Great video with very useful information. If you're using stainless for the metal, it's for a reason, so you should weld with it too. Glad you got a chance to put this together.
I'm not fabricator thereby not a welder as well but I'm learning. I can truly understand how it's important to have a clean material surface no matter what. Thanks for the video I've got another piece of the puzzle figured out.
My own experience with contaminating stainless steel with a normal wire brush, is that it isn't the stainless steel that rust, it's the contamination itself, but if left on the steel it will make craters in it over time, so wipe it off with oil (WD-40 or similar) and a stainless scotch pad, and problem (in most cases) solved. :)
So yes, you can weld stainless with regular filler wire but it will rust if left unprotected. This is useful information for guys like me who just do repairs on their own equipment. I've got a few wheelbarrows that have stainless frames that occasionally break and crack and unfortunately, I can't weld stainless right now as I have no access to shielding gas.
In the early 90's I had a welding job that required over 3000 meters of tig weld on stainless steel moulds for making chicken nuggets for an international company whose logo was an arch motif. These got stacked outside after welding and a large number of them developed lines of rust along fold lines. The contractor that had done the press brake work had used a press brake that had previously been used on mil;d steel, as you can imagine there was a big kerfuffle over the whole thing. It ended up that the whole lot had to be sent for acid etching and bead blasting as there was far to much work and material involved to redo the batch. The problem is caused by the dilution of chromium oxide on the surface and once corrosion starts it will go all the way through.
other metals can have weird reactions with steel as well.. large steel ocean ships use large blocks of magnesium called sacrificial annodes attached to the hull to prevent rusting and the blocks need to be replaced from time to time as they corrode away instead of the ships. another fun one is titanium, if you use a titanium bolt in a steel hole the titanium will have a reaction and weld itself to the steel or even stainless over time.
Very informative. I've always wondered if you could weld stainless with mild steel rods but never tried it. Now I know. Lots of good info here. Thanks for sharing. Dan
It's not just about the rusting but also structural strength. Read up on the Schaeffler DeLong diagram to see how the wrong filler can make it brittle and crack. Welding with steel filler on stainless could cause it to form martensite which is brittle. That's why you need an even higher alloy filler when you weld a mild steel part to a stainless steel part to compensate and prevent martensite to form.
I am wondering is that SS coupon is rusting due to contamination OR do to the fact that you removed the passivated layer and exposed fresh iron that is part of that SS rather than contamination.
Imagine the guy you had weld your SS project told you he ran out of wire, but he watch this video and thought it would be okay to finish with steel filler.
I refurbish tanker suspension all the time using carbon steel wire. The Hendrickson air ride suspension is carbon steel from the factory, glued to stainless frame rails. The factory uses stainless wire, we don't. The only real difference is where the paint line falls between the suspension and frame and how many ceramic grinding disks I need to go through to clean off the original welds after I cut the old rusty hangers off.
I realize this is an older video, but I have an exhaust I'm building on a budget that part stainless, part mild, and I'm using flux mild. I'm wondering if it's painted immediately after cooling off if the resistance to rust will be better? New sub btw, great info!
The heat cycling for exhaust is what you're really fighting with rust, not just exposure to air. It gets hot, then you shut it off, then you start again.
Noob here, I'm going to attempt to weld a 304 stainless Magnaflow muffler to my dads stock exhaust tubing with 309L in a cheap Eastwood multi-process unit. Am I doing it right lol?
Wee question for ya. Apart from the corrosion resistance issue, which you have shown brilliantly, would you say there is any issue in the strength of weld when welding steel legs to a stainless steel plate?
I welded some mild steel rods onto a sheet of stainless to hold up a 75’ 4/0 awg extension cord and it’s holding up fine. It’s inside my shop and painted so I’m not worried about it rusting.
Question is: is it really the base metal rusting or only the deposits from the contaminated brush? It would be interesting to check for pitting after few days of rust solution exposure
The Fabrication Series and then, would pitting more severe when contaminated compared to clean stainless steel. If you still have the samples, it would be good to soak them and wait for few days. Good stuffs as usual btw ;)
@Dennis Young Yeah. 309L will do a fine job of giving you that look. Have fun! On a side note, use lap joints. Lots of thermal mass on each side of the weld, plus the back of the weld is usually covered with a clamp, so it doesn't sugar up.
I love the fronuis machines and what they can do. My worry is the torch doesn’t look like you can just swap over a torch from any normal Dinse Tig welder torch.
The Fabrication Series really that’s interesting. I’m looking to buy another machine, it’s Between the invertig 221 (Stel version if I can get it) and the fronuis. Is that a 200 amp version? Which would you go with?
I think the rust only on the surface for the remaining of the steel brush, so if you don’t mind the look then you’ll be okay, and you should clean it anyway if you’ll gonna paint it!
That stuff about the wire wheel, I am not sure why anyone should care. That oxide was forming from stuff left from the wheel but it can't possibly be more than a thousandth deep. Yeah it looks ugly and could possibly make a customer complain but you wipe it off and that's it. [as opposed to rusting steel which flakes off and then rusts some more eventually leading to structural problems]
Say that again when you're dealing with higly corosive atmosphere or food grade stuff. Tiny particules will embed themselves, and lead to rusting no mater how hard you wipe (maybe something like beadblast will get them off but anyway) And corosion leads to more corosion. So it might rust deeper than just the surface, even though it's stainless
@@trygveskogsholm5963 can't remember if it's because of galvanic corosion or because you have chrome oxydes deeper in the material that are the reason stainless does not stain ... (Chrome on top get oxyded and forms an airtight barrier preventing the formation of iron oxyde, aka rust. But without that chrome oxyde layer it would rust as any other Steel would)
@@InformatrIIcks but corrosion is oxidation. If there are no oxidizers 'beneath the surface' there is no corrosion. If there are oxidizers an oxide layer is formed.
@@trygveskogsholm5963 researched it. It's more complicated than this. There is a galvanic coupling between the iron particule and the passivated layer, which will create rust by consuming iron and the passivated layer. You then get crevice or pitting corosion because it's not passivated underneath. The short answer is : if you're welding in your garage for yourself you probably don't care and that's fine. But if you're welding for any kind of industry you should follow the code, and the code says "no contamination". I would add that it says that for good reasons
canadian welder This episode is about welding stainless steel with mild filler. It's not about how to weld mild to stainless. Did you even bother watching or listening before making this comment?
The Fabrication Series your not the one who teaches welders to the right way so they can get certified. Kids these days pay more attention to online videos,welding stainless steel with steel wire is technically wrong so why do it. When I'm asked if you can weld stainless steel with steel wire the answer is NO!
Again, did you even watch or listen? What you're talking about is not what this episode is about. The purpose is to answer the question about welding stainless with mild steel FILLER. It is not about welding mild steel to stainless steel using 309. The answer is - yes. You CAN weld with mild steel filler, but there will be problems. It does not encourage people to weld with mild steel filler. It does not state that it is acceptable. Those who are paying attention to the video will have learned that and will probably make fantastic welders. If you would pay attention to what people are asking, you'd probably fill them in with what they need to learn which are things like cause and effect - not "whatever I say is right because [insert my expert online comment resume]." You need to pay attention.
The Fabrication Series I'm a CWB welding supervisor ( 47.1 and 47.2) with 37 years experience welding stainless steel and aluminum. What you are doing is not certified welding practice so why waste your time doing something bad. My junior welders always say I seen this and that on UA-cam,Then I waste my time correcting the bullshit they see
canadian welder I do it because people want to know more than just an answer with no explanation. Theres more to education than "yes or no" answers. You have to add the "what and how" to it. If you don't make it very well understood, you failed as an instructor. Now your internet resume is just as fantastic as the others who fail to pay attention to the material which always brings the question to mind - Why are you watching if you really are what you say?
Thoughts on the reverse scenario - using 308L wire on mild steel - ?
I continue to learn stuff I never really paid much attention to before. Thanks Justin!
Great video with very useful information. If you're using stainless for the metal, it's for a reason, so you should weld with it too. Glad you got a chance to put this together.
I'm not fabricator thereby not a welder as well but I'm learning. I can truly understand how it's important to have a clean material surface no matter what. Thanks for the video I've got another piece of the puzzle figured out.
My own experience with contaminating stainless steel with a normal wire brush, is that it isn't the stainless steel that rust, it's the contamination itself, but if left on the steel it will make craters in it over time, so wipe it off with oil (WD-40 or similar) and a stainless scotch pad, and problem (in most cases) solved. :)
J Rand Its all flash rust as far as contamination is concerned.
So yes, you can weld stainless with regular filler wire but it will rust if left unprotected. This is useful information for guys like me who just do repairs on their own equipment. I've got a few wheelbarrows that have stainless frames that occasionally break and crack and unfortunately, I can't weld stainless right now as I have no access to shielding gas.
I know this is an older comment but they sell 308L stainless stick electrodes at tractor supply. I used them to fix a stainless sink at a restaurant.
In the early 90's I had a welding job that required over 3000 meters of tig weld on stainless steel moulds for making chicken nuggets for an international company whose logo was an arch motif. These got stacked outside after welding and a large number of them developed lines of rust along fold lines. The contractor that had done the press brake work had used a press brake that had previously been used on mil;d steel, as you can imagine there was a big kerfuffle over the whole thing. It ended up that the whole lot had to be sent for acid etching and bead blasting as there was far to much work and material involved to redo the batch. The problem is caused by the dilution of chromium oxide on the surface and once corrosion starts it will go all the way through.
other metals can have weird reactions with steel as well.. large steel ocean ships use large blocks of magnesium called sacrificial annodes attached to the hull to prevent rusting and the blocks need to be replaced from time to time as they corrode away instead of the ships. another fun one is titanium, if you use a titanium bolt in a steel hole the titanium will have a reaction and weld itself to the steel or even stainless over time.
Arch motif. 😄
Your welder looks like a character from cars the movie
Nice one, thanks for taking the time to make educational videos.
Very informative. I've always wondered if you could weld stainless with mild steel rods but never tried it. Now I know. Lots of good info here. Thanks for sharing. Dan
It's not just about the rusting but also structural strength. Read up on the Schaeffler DeLong diagram to see how the wrong filler can make it brittle and crack. Welding with steel filler on stainless could cause it to form martensite which is brittle. That's why you need an even higher alloy filler when you weld a mild steel part to a stainless steel part to compensate and prevent martensite to form.
That was a good clip. A lot of people would not have known about the rust factor and impregnation.
You have a nice collection of welders, ...... Bravo !!
I am wondering is that SS coupon is rusting due to contamination OR do to the fact that you removed the passivated layer and exposed fresh iron that is part of that SS rather than contamination.
Welp. Saw this video after I welded my entire exhaust together with mild steel filler. Lol. Well that was some good welding practice. 😆
Just get some hi temp paint in the color you want and it wont rust lol
Hows exhaust hold up since
Imagine the guy you had weld your SS project told you he ran out of wire, but he watch this video and thought it would be okay to finish with steel filler.
That’s comparative to the “stainless steel brake line kit” packages that come with plain steel cadmium or zinc plated fittings.
Another question for you. Can I back purge stainless with C25 instead of straigt argon? welding with Argon of course.
Scantron's Garage Nope.
cool! thx
Can you please do an instructional video on uphill vertical mig
I refurbish tanker suspension all the time using carbon steel wire. The Hendrickson air ride suspension is carbon steel from the factory, glued to stainless frame rails.
The factory uses stainless wire, we don't.
The only real difference is where the paint line falls between the suspension and frame and how many ceramic grinding disks I need to go through to clean off the original welds after I cut the old rusty hangers off.
Quick question what if you painting them would the rust still be a problem over time
Not really. If you live in a dry area like arizona it doesnt really matter since there is only moisture in the air for about 2 weeks out of the year😂
If you passivate (sp) would that protect the areas that were wire brushed?
Rob Townsend That's something I would like to find out.
I realize this is an older video, but I have an exhaust I'm building on a budget that part stainless, part mild, and I'm using flux mild. I'm wondering if it's painted immediately after cooling off if the resistance to rust will be better? New sub btw, great info!
The heat cycling for exhaust is what you're really fighting with rust, not just exposure to air. It gets hot, then you shut it off, then you start again.
Thanks for the lesson!
Excellent video, thank you.
ive never considered my brushes contaminating my stuff. (mostly self taught). that explains some things. lol
I never use a wire brush to clean my stainless I only use an acid cleaner for this exact reason
Noob here, I'm going to attempt to weld a 304 stainless Magnaflow muffler to my dads stock exhaust tubing with 309L in a cheap Eastwood multi-process unit. Am I doing it right lol?
paint the welds?
I accidentally mixed my 308 n 309 rods is there gonna be any issue or should toss them
Wee question for ya. Apart from the corrosion resistance issue, which you have shown brilliantly, would you say there is any issue in the strength of weld when welding steel legs to a stainless steel plate?
I welded some mild steel rods onto a sheet of stainless to hold up a 75’ 4/0 awg extension cord and it’s holding up fine. It’s inside my shop and painted so I’m not worried about it rusting.
what voltage and wirespeed was used?
great info, thanks, the solution is a mix of white vinegar and salt?? isn't it, what proportions??
great video!!!
wow learned a lot thank you
How many welding machines you gonna collect?
idriwzrd you never have enough welding machines :-)
What kind of filler rod can you use for aluminized steel ???
Can u weld mild steel and hi tensile steel together
Justin, Can a leftover partial spool of stainless wire be used to weld a mild steel to mild steel project ? (the project would be painted afterward)
Question is: is it really the base metal rusting or only the deposits from the contaminated brush? It would be interesting to check for pitting after few days of rust solution exposure
Pièces Auto Dépot Its mostly flash from the deposits. More exposure could result in pitting.
The Fabrication Series and then, would pitting more severe when contaminated compared to clean stainless steel. If you still have the samples, it would be good to soak them and wait for few days. Good stuffs as usual btw ;)
I weld mild with stainless all the time.. as I am to lazy to change my might wire... 😂
WezleyB Mild with 309 can be done all day long but stainless with mild will rust which is the point of the vid.
@Dennis Young Yeah. 309L will do a fine job of giving you that look. Have fun! On a side note, use lap joints. Lots of thermal mass on each side of the weld, plus the back of the weld is usually covered with a clamp, so it doesn't sugar up.
@@TheFabricatorSeries so the only issue is the weld will eventually rust if i weld mild to stainless?
that is a pretty cool video.
can you tack weld a 304 stainless to mild steel with flux wire and no gas does not need to hold weight
Yeah, but it's messy.
The real question....I don't want to buy a special bottle to weld stainless once every 10 year. Do I NEED different gas?
I love the fronuis machines and what they can do. My worry is the torch doesn’t look like you can just swap over a torch from any normal Dinse Tig welder torch.
Welding Junkie The TIG torch itself is a Fronius torch but dinse connectors are dinse connectors. Any through type 35 will connect.
The Fabrication Series really that’s interesting. I’m looking to buy another machine, it’s Between the invertig 221 (Stel version if I can get it) and the fronuis. Is that a 200 amp version? Which would you go with?
Welding Junkie do you not already have an htp tig ?
Welding Junkie What type of machine are you wanting?
If I had a nickel for every stainless sink rust spot I've ever seen, I'd have about $3.35, stainless does stain eventually.
For more fun.. stick weld mild steel with stainless stick.
you have a great hair style.....
Powder coating will fix that but using the mig does that take away from the integrity of the stainless
I think the rust only on the surface for the remaining of the steel brush, so if you don’t mind the look then you’ll be okay, and you should clean it anyway if you’ll gonna paint it!
That stuff about the wire wheel, I am not sure why anyone should care. That oxide was forming from stuff left from the wheel but it can't possibly be more than a thousandth deep. Yeah it looks ugly and could possibly make a customer complain but you wipe it off and that's it. [as opposed to rusting steel which flakes off and then rusts some more eventually leading to structural problems]
Say that again when you're dealing with higly corosive atmosphere or food grade stuff. Tiny particules will embed themselves, and lead to rusting no mater how hard you wipe (maybe something like beadblast will get them off but anyway)
And corosion leads to more corosion. So it might rust deeper than just the surface, even though it's stainless
@@InformatrIIcks "And corosion leads to more corosion." Really what's the mechanism there?
@@trygveskogsholm5963 can't remember if it's because of galvanic corosion or because you have chrome oxydes deeper in the material that are the reason stainless does not stain ... (Chrome on top get oxyded and forms an airtight barrier preventing the formation of iron oxyde, aka rust. But without that chrome oxyde layer it would rust as any other Steel would)
@@InformatrIIcks but corrosion is oxidation. If there are no oxidizers 'beneath the surface' there is no corrosion. If there are oxidizers an oxide layer is formed.
@@trygveskogsholm5963 researched it. It's more complicated than this.
There is a galvanic coupling between the iron particule and the passivated layer, which will create rust by consuming iron and the passivated layer. You then get crevice or pitting corosion because it's not passivated underneath.
The short answer is : if you're welding in your garage for yourself you probably don't care and that's fine. But if you're welding for any kind of industry you should follow the code, and the code says "no contamination". I would add that it says that for good reasons
This sucks...I might be looking for a new job.
You are fooling yourself,professional welders use 309 to weld stainless steel to mild steel. To right cover you ass way
canadian welder This episode is about welding stainless steel with mild filler. It's not about how to weld mild to stainless. Did you even bother watching or listening before making this comment?
The Fabrication Series your not the one who teaches welders to the right way so they can get certified. Kids these days pay more attention to online videos,welding stainless steel with steel wire is technically wrong so why do it. When I'm asked if you can weld stainless steel with steel wire the answer is NO!
Again, did you even watch or listen? What you're talking about is not what this episode is about. The purpose is to answer the question about welding stainless with mild steel FILLER. It is not about welding mild steel to stainless steel using 309. The answer is - yes. You CAN weld with mild steel filler, but there will be problems. It does not encourage people to weld with mild steel filler. It does not state that it is acceptable. Those who are paying attention to the video will have learned that and will probably make fantastic welders. If you would pay attention to what people are asking, you'd probably fill them in with what they need to learn which are things like cause and effect - not "whatever I say is right because [insert my expert online comment resume]." You need to pay attention.
The Fabrication Series I'm a CWB welding supervisor ( 47.1 and 47.2) with 37 years experience welding stainless steel and aluminum. What you are doing is not certified welding practice so why waste your time doing something bad. My junior welders always say I seen this and that on UA-cam,Then I waste my time correcting the bullshit they see
canadian welder I do it because people want to know more than just an answer with no explanation. Theres more to education than "yes or no" answers. You have to add the "what and how" to it. If you don't make it very well understood, you failed as an instructor.
Now your internet resume is just as fantastic as the others who fail to pay attention to the material which always brings the question to mind - Why are you watching if you really are what you say?
You speaking too fast
I know this is almost 2 years old but what would happen if mig SS with SS wire and use 75/25 gas?
Justin, Can a leftover partial spool of stainless wire be used to weld a mild steel to mild steel project ? (the project would be painted afterward)