Adam Savage's New Mini Drill Press!
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- Опубліковано 25 кві 2024
- Adam is stoked to set up his latest benchtop tool: an old Dumore mini drill press that bears the modifications of its former user. Dual analog gauges show the level of precision Adam hopes to achieve with this drill, but first he'll have to take the whole thing apart to clean and fix up. What's the tiniest drill bit he can get to work in this drill press?
Shot by Adam Savage and edited by Norman Chan
Music by Jinglepunks
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#adamsavage #tools - Наука та технологія
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This machine reminds me of the old Westhoff drill I used to drill EDM flush lines into graphite with. I used a .010" drill and could drill a few inches deep with it. Of course, you had to clear the drill quite often, but getting dielectric oil into a deep rib pocket was crucial for a good clean burn. I think you should do an episode on EDM, Adam. There are a lot of people on your channel that would really enjoy it.
Adam you can find the manual & brochure for that model here - they made them with those gauges as well other components BROCHURE: like.audio/category/mechanical/drill-press/ MANUAL: vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2020/27544.pdf
You need to look up Rusnock mini milling machine
I've spent a long time (I'm 73) looking at and considering failure and have come to understand that every step of human progress is built on failure. There is no success without failure. Failure is the treasure house of learning. I spent so many years cursing it, until I realised it never goes away and it cannot be beaten. That doesn't mean it doesn't hurt any more, but I no longer fall very far into the pit of despond before I brush myself off and start again. I recently re-examined my various collections of things I've made. Every iteration and refinement of development comes from all the preceding pieces of work that must be made to discover their inadequacies and that makes me incredibly happy. Each one is a unique journey. So, how about "The demerit badges of honour collection"? They mean we're doing something and we should be proud of that.
"Failure is always an option"
You have posted a profound piece of wisdom. It took many years, but somewhere along the way, I realized that failure must be embraced. I've also learned how to identify when I have arrived at that point of diminishing returns and must walk away for an hour or a day. This can be difficult, but returning with a fresh mind always pays off in the long run. Thank you for your wisdom my friend.
Thank you @@Fred-oh9vland I am right with you about knowing when to walk away and have a rest. There's another thing which Adam has talked about, knowing when to finish, when it's good enough. I learnt that one through painting and ruining work by over working pictures. I guess the trick is to be gentle with ourselves. All the best.
My Dad said he would not "rob" my son of any of failures or mistakes because these are the best tools for our life. 🫶🏻
I've been homeless for the last couple years, and watching your Tested videos has been a wonderful way to pass the time. I learn as much from what you make as from the pearls of wisdom you drop along the way. I just discovered they've uploaded a bunch of Mythbusters episodes, and they're a blast to revisit. I am a maker myself, and I will be moving into an apartment in a few days. Can't wait to get back to making. Thanks for all the sustenance and inspiration.
🙏🏼🖖🏼👊🏼
Hey, shit happens but youll get out of it
Fantastic news, congratulations and good luck with your new place!
Best of luck to you!
No audio track, no crappy music. Just hanging out in the workshop with Adam. Leaving a 👍🏻
Make yourself a 'bumper' tool for your lathe - modify an insert tool holder with a roller bearing at the end (looks like a knurling tool, but with a bearing instead). Then you can mount bent shafts/screws/bolts in the lathe chuck and by applying cross-slide pressure with the roller, slowly massage the bend out.
Won't bending it just to the center keep it in elastic deformation and end up doing nothing?
@@teslatroopergotta push it a little beyond where desired to account for the elasticity. That way when it springs back it will be true.
Yep, you beat me to it. Those things work great for a variety of little tasks.
@@JP-up3ok So you have to be careful not to run it too long and workharden the shaft into being brittle?
@@rich1051414 it’s typically just a one time thing, and being careful it should not work harden to be brittle.
If aligning is something that needs to be done frequently, that leads to a design change to stop the cause of bending.
I made a few modifications to the shop sandblast cabnet that made it much nicer to use. Attached a small air powered vibrator to the hopper and tee it into the foot pedal control. Now we can keep less media in the hopper and not have to shake the booth every few minutes. Media would collect in the corners, so I added vents to pull outside air through those spots. The extra airflow cleared the dust cloud out of the cabnet so visibility was vastly improved. I also put a lock on the air pressure regulator, so the shop knucklehead couldn't raise the pressure above the shatter point of the media. This created less dust and extened the life of the media.😂
Good idea with the vibrator on the hopper. I've had mine clog several times now, i usually reach in and kick the hose. :))
@@aserta I put the shaker in the back and ran the exhaust hose around to the front with a control valve for speed control. It wornt need full speed, and it keeps the noise down.
I have a neighbour who's the complete opposite of this. He gets a new tool, insists he can improve it, and fails miserably. Usually resulting in the original item being unusable. He provides hours of entertainment.
Is his name Tim Taylor?
provides meth too if you wanted it
Why should the neighbor insist on special homosexual rights ?
He's Red Green kinda guy
He should make youtube videos.
The courage Adam has at just TAKING APART a new thing, is amazing! I've had to do it a few times myself, but just... that's the first thing he does?! Bravo dude, bravo!
Adam, I just finished re-watching your episode on your lathe injury. Might I suggest placing small squares of material next you your lathe, say 3" square, to use for buffing and polishing. A full rag poses greater risk of pulling your hand into the lathe. My father lost much of his index finger this way.
My highschool shop teacher had us use paper towel or toilet paper for polishing on the lathe. I came to the comments to mention how uncomfortable that segment made me.
Oh hey! A Dumore model 16! I'm in the jewelry field and these are highly coveted little machines. You see them on the second hand market here in the US semi-often, and they are almost always modified for some very specific purpose. (I recently saw one in an auction lot of old equipment from a local factory that used to make boiler gauges; it was configured to drill the same hole in the same spot on the gauge face-plate.) I have a stock Dumore 16 in my shop, and it's very helpful to be able to "feel" how much pressure I'm applying when I'm drilling
I saw the thumbnail and recognized it immediately. I really want one for my jewelry shop but used one here are few and far between and can't afford a new one. I got to use them at school for jewelry work. Lovely to use
I definitely suggest a foot switch. So you have one hand to lift the work piece and one hand to adjust whatever you need to. They make a big difference
There's something very sweet about Adam lovingly refurbishing an old well-used tool 🥰
In my shop, I wire up standard clamp lights to the inner wiring so that when I flip the switch of the machine, the light comes on. The clamps allow me to position them however I need depending on the machine. I find those lights at rummage sales all the time for $1 so I just buy them and attach them to machines. Usually only a 5-10 minute project to add a light to a machine.
My grandfather (a fitter by trade) had a hand cranked miniature drill press in his home shop. It fascinated me as an eight year old. It started with the chuck fully raised and the work clamped to the table. You began cranking and it started to spin up the flywheel. When the flywheel reached the target speed, something inside switched and the chuck started automatically lowering (without spinning). Then when the tool reached the work, the flywheel would connect to the shaft and start to spin the chuck. You had to keep cranking to keep the flywheel at the correct speed. Once the flywheel slowed too much, the chuck would automatically raise. For a deeper bore, you might have to wind the machine up again and go for two or three shots.
No idea what ever happened to it, but boy was it fascinating to watch.
i can spend hours watching Adam take apart and clean gear. So relaxing. But then I'd never get anything done. Thanks Adam.
You know the uses of your shop are endless and that’s amazing to me. That any and every resource you could ever need is there it seems like. Thanks for taking your time to make content to share your love of the hobby and art!
"Take it out of the box and fondle it" - Adam, you're a man of my own heart. After getting a new tool, I often do the same!
you are courageous sir. I would've been very hesitant to take that precision machine apart the way you did for fear I didn't get back together just right but I saw what you meant that shaft was bent. Good job straightening it out. I wonder what kind of special bits one has to get to use in it.
Friend of mine here in town is a clock and watchmaker and he has a whole shop full of miniature tools like that! Miniature Lays and cutters and everything you'd want to make tiny tiny watch parts. You've probably seen all that stuff before. All this stuff is so cool. Thanks for the video!
Between the power hack saw and this drill press, I simply don't have a favorite. Best channel on the tube, Adam rocks
Holes you cant see ! Thats a lovely idea using dial indicators , micro jig-borer, very nice. After finding excessive runout on a lathe and wanting to drill 0.5mm holes in 1mm rod ends I made a drilling jig with two opposing ER8 extension collets running in oilite bushes epoxy'd in place around a single ground shaft for alignment. Remove shaft , insert collet extensions, one with additional thrust bearing resting on the ER nut and HTD pulley to power, the other holds the pcb drill and slides freely with finger pressure to drill. with ER8 on a 12x100mm shaft (C12-ER8A-100L) they can be inserted from the rear so final collet to collet distance is ~ 25mm. It worked beautifully. Always a pleasure to see the life of the workshop. Dumore, still in production. Those Fortex drills are gorgeous. 100um, 0.1mm amazing. PS, the ER8 collers are shockingly badly split sawn, even at £17 each but the hole seems central.
It's always a good idea to talk quietly and calmly around a sensitive drilling machine...
Give that machine its own crying room.
I'll do you one better Adam, I designed my own tool. I call it the LE-Press, and it enables me to recycle plastic by hand. It's basically an all-metal spring-loaded flower press. I use it in a toaster oven to do a form of press molding. It gives me incredibly flat and solid sheets and sometimes an incredible level of detail in molded parts. It's dirt cheep and I've completely eliminated shredding! I don't often brag but I will brag about it. I think it, an my methods, are better than a lot of the other current ways of recycling HDPE at home.
One of my favorite things about it is that I keep trying to redesign it and nothing ever beats the original idea I scribbled on a napkin over 12 years ago. It's mostly coincidence and things I didn't even consider. But I just keep stumbling back into the original design. Like using bolts in the four corners. I did that out of necessity. But when I tried other methods I found that the bolts allowed me to incrementally cinch down each corner a little bit at a time. Which I didn't even know was necessary when I first designed it.
It reminds me of that trope in sci-fi where the prototype is always more powerful than the following iterations. We make jokes about it, but sometimes it just be like that.
I need to get back into makeing videos about my press. (I moved) but if anyone's interested you can see my poorly made videos on this accounts channel.
Every “Oh Wow” Adam says just puts a smile on my face. Thank you for all the great content mate!
I’ve got a mini compound lathe & mill from 1947 and last month I spent the better part of the day just taking it apart. Washing it up, refinishing all of the mating services, serviced the motor etc. I found it very enjoyable, and I always pull up one of your videos when doing something like that. I was lucky enough to re-purchase this item after being incredibly stupid and selling it. It took years to get back though.
The full-set of demerit badges could be the "Famous Last Words" Bundle.
Few things more satisfying than disassembling something like this in good shape and well taken care of, and mostly smashing every surface with metal polish, removing burrs and flattening faces.
I can’t say that I’ve modified any shop tools, but I did build my own slotted-jig to help me cut custom jump-rings for my homemade chainmaille projects. It turned out well enough to make a couple thousand rings roughly. I was cutting stainless steel jump rings with a super thin diamond-coated blade on a Dremel (with eye protection of course!). Then, I tumbled the jump-rings in steel shot to remove any sharp edges and burrs.
I adapted a cross slide vise onto a bench top drill press and attached a dust collector to the swiveling work plate, which currently also functions as a tool holder, it all made the drill press work soo much easier
Would have loved a drill press like that one,I use to do a lot of 1/144 scale star wars kits and would use .05 and .025 drills like you had with just a pin vise to do lighting and other modifications, would have to buy packs of just those 2 sizes because I would break them A LOT!! Thanks for sharing
Dumore makes both a tabletop located speed control switch and a footswitch for same. You will want to get one or make one. Heat absolutely destroys the tiny bits if you just run it wide open at 17k rpm.
I'm a heavy vehicle mechanic. I am almost constantly adapting tools for the role I need them to fill.
One example is the air hammer bit for driving out the bushings on air drum brakes. Lilse tool number 29450. Lisle made it reversible, but in a lot of cases, you could end up getting the end stuck in the hub itself. So what a lot of mechanics do is weld a bead on the tool to keep the 2 pieces together, effectively turning it into a single piece.
Becoming an Eagle scout requires earning 20+ merit badges and completing a project. Scouting is a 'learning through failure' organization. I think this bundle should be awarded as an 'phoenix badge' bundle, because of the successes that come from the ashes of failure.
So, from the brief view it looked like the "fine drills" were pcb via/hole drills, which are single flute and fine for perf board and some plastics-- may I suggest for drilling smaller than 1mm to try using micro end mills? They tend to come in packs of 10 of the same size and have multiple flutes for smoother cuts. I used to use them for CNC-ing microfluidic medical devices in polycarbonate. Love the new tool!
I love upgrading tools to my needs. I modified my Bosch tablesaw with a dewalt gear-system for the fence and an electric saw height adjustment. Took me 6 month. Made a video about it (in german). Had alot of fun making it and it turned out great.
Hmmmm!
Like a stepper-motor driven DRO for the fence? Brilliant!
What a lovely little sensitive drill press! Another use for them is making a decorative perlage finish on metal parts by replacing the drill bit with a small abrasive rod or a boxwood dowel with diamond paste.
For drilling super tiny holes and milling small parts I have an old Revo 540 four axis milling machine with a super precise high speed NSK spindle that was given to me by my work. The controller on it was dead so I modified it for manual use. I kept the stepper motors and wired up drivers for auto feed on the X axis and fourth axis. I also added a rotary encoder to the fourth axis for precise rotary positioning- all movements have digital readouts using a Touch DRO setup. I also made a neat mounting plate so I could attach a small rotary table to the fouth axis, which allows me to do some really neat machining setups- it came in handy when I was replicating some of the original Aluminum chassis parts for the mothership robot from the film "Batteries Not Included" for a friend. That robot chassis was really pretty complex and had lots of incredibly small fasteners!
a tip Adam, if you want to "feel" while precision drilling, you need a boley, or Lorch watchmakers mill/drill (8 or 10mm), they have dial indicator movements, micro collets, and the handwheels can be disengaged and levers put in place to make them a slide, not worm/wheel operation, increasing feel for this work on small parts.
Dumore still makes these precision drills. They are about 5 lbs lighter, so the base is probably made of aluminum now. That table was definitely modded with the threaded holes and obviously the adjustable base and Starrett gauges are some well thought out accessories. Dumore has some cool tool post grinders and auto feed drills and taps, flex shaft grinders and this drill, although with a new part number. Artco also carries this one 8576-210 (Past Catalog Reference: 16-021) and a whole manure pile of other cool tools!
Years ago I had a DuMore drill press. They were at one time the gold standard for small drill presses for PCB work. If you ever need a step up from that one look at the ones made by Servo. While on the subject of drill presses and mods I am currently tricking out my Proxxon TBM 115 Mini Drill press. It's a nice little press and overall is fairly well designed for the money, but has a serious shortcoming, It runs way too hot. So I have modified the die casting by milling slots in the back and also in the top of the casting around the motor drive pulley for airflow around the motor. I also drilled a star burst pattern of holes in the top cover and added a 3D printed (thank you X1 Carbon) air flow guide to which I attached a 60mm 120V fan for additonal cooling. This has made a big difference. I also designed a custom electrical junction box for a variable speed control which I also 3D printed. All of these mods were absolutely necessary for drilling PCB's as prototypes often have more than 100 holes and stopping to allow the motor to cool down just is not an option, especially if you have a dozen boards to drill! The hole sizes I drill range from a #80 (0.013") drill to as large as 1/8" using 1/8" shank micro grain carbide bits. I always use the Proxxon collets for PCB drills as they have far less runout than a chuck, even less than the really fine Jacobs (USA made version) 7B 0-1/4" chuck I bought as an upgrade. In addition to these mods, a friend of mine is making a custom furniture grade cabinet with a drawer for accessories and drills. I also designed in an LED illuminator into the cabinet that will shine up through the hole in the drill press base. This will be really useful for PCB work but I might have to modify an IKEA Jansjo goosneck LED lamp for topside work. For dust and swarf removal I designed and 3D printed a clamp for a mini vacuum hose (repurposed CPAP hose) that attaches to the column. I was also able to find a small ShopVac Micro vacuum that is perfect for the job but I plan to add a speed control to reduce the noise as full vacuum power is not needed for such light debris. So all in all I think it will end up being a nice piece of kit for PCB and small protowork. I plan to publish the work somewhere when it is all done and I'll probably work up some plans for the cabinet as well. I have not seen the cabinet yet as I will be picking it up tomorrow. It will be good to get this project completed. It has been more than a one day build thus far!
cremasteric reflex when you polished that with a rag and the drill. ... Years ago I saw someone break their finger in multiple places doing something similar.
"I can't even see the holes that I drilled!" Next video, finding a screw that fits into the holes that Adam just drilled! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Calm Adam’s voice is smooth as silk. Maybe some more videos like that for those more trivia cinema talks would be nice. Sitting on your chair, lamp beside you “hello earthlings here’s some stories about yours and mine favorite movies. Welcome to talks with Adam. I’m your host Adam savage:” 😅
Black and Decker used to make a drill press that utilized a hand drill. I managed to make it accommodate a Dremel type of rotary tool. I was so stoked with the results that I got another rotary tool and left the other in the press. Not bad for a garage sale find.
Generally if I'm modifying a tool it's because it broke/failed in some way. I was making custom oak trim on a router table and the router "died." Pulled the back off, found out the speed controller gave up the ghost. Didn't want to buy a new router, and waiting on a new part to come in wasn't an option. I grabbed some wire and bypassed the speed controller. It worked beautifully, but only at max rpm. Added a sign to both the table and router saying "Max rpm only, NO BITS OVER 1" " and went right back to work.
When the pandemic started, I began restoring old hand woodworking tools like planes of all kinds, chisels, gouges etc. It has become an obsession. I don't restore them to mint condition. I try to maintain their history, but make them functional and feel good in the hands.
I spent a year in a machine shop, to augment my artistic tool use ability, and one of our tasks was to drill a tiny hole in a particular part. We did this on the Bridgeport, and it just seemed like such over-kill. I suggested to the owner that we get something smaller. OMG, we spent way too much money on machines that just couldn't do this simple task. This Looks like exactly what we needed. I had a visceral reaction when I saw this. Thanks Adam.
A couple suggestions. When I am polishing something on my lathe, I like to use a piece of old leather belt. I can charge the split side with rouge or polishing compound and use the smooth side for finish buffing. Whenever I am stoning a surface I try to use a figure of eight pattern, it helps to make the surface dead flat rather than using a circular pattern. Also I have an old set of hold down clamps from A2Z manufacturing (now closed) for my Sherline mill. They are round aluminum discs with a counter sunk hole to fit 8-32 button head screws. The screw head edges are ground off center so they act like little cams that put side pressure on the work piece. They should work a treat on your tapped drill press table.
I had a tiny drill press where the table moved up and down for drilling. Of course, it was part of a Wilesco model-steam set-up that I got when I was 8, but, still :) For my " Big Boy" drill press, I made a pair of hold-down clamps for it, really simply using some heavy 1.5" steel flat-bar. I notched them so I could get a bit of a bend in one end, welded that notch closed again, and used my angle-grinder to cut some serrations into the "jaws" of these hold-downs. Even made by own little T-nuts for the table. Very simple, decidedly crude, but effective, and I was darned proud....
Why yes i did just click off another video to see 'uploaded 23 seconds ago'.
I have been blessed with a chilled Friday afternoon
I had no idea drill bits even came in such a small size. Some marvels in engineering deserve preservation. I knew you'd want to remake that bent shaft...it practically begged to be replaced.
Releasing banger videos this week!
Thank you!
A picture speaks a thousand words. Beautiful machine 😊❤
If you like that single speed drill press, you would love a Unimat. It has one speed; Unimat has 9 (900 - 7200 RPM) or if you get the low speed attachment 11 (330 & 620 RPM). The low speeds are a lot more useful than the higher ones. Unimat also has mill style table movements for precise positioning - in fact it converts to a table top mill. The head can be positioned anywhere on the solid (so more rigid than a hollow one) round column and it too comes off. And it can tilt at an angle on the column.
Unimat is basically a small lathe but it converts to a milling machine and drill press. There are also numerous accessories like table saw (wood and metal), scroll saw, jig saw, flexible shaft, etc. I can't remember all of them.
I bought a pretty cheap soldering station and added 5 Loc-line helping hands, a little battery operated fan to keep the fumes away, holders for wire and solder, a brass wire soldering tip cleaner and a handle (inspired by Adam's portable soldering station). The whole thing is modular, the helping hands can be removed and the fan as well as the tip cleaner are attached with lego.
The thing looks pretty crazy now, but I got everything I need to solder in once place.
I am REALLY looking forward to the video where you remake the mainshaft that's bent!
Love to see the Wisconsin representation. I’m an engineer in Milwaukee and there are more shop tool/machinery builders around here than I ever realized!
The X-Y stage for that drill press reminds me of the micro-manipulator stages they used to use at my first job in computing--the grad students in biology/zoology used them for looking at samples under microscopes. The "drives" were micrometer-like.
Those circuit drills are incredibly impressive. I use to be a machinist for a micro-medical supplier and used a lot of .005-.007 drills. It never failed to blow my mind that the they could break by practically looking at them wrong, but properly dialed-in they would withstand pecking 500+ holes in stainless at 20k rpm before losing tolerance. Wildly impressive.
Thanks so much for your video on the pencils! I was at a frustration point with carpenters pencils and had just decided to start exploring options. Papermate Sharpwriters are a game changer. Thanks! (and yes I've tried other mechanical pencils but they were always too fragile)
There is something so awesome about a tool that is so beautifully designed. It's a pleasure to use and a joy to look at. Thanx for sharing. 🌻
It's like coming home. It is beautiful, nostalgic piece of precision artwork. It was meant to be in your shop!
I added a bubble level to the top end of a battery powered drill so I can drill (somewhat) perpendicular holes.
Works like a charm!
Day derailed by a drill. That's Adam! Liked your spacesuit article in Air and Space Quarterly.
I love this kind of video , Adam your a star , gorgeous little drill , the spin speed is awesome . thank you for showing us .
Thank you Adam for once again introducing me to a tool I didn’t know existed and now desire.
So Awesome! Thanks Adam.
Great job. Thank you 😊
I'm a gunsmith. I am always restoring various firearms , even making parts for ones out of production. I'm a former factory maintenance man as well, and its in my nature to fix everything.
I had one just like it for a few years until i swapped for a Hauser precision drill. Excellent bit of kit, with a lot of work surface and quite precise. The chuck i had wasn't that good (worn off) but you can easily find replacements for these. Neat unit, very versatile. I DO strongly advise giving it a larger base, preferably a permanent home or a large cast iron tray. One it falls, it's game over, which is why i don't have mine anymore. I put off putting it someplace secure and i paid the price, which is a shame, because it's a gem of a drill.
I was thinking a bit wider base would be a plus.
Anything that has Starrett tools on it catches my eye. We are a Starrett family - family have worked there for decades. Cool to see!!
Love your work
Two potential areas of improvement I see are a chuck key holder to ensure it stays with your precision drill and maybe a carry handle like its predecessor.
Being able to tweak something and make it your own is a special talent and magical in many ways. I have an obsession with flashlights and admired how it is possible to bundle an LED that can flood an area with high CRI and pleasant tint beam but also have a long distance throwing LEP. I can't afford the real article so I 3D printed a twin retainer that can link two flashlight bodies with different setups to flood and throw. It was my moment of design and nerdom prowess shining. Nothing compared to what you have achieved but I am sheepishly proud of my creation!
I’m a drill press addict/collector/user. (But I can stop anytime I want to…..never had a reason to) 😂 This little drill is awesome. Now, I have a new hunt!
My lathe(s) have always received upgrades/enhancements to improve on the manufacturers designs. My Centec mill also got some improvements once it had been stripped down and renovated.
When I see an old tool like this, I imagine the person who must have wielded it, and I think it likely often that the original person who used it and modified it, that they are perhaps no longer living. I kind of like how a video like this illuminates some quiet aspect of that person's life, and it makes me think of my grandfather, and the tools he held, working away in his shop.
A basic one: I have 2 small children and my 2 power tools that they could access easily in the garage are a drill press and a bandsaw. They both have those childproof switches that you can pluck out, but then I was "well, with my stupidity I sure will lose them" so I superglued Neodymium magnets to the top of the plug so when I pluck them out, I just stick them to the top of the tool. Now kids cannot accidentally turn them on, and I am (hopefully) not going to lose them.
So very delightful. I found the same sensitive drill press, but not the micrometer positioning system. Always a student of micrometric accuracy and metrological science in general. This was especially enjoyable to see you put the technical care and veneration into a tool many precision trades!
I could see this being used as not just a drill press, but as a marking gage. Put a carbide scribe in the chuck and one could draw some very precise designs.
That is a VERY nice piece of equipment! You definitely have more nerve than I do, as the moment I started taking something apart and it has precision threads or parts, I pretty much go hands-off. Too finely detailed for me to tinker with. Really neat to see this operate, and see how finely precision tuned it is.
Beautiful piece
I bought a Unimat 3 multi-tool in the 70's that I still use weekly as a lathe for delrin and aluminum. I love that little tool. It is just the right size for what I work on.
Now I understand the true value of videotaping the dismantling of something. Video shows where something was originally
That sound at 11:20, where the tone goes down as Adam hits it?
'Tis a harbinger of dooom...
Years ago when i was first searching out bigger and better old iron to build my own shop I bought for 75$ a rusty dusty covered in grease and oil treasure. A garvin 1 1/2 universal miller. this was originally a horizontal lineshaft powered machine. it was converted to a vertical brigeport type mill with a head made by Tree Machine tools in Wisconsin for this
I got it tore it entirely down to nuts and bolts. Full clean repaint scrape and reassemble. Chasing down new parts and bearings for the mill head. Then because the dial had gone missing long ago on the table I added a 3 axis DRO. then using a dc motor from an Electric scooter and a new speed controller a couple sprockets a chain and some homemade mounts I rigged up the original mill power feed table mechanism to work again. So we now have a mill that was first cast in 1917. with a milling head made in the 1940's. with a modern electronic Dro. and a modern speed control and motor coupled to the original power feed. and it does work in the shop every day. Thanks for Sharing your treasures I am happy to share the story of one of mine.
The feeler gauge set up is custom work on that drill press. Also, the unit they sell now looks like it has plastic knobs instead of those nice aluminium knobs. Nice find. Looks like the only accessories are a foot switch (Meh, I'm not sure it's really needed for a machine like that.) and table top speed control which could be useful because I don't see any other way to adjust speed. I bet you can make a speed control or foot switch a lot cheaper. You can still get a good range of replacement parts. 935 USD is a lot of dough for that machine off the shelf. It may be worth it.
Love your content adam it always inspires me to create more stuff for my work space. Thank you for all that you have and are doing. You will live forever in my heart andin my workshop.❤
The series 16 Sensitive Drill press from Dumore has an external speed controller which comes in either a foot pedal or desk top dial from the manufacturer.
Any router speed controller would work. Heck a light dimmer would probably work. It shouldn't but they often do. If it blows up you can change the part that fries for cheap with a part what won't die.
I love the sound of the oil can, the little ku-thunk just sounds so nice.
Two new old tools in a week, Adam's spoiling us.
I routinely modify crimping presses (both benchtop and toggle) to be more usable. Better fixtures for applicator tooling, replacing fasteners to require fewer types and fewer wrenches, magnetic workholding, fixture plates, etc.
I have a Dumore sensitive drill press, a standard model, without the cross slide table. I used it a lot when my then current hobby was building RC model airplanes. It is a wonderful machine.
I thought this video was going to be about a Proxxon tool but I'm happy to have discovered another miniature tool maker. There's also Cameron mini drill presses
On my Ryobi palm router, I painted arrows so I know where the power switch is. Also a lot of my tools just have circles and lines for on off, so I colored Red or Green to make it more simpler.
I have a 3 phase planner thicknesser which has very short beds, so I made adjustable/removable in-feed and out-feed extension tables out of quality ply and hardwood. They worked ok.
Your perfect use of the word "fondle" has me tickled pink!
Mini precision high speed/sensitive drill presses are one of my favorites at fleamarkets. I've found 3 and never paid more than $20 for them as most people look at them and think they are toys. I used to also have Hamilton of Maryland mini vertical and mini horizontal milling machines. They were great quality and built more like a larger Bridgeport than one of the hobby mini mills of today. Other things things I'd find great deals on were mini rifflers and precision files like from Grobet and such, as well as carbide bit sets and such for Foredoms. People look at small things and tend to think they are cheap. I DID make a mistake one day and bought about 2k #55 drill bits. It was just little 5 or 10 packs of mini numbered drill bits, I forget if USA or Euro manufactured and I didn't hesitate and bought them all. I only realized afterwards they were all one size, heh. I think I only spent $20 so I don't mind. I've also bought a lot of German (actually, a lot of WEST German) made screwdrivers that were NOS for a buck a piece or less.
I have a 1936 craftsman lathe that i totally refurbished and used the same variable speed sewing machine motor on it, works fantastic thanks for that vid on using it...
I want to own one, even just to put on a shelf for gazing at. Such a beautiful industrial object.
(I left this comment earlier but I think it was automatically removed for linking to the website)
I google searched this and found another example that looks almost identical on a UK lathe website. It said:
"A very special Dumore precision drill press with a round table, covered with tapped holes, attached to a screw-feed driven compound slide assembly that allowed longitudinal and traverse movements. Each axis was fitted with a dial indicator and the table's elevation, by rack and pinion gearing, incorporated a micrometer depth stop with an especially large dial. For accurate spotting a microscope was also fitted. The unit, which might have been made by the English concern Kelston Engineering in Fishponds, Bristol (who built Dumore machines under licence) was supplied to the Ferranti - once an important company prominent in power grid systems and defence electronics - and, in 1951, the maker of an early computer, the Ferranti Mark 1."
I love my Dumore. I use it a lot. I highly recommend getting the matching Dumore foot pedal to control the speed. If the chuck is worn it can be rebuilt. Cool mod on yours. I have a mini x-y from a microscope for mine.
I got this pewter green drill press from China like 2004. Such a bargain, well you wouldn't guess, the vice stand exploded on 2.5 lbs of pressure on the tightening pin. The pin clamp assembly was made out of aluminum foam. The bonds were 5mm striations in bubbles, virtually tin foil connections. I had baught this great three axis vise to drill out a 60° 30° 90°, quaterion needs a sign because its a squashed equation. Like in school, all that fancy stuff is just mnemonics, like when I took TDY oscilloscopes OJT in Little Rock AFB, back in 1997, the guy was crazy strong, in the stupid dimensions. He explained that he knew everything about electronics through mnemonics, I was taken a back, holly balls, superman just has a vicious brain, but he was perfectly normal and all.