Ultra fast N20 motor mod, LONGER VERSION
Вставка
- Опубліковано 29 вер 2022
- N20 brushed dc gear motor speed mod for robotics, antweight combat robots, rc cars etc. Mix and match motors for different speeds and use any matching pinion+gearbox combination.
Shorter version: • Ultra fast N20 motor mod
Drive test: • Ultra fast N20 motor d... - Наука та технологія
I just now noticed the torque rating is off by 10 fold. I should have divided the grams by 5 cm instead of multiplying. You'll get the correct numbers by dividing the results on screen by 10.
Awesome video. You've inspired me to try this mod myself. The motors came out great when running straight of a battery unfortunately after 2 evening of trying I have to conclude that for some reason these spicy n20's are not compatable with malenki nano's (which is what I've been using in all my antweights for a while). I will keep trying though but if you want to try this for yourself be warned.
Thanks! I believe you can run these with Malenki HV because it has 3A motor drivers but I'm not 100% sure. I used custom arduino based ESCs with DRV8871 motor drivers to drive these spicy N20 motors.
Awesome video. Eager to see more like this.
Thanks for watching! I have couple other video ideas but I'm not promising anything.
Thiz is what i looking for.. tq so much
Do you mind sharing links to the exact n20s and replacement motors you used? The n20's I get have no where near that stall current.
Hi, the upgrade motor is this www.ebay.com/itm/403654237154. The gear motor isn't listed anymore on ebay but I believe this is the same. www.ebay.com/itm/334302973661. Choose 6V 600RPM option.
As a Foam Flinger, we use N20 motors for full-auto builds. I know exactly what motors I will be using and in exactly what blaster.
Edit: that probably wont work nvm
As an Orlandoo Hunter builder that's done a lot of modifications to them this is right up my alley! I used some old airhogs glider n20 motor armatures to increase the speed of a few of my Orlandoos. They still have plenty of low range torque but even with the gear reduction boxes (5,000 rpm) on them they're almost twice the speed they were when I bought them. In order to use them together I had to keep the Orlandoo Hunter n20 cases and install the armatures from inside the airhogs glider n20 motors into the Orlandoo Hunter n20 cases because the screw hole placements are different, diagonal vs horizontal. I've been thinking about attempting to wind an armature myself to make it faster.
ua-cam.com/video/MZpigmr2wzs/v-deo.html&feature=share
Hey! Cool to see people from the other side of the RC community! Looks like we stumbled upon the same problem.
I haven't tried airhog motors but I did something similar with ndfeb 3.7V 32500RPM armature N20 motors but they couldn't take 2S voltage for too long. The extra voltage burned the carbon brushes way too quickly. The safest voltage was around 5V which was limited on the transmitter side.
Rewinding N20 is very tricky and I wound not recommend it unless you can't buy the right armature for your needs. The easiest way to increase power without buying expensive magnet coil is to unwind each phase and "double it up" by making double stranded winding instead of single strand winding. It's a good practise to epoxy the windings afterwards because hand wounded armature isn't as neatly wounded as factory made and it can get loose and jam the motor at high speed. Don't ask how I know LOL!
By the way, can you recommend batteries or gearboxes you use in your orlandoo? Looks like 150g combat robots use the same sized components.
@@TeamJetobots hey this hobby is all about learning and sharing information and experiences in my opinion.
😅 I tried to rewind an n20 motor armature with a heavier copper wire like the Tamiya racers do... I did 10 winds and as soon as I touched the 1S lipo to it it sparked and nothing else happened. When I inspected it inside right away I saw that one of the brushes had basically welded to the rotor thing it connects to complete the circuit. So that's when I started digging into my old junk boxes and found the leftovers from my sons gliders and gave that a try. They work awesome with the Orlandoo Hunter 260mah 2S and I've used turnigy nanotech 300mah 2S (supposedly 35-70C rating). From what I understand is the 30C is the constant and the 70C would be the burst. I've also used some smaller ones from Bluetooth keychain speakers and from disposable E-CIGS. Good thing about the E-CIGS batteries is they have built in type c or micro USB chargers already on them.
As for the gearboxes for Orlandoos. The fastest is the 5000 RPM gear reduction boxes. I've failed at trying to make those even faster by removing a gear. So basically the only way I've been able to get the vehicles to run faster with the 5000 rpm gearbox is to swap in the air hogs glider armatures. And they still have plenty of torque too. You can see them running in my videos if you would like to. All of my Orlandoos are very customized. I have a tow truck that's beyond nuts that uses the same motor mods and a 1932 Ford Vicky crawler/ basher. I do go through and kind of explain several of the modifications I've done in my videos. I tried to explain the motor mods in a video once and I confused myself when I listened to it so I never uploaded that video.
I use the stock Orlandoo Hunter D4L receiver esc combo in 3 of my builds, the jeep tow truck, the blue jeep CJ, and the orange 1/25 scale Ford Bronco.
My sons Orlandoo Toyota tundra truck has the Injora AX-7s receiver esc combo which has 3 speeds settings built in and it works great. the 3 speed settings is really cool! Just flip a switch and adjust the speed trim and go.
Then there's the 1932 Ford Vicky crawler... That one is using a 3d printed crawler chassis called "baby fat girl" and it's designed by gamyrc and sold on shapeways, he designed 2 different versions, one is 90mm wheelbase and the other is 110mm wheelbase. I have the smaller 90mm one and I'll tell you right away that getting the electronics inside it is not fun! I used an Orlandoo Hunter esc (not the D4L system) andfor a receiver I used a redcat rcr-2ce which is the exact same as the flysky FS-GT2E. Together they barely fit inside the roll cage. I had to make the 2S battery for it by combining 2 1S batteries from momoho Bluetooth speaker keychain balls and then mount them on the roof because there's just no way to get all that stuff inside that tiny cage.
My tow truck has the most low end torque and highest speed I think. The high end speed is probably a lot to do with the really tall farm tractor tires I have on it which are from a Revell 1/24 scale Porsche Jr tractor model kit, technically 3 of those model kits.
So far the armature swap from the old airhogs gliders seems to be the only way to make them really fast without sacrificing the low end torque. Unfortunately I haven't seen those gliders in stores for several years. The most recent video I've seen about them is from 3 years ago.
My next phase for these crawlers will be to go to brushless motors. I've killed one brushless esc so far. It literally popped one of the chips off the board and hit my eyelid! Stupid me plugged in a 2S turnigy 300mah battery not realizing that esc is only rated for 1S! 🤦 Ironically it didn't let out the magic smoke. It just shot me in my eye with a microchip! 😅🤣🤣🤣
I still have several custom orlandoo hunter projects I have never finished and driven and I'm seriously thinking about going brushless with them all.
@@daddyclubrc 10 turn motor sounds kinda hot. An unmodified 0.5A motor had 140 turns and making it double stranded 70 turn motor increased the amp draw to 3A with 2S lipo. The rpm went from 20k to 55k rpm.
I haven't tried 5000rpm gear motors. The extra speed doesn't help if the bot is hard to control in the arena. It make sense for rc cars.
If you are interested in brushless conversions you should check out repeat robotics 16mm brushless planetary gear motors. They have the same 3mm D-shaft as n20 motors.
@@TeamJetobots thank you! I will definitely look into them.