this is seriously the coolest climbing show on the internet! so many nice boulders that would go under the radar for me, and so many cool people doing amazing htings! thanks so much, i truly appreciate every episode! :)
Thank you, Thomas!! Your kind words truly mean soo much to me 👍🏻👍🏻 It’s mind-blowing the speed of climbing news these days… I’m happy to be able to put this all into an episode for people to enjoy! I hope you’re having a great week 🙂
Haha yes, these V17 boulders might indeed require a ticket system soon 😉 😂 Thank you so much for your kind words… it means a lot! I’m glad you enjoyed the video 👍🏻👍🏻
I think really hard 8C should start to get « by principle » the 8C+ grade, just bc there is too much compression at the 8C+ grade, and too much « dilution » at 8C. This is common when a new grade is introduced (9A). 8C is so wide that 8C+ is really narrow, making the 9A grading harder since it s already so hard to grade something 8C+
Hi, Tanguy! That’s a really interesting topic. I wonder if there is a fair amount of hesitation from first ascenders to propose grades like 8C+ or 9A. Does it seem too bold? Will they get “destroyed” later by armchair commenters on the internet if the problem gets downgraded? Aidan and Sam had an interesting discussion on their podcast about first ascender proposing a grade range… or the idea that there could be a general understanding of any given problem potential being a grade harder or a grade easier than originally thought. Not quite sure what the solution would be, but I’d be interested to hear if you have any additional thoughts on this. Thanks so much for your comment 👍🏻👍🏻
You’re right though, it’s most likely because 9a isn’t defined really well, and 8c is defined really well, so lots of the 8c+ are just downgraded 9a, generally because these grades are a lot of people’s first and fa’s. That’s my hypothesis.
@@stuffiguess7680 yeah that’s a good point! It seems those top 2 grades are always the ones that are still being defined. It’s such an imperfect science too.
Hi, Scott! I'm glad you enjoyed it. I think it makes sense to include at least some of it... especially with the lead up to the Olympics. Thanks so much for your comment 👍🏻👍🏻
I am considering doing a stand-alone video to dive into the qualifiers further. Talk about who has qualified for the Olympics thus far, who is still looking for a spot, and how they'll be able to qualify. I guess it'll depend on if I get the time to make the video 😁 but, what do you think?
I mean, I feel the crux is the throw from 1-2 not the pull up start, while I think pad stacking on a low boulder is dumb, it’s not enough to change the grade.
Yeah that’s a good point. It seems like sticking the first move is super hard regardless of how the climber pulls on! And then next move like you mentioned could be the crux for a lot of people too. So many micro details… it’s interesting the various styles and ethics that are important to each climber. Thanks for your comment 👍🏻👍🏻
The main difference with the sit start that I can see is not only that you have to pull up from a lower position, but perhaps more importantly, you have to pull off of the ground and then place the right foot before going up right hand. So - it basically adds a move to the problem. It seems likely that this does add difficulty. Like you said though, perhaps not enough to change the grade. In terms of ethics... It's really a tough call. If you want to do it in the style of the first ascenionist, no landing altering, no pad stack. But people will often just do whatever feels logical to them, what they've seen other people do, and/or what feels easier... Usually, it's whatever - climbing is for fun. When it's sponsored pro athletes on a world class difficulty boulder... hmmm. Should this circumstance have more strict 'rules' 🤔
That’s a really great analysis of the situation! Yeah, you’re right, Nalle and Ryohei both had to place their right foot on after pulling up. In terms of “rules” at this elite level, then it becomes a question of who sets the rules. I guess it becomes more of a collective thing that develops over time: the norms and expectations of the climbing community at large. It’d be an interesting topic to research further 🤔 Thanks for your insights 👍🏻👍🏻
Hey, William! Pretty cool, right?! Haha yeah I bet he will post about them at some point. Or a video on the Wedge channel could be likely. Seems like he’s just taking his time before sharing more broadly on social media. Thanks for your comment 👍🏻👍🏻
Wait, so in total 10 spots and already 8 gone ? Are an additional 10 spots available? I see at least 10 elite climbers on that second list which shoul be at the olympics.
Oh, good clarification… for boulder/lead it’s 10 additional men, and 10 additional women who will earn spots to the Olympics. For speed it’s 5 additional men and 5 additional women. This is in addition to those who have already qualified for the Olympics. And you’re right, there are so many great names on that list. I’m sure there will be some marvelous moments and some heartbreaking ones too in that qualifier series! Thanks for your comment 👍🏻👍🏻
this is seriously the coolest climbing show on the internet! so many nice boulders that would go under the radar for me, and so many cool people doing amazing htings! thanks so much, i truly appreciate every episode! :)
Thank you, Thomas!! Your kind words truly mean soo much to me 👍🏻👍🏻 It’s mind-blowing the speed of climbing news these days… I’m happy to be able to put this all into an episode for people to enjoy! I hope you’re having a great week 🙂
@@augustclimbing yes that's true! as long as you don't burn out that would be a pity! thank you,enjoy your week too!
@@climbing_thomas thanks! Yes, that’s a good point. I definitely have to pace myself and put some healthy practices in place to avoid burnout 👍🏻
Next week, Megatron has a ticket system implemented 🙃
Great video August, your enthusiasm for the sport/sends is infectious!
Haha yes, these V17 boulders might indeed require a ticket system soon 😉 😂 Thank you so much for your kind words… it means a lot! I’m glad you enjoyed the video 👍🏻👍🏻
@@augustclimbing you’re welcome the news coverage in a concise format is great! Also thanks for the sub, very much appreciated 🙏🏼
@@BlackdownBlocs you got it! I’m excited to see more of your content as well 👍🏻👍🏻
I think really hard 8C should start to get « by principle » the 8C+ grade, just bc there is too much compression at the 8C+ grade, and too much « dilution » at 8C. This is common when a new grade is introduced (9A). 8C is so wide that 8C+ is really narrow, making the 9A grading harder since it s already so hard to grade something 8C+
Hi, Tanguy! That’s a really interesting topic. I wonder if there is a fair amount of hesitation from first ascenders to propose grades like 8C+ or 9A. Does it seem too bold? Will they get “destroyed” later by armchair commenters on the internet if the problem gets downgraded? Aidan and Sam had an interesting discussion on their podcast about first ascender proposing a grade range… or the idea that there could be a general understanding of any given problem potential being a grade harder or a grade easier than originally thought. Not quite sure what the solution would be, but I’d be interested to hear if you have any additional thoughts on this. Thanks so much for your comment 👍🏻👍🏻
You’re right though, it’s most likely because 9a isn’t defined really well, and 8c is defined really well, so lots of the 8c+ are just downgraded 9a, generally because these grades are a lot of people’s first and fa’s. That’s my hypothesis.
@@stuffiguess7680 yeah that’s a good point! It seems those top 2 grades are always the ones that are still being defined. It’s such an imperfect science too.
Yes please; love the comp news. And perhaps a review on the Olympic Qualifiers. Thanks
Hi, Scott! I'm glad you enjoyed it. I think it makes sense to include at least some of it... especially with the lead up to the Olympics. Thanks so much for your comment 👍🏻👍🏻
Oh yay, you did add Qualifying bit!
I am considering doing a stand-alone video to dive into the qualifiers further. Talk about who has qualified for the Olympics thus far, who is still looking for a spot, and how they'll be able to qualify. I guess it'll depend on if I get the time to make the video 😁 but, what do you think?
Juet found your channel, really good commentary!
I’m so glad that you’re here! And thanks for your positive feedback… I appreciate it 👍🏻👍🏻
Que bueno que subiste lo del tecknoking 🤘🏼
Gracias por contarme sobre esto!
I mean, I feel the crux is the throw from 1-2 not the pull up start, while I think pad stacking on a low boulder is dumb, it’s not enough to change the grade.
Yeah that’s a good point. It seems like sticking the first move is super hard regardless of how the climber pulls on! And then next move like you mentioned could be the crux for a lot of people too. So many micro details… it’s interesting the various styles and ethics that are important to each climber. Thanks for your comment 👍🏻👍🏻
There is a boulder in nova scotia that is Harder than burden of dreams
Hi, Justin! Ooo that's intriguing... has anyone sent it yet? I'd love to hear any more details that you have about it 👍🏻👍🏻 I appreciate your comment!
The main difference with the sit start that I can see is not only that you have to pull up from a lower position, but perhaps more importantly, you have to pull off of the ground and then place the right foot before going up right hand. So - it basically adds a move to the problem. It seems likely that this does add difficulty. Like you said though, perhaps not enough to change the grade. In terms of ethics... It's really a tough call. If you want to do it in the style of the first ascenionist, no landing altering, no pad stack. But people will often just do whatever feels logical to them, what they've seen other people do, and/or what feels easier... Usually, it's whatever - climbing is for fun. When it's sponsored pro athletes on a world class difficulty boulder... hmmm. Should this circumstance have more strict 'rules' 🤔
That’s a really great analysis of the situation! Yeah, you’re right, Nalle and Ryohei both had to place their right foot on after pulling up. In terms of “rules” at this elite level, then it becomes a question of who sets the rules. I guess it becomes more of a collective thing that develops over time: the norms and expectations of the climbing community at large. It’d be an interesting topic to research further 🤔 Thanks for your insights 👍🏻👍🏻
Bro sweet content
Hey, Benny! Thanks so much, I appreciate that 👍🏻👍🏻 So glad you enjoyed it!
what Aidan sent the projects??? I kinda wish he post about them lol
Hey, William! Pretty cool, right?! Haha yeah I bet he will post about them at some point. Or a video on the Wedge channel could be likely. Seems like he’s just taking his time before sharing more broadly on social media. Thanks for your comment 👍🏻👍🏻
@@augustclimbing I just went and listened to his podcast. It was really cool. Thanks man for keeping us updated! =)
@@williamwu8575 you are welcome! Yeah it’s a long episode but I felt like it was really worth listening to. Im glad you checked it out too 👍🏻
🔥🔥🔥🔥
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Still so amazing that an 11-year old climbed 9a 🤯
Hope shawn comes back to BoD
Me too! He's come so close in the past to sending. It would be great to see him complete it! Thanks for your comment 👍🏻👍🏻
Wait, so in total 10 spots and already 8 gone ? Are an additional 10 spots available? I see at least 10 elite climbers on that second list which shoul be at the olympics.
Oh, good clarification… for boulder/lead it’s 10 additional men, and 10 additional women who will earn spots to the Olympics. For speed it’s 5 additional men and 5 additional women. This is in addition to those who have already qualified for the Olympics. And you’re right, there are so many great names on that list. I’m sure there will be some marvelous moments and some heartbreaking ones too in that qualifier series! Thanks for your comment 👍🏻👍🏻
@@augustclimbing ok, that makes sense.
August seems rlly fun at party's.. not. 🔲
Very fun if you like to talk about climbing 😂 Oh, also I know how to juggle... so that can really liven up a party too 😉