Checking an Old Electrical Panel For Loose Connections With a Wiha Torque Screwdriver
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2024
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Here we check all of the breaker terminations to see if they were correctly tightened/torqued when they were installed. Almost every connection that we checked was not tight enough based on the 36 in-lb value that was stated for the connections.
0:00 - Loose Connections in Electrical Panel Intro
0:35 - WIHA Torque Screwdriver
1:57 - QO SquareD Breakers Properly Torqued
4:38 - Which Breakers Had Loose Connections?
5:11 - Other Terminals
6:19 - Should You Have A Torque Wrench?
7:41 - SUBSCRIBE!!!
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Blessings,
Ben
Thanks for the great video.
Except in recent videos, I have never seen an electrician use a torque screw driver on circuit breaker screws to tighten down the wiring for good contact.
That is roughly 70 years of watching construction workers!
For the safety of my wife, our children and me, and our house $200 is cheap.
Thanks again.
Interesting maintenance topic. I had a circuit with a pet water fall drinking fountain. It used a small electric pump that burned out. I ran through two more “must be defective pumps” before calling an electrician. Couldn’t think how it could be the circuit as a coffee maker on the same outlet was fine. Electrician traced problem to a lose breaker wire which wasn’t properly tightened. In any case he put a meter on it an showed me that the lose connection was causing voltage fluctuations. Thanks for your video.
That's super interesting.
I had the doorbell transformer wire fall out of its circuit breaker last week. I pulled the breaker out to ensure the 16 gauge wire was actually entering the toothed wire jaws in the breaker. Torque on the no-wire breaker was very tight to loosen it and I retorqued by hand. It was obviously not inside the wire jaws previously. I am not sure how the “tighten then pull on the wire to see if it comes out” method didn’t work.
Love this video ,as a building inspector,our city requires torque test on panel inspections, I also refer your videos to contractors that ask “why they have to torque when no other city requires it”👍 good job ben
I recall when I was very young and learned about electricity in high school: getting brave and opening our families panel to look around, I checked the screws out of nothing else to do. They were loosish like your first example. These two videos prove a little tinkering can be good.
Thanks for the video - I have a similar torque wrench for mounting scopes on rifles, now I think I should use it this weekend to check my main panel!
because of these videos with that screwdriver I ordered mine yesterday. I cant wait to put a video out on my channel doing the exact same thing in my panel at the house. The torque screwdriver was expensive but in our line of work 200 isnt nothing when you factor in something bad happening to someone's house. Those loose connections will get you for sure ... Great video brother.
For sure. I watched the lights get bright and the picture on the T.V get really big. Just at random. Found loose neutral in the panel. Good post.
I bought this kit after seeing your video. Part of my profession is installing lighting control systems. This has been a great addition to the tool box.
I saw another similar video about this torque screw driver. They have some good advice about backing out all the screws first than going back using the torque screw driver to properly reach the spec torque settings. Sometimes people over tighten and I know that can cause issues as well down the line.
Benjamin, great video except you just got started. Our company used to do scanning of electrical components as part of preventative maintenance as part of our business. When scanning panels, we would find hot connections. 99% of the hot connections were the neutral connection, not the breaker or hot connection. Not sure why but that is reality.
In my University we have make a test, how high the force of a connection is at the beginning and how the force is decreasing with time.
First we increased the force of the screw so high, that the cooper string which is between goes in a condition of material flow, so that he is not round any more and the force is pressing the surface on the contact-area, so that they are flat to each other.
The force decrease in the first seconds very fast and within the next days slowly, till the material is not any more in this flow-mode. This means that the copper-wire does not change his shape any more.
But this means that you can build up a force of 36 inch pounds (we use Newton Meter , Nm) and after a while the force has reduced to maybe 32 Inch pounds.
This means that you can go to the same Panel and increase the force to 36 Inch Pounds again, but this will make the cable more flat.
A while this will be okay, but some day you have to cut of this peace of cooper and use a new section of the cooper-wire which is unused.
An other interesting fact is the way how the force if wires will be reduced.
If the wires heat of because of a high current, then the diameter want to increase (material expansion because of heat), then the material comes into the flow-mode and the contact force will be reduced so that the material comes out of the flow-mode.
But if the current in the wire is reduced, the heat will decrease and the diameter of the cable is shrinking (a tiny bit), but because of this the force is lower that at the beginning.
Now we increase the current over the wire again, but now the connection is not so tight any more and this will increase the contact resistance and this leads to more heat. 😕
More hat means more material expansion and again a decrease of the pressure-force to the contact.
This goes on and on ... and is the reason for for cable fire in the meter box, flush-mounted sockets and everywhere where contacts are.
The best solution in my opinion is to use circuit breaker with spring contacts, there the force is always the same and the maintenance effort is reduced.
You do not use special tools to create a good connection. Some of he "Hager" circuit breaker have it and there it is called "QuickConnect". I think in the USA they will have something similar.
It seems to ME that a spring connector will also be affected by heat, and would likely be more problematic than a screw that can be retightened.
@@whotobelieve3612 - No. Imagine you have maybe 3 sheets of metal and you connect them with with screws. If you heat up this metal, then all 3 sheets will expand and increase the force on the screw, so that the screw will expand too. The force will go to unlimited, because expanding metal .. is not easy to stop.
If you cool this down now, then the 3 plates will be loose a bit and do not connect to each other so good any more.
If you use a spring between one side and the nut, then this force will be nearly constant. Even if the 1 inch thick sheet of metal will expand 0.01 inch, then the spring (maybe 0,1 inch in length) is able to reduce the increasing force to only 110% of the initial force of the spring.
If you do not use a spring, then the additional 0.01 inch will increase the force on the nut to an insane value. The screw or the piece of copper that is in between has only the choice to deform.
I think "creep" is the metalugical term.
Be nice if there was a 1/4 in square hole in the end of the handle so you could use a ratchet to assist in getting it torqued down. Does look like a lot of force just for the spec you showed in the video. Sure it takes its toll after a while. Really enjoy the channel. Thanks for taking the time to put together all these videos.
I just power off and torque with a quarter drive inch pound torque wrench. Works well so far. Higher torque lugs get a bigger torque wrench. Have a set if Allen bits, torx bits and screw deiver bits.
A lot cheaper and you get the same affects.
The Wiha torque screwdriver is designed to use its own insulted bits and not 1/4” bits without an adapter. It keeps your hands away from a live circuit rather than as close as you were. Great videos
Yup! Probably worth the investment too. I need to get the bits so I can stop complaining about not having them! Haha
@@BenjaminSahlstrom I have them they are excellent you can use them for the wiha Speed E and speed E2. Get the speed E2 great for receptacles you can get separate predefined torques bits for SpeedE2 as well. Question is do you do that with receptacle terminals? I do the NEC 2020 Handbook and Annex I has details.
Also check the neutral wire and earth wire. And in the sokets too.
Another tip. Place the wire loop around the screws in a clockwise direction if possible, so the wire turns in and not out when tightened.
The WIHA screwdriver is insulated up to 1000 volts.
Good vid and good demo ... Thx for sharing ...
That is an interesting conflict. They're supposed to be torqued once, not twice. Yet many of the torqued 'once' connections I've encountered allow you to pull the wire out of the connection with a simple tug. The torque thing definitely has some flaws...especially with stranded wires. Just IMO.
Great idea to check connections 👍
Very good lesson for me.
Proper torque is really important. I had a hot tub circuit board fry with one of the leads melting in its connector.... must have loosened over time.
I don't know if this was mentioned, but if you are working on an older house that has Aluminum wiring, this is EXTRA IMPORTANT: they have a much greater chance (in my experiance) of loosening over time, due to the dissimilar materials (Alum wire/ brass terminal screws) heating/ cooling at different rates. I've always just made sure they were "tight" by feel, but I'm gonna grab my gunsmithing (Wheeler) tourqe screwdriver and check some screws on a panel I recently replaced in my garage :)
Excellent point
I recently corrected an engineer about his house inspection report about a home built turn of the 1950's stating that there is aluminum wiring in the house. Aluminum wiring was used end of the 60's early 70's when copper cost a fortune. Homes wired in BX prior to that had silver clad copper wire. Minimum AWG for aluminum back in that period and still is 12 gauge for a 15A circuit.
Absolutely. The only problem is that the wires the really need it are the main feed wires, if I'm correct.
I owned a house that was built by the previous owner. I think he did his own electric work. I got voltage rises in my kitchen when a toaster was turned on. I traced it back to the sub-panel neutral which the installer had cut too short. It was pulled tight and had a 90 degree bend entering the lug. It also was not tight enough. Over time the aluminum wire had heated, oxidized, and became even looser. I was able to fix this, before I fried any 120 volt appliances. A loose neutral is a serious problem, so if the power company suspects it is in their connection to your house they immediately send a line man to correct it.
Your muscle straining does a good job of showing that 36inch/pounds is pretty darn tight with a standard screwdriver, obviously much easier to hit with a wrench due to leverage. All the pros and DIYers that tighten the screw to 'tight' and check it by pulling on the wire are fooling themselves. You really need to put some muscle into getting the right torque.
I was surprised by it as well. I want to test it against another torque wrench to make sure it's accurate. I don't really doubt Wiha's quality though so I'm sure it's correct but it did feel really tight.
Thanks for sharing
How about the main lugs, were they loose also?
Very nice pieces of tool
It’s so very fun for me,
so i tell you: I have the hobby to spread science by asking people for watch-suggests and also offer the same.
You can buy a petty nice inch pound torque wrench with fittings that are used in bicycles shops for under $80 dollars. It would would take some of the grunt out of wiring a box. I’m a automotive mechanic that just sayin. Oh! I almost forgot you helped a bunch when I was installing a generator connector box, running conduit, installing the safety lock out slide switch thingy, moving breakers, grounding every piece of metal, and running 6 & 8 AWG wires. When I was done I Ohm’ed every wire at least three times looking for shorts before test running the install. I don’t like working around big time utility or big generator voltage. But I did get the certified Electrician down the street come and inspect it all. I was very proud of my work but he just said it was OK!😦
Thing is: You cannot 'verify" torque by rechecking. Wires collapse under [mechanical pressure] load with screw-type tightening devices. Hence the argument for 'spring-type' devices. I still like screws over springs but realize that screws are fixed-position and springs maintain mechanical load. Fun stuff.
I actually opened my panel to entertain this maintenance. I forgot I have to remove the faceplate, and I don't feel like resetting clocks throughout the house. This is on my list of to-dos.
Love your videos💜💜🐶
youd be shocked how loose connections get after decades.. the 14 acres i got.. i replaced every receptacle and switch in the house.. and boy oh boy every wire nut and screw on the connectors were needing tightened... i just replaced it all.. deff isnt worth a fire.. now i need to work on the barn receptables and switchs and the former dog kennle building
It's the same with torque wrenches you want to set it at the minimum after your done as you don't want prolonged 'pressure' on the internals of the tool, as it will/can go out of calibration range.
I had a problem years ago with loose connections for my dryer receptacle. I do wish I had a torque screwdriver, however an electrician taught me a trick and I would be curious if this works. Tighten it down until it stops, then back it off a little bit, then you can tighten it a little further.
good jobs bro
I use the turn until it strips method and hope for the best.
Yeah, me too previously. I try to stop right before it cams out but somehow thats a pretty hard to do consistently!
nice video man. you should check those bus bars too :)
That'll have to be in another video I guess! I should have mentioned something about it though.
Should you check the common and ground as well. Does it have a spec and what would it be?
I think a inch punch torque wrench would be a cheaper option
I would imagine neural and grounds should be torqued also.
Great video!
For sure.
top #3 comment at this pt.
For bolt on style breakers does the torque spec apply to the wire connection and the bus bar bolt on connection?
It looks pretty scary to me even though they were under torqued they seem to be very firm beyond just loose. Always get a little nervous when you do inch pound torques! Great video very cool torque wrench
You got some 2 hot wires going into some of those breakers. That might be why they aren’t torqued down properly, unless those breakers are listed for 2 conductors.
Curious what as some of the causes for random light flickering in a house? Say like in a room the all the circuit has a quick flicker. Lights and outlets.
Thanks for bringing up this subject. Don’t forget that copper is fairly ductile so it will deform a little over time rendering the connections looser than when they were installed. If the panel is located where there is a wide swing in temperature that also causes the connections to become looser over time. Additionally, some breaker circuits that are heavily loaded may also be subjected to the conductor heating up a bit. All of these factors result in the connections loosening up over time. Also, it is not just the breakers that require correct torque, but this also applies to the ground and neutral bus bars, in feed connections, etc. What I don’t know is how often that the connections in any given panel or disconnect switch should be revisited for correct torque. Anyone know this?
I don't know, but I'd say 5 years; 10 years for sure.
It’s so very fun for me,
so i tell you: I have the hobby to spread science by asking people for watch-suggests and also offer the same.
I'd like your opinion on the Emerson 49P11-843 SureSwitch Relay? I am thinking of using these on the condenser units at my home. Thanks, Jenkins A/C & Heating
Holy cow. That is very scary. Ok fine I'll get a torque screwdriver haha
Just bought the Capri tools torque screwdriver. Looks really nice.
Awesome!
@@BenjaminSahlstrom love your videos man!!! Really helpful stuff you post
Soft joints can and do relax by as much as 50%. Proper initial torque takes this Into account and torque checking also needs to take this into account.
I have often found that screws have worked loose over time due to the consent current fluctuations that screwdriver is a good one and I picked up a universal 100-bit screwdriver pack that fits nicely and gives you all the bits you will need
Nice! What's the model of the bits you have?
Oh, they're in the Handel. LOL
I know you've done it....
Good point, home diyer,, and had a strange occurrence plugged an airless paint sprayer, popped breaker, had lots to do so moved on to another outlet, when I finished went to reset breaker, none tripped, never solved, went to bed, next morning magically circuit working this is a lamp circuit so effects lights, switched outlets, turn one more on, lights out, now the dmm comes out and every breakers is showing 120, but no power, voila about 12 hours later, power comes on, flip every breaker, no circuit goes off, can a breaker fail thermally like that?
It would seem like there is not such thing as "over torqued"? Since the screwdriver will break loose, it is not capable of telling if a screw was torqued too much (risk of breaking internal threads or holders). Any thoughts on this? Great video...
Harbor Freight 1/4 drive torque wrench and long extension for the win. Although I do own the Wheeler torque screwdriver too.
I wonder if they make insulated 1/4 extensions. That would improve the safety aspect.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom Why? If you follow the 3 Golden Rules of Electricity there is zero need for insulated tools.
1. Don't work on live panels.
2. All circuits should be considered live until confirmed dead.
3. If stupid enough to disregard above confirm you're not the path to ground.
@@jstaffordii True! Still doesn't hurt to have insulated stuff wherever possible though.
What state let’s you double tap breakers???
I found some loose breakers in my apartment electrical panel. Plan on making a call.
a FLIR camera will show the heat from the loose connections (under load)
Do you need to have the electric company shut off the power to torque the main? I had checked all my breakers except the main of course.
Bro...literally every. single. connection in every. single. panel out here in Vegas is loose. its crazy.
We've all probably over tightened something at one point or another. It's a horrible feeling to strip something out but can give us good data as far as feel goes. I personally am an over torquer so I tighten things to the point just under where I think I'm going to break it. For people with the opposite problem, perhaps give it another twist and call it good. I think we would all (nearly) would love to have something that gave us that type of consistency but the reality is $200 for something that doesn't come with bits is far from idea and why we don't all have them. Don't get me wrong I would not trust a $10 one but there has to be some mid meeting point. I must say the click is super satisfying. I think it would become more of a must have in my tool bag if that was my main function but since I only deal with electrical when necessary I'll have to live vicariously through your examples and clicks, LOL. Cool tool, cool video. :)
Had an issue on a breaker. The wire was glowing as it came out of the terminal. Only noticed this as the room was dark. It fed a kitchen outlet. I disconnected and the wire was blackened. Wonder if it was loose causing an arc...
A loose connection creates heat. Sometimes you can see damage to the insulation from a bad connection.
@@richardh361 I should rephrase. It was causing an arc. I could see it at the terminal. Tried tightening it down but damage was too severe. Will need to swap out the fusible unit. Thanks for your feedback, Richard H.
If you snagged it for ~$200 you made off lucky because its $272 now. Just checked the price history and you caught it on a price dip
Shoot. $200 already seemed ridiculous. Must be that "transient" inflation.
FJB LGB!!!
You only showed checking the torque of the HOT leads. You also need to check the NEUTRALS! They carry the same amount of current. You can find the torque spec for the neutral buss screws on the panel label (or contact manufacturer). If the buss has different size screws, they probably have different specs. I bet if you do check them, you'll find just as many (or more) loose neutral leads.
Nice video!! I was wondering if after the click does it keep turning the screw if you keep turning ?
Nope, if you keep turning it just keeps clicking and does not tighten any further than the torque setpoint.
The proper way to use any torque wrench or screwdriver is to tighten slowly until it clicks and then stop turning. If you are tightening quickly, or turning past the point where it first clicks, you can get the screw / nut to tighten more than the torque you set. So if you keep turning past the click, it will keep clicking, and may over-tighten a little bit, but eventually the screw won’t tighten anymore
Thank you for the reply!!
One-click only as these screwdrivers should be checked for calibration every 5000 clicks - don't waste the clicks!
@@efixx Interesting. Didn't know that!
I get the concept but for residential panels let's say there are, what, between 20 and 40 or so connections whereas, yikes, 10x or more connections throughout all the circuits? I respect the German-engineered Wiha tool but until everyone starts installing Wago nuts or similar in all their j-boxes should there also be a $200 torque thingy for wire nuts? If safety is paramount why stop with the load panel? I'm not being completely sarcastic because, seriously, I recently found a partially melted wire nut in a J-box that I think it was due to a loose connection.
I noticed that you have two cables entering the pannel with only one cable connector... That is not as regulation stipulate. Look it up, it is a nice topic for a video.
Ben,
I was surprised how many needed tightening. Also surprised how much force you seemed to be using to satisfy 36 in lbs. I'm going over mine to tighten them up a bit.
Question :
Just got a sub-panel installed in my carport w/ 100 amps and now I'd like to run circuits. I have the power coming from the box inside a raised home, up through the bottom of the sub-panel box though about a 2" pipe. The top f the sub-panel has another 2" pipe capped off but I only see 1 (1/2") knock out and 1 (3/4") knock out on the lower left side of the box.
I'm going to running several circuits. Maybe 4 (110v) circuits and 2 (220v) circuits. And eventually I'd like to run another 100 or 90amp circuit out the top of the carport sub-panel box to a new box in a future shop space about 50 yds away.
My Sub-panel box has room for 12 single breakers, so :
a.) How do I fit all the wires for that many circuits in the knock outs provided ??
b.) Or, can I cut new holes to accept more circuits ??
c.) How many 12/2 romex or 10/3 romex can a 1/2" &/or 3/4" knockout hold comfortably ?? (do I need a knockout for each circuit) ??
Thank you for your generous consideration,
Sincerely ......................
Subscriber Steph !!
Leesville, LA.
What about the bus bars?
You didn’t check the grounds and neutrals?
So you turned off the main breaker at the top of the panel before you did that
Benjamin, Thanks for another quality video! Short comment: Don't forget the Neutrals. I see this loose connection problem a lot. So, the Neutral bus connections should also be checked when performing this procedure. The Neutral conductor connection is often overlooked or misinterpreted as a less important current carrying conductor. But, with the increased influx of electronics and switching power supplies, the potential for harmonics in the local electrical system is often increased and so, increases the need for maintaining the integrity of the Neutral conductors and connections. The "Unseen load" created by Harmonics in a system can be problematic and in some cases calls for up sizing the Neutrals. Thanks again!
300 $ for this on Amazon... really sounds crazy.
Thanks Ben. 👍I just checked my Main Panel and there were 6-8 loose connections to the breakers. 1 was really loose.
Unsettling that this isn't more common knowledge even to the consumers.
They may have loosened over time. Also, I doubt barely anyone used a torque screwdriver in the old days so they just went by feel.
How to install arc fault breaker
It's the same process that I explained in this video: ua-cam.com/video/zpIIYWhCFgo/v-deo.html
Why didn’t you check the neutrals. The are very important for 120 circuits!
Hello from north east Montana.
10 miles from the Canadian border.
It’s so very fun for me,
so i tell you: I have the hobby to spread science by asking people for watch-suggests and also offer the same.
I used a torque screwdriver when installing a couple of Siemens panels in my house. My memory was that their torque spec was far lower. 10 to 12 in/lb maybe? I would have absolutely overtorqued those without the screwdriver.
For $200 I’m quite surprised that no bits are included.
The $250 pne has them included! What a bargain!
Wiha is designed and assembled in Germany where average salary is 2800EUR or $3120 and additionally to personnel salary Wiha should return trade credit with percents. If Chinese authorities are regulating financial streams, German authorities believe in transparent hand of market which automatically regulating economy. That is why Wiha costs expensive.
How many cables in one panel knockout?
Two 12/2 or 14/2 cables.
This is not a proper method of verifying proper torque was applied when the connection was originally assembled.
Wire God could you show us what the wire looks like after proper torque ..as a electrician it was unterstood its gotta be tight too be right ..but now im thinking being popeye might be a bad thing which it is ..and some and myself in the past have squashed the wire ..so a look at a proper torque by appearance maybe insightful
I know you smiled when you read wire god ..so you should your doing a amazing job on the videos
Maybe it is not the wire that is so loose, maybe the threads of the screw is stripping out.
Funny I had assumed people were over tightening terminals.
Some electricians got used to aluminium wires and they have fear to tight screws.
Not as surprising looking at the wire hold down nails bent sideways beside the panel 😂
It’s so very fun for me,
so i tell you: I have the hobby to spread science by asking people for watch-suggests and also offer the same.
I always over torque, might be a good investment for me.
For 200 bucks that hing needs to b bringing breakfast for a week also.
No kidding.
Are you a master electrician?
Apprentice.
@Benjamin Sahlstrom Yea me too I'm a journeyman plumber as well hope to get master in both someday. 2 more months and I can take my plumbing master exam.
So ..what about using a torque wrench
36 in/lbs is 3 ft/lbs; if you have a torque wrench that goes that low it would work
@@bobby_greene The 1/4 torque wrenches are commonly in inch/pounds. They usually handle somewhere around 20-200 inch/pounds, so would work for this application. Maybe $50 on Amazon.
We're any connections chard ???
Not that I saw.
That amount of tightening at 36 inch/lbs will surely strip a few of those breakers. Spec or not that's too tight imo
way too tight
$200 torque driver and it doesn't come with bits you need. That gives me a headache. 😣
No kidding!
Good show. I don’t know about that $200.00 screw driver. Not a big fan of buying tools that I won’t use once a year or so. I have had to tighten my breakers every so often. Yet I didn’t know they made those Torcs drivers. Not an electrician.
Yeah I totally know what you mean. Might be a case where you could maybe borrow one from a friend or use a standard header torque wrench with an insulated adapter: amzn.to/3rXPrR8
Embarrassing that many supply houses only carry Klein Ideal etc.
I mean, Klein and Ideal are pretty fabulous but I agree that more options are nice to have.
Tight is tight …too tight is broke.
Jeez - treat yourself to a new set of regular screwdrivers the insulation is hanging off!
Can't afford it after buying the 200.00 torque screw driver !
I wouldn't buy one of those - too expensive. I work on cars and know the relative difference between snug and pretty-tight. Seeing how things (solid wire) were operating OK prior to tightening, an even tighter clamp will probably put it in the OK range.
Just wondering how the threads of the screw hold up after that much torque.
@@kennylavay8492 I agree. Looks like a lot even if they are designed for it. I would actually do less tightening since I've _fixed too many things until they're broken_ .
Specs are only required because artisans are leaving the workforce and being replaced by cookie-cutter crackerjack box cert holders.....they "must follow guidelines" instead of "that's good enough because 50 years experience." lol
There's definitely some truth to that.
Through hysteresis they will become loose again.
.000001 of electricians use torque wrenches. Haha.
For that money, I'd rather get the Klein/CDI, and they don't need that additional adjustment tool, and they take standard 1/4" bits.
And made in the USA. Too many youtubers with German fever...
also: torquing on live terminals with an insulated driver? if they are running hot (temp too high), wouldn't that mess up the torque procedure? also, as you demonstrated, you often have to take the breaker out to know the torque spec.
Too many youtubers with insulated handle fever...
Excellent points. I should get the Klein version and make a comparison video. What model do you recommend?
@@BenjaminSahlstrom I would love to see the "Klein Tools Screwdriver Set, Torque, 6-Piece, Black, Model:57032" in action.
Or the OEM version: "CDI Torque 401SM Micro Adjustable Torque Screwdriver, Torque Range 5 to 40-Inch Pounds, 1/4-Inch"
@@wim0104 if you are adding a breaker to a live panel the insulated handle is very nice
@@wim0104 a lot of countries also have higher safety standards and require electricians to use insulated tools