical. They call this their "Precision" blades and have a "P" suffix.
Great tips. I got so tired of fighting this that I went to other methods when possible - especially router for longer cuts - in production. Sabre/Jig saw is still great for prototyping, though.. but it seldom gets used any more - especially on radial and circular cuts. Thanks for the video.
Good stuff, I would add that many saws have adjustments ,not just for speed, but the type of reciprocating motion, with a setting for aggressive cuts vs. for brittle material, and some have an angle adjustment to lean forward or back, for harder and softer material. Using some sort of guide (scrapwood, metal bar, whatever) greatly increases chances of accuracy.
I would also talk about the types of wood that jigsaws work best on. I never use my jigsaw on anything over 3/8" thick plywood unless, as you said, you're cutting a curve. And if it's less than that, especially 1/8" masonite, you have to hold or clamp it to the table, keeping the blade close to your underneath support or it will vibrate so bad you'll not get anywhere, lol.
I use mine on 3/4 hardwood plywood, as well as on 1" hardwood stair treads mostly in birch and oak frequently. That being said the cuts are never seen 😂
It's so simple yet I made almost all of these mistakes on my first try today. Thank you for saving me time and valuable material on my second try tomorrow. Practice makes perfect after all.
These are all good tips for sure. I'd like to hear more about using a guide -- either running a jig saw along side a straight piece of wood or aluminum extrusion, or using the type of guide that attached to the saw's footplate. Also, it has to be said that there's quite a difference between jigsaw models regarding the path of the reciprocating blade, whether it goes straight up and down, or at a slight angle with the bottom of the blade slightly forward, and other saws where they have an additional mechanism that cyclically pushes the blade forward on the upstroke. And its so much more satisfying to use a jigsaw that has a smooth speed control rather than lurching to life as soon as you advance the speed roller just a bit!
Good points, Graham! I actually covered all of this in the course. My best tip for using a guide is to CLAMP IT DOWN FIRMLY, otherwise it can wander from the vibrations. And, I like to keep orbital motion turned down low, so the cut is more controlled 🙂
@@TheHonestCarpenter "Orbital motion" -- that's the term I was missing. Yeah, turning it up chews faster, but baby nibbles are easier to manage. Thanks for the comment.
@@TheHonestCarpenter Regarding the guide, I wonder whether there are situations where running the saw alongside a guide can get the blade wedged up if it starts to "steer toward the guide".
When I saw the title of the video, I would like disagree with this. But after watching I totally agree with four described reasons. And I would say another advice: when you are preparing for cut, just check the straightness of blade and sole plate by square. It requires several seconds but save you much more time and material for following repairing job if something will go wrong.
Very helpful topic. I literally avoided using my jigsaw a couple days ago for this reason. I regret my decision, the hole I have is probably not any better than the one I avoided. I have a high quality jigsaw now, but my first one almost put me off DeWalt entirely. I wasn’t very familiar with the power tool realm, not realizing how much a higher end tool can really be worth the cost. My first DeWalt jigsaw was something I bought at a garage sale probably, I just assumed the name meant something. Not considering that this tool might’ve been a low end tool in their arsenal of options. But after repeatedly getting very inaccurate cuts, I came to the conclusion (partially correct) that the foot was not as flat as it should be. After disassembling and cleaning years of crud away and reassembled it still wasn’t any better. It ultimately turned out that the hinging mechanism was very poorly constructed and the loose tolerances had no chance of ever working properly. It cut off the material. But if quality was wanted, it was not the option for this. I still struggle with the fact that 90deg cuts are not going to be fully attained, but your info is very useful. Thx. I still don’t have too many DeWalt tools. Just their jobsite table saw and planer. Both are excellent. The rest of my tools are essentially makita.
You can also use a thin piece of plywood to make a zero-clearance add-on sole plate below your sole plate that acts as a guide to reduce blade bending. However, all of the tips in your video should be done in addition even if you create an additional zero clearance blade guide under the sole plate.
Ive been using jigsaws for 40 years. Seems like i never had problems years ago but in the last 10-15 years it seems like I cannot get good cuts. I don’t buy high end tools. I have decent tools for my needs. I think they just have started making jigsaws more and more flimsy and this reflects my problems. I have tried to adjust plates, returned a few I thought were not correct when i unboxed them and understand all the points you mentioned here. I have just about given up on using jet saws for anything that matters.
I, too, have a cheap B&D. Its soleplate mechanism was so sloppy and the method of securing its angle so inadequate, that I permanently epoxied it in place. I also bought some shorter blades, and sometimes I'd screw an MDF shoe on the soleplate with zero blade clearance. If I continued to think of a jigsaw as an important woodworking tool, I'd toss the B&D in the junk and buy something intended for serious work. As it is, it's an if-all-else-fails tool that I hardly use anymore.
I have the same cordless Black and Decker model as you and I jump out of the roller to the right all the time. Which causes angled cuts. This jumping happens if I pull back to re-align the cut.
And your informative video just confirmed what I have always suspected... I'm a hack woodworker... but I just may get a bit less of a hack if I follow your advise, thank you.
I'm pretty comfortable with power tools but this has been one area I struggle with. In the past, I just use the band saw if possible. For my next project, I'll try and implement these techniques. Thank you.
My issue has been cutting curves and staying on the line. My cure was to over the thrnsaw cutting into the curve. When the blade is parallel to the mencil mark look straight ahead of the blade, it is aimed off the cure. So you want to saw into the curve to where the saw needs to go, not just the pencil line you are on.
Good advice. I've been frustrated at times with the jigsaw. I've probably committed a few of these but I'm betting also on it also being caused more by the cheap HF blades I've used.
Thank you for your great video and channel! I read in a few of the comments below, and elsewhere, that a thicker blade, such as was more common decades ago, is less prone to bending and wandering. I assume that means that a blade that produces a wider kerf will tend to make a truer cut. If that is the case, would inserting two identical extra thin blades, perhaps strongly glued together with a glue that can hold in high heat, be better for making true vertical cuts than to use a common thin blade? Sorry of this is a silly question. Have a great day.
I held off a long time getting a table saw (20+ years), mainly because of the space. But I had to replace all the wood on the garage roof and bought one of the foldable ones. It has really been a game changer. I now wish I had purchased one a lot sooner.
5. When someone new to the jigsaw is cutting along an edge with half of the base plate off the work piece however they don't make sure the half of the base plate THAT IS resting on work piece is flat and not leaning off the side which leads to beveled or curved edge cut.
Thanks David! I’m actually going to add this video down in the Additional Viewing section for the jigsaw lesson. Just so it’s there for a little extra help. 🙂
There are other issues here too. The blade clamp of all the 'toolless' blade replacement types never position the blade exactly parallel to the saw with precision. Even a degree out will result in the saw wandering away from any temporary fence and it is very difficult or impossible to get it back on course. Also many jigsaws have a feature whereby the blade can be angled in relation to the soleplate so bevel cuts can be made. The problem is that the adjustment is very crude - just a rough scale if you're lucky and a single large bolt to lock the position of the soleplate. There is never a 90 degree locating click. Ah well you say, just use a set square! But the locking mechanism is so crude that the angle changes as you tighten up. After several attempts you may be able to get the blade to within a couple of degrees of 90 but it is harder than you think. The message from me is never to use a jigsaw for precise work, they are not built for it.
Thank you, Tom! I always stress to folks that jigsaws just aren’t as clean as circular saws for straight cuts-but for shape cutting, they’re the best 🙂
I have been getting a lot of bounce and vibration from my jig saw. It must be a combination of the factors you mentioned, mainly a dull blade and a speed of the cut because mine will jump out the cut path at times. I think it is time for me to get a new saw also, hard to find U shank blades anywhere. Thanks for this informing video
I have an old jigsaw too, and was having the same issue. The solution that worked for me was investing in better quality blades, as well as being sure I was using the correct blade for the job. My father-in-law has given me the saw, and he was of the opinion that you really only needed one blade to do any and all materials. I know there are multi-use blades available, but that wasn’t what he had. Thankfully, I did a bit of UA-cam “research” and learned lots of great tips and haven’t had the jumping issue since. 🙂
Many high end jigsaws also have one or more knobs to adjust the exact way the blade is moving. In many cases it's marked by materials/application. Selecting correct setting can change DRASTICALLY how the saw performs in both speed and accuracy. Always remember to READ THE MANUAL.
I made a rotating jig to make a perfectly circular cut with my jig saw on a really large piece of wood one time, but I would get serious blade bending no matter what I was doing. I was only gently pushing the saw, the curve wasn't small, and I made sure the blade was rated for the thickness of the wood I was cutting. I bought much longer blades and my problem went away. I still can't figure out why I had the problem.
I wish I'd watched this video before my current project! I think I made just about every mistake mentioned. Still, it's all a learning curve, so I'm not beating myself up over it.
My father always said "If you're doing it right, the tool does the work." If you're pushing the tool, swinging the hammer real hard, shoving at the knife, you're doing it wrong -- and you're making it harder.
The roller guide on my Bosch 1581VS can slide back and forth a bit. Is that normal or do I need to replace it? We had the problem of a cut that wasn't square today and I thought maybe I need a new roller guide.
Tried to cut some laminate flooring planks (12mm) with my jigsaw today and despite inserting a blade especially for laminate cutting the jigsaw kept kicking back. I tried adjusting angle but nothing worked. What am I doing wrong?
11 місяців тому
No mention about the blade settings? Most if not all have 3 setting for the blade foward angle. We all know about cutting speed setting but the angle is les known.
Great tips, but I've tried them and I still frequently have problems with out of square cuts. I hate using my handheld DeWalt jigsaw unless I absolutely have to. I've tried high end blades made by different manufacturers. I don't think that the keyless chucks found on today's jigsaws hold the blades as well as the vintage models that required tightening two hex nuts.
Use a large magnifying glass 4 inches diameter or larger and focus on blade while cutting. Using a guide may ruin the cut if the blade is not perfectly aligned to the jigsaw body.
cutting 5mm perspex with jigsaw is a nightmare, even with a fence, blade wanders off. i wont bother with jigsaw in perspex again, unless i need some fancy shape. easier to score and break or just use a hand saw. always needs sanding anyway.
Check Out the ULTIMATE CARPENTRY CHECKLIST!! *Get your free interactive ebook here* :
www.thehonestcarpenter.com/the-ultimate-carpentry-checklist
This *150-item Visual Glossary* covers every important topic in carpentry. Check off the tools you have, the concepts you understand. And if you don't know a topic, just click on it for an explanation. Every carpenter and DIYer needs this free guide!
All these tips about blade wander apply equally to hand saws. When I was an apprentice joiner one of the first things I learned was to let the saw do the work, don't force it. Sometimes with a deep cut we rubbed some candle wax onto the blade to ease it from binding especially with a fine cut panel saw.
I have a different blade wandering issue…I buy a new pack, and they seem to wander off where I can’t locate them. Then, I buy another pack, thinking I must just be getting old and forgetful…😬
Seriously though, great tips as always. 🙂
Yep, a major issue here too.
No wonder I have 5 of everything. I have the same problem.
Same here. I can never find the right size screws though I am always buying them.
🤣🤣🤣
Go to the hardware store for every job. Then you have heaps of gear.
My wife got me a jigsaw for my birthday, because she said it's the only woodworking tool I don't have. (I don't have a jointer, either, honey.) I never thought I needed a jigsaw, but now that I have one, it's my go-to tool for all kinds of utilitarian tasks. And now one of my favorite channels has a video about it. Awesome!
That’s awesome, WanJae!! We’ll get you the jointer next 😆 Work safe!
😂😂😂
Get your good wife to buy a bottle of Jonnie Walker, black label. You'll need no second rate adviceon what to do.
You sound like the gay guy who just discovered girls.
A skewed cut can be cleaned up with a router and flush trim bit. Make sure you have the bearing running along the shorter edge. That will take off the protruding edge and return the cut to square.
Took wood shop in 8th grade. Saw your title and I thought maybe I’ll learn something new. Nope, common sense and Mr Hoosiers advice still holds true.
None of this is common sense. It’s specialized experience you gain from working with wood and power tools.
Hilarious how some people like to brag how everything is common sense to prove how smart they are in comparison. By your logic, surgeons say surgery scenarios are common sense too if you just use your intuition. Everything is common sense to a “smart” person.
Great list of things not to do with a jig saw. Keep the fundamentals coming!
Thanks John, Will do! 👍🙂
Outstanding delivery, easy to understand! You have a special talent to not talk over peoples’ heads! Thank you!!!
I recommend Ethan's course. Take this video and supersize it across multiple tools.
Ethan don't shy away from mentioning the price of your course. Some may never click the link assuming it's too expensive. I found sufficient value in just one tool and the related videos - angle grinder!
Thank so much, Anne!! I greatly appreciate that! I’m really glad the course was helpful. That angle grinder lesson is a very important one-such a strong handheld tool. Thank you for supporting us, and just reach out directly if you have any tool questions!😄❤️
I was thinking about finding it last week and joining. Glad this video came out. 👍
Thank you for the tip on relief cuts. It seems like they are inevitable with any shape that is more advanced than an arc of a circle.
Sure thing! I’ve really come to rely on them. You can make them quickly, and they just make such a difference. 👍
I see this happen with new blades. I have they higher end Dewalt and think it is part of function of the quick release locking mechanism. In the old days when you screw tightened the blade, this happened much less.
I could see that being the case, Kevin. Might just not get clamped as firmly 😬
When I started using my jigsaw seriously, I did two things:
1. I read up on whose blades are the best, and I bought a large selection. I keep them organized with a convenient sheet that tells me which blade is best for which application. As far as I can tell from youtube videos, I am the only person in the world who does not just use the same blade for everything.
2. After screwing up a few cuts due to incompetence, I made a zero-clearance sole plate out of wood, and I figured out how to run it against a fence so that I can make straight cuts exactly on a pencil line.
You wouldn't be the only one, but maybe the only one to a high level. I know I keep multiple blades, but I jump a lot between metal, wood, rough and fine cuts, you can't have just one blade for this combination.
I don't like being one of those "back in my day" people, but back in the 70's when I started out i never had this problem. I used to use a jigsaw for everything because its all i had and it always went straight and true. I blame all this on the quality of the blades dropping with the saws getting weaker. Back then there were no foreign made blades and I swear they were stronger and much harder to bend.
If you have this problem I suggest buying a very good blade and see if that helps with using these great tips.
That’s interesting, 9ball. I never thought about it…but when I think back to my early learning years (the 90s), you’re right, I don’t recall it happening as often 🤔
@@TheHonestCarpenter I remember in high school I was cutting 3/4" plywood with a very dull blade and I was pushing like heck to get it cut and it still stayed true. You can't do that today.
I've noticed that the pros like Diablo brand. They are better than the store brands but I agree with you - they just don't make anything like they used to!
I agree. When I was about 12, I cut a seahorse out of 3/4 inch plywood using my dad's all metal Black & Decker two speed handheld jigsaw that required an hex key to change the blade. I'm sure that I used whatever old blade happened to be in the saw and that I pushed the cut because I was an impatient 12 year old. The cut came out perfectly, and I still have the seahorse hanging on the wall. Nowadays, I use a high end DeWalt jigsaw and Bosch blades, and always have a problem with out of square cuts despite going slow. I think you're onto something about the crappy quality of today's jigsaw blades, or maybe iot's the way today's keyless chucks hold the blades.
@@andrewj5998 you might be onto something. Every jigsaw that I've had and would cut square had the old style of blades. Maybe it has something to do with the T slot blades?
Great tips! I've been guilty of pushing too hard, and sideways skew, both of which I corrected, and the cuts are better but still not where I'd like them to be. The relief cuts and the periodic pulling back to reset are both excellent, and I'll definitely try those on my next cut.
I just bought my own personal jigsaw for the first time and this is by far the most helpful video I’ve come across. This even helped me remember what I was doing while using past ones. Now owning my own I’m very glad to come across this video to know the do’s and don’ts 💯
Good video. I'll share something I discovered that really helps with this problem, use a thicker blade. For example Bosch makes a line of blades that are .07" thick which is a bit thicker than typical. They call this their "Precision" blades and have a "P" suffix.
Good call, Tony! Somebody else mentioned this too. I wasn’t even aware that they existed 🙂
I haven't used a jigsaw for a long time. This video was a great refresher. I had forgotten about relief cuts.
1:45 the amount of anxiety this gave so many of us haha well displayed!
Great tips. I got so tired of fighting this that I went to other methods when possible - especially router for longer cuts - in production. Sabre/Jig saw is still great for prototyping, though.. but it seldom gets used any more - especially on radial and circular cuts. Thanks for the video.
Good stuff, I would add that many saws have adjustments ,not just for speed, but the type of reciprocating motion, with a setting for aggressive cuts vs. for brittle material, and some have an angle adjustment to lean forward or back, for harder and softer material. Using some sort of guide (scrapwood, metal bar, whatever) greatly increases chances of accuracy.
Very useful tips.
I knew I was doing something wrong.
Now I know how to fix the problem.
Thanks!
👍😄
I would also talk about the types of wood that jigsaws work best on. I never use my jigsaw on anything over 3/8" thick plywood unless, as you said, you're cutting a curve. And if it's less than that, especially 1/8" masonite, you have to hold or clamp it to the table, keeping the blade close to your underneath support or it will vibrate so bad you'll not get anywhere, lol.
I use mine on 3/4 hardwood plywood, as well as on 1" hardwood stair treads mostly in birch and oak frequently. That being said the cuts are never seen 😂
Simply and nicely explained.
Regarding sharpness; if any saw blade edge doesn't hurt my fingers when I touch it - it's dull.
I change it.
How many whole fingers do you still have?
@@tonylawrence9157 10. How about you?
I really missed these videos! Great to have you back! I think I'm no longer an amateur but I still learned a lot with this video. Thanks
Welcome ❤
It's so simple yet I made almost all of these mistakes on my first try today. Thank you for saving me time and valuable material on my second try tomorrow. Practice makes perfect after all.
I’m glad it’s helpful, gin! 🙂
These are all good tips for sure. I'd like to hear more about using a guide -- either running a jig saw along side a straight piece of wood or aluminum extrusion, or using the type of guide that attached to the saw's footplate. Also, it has to be said that there's quite a difference between jigsaw models regarding the path of the reciprocating blade, whether it goes straight up and down, or at a slight angle with the bottom of the blade slightly forward, and other saws where they have an additional mechanism that cyclically pushes the blade forward on the upstroke. And its so much more satisfying to use a jigsaw that has a smooth speed control rather than lurching to life as soon as you advance the speed roller just a bit!
Good points, Graham! I actually covered all of this in the course. My best tip for using a guide is to CLAMP IT DOWN FIRMLY, otherwise it can wander from the vibrations. And, I like to keep orbital motion turned down low, so the cut is more controlled 🙂
@@TheHonestCarpenter "Orbital motion" -- that's the term I was missing. Yeah, turning it up chews faster, but baby nibbles are easier to manage. Thanks for the comment.
@@TheHonestCarpenter Regarding the guide, I wonder whether there are situations where running the saw alongside a guide can get the blade wedged up if it starts to "steer toward the guide".
When I saw the title of the video, I would like disagree with this. But after watching I totally agree with four described reasons. And I would say another advice: when you are preparing for cut, just check the straightness of blade and sole plate by square. It requires several seconds but save you much more time and material for following repairing job if something will go wrong.
Very helpful topic. I literally avoided using my jigsaw a couple days ago for this reason. I regret my decision, the hole I have is probably not any better than the one I avoided.
I have a high quality jigsaw now, but my first one almost put me off DeWalt entirely.
I wasn’t very familiar with the power tool realm, not realizing how much a higher end tool can really be worth the cost.
My first DeWalt jigsaw was something I bought at a garage sale probably, I just assumed the name meant something. Not considering that this tool might’ve been a low end tool in their arsenal of options.
But after repeatedly getting very inaccurate cuts, I came to the conclusion (partially correct) that the foot was not as flat as it should be. After disassembling and cleaning years of crud away and reassembled it still wasn’t any better.
It ultimately turned out that the hinging mechanism was very poorly constructed and the loose tolerances had no chance of ever working properly.
It cut off the material. But if quality was wanted, it was not the option for this.
I still struggle with the fact that 90deg cuts are not going to be fully attained, but your info is very useful. Thx.
I still don’t have too many DeWalt tools. Just their jobsite table saw and planer. Both are excellent. The rest of my tools are essentially makita.
Thanks for the tips! I was planning to buy a jigsaw but wasn’t sure what to expect 😀
You can also use a thin piece of plywood to make a zero-clearance add-on sole plate below your sole plate that acts as a guide to reduce blade bending. However, all of the tips in your video should be done in addition even if you create an additional zero clearance blade guide under the sole plate.
Good idea!
Great tips - I've been guilty of #1 and #3.
Thanks Erik! I’ve been guilty of all of them 😅
Lots of practical info for a 5-min video (for newbies **and** experienced alike). Thanks Ethan! ...and best wishes to you.
Thank you, Jeff! 😄🙏
Good tips and advice for preventing jigsaw wonke blade cuts and why they happen,. even seasoned woodworkers get impatient... thx
Ive been using jigsaws for 40 years. Seems like i never had problems years ago but in the last 10-15 years it seems like I cannot get good cuts. I don’t buy high end tools. I have decent tools for my needs. I think they just have started making jigsaws more and more flimsy and this reflects my problems. I have tried to adjust plates, returned a few I thought were not correct when i unboxed them and understand all the points you mentioned here. I have just about given up on using jet saws for anything that matters.
I, too, have a cheap B&D. Its soleplate mechanism was so sloppy and the method of securing its angle so inadequate, that I permanently epoxied it in place. I also bought some shorter blades, and sometimes I'd screw an MDF shoe on the soleplate with zero blade clearance. If I continued to think of a jigsaw as an important woodworking tool, I'd toss the B&D in the junk and buy something intended for serious work. As it is, it's an if-all-else-fails tool that I hardly use anymore.
Thank you I’ll make sure to keep this in mind. Didn’t know why my blade would bend. I’ll pay attention to all you mentioned. Thanks.
Thanks for watching, Sandra! 😄
I have the same cordless Black and Decker model as you and I jump out of the roller to the right all the time. Which causes angled cuts. This jumping happens if I pull back to re-align the cut.
And your informative video just confirmed what I have always suspected... I'm a hack woodworker... but I just may get a bit less of a hack if I follow your advise, thank you.
Thanks for the good tips! Why does my blade smoke sometimes? And what should I do to prevent it
Great tips! A jigsaw is probably one of the most difficult saws to use properly and get consistently good cuts.
Great tips, you must be kidding. Try anchoring the saw upside down.
I'm pretty comfortable with power tools but this has been one area I struggle with. In the past, I just use the band saw if possible. For my next project, I'll try and implement these techniques. Thank you.
Band saw is really the best option if you have one, Sierra! Solves the alignment issue automatically 🙂
I bought two Bosch easycut50 from a bargain bin for 70€, they have a nano blade so no bending, one i'm installing in my multitool workbench.
My issue has been cutting curves and staying on the line. My cure was to over the thrnsaw cutting into the curve. When the blade is parallel to the mencil mark look straight ahead of the blade, it is aimed off the cure. So you want to saw into the curve to where the saw needs to go, not just the pencil line you are on.
Good advice. I've been frustrated at times with the jigsaw. I've probably committed a few of these but I'm betting also on it also being caused more by the cheap HF blades I've used.
Thank you for these important quality and safety points... good for all power tools.
Thank you for your great video and channel! I read in a few of the comments below, and elsewhere, that a thicker blade, such as was more common decades ago, is less prone to bending and wandering. I assume that means that a blade that produces a wider kerf will tend to make a truer cut. If that is the case, would inserting two identical extra thin blades, perhaps strongly glued together with a glue that can hold in high heat, be better for making true vertical cuts than to use a common thin blade? Sorry of this is a silly question. Have a great day.
Thank you so much for your helpful video. I've wondered why this happens and now I know!
My favorite tool is the portable table saw! I wish I still had one but sold it when I moved 🤦♂️
That’s what next weeks video is about, JC! I got a new one this summer, and it has a couple great features.
I held off a long time getting a table saw (20+ years), mainly because of the space. But I had to replace all the wood on the garage roof and bought one of the foldable ones. It has really been a game changer. I now wish I had purchased one a lot sooner.
Thank you! Very informative even for an experienced user.
Thanks for such a clear explanation. Great video!
EXCELLENT descriptions and specifics as usual!
Thank you, Cat! 😄
Great video. Helped me identify one of the problems I was having.
5. When someone new to the jigsaw is cutting along an edge with half of the base plate off the work piece however they don't make sure the half of the base plate THAT IS resting on work piece is flat and not leaning off the side which leads to beveled or curved edge cut.
True, Ray!
You should start uploading in 60fps man! I think you have such an established enough channel/brand that it would look/feel really good.
Thanks so much! I’m trying to upgrade tech and everything these days-I’ll see what I can do 😄
Good advice Ethan. I always wondered why it happened. I need to watch that video in your course. I skipped around a bit.
Thanks David! I’m actually going to add this video down in the Additional Viewing section for the jigsaw lesson. Just so it’s there for a little extra help. 🙂
Glad you're linking this one, Ethan, having videos all in one place is a huge advantage with your course. Thanks.
There are other issues here too. The blade clamp of all the 'toolless' blade replacement types never position the blade exactly parallel to the saw with precision. Even a degree out will result in the saw wandering away from any temporary fence and it is very difficult or impossible to get it back on course. Also many jigsaws have a feature whereby the blade can be angled in relation to the soleplate so bevel cuts can be made. The problem is that the adjustment is very crude - just a rough scale if you're lucky and a single large bolt to lock the position of the soleplate. There is never a 90 degree locating click. Ah well you say, just use a set square! But the locking mechanism is so crude that the angle changes as you tighten up. After several attempts you may be able to get the blade to within a couple of degrees of 90 but it is harder than you think. The message from me is never to use a jigsaw for precise work, they are not built for it.
Great video. I hate reciprocating saws. I have never made a decent cut with one. Will try again using yr tips.
Thank you, Tom! I always stress to folks that jigsaws just aren’t as clean as circular saws for straight cuts-but for shape cutting, they’re the best 🙂
Isn’t the video about jigsaws, not reciprocating saws?
Thanks bro!! I thought that i bought a broken jig saw but now I know it bend while cutting, nc day bro.👍
You’re welcome, Daniel! Don’t throw it out just yet 😁👍
I almost did 🤣 coz, I'm just a begginer 1ce agn thanks bro..
Thanks for the refresher...I use my Jigsaw a lot. 👷🏿
Thanks W! I’m using mine more these days too 😄
Great tutorial--succinct yet extremely detailed instruction. Perfect!
Excellent Lesson. I am guilty off all the mistakes.
I think I had “sideways pressure” trouble because I was trying to force my saw against the cutting guide I’d clamped to the wood.
I’ve had that happen before Talley. Following a guide with a jigsaw can be tricky because the vibrations can make the guide wander a tiny amount!
I have been getting a lot of bounce and vibration from my jig saw. It must be a combination of the factors you mentioned, mainly a dull blade and a speed of the cut because mine will jump out the cut path at times.
I think it is time for me to get a new saw also, hard to find U shank blades anywhere. Thanks for this informing video
I have an old jigsaw too, and was having the same issue. The solution that worked for me was investing in better quality blades, as well as being sure I was using the correct blade for the job. My father-in-law has given me the saw, and he was of the opinion that you really only needed one blade to do any and all materials. I know there are multi-use blades available, but that wasn’t what he had. Thankfully, I did a bit of UA-cam “research” and learned lots of great tips and haven’t had the jumping issue since. 🙂
After years of wondering why my jigsaw cuts wander, I now know! Thank you.
Best way to get your jigsaw cuts straight is to use a circular saw instead.
This is true 🤔
Exactly. Not a fan of jigsaws. Hence why I'm looking at this video
This was such a helpful video, thanks for making it so easy to understand. :)
Many high end jigsaws also have one or more knobs to adjust the exact way the blade is moving. In many cases it's marked by materials/application. Selecting correct setting can change DRASTICALLY how the saw performs in both speed and accuracy.
Always remember to READ THE MANUAL.
I made a rotating jig to make a perfectly circular cut with my jig saw on a really large piece of wood one time, but I would get serious blade bending no matter what I was doing. I was only gently pushing the saw, the curve wasn't small, and I made sure the blade was rated for the thickness of the wood I was cutting.
I bought much longer blades and my problem went away. I still can't figure out why I had the problem.
Glad you see your back from filming the final season of Cobra Kai 🥋🐍
Until my contract renews 😏🥋
This was very helpful! I always learn from your channel. Thanks for sharing this.
Video turned up randomly in my feed, but I do have a jigsaw and enjoyed your tips. Nice job!
Thanks for watching, Brian!
ThT black and Decker is a great, inexpensive saw btw.
I did not know these-thanks Ethan! "Let the Tool Do the Work! Cheers!
I wish I'd watched this video before my current project! I think I made just about every mistake mentioned. Still, it's all a learning curve, so I'm not beating myself up over it.
It happens Harvey! It’ll go smoother next time 🙂
Fantastic information and advice. Thank you as always!😊
Thanks, Shangrila!! 😄
Thanks for the insight and the tips to cut straight and square. 😊😊
You’re welcome, Gary!
🤗GREAT ADVICE ETHAN … I hope many take advantage of your course 👍💚💚💚
Just a question as my grizzly I have has had it. Is the black and decker an ok jigsaw?
Thanks for the information. I'm going to try to remember these and take them to heart.
I find that clamping a straight piece of wood to use as a guide helps a lot.
Yep, as long as it is clamped down tight and can’t move from the vibration!
Info start at 2:00
My father always said "If you're doing it right, the tool does the work." If you're pushing the tool, swinging the hammer real hard, shoving at the knife, you're doing it wrong -- and you're making it harder.
The roller guide on my Bosch 1581VS can slide back and forth a bit. Is that normal or do I need to replace it? We had the problem of a cut that wasn't square today and I thought maybe I need a new roller guide.
Great tips. I need to invest in in one, so as a semi novice, what is the best brand to buy that has an easy to change blade feature?
How do I hire you to make my own workshop/shed look that incredibly neat, clean, and organized? LOL! Another great video, thanks!
Tried to cut some laminate flooring planks (12mm) with my jigsaw today and despite inserting a blade especially for laminate cutting the jigsaw kept kicking back. I tried adjusting angle but nothing worked. What am I doing wrong?
No mention about the blade settings?
Most if not all have 3 setting for the blade foward angle.
We all know about cutting speed setting but the angle is les known.
Awesome video, your suggestions were spot on!👍🏼
Great tips, but I've tried them and I still frequently have problems with out of square cuts. I hate using my handheld DeWalt jigsaw unless I absolutely have to. I've tried high end blades made by different manufacturers.
I don't think that the keyless chucks found on today's jigsaws hold the blades as well as the vintage models that required tightening two hex nuts.
That’s a good point, Andrew! I bet those old screw clamps were more secure…
Thank you so much, I learned something new today because you.
Relief cut is a great suggestion
Good stuff…glad you’re back
Thanks you, Rick! 🙂
Is that saw worth buying? I don’t do wood work often, and only small projects when I do. Anyone? Or which other one is ok.
Finally an answer to a question that probably bugged me for eternity.. thanks .
👍😁
Use a large magnifying glass 4 inches diameter or larger and focus on blade while cutting. Using a guide may ruin the cut if the blade is not perfectly aligned to the jigsaw body.
Going out to the garage to cut some wood with my jigsaw, now that I know how to do it correctly.
Did you ever replace your Dewalt table Saw? If so, please me know the brand and model of your replacement. Thanks !
Coming up next week, Steve. 😁
Does the jigsaw rpm matter? They have variable speed..
“Let the tool do the work” are words to live by lol
cutting 5mm perspex with jigsaw is a nightmare, even with a fence, blade wanders off. i wont bother with jigsaw in perspex again, unless i need some fancy shape. easier to score and break or just use a hand saw. always needs sanding anyway.