When spraying paint and or preservative always back brush while the coating is still wet. Back brushing forces more of the liquid into the cells of the wood. But all things considered , well done!
You're right. I had no intent to insult your intelligence. The problem lies with me. I frequently react negatively when I thing people misuse their words. I'm 72 years old and have worked as a carpenter most of my life so I've planted a post or two. I have used my rose bud diesel and used motor oil with great success. Thanks for the come back. Be well
Brush on is always the best practice, the brush forced the finish into the wood pores, or grain. As you said to speed things up, roll on, than brush it. Linked oil with mineral spirit also works, adding mildewcide accordingly.
I just had a rough sawn lumber shed delivered. I wanted to treat the lumber some how to ensure it resists bugs, water, mold etc. I am so happy i found this video. You made it look so simple. thanks a great bunch for this video!
Thanks Lisa. It is always great to get good feedback. We try to produce content that helps and entertains at the same time. We have a full playlist of milling videos. So great to have you as part of our milling family. If we can help in anyway just ask. Take care and have a great day
I have a product that I treated my shed with 50 years ago and the shed is still being used .. it’s called old used car sump oil .. and it’s really cheap
Glad you mentioned you are I. Canada. I m going to Home Depot to get this stuff. I m building an outdoor table and I was not sure what I should do about the wood if I should pressure treated wood or treat it myself.
Howdy y’all- this is great information. I’ve never heard of this product before but I will sure see if I can find it. Thank you so much for sharing this. Have a great weekend and I’ll see y’all Sunday morning. God’s blessings to y’all
I use a mixture of used oil that has sit for about a year to let any solids drop out, and diesel fuel for a 50/50 mix, I do two coats with an diy air sprayer, turns grey after it dries. Old timers say it will last just as long as anything on the market.
Thanks Tony for the demonstration and explanation. That will save money over time because of the price lumber. Y"all have a great weekend and God bless.
last treated lumber and post i got rotted from the inside out. i am not buying any more. yours will be way better i think your's help seal to. i hope every thing will work out for you. i would have never done any body the way he did you but people double dealed me before to. you need to get every thing done legal and in writing any more. i hope saint peter will deal with all these's evil people. take care, be safe and well.
Thanks John. We appreciate your support so much. In the future we most definitely won’t be taken advantage of like this again. The Lord will deal with them. In the meantime, we remain steadfast in our faith and resolve to build again.
omG, thank you very much, we just get some wood donated for our church entrance, Now I am going to home preasurre treated like that, I'll apreciated, very much.
It’s the exact same product they use in commercial pressure treatment. The difference is the big commercial mills have a pressure tank that the wood goes into. We have found if we put two coats on it penetrates really well and has excellent weather resistance
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead the level of penetration you guys get would be much less than a pressure treated process. Check this video out and it explains how it works; ua-cam.com/video/gTGGJjJd91A/v-deo.html
Armor all’s treatment works but the difference is pressure treated wood has all he moisture removed before the treatment ‘Alkaline Copper Quaternary’ and it’s fully preserved. This isn’t a bad method and it does work but for longevity I’ll spend the money on the treated wood for a bigger project any day of the week. A shed I’ll do this because it’s a shed and not part of a deck or living structure that I’d have to worry about a disaster years later. I’m not putting this guy down but I’d never do this on something big or for a customer. I know lots misinformed about this vs the real deal.
Well it looks like you "treated" your lumber for sure, but I don't see where you "pressure treated" it? The pressure part would be very difficult to do, so I doubt this would be the same.
I guess the title was meant to reflect the product you can end up with more so than the process. Sorry if it was misleading. That was never the intent. We do appreciate the feedback and comments. Have a great week. 👍
I have a question. We have an old deck that is clearly not pressure treated. I just had two posts replaced. The deck was painted we scrapped off as much paint as we could now plan to repaint. Can we pressure treat over the painted areas with this method? Thank u for your video and God Bless you with your new home!
Thanks for the great comment. It is good to get as much of the old paint off as you can. A method I find highly effective to remove old paint is to pressed wash it. Once that is done then I would apply at least two good applications of the treatment. Make sure you do both sides of the boards. Decks usually rot from the bottom out. Good luck and if I can help at all let me know. Take care and God bless.
Thanks Barb. It’s beautiful wood for sure. We are using it on our new home build. Trying to get as much lumber milled as we can before we start building
Thanks for watching friend. I’m of the mindset that when it comes to treating wood, more is always better. It certainly wouldn’t hurt it. Especially on the end going in the ground.
This video is still helping people 2 years later so thank you! Unfortunately I can't find the ArmorAll brand in the northeast US where I'm located. Looks like they might have stopped making it or been bought out by Solvable. Their graphic on the can is the exact same as the ArmorAll. Even the Solvable brand I'm seeing is not readily available in the US. Amazon doesn't appear to have any great options either. I'm going to give the brand from Green Products sold at Walmart (no I am not affiliated) a try with your spray on method and will report back results. Hopefully the above will help some of your US audience. I had one question about the process and I apologize if you mentioned and I missed it. When are you applying the treatment? Intuition and the video looks like you're applying the treatment to the ends immediately after milling to minimize rapid moisture loss and cracking. Are you letting the lumber air dry or kiln dry prior to applying the two coats? Or are you applying that immediately after milling and then drying? Thanks! -Steve
Hi Steve. Thanks for the great comment. I let my logs dry for about 6 months before I mill them. That takes care of a lot of moisture. Once I mill the lumber, I seal the ends. Most of the time I let the lumber air dry for a few weeks before applying the treatment. Hope this helps
I am about to do a live Fundraiser for you guys. If you guys would like to come over and I will give you a wrench so you can share your story and give what ever information out you want.
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead Your welcome! I know your busy but I just found out that a couple who are friends of mine are deadly I'll. Could you guys share this link to the faith farmers and homesteading community?! I need my prayer brother and sister warriors!! Thank you! ua-cam.com/video/dOb71UTlAwE/v-deo.html
FYI, it recommends against spraying not because it can clog a sprayer but because it is toxic. Which is why it also recommends the product not be used near water sources, in garden planters, or near food products.
Thanks for the info. Appreciate it. I did speak to a sales rep who reassured me the reason for not using the spray applicator was due to overspray and loss of product so as to not give the coverage a brush would. He also reassured me that the original products were toxic when made with an arsenic/lead base but now the chemical used is copper which according to them is much safer. Have a great day
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead Be cautious of sales reps. Yes, this product contains copper (copper naphthenate to be precise). It is a commonly found in many sealants and is also toxic. It is in fact why it is added to the product. This toxicity is introduced to prevents fungus growth and deters pests and insects from consuming or otherwise damage the wood. It is designed to be used on exterior lumber (fences, decks, exterior doors & windows…) and not for inside dwellings. Something similar is written on the label. This information can also be found on the Recochem website, the manufacturer of these ArmorAll products. I just don’t want you, or anyone inhaling harmful chemicals unnecessarily. Best of luck.
When there is a skull and crossbones on the label, it should be avoided. It means it’s poisonous. Big deal if you don’t drink it however the body has many more pathways of absorbing toxins such as the skin, lungs and eyes. I stay away from that stuff since there are non poisonous products available
Is it possible to create a wooden house without pressure treating the wood firstly? Or is the wood going to rot and break easily if you dont pressure treat it?
Anything ground level should be treated. If the wood is about 12 inches above ground contact you shouldn’t have to treat it. I treated all my main support beams even though they were 3-4 feet off the ground. I didn’t treat the floor joists or wall studs
@@davidilott1319 sump oil bug spray sounds a lot like the stuff we used to make out of creolin and lard back when I was a kid. Smelt awful but it worked
It's ridiculous no doubt. It's copper naphthenate. Used piles of it back in the day I was building thousands of hive body boxes for honeybees. Typically submerging parts in it for 24 hours and then drying for a few days before assembly. $15 bucks a gallon. Then it got harder than usual to find until it showed up under big names and the price jumped to $50 bucks a gallon. Best I've found recently is at Lowes but not at all locations. Called Copper Green/Brown Preservative. About $25 bucks a gallon. Some locations they make you buy a 4 count case for $100. The brown color is awesome but it fades to the natural copper color of green. It also kills any insects that chew on it. Simple contact doesn't harm them, like the honeybees for instance. Copper sulfate crystals is another good way to go for ground protection.
It is. I treated the post ends about 3 times. The rest of the post just the once. You can treat them as many times as you like. Thanks for the comment. Good luck
Hi Steve and thanks for the comment. The quantity of lumber that a gallon will cover is relative to what cut of lumber you are treating. I know I can treat 100's of board feet from one gallon.I treat a lot of 4x4 and 6x6, as well as 2x6 and 2x8. I've never really calculated the exact board footage I can treat per gallon. I know it is a lot. Great idea for a video though. I think I will do that and see exactly what I can get for coverage.
Thanks for watching and great comment. I have used it on fence posts many times with great results. I apply 2-3 coats liberally allowing time for it to soak in well each time.
You mean preserved, pressure treated is treated under pressure that forces the preservative into the wood. You would be wise to square and cut to length before treating.
I made that distinction in the description. I didn’t cut and square the ends because they will all be cut to proper length for posts to build on. Once I have the right measurements then I will square cut the ends and treat them. Thanks for the input. Have a great day. 😊
Anything you are putting in the ground will need to be treated before you actually place it in the dirt. Anything that is not directly contacting the ground can be treated at a later date. Presumably after completing the project build. Hope this helps. Good luck and have a great day.
You can use it to treat the lumber. As far as the inspection, I can’t speak to that. Every municipality is different. I would call and check with the inspector and get input from them. Sorry I can’t help more. Hope it all works out for you
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead thank you for responding. I’ve found a local version of ArmorAll and it will be delivered on Monday. Thanks for a great channel
Great question and welcome to the channel. What I do for post is pretty simple. I first char the ends of the posts with a weed burner. About 3 inches above ground level. So if you post is 24 inches in the ground, burn the end up to 27-28 inches. Then I apply two coats of the treatment, let it dry and put in the ground. It’s a quick and easy way to secure the life of the post. I’ve had some posts in the ground now 7 years and they are still very good shape. Hope this helps. Enjoy the channel and thanks for watching
Hey guys. We met last summer somewhere in ns or nb I can’t remember. We were driving a lifted bus with crazy wooden siding and doors. Anyways question for you. Does this treatment give off a smell after its all soaked in. We are building a timber frame outdoor structure on our property in cape breton.
Great to hear from you. Hope all is well. We found that after it dried there was no detectable odor. We’ve used the same solution on the home we are building without any smell from the wood or treatment. Have a great day. Hope to see y’all soon. Stop by sometime.
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead thanks for the reply’s guys. Apparently they discontinued it. That tells me it most likely works amazing hahah. We had to go with another brand but it’s working out. Hopefully it off gasses a lot and doesn’t keep the smell long term. Hope you are well
I'm planning to build to build a house. I have the means to build a vacuum chamber and pressure treat my lumber. Is there any real benefit to doing that, or does spraying treatment really do a good enough job as is? Thanks in advance.
Great comment. I can only speak to what I have done and experienced over the years. I have built barns, buildings and my own home using the spray method to great results. Nothing has rotted as of yet. That being said, a pressure chamber does have its benefits by getting the chemical a little deeper into the wood grain. Honestly, I think the way I do it works good. The decision obviously has to come down to you. Money, time and materials. That being said, I’m building my own home right now with lumber that I have treated. Hope this helps. Have a great day. Cheers.
What is content of this product (ingredients that reduce rot, termites)? Is good to check MSDS also. Am looking into borax for wood fence (saw on BIM YT vid how to) as read borax reduce flammability and fungus. The spray idea your doing is handy . Have you tested how long this treatment lasts?
Thanks for the great comment. The active ingredient is copper as far as I can tell. Borax is a good one as well. I also use the ancient practice of charring the ends before putting them in the ground. It works well. I have posts that have been in the ground for over 5 years that show no sign of rot or weakness. So far it has worked well. Like anything that goes in the ground, it is always good to retreat what you can after a few years. I haven’t done that, but really haven’t had to so far. Hope this helps.
Thanks. It not sure I follow your comment. Don’t know what being in Canada has to do with treating lumber or what Tyvek has to do with it either. Perhaps I’m not understanding your comment. But have a good day. Thanks again.
Pressure treated lumber is still best because its fireproof and will last longer, usually over the counter wood treatments will last a max of only 5-8 years
Thanks for the input. I agree the actual process under pressure is a much stronger treatment. But to save a little money and offer some home solutions is what I try to do. Have a great day
Normal pressure treated lumber is NOT fire retardant. There is a process where a different treatment can make it fire retardant but you won't find it in stock at the local lumber yard.
Great video...what kind of wood are your 6x6s made from...i just cut a 100' tall souther yellow pine and have 55' of 24" round no limb logs..is that good for 6x6 rough cut for a outside pole barn?...any help would be great!
Mostly spruce. That pine you cut sounds great. If it was knotty pine I wouldn’t use it for beams but whereas it is straight no limbs I think you should be fine.
I haven’t used them for that purpose but I have used them as drive way markers and after 3 years on the ground they are still solid. I did double coat them. Hope this helps. Cheers 🥂
@@Justnotrightvideo i let mine dry for a couple of months. I’ve not tried it on green lumber. I would be concerned that it may seal moisture into the wood where it is green. It’s best to mill it and let it dry for a couple of months unless you have a drying kiln. If I was in a pinch and needed my green lumber treated, then yes I would put it on it. Sorry I can’t help more. Good luck
Thank you! I’m in southwestern Tennessee wanting to use the mature Loblolly pine on my property for my 16x20 cabin. One of my biggest concerns is the powder post beetles, which I seem to have a handle on by spraying the logs with bleach and spot spraying with bug spray. After a few times, I’m not seeing them. I have some bigger trees I want to mill into 6x6s for the floor framing. There my concern is termites and moisture. I will have cement piers at least two feet off the ground. I’m thinking of cutting and peeling the logs and dealing with the bugs first while they dry for a few months. Then milling and treating before the build. Any info would be appreciated! I’m a builder by trade (retired) but have not dealt with raw lumber. These trees have reached there maturity and need to be harvested.
Would this work on box store untreated lumber. Taking a deck apart because it rotted due to all the heat, humidity, & rain (TX). Im so tired of replacing after a few years. Thos box store waterproofing stain seem not to work....lol
Ok, so the audio. Please either make both mics come out both channels or match the mic to the side of the camera. My post stroke brain cant pay attention to the info because it is trying to process the confusing audio. Vid looks informative but at least with my disability it makes it hard to focus. Ill watch this again in the morning without headphones when my wife isnt sleeping.
Thank you for the info. Is that freshly cut lumber or did you dry it first and how did you dry it. I’m using a Norwood HD36 here in Northwest Arkansas.
Hey Tom. Glad to have you at Creekside. The lumber has been drying probably 6 months. The logs were cut about 4 months when I milled them out. The lumber was milled probably for 2 months or more before I treated it. To dry it I milled it and put it in stacks with stickers between each layer. It dried well
So that is some kind that doesn't need a thicker coating? I don't understand how it works if all it need is that mist/spray. Don't get me wrong, if it works it's super 👍🏼💪🏼! The fact that I don't understand doesn't make it less usuable.
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead Good to know. The old colonial homes that still stand today didn’t have big pressure treating machines and they’re still standing and most log homes today.
Yeah, that's like what u put on ur fence. They don't actually pressure treat the lumber per say as much as they're impregnating the grain through n through via a vacuum chamber and they're probably NOT flooding the chamber as much as they're probably just fogging or misting in their chemicals... for a DIY'er it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to get a 5-8 cfm vacuum pump and build a small fiberglass chamber with plywood or whatever and do the same. Probably just take a little longer then u can probably get much better penetration.... js
I would like to know what the active ingredient is in the amor all product. Copper has replaced arsenic in commercial prressure treated lumber. If you’re going to the trouble to present this, you really should give information on the preservative.
Good to know, I’m a lad who has been storing nice pine lumber pieces from my job to add to my shed. Labor intensive to cut away nails and screws disassembling everything. Soo I thought the boards were useless bcz they’re pine. I feel so much better now. Thanks for this video
Unfortunately, your Armor All wood treatment product is not available here in the USA. So instead I used three treatments for untreated pine wood: 1. from a link on My favorite wood sealer: ua-cam.com/video/2e9lfhmBgYU/v-deo.html 2. After two coats it was still too light so I put two coats of Olympic Elite Stain/Sealer 3. Finally I used Australian Oil to give the gold finish. We are very pleased with the results as it perfectly matched the cedar columns! Thanks!
I’ve not really ever cut a piece of wood open to see. I usually treat the piece with two coats and use it. I know I’ve had 4x4’s in the ground for 5 years that are just as good as the day I put them in. I’m actually in the process of getting a long tub of some sort to soak the lumber in the treatment to see if it soaks in any deeper.
Thanks. For our lumber, the sprayer worked great. We don’t sell it with the treatment. It would get way to expensive. It’s for personal use. We simply wanted to show folks that there are options. May not be perfect, but worked for us. Have a great day
I meant how much does it cost in material to cover lumber with the treatment. Reason I'm asking is i have a sawmill and need a way to treat some of my projects. Looking for all the options I can find
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead great. Thank you. I need to replace a rotted pergola rafter and all I can find in the rough sawn size is white pine. I was hoping to treat it, but it needs paint to match the others.. thank you
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When spraying paint and or preservative always back brush while the coating is still wet. Back brushing forces more of the liquid into the cells of the wood. But all things considered , well done!
Thanks for the great comment. I appreciate the tip for sure. Have a great day.
You're right. I had no intent to insult your intelligence. The problem lies with me. I frequently react negatively when I thing people misuse their words. I'm 72 years old and have worked as a carpenter most of my life so I've planted a post or two. I have used my rose bud diesel and used motor oil with great success. Thanks for the come back. Be well
Brush on is always the best practice, the brush forced the finish into the wood pores, or grain. As you said to speed things up, roll on, than brush it. Linked oil with mineral spirit also works, adding mildewcide accordingly.
I just had a rough sawn lumber shed delivered. I wanted to treat the lumber some how to ensure it resists bugs, water, mold etc. I am so happy i found this video. You made it look so simple. thanks a great bunch for this video!
Thanks Lisa. It is always great to get good feedback. We try to produce content that helps and entertains at the same time. We have a full playlist of milling videos. So great to have you as part of our milling family. If we can help in anyway just ask. Take care and have a great day
IT DOESNT WORK! this is wrong!
@@leewatkins1610 oh yes it does. I’ve done over 30,000 board feet this way and its all still solid.
@@leewatkins1610 Don’t make a statement like that without facts to back you up. Otherwise you’re just being ignorant for no reason and you help no one
@@leewatkins1610 enlighten us
That's 'Treated' Lumber, not 'Pressure Treated' Lumber 😂
You got it. 👍 Same chemical different application. No pressure
I have a product that I treated my shed with 50 years ago and the shed is still being used .. it’s called old used car sump oil .. and it’s really cheap
That’s awesome. I think a lot of people used stuff like that. It does work. And so much cheaper
Ya diesel works too takes awhile to get smell to go away
@@user-oc7uq8ue7t What the hell!?!? I love pages like this, I had no idea diesel was used as a wood preservative as well. Learn something new everyday
Glad you mentioned you are I. Canada. I m going to Home Depot to get this stuff. I m building an outdoor table and I was not sure what I should do about the wood if I should pressure treated wood or treat it myself.
Howdy y’all- this is great information. I’ve never heard of this product before but I will sure see if I can find it. Thank you so much for sharing this. Have a great weekend and I’ll see y’all Sunday morning. God’s blessings to y’all
Thanks Paul. Glad you enjoyed the video. Sure appreciate you watching it. See you on Sunday my friend
This was something new to me. You can never learn enough. Have a good weekend.
Thanks Marshall. Have a great weekend as well. 👍
I use a mixture of used oil that has sit for about a year to let any solids drop out, and diesel fuel for a 50/50 mix, I do two coats with an diy air sprayer, turns grey after it dries. Old timers say it will last just as long as anything on the market.
That’s a great idea. Thanks. I will give it a try. Have a great day.
Will lumber coated with diesel/waste oil hold paint?
@@bluethunder1951 thank you!!
Thanks for the tip i am building a new patio for the cabin this spring coming going to do this with my lumber . take care
Good luck! Awesome and glad we can help friends
Smart move Tony if they going to take the land from you and Joanie then take their trees and turn it into lumber great video
Thanks Willie. These trees and lumber came from another lot of land. Not here. But I’m still going to keep milling as long as we can.
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead you welcome Tony
I recommend not using this preserved wood in direct ground-contact uses. Good idea to protect the wood for many situations though.
Try burning the wood first with a propane torch, "Then" do this. Combine that with using larch, cedar, etc.. that would last a long long time. 🤌
@@justinmichaelfilmswouldn't burning it kinda seal it thus preventing the treatment from soaking into the lumber?
Thanks Tony for the demonstration and explanation. That will save money over time because of the price lumber. Y"all have a great weekend and God bless.
Thanks folks. Appreciate you watching. It saves us a lot when we treat our own lumber. Especially with the price now. Have a great weekend
Great video, watching it on lunch break at work!
Thanks friends. Appreciate you guys. ❤️
We appreciate your continued support!!!
Cheap and easy! Gotta live it! Great video y’all.
Thanks Jesse and Lisa. Appreciate you guys. ❤️
I know nothing about timber, but your info was so simple and easy to understand. Well done!
Thank you so much. ❤️❤️
last treated lumber and post i got rotted from the inside out. i am not buying any more. yours will be way better i think your's help seal to. i hope every thing will work out for you. i would have never done any body the way he did you but people double dealed me before to. you need to get every thing done legal and in writing any more. i hope saint peter will deal with all these's evil people. take care, be safe and well.
Thanks John. We appreciate your support so much. In the future we most definitely won’t be taken advantage of like this again. The Lord will deal with them. In the meantime, we remain steadfast in our faith and resolve to build again.
It looks good thanks
omG, thank you very much, we just get some wood donated for our church entrance, Now I am going to home preasurre treated like that, I'll apreciated, very much.
Awesome. That’s great. Glad to help
Great job, guys! Can't wait to see you put it to use at your future forever-home!
Thanks guys. ❤️
Hello Guy's. I've never used the Armor All brand, but it really does make a difference when you use a preservative.
It sure does. It’s the life of the lumber for sure. Thanks for watching my friend
Great video we have the same saw mill I like your hat to 🤙🏻
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it and welcome to the channel. 😊
Welcome to our CREEKSIDE Crew!!!! ✨
Is this pressure treating, or just treating? I would think that pressure treating means that it is under pressure not just sprayed on. Right?
It’s the exact same product they use in commercial pressure treatment. The difference is the big commercial mills have a pressure tank that the wood goes into. We have found if we put two coats on it penetrates really well and has excellent weather resistance
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead the level of penetration you guys get would be much less than a pressure treated process. Check this video out and it explains how it works; ua-cam.com/video/gTGGJjJd91A/v-deo.html
Armor all’s treatment works but the difference is pressure treated wood has all he moisture removed before the treatment ‘Alkaline Copper Quaternary’ and it’s fully preserved. This isn’t a bad method and it does work but for longevity I’ll spend the money on the treated wood for a bigger project any day of the week. A shed I’ll do this because it’s a shed and not part of a deck or living structure that I’d have to worry about a disaster years later. I’m not putting this guy down but I’d never do this on something big or for a customer. I know lots misinformed about this vs the real deal.
Look forward to seeing it used for your new home.
We are to. Can’t wait to get started.
Have a great weekend on the Creekside Maples 🍁
Thanks Sam. You as well
Well it looks like you "treated" your lumber for sure, but I don't see where you "pressure treated" it? The pressure part would be very difficult to do, so I doubt this would be the same.
I guess the title was meant to reflect the product you can end up with more so than the process. Sorry if it was misleading. That was never the intent. We do appreciate the feedback and comments. Have a great week. 👍
I have a question. We have an old deck that is clearly not pressure treated. I just had two posts replaced. The deck was painted we scrapped off as much paint as we could now plan to repaint. Can we pressure treat over the painted areas with this method? Thank u for your video and God Bless you with your new home!
Thanks for the great comment. It is good to get as much of the old paint off as you can. A method I find highly effective to remove old paint is to pressed wash it. Once that is done then I would apply at least two good applications of the treatment. Make sure you do both sides of the boards. Decks usually rot from the bottom out. Good luck and if I can help at all let me know. Take care and God bless.
Something new to me.. Beautiful wood. 😉
Thanks Barb. It’s beautiful wood for sure. We are using it on our new home build. Trying to get as much lumber milled as we can before we start building
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead
Did y'all find a new property yet?
@@BARBSCOUNTRYHOME999 We are hoping. We did put an offer in that was accepted. Now we have to raise the funds. It will all work out.
If you spray this on already treated wood, would it make the wood last longer or don't bother
Thanks for watching friend. I’m of the mindset that when it comes to treating wood, more is always better. It certainly wouldn’t hurt it. Especially on the end going in the ground.
This video is still helping people 2 years later so thank you! Unfortunately I can't find the ArmorAll brand in the northeast US where I'm located. Looks like they might have stopped making it or been bought out by Solvable. Their graphic on the can is the exact same as the ArmorAll. Even the Solvable brand I'm seeing is not readily available in the US. Amazon doesn't appear to have any great options either. I'm going to give the brand from Green Products sold at Walmart (no I am not affiliated) a try with your spray on method and will report back results.
Hopefully the above will help some of your US audience. I had one question about the process and I apologize if you mentioned and I missed it. When are you applying the treatment? Intuition and the video looks like you're applying the treatment to the ends immediately after milling to minimize rapid moisture loss and cracking. Are you letting the lumber air dry or kiln dry prior to applying the two coats? Or are you applying that immediately after milling and then drying? Thanks! -Steve
Hi Steve. Thanks for the great comment. I let my logs dry for about 6 months before I mill them. That takes care of a lot of moisture. Once I mill the lumber, I seal the ends. Most of the time I let the lumber air dry for a few weeks before applying the treatment. Hope this helps
I didnt know that existed, very awesome ,
It works amazingly well. We use it a lot.
Learned from this! Nice video!
Thank you so much. Welcome to Creekside. So glad you are here. 😊
I am about to do a live Fundraiser for you guys. If you guys would like to come over and I will give you a wrench so you can share your story and give what ever information out you want.
Thanks Bold Lion. Sorry we missed this. We went to bed after our Live Show. We were exhausted. Appreciate you doing this ❤️
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead Your welcome! I know your busy but I just found out that a couple who are friends of mine are deadly I'll. Could you guys share this link to the faith farmers and homesteading community?! I need my prayer brother and sister warriors!! Thank you! ua-cam.com/video/dOb71UTlAwE/v-deo.html
hello joni and toni great even you have a pet like crubby
We have 4 dogs. Lol.
Thanks Crubby.
Thanks for watching Crubby 🐶 Have a blessed day!!!
Do you have another brand suggestion? It doesn’t look like the Armor all one is sold in the US.
Sorry Heather. I will see what I can find for you.
Yall the title of the video is "pressure treat without pressure" he knows there is no pressure😂
@@mirandawilliams9578 exactly.
FYI, it recommends against spraying not because it can clog a sprayer but because it is toxic. Which is why it also recommends the product not be used near water sources, in garden planters, or near food products.
Thanks for the info. Appreciate it. I did speak to a sales rep who reassured me the reason for not using the spray applicator was due to overspray and loss of product so as to not give the coverage a brush would. He also reassured me that the original products were toxic when made with an arsenic/lead base but now the chemical used is copper which according to them is much safer. Have a great day
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead Be cautious of sales reps. Yes, this product contains copper (copper naphthenate to be precise). It is a commonly found in many sealants and is also toxic. It is in fact why it is added to the product. This toxicity is introduced to prevents fungus growth and deters pests and insects from consuming or otherwise damage the wood. It is designed to be used on exterior lumber (fences, decks, exterior doors & windows…) and not for inside dwellings. Something similar is written on the label. This information can also be found on the Recochem website, the manufacturer of these ArmorAll products. I just don’t want you, or anyone inhaling harmful chemicals unnecessarily. Best of luck.
@@stephanecorriveau6982 We use it only for outside projects. Thanks again
When there is a skull and crossbones on the label, it should be avoided. It means it’s poisonous. Big deal if you don’t drink it however the body has many more pathways of absorbing toxins such as the skin, lungs and eyes.
I stay away from that stuff since there are non poisonous products available
Or near dogs !
good video guys definitely helps to make the lumber last for sure take care have a great weekend
Thanks Tom. Have a great weekend my friend
Is it possible to create a wooden house without pressure treating the wood firstly? Or is the wood going to rot and break easily if you dont pressure treat it?
Anything ground level should be treated. If the wood is about 12 inches above ground contact you shouldn’t have to treat it. I treated all my main support beams even though they were 3-4 feet off the ground. I didn’t treat the floor joists or wall studs
It looks good thanks
Thanks Terry. It looks real good. We like the color.
There's other more cost efficient treatments than this on other U-Tube channels ! 😮
Awesome!
Sump oil bug spray and a little bit of diesel , works for me
@@davidilott1319 sump oil bug spray sounds a lot like the stuff we used to make out of creolin and lard back when I was a kid. Smelt awful but it worked
Great info. 👍
You my friend just saved me about $3000. Only one question though, can the wood then be painted white after being treated? Thanks again !
Awesome! And yes you can paint it white. It will look great. Cheers
It's ridiculous no doubt. It's copper naphthenate. Used piles of it back in the day I was building thousands of hive body boxes for honeybees. Typically submerging parts in it for 24 hours and then drying for a few days before assembly. $15 bucks a gallon. Then it got harder than usual to find until it showed up under big names and the price jumped to $50 bucks a gallon. Best I've found recently is at Lowes but not at all locations. Called Copper Green/Brown Preservative. About $25 bucks a gallon. Some locations they make you buy a 4 count case for $100. The brown color is awesome but it fades to the natural copper color of green.
It also kills any insects that chew on it. Simple contact doesn't harm them, like the honeybees for instance.
Copper sulfate crystals is another good way to go for ground protection.
Thanks so much. Appreciate the input. Have a great day
How long have your post last without treatment on them? Have you done any comparisons?
If I don’t treat them they start to get soft in a year or two but with the treatment they have lasted 6 years so far.
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead thanks for replying
Is your wood protected enough to be used as inground posts? Thank you for this video.
It is. I treated the post ends about 3 times. The rest of the post just the once. You can treat them as many times as you like. Thanks for the comment. Good luck
No. The product description states it is for Above Ground use only. There are several other products that you can use.
Great video sir! Will this work on Plywood for shed subfloor??
I’m sure it would.
Great info. Thanks
Thanks
How much will one gallon cover roughly?
Hi Steve and thanks for the comment. The quantity of lumber that a gallon will cover is relative to what cut of lumber you are treating. I know I can treat 100's of board feet from one gallon.I treat a lot of 4x4 and 6x6, as well as 2x6 and 2x8. I've never really calculated the exact board footage I can treat per gallon. I know it is a lot. Great idea for a video though. I think I will do that and see exactly what I can get for coverage.
Hi, very informative. Thank you. Do you know where I can find it in the USA, if not what would be the equivalent product?
You should be able to find it at Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Menards, etc.
Hi were you able to find it? In the US
Might I suggest a paint roller and tray? Would be 2 times faster and more even
@@ricktbdgc great idea. I will try it for sure
Awesome 👏
Thanks
Hello. I have read that this product has a terrible odor. Can you explain how you dealt with that?
To be quite honest, we never really noticed any strong odor at all. We were outside and not in an enclosed area.
Would u recommend using on fence post?
Thanks for watching and great comment. I have used it on fence posts many times with great results. I apply 2-3 coats liberally allowing time for it to soak in well each time.
You mean preserved, pressure treated is treated under pressure that forces the preservative into the wood. You would be wise to square and cut to length before treating.
I made that distinction in the description. I didn’t cut and square the ends because they will all be cut to proper length for posts to build on. Once I have the right measurements then I will square cut the ends and treat them. Thanks for the input. Have a great day. 😊
Do you think it would be okay to install a picket fence with untreated lumber, provided that I stained/sealed it soon after installation?
Anything you are putting in the ground will need to be treated before you actually place it in the dirt. Anything that is not directly contacting the ground can be treated at a later date. Presumably after completing the project build. Hope this helps. Good luck and have a great day.
I have a framed basement. The GC did not used pressurized lumber. Can I use this to cover the regular lumber and will it pass a village inspection?
You can use it to treat the lumber. As far as the inspection, I can’t speak to that. Every municipality is different. I would call and check with the inspector and get input from them. Sorry I can’t help more. Hope it all works out for you
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead thank you for responding. I’ve found a local version of ArmorAll and it will be delivered on Monday. Thanks for a great channel
Interesting for sure
Thanks
I know im late tov the game but how would this hold up if i ued them post for fence post
Great question and welcome to the channel. What I do for post is pretty simple. I first char the ends of the posts with a weed burner. About 3 inches above ground level. So if you post is 24 inches in the ground, burn the end up to 27-28 inches. Then I apply two coats of the treatment, let it dry and put in the ground. It’s a quick and easy way to secure the life of the post. I’ve had some posts in the ground now 7 years and they are still very good shape. Hope this helps. Enjoy the channel and thanks for watching
I think this works the same but just but on in another way
Thank you. That may very well be. Have a great day
Hey guys. We met last summer somewhere in ns or nb I can’t remember. We were driving a lifted bus with crazy wooden siding and doors. Anyways question for you. Does this treatment give off a smell after its all soaked in. We are building a timber frame outdoor structure on our property in cape breton.
Great to hear from you. Hope all is well. We found that after it dried there was no detectable odor. We’ve used the same solution on the home we are building without any smell from the wood or treatment. Have a great day. Hope to see y’all soon. Stop by sometime.
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead I am having troubles finding it which store did you buy it at
@@andrewhewlett7672 Home Hardware
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead thanks for the reply’s guys. Apparently they discontinued it. That tells me it most likely works amazing hahah. We had to go with another brand but it’s working out. Hopefully it off gasses a lot and doesn’t keep the smell long term. Hope you are well
I'm planning to build to build a house. I have the means to build a vacuum chamber and pressure treat my lumber. Is there any real benefit to doing that, or does spraying treatment really do a good enough job as is? Thanks in advance.
Great comment. I can only speak to what I have done and experienced over the years. I have built barns, buildings and my own home using the spray method to great results. Nothing has rotted as of yet. That being said, a pressure chamber does have its benefits by getting the chemical a little deeper into the wood grain. Honestly, I think the way I do it works good. The decision obviously has to come down to you. Money, time and materials. That being said, I’m building my own home right now with lumber that I have treated. Hope this helps. Have a great day. Cheers.
What is content of this product (ingredients that reduce rot, termites)? Is good to check MSDS also. Am looking into borax for wood fence (saw on BIM YT vid how to) as read borax reduce flammability and fungus. The spray idea your doing is handy . Have you tested how long this treatment lasts?
Thanks for the great comment. The active ingredient is copper as far as I can tell. Borax is a good one as well. I also use the ancient practice of charring the ends before putting them in the ground. It works well. I have posts that have been in the ground for over 5 years that show no sign of rot or weakness. So far it has worked well. Like anything that goes in the ground, it is always good to retreat what you can after a few years. I haven’t done that, but really haven’t had to so far. Hope this helps.
Great, thanks for the video. how many layers of chemical do have to apply per a 6x6 lumber?
I doubled sprayed mine. I found that works best. Good luck. Thanks for the comment
I was really digging it till u said Canada. That’s what tyvek is for
Thanks. It not sure I follow your comment. Don’t know what being in Canada has to do with treating lumber or what Tyvek has to do with it either. Perhaps I’m not understanding your comment. But have a good day. Thanks again.
Pressure treated lumber is still best because its fireproof and will last longer, usually over the counter wood treatments will last a max of only 5-8 years
Thanks for the input. I agree the actual process under pressure is a much stronger treatment. But to save a little money and offer some home solutions is what I try to do. Have a great day
Normal pressure treated lumber is NOT fire retardant. There is a process where a different treatment can make it fire retardant but you won't find it in stock at the local lumber yard.
Great video...what kind of wood are your 6x6s made from...i just cut a 100' tall souther yellow pine and have 55' of 24" round no limb logs..is that good for 6x6 rough cut for a outside pole barn?...any help would be great!
Mostly spruce. That pine you cut sounds great. If it was knotty pine I wouldn’t use it for beams but whereas it is straight no limbs I think you should be fine.
You will want to treat that pine with some Thompson Water seal or Armour All Copper wood preservative
What type of nails, screws, and fasenters are recommended to use with this product?
I always use the galvanized or hot dipped.
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead Thank you so much for taking the time to answer. I really appreciate it.
Nice! Can those use for garden beds?
I haven’t used them for that purpose but I have used them as drive way markers and after 3 years on the ground they are still solid. I did double coat them. Hope this helps. Cheers 🥂
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead thank you for your reply.
Not available at Menards or Home Depot.... You buy that from your local hardware store? Was it more than $100 a gallon?
I bought it at Home Hardware. It was 45.00 plus tax
Does the fresh sawn lumber need to dry first or not before treated?
I let mine dry for a couple months before I treated it
Good shit buddy. 👍
Thanks, appreciate it and have an awesome week
can you paint the wood once it is dry?
Yes you can.
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead Thanks for the info
Will this work on fresh cut green pine Timbers?
@@Justnotrightvideo i let mine dry for a couple of months. I’ve not tried it on green lumber. I would be concerned that it may seal moisture into the wood where it is green. It’s best to mill it and let it dry for a couple of months unless you have a drying kiln. If I was in a pinch and needed my green lumber treated, then yes I would put it on it. Sorry I can’t help more. Good luck
Thank you! I’m in southwestern Tennessee wanting to use the mature Loblolly pine on my property for my 16x20 cabin. One of my biggest concerns is the powder post beetles, which I seem to have a handle on by spraying the logs with bleach and spot spraying with bug spray. After a few times, I’m not seeing them. I have some bigger trees I want to mill into 6x6s for the floor framing. There my concern is termites and moisture. I will have cement piers at least two feet off the ground. I’m thinking of cutting and peeling the logs and dealing with the bugs first while they dry for a few months. Then milling and treating before the build. Any info would be appreciated! I’m a builder by trade (retired) but have not dealt with raw lumber. These trees have reached there maturity and need to be harvested.
Would this work on box store untreated lumber. Taking a deck apart because it rotted due to all the heat, humidity, & rain (TX). Im so tired of replacing after a few years. Thos box store waterproofing stain seem not to work....lol
@@schretien8714 it does work well. I have used it on many projects including my house foundation and it seems to be working fine.
@@CreeksideMaplesHomesteadThank you!!
Glad u showed this video
Thanks David. 👍
Would this make the floor slick if you had a plywood floor?
@@Mr.MiniStroke No. not at all
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead awesome thank you!
Ok, so the audio. Please either make both mics come out both channels or match the mic to the side of the camera. My post stroke brain cant pay attention to the info because it is trying to process the confusing audio. Vid looks informative but at least with my disability it makes it hard to focus. Ill watch this again in the morning without headphones when my wife isnt sleeping.
Thanks for the input. I hope the audio worked out for you. Cheers 🥂
Thinking about buying a portable sawmill. Got do some research, not to break the bank.
Research and budget are important for sure. I wouldn’t buy the cheapest or smallest.
Thank you for the info. Is that freshly cut lumber or did you dry it first and how did you dry it. I’m using a Norwood HD36 here in Northwest Arkansas.
Hey Tom. Glad to have you at Creekside. The lumber has been drying probably 6 months. The logs were cut about 4 months when I milled them out. The lumber was milled probably for 2 months or more before I treated it. To dry it I milled it and put it in stacks with stickers between each layer. It dried well
So that is some kind that doesn't need a thicker coating? I don't understand how it works if all it need is that mist/spray.
Don't get me wrong, if it works it's super 👍🏼💪🏼! The fact that I don't understand doesn't make it less usuable.
Not a coating like paint more like a poison that soaks into wood preventing bugs,mold,etc
Does this treatment last as long or longer than normal pressure treated? I didn’t know this was available
@@coryobryant6982 it last a long time. I double coat and haven’t had to redo any as of yet.
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead Good to know. The old colonial homes that still stand today didn’t have big pressure treating machines and they’re still standing and most log homes today.
Yeah, that's like what u put on ur fence. They don't actually pressure treat the lumber per say as much as they're impregnating the grain through n through via a vacuum chamber and they're probably NOT flooding the chamber as much as they're probably just fogging or misting in their chemicals... for a DIY'er it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to get a 5-8 cfm vacuum pump and build a small fiberglass chamber with plywood or whatever and do the same. Probably just take a little longer then u can probably get much better penetration.... js
Pulling a vacuum on anything will become saturated with whatever chemicals or gases u r putting.
Thanks. That’s a great idea. I have a good vacuum pump. Appreciate the info.
Why can’t I find it anywhere in the US? Maybe I’m not looking hard enough but I can’t find it, does anyone know why?
Sorry you can’t find it. I will try and locate it for you and get back to you. Thanks
Ok, thank you
Does it still help with ground contact?
Yes. I treat them twice and then put them in the ground.
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead Amazing to hear! Thanks for answering. 😀
I would like to know what the active ingredient is in the amor all product. Copper has replaced arsenic in commercial prressure treated lumber.
If you’re going to the trouble to present this, you really should give information on the preservative.
I gave the name of the product. However, the active ingredient is copper. It says it on the can. Appreciate the feed back. Thanks
We are taking down an old barn. Can I use that on older wood or does it need to be sanded down or something first?
Put it right on the wood. I would remove any rot and or weak areas first. I would also double coat. Dry older wood is like a sponge.
Will this be safe to use for deck posts?
I’ve used it over my entire deck with great results and no problems
How's that work with pallets for a pallet fence
@@CarolinaBalloon it works very well. Have a great day
What liquid do you mix with the chemical?
@@kwajoampong3092 I don’t mix anything with it. It comes ready to apply. Have a great day.
Do you have a link for the armor all treatment you are using? I can't seem to find it. Thanks
I will find it and put a link in the description of the video. Hope that will help.
Great Video! Does it matter if the lumber (pine) comes from a mill or Home Depot? Does it have to be wet from a mill? Thank you!
Really doesn’t matter where the lumber comes from. Thanks for watching
Good to know, I’m a lad who has been storing nice pine lumber pieces from my job to add to my shed. Labor intensive to cut away nails and screws disassembling everything. Soo I thought the boards were useless bcz they’re pine. I feel so much better now. Thanks for this video
Unfortunately, your Armor All wood treatment product is not available here in the USA. So instead I used three treatments for untreated pine wood: 1. from a link on My favorite wood sealer: ua-cam.com/video/2e9lfhmBgYU/v-deo.html 2. After two coats it was still too light so I put two coats of Olympic Elite Stain/Sealer 3. Finally I used Australian Oil to give the gold finish. We are very pleased with the results as it perfectly matched the cedar columns! Thanks!
Nice
@@JamesDunn-bh1zk thanks.
Can you stain over it when it dries?
Yes you can but I would try a small area first
What if you use oil?
I suppose it depends on what sort of oil you would use ? Some folks years ago used a mixture of diesel fuel and old motor oil.
I cut a schrader valve into my sprayer. One quick shot with the compressor and you save 20 pumps
Now thats a great idea. 👍👍
How dry is the lumber you sprayed?
It had been cut for approximately 6 months as logs and then another 4 drying as lumber.
What species of trees did you mill?
Pine, spruce and fir.
How far in does this product go?
I’ve not really ever cut a piece of wood open to see. I usually treat the piece with two coats and use it. I know I’ve had 4x4’s in the ground for 5 years that are just as good as the day I put them in. I’m actually in the process of getting a long tub of some sort to soak the lumber in the treatment to see if it soaks in any deeper.
That's treating, but not pressure treating.
Thank you. Have a great day
No spraying is probably for you, not proper application lol.
Thank you for the video!!! How much does is cost per sq ft
Thanks. For our lumber, the sprayer worked great. We don’t sell it with the treatment. It would get way to expensive. It’s for personal use. We simply wanted to show folks that there are options. May not be perfect, but worked for us. Have a great day
I meant how much does it cost in material to cover lumber with the treatment.
Reason I'm asking is i have a sawmill and need a way to treat some of my projects. Looking for all the options I can find
Can you paint over that treatment?
Yes you can. I have.
@@CreeksideMaplesHomestead great. Thank you. I need to replace a rotted pergola rafter and all I can find in the rough sawn size is white pine. I was hoping to treat it, but it needs paint to match the others.. thank you
If it’s gonna be outside then motor oil and diesel best friend
Yup, for sure. All the old timers used motor oil and diesel. It does work.