I've been hand filing since i was 15 my dad taught me ,,im 48 years old now ,all my buddy's magically come to visit me this time of year,to get many chains sharpened ,,firewood season 😁😁😁 in turn they all hunt ,so I get lots of VENISON and MOOSE ROASTS and sausages ,,in trade ,,works out great
Once I began using a chain grinder I quit filling! I have been to a few Oregon schools and many STIHL schools. Learning from the engineers helped me a lot. Great content.
I just enjoy running the grinder. I worked in and then managed an ace hardware for a few years and running the oregon (and cutting keys) were my two therapy moments. Just like filing there is a touch to it to get a nice edge. I am also an obliterator of gullets. My top plate and side plate are pretty much cut in "plane" as in chisel like and flat in shape across the face of the tooth (except for a little curve at the bottom cutting edge of the side plate)
@@mattfleming86 LOL. I also worked at an ACE hardware, 26 years, 5 of those managed one and 15 of those a STIHL tech. The engineers said to only to grind down only to the bottom of the side plate. Leaving the gullet alone, it doesn't do any cutting. Lately I've been experimenting with square grinding & the hexa grind.
@@richardfuerst5286 It certainly does not cut past the squared off side plate, but it seems to pull a good chip and cut well when I go a smidge deeper. Chip flow maybe? It may not be the right way or even the best, just what works for me. I aim for the very bottom of the side plate to be into the radius of the cutter in a way that the last piece of the side plate at the bottom is 90* to the chain. I still want some of that hook shape and that depth keeps me well out of the chain parts lf the chain. But it is deeper than "code" As you know the top plate doesn't really do a lot of cutting when going cross grain, it's mostly the side plate doing the work so I like that hook shape to grab any leftover fibers and cut them instead of roll them over for the next cutter on that side. Going deeper than that brought no noticed improvements. Truly faster or not, I like the side of my chain to be able to help me clean up a notch. Going a tad deeper gives me a more responsive feeling chain to that practice. If you have a beater chain, give it a shot. If you have any other tricks or suggestions that can make a better grind, feel free to share. I'm certainly not too set in my ways to change and obviously love to experiment :-D
Hear you friend, do the same here. I got a chain that’s getting down there and am thinking of trying bucking baby c filing. Or maybe get another chain dedicated to the baby C. Congrats on your new addition to the family.👍
I love how you say that it took you years to learn how to sharpen a chain. It has been about two years for myself. I used to take my chains in to be sharpened and found early that I could do better myself. I watched some of Buckin’s sharpening videos and it led me on a new path. I got into some large hard white oak this past week and I was so happy with the result. Thank you for your videos.
The trick that I have found is the not over sharpen a chain, over sharpen and it cuts awesome but the chain edge doesn't last quite as long, but you have intrigued me to try a couple new tricks of my own to see how they work
I've always hand filed. Often thought of buying a grinder, just never did it. I cut 10 cord a year for me and I also have a chainsaw mill on a 660. 36 inch skip chain takes me 5 minutes at most and I don't take the chain off. At 53, I don't remember not being able to hand file a chain. I do remember in my teens we thought taking the drag or rakers way down might help. We were wrong. Lol. Catch on the hand filing. You won't regret it. Good work.
Been watching your channel for a while now and love the passion and content. I built a light port 357 xp from your knowledge and experience. Keep up the good work!
I have been trying to learn how to sharpen a chain like this chain or like Buckin Billy’s. I have came a long way but can’t wait to perfect it. I’ve been practicing on all the farm saws and my saw. I look know you mentioned throw away your guides. I have found the Husqvarna Xcut guide is a great asset for me to get the tooth edge sharp. I hand file the Gullet then go back and use the Xcut to get the top part. I guess I’ll use it until I get more comfortable. It’s really helped me close the gap in experience pretty quick.
Love it Tinman. Thank you for sharing. I have been noticing some differences in the X Cut grind out of the box. Love that you are kickin butt on the hand file. Keep up the great work brother. 🌲❤️🌲👊🪓
That's where my bench grinder came in handy, when learning how to hand file. The bench grinder would at least straighten the tooth back out, so you can start over.
Most companies make that chain with less pull and bite is because thinking in car terms like you said the more load you put on the saw the more wear you put on the clutch . I believe its engineered in for a reason .
I had a loop of that chain cutting in a arch out of the box, the rackers on one side were a mill higher on one side. If you can get a loop of the Stihl classic chisel chain, I find it a good chain for the Aussie hard wood.
It's funny Tinman, I was watching the novice Lumberjack and he was saying that the C83-85 was 20% faster than any other chain. Well back to practice my filing ;)
Nice test. I'm not surprised at the results. Been sharpening since I was 14, (60 now) and I've learned to at least take the rakers down a smidge before using new chain. Used Husky for many years, tried the Holtzforma last year, and am also impressed. Running it on my G660 Blue (timing and exhaust) with 36" Tsumura light bar and it holds it's edge longer than most anything. Dulls files fast, but I usually use a diamond cylinder these days, especially on the long full comp chains.
Rotary and some tri-link is the same way. you'll hit some harder teeth and some softer ones but overall they seem to run 'hard' I do mine on an oregon so that dont bother me. Unless I hit something hard enough to chip it holds an edge a good while. Might have to try some hultzforma.
I remember when they went from the pre exl's, I do remember going from old to new seemed like new (exl) was choppy comparably, oregon and stihl have my heart in the end, go ahead and hit me but for especially the price on a big loop of chain the Chineseium to me, to me, cut ok. For about 8 dollars for 90sum drive links
I have the same experience with the wood types that I cut. Lately I have been attempting to cut Black Walnut that’s been blown down over 12 years ago.. I dont think there is a chain out there that can come out unscathed lol.. it’s basically petrified wood. I pretty much use Oregon exl but have tried everything.
I have the same experience with EXL out of the box, it cuts way better once the gullet is gone. I find that Oregon files cut quicker and last longer than some of the more expensive files.
It funny. When I stopped trying to sharpen like every one told me two and just sharpen the chain how I was comfortable......suddenly I got better at sharpening! I don't hate the sg33g chain from husqvarna or the c83 but I do like EXL chain.
When dealing with chains that come on a saw you bought that someone else filled, it can simply be easier to put it through a machine and grind it back flat, square and even to have a consistent tooth to start your file journey with. I bought a Sachs-Dolmar 120si a few weeks back. Ended up buying a new chain and throwing that on, despite there being still about 90% of the life left in the chain it came with. I'll just take that in and drop it at the Stihl store to put through their grinder since I don't have a grinder myself. That chain was soft and filed beautifully one way, switch around to bring the other way and the cutters are hard, brittle and the file just skipped and slid over them. Strange. Anyway I've a 24" bar and 2 chains coming to go on that saw, the existing 20" and chain can go on another of the 120si saws as I assemble one good one out of 3 parts saws.
Hi Tinman! Really Love your channel! Thank you for sharing all of your excellent knowledge with us! Congrats on the new addition to your family as well! I was curious about the Husqvarna gas can I noticed in your videos, I am wondering if you like it and feel like it was a good purchase for you? The price in the US is $85, but if it works great, I wouldn't mind the high price so much. Thank you again for all that you do!
In my area we have plenty of stihl chain but not so much organ or Husqvarna chain. I personally love the stihl rs chain. The c83 reminds me of stihl rm chain which is noticeably slower
I noticed it wasn’t running fast. It honestly looked like it was dull. I use stihl on my echos cuz i heard the teeth were hardened but I’m probably switching to husqvarna to try. It cuts ok but I know it can be better. I live in pa and the hardwood we have is hard too.
Another factor that makes a big difference is your choice in files and how well they cut. I have found that Stihl and Oregon files feel dull out of the box. Husky files do pretty good, but the best feeling one that I have found is the Swiss made Forester brand files. They cut very good with very little pressure. And they are more affordable.
Even if stock chain is sharp to start, you gotta assume that its been bouncing around in the box all the way from the factory to the retailer to you. That'll take some of the edge off. I'd like to see a stock chain directly out of the box run against a stock chain with a quick lick on the edges. Or, a ground chain vs a ground chain that has been bounced in a box a whole bunch.
Channel's going to Hell....dude's wearing a tux on camera! 😄😄😄😄 great video, Brother. I love this chain....runs great in dirty Midwest hardwood. Keep up the good work!
I run simi chisel chain. I know it cuts little slower. The wood I cut it stays sharp much longer. Lot dead on the ground stuff. That full chisel i spend to much time sharpening.
I took an old tacklebox style toolbox and now carry many chains with me in the truck. I really orefer semi chisel for deadwood or bucking dirty wood (or in dirty conditions) I like full chisel for felling. I like full chisel oregon safety chain for bore cutting (not a pro so its less jumpy for me) and I always have a few chinese chains for "i dunno if I should cut this" trees. It's too quick to swap on a new loop and it gives me a second for a water break and to let my saws cool down some.
I've only been hand filing for 2 years now and really prefer it over ground. Been loving oregon exl aswell! And don't mind the holzfforma chain I ordered with my g660 pro now that it's done stretching😅 very interesting comparison👍🏻 haven't tried that c83 yet.
Pre video here, I have that stock husqy chain was same here it done well for factory chain, post vid and walking to shop all I know far as C's is it's the c85? Whatever X cut
I cut mostly larger shagbark hickories, and have similar results. Hand filing beats NIB and ground chain every time. I do most of my bucking with an 036 running an 18" bar with Stil .325 RS chain on a 9 pin rim. To call it a hot knife through butter would be insulting.
I've been wanting to put a 325 20" on my 620p. I just don't know if I want to lose the reach my short ass gets with a 24. I bet that 036 is a beast with that setup. Same here.. lot of hickory and white oak. My ole Husky 51 with a 325 NK almost keeps up with it in medium/smaller sized wood. Kerf really matters. You get more cutters on a 325 too
Even buckin Billy will tell you a new chain needs to be "trained ". Guys that think out of the box sharp is good maybe don't really know how to sharpen a chain. I like x cut chain over exl Oregon. Had some exl cutters that were to hard to file. Lgx was good stuff but can't find it locally any longer. Just my thoughts from lifetime working with chainsaws
Tree cutting and bucking logs need a different file. Id rather a stock chain for tree cutting and I knock the rakers down on a brand new chain out of the box for fire wood. I prefer C85 over every chain I have used so far. Ont. Canada. I try to only burn sugar maple and oak. Cheers
I use my Stihl 2 in 1 file lightly on every new Stihl chain I put on then every tank of fuel it usually gets 1 stroke per tooth. Cuts like a hot knife through butter. 18 full cords of firewood in 2 days.
As you use a brand new chain, it becomes less sharp(dull). Proportionally to the amount of time that it is used. As the chain becomes dull, it creates more friction as it passes through the wood. Until the operator notices the difference in performance. If it is not addressed before it becomes too dull, the chain's heat treatment will be affected (softening the cutting edge). Then, subsequent sharpening of the chain will never match the factory fresh performance. Since the chain is now softer, it dulls faster...you have to resharpen it sooner than the first time. As time passes, sawyers become experienced, they learn to STOP when the chain loses its edge. Resharpen it before it has a chance to get hot. I This also extends the life of the bar. Why do machinists use cutting/cooling fluid? Because it reduces friction and heat build up in the cutting tool's edge. As cutting tools become hot, they wear faster, become duller, causing more friction, causing more heat.... It's a cascading effect....thermal runaway... Sometimes the bar oil runs dry sooner than you expect. Or the oiling gallery/circuit becomes clogged or restricted to the point that the bar and chain overheat. Gota clean yir saw, bar, oiling groove/slot, and the area where the oil transfers from the pump orifice to the bar. Lube the tip of yir bar with the proper lube and clean it as well. Gota have bar oil! Check it during every gas refill. After using a full tank of fuel, there should be just a little bar oil left in its tank. Sometimes it needs to have the delivery volume raised (or lowered). And that's the reason why some guys say, "it's impossible to get a used chain as sharp as a new one."
A sharp used chain will zip thru the cut faster than brand new because….the cerf is narrower than a new chain, so it has to remove less material. It WILL pinch easier than a new chain, since the cut isn’t as wide.
But only ONE round of use of the chain will be with factory "grind" and then we dress it up with our file. Same with any of the chains I have used. I have recently ground some EXL and C83 with a Techomec Super Jolly plus CBN wheel; to me they cut faster and smoother when hand filed. Have to admit that the grinder was faster to do the loops.
I sont understand why it took you years to learn how to hand file. Round filing is pretty straight forward and can be picked up very fast. Even square filing only took 2 chains and a few days to learn
Seems like c-83 cuts better hand filed to me, c-83 cuts ok..but you have to understand lm a dyed in the wood oregon fan. Seems like husky chain cuts better at 25° & Oregon cuts betterat 35° l dont know why.
@@tinmanssaws Wow, that's news to me! I just got my first 266 this week. On the crankcase IPL there's one "Protective Plate (501814801)" and then on the spare parts / accessories IPL there's two more, "Guide Plate (501444401)" and "Guide Plate (501444501)" - all three are different, and I'm missing all. Should I get all three to get her properly rocking and rolling? Thanks Tinman, your channel's been invaluable to me since your boggy 200T video all those years ago
noticed novice lumberjack was raving about this chain🤦🏻♂️... I wasn't convinced his sawing tests wasn't consistent. though he was using 0.50 compared to oregons 0.58. skinnier chain will always cut faster generally he should of been using oregon 72lpx which is same gauge. though it can wander on longer bars as they tend to be a bit more flexi, I've been playing about with my bench grinder and dressing the wheel so it cuts more like a square tooth... seems to work well, though hards woods can be tricky to get it dialed in... was cutting a big 4ft+ chunk of oak few weeks ago that had been down for a year. wasn't that impressed with my chains that day😂. this chip dump trick buckin has been doing... seems interesting.
A factory Xcut in dry ash sucks.. lol 😆 sorry but it’s true. I cut EAB kill ash everyday so I know what works and doesn’t. I prefer EXL.. maybe it’s the way I file but that’s what works for me as well.
So your hand-filed c-83 is 25% faster than c-83 off the reel that’s been factory sharpened with a cbn wheel ? Every c-83 loop I’ve made up off the reel cut purty darn quick and the top plate was incredibly sharp. Either that stock chain was dinged up or your filing skills put you in the .00001 percentile of hand filers. Even A sqr/sqr silvey ground chain won’t outcut an out of the box c-83 by more than 10% 😉
worst chain ever is Trilink brand. they have a goofy extra raker built onto the sidelinks…and you cannot cut with the tip of the saw at all! And their Trilink files are rubbish as well, brand new file will not even sharpen, just too soft to bite. Save ya’ll the money you might want to throw away, I did it for you, lol. Will grind off the extra goofy raker off that chain, just so I can use it. And I will stick to oregon files now, too. Live and learn! cheers!
o machado e a motosserra Eli Silva & Zé Goiano composição: Moacir dos Santos / Zé Goiano o machado e a motosserra tiveram uma discussão motosserra diz que é orgulho da evolução machado pra mim já era pois vem do tempo de adão você agora só serve pra fazer calo na mão motosserra dá um ronco relou o dente no tronco já se vê o pau no chão a serra chamou o machado pra fazer uma porfia machado aceitou na hora e quando chegou o dia entraram junto no mato pra mostrar a serventia a motosserra roncava machado velho tinia e naquele matagal foi só cavaco de pau pó de serra que subia e esse grande duelo deste jeito é que termina na briga das ferramentas o machado é que domina motosserra parou cedo ali no tronco da quina machado seguiu cortando mata grossa e mata fina motosserra impotente rebentou sua corrente acabou a gasolina que isto sirva de exemplo para toda humanidade e você que é tão jovem tem que saber a verdade respeite bem os mais velhos não brinque com sua idade uma pessoa idosa também tem utilidade é um diamante valioso se não tivesse o idoso não teria mocidade
I've been hand filing since i was 15 my dad taught me ,,im 48 years old now ,all my buddy's magically come to visit me this time of year,to get many chains sharpened ,,firewood season 😁😁😁 in turn they all hunt ,so I get lots of VENISON and MOOSE ROASTS and sausages ,,in trade ,,works out great
He stevie
I timed it and the hand-filed C83 chain took 6 seconds per cut. The factory C83 chain took 9 seconds per cut. Great stuff Tinman
Once I began using a chain grinder I quit filling! I have been to a few Oregon schools and many STIHL schools. Learning from the engineers helped me a lot. Great content.
I just enjoy running the grinder. I worked in and then managed an ace hardware for a few years and running the oregon (and cutting keys) were my two therapy moments. Just like filing there is a touch to it to get a nice edge. I am also an obliterator of gullets. My top plate and side plate are pretty much cut in "plane" as in chisel like and flat in shape across the face of the tooth (except for a little curve at the bottom cutting edge of the side plate)
@@mattfleming86 LOL. I also worked at an ACE hardware, 26 years, 5 of those managed one and 15 of those a STIHL tech. The engineers said to only to grind down only to the bottom of the side plate. Leaving the gullet alone, it doesn't do any cutting. Lately I've been experimenting with square grinding & the hexa grind.
@@richardfuerst5286 It certainly does not cut past the squared off side plate, but it seems to pull a good chip and cut well when I go a smidge deeper. Chip flow maybe? It may not be the right way or even the best, just what works for me. I aim for the very bottom of the side plate to be into the radius of the cutter in a way that the last piece of the side plate at the bottom is 90* to the chain. I still want some of that hook shape and that depth keeps me well out of the chain parts lf the chain. But it is deeper than "code" As you know the top plate doesn't really do a lot of cutting when going cross grain, it's mostly the side plate doing the work so I like that hook shape to grab any leftover fibers and cut them instead of roll them over for the next cutter on that side. Going deeper than that brought no noticed improvements.
Truly faster or not, I like the side of my chain to be able to help me clean up a notch. Going a tad deeper gives me a more responsive feeling chain to that practice. If you have a beater chain, give it a shot. If you have any other tricks or suggestions that can make a better grind, feel free to share. I'm certainly not too set in my ways to change and obviously love to experiment :-D
Hear you friend, do the same here. I got a chain that’s getting down there and am thinking of trying bucking baby c filing. Or maybe get another chain dedicated to the baby C. Congrats on your new addition to the family.👍
I love how you say that it took you years to learn how to sharpen a chain. It has been about two years for myself. I used to take my chains in to be sharpened and found early that I could do better myself. I watched some of Buckin’s sharpening videos and it led me on a new path. I got into some large hard white oak this past week and I was so happy with the result. Thank you for your videos.
The trick that I have found is the not over sharpen a chain, over sharpen and it cuts awesome but the chain edge doesn't last quite as long, but you have intrigued me to try a couple new tricks of my own to see how they work
I've always hand filed. Often thought of buying a grinder, just never did it. I cut 10 cord a year for me and I also have a chainsaw mill on a 660. 36 inch skip chain takes me 5 minutes at most and I don't take the chain off. At 53, I don't remember not being able to hand file a chain. I do remember in my teens we thought taking the drag or rakers way down might help. We were wrong. Lol.
Catch on the hand filing. You won't regret it.
Good work.
Been watching your channel for a while now and love the passion and content. I built a light port 357 xp from your knowledge and experience. Keep up the good work!
357 is a great saw. I hope to get one some day!!
I like how fast after the lumberjacks video you put this one out good stuff bro
I have been trying to learn how to sharpen a chain like this chain or like Buckin Billy’s. I have came a long way but can’t wait to perfect it. I’ve been practicing on all the farm saws and my saw. I look know you mentioned throw away your guides. I have found the Husqvarna Xcut guide is a great asset for me to get the tooth edge sharp. I hand file the Gullet then go back and use the Xcut to get the top part. I guess I’ll use it until I get more comfortable. It’s really helped me close the gap in experience pretty quick.
tinman the hand file is sweet the saw was buzzing .peace an love from scotland stuart an family.
Love it Tinman. Thank you for sharing. I have been noticing some differences in the X Cut grind out of the box. Love that you are kickin butt on the hand file. Keep up the great work brother. 🌲❤️🌲👊🪓
That's where my bench grinder came in handy, when learning how to hand file. The bench grinder would at least straighten the tooth back out, so you can start over.
Co grats on the baby again tonman. Love the videos. Lol I'm watching this video in the hospital with my wife having our first born also.
That's awesome!! Hope everything goes well!!
@@tinmanssaws thanks I'll be shipping you the homelite saw we talked about after we get all settled back in
@@imperfectcuts7028 thankyou, I look forward to seeing it!!
i have never heard of custom hand filing. but it makes sense every person is going to have a little different hand file.
Most companies make that chain with less pull and bite is because thinking in car terms like you said the more load you put on the saw the more wear you put on the clutch . I believe its engineered in for a reason .
I had a loop of that chain cutting in a arch out of the box, the rackers on one side were a mill higher on one side. If you can get a loop of the Stihl classic chisel chain, I find it a good chain for the Aussie hard wood.
It's funny Tinman, I was watching the novice Lumberjack and he was saying that the C83-85 was 20% faster than any other chain. Well back to practice my filing ;)
Nice test. I'm not surprised at the results. Been sharpening since I was 14, (60 now) and I've learned to at least take the rakers down a smidge before using new chain. Used Husky for many years, tried the Holtzforma last year, and am also impressed. Running it on my G660 Blue (timing and exhaust) with 36" Tsumura light bar and it holds it's edge longer than most anything. Dulls files fast, but I usually use a diamond cylinder these days, especially on the long full comp chains.
Rotary and some tri-link is the same way. you'll hit some harder teeth and some softer ones but overall they seem to run 'hard'
I do mine on an oregon so that dont bother me. Unless I hit something hard enough to chip it holds an edge a good while. Might have to try some hultzforma.
Good video. Nice message.....bsafe tinman
I remember when they went from the pre exl's, I do remember going from old to new seemed like new (exl) was choppy comparably, oregon and stihl have my heart in the end, go ahead and hit me but for especially the price on a big loop of chain the Chineseium to me, to me, cut ok. For about 8 dollars for 90sum drive links
I have the same experience with the wood types that I cut. Lately I have been attempting to cut Black Walnut that’s been blown down over 12 years ago.. I dont think there is a chain out there that can come out unscathed lol.. it’s basically petrified wood. I pretty much use Oregon exl but have tried everything.
I have the same experience with EXL out of the box, it cuts way better once the gullet is gone. I find that Oregon files cut quicker and last longer than some of the more expensive files.
It funny. When I stopped trying to sharpen like every one told me two and just sharpen the chain how I was comfortable......suddenly I got better at sharpening! I don't hate the sg33g chain from husqvarna or the c83 but I do like EXL chain.
When dealing with chains that come on a saw you bought that someone else filled, it can simply be easier to put it through a machine and grind it back flat, square and even to have a consistent tooth to start your file journey with.
I bought a Sachs-Dolmar 120si a few weeks back. Ended up buying a new chain and throwing that on, despite there being still about 90% of the life left in the chain it came with.
I'll just take that in and drop it at the Stihl store to put through their grinder since I don't have a grinder myself.
That chain was soft and filed beautifully one way, switch around to bring the other way and the cutters are hard, brittle and the file just skipped and slid over them. Strange.
Anyway I've a 24" bar and 2 chains coming to go on that saw, the existing 20" and chain can go on another of the 120si saws as I assemble one good one out of 3 parts saws.
Hi Tinman! Really Love your channel! Thank you for sharing all of your excellent knowledge with us! Congrats on the new addition to your family as well! I was curious about the Husqvarna gas can I noticed in your videos, I am wondering if you like it and feel like it was a good purchase for you? The price in the US is $85, but if it works great, I wouldn't mind the high price so much. Thank you again for all that you do!
In my area we have plenty of stihl chain but not so much organ or Husqvarna chain. I personally love the stihl rs chain. The c83 reminds me of stihl rm chain which is noticeably slower
I noticed it wasn’t running fast. It honestly looked like it was dull. I use stihl on my echos cuz i heard the teeth were hardened but I’m probably switching to husqvarna to try. It cuts ok but I know it can be better. I live in pa and the hardwood we have is hard too.
Another factor that makes a big difference is your choice in files and how well they cut. I have found that Stihl and Oregon files feel dull out of the box. Husky files do pretty good, but the best feeling one that I have found is the Swiss made Forester brand files. They cut very good with very little pressure. And they are more affordable.
Thanks maybe I'll have to order some forester files to try..
@@tinmanssaws Pferd also seem to be loved by people that use them.
@@mattfleming86 I order packa of Pferd from treestuff or Amazon or whomever. Big fan of them.
Even if stock chain is sharp to start, you gotta assume that its been bouncing around in the box all the way from the factory to the retailer to you. That'll take some of the edge off. I'd like to see a stock chain directly out of the box run against a stock chain with a quick lick on the edges. Or, a ground chain vs a ground chain that has been bounced in a box a whole bunch.
Channel's going to Hell....dude's wearing a tux on camera!
😄😄😄😄 great video, Brother. I love this chain....runs great in dirty Midwest hardwood. Keep up the good work!
dont need to be the sharpest .just need to be willing to learn .then who knows .u may be the sharpest tool in the box .love all u guys an gals .
Love your videos Tinman 😎 Ever work on a poulan super 33? Any tips are greatly appreciated 😂
Hi Seth, I've never worked on one of those.
I run simi chisel chain. I know it cuts little slower. The wood I cut it stays sharp much longer. Lot dead on the ground stuff. That full chisel i spend to much time sharpening.
I took an old tacklebox style toolbox and now carry many chains with me in the truck. I really orefer semi chisel for deadwood or bucking dirty wood (or in dirty conditions)
I like full chisel for felling. I like full chisel oregon safety chain for bore cutting (not a pro so its less jumpy for me)
and I always have a few chinese chains for "i dunno if I should cut this" trees. It's too quick to swap on a new loop and it gives me a second for a water break and to let my saws cool down some.
I've only been hand filing for 2 years now and really prefer it over ground. Been loving oregon exl aswell! And don't mind the holzfforma chain I ordered with my g660 pro now that it's done stretching😅 very interesting comparison👍🏻 haven't tried that c83 yet.
Pre video here, I have that stock husqy chain was same here it done well for factory chain, post vid and walking to shop all I know far as C's is it's the c85? Whatever X cut
is this a response to the other guys channel yesterday about the " baby c" vs husky chain ?
Hey Tin Man what do you need for that 372 you got off bucking I got a pile of 372 Parts just let me know what you need
Sweet setup 4sure sir.
Tinman same experience buddy. Good video.
Thanks Tinman!
I cut mostly larger shagbark hickories, and have similar results. Hand filing beats NIB and ground chain every time. I do most of my bucking with an 036 running an 18" bar with Stil .325 RS chain on a 9 pin rim. To call it a hot knife through butter would be insulting.
I've been wanting to put a 325 20" on my 620p. I just don't know if I want to lose the reach my short ass gets with a 24. I bet that 036 is a beast with that setup.
Same here.. lot of hickory and white oak. My ole Husky 51 with a 325 NK almost keeps up with it in medium/smaller sized wood. Kerf really matters. You get more cutters on a 325 too
Interesting... very interesting... Glad to hear your no longer on Grinder...lol ...😏...TC Mahalo Tinman 🤙🤙🤙
c83 is a bad ass chain i wish they offered in it skip tooth
I sharpen now with a Dremel , arthritis in my shoulders won't let me do a lot of file sharpening !
Good stuff buddy!
Give one of those a tune up before cutting pine and fir they will throw up to a 2" ribbon of a shaving
Even buckin Billy will tell you a new chain needs to be "trained ". Guys that think out of the box sharp is good maybe don't really know how to sharpen a chain. I like x cut chain over exl Oregon. Had some exl cutters that were to hard to file. Lgx was good stuff but can't find it locally any longer. Just my thoughts from lifetime working with chainsaws
Tree cutting and bucking logs need a different file. Id rather a stock chain for tree cutting and I knock the rakers down on a brand new chain out of the box for fire wood. I prefer C85 over every chain I have used so far. Ont. Canada. I try to only burn sugar maple and oak. Cheers
I also like a non grabby chain for falling.
I can personally get a new chain to cut better than fresh out of the box. Out of the box I lightly file the rakers
I use my Stihl 2 in 1 file lightly on every new Stihl chain I put on then every tank of fuel it usually gets 1 stroke per tooth. Cuts like a hot knife through butter. 18 full cords of firewood in 2 days.
As you use a brand new chain, it becomes less sharp(dull). Proportionally to the amount of time that it is used. As the chain becomes dull, it creates more friction as it passes through the wood. Until the operator notices the difference in performance. If it is not addressed before it becomes too dull, the chain's heat treatment will be affected (softening the cutting edge). Then, subsequent sharpening of the chain will never match the factory fresh performance. Since the chain is now softer, it dulls faster...you have to resharpen it sooner than the first time. As time passes, sawyers become experienced, they learn to STOP when the chain loses its edge. Resharpen it before it has a chance to get hot. I This also extends the life of the bar. Why do machinists use cutting/cooling fluid? Because it reduces friction and heat build up in the cutting tool's edge. As cutting tools become hot, they wear faster, become duller, causing more friction, causing more heat.... It's a cascading effect....thermal runaway... Sometimes the bar oil runs dry sooner than you expect. Or the oiling gallery/circuit becomes clogged or restricted to the point that the bar and chain overheat. Gota clean yir saw, bar, oiling groove/slot, and the area where the oil transfers from the pump orifice to the bar. Lube the tip of yir bar with the proper lube and clean it as well. Gota have bar oil! Check it during every gas refill. After using a full tank of fuel, there should be just a little bar oil left in its tank. Sometimes it needs to have the delivery volume raised (or lowered). And that's the reason why some guys say, "it's impossible to get a used chain as sharp as a new one."
A sharp used chain will zip thru the cut faster than brand new because….the cerf is narrower than a new chain, so it has to remove less material. It WILL pinch easier than a new chain, since the cut isn’t as wide.
How would that C-83 be in ironwood or beech?
Oh and square ground Flys. Round file is easy. But square cuts faster.
But only ONE round of use of the chain will be with factory "grind" and then we dress it up with our file. Same with any of the chains I have used. I have recently ground some EXL and C83 with a Techomec Super Jolly plus CBN wheel; to me they cut faster and smoother when hand filed. Have to admit that the grinder was faster to do the loops.
I sont understand why it took you years to learn how to hand file. Round filing is pretty straight forward and can be picked up very fast. Even square filing only took 2 chains and a few days to learn
Do you have a tutorial on how to file?
Seems like c-83 cuts better hand filed to me, c-83 cuts ok..but you have to understand lm a dyed in the wood oregon fan. Seems like husky chain cuts better at 25° & Oregon cuts betterat 35° l dont know why.
12:01 isn't that plate meant to be on the other side of the bar?
There's an inner plate and outer plate on some models .
@@tinmanssaws Wow, that's news to me! I just got my first 266 this week.
On the crankcase IPL there's one "Protective Plate (501814801)" and then on the spare parts / accessories IPL there's two more, "Guide Plate (501444401)" and "Guide Plate (501444501)" - all three are different, and I'm missing all. Should I get all three to get her properly rocking and rolling?
Thanks Tinman, your channel's been invaluable to me since your boggy 200T video all those years ago
i'm a handfiler also! i don't like the husky x-cut either! i'd rather the exl oregon!
I find when I ware my cheater glasses my hand file is much better! lol
Me to I like the 2x glasses
I like the EXl Oregon ok...but the lg pre elx model, just cut better
I liked that chain to
noticed novice lumberjack was raving about this chain🤦🏻♂️... I wasn't convinced his sawing tests wasn't consistent. though he was using 0.50 compared to oregons 0.58. skinnier chain will always cut faster generally he should of been using oregon 72lpx which is same gauge. though it can wander on longer bars as they tend to be a bit more flexi, I've been playing about with my bench grinder and dressing the wheel so it cuts more like a square tooth... seems to work well, though hards woods can be tricky to get it dialed in... was cutting a big 4ft+ chunk of oak few weeks ago that had been down for a year. wasn't that impressed with my chains that day😂. this chip dump trick buckin has been doing... seems interesting.
A factory Xcut in dry ash sucks.. lol 😆 sorry but it’s true. I cut EAB kill ash everyday so I know what works and doesn’t. I prefer EXL.. maybe it’s the way I file but that’s what works for me as well.
that shirt is got holes .lol.peace an love .
It's almost like those double drag stihl chains, they are garbage. I actually like the x-cut Husqvarna chains!
Thanks brother
Gotta get a tux tee🤣
So your hand-filed c-83 is 25% faster than c-83 off the reel that’s been factory sharpened with a cbn wheel ? Every c-83 loop I’ve made up off the reel cut purty darn quick and the top plate was incredibly sharp. Either that stock chain was dinged up or your filing skills put you in the .00001 percentile of hand filers. Even A sqr/sqr silvey ground chain won’t outcut an out of the box c-83 by more than 10% 😉
Just triangle filed a chain. Cuts good. Got the pferd double on order. And round file for lame basic ladies.
My chains look like road kill.
worst chain ever is Trilink brand. they have a goofy extra raker built onto the sidelinks…and you cannot cut with the tip of the saw at all! And their Trilink files are rubbish as well, brand new file will not even sharpen, just too soft to bite. Save ya’ll the money you might want to throw away, I did it for you, lol. Will grind off the extra goofy raker off that chain, just so I can use it. And I will stick to oregon files now, too. Live and learn! cheers!
o machado e a motosserra
Eli Silva & Zé Goiano
composição: Moacir dos Santos / Zé Goiano
o machado e a motosserra tiveram uma discussão
motosserra diz que é orgulho da evolução
machado pra mim já era pois vem do tempo de adão
você agora só serve pra fazer calo na mão motosserra dá um ronco relou o dente no tronco já se vê o pau no chão
a serra chamou o machado pra fazer uma porfia
machado aceitou na hora e quando chegou o dia
entraram junto no mato pra mostrar a serventia
a motosserra roncava machado velho tinia
e naquele matagal foi só cavaco de pau pó de serra que subia
e esse grande duelo deste jeito é que termina
na briga das ferramentas o machado é que domina
motosserra parou cedo ali no tronco da quina
machado seguiu cortando mata grossa e mata fina
motosserra impotente rebentou sua corrente acabou a gasolina
que isto sirva de exemplo para toda humanidade
e você que é tão jovem tem que saber a verdade
respeite bem os mais velhos não brinque com sua idade
uma pessoa idosa também tem utilidade
é um diamante valioso se não tivesse o idoso não teria mocidade
I can machine grind ck or cj75 to smoke 99% of what anyone aside from the old timer redwood cutters who taught me, can produce.