The item he called a mullion is actually a fixed meeting rail and the screw(s) used to attach to the frame is where the liquid came through. The screws should have been sealed at the factory, BUT they are outside the drainage plane (nailing fin) and therefore would not leak into the interior of the building. The procedure that he explains is called a sill dam test and is quite common to check for manufacturing defects.
Just had a company install 10 windows that all had manufacturing defects. Same company install the same windows at my other home zero issue. it's like they bought this batch off wish. The windows are the same model number but they are not the same quality and they leak from the top through the vinyl not the flashing. Good news is we are upgrading to a better brand and the installer is kindly working with us.
thanks Matt. nicely done. any suggestions for a window that's leaking inside, between where the top of the window meets with the wooden opening? any thoughts greatly appreciated. best, Jason
In Canada windows must meet Energy requirements plus water penetration, positive and negative air pressure with a size tested. Window labels must display that value. Installation requires a backer rod between the rough stud and window to act as an air barrier and act as a seal for expansion/contraction. Bottom sill blocks are to PT or Plastic material.Sloped sills are good building practice but not required.Top of windows require a head flashing Some areas windows have the brick mold tops cut out to allow the siding to tuck in behind the window flange and not use a flashing. this is no good as it allows water drainage between the siding and building paper. Code requires a flashing with end dams at the window.
I'm not sure the leak you had is an issue. Yes it dripped through the screws securing the fixed meeting stile. However, this area is to the EXTERIOR of the weather resistant barrier (WRB). The water would either hit the trim and drain to the outside, or it would hit the sill flashing and run down the WRB.
+Jason Seals generally I agree. However many people are using these in retrofit applications and the WRB may be insufficient or non existent. In a new home that would be true.
I thought the same. I would be worrying about it inside the WRB and beyond, not necessarily there (unless it was a wood-based siding, I suppose). I have seen weep holes become clogged or otherwise not functioning well very early in the life of the building, especially in wet / wooded climates.
In the 1806 Stone house I'm renovating.. the current window's rattle as I walk by them... lol.. I bet they leak a little.. do you have any recommendation for a nice quality window? Keep in mind we would like them to look historically correct too. Thanks!
+CafeManning I'm a fan of Marvin. They make historic Wood and Clad Wood windows plus their fiberglass Integrity line is pretty awesome. Been using them for 12 years now with no issues
Thanks for the Tip. Time To Make the Window Manufacturer Improve their Process. 20% is a bit high. You would think they would do a better in house quality Inspection before it leaves the plant. They could save so much in shipping alone let alone repeat customer satisfaction. 20% is a good way to loose customers and create competition to put themselves out of business.
Matt...I am looking to build a custom home in North Carolina....can you recommend a home builder like yourself? Do you like the national builders like Toll Brothers, Pulte, etc?
We have an old lake house with sliding aluminum windows around a sunroom that was previously a screened in porch. They were installed in 1989 and leak on the inside. All weep holes have been cleaned out. If you pour water into them some goes out the deep holes but then comes from the corners and runs inside. Huge problem in a storm. I think factory caulking inside frames is cracked. Can these be taken out and repaired?
Can you post on how to install inoperable windows, without flange. Essentially store front windows, floor to ceiling, but in private residential. And how to make it leak proof!
I have a leaky window, the water breached and it’s damaging the wall & sill. What do I need to do? Can this be repaired or does the window need to be replaced?
Great idea, thanks for the tip! I realize every window type/manufacturer is different, but how could you perform a similar test on a casement window when there's no sash cavity to fill? Any danger of staining a wood or wood-clad window with the colored water?
20% is high, maybe when shipped gaps open, either way they are not addressing the problem. I have what looks like the same window in a 4' x 6', it's build on block walls so not too worried.
when you burn it so far that the crocodile skin look. the top service is getting brittle. what kind of stuff do you put on top then? like an oil? or epoxy or just normal varnish? thank you
Always flash windows with the assumption that they are not water-tight. Better yet, design your house so that windows have an overhang above them so they aren't constantly exposed to the elements. Have fun telling your architect that too. :)
I'm an architect -arguing- discussing options with my contractor about the very issue! We're looking at doing a window buck/trim surround that projects beyond the face of the window to offer more protection. I may ultimately acquiesce...
In Australia we have very lax building standards. It’s great to listen to Matt and watch his videos. I notice that he doesn’t build with ICF. I would like to see the process of fitting a window to an ICF wall.
I have an overhang, gutters, and I had water inside on my sill today. I believe the water likely hit right on the window but why did it bypass the window itself?
When you do find a window that leaks, that you have already installed can you bring it back to the big box store after the fact? I have a window upstairs that is leaking and after seeing this video this might be the issue. Thank you for teaching us this trick 👍.
Mans Best Friend Catering I had this problem on mid grade vinyl, so I cleaned the area with alcohol and used silicone sealant at the joints. worked so far, 6 months. I noticed discoloration at the bad joints a year after installation.
first off I just wanna say thanks for the awesome informative videos. I always look forward to seeing more and more videos that you put on you channel. Please let me know the name brand of the vinyl window in this video. thanks again.
I’m confused. The “leak” is even farther outside the structure than the weep holes. It will cause zero problems.True it should not leak. But this is actually a non issue. You didn’t find a problem so you made one up. But the take away from the video is valid DON’T BUY CHEAP WINDOWS. Even if your “test” was a failure. A much more common and more serious problem with cheap windows is their design allows too much water to enter the system overwhelming the weep system in a heavy storm. And the fact your “friend “ buys windows with a 20% failure rate says a lot about him as a builder.I repaired leaking windows in large building complexes and in high rise buildings for over 40 years.And I got a lot of work because of guys like him.
Yes, I was joking. Ouch, on yours however. On another note: Some previous owner on my house cut a roof rafter because it was in the way of installing a wood burning stove pipe! Yikes!
The item he called a mullion is actually a fixed meeting rail and the screw(s) used to attach to the frame is where the liquid came through. The screws should have been sealed at the factory, BUT they are outside the drainage plane (nailing fin) and therefore would not leak into the interior of the building. The procedure that he explains is called a sill dam test and is quite common to check for manufacturing defects.
Just had a company install 10 windows that all had manufacturing defects. Same company install the same windows at my other home zero issue. it's like they bought this batch off wish. The windows are the same model number but they are not the same quality and they leak from the top through the vinyl not the flashing.
Good news is we are upgrading to a better brand and the installer is kindly working with us.
thanks Matt. nicely done. any suggestions for a window that's leaking inside, between where the top of the window meets with the wooden opening? any thoughts greatly appreciated. best, Jason
In Canada windows must meet Energy requirements plus water penetration, positive and negative air pressure with a size tested. Window labels must display that value.
Installation requires a backer rod between the rough stud and window to act as an air barrier and act as a seal for expansion/contraction. Bottom sill blocks are to PT or Plastic material.Sloped sills are good building practice but not required.Top of windows require a head flashing
Some areas windows have the brick mold tops cut out to allow the siding to tuck in behind the window flange and not use a flashing. this is no good as it allows water drainage between the siding and building paper. Code requires a flashing with end dams at the window.
+Steve Nason nice. All good requirements
Thanks for sharing this. Your channel is probably the best I've seen for building science.
I'm not sure the leak you had is an issue. Yes it dripped through the screws securing the fixed meeting stile. However, this area is to the EXTERIOR of the weather resistant barrier (WRB). The water would either hit the trim and drain to the outside, or it would hit the sill flashing and run down the WRB.
+Jason Seals generally I agree. However many people are using these in retrofit applications and the WRB may be insufficient or non existent. In a new home that would be true.
I thought the same. I would be worrying about it inside the WRB and beyond, not necessarily there (unless it was a wood-based siding, I suppose). I have seen weep holes become clogged or otherwise not functioning well very early in the life of the building, especially in wet / wooded climates.
Ty for the video! If you add water and nothing leaks, what should you do to get the water out of there? (newb question)
I have this problem on an already installed window- trying to find a way to fix after its installed
Sir this really helped. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
Who is your buddy in Seattle? I'm always looking for good contractors. Your recommendation would save me a lot of money and time.
In the 1806 Stone house I'm renovating.. the current window's rattle as I walk by them... lol.. I bet they leak a little.. do you have any recommendation for a nice quality window? Keep in mind we would like them to look historically correct too. Thanks!
+CafeManning I'm a fan of Marvin. They make historic Wood and Clad Wood windows plus their fiberglass Integrity line is pretty awesome. Been using them for 12 years now with no issues
That's good to hear. i have a good Marvin distributor in my area too! I like the idea of wood. But, don't want the constant upkeep of painting.
Thanks for the Tip. Time To Make the Window Manufacturer Improve their Process. 20% is a bit high. You would think they would do a better in house quality Inspection before it leaves the plant. They could save so much in shipping alone let alone repeat customer satisfaction. 20% is a good way to loose customers and create competition to put themselves out of business.
What is the name of that sheet metal company in Austin that makes the pans?
What about the aluminum Home Depot windows?
Matt...I am looking to build a custom home in North Carolina....can you recommend a home builder like yourself? Do you like the national builders like Toll Brothers, Pulte, etc?
We have an old lake house with sliding aluminum windows around a sunroom that was previously a screened in porch. They were installed in 1989 and leak on the inside. All weep holes have been cleaned out. If you pour water into them some goes out the deep holes but then comes from the corners and runs inside. Huge problem in a storm. I think factory caulking inside frames is cracked. Can these be taken out and repaired?
Can you post on how to install inoperable windows, without flange. Essentially store front windows, floor to ceiling, but in private residential. And how to make it leak proof!
Is there a way to test for leakage AFTER installation? Thank you.
I have a leaky window, the water breached and it’s damaging the wall & sill. What do I need to do? Can this be repaired or does the window need to be replaced?
Did you ever get an answer to this question?
@@TheGo0706 did u ever get an answer to this question?
this is my problem on the balcony. It leak, a loooot, when it rains. What can I do about it?
Great idea, thanks for the tip! I realize every window type/manufacturer is different, but how could you perform a similar test on a casement window when there's no sash cavity to fill? Any danger of staining a wood or wood-clad window with the colored water?
+Josh Johnson not sure on a casement. Yes that die was for demo purposes only. Use clear water!
@@buildshow what happened to OOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWWWN THE BUILD SHOW!!???
Thanks for the video - very informative.
20% is high, maybe when shipped gaps open, either way they are not addressing the problem. I have what looks like the same window in a 4' x 6', it's build on block walls so not too worried.
sorry that i ride my question down here but I've got a question about the shou sugi ban. is it possible to do the method on a finished unpainted door?
+Maurice Van Overveld that's intended for bare wood but once the door is stripped to bare wood that method will work. Go light on the char however
when you burn it so far that the crocodile skin look. the top service is getting brittle. what kind of stuff do you put on top then? like an oil? or epoxy or just normal varnish? thank you
Mark Marky Mark thanks!!!
i'm gonna do my best!
Thanks,excellent advice
Always flash windows with the assumption that they are not water-tight. Better yet, design your house so that windows have an overhang above them so they aren't constantly exposed to the elements. Have fun telling your architect that too. :)
+95thousandroses totally agree!
I'm an architect -arguing- discussing options with my contractor about the very issue! We're looking at doing a window buck/trim surround that projects beyond the face of the window to offer more protection. I may ultimately acquiesce...
In Australia we have very lax building standards. It’s great to listen to Matt and watch his videos. I notice that he doesn’t build with ICF. I would like to see the process of fitting a window to an ICF wall.
I have an overhang, gutters, and I had water inside on my sill today. I believe the water likely hit right on the window but why did it bypass the window itself?
Great info!! Thanks for the heads up
+Scott Hixson yessir. Glad to help
if the screws on the bottom leaked...I wonder how well the screws on the top are doing...yikes.
Thank you, Matt, for sharing this information.
+cmm170526 very welcome!
Can you do a video on basement hopper windows how to install and insulate them? That would be so cool thanks!
When you do find a window that leaks, that you have already installed can you bring it back to the big box store after the fact? I have a window upstairs that is leaking and after seeing this video this might be the issue. Thank you for teaching us this trick 👍.
+Mans Best Friend Catering certainly worth a shot
Mans Best Friend Catering I had this problem on mid grade vinyl, so I cleaned the area with alcohol and used silicone sealant at the joints. worked so far, 6 months. I noticed discoloration at the bad joints a year after installation.
first off I just wanna say thanks for the awesome informative videos. I always look forward to seeing more and more videos that you put on you channel.
Please let me know the name brand of the vinyl window in this video. thanks again.
+c france Glad you like the video! Sorry but I won't reveal the brand. Best, Matt
what brand of fruit punch works best for testing?
+paul mryglod Best Comment ever!
thanks for this information big like
My window leaks it's encased no open or close
I’m confused. The “leak” is even farther outside the structure than the weep holes. It will cause zero problems.True it should not leak. But this is actually a non issue. You didn’t find a problem so you made one up. But the take away from the video is valid DON’T BUY CHEAP WINDOWS. Even if your “test” was a failure. A much more common and more serious problem with cheap windows is their design allows too much water to enter the system overwhelming the weep system in a heavy storm.
And the fact your “friend “ buys windows with a 20% failure rate says a lot about him as a builder.I repaired leaking windows in large building complexes and in high rise buildings for over 40 years.And I got a lot of work because of guys like him.
I would love to see the same test made on a good quality window? :--))))
+Dave do it yourself! I think the failure rate will be pretty low on a wood window.
Matt, does the food coloring stain the white vinyl at all? And when you uncover the weep holes,is that enough to dry out the window? Thanks.
+Randy Johnson no stains on the vinyl. Once you pull the tape the window drains quickly.
My takeaway:
Assume the window will leak. These days, the “replacement” could take months to arrive.
That's what those holes are for! I plugged mine with bondo to keep bugs and water out. LOL!
D Monty Hopefully you're joking. However, I think the previous own of my home may have done the same.
Yes, I was joking. Ouch, on yours however. On another note: Some previous owner on my house cut a roof rafter because it was in the way of installing a wood burning stove pipe! Yikes!
Testing windows for leaks.
I have seen better windows on tents.
What causes the water to build up and flow under my window and over on to the sill on the inside?
+Max Planck plugged weep holes likely
Matt Risinger weep holes are open. Walls not plumb ???? Maybe????
On the build show!!
Please don't start doing the click-bait title thing. Please.
+smoothelikejello just thought I'd give it a try on this one and see what happens. Back to regularly scheduled programming next week
+smoothelikejello just thought I'd give it a try on this one and see what happens. Back to regularly scheduled programming next week
I see you've been taking title tutorials from Wranglerstar... :)
+Brian Noah Yes. Thought I'd try it and see what happens.
Ha!! I thought you did too!! But Cody only uses TWO exclamation points!!
That's scary ..thanks for sharing.
Sill damn test 👍