How much clearance do you want between the tang and the inside of the handle? Seems to me you need some because as you said epoxy needs some space to exist in, but if you leave too much you've lost your nice tolerances. Maybe 1mm in total (both sides) ?
You want to be as close as you can around the ricasso fitting. Id say within about .020 or less. But… Ive recently used a new to me method that a lot of guys have been using. They “pocket” the gap in the handle using 1. Epoxy and 2. Vasaline covered tang. Basically: you coat the knife tang with vasaline to prevent epoxy from sticking. Then, fill the slot in handle with epoxy. Insert the tang and let it dry. You can then remove the tang leaving behind a perfectly form fitted pocket for your tang. This process is very strong and makes the need for perfect mortise grooving less important. Give it a try!
Hi from Australia. I use a metal insert to take the place of the blade, as I shape the handle. That way I don't have to worry about damaging the blade, or cutting myself. Sort of like a crash test dummy, as opposed to your first-born. Then I remove it, and attach the real blade.
Excellent video and instructions! The knives turned out beautifully, I especially like the way the ironwood handled one turned out. I'm always happy when I find a channel like this, that does nice, high caliber/ high tolerance work with clean f&f. Im definitely subbed and do hope to see more vids in the future. Thanks for taking the time to make and share this 👍👍
Outstanding vid. Just ran across this and have been a long time "full range only" knife guy, but want to change it up and try a stick Tang build. Subscribed!
One of the best instructional videos I’ve seen. For those of us that don’t have a milling machine, what’s the best way to carve the slots out of the scales?
Sorry for delay….you can use a wood chisel (smaller is better) and then use a dremel tool and/or files to clean up the slot. You dont need to make them super smooth, in fact, rough is good because it gives the epoxy a place to grab and hold
I just found your channel, Junior. What a great vid! You make beautiful knives, and some of the best, if not the best, instructional videos on UA-cam. I'm an armature (hobbyist) knife maker, and hope to improve enough to make knife making into a retirement business. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos, and learning from them. Perhaps someday you will start teaching classes. Forrest
Great video, thanks very much for the info, this is very useful for my first attempt at a hidden tang knife 👍👌
How much clearance do you want between the tang and the inside of the handle? Seems to me you need some because as you said epoxy needs some space to exist in, but if you leave too much you've lost your nice tolerances. Maybe 1mm in total (both sides) ?
You want to be as close as you can around the ricasso fitting. Id say within about .020 or less. But…
Ive recently used a new to me method that a lot of guys have been using. They “pocket” the gap in the handle using 1. Epoxy and 2. Vasaline covered tang.
Basically: you coat the knife tang with vasaline to prevent epoxy from sticking. Then, fill the slot in handle with epoxy. Insert the tang and let it dry. You can then remove the tang leaving behind a perfectly form fitted pocket for your tang. This process is very strong and makes the need for perfect mortise grooving less important. Give it a try!
Hi from Australia. I use a metal insert to take the place of the blade, as I shape the handle. That way I don't have to worry about damaging the blade, or cutting myself. Sort of like a crash test dummy, as opposed to your first-born. Then I remove it, and attach the real blade.
Awesome video sir!...really excellent knives...that's a great jig for pressing on the guard.
awesome video
Enjoyed your video! You did a good job with those knives! And lots of good info.
Excellent video and instructions! The knives turned out beautifully, I especially like the way the ironwood handled one turned out. I'm always happy when I find a channel like this, that does nice, high caliber/ high tolerance work with clean f&f. Im definitely subbed and do hope to see more vids in the future. Thanks for taking the time to make and share this 👍👍
lsubslimed Thanks buddy! I'm not the best video maker but i appreciate the kind words.
lsubslimed And i have to say, Ironwood is maybe my favorite wood to work with. It's called "Iron" wood for a reason!
Outstanding vid. Just ran across this and have been a long time "full range only" knife guy, but want to change it up and try a stick Tang build. Subscribed!
One of the best instructional videos I’ve seen. For those of us that don’t have a milling machine, what’s the best way to carve the slots out of the scales?
Sorry for delay….you can use a wood chisel (smaller is better) and then use a dremel tool and/or files to clean up the slot. You dont need to make them super smooth, in fact, rough is good because it gives the epoxy a place to grab and hold
Lately I have been making mortised scales to make full hidden tangs. The tang only shows at the butt of the scales.
great information!! thank you for the video!
Wow real fucking cool...
Thanks Bud! Trial run.
I just found your channel, Junior. What a great vid! You make beautiful knives, and some of the best, if not the best, instructional videos on UA-cam. I'm an armature (hobbyist) knife maker, and hope to improve enough to make knife making into a retirement business. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos, and learning from them. Perhaps someday you will start teaching classes. Forrest
I subbed
Hello Dad
Buckeye... unstabilized..? No!!
👍