Відео

I think it was Turnigy TGY-AN13 Standard Analog Car Servo

Thanks! I believe you can run these with Malenki HV because it has 3A motor drivers but I'm not 100% sure. I used custom arduino based ESCs with DRV8871 motor drivers to drive these spicy N20 motors.

The 50:1 motor is a regular 6V 600 RPM N20 motor modified with OT-1567 rotor and OT-1567 carbon brushes which can be bought from ebay or aliexpress. The 22:1 gearbox is from "DC 3V 1200RPM N30 Micro 11mm Full Metal Gearbox". The pinion gears have to be swapped because the 50:1 gearbox pinion is different size compared to 22:1 gearbox pinion. I made a video how to modify N20 motors and how to swap pinion gears.

It's a mix of 150 g and 1 lb fights.

Hi! I'm using DRV8871 motor driver. It works well but it takes more space compared to dual motor drivers which I will might use in the future.

@@TeamJetobots Thank you dude!

It's a 2S micro servo but I don't remember the brand.

Thanks! The spring is there to protect the servo from damage. Even though it's a metal gear servo, it's a good practice to have some kind of clutch or dampener to transfer the energy instead of bolting the arm directly to the servo.

The camera was literally attached to the transmitter. It wasn't easy to drive and record stable footage with all the adrenaline going through the veins and you're watching the software stablized version.

Se on Talamasca & Ivan Castro - The Good Place

It's custom made. 3D printed nylon side rails for motors, carbon fiber top plate, aluminium back plate, 1 mm titanium wedge and 0.5 mm titanium bottom plate.

Hi! I use modified N20 motors for 150 g bots. I made a video how to make motors run faster with 2S lipo ua-cam.com/video/FjAzhSEI_Mk/v-deo.html . For brushless motors I use AIKON AK32 BLHeli_32 escs with AM32 firmware. For brushed motors I use DRV8871 motor driver based DIY custom escs. There's an attiny45 microcontroller which controls the motor driver using CPPM input from Frsky R-XSR receiver.

@@TeamJetobots I am planning to build a bettle , ant and fair bots . I hoping that you will help me with my queries

@@adarshdhananjayak4373 I'm not sure if I have time for such a broad array of questions. You should join Norwalk Havoc Robot League discord discord.gg/ppMRZme to get answers quickly from more experienced builders.

Thanks for watching! If you want to see high res pics from the event there's a link in the video description for the album.

Thanks for the offer but sadly we already have a commentator.

Thank you for the match! It was the first real match for the sawbot you put a real challenge right off the bat! The event would have gone a lot differently if I had to fight 5 beaters or undercutters in a row. The bot is a bit greedy build in terms of toughness and I got lucky in the brackets.

Hi! The group is officially located in Tampere but we have events all over The Southern Finland.

thanks but I’m in the USA So sadly I can’t come

Hi, the upgrade motor is this www.ebay.com/itm/403654237154. The gear motor isn't listed anymore on ebay but I believe this is the same. www.ebay.com/itm/334302973661. Choose 6V 600RPM option.

Hey! Cool to see people from the other side of the RC community! Looks like we stumbled upon the same problem. I haven't tried airhog motors but I did something similar with ndfeb 3.7V 32500RPM armature N20 motors but they couldn't take 2S voltage for too long. The extra voltage burned the carbon brushes way too quickly. The safest voltage was around 5V which was limited on the transmitter side. Rewinding N20 is very tricky and I wound not recommend it unless you can't buy the right armature for your needs. The easiest way to increase power without buying expensive magnet coil is to unwind each phase and "double it up" by making double stranded winding instead of single strand winding. It's a good practise to epoxy the windings afterwards because hand wounded armature isn't as neatly wounded as factory made and it can get loose and jam the motor at high speed. Don't ask how I know LOL! By the way, can you recommend batteries or gearboxes you use in your orlandoo? Looks like 150g combat robots use the same sized components.

@@TeamJetobots hey this hobby is all about learning and sharing information and experiences in my opinion. 😅 I tried to rewind an n20 motor armature with a heavier copper wire like the Tamiya racers do... I did 10 winds and as soon as I touched the 1S lipo to it it sparked and nothing else happened. When I inspected it inside right away I saw that one of the brushes had basically welded to the rotor thing it connects to complete the circuit. So that's when I started digging into my old junk boxes and found the leftovers from my sons gliders and gave that a try. They work awesome with the Orlandoo Hunter 260mah 2S and I've used turnigy nanotech 300mah 2S (supposedly 35-70C rating). From what I understand is the 30C is the constant and the 70C would be the burst. I've also used some smaller ones from Bluetooth keychain speakers and from disposable E-CIGS. Good thing about the E-CIGS batteries is they have built in type c or micro USB chargers already on them. As for the gearboxes for Orlandoos. The fastest is the 5000 RPM gear reduction boxes. I've failed at trying to make those even faster by removing a gear. So basically the only way I've been able to get the vehicles to run faster with the 5000 rpm gearbox is to swap in the air hogs glider armatures. And they still have plenty of torque too. You can see them running in my videos if you would like to. All of my Orlandoos are very customized. I have a tow truck that's beyond nuts that uses the same motor mods and a 1932 Ford Vicky crawler/ basher. I do go through and kind of explain several of the modifications I've done in my videos. I tried to explain the motor mods in a video once and I confused myself when I listened to it so I never uploaded that video. I use the stock Orlandoo Hunter D4L receiver esc combo in 3 of my builds, the jeep tow truck, the blue jeep CJ, and the orange 1/25 scale Ford Bronco. My sons Orlandoo Toyota tundra truck has the Injora AX-7s receiver esc combo which has 3 speeds settings built in and it works great. the 3 speed settings is really cool! Just flip a switch and adjust the speed trim and go. Then there's the 1932 Ford Vicky crawler... That one is using a 3d printed crawler chassis called "baby fat girl" and it's designed by gamyrc and sold on shapeways, he designed 2 different versions, one is 90mm wheelbase and the other is 110mm wheelbase. I have the smaller 90mm one and I'll tell you right away that getting the electronics inside it is not fun! I used an Orlandoo Hunter esc (not the D4L system) andfor a receiver I used a redcat rcr-2ce which is the exact same as the flysky FS-GT2E. Together they barely fit inside the roll cage. I had to make the 2S battery for it by combining 2 1S batteries from momoho Bluetooth speaker keychain balls and then mount them on the roof because there's just no way to get all that stuff inside that tiny cage. My tow truck has the most low end torque and highest speed I think. The high end speed is probably a lot to do with the really tall farm tractor tires I have on it which are from a Revell 1/24 scale Porsche Jr tractor model kit, technically 3 of those model kits. So far the armature swap from the old airhogs gliders seems to be the only way to make them really fast without sacrificing the low end torque. Unfortunately I haven't seen those gliders in stores for several years. The most recent video I've seen about them is from 3 years ago. My next phase for these crawlers will be to go to brushless motors. I've killed one brushless esc so far. It literally popped one of the chips off the board and hit my eyelid! Stupid me plugged in a 2S turnigy 300mah battery not realizing that esc is only rated for 1S! 🤦 Ironically it didn't let out the magic smoke. It just shot me in my eye with a microchip! 😅🤣🤣🤣 I still have several custom orlandoo hunter projects I have never finished and driven and I'm seriously thinking about going brushless with them all.

@@daddyclubrc 10 turn motor sounds kinda hot. An unmodified 0.5A motor had 140 turns and making it double stranded 70 turn motor increased the amp draw to 3A with 2S lipo. The rpm went from 20k to 55k rpm. I haven't tried 5000rpm gear motors. The extra speed doesn't help if the bot is hard to control in the arena. It make sense for rc cars. If you are interested in brushless conversions you should check out repeat robotics 16mm brushless planetary gear motors. They have the same 3mm D-shaft as n20 motors.

@@TeamJetobots thank you! I will definitely look into them.

Thanks for watching! I have couple other video ideas but I'm not promising anything.

Yeah, I have used these in 150g bots for a year. Bigger bots can run higher voltages so they don't need crazy hot windings for the same amount of power.

@@TeamJetobots Ooh, how do they compare in battle vs normal n20's?

​@@deppresionmeal942 I can have both high speed and high torque to keep the wheels spinning under friction whereas fast geared (10:1 or 15:1) regular N20 motors tend to slow down very quickly if they meet any resistance. They have much higher torque overhead which makes throttle response more linear rather than on/off control. They do get warm after driving around for a few minutes.

@@TeamJetobots so these motors will be better handle another bots weight compared to stock n20's?

​@@deppresionmeal942 Yes if both gear motors output the same RPM. For example a modified N20 with 50:1 gearbox has output RPM of ~1000 which is the same as regular N20 with 30:1 gearbox. Speed is converted to torque. If the gearboxes are the same then there's a slight torque gain but at the expense of high current draw.

Jep. Se pyörii yhdellä pyörällä.

@@TeamJetobots mietinkin et näytti hieman erikoiselta! Aika mahtava et yhel pylräl