A real mechanic. Very skilled, confident in every movement and full of good practice advices. Very few are genuine in these days of consumatorism society.
Thank you for the video. Unfortunately this capability or skill to repair things like this doesn't seem to exist anymore, it's throw away and buy new. I remember my father replacing bearings in a vacuum motor when I was a young boy. Now I am able to attempt such a job because of you're willing to share your know how. Thanks.
In order to hold the blade, I usually use a thick welder's type of glove or a towel, then loosen the nut. Many motors have a right handed nut (Shop Vac, Bissell, etc.) but some, like Hoover, have a left handed nut.
Thanks for making this video. I just temporarily fixed my Hitachi CV100 vacuum. FYI Inoticed the Ametek motor shaft had a 3-4mm Allen Key to allow you to hold it whilst turning the nut.
You seem to know way more than me about vacuums. I would like to know what is generally the main cause for a extrmely loud central vacuum? Last thing I did before it broke was to vacuum very fine dust. (Concrete dust). I know it's a bad idea. But instead of buying a new one I'd love to try and repair it myself.
NEVER EVER hit the rotor axle with a hammer like in the video. NEVER! There is a big risk that the windings and/or commutator comes loose from the axle, and then your motor is totally ruined. The rotor needs to be pressed out of its seats, gently. Best way is to use a vice. Trust me! I destroyed a motor doing like in the video! So I know what I am talking about. Since then I never did that again. Now I always use a vice, and it works perfectly every time!
This man has been tapping the armature out like the video for years with no problems. I have also used this technique over 100 times without issue. So maybe you used too big of a hammer. Since many use this technique I would NEVER EVER listen your advise. You just may not be skilled enough is all.
Hi Thanks! I have another that has no nut in front just a sealed metal-plate holding the axle on its place. Tried to sand or cut it off. There where I am right now. When putting it together I think I will put a threaded axle in the top and a nut on it so it get like yours. I took it away cause of a mechanic sound at the end of the rpms:s when it stops to run. So I thought it was the bearings.
I know exactly what you are talking about. Some vacuum cleaner motors do not have a nut at the end. The blade is a press fit. What I do is I break the blade off and then when I'm done, I replace it with a new blade. You cannot reuse the same blade again.
Almost took off my thumb yesterday doing that with an angle grinder. Disc broke and bounced down my thumb. Mine thankfully had a guard so just the thumb.
Thanks Johann clearly demonstrated. I am trying to replace a bearing in an electrolux 745 royal but the suction blade has no nut on to fix it to the arbor only a plain en withh washer. Have tried tapping but it seems fixed solidly. how do I remove this? Terry
The blade is a press fit onto the armature shaft, without the Electrolux special tool you cannot remove the blade. What I did was I had some spare motors of which I cut the armature shaft off with a hacksaw and positioned the blade over a socket witch is a slightly bigger diameter than the shaft and with a round center punch I would tap the little piece of armature shaft out. Those blades I could re use again but the motor was damaged as I cut the armature shaft off. When I needed to replace bearings I would break the fan blade off in pieces making sure I don't damage any part of the motor. After replacing the bearings I would take one of the recovered blades and tap it into the right position making sure I don't put it in too deep otherwise you have to break that one off again. That is how I do it as those blades were not available as a part.
Hi Johann...if you`re around? If only my Eectrolux 330 was that simple to get into.The housing bearing is shot,it blew the other day,making a horrible noise. I was given the vacuum cleaner 2nd hand years ago,I`m guessing it`s late`70s? The armature has a big wear grove but still enough meat left,although brushes are down to about 8mm or less,so I`ll replace them....if I can get to the housing bearing.Thing is,there`s no handy nut to undo as in your great demo,just a button-head rivet head! I suppose I have to drill that off and then drill &tap and fit a screw to secure....??
That is not a button head, that is the end of your armature. The blade is in with a press fit. There is a special tool you get to remove those, but I do not have one. What I do is, I destroy the blade to get the armature out then replace the blade with another one.
Many thanks Johann,can`t beat that sort of info from a tradesman. I wonder if I spot weld a metal dowel to that rounded head and slide-hammer it,whether it`d come out?Just a very quick spot weld with my arc welder,not enough to transfer too much heat through to the armature? Failing that,I wonder if I could make a puller?I wonder what they look like...they must be a bit trick because there doesn`t look like much to get hold of.Maybe it`s a pair of round tapered jaws that bite into underneath of domed head until it lifts it enough to get underneath? My fan still has the outer housing on it,I get the impression that the fan is stopping the housing coming off....but I could be wrong.
Don't weld on the shaft the heat will make the shaft expand. If you heat the metal bit on the fan blade it will expand and become looser on the shaft. but you still wont get it off without the puller. The puller is 2 forks that fit underneath the blade and the top has a threaded shaft that pushes the shaft out. If you break your blade, I have them in stock.
Thanks for the video, Johann. The nut you loosen @ 11:45 is a right-handed thread. Could that be left-handed on some motors? (I couldn't unscrew mine, that's why I am asking.)
Is the peice you cut off welded onto the whole shaft to the other side? Or is it just a stopper/bushing. (The piece at the end that looks like a wedding cake with 2 layers) In other words could the bearing be removed possibly with a puller?
0:54 i love this video...but I absolutely cannot get that to work for the life of me. The nut will.not.budge. This motor is for an upright though so it protrudes out the other side, and I've even tried grabbing it tight with a drill and it still won't budge. I don't know what to do :\ ....I managed to get it using locking pliers but I don't know what I would have done if this wasn't an upright model.
Some motors have a left hand thread on the armature shaft. So determine the direction before you attempt to open it. On stubborn ones you can apply a bit of heat to the nut before undoing it.
@c s , i have a similar motor housing like johann's... Mine is a dyson dc28c motor The solution is in your user name!🤔 1.I've removed the brushes. 2. Measured commutator's approx diameter (there are "windows/accesses around on the housing on the commutator end to do so)) 3. I cut a piece of wood the size i can easily insert through the windows.(for this type of motor i cut:100mmx10mmx25 piece. 100mm is needed (explain later) you can change the other two dimensions as per your requirement. 4. I drilled a 20mm ish hole at the half of the lenght at 50mm mark of the wood (flat side, the 25mm side in my case). 5. I cut the wood in half at the CENTRE (!) of the hole. Now you have two pieces of wood with reduced lenght approx 50mm each, and most importantly a C-shape ends on one end on both (because you cut the hole in half) getting similar ish radius as the commutator.. 6. Glue some soft material in the Cs(like your name lol), 1mm leather, foam, rubber (bicycle inner tube works great) for not damaging the commutators surface. 7. Insert the pieces, Cs faCe forward through the "windows" up to the commutator. Due to the 50mm lenghts you have a little overhang on the housing... Use any G or F ir whatever clamp to push the pieces together (commutator is between the Cs) and now you have a SOLID shaft to loose the impellers nut...which could be left or right... Watch out the wiring! Hope it helps! Thanks to Johann for the video! Rgds AB Uk
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A real mechanic. Very skilled, confident in every movement and full of good practice advices. Very few are genuine in these days of consumatorism society.
Yes, it's easy to see he's experienced and knows what he's doing.
Thank you for the video. Unfortunately this capability or skill to repair things like this doesn't seem to exist anymore, it's throw away and buy new. I remember my father replacing bearings in a vacuum motor when I was a young boy. Now I am able to attempt such a job because of you're willing to share your know how. Thanks.
Thank you. I needed to see that. I have two vacuum cleaner motors that need to have the bearings replaced.
Lots of great advice. Many thanks for sharing your know-how, Johann!
In order to hold the blade, I usually use a thick welder's type of glove or a towel, then loosen the nut.
Many motors have a right handed nut (Shop Vac, Bissell, etc.) but some, like Hoover, have a left handed nut.
Thank you good sir for sharing your knowledge.. I'll try to fix my vaccum cleaner soon..
Very nicely explained Johann. Thanks.
11:30: Hand + nerves like steel :-)
Thanks for sharing this. It was a big help
Thanks for making this video.
I just temporarily fixed my Hitachi CV100 vacuum.
FYI Inoticed the Ametek motor shaft had a 3-4mm Allen Key to allow you to hold it whilst turning the nut.
Tq teacher...learnt a lot from u about vacuum dismantling...
You seem to know way more than me about vacuums. I would like to know what is generally the main cause for a extrmely loud central vacuum? Last thing I did before it broke was to vacuum very fine dust. (Concrete dust). I know it's a bad idea. But instead of buying a new one I'd love to try and repair it myself.
If your fan blade is off balance either due to something stuck on it or a piece broken off of it, it will create a lot of noise.
NEVER EVER hit the rotor axle with a hammer like in the video. NEVER! There is a big risk that the windings and/or commutator comes loose from the axle, and then your motor is totally ruined. The rotor needs to be pressed out of its seats, gently. Best way is to use a vice.
Trust me! I destroyed a motor doing like in the video! So I know what I am talking about. Since then I never did that again. Now I always use a vice, and it works perfectly every time!
Same thing for the bearings of course. Press them off and on. Do NOT use a hammer.
This man has been tapping the armature out like the video for years with no problems. I have also used this technique over 100 times without issue. So maybe you used too big of a hammer. Since many use this technique I would NEVER EVER listen your advise. You just may not be skilled enough is all.
Hi Thanks! I have another that has no nut in front just a sealed metal-plate holding the axle on its place. Tried to sand or cut it off. There where I am right now. When putting it together I think I will put a threaded axle in the top and a nut on it so it get like yours. I took it away cause of a mechanic sound at the end of the rpms:s when it stops to run. So I thought it was the bearings.
I know exactly what you are talking about. Some vacuum cleaner motors do not have a nut at the end. The blade is a press fit. What I do is I break the blade off and then when I'm done, I replace it with a new blade. You cannot reuse the same blade again.
its the FONZ of metal working and diy projects
Almost took off my thumb yesterday doing that with an angle grinder. Disc broke and bounced down my thumb. Mine thankfully had a guard so just the thumb.
Thank you, totally helpful
Thanks Johann clearly demonstrated. I am trying to replace a bearing in an electrolux 745 royal but the suction blade has no nut on to fix it to the arbor only a plain en withh washer. Have tried tapping but it seems fixed solidly. how do I remove this?
Terry
The blade is a press fit onto the armature shaft, without the Electrolux special tool you cannot remove the blade. What I did was I had some spare motors of which I cut the armature shaft off with a hacksaw and positioned the blade over a socket witch is a slightly bigger diameter than the shaft and with a round center punch I would tap the little piece of armature shaft out. Those blades I could re use again but the motor was damaged as I cut the armature shaft off. When I needed to replace bearings I would break the fan blade off in pieces making sure I don't damage any part of the motor. After replacing the bearings I would take one of the recovered blades and tap it into the right position making sure I don't put it in too deep otherwise you have to break that one off again. That is how I do it as those blades were not available as a part.
Amazing. You know your stuff.
Thankyou!!!
Thank you, very detailed. Can you recommend a source for the bearings and are these special of common sealed ones? Are there many standard sizes?
You eneed high RPM bearings for things like vacuum cleaners, power tools, et cetera.
Hi Johann...if you`re around?
If only my Eectrolux 330 was that simple to get into.The housing bearing is shot,it blew the other day,making a horrible noise.
I was given the vacuum cleaner 2nd hand years ago,I`m guessing it`s late`70s?
The armature has a big wear grove but still enough meat left,although brushes are down to about 8mm or less,so I`ll replace them....if I can get to the housing bearing.Thing is,there`s no handy nut to undo as in your great demo,just a button-head rivet head! I suppose I have to drill that off and then drill &tap and fit a screw to secure....??
That is not a button head, that is the end of your armature. The blade is in with a press fit. There is a special tool you get to remove those, but I do not have one. What I do is, I destroy the blade to get the armature out then replace the blade with another one.
Many thanks Johann,can`t beat that sort of info from a tradesman.
I wonder if I spot weld a metal dowel to that rounded head and slide-hammer it,whether it`d come out?Just a very quick spot weld with my arc welder,not enough to transfer too much heat through to the armature?
Failing that,I wonder if I could make a puller?I wonder what they look like...they must be a bit trick because there doesn`t look like much to get hold of.Maybe it`s a pair of round tapered jaws that bite into underneath of domed head until it lifts it enough to get underneath?
My fan still has the outer housing on it,I get the impression that the fan is stopping the housing coming off....but I could be wrong.
Don't weld on the shaft the heat will make the shaft expand. If you heat the metal bit on the fan blade it will expand and become looser on the shaft. but you still wont get it off without the puller. The puller is 2 forks that fit underneath the blade and the top has a threaded shaft that pushes the shaft out. If you break your blade, I have them in stock.
Hammer it is the best tool ever !!!))))
Great job thanks so much
Thanks for the video, Johann.
The nut you loosen @ 11:45 is a right-handed thread. Could that be left-handed on some motors?
(I couldn't unscrew mine, that's why I am asking.)
Yes it could be. Normally the direction the motor spins in will tighten the nut. So to loosen it go the opposite way of the motor direction.
@@JDNelRefrigeration Thank you.
Is the peice you cut off welded onto the whole shaft to the other side? Or is it just a stopper/bushing. (The piece at the end that looks like a wedding cake with 2 layers) In other words could the bearing be removed possibly with a puller?
There is nothing welded in a vacuum cleaner motor. You use a bearing puller to take the bearings off.
I have a vacuum lamb electric motor with a metal pressed on cooling fan, how would i remove the fan and get it back on would you know?
What I do is I break the fan blade off the shaft. Once the bearings have been changed I press fit a new fan blade on.
Thanks...I will call the company and order a new fan..do you press fit with a hydraulic press?
@@douglasfurlong1 No. I don't have a hydraulic press. I press it in with my bench vice.
OK thanks..i hate when companies do things like this..just use a revers thread..would make life so much easier!!
0:54 i love this video...but I absolutely cannot get that to work for the life of me. The nut will.not.budge. This motor is for an upright though so it protrudes out the other side, and I've even tried grabbing it tight with a drill and it still won't budge. I don't know what to do :\ ....I managed to get it using locking pliers but I don't know what I would have done if this wasn't an upright model.
Some motors have a left hand thread on the armature shaft. So determine the direction before you attempt to open it. On stubborn ones you can apply a bit of heat to the nut before undoing it.
Hi Johann,
Even when I hold the fan impeller stationary, the shaft continues to spin with the nut. How do I stop the shaft from spinning?
Thanks!
I tap the spanner with a hammer.
@@JDNelRefrigeration Yup, I followed the video. Even tapping causes the shaft to spin. Have you encountered this before?
@@Kebersox Yes, just tap the spanner harder.
@@Kebersox I used a ¼" impact driver. The inertial mass of the rotor is what we are using both ways.
@c s , i have a similar motor housing like johann's...
Mine is a dyson dc28c motor
The solution is in your user name!🤔
1.I've removed the brushes.
2. Measured commutator's approx diameter (there are "windows/accesses around on the housing on the commutator end to do so))
3. I cut a piece of wood the size i can easily insert through the windows.(for this type of motor i cut:100mmx10mmx25 piece. 100mm is needed (explain later) you can change the other two dimensions as per your requirement.
4. I drilled a 20mm ish hole at the half of the lenght at 50mm mark of the wood (flat side, the 25mm side in my case).
5. I cut the wood in half at the CENTRE (!) of the hole.
Now you have two pieces of wood with reduced lenght approx 50mm each, and most importantly a C-shape ends on one end on both (because you cut the hole in half) getting similar ish radius as the commutator..
6. Glue some soft material in the Cs(like your name lol), 1mm leather, foam, rubber (bicycle inner tube works great) for not damaging the commutators surface.
7. Insert the pieces, Cs faCe forward through the "windows" up to the commutator. Due to the 50mm lenghts you have a little overhang on the housing...
Use any G or F ir whatever clamp to push the pieces together (commutator is between the Cs) and now you have a SOLID shaft to loose the impellers nut...which could be left or right...
Watch out the wiring!
Hope it helps!
Thanks to Johann for the video!
Rgds AB
Uk
Can what hoover smokes
It could be getting extremely hot.
Can bearing be greased?
Yes, but if the bearing is worn out, greasing wont help.
size or bearing number?
Replace it with the same size you take out. They are not all the same.