Hope so as well. If you don't get it pretty quickly, take photos of your sticks, the linkages at both ends. I'll see if I can figure out the necessary process to make it go straight when letting go of the sticks.
@@MaxsGarajMahal ok. Mate This is Joe from Australia. I just bought a scag liberty z 36. The right lever stays closer to my body when I am going straight. Bo Both lever look adjusted equally. How do I know if the problem is THE TRACKING, or do I just move the levers themselves?
@@medusa210562 With the levers (handles) (sticks) locked against their stops and the mower is going straight without veering then the handles need adjusting. If it is veering right or left, then the tracking needs adjusted, then the handles can be adjusted. Hope that helps mate. Cheers!
That's exactly right. If they are off in neutral, then they'll be off in forward or reverse. Let me know what you find and be sure to send some shots to MaxsGarajMahal@gmail.com to show me your set up.
Hi Max. My Raptor started moving jerky and then fully stopped. While trying to figure out the issue, I wanted to move the mower to a better location. The left hydro disengage lever won't move enough to lock it into the disengage position so I can push the mower where I want it...any ideas...thanks.
Check to see if it has a limb or any other debris blocking it from moving far enough. If none, disconnect from rod, then move by hand to see if it will disconnect. I can't tell you to go ahead and push or pull it, however if it were me, I know what I'd do. I'd pull it but I'd sure never tell you to. Is your drive belt tight? Is your wheelmotor full of 20w50 motor oil? Are the nuts tight on the steering sticks where the two levers come together? Do the two levers still have the spring on it? Is the steering rod connected properly at the steering stick lever in the front?
I need help! My left arm is fast, steers pulls to the right. Right arm won't go all the way forward , like something is stopping it,where left side goes all the way forward! I have to back off the left arm to go straight, which makes it go slow, or else it with drive to the right! Right side is slow turning to left and doesn't push all the way it stops! Mower place told me it's the steering damper! I researched it , and that only controls the stability! Please direct and help! Mower been in shop in and out for past yr! Not wanting put incorrect part and not fix problems. Repair person said not to adjust anything from factory setting. I am confused if a part is bad or needs adjustment!
1. You did not give me the model mower. 2. Put a drop of ATF fluid on the gas shock. Work it back and forth to see if it frees up. Can be partially the problem, not likely. 3.Jack up the mower and put it on jack stands or block the wheel motors somehow. Start at the front at the linkages from the gas shocks to the pivot points on the sticks. Make sure that all pivot points are not blocked by debris of some sort. 4. Below the deck where the sticks come up from their pivot point there is a spring. Check it to see if it is compressed equally with the slow side. 5. Make sure the steering rods are all straight and the same length and not binding. 6. Make sure the brake lever is completely retracted on the inside and is not locking up. After you have verified, found and taken care of what may have been the problem above, if none of those are true, then next step. With mower in the air, start engine, move the sticks all the way forward and hold ten seconds. Move them all the way rearward for ten seconds. Do this at least 4 times each direction. Put it on the ground. Check for speed. If speed is still slow on the right wide. Make sure both sticks are mounted at the same height on the mechanism that holds the stick. The bolt head will be facing the inside of the mower, going through toward the outside. It has a slot it can be moved up or down. If they aren't in the same altitude in the slot, that will slow down one side if it is higher than the other. That will also make the two sticks have an uneven height when the sticks are together. One will be higher than the other. If none of this helps. Mower off the ground, wheels removed. Get someone to move the sticks all the way forward. Scribe a point on the side of the wheel motor at the lever with something removable for further adjustments that may become necessary. Now move it all the way back. Doing the same to the other side. What difference between the distance traveled? If you see it doesn't travel rearward the same distance on both sides, you've now found the culprit. Make the adjustment as appropriate.
Update replaced damper now have lots forward power on the right which I didn't have. But in neutral mower creeps to the left and now pulling to the left going straight.Before was pulling and driving to the right? What is going on. Arms are pretty level now seems more power forward on right side
@@1cleosmom Pretty simple. With the mower on jack stands, sticks in neutral. Make sure both of your levers on the wheel motors are in the neutral position and the ears are precisely parallel. If it is creeping to the left, that means the right side steering rod needs adjust off a bit. Loosen forward nut and tighten the rearward nut until the wheel stops turning. Tighten both nuts before starting and testing. Once it has stopped creeping, then make a vertical mark on the rear tires from rim to tread. Straight line on the concrete that intersects the tire line. Drive forward until the tape on one side is once again straight down from your wheel center. Mark the concrete with tape. (I use an ink mark on the tape both on wheel and concrete. Measure both sides. If one wheel motor is still faster than the other, you'll get unequal measurements. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Hey max. Weird issue I’ve got on mine. The right motor is faster in forward but it’s slower than the left in reverse. I’ve tried to adjust tracking but no cigar. How could it be faster on one side in forward but slower on the same side in reverse?
Start with adjusting the sticks to neutral where they are straight across using a straight edge to assure they are sitting the same. Push them all the way forward, check them again. Pull them all the way to the rear, check again. Once you have made sure they are sitting where they belong make sure when forward the two wheelmotor levers are the same distance rearward from the center of the hex bolt in the twin levers on the motors. If either are not making the trip then put the sticks in neutral (park). Clamp the two wheelmotor levers at the bottom so they can't move. Then loosen the lock nut on the steering rod on the slow if that is the offender, loosen the adjusting nut as well. Now adjust so that they are clamping the two levers equally. Test. You can make the adjustment in increments until you have equal speed. Just make sure the motors are not creeping forward or backwards when in neutral. If you don't get it pretty quickly, send me an email. Max
Very very helpful! I have a Alpha 54" big dog and it wasn't driving straight, I watched this vodeo...did what he said and now it is perfectly straight when I drive!! Thx again!
Glad I could be of assistance. Check out all the videos, there are a lot of upgrades you may enjoy that will improve your mowing and owning experiences. Thanks for watching. Hope you'll subscribe. Be sure to join the Hustler Mower Owners Group. We have space for our BigDog bothers and sisters. Thanks again.
you could have cut off the first 16 minutes of explaining things you really did not fix and pushing other peoples services/products and then this would have been a great onfo vid! your last segment where you explained the adjustment on ,[ what i call] the drive rod with going either back or forward with the tightening nuts hit the nail on the head! that is how i adjusted my 60 inch super z.
Want to know how UA-cam works? People, unlike yourself, jump my ass all the time not giving them all the information both you and I call fluff or BS and I appreciate your evaluation although I'd never say it to anyone as I started doing that BS because I caught so much flack for not doing it and tried it that video and a few others. Reason people said I should do it is because you and I may be experts and know everything there is to know about everything which I do, hahahha, bad joke as of course nobody does. Most people watching 'how to' videos are stumped if you leave out even the tiniest tidbit of information and can't go to the next step because they feel there was an encyclopedia left out and are afraid to attempt anything already. So, when I do a how to video I do my dead level best to make sure every step is included as well as any help I've had or where I got any parts from so that the viewer has an idea where to turn other than the step by step and we both know knowledge is supreme when doing anything unless you are like me, I'll make something if I can't buy it. Thanks for the comment, not my most revered but then it was positive in the end so again thanks and I'm very happy it helped you in some small way. God bless. Max
You must be a southern boy "Use certified jack stands", that really means a floor jack and a piece of 4x4 ! You produce good content, thanks for sharing!
Great video! I have learned a lot. Thank you! With that said, I went to adjust the rod in the back and notices the rod was very loose or wiggly while the other side was nice and tight. How in the world do you tighten the rod itself? Also, i noticed my left handle had a lot of tension on it when I push forward it wants to push back, what could cause this? Thanks!
Anthony, where is the rod loose? At the bottom of the stick pivot in the front or at the wheelmotor? Refer to my How to Stop Squeaking - Sticking Steering Stick on Hustler Zero Turn squeaky sticks video for this.
Hey Max, I am getting a metal on metal scraping sound (actually a screeching sound) coming from the left rear wheel. I tried greasing the hub to hydro connection area, but not luck. Any ideas?
Does this screeching occur in neutral as well as with sticks engaged? Let's start at Fluid levels. Assuming your fluid is covering the bottom of your overflow - filler tank when cold then fluids are fine as the filler serves both hydros. If not, get them both filled, jack the rear wheels off the surface, pull the two lockouts at the rear of the hydros until they're locked into neutral, run both sticks fully forward and hold 5 seconds then fully rear holding for 5 seconds, do this ten times in both directions. Recheck fluid level. If the noise is only during moving operation check this: Are the lug nuts tight, are the wheel chamfered lug nut holes round and the nuts fitting properly? Is the wheel cracked around the center? If after you have made sure fluid levels are good and wheel doesn't have a problem, then drain the fluids from the wheel motors, make sure to refill with a 20w-50 detergent engine oil of any brand. Yes you can use synthetic if you choose, it isn't necessary. Replace the filters.
@@MaxsGarajMahal I'll recheck fluids and see if nut holes are round. Noise is only when moving. Last resort will be drain and refile of hydros...thanks.
Marine, thanks for your service Sir. You are absolutely correct. It only has the lower heavy duty cross brace #123292 and the clutch guard #120838 at this time. I designed a rear girdle I will do an install video on one of these days as well as just started working on an all new unannounced until just this moment a front girdle that will include the battery tray and middle cross member as an all in one girdle. To mount the front girdle, the battery tray will come out, there will be two additional holes drilled into the A cross member for the wider flange on the front of the battery tray - girdle. The outsides of the battery girdle cross member will also include two additional bolts on each side of the frame. There will be plates to sit on the outside of the frame for all the bolts to tie the outside and inside of the frame together. Thinking of making this outside plate to tie the B and C cross members together as well as the side brackets which could actually be a part of the enforcement brackets. The rear torsional movement should be pretty much relieved as the back end will be super stiff at this point.
@@biglon74 I have more coming. Hope you sub'd and hit the notification bell for new ones. By the way, be sure to enter the Foxpeed G29 Jump Starter Give Away. Won't cost you anything other than a like, subscribe and put a number in the comments between 1 - 10,000. Rules are in the description. ua-cam.com/video/fvD-dYxesoc/v-deo.html
@@biglon74 You might have two. I just bought another one a couple of weeks ago. Love the rascals. Can't hurt to enter and it might help me down the road with some other manufacturers providing give away items viewers can use. I'd appreciate it.
Hi! I’m going back out to adjust the springs and sticks first, then the nuts. Once I match those all up to my liking how would I increase the limit on the speed? Is it the Allen bolt right below the nuts?
I’m just confused as to what the bolt that requires a Allen key is used for, I’m trying to understand what every part does to further adjust the speed. As I noticed I can’t go in reverse fast enough. Or at least what it use to be
@@SnazzyK. Don't touch the allen head bolt. Has nothing to do with speed, steering, etc. Once you have the tracking perfectly straight with sticks lined up perfectly. Then you begin speeding up your wheel motors. Before doing any of the following adjustments, get a GPS on the mower. Run the mower for about 5 minutes around the yard or down the street to make sure exactly what the speed is to the tenth of a MPH. Now you are ready to follow the adjustments below: Clamp the two protrusions on the levers together. Loosen the rear most nut on the steering rod half a turn, tighten the front nut half a turn. Do this on both sides. Fire up the engine, then move the sticks to neutral. Check to see if the wheels are not turning on either side. Repeat the above adjustments until the tires just begin to turn with the sticks in neutral. Once the wheels begin to just show some creep or movement, return to the previous setting before the movement began. Make sure all the nuts are securely tightened. Check once again for creep. If none exists, then it is time to put the mower on the ground. Take the mower out, run it about 5 minutes around the yard or on the street with your GPS to get an accurate MPH reading. Check for creep in neutral as well. Let me know how much speed you gained. You should be able to pick up several tenths minimum.
While in park, loosen the front nut two turns. Tighten the rear nut one turn, tighten the front. Start the machine, move the stick inward to let the brake off. Check it. If it still creeping, continue the same until both wheels are no longer moving.
Do I have a video on what? If you're mower is cutting off when you pull the left stick reward, are you speaking of sitting still or during a cut? If during a cut, more than likely your seat switch needs to be adjusted or replaced as you're weight is shifting off the seat switch.
helpful video brother but you could easily trim the time done to half. I am 14 minutes in and you still are talking about what you are going to show us, as well as unrelated comments on stuff not related to adjustments. I think you probably lose viewers with the longer you take to get to the point of the vid.
Thank you Sir for the critiquing. I was slammed for not talking more and giving more upcoming information or information about relevant to items around the shop. Guess I am not perfect. haha. Thanks again.
Trying to troubleshoot my 2012 X-ONE and came across your vid. Perhaps "tracking" (as you describe) is the problem. The language I would use is the R side is "weak," meaning I have to ease back on the L stick to keep it straight going forward, and in reverse the R side doesn't seem to want to move hardly at all. And this problem has gotten progressively worse. Don't know if my X-ONE will be different than your Raptor, but guess I'll take what I can from your video and go see what I can figure out. Thank you for the encouragement; I especially needed to hear that last bit about being more responsible for keeping it in good working condition.
Actually, from playing around with it just now, it's really more of a reverse problem. R drive wheel just doesn't want to do its job in reverse. Going forward I don't notice it so much. Still a tracking adjustment you think?
@@havebikewilltravel3698 it could be that the two halves of the levers that the steering rod attaches to has been allowed to separate slightly. If so, it will go one direction, not the other.
I have the same thing happening on my raptor. Full forward on the right stick, but have to hold the left stick back and I've definitely lost speed. Going to go poking around behind the wheel on the right side and see if I can understand the two spots to adjust.
@@mattpeulen4528 They are different in wheel motors for certain. However, if your sticks are out of adjustment, meaning your stick need to go further forward to make your pump put more pressure to your right wheelmotor, then it won't reverse with the same pressure as your left. However, if your pump or motor is weak, first thing to do to check for pressure problems would be to jack the mower up so the tires are clear of the hard surface, then change fluid and filters. Before replacing the heavy 20W50 motor oil in your pumps, run a combination of ATF and 20W detergent oil in the pumps for extra lubrication to help flush out impurities and metallic particles if any. Run the pumps and motors for about 35 seconds to a minute. Run them with the wheel motors in neutral running the sticks forward about ten times, then reward about ten times. Then engage the motors to do the same again ten times fully forward and backwards. Then drain, replace the heavy 20W50 and filters. Be sure to pre-fill the filters. Now duplicate the above again before putting it on the ground. You want to do this a couple of times if necessary in order to get all the air out of the pumps, motors and lines in order to preclude cavitation. At this point, if the pumps and motors are working strongly, you should at that point recheck and adjust the veering or tracking. Good luck and have fun with this. It will be a learning experience, but it isn't difficult. Remember, if a 68 year old can do it, you can do it.
I'd like to see a video on how to do each step, starting with the lap bars touching each other or one is to far in or out. The last part was the most helpful for some, my ztr is different on the wheel transmissions
mine goes straight no veering, tires are exactly same air level to its corresponding tire, but left stick is 1 1/2 inches further ahead of right stick only in the most forward position also it goes backwards too without veering. sticks are even in park and in neutral. but cuts real good .
That is the easiest of fixes since you're not worrying with tracking. Start with your spring tension on the bottom of the stick. Make sure they are both equally energized. That will take out some of the extra travel on one side. Then move to the next adjustment.
@@MaxsGarajMahal i really like the right stick to move 1 1/2 inches forward to be even with left stick, b/c the right stick also is the tighter to move stick and i is the less sensitive stick too, the left stick that has more travel but easier to use is real sensitive. the right stick which stops 1 1/2 inches back is hard to move only in forward but you need to move it more to get mower to move and to turn with the left stick i could use my little finger with ultra light pressure to move forward or turn. the tight right stick (that stops 1 1/2 inches back) I need to put a lot of force on it to move.. Plus the right stick is bent so it looks like its sticking up higher then left stick .. I complained to the dealer from day one that its been like that and they will see it and deny it that its not bent.
@@dwaynemaslowski9398 Shoot some photos of the mower in the areas you're speaking to. Shoot them to me. I'd say you need to do some lubrication to all the pivoting points including the heim joints and at the wheel motors. The harder to move side probably has a bad gas filled shock inside the right side frame rail. Before you do anything else. Take some 3-in-1 oil or even better some air tool oil, maybe some Marvel Mystery oil which is actually only Type A transmission fluid and place a drop on the gas filled shock ram immediately in front of the shock seal inside the shock body. Capture any drippings so it doesn't fall onto the mower and capture dirt and debris. See if lubrication makes any difference before making any further adjustments.
Max great information about stick adjustments and adjustments on transmission I may do a little adjustment on my Raptor SD it does pull to the left a little bit that full speed Great video alway love watching them.
Everything your talking about your not shoe what bolts to loosen, etc, you should do each step and show how to do each step. I'm confused on the purpose of the video
Jay, have you submitted an application in Facebook? I didn't see it if you did. We always look forward to new members as well as new subscribers here also. I'll keep an eye out for your application. Max
Having to go through this with my world lawn 52” mower tomorrow. I was at it for a while and hopefully your video helps me out!
Hope so as well. If you don't get it pretty quickly, take photos of your sticks, the linkages at both ends. I'll see if I can figure out the necessary process to make it go straight when letting go of the sticks.
Very informative video
Thank you kindly. Hope you subscribed and liked.
So I do I know if the levers need adjustment or the tracking.
Please
Please restate in a question so that I am sure of your are saying. I'm headed to bed, but I'll address this in the morning. Thanks for watching.
@@MaxsGarajMahal ok. Mate
This is Joe from Australia.
I just bought a scag liberty z 36.
The right lever stays closer to my body when I am going straight.
Bo
Both lever look adjusted equally.
How do I know if the problem is THE TRACKING, or do I just move the levers themselves?
@@medusa210562 With the levers (handles) (sticks) locked against their stops and the mower is going straight without veering then the handles need adjusting. If it is veering right or left, then the tracking needs adjusted, then the handles can be adjusted.
Hope that helps mate. Cheers!
I have re watched your video, I think I have an answer.
I need to see how the levers stay in the neutral position
That's exactly right. If they are off in neutral, then they'll be off in forward or reverse. Let me know what you find and be sure to send some shots to MaxsGarajMahal@gmail.com to show me your set up.
Hi Max. My Raptor started moving jerky and then fully stopped. While trying to figure out the issue, I wanted to move the mower to a better location. The left hydro disengage lever won't move enough to lock it into the disengage position so I can push the mower where I want it...any ideas...thanks.
Check to see if it has a limb or any other debris blocking it from moving far enough. If none, disconnect from rod, then move by hand to see if it will disconnect.
I can't tell you to go ahead and push or pull it, however if it were me, I know what I'd do. I'd pull it but I'd sure never tell you to.
Is your drive belt tight? Is your wheelmotor full of 20w50 motor oil? Are the nuts tight on the steering sticks where the two levers come together? Do the two levers still have the spring on it? Is the steering rod connected properly at the steering stick lever in the front?
Did you get to the bottom of the problem?
I need help! My left arm is fast, steers pulls to the right.
Right arm won't go all the way forward , like something is stopping it,where left side goes all the way forward!
I have to back off the left arm to go straight, which makes it go slow, or else it with drive to the right!
Right side is slow turning to left and doesn't push all the way it stops!
Mower place told me it's the steering damper!
I researched it , and that only controls the stability! Please direct and help! Mower been in shop in and out for past yr!
Not wanting put incorrect part and not fix problems.
Repair person said not to adjust anything from factory setting.
I am confused if a part is bad or needs adjustment!
1. You did not give me the model mower.
2. Put a drop of ATF fluid on the gas shock. Work it back and forth to see if it frees up. Can be partially the problem, not likely.
3.Jack up the mower and put it on jack stands or block the wheel motors somehow. Start at the front at the linkages from the gas shocks to the pivot points on the sticks. Make sure that all pivot points are not blocked by debris of some sort.
4. Below the deck where the sticks come up from their pivot point there is a spring. Check it to see if it is compressed equally with the slow side.
5. Make sure the steering rods are all straight and the same length and not binding.
6. Make sure the brake lever is completely retracted on the inside and is not locking up.
After you have verified, found and taken care of what may have been the problem above, if none of those are true, then next step.
With mower in the air, start engine, move the sticks all the way forward and hold ten seconds. Move them all the way rearward for ten seconds. Do this at least 4 times each direction. Put it on the ground. Check for speed.
If speed is still slow on the right wide. Make sure both sticks are mounted at the same height on the mechanism that holds the stick. The bolt head will be facing the inside of the mower, going through toward the outside. It has a slot it can be moved up or down. If they aren't in the same altitude in the slot, that will slow down one side if it is higher than the other. That will also make the two sticks have an uneven height when the sticks are together. One will be higher than the other.
If none of this helps. Mower off the ground, wheels removed. Get someone to move the sticks all the way forward. Scribe a point on the side of the wheel motor at the lever with something removable for further adjustments that may become necessary. Now move it all the way back. Doing the same to the other side. What difference between the distance traveled?
If you see it doesn't travel rearward the same distance on both sides, you've now found the culprit. Make the adjustment as appropriate.
You may send photos.
Update replaced damper now have lots forward power on the right which I didn't have. But in neutral mower creeps to the left and now pulling to the left going straight.Before was pulling and driving to the right? What is going on. Arms are pretty level now seems more power forward on right side
@@1cleosmom Pretty simple. With the mower on jack stands, sticks in neutral. Make sure both of your levers on the wheel motors are in the neutral position and the ears are precisely parallel. If it is creeping to the left, that means the right side steering rod needs adjust off a bit. Loosen forward nut and tighten the rearward nut until the wheel stops turning. Tighten both nuts before starting and testing.
Once it has stopped creeping, then make a vertical mark on the rear tires from rim to tread. Straight line on the concrete that intersects the tire line. Drive forward until the tape on one side is once again straight down from your wheel center. Mark the concrete with tape. (I use an ink mark on the tape both on wheel and concrete. Measure both sides. If one wheel motor is still faster than the other, you'll get unequal measurements.
Good luck and thanks for watching.
Did you get your mower running straight forward without hands on the sticks?
Hey max. Weird issue I’ve got on mine. The right motor is faster in forward but it’s slower than the left in reverse. I’ve tried to adjust tracking but no cigar. How could it be faster on one side in forward but slower on the same side in reverse?
Start with adjusting the sticks to neutral where they are straight across using a straight edge to assure they are sitting the same. Push them all the way forward, check them again.
Pull them all the way to the rear, check again.
Once you have made sure they are sitting where they belong make sure when forward the two wheelmotor levers are the same distance rearward from the center of the hex bolt in the twin levers on the motors.
If either are not making the trip then put the sticks in neutral (park). Clamp the two wheelmotor levers at the bottom so they can't move. Then loosen the lock nut on the steering rod on the slow if that is the offender, loosen the adjusting nut as well. Now adjust so that they are clamping the two levers equally. Test.
You can make the adjustment in increments until you have equal speed. Just make sure the motors are not creeping forward or backwards when in neutral.
If you don't get it pretty quickly, send me an email.
Max
Hey max wjere can o get the dept guage decal in inches instead of letters
I have 50 of them at the moment. email me at my gmail and I'll explain how to get one.
Very very helpful! I have a Alpha 54" big dog and it wasn't driving straight, I watched this vodeo...did what he said and now it is perfectly straight when I drive!! Thx again!
Glad I could be of assistance. Check out all the videos, there are a lot of upgrades you may enjoy that will improve your mowing and owning experiences.
Thanks for watching. Hope you'll subscribe.
Be sure to join the Hustler Mower Owners Group. We have space for our BigDog bothers and sisters.
Thanks again.
@@MaxsGarajMahal Okay I will!! Thx!
@@andrewmorgan6963 Appreciate it as we need all the help we can get to keep bringing help to all of you. Thank you Sir.
How can I join the group
Simple. Go to Facebook, look up Hustler Mower Owners Official Group, apply and answer all the questions. You'll be in.
where did you buy your gripper and what kind of holders do you have to holder your gripper
ua-cam.com/video/9Uf1cjmRH1g/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/y6pmrK7HfNs/v-deo.html
Nice video my friend, but to long 🤭🤭🗣️🗣️
Thanks for the visit
you could have cut off the first 16 minutes of explaining things you really did not fix and pushing other peoples services/products and then this would have been a great onfo vid! your last segment where you explained the adjustment on ,[ what i call] the drive rod with going either back or forward with the tightening nuts hit the nail on the head! that is how i adjusted my 60 inch super z.
Want to know how UA-cam works? People, unlike yourself, jump my ass all the time not giving them all the information both you and I call fluff or BS and I appreciate your evaluation although I'd never say it to anyone as I started doing that BS because I caught so much flack for not doing it and tried it that video and a few others. Reason people said I should do it is because you and I may be experts and know everything there is to know about everything which I do, hahahha, bad joke as of course nobody does. Most people watching 'how to' videos are stumped if you leave out even the tiniest tidbit of information and can't go to the next step because they feel there was an encyclopedia left out and are afraid to attempt anything already. So, when I do a how to video I do my dead level best to make sure every step is included as well as any help I've had or where I got any parts from so that the viewer has an idea where to turn other than the step by step and we both know knowledge is supreme when doing anything unless you are like me, I'll make something if I can't buy it.
Thanks for the comment, not my most revered but then it was positive in the end so again thanks and I'm very happy it helped you in some small way.
God bless.
Max
You must be a southern boy "Use certified jack stands", that really means a floor jack and a piece of 4x4 ! You produce good content, thanks for sharing!
I am a Southern Boy! lol. I used Certified as a lawyer told me to keep my tit out of the ringer. I just call them jack stands personally. lol
Great video! I have learned a lot. Thank you! With that said, I went to adjust the rod in the back and notices the rod was very loose or wiggly while the other side was nice and tight. How in the world do you tighten the rod itself? Also, i noticed my left handle had a lot of tension on it when I push forward it wants to push back, what could cause this? Thanks!
Anthony, where is the rod loose? At the bottom of the stick pivot in the front or at the wheelmotor?
Refer to my How to Stop Squeaking - Sticking Steering Stick on Hustler Zero Turn
squeaky sticks video for this.
Hey Max, I am getting a metal on metal scraping sound (actually a screeching sound) coming from the left rear wheel. I tried greasing the hub to hydro connection area, but not luck. Any ideas?
Does this screeching occur in neutral as well as with sticks engaged?
Let's start at Fluid levels. Assuming your fluid is covering the bottom of your overflow - filler tank when cold then fluids are fine as the filler serves both hydros. If not, get them both filled, jack the rear wheels off the surface, pull the two lockouts at the rear of the hydros until they're locked into neutral, run both sticks fully forward and hold 5 seconds then fully rear holding for 5 seconds, do this ten times in both directions. Recheck fluid level.
If the noise is only during moving operation check this: Are the lug nuts tight, are the wheel chamfered lug nut holes round and the nuts fitting properly? Is the wheel cracked around the center?
If after you have made sure fluid levels are good and wheel doesn't have a problem, then drain the fluids from the wheel motors, make sure to refill with a 20w-50 detergent engine oil of any brand. Yes you can use synthetic if you choose, it isn't necessary. Replace the filters.
@@MaxsGarajMahal I'll recheck fluids and see if nut holes are round. Noise is only when moving. Last resort will be drain and refile of hydros...thanks.
@@MaxsGarajMahal I'll also see if I can record the intermittent screeching sound
@@pablocruze9307 Let me know if doing a purge changes anything.
@@MaxsGarajMahal will do...thanks.
your mower looks like it does NOT have the new hydro transmission upgraded mounts
Marine, thanks for your service Sir. You are absolutely correct. It only has the lower heavy duty cross brace #123292 and the clutch guard #120838 at this time. I designed a rear girdle I will do an install video on one of these days as well as just started working on an all new unannounced until just this moment a front girdle that will include the battery tray and middle cross member as an all in one girdle.
To mount the front girdle, the battery tray will come out, there will be two additional holes drilled into the A cross member for the wider flange on the front of the battery tray - girdle. The outsides of the battery girdle cross member will also include two additional bolts on each side of the frame. There will be plates to sit on the outside of the frame for all the bolts to tie the outside and inside of the frame together. Thinking of making this outside plate to tie the B and C cross members together as well as the side brackets which could actually be a part of the enforcement brackets. The rear torsional movement should be pretty much relieved as the back end will be super stiff at this point.
@@MaxsGarajMahal thank you Sir. My machine does have the upgraded brackets just have to do the adjustments for true tracking. Thank you for you videos
@@biglon74 I have more coming. Hope you sub'd and hit the notification bell for new ones. By the way, be sure to enter the Foxpeed G29 Jump Starter Give Away. Won't cost you anything other than a like, subscribe and put a number in the comments between 1 - 10,000. Rules are in the description.
ua-cam.com/video/fvD-dYxesoc/v-deo.html
@@MaxsGarajMahal surprisingly i already have a unit like it
@@biglon74 You might have two. I just bought another one a couple of weeks ago. Love the rascals. Can't hurt to enter and it might help me down the road with some other manufacturers providing give away items viewers can use. I'd appreciate it.
why does one steering stick creep open when mower is stopped it trav
The wheel motor is creeping or the stick is coming out of park? I didn't follow the question.
Halfway thru and I have forgotten why I clicked on this video!
Short attention span is usually inherited. lol. Thanks for watching.
Hi! I’m going back out to adjust the springs and sticks first, then the nuts. Once I match those all up to my liking how would I increase the limit on the speed? Is it the Allen bolt right below the nuts?
I’m just confused as to what the bolt that requires a Allen key is used for, I’m trying to understand what every part does to further adjust the speed. As I noticed I can’t go in reverse fast enough. Or at least what it use to be
@@SnazzyK. Don't touch the allen head bolt. Has nothing to do with speed, steering, etc.
Once you have the tracking perfectly straight with sticks lined up perfectly. Then you begin speeding up your wheel motors.
Before doing any of the following adjustments, get a GPS on the mower. Run the mower for about 5 minutes around the yard or down the street to make sure exactly what the speed is to the tenth of a MPH. Now you are ready to follow the adjustments below:
Clamp the two protrusions on the levers together. Loosen the rear most nut on the steering rod half a turn, tighten the front nut half a turn. Do this on both sides. Fire up the engine, then move the sticks to neutral. Check to see if the wheels are not turning on either side.
Repeat the above adjustments until the tires just begin to turn with the sticks in neutral. Once the wheels begin to just show some creep or movement, return to the previous setting before the movement began.
Make sure all the nuts are securely tightened. Check once again for creep. If none exists, then it is time to put the mower on the ground.
Take the mower out, run it about 5 minutes around the yard or on the street with your GPS to get an accurate MPH reading. Check for creep in neutral as well.
Let me know how much speed you gained. You should be able to pick up several tenths minimum.
Max's Garaj Mahal Thank you for this step by step guide. It’ll really help.
What if i have one wheel going foreword at neutral (what's the ajustment?) Thks
While in park, loosen the front nut two turns. Tighten the rear nut one turn, tighten the front. Start the machine, move the stick inward to let the brake off. Check it. If it still creeping, continue the same until both wheels are no longer moving.
@@MaxsGarajMahal you mean the nuts close to the transmissions?
@@jambonee400 Yes Sir.
@@MaxsGarajMahal Thank you very much!!!
@@jambonee400 You're very welcome
Thanks for the group add Max! Nice mower!
Glad to have you! Hope you enjoy and contribute often.
Do you have a video? When I pull the left steering handle toward me lawnmower cuts off
Do I have a video on what? If you're mower is cutting off when you pull the left stick reward, are you speaking of sitting still or during a cut? If during a cut, more than likely your seat switch needs to be adjusted or replaced as you're weight is shifting off the seat switch.
helpful video brother but you could easily trim the time done to half. I am 14 minutes in and you still are talking about what you are going to show us, as well as unrelated comments on stuff not related to adjustments. I think you probably lose viewers with the longer you take to get to the point of the vid.
Thank you Sir for the critiquing. I was slammed for not talking more and giving more upcoming information or information about relevant to items around the shop. Guess I am not perfect. haha.
Thanks again.
@@MaxsGarajMahal I appreciate your effort to make the vid to help others. God bless
@@doyleredwine1683 Thank you Sir and thanks for the subscription. I truly do try to help others.
God bless you Sir.
Trying to troubleshoot my 2012 X-ONE and came across your vid. Perhaps "tracking" (as you describe) is the problem. The language I would use is the R side is "weak," meaning I have to ease back on the L stick to keep it straight going forward, and in reverse the R side doesn't seem to want to move hardly at all. And this problem has gotten progressively worse. Don't know if my X-ONE will be different than your Raptor, but guess I'll take what I can from your video and go see what I can figure out. Thank you for the encouragement; I especially needed to hear that last bit about being more responsible for keeping it in good working condition.
Actually, from playing around with it just now, it's really more of a reverse problem. R drive wheel just doesn't want to do its job in reverse. Going forward I don't notice it so much. Still a tracking adjustment you think?
@@havebikewilltravel3698 it could be that the two halves of the levers that the steering rod attaches to has been allowed to separate slightly. If so, it will go one direction, not the other.
I have the same thing happening on my raptor. Full forward on the right stick, but have to hold the left stick back and I've definitely lost speed. Going to go poking around behind the wheel on the right side and see if I can understand the two spots to adjust.
@@mattpeulen4528 They are different in wheel motors for certain. However, if your sticks are out of adjustment, meaning your stick need to go further forward to make your pump put more pressure to your right wheelmotor, then it won't reverse with the same pressure as your left.
However, if your pump or motor is weak, first thing to do to check for pressure problems would be to jack the mower up so the tires are clear of the hard surface, then change fluid and filters.
Before replacing the heavy 20W50 motor oil in your pumps, run a combination of ATF and 20W detergent oil in the pumps for extra lubrication to help flush out impurities and metallic particles if any. Run the pumps and motors for about 35 seconds to a minute. Run them with the wheel motors in neutral running the sticks forward about ten times, then reward about ten times. Then engage the motors to do the same again ten times fully forward and backwards.
Then drain, replace the heavy 20W50 and filters. Be sure to pre-fill the filters. Now duplicate the above again before putting it on the ground. You want to do this a couple of times if necessary in order to get all the air out of the pumps, motors and lines in order to preclude cavitation.
At this point, if the pumps and motors are working strongly, you should at that point recheck and adjust the veering or tracking.
Good luck and have fun with this. It will be a learning experience, but it isn't difficult. Remember, if a 68 year old can do it, you can do it.
You mentioned to everyone to use a rated jackstand for safety, and then show your mower supported with a hydraulic jack with a wood block.
That is correct.
I'd like to see a video on how to do each step, starting with the lap bars touching each other or one is to far in or out. The last part was the most helpful for some, my ztr is different on the wheel transmissions
I'll have to see about doing that for you.
Not necessarily for me but everyone who mite not know,
Qqqwwww wss z,,n nd yolo l)) iou o?+?**,;;,,,,;
mine goes straight no veering, tires are exactly same air level to its corresponding tire, but left stick is 1 1/2 inches further ahead of right stick only in the most forward position also it goes backwards too without veering. sticks are even in park and in neutral. but cuts real good .
That is the easiest of fixes since you're not worrying with tracking. Start with your spring tension on the bottom of the stick. Make sure they are both equally energized. That will take out some of the extra travel on one side. Then move to the next adjustment.
@@MaxsGarajMahal i really like the right stick to move 1 1/2 inches forward to be even with left stick, b/c the right stick also is the tighter to move stick and i is the less sensitive stick too, the left stick that has more travel but easier to use is real sensitive. the right stick which stops 1 1/2 inches back is hard to move only in forward but you need to move it more to get mower to move and to turn with the left stick i could use my little finger with ultra light pressure to move forward or turn. the tight right stick (that stops 1 1/2 inches back) I need to put a lot of force on it to move.. Plus the right stick is bent so it looks like its sticking up higher then left stick .. I complained to the dealer from day one that its been like that and they will see it and deny it that its not bent.
@@dwaynemaslowski9398 Shoot some photos of the mower in the areas you're speaking to. Shoot them to me. I'd say you need to do some lubrication to all the pivoting points including the heim joints and at the wheel motors.
The harder to move side probably has a bad gas filled shock inside the right side frame rail. Before you do anything else. Take some 3-in-1 oil or even better some air tool oil, maybe some Marvel Mystery oil which is actually only Type A transmission fluid and place a drop on the gas filled shock ram immediately in front of the shock seal inside the shock body. Capture any drippings so it doesn't fall onto the mower and capture dirt and debris. See if lubrication makes any difference before making any further adjustments.
Thanks for letting us know..
Thanks so much Max! Great info now I will attempt to adjust mine you gave me the confidence to attempt this repair. Great video very informative.
Dave, you can do it and thanks for watching. Hope you'll subscribe and hang around for more to come.
@@MaxsGarajMahal already did Thanks again!
@@Destroyers2023 Hope you found the information useful.
Dave D, did you get your veering lined out from this video?
Thanks, I thought I was imagining my ZTR veering left a little.
If it is veering, you now know how to resolve the issue. Let us know here and in the Hustler Mower Owner Group how you resolved your issue.
You make it sound and look easy. Turns out it isn't you making it sound and look easy. It is just as easy as you said.
They rarely go straight lol.
Praise Jesus Christ our Lord
Amen!
Max great information about stick adjustments and adjustments on transmission I may do a little adjustment on my Raptor SD it does pull to the left a little bit that full speed Great video alway love watching them.
If you need further information, pick up the phone. I think you have my digits, right?
how about them daisy dukes! they are trying to make a comeback
I'm an expert on Daisy Dukes. Just ask the staff at Rib Crib BBQ. haha
@@MaxsGarajMahal you better behave yourself over there hahaha..
@@577buttfan Behave, what's this behave you speak about?
Good explanation Max.
Sorry but you babble to much. Just get to the point on how to make adjustments!
Everything your talking about your not shoe what bolts to loosen, etc, you should do each step and show how to do each step. I'm confused on the purpose of the video
Telling you which ones to loosen and showing you which ones to loosen and tighten wasn't enough? Sorry
I’d like to join the hustlers mower owner group
Jay, have you submitted an application in Facebook? I didn't see it if you did. We always look forward to new members as well as new subscribers here also.
I'll keep an eye out for your application.
Max
Great info!!!
Thank you!
Ben Herndon
Ol lord he has got me so confused.. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
That doesn't sound like a question. lol
they even more expensive in 2018
Good Lord knows that's right!
Kinda long winded
Did it help you?