Best Carbide Inserts for a MINI Lathe
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- Опубліковано 25 чер 2024
- In this video I will being doing a direct comparison between CCMT inserts against CCGT inserts to see which one is best for use on the mini lathe. I will be testing them on mild steel and aluminium at depths of cut of 0.25mm and 0.5mm.
This is a video well worth watching if you are getting bad results from your inserts or just curious to see which one comes out the best.
Also in this video I will be carrying on the free give away from the last video so for information on that check out the previous video. Link below.
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Link to eBay where I bought the CCGT inserts
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284272496343
Seen it and emailed. 😉 Where are you buying your inserts from Joe?
Well done Dan you are in the first 5 people to find it so I’ll get your address and get you a sticker sent out. There is a link in description to an eBay shop where I got these from really good inserts so far. Well done again
Odd when you come across a video and find out left a comment 2 years ago
Following the link, those CCGT were AK inserts which is the Korloy designation for their inserts for aluminium. They have 20 degrees of rake and are very sharp, really cut down on the power required to make a cut. They won't last long using them on steel, but lets face it they are pretty cheap and are much easier on the lathe. The CCMT inserts are probably moulded rather than ground, makes for really robust edges on the insert, but will draw more power when taking a cut. I use an insert by Sumitomo which is also a ground insert, less rake than the AK about 15 degrees I think. I use that for anything I cut in my small cnc. Still cuts down on power required compared with a moulded insert, I use it as my general purpose insert. I do not use moulded inserts in my cnc as it only has 1/2hp at the spindle. Good video Joe
Hi thanks for such a detailed insight into them the rake angle makes sense why they seem to achieve a great finish with so little lathe power. Thanks again for the comment hope your enjoying the channel.
cheers from the US, Paul
It might pay to go back to your ISO chart and check yourself. The third letter (G or M in this case) relates to manufacturing tolerance and has no relation to nose radius. The nose radius is defined by the 5th and 6th number after the four letter code. for example a CCMT 060204 would be 80 degree 1/2 diamond shape, 7 degree clearance or relief angle, .05-.13mm tolerance on dimensions, 40-60 degree double countersink fastening with single sided chip breaker, 6mm cutting edge length, 2.38mm thickness and .4mm nose radius. Changing from a CCMT to a CCGT only alters the manufacturing tolerance from .05-.13mm to the tighter spec of .025mm tolerance. Common nose radius designations will be 02, 04, 08, 12 and 16, although the latter two are best suited to larger lathes. There will also be some manufacturer specific letters after the ISO designation that describe their particular chip breaker geometry and other manufacturer specific characteristics. Both CCMT and CCGT inserts are available with the .2mm nose radius, but all things being equal, the CCGT's will be more expensive given their tighter manufacturing tolerances.
What is the parentage of your CCMT inserts as I couldn't see any label on their box? No use comparing cheap Chinese knock offs against a quality insert such as Korloy, Iscar, Kennametal or Sandvik.
Thank you for clearing things up for me. I appreciate the time and detail you have put into your comment sounds like you really know your stuff. I will look into the make next time I’m in the shop and let you know. All the best.
@@MachiningwithJoe No worries mate, it can be quite confusing initially, but once it clicks in your head it gets a lot easier.
Thanks for the interesting video, brother. As Karlrobbers said the 3rd letter denotes the tolerance. But why are CCGT's consistently different in their characteristics than CCMT's if only the manufacturing tolerance is different? Well, carbide inserts are molded and then sintered (baked) at high temp. The "M" tolerance is normally associated with inserts that come straight out of the oven and have little or no post-processing of the cutting edge. The edges tend to be slightly dull, or rounded, which makes for good durability. Since the inserts shrink during sintering it's hard to get very tight tolerances with this process. The "G" inserts are ground with diamond wheels after sintering. Ground edges are very sharp. Grinding can also be done to very precise tolerances. These inserts will not last as long but they will be superior for light finishing passes and gummy materials such as aluminum and stainless. While I don't know for sure what the M and G stand for I would venture to guess that M is for molded and G is for ground.
Hi Cody,
thank you for your detailed explanation. The joys of the internet info can be interpreted differently so is always good to hear from someone with first hand knowledge. So thank you again for explaining to me and any other viewer that maybe interested in this topic. 👍
You should try some tnmg inserts. They give amazing finish for aluminium and decent for steel
I’ll check them out thank you 👍
If you buy uncoated but highly polished inserts, they are specifically designed for aluminum. They don't work so well on steel for some reason but works great on aluminum. Another thing is, you need to dial up your feed rate because your chips are coming out stringy.
Oh by the way in the beginning of your video your fly is open...
Joe give us a clue, the tension is killing me !
A clue to what Del ?
@@MachiningwithJoe Where the sticker is ! thinking about running a similar scheme myself, if you cant find the tidy area in my shop, I send you my wife !
Haha good idea just got to get her to ok it that might be the hard part.
If it helps it definitely is in this video. Keep your eyes peeled 👍