Galant VR-4 Subframe Restoration Part 3
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- Опубліковано 30 кві 2023
- Special thanks to Patreon, Detective Coating, all of you Tubes, Abe and Robert for all of your help with doing this. All of you are the reason I get to experience these restorations like this and I love sharing this work. If you'd like to contribute to my production and projects, please visit / jafromobile for more behind the scenes info and 24-hour early ad-free access to new uploads. You can actually become a part of my proofreading and screening team for only $1 per upload. Get involved!
I've done 12 videos with Robert, let's now make it a baker's dozen. It was nice to have him back for some S'mores. My friend Abe owns every socket and extension known to mankind. Restoration work on the Galant is progressing by leaps and bounds. I divided the restoration work between two different shops to complete all of the refinishing work twice as fast and it worked! All the mechanicals are here!!!
Most of what has to be done to restore 1g all wheel drive subframes and drivetrain parts I've already covered in great detail with Robert, including the installation of the Volk or JayRacing toe eliminator kits that I showed here. We also rebuilt Lobro Joints, driveshafts, bushings, carrier bearings, u-joints, K-members, mustache bar, basically every subframe part and bushing. We did it already. And Robert was actually the first guy at the track to ever beat my Elantra after I took possession of it. Its very first pass. The boosted beaver got me! Glad I kept that loss in the family.
My video format is very different today, it's plays more like informal cliff notes of our previous work, but it's only a couple of videos this time instead of 12. But, I dug all of them up just in case you were curious to see what I looked like and sounded like 11 years ago. All of these tech videos are all on-topic with anyone doing 1g DSM or Galant subframe work because they both use the same parts. I promise you that none of the technology has changed at all.
My Elantra's first-ever drag pass here:
• Jafro's Hyundai Elantr...
Swag joints & rear subframe tech:
• Swag Joints ...& Rear ...
JayRacing 1g AWD Rear Active Toe Correction Kit Install:
• JayRacing 1g AWD Rear ...
Rear LCA bushing install:
• Rear LCA bushing install
1g AWD Rear Subframe Bushing Replacement:
• 1g AWD Rear Subframe B...
Racing against me at Richmond Dragway and beating up the Hyundai really, really bad. Multiple times.
• Jafro's Hyundai Elantr...
Driveshaft 101 - Parts, Tools & Tips
• Driveshaft 101 - Parts...
Driveshaft 102 - Remove Universal Joints
• Driveshaft 102 - Remov...
Driveshaft 103 - Replacing carrier bearings
• Driveshaft 103 - Repla...
Driveshaft 104 - Lobro Joint Tech
• Driveshaft 104 - Lobro...
Driveshaft 105 - Install U-joints
• Driveshaft 105 - Insta...
Drag passes after the driveshaft rebuild... (figuring out all the new changes)
• Drag passes after the ...
OH YEAH!... and go check out Aaron Anderson's CSMtv channel, too! His cars actually run.
/ @csmtv1320 - Авто та транспорт
your attention to detail soothes my ocd
I approve of the clutch shirt and burning out the old bushings
It's from the first show of the latest tour!
This is what I've been waiting for....someone to thoroughly work on our GVR4...
Always glad to have you swing by so we can assist with the restorations! I love seeing it all come together on here too, it's not often we get to see everything re-installed, especially everything under the car. Country style donuts are the bomb! Thank you as always sir!
I wondered what happened to Robert. I don't blame him for not posting much anymore. It's a time-expensive hobby, so I'm just grateful for the ones he shared.
For those who don't know who Robert is, look for the boosted Beaver channel.
First Binky now you, gonna be great week.
I always look forward to watching one, or many of your videos
even if i should be sleeping 🤫
34:53 Aww I love that little buddy! He's the best part of this video and that's saying something!
Talon says "thank you!"
Long story short, over the past few years, as much as I could get done each spring through fall and in between all the other things I've had going on, I've done most of the restoration work you've done on your Galant and GSX on my '92 Talon TSi AWD manual.
E.g. removed and completely overhauled/restored/rebuilt the entire front and rear suspension including subframes, members, control arms and strut assemblies, with new bushings when they were available, all four brake calipers, the driveshaft, rear bumper (taking on the front soon), fuel tank, and the manual transmission and shifter for good measure (took both completely apart and rebuilt them)
Replaced everything that typically needs to be replaced, e.g. pads, rotors, plugs, plug wires, PCV. thermostat, radiator, air filter (K&N), fuel filter, hoses, belts, TB/BB/WP, brake and clutch hoses, and a bunch of stuff I can't even remember. Also removed a ton of rust and treated it with POR-15 or KBS (initially used Rustoleum which is crap as I learned the hard way so I had to redo it all).
Also some relatively minor fixes, like stuck/slow/misaligned power windows, faulty radio, rear washer, etc. Now I'm about to do the same for the throttle, intake, exhaust and turbo, cleaning and replacing what needs to be cleaned and replaced. Also hope to try and fix the AC which only broke a year or so ago after 30 years (original and only owner yes you read that right), and the front bumper. Then it's on to the body, cleaning, removing dents and scratches, painting. And replacing the headliner and some weatherstrip.
The goal is to get it back as close to the condition it was in when I bought it, no true mods, just some relatively minor upgrades here and there like ES bushings, a K&N air filter, braided SS brake and clutch hoses, kevlar TB/BB, etc. I don't track or race it. It's my DD/road trip car. So no mods needed. No deletes either, as I like my creature comforts. I had a lot of fun driving it cross-country years ago so I'm trying to get it back to the shape it was in back then. It's a nice car, as you know.
But I have to chuckle every time I see one of your videos because I'm thinking "Yeah, been there, done that, uhuh, exactly, yep, that was hard, that was a pain, that wasn't fun, etc.". Like, removing the rear suspension bushings. Way harder than the fronts, had to drill, hacksaw, punch, pry, etc. And removing all that rust. I don't have a blasting setup so it was mostly a die grinder and rotary tool (I initially used a drill and driver with wire wheels but learned the hard way that this was really slow and inefficient).
I should be done with all the mechanical work this summer. Probably won't be able to do much about the body till next year, as that's a whole other thing about which I know very little. Thankfully the engine appears to be just fine so no work needed there. I want to be able to just drive the damn thing and go on road trips again so I can't wait till this is all over. Thanks for the informative and wry videos!
Another Old-School and little used today coating process is Electrostatic Dipped, like my Buick was. Powder coating is about the same, except then you bake it, right?
Yea, they didn't bake my car, 🤣
This video was really nice. It was cool to see old Friends together.
No drunken fights, the only *shootouts* are at the Track!
You'd think we'd get tired of watching you wrench on these older Mitsubishis, no damn way! This particular video had a classic Jafro vibe to it. Love the CSMtv shirt too! Awesome job as always brother!
"Fire does all the work for you,..." amen and amen. The almighty lever can take a break. You smell that, that smell, that gasoline smell? That's Napalm, smells like,... S'mores!
Teflon tape wrapped around polyurethane bushings and sleeves helps prevent squeaks.
Here you go with the good advice again! ;)
Better advice will it be if you had written it some years ago when I did mine. Grease goes away...
I just regrease mine if it bothers me enough but usually if you liberally apply it it lasts quite a long time, and poly bushings are worth pretty much any NVH just for the performance increase and overall feel alone. Personally, it never really bothered me on any of my daily drivers or track cars if I had a little squeaking here and there.
@@pdee886 I always wanted to add a grease fitting to the sleeves somehow, but without seals or an o-ring my idea always seemed kind of pointless because the grease would just run out the biggest gap.
The fact that I can binge these videos at work. Keep up the good work! Makes me wish I kept all of the dsms I owned over the years. I wouldn't have to be watching these at work 🤣
hey Jafro! I finally got my galant running thanks to many helpful videos of yours. You have even taken the time to answer a few questions for me in the comments. THANK YOU! I did the rear suspension and subframe items first almost two years ago and this video is definitely a throw back to me working with the hubs and spindles with my harbor freight tool arsenal. ha!
I really appreciate your format for your videos. I usually can't finish a 20 minute video because there's too much UA-camr "look at me! I'm awesome but no, I mean, just like you!" time. Yours are showing something being done, typically instructional and a nice pace of constant voice over with tips, suggestions and tasteful humor. Keep those "PrEvos" alive sir.
Yup. Always work in mirror, if you work on one side, you work on the other too. It's like becoming a true machinist happens only when all the parts you spit out have chamfered edges as a natural reflex, not a requirement of your bleeding fingers. When that thing enters your thought stream and you do it mechanically.
timken.. skf.. national.. i love seeing Quality parts. its so different when you do your own work vs taking it in. good stuff Jafro
Amateur tip if you dont have a press: After lighting the bushes on fire like in the video, you can use a metal handsaw to remove the remaining sleeve. Just detach the sawblade, thread it through the sleeve and re-attach it to the saw.
Sawing a slit in the sleeve makes it real easy to remove. Then you can just bash the new bushing in using a regular hammer and a piece of wood/plastic as a buffer.
If you don't care about potentially damaging the bushing slot slightly, you can also use a sawsall to cut the sleeve instead, it's way faster.
nice to see the galant content coming fast!
Coincidentally, I was working on my 95 Talon when I got the notification for this. Perfect way to relax after some solid time in the garage! As usual, excellent video and progress Jafro!
So many great car owners here, I couldn't be happier. I'm glad to hear it getting some love! T'is the season after all! It helps me big time to know in 2023 that I'm not the only one! ;) It feels like I am sometimes when I'm looking for parts. Thanks David!
@Jafromobile hope you see this quickly. I have a pesky oil leak somewhere on the front cover of a 98 7 bolt dsm. Timing is all torn down and still in the Car. Can I spin the oil pump enough to have the leak potentially present itself while I can see everything clearly?
You should grab an on car wheel bearing kit. OTC makes the best one called a hub tamer/shark. The truck brands all rebrand it for their own sale. If you’re doing wheel bearings 3 times a week, it’s 100% worth the expenditure. For everyone else, the cheap amazon kits work quite well, and at the very least, you get a pile of new cups to use in your press.
Keep up the great work. Always love when there’s a new jafro video uploaded.
I aspire to go through my toyota pickups with the same attention to detail in the next couple years. Love the work!
Always enjoy your videos. Im not a DSM guy but generally speaking you usually cut a little off your bump stops when installing lowering springs. I always do on the hundreds of cars I've put springs on. I usually chop the bump stops at around what the supposed drop is for the springs. If those are H&R's for example, usually the H&R sport springs are around like 1.5"-1.7" drop on the majority of cars I've installed them on. I'd be willing to bet they're around that height for the Galant. I've always had good results with the H&R's and I've had experience with the sport/ race springs as well as their coilovers, especially the 'Ultra-lows.' You could always modify your AGX's to run a set of QUALITY sleeve coilovers like some Ground Controls, with your choice of # springs and a set of camber plates. I've had amazing results on a more budget minded coilover setup with the GC/ Koni or GC/ Bilstein setup. Its even a setup thats capable on the track with all the goodies like sways, plates, bushings, etc and they work quite well when you figure your spring rates, corner balance, and of course, a properly setup alignment based on your needs/ what you're using the car for mainly. I'm frankly kind of a nerd when it comes to suspension tuning/ track setup if you couldn't already tell. LOL😂 loved the video Jaffro, keep up the great work and keep the videos coming man! 👍😎
My dude!!!!!! 28:33 got me grinning ear to ear. Did a killer job restoring all suspension parts, love where this project is going.
Even after all this time it still takes me by surprise you now have long hair 😁
Jafro is dropping new videos again!!!! And UA-cam didn’t bother telling me until now!!! I’ve been waiting for years!!! 😂😎
Algorithms don't promote channels that make people think.
@@Jafromobile well, I can’t begin to tell you how much I love your videos and how much they have helped me when working on my own cars! You have probably the best content I have found on UA-cam, and its been years since I saw this channel, I don’t know how much I have missed because your new stuff just now popped up on my feed!
@@MrBlitzkrieg1987 Holy cow you've missed enough content to fill the same time slot as binge watching the entire LOTR collection 4 times.
@@Jafromobile oh I’ll catch up! Trust me 😂
Those Doughnuts looked amazing. You guys in the U.S sure do know how to do some good eating
The top right is Apple Crumb. Apple pie filling donut with cinnamon, crumbled pie crust topping and powdered sugar. My all-time favorite, and it's really messy. If I shared/showed the Beef Brisket that I ate with Abe at Mission BBQ, you'd probably move here. We do have some incredible food, and different regions all have their own specialties, but I have to confess that the best chefs I've ever experienced in my lifetime were all in Quebec. It wasn't just a meal, it was an experience, and they owned you once you sat down for the rest of the evening. It was very different from the eat-and-run American way of doing things. They run at a different speed, but they make great food you'll never forget. I stayed a week in Quebec City. I'd do it again, and I'd still be really really cold.
ngl the patina on those struts is fugging dope haha
Did we catch you sleeping on your blast cabinet? Wow, that is commitment! Thanks for another entertaining video.
As always, great content. Love to see the progress. Cool to see a lesser-known JDM getting some love
love those excel-g´s had them on my tdi with eibach spring(nothing special) and they gave me great mix of comfort and handling.
I remember having to torch new bushings, just to use the sleeve. At the time, I was replacing the suspension in a Fiero, and the sleeves on the old bushings were rusting to pieces. And I was installing polyurethane bushings. Sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do.
He definitely did a nice job on the powder coating. I used to do it for work. You should be fine to use brake parts cleaner though. That powder coat should be totally resistant to any of the normal automotive chemicals. If he said otherwise then yeah listen to him, but just what I think I know. Anything you spray painted you'll want to avoid the brake clean. Awesome work as always. Video went by quick!
Still gotta be careful with brake fluid though. It will make it bubble up if you get any on powdercoat
@@Eastahtata It's funny because I have seen testing that shows it does nothing, but at the same time I have experience that it does. I almost wonder if it depends on the brand or something. Either way, I'd definitely avoid it. I'd rather clean some off with brake parts cleaner than let it sit that's for sure.
Justin did not warn me about anything I said in the video, that all came from my own experience. I figured it out the hard way on a few of my parts that Justin didn't coat. It did.a thing that I couldn't put in front of show judges once, and that time it was actually with carb cleaner. But since that time I've never met a mess that soapy water didn't clean up. Which is nice, really. It's a lot less toxic, and you've already got a non-stick coating.
I don't actually buy brake cleaner. And nothing chlorinated will ever come in to my shop because we weld here. All I use is Berkebile 2+2, and it wrecks absolutely everything that isn't bare metal. Whenever I'm using that stuff it's because that's what I need to do at the time. It's mostly acetone just like brake cleaner and carb cleaner... but it's got methylbenzene, xylene, toluene... way worse stuff in it. It's great! But it's not chlorinated.
I also learned the hard way from overheating once (caused by air bubble in system on first startup, it got a great first heat cycle) that scalding hot coolant is also really bad for powder coating. My "almost chrome" water pipe turned flat grey where it splashed. Coolant overflow hose blew off. Again, not the same powders or Justin's work at all, but these are the kinds of things today that I will still go out of my way to avoid. I'm even picky about the texture of rag I'm willing to use to clean powder coating just to avoid swirling, but ALL of this is only because I kept putting it in front of show judges, so I suppose my intent and past experience is a bit different than most people's would be today. That would kinda shape my own advice this way.
@@Jafromobile All good to know and best practices are best practices. Properly applied, brakleen should at worst dull the finish on most powder coats a bit, but obviously it would be nice to avoid that too! Anything chlorinated is definitely nasty as well. Inhale some of that stuff you accidentally light on fire once and you won't forget it. Welding too, of course. Too many ways to injure yourself or die in a car shop if you aren't careful. Thanks for the advice and I typically stick to water based degreasers at worst for my heavy duty cleaning these days too.
BOM and Jafro within a few days? Someone sacrificed a virgin to the internet gods.
❤❤ the attention to detail is the best i been watching you for years you’re a huge inspiration
I live not too far from there, great doughnuts
You should drop by a local fleamarket whenever one shows up and buy the metal bits your press needs to function. You're making Nth more work for yourself by not having those and unlike the cheap press, those will last you a life time. I've press bits from my great grandpa's steam press, from back in the war, all the way down and i swear, having those bits is a game changer.
I'd love to have all that stuff, and I don't even own a press yet! Matt picked up a bushing press kit which would have been helpful initially. Some of that set can be useful on a press, and at some point I'll have to use it. But Abe had all the dies in different sizes that you're talking about, and he absolutely killed it.
You powder coated over the rubber breather on the rear calipers for the sliding pin.
Making me jealous with all those shiny parts.
Another informative video, you can upgrade your sand blaster to a wet media blaster very easily now days with kits and watching UA-cam videos and it's not expensive.
Matt's been coming up with all kinds of ideas lately, it could happen. It's Matt's cabinet. Whenever you see the walls change to that paint job I'm in Matt's shop. He's even added all of the powder coating stuff in house now. I'm still using detective for my work, but I might wind up doing a few small things, especially later when I get into fab work.
just love it! this restoration rubs me ALL the right ways! thanx jafro, really, THANK YOU!
I had poly bushings in my S2000 and they were noisy at low speed but way better ride quality and handling. The better option IMO. I used shoe lasts for support, out of necessity, on my press when changing the wheel barings and it worked. There's a lot of good info in this video which is why I watched it twice.
I'm going to do this one day on my GVR4. Love the attention to detail on the suspension restoration.
This new shop has brought life into your narrator voice. I can hear a little giddiness in your voice. It can also be from the fact that you love your new parts that are shiny, but still, happy to see and hear you have gotten a little morale boost and are uploading more frequently. :). I'm happy for you and can't wait for the next episode! :)
Amazing job as always.
@jafromobile You pull springs like a man and I appreciate it greatly!
love watching this, stumbled onto your channel when I was rebuilding my Mitsu Montero SR DOHC
I did all poly bushings on my 2006 miata. I was afraid it would make the car louder, but it mostly didn't. The differential bushings made the diff louder, but it wasn't that bad. Definitely a worth while investment if you got bouncy or loose suspension parts.
Awesome episode also driving form Norfolk,VA to Memphis,TN so I’m definitely gonna get a box of donuts for the trip
I can smell how good those parts after powder coating!😏
I think you and your spine need about a foot and a half of wood blocks under the legs of that sandblaster Jafro. Thanks for the years of run :)
I love that i learn something new every time i watch one of your vids. Almost no other channel does that for me.
Btw, i hope your brother is recovering. Been thinking about that whole ordeal a lot, lately.
He's still fighting, and he's happy to be doing it. He's one tough dude. Mis-diagnosed Lyme disease can turn into something diabolical, and he still can't be on his feet for very long. He's well past the worst of it, but it's been a complicated recovery. I'm inspired by his attitude through all of it.
@@Jafromobile Makes me happy to hear, that there's progress happening. What a champ :D
Thanks for the update, homie. I really appreciate it!
Yes I did mine new bushings and toe eliminator installed
thank you buddy for another amazing video with very detailed content..as always, thank you for your hard work and dedication to making these videos and taking the time to edit them the way you do...awesome!.. god bless!..
Did that feel at all like 40 minutes?
@@Jafromobile lol no it didnt.. it felt more like a 20min video
Fantastic work my friend! Wow! Powder Coating is so satisfying. No “Boombox” press this time? The GVR4 is going to be absolutely mint when she’s done!
Oh, dang... it took me a while to remember what that meant. lol! Nope, that one was a much bigger press, actually! I sure miss my cuz.
looking good! im restoring a galant vr4 at the moment as well. Instantly made the call for my calipers to be re done. ive been waiting for you to start this galant!
Best. UA-camr. Ever. 💪💪💪👍👍👍
Randomly thought, I wonder if Jafro's still posting. Very pleasantly surprised. K
Great videos Jafro! I've been keeping up with all of them, but haven't though of much I could contribute in the comments. I am surprised to see you using poly bushings in the suspension arms though. Because poly doesn't twist like rubber I refuse to use them in any bushings that twist like suspension arms, though they are just fine for engine and diff mounts. Wish you would have mentioned that fact to the viewers, as these joints will now require constant lubrication to not wear themselves out over time. It's of course great to see all the progress you're making on your cars!
Beautiful narration .
Hey, man! Nice to see you!
Q: *@**28:47* Have you ever considered either easily fab DIY or
buy a used electric oven (220v) to bake enameled parts, or even
a HIGH heat gun to cure? "baked on enamel" used to be a big deal
years & years before powder coating existed. I've even used propane
Benz-O-Matic torch to cure ceramic coatings for headers & blocks in situ.
The heat makes stuff flow, speeds curing- I know you know that, I'm just rambling.
One's actually been installed already before I could finish this video. Stuff is getting baked onto part all over the place up here right now. I'm not against trying it. The factory enamel on all the subframe parts isn't your average paint. The factory used some great processes. There's a lot of great stuff that isn't sold to the public. You can't get anyone to match any of Carroll Shelby's work because the primer is outlawed. I wish I knew what the paint was that Mitsubishi used on their parts! It's not ceramic, but it's not your average paint.
Wholesome moments ❤❤❤❤
100% on country style donut.
Awwww...gonna leave us hanging without unwrapping the actual subframe!? lol
18:26 Removing those bushings...so easy a caveman could do it? 🤔😁
red callipers means more responsive braking
Someone makes a tapered cone tool that allows you to spin the flange and heat that wheel bearing race. Once it gets hot enough the race falls off. Super easy.
Jafro, our problem is people like us, we take something that was
*_engineered to fail after a certain time_* and prolong it's death.
People who do this with loved ones or pets (same thing IMO) are said
to be macabre and cruel; "scrap it and buy new" or be called "cheap"
because you don't follow the Lemmings & throw your money at some
new garbage, because it's "just a car".
I get misty eyed at salvage yards. All that death and destruction, mostly
because of careless people, either causing or being victim; the machine
has been ruined, deemed "beyond repair" by some "mechanic" who has
a shiny used whatever to sell the grieving owner.
Salvage yards are a field full of opportunity to harvest neglected gold from a carcass that puts another one of its relatives back on its feet. There is a finite amount of opportunity to be had, and the mechanics you see on the yard pulling parts are doing the lord's work. I find greater waste in replacement. There was once a time when durable goods earned their name. But yeah, doing that in an age where they don't is a little bit nuts!
So of course I see this right after I do my front lower control arms on my 92 Galant VR4 # 927. My question would be what would happen if you don't put the sleeve back in before you put the new poly bushing back in?
If you jack the car up and wiggle it, it will be floppy. Perhaps it's possible you used a brand of bushings that don't require the sleeve? I know that mine required it, but if yours did and you didn't use it, it would have kept trying to fall out of the LCA before you installed it. There would be a noticeable gap on the fit of the bushing.
You madman
Drive across town and eat bbq.
Sounds like code for go to harbor freight and hit up buz and neds🎉
и еще на верхние задние рычаги можно поставить сайлент блоки от тоеты
I was able to get my bushings out without burning them and I'm pretty sure I used a Harbor Freight Ball Joint press. I might have footage I can look at to confirm.
The Campfire Is key for the vid though
I also used the HF ball joint press on those awkward front control arm bushings.
❤
😍
28:04 Jafro is a cat
What lube are you using to install those bushes? Doesnt petroleum lube deteriorate poly?
Part 1 is missing now. Was it posted and deleted?
Nah, it's just not titled the same... All the subframe removal prep was in "GVR-4 Chassis Restoration Begins!" The beginning of the restoration started with the subframes is all. It seems confusing but that entire video was subframe removal prep.
Just spray painting won't hold up the factory paint is much better
Correct! All the things I painted are things that future upgrades are available for. It's planned obsolescence because it's money I don't have to spend YET.
Was that Frank Rizzo
Frank Rizzo! Open your ears Jackass!
They call me rubber neck
I wanna show you my goods.
How many Clutch T-shirts do you own?
14. All of them bought at shows. Funny you brought this up, I just counted them yesterday doing laundry... lol! I surprised even myself.
@@Jafromobile it's such a great band 😁
Car opera
Great video 😄. Are these "Febest" seals only avalible option, I've read many negative reviews for this brand, here in East Europe, but sometimes there are no other options in fact ... let's hope they are good 😅.
It's a start. I never quit looking for better ones, but we know I at least have them and we all know they're really FEQ brand. Both products are made in the same province of China, use the same font, and you can't find FEQ brand anymore... so obviously they figured out their acronym wasn't a very good marketing brand in the US. Because FEQ! That's why! lol
*@**34:15*
Oh, you'll regret it one night-
When you're in your local ER for 6 hours with a
Gallbladder attack or a clogged artery in your chest,
because you're addicted to the damn things like I was!
I'm donut free 2.7 years now. I saw that box and was instantly🤢🤮
Hey man... I just ate the holes. Everything in moderation!
Hey Jafro, you alluded to the pain in the ass that is removing bushing sleeves that are pressed into a subframe with no way of pushing them back out. Well...that is my reality right now on the '95 TSi AWD resto. You have any words of wisdom for getting those shells out? I've gotten two out by starting a cut with the dremel and punching it in until it gives way, but this seems horribly inefficient and the subframe itself is suffering some of the pain. Any thoughts?
Yes. Air chisel. If the sleeve is big enough, there is a bit that has a tooth, dead center in a chiseled blade. If you've ever seen that one in a set, you know exactly what I'm talking about. You can cut all the way across it with that without damaging the hole if the hole is big enough. You can also use the rounded punch to roll the sleeve inward and take some of the grip off it. Not every air chisel is equal. I had to do this on two of the [EDIT: excuse me, REAR] knuckles of my GSX that couldn't be accessed with a press. I had to use the round punch because the hole the sleeve was in was only about 24mm across. It's a lot less effort than cutting and hammering, you just pull a trigger and push. I'm about to do a 1995 suspension video, but where you're at I'm late, I'm afraid.
@@Jafromobile makes perfect sense, basically the pneumatic version of what I’ve been attempting to do. I’ll let you know how that works out. I saw you are going with the tubular volk rear subframe, so at least you’re avoiding most of the pain.
Btw, I'd like to donate a JDM fuel door for your Galant...
I'm so confused on how a gas door can be JDM? Remember I'm the Galant Noob here. :P
@@Jafromobile JDM fuel door doesn't have the key hole...just a solid door... I'm JNAVA on the Org
OH! Gotcha! Cool! Yes, in Japan they don't have to lock up their fuel supply. I forgot all about that. I suppose this is the true modern definition of "car culture"?
@@Jafromobile I left a message on the Galant Board....
как это все мне знакома, я потратил 2 года на свой galant.
I'm sitting here like... why not replace the struts... why not replace the ball joints... why not replace anything that isn't welded together.....
and yet he is building his car, and mine has a blown headgasket..... for 5 months now.
Please don't burn rubber. Just cut them out. It's really not that hard.
Maybe by the time your 60 you'll run a good time. For someone who knows everything you sure can't make a car fast
I would have un-subbed if you didnt pet the shop dog.
I like how Talon asked for permission from Justin for me to pet him first.
ahhh mitsubishi bob ross, serenity now
oh man i have been a suscrber for 10 years ++... yes sir tabe next video we will see drillbits :P then it's probably time to say my name is simon.. not teamviskat,