The M1950(Coleman Model 536) was never marketed commercially. After WWII, they marketed the 530 "Pocket Stove" (had to be pretty big pockets) which was basically an M1941(Coleman model 520) with no feet and lots of nickel plating and bosses on the fount to mount the grate frame. Neat little stoves but top heavy as hell. All these stoves will fit in the 2 piece aluminum case/cook kit. The one for the 530 is a little prettier and lighter. The 520 and 536 had a fuel/air tube, so they were technically instant lighting. But with that short fat generator that relies on the heat conducting down through the burner bell to keep it hot instead of being directly in the flame as with most Coleman products, "instant lighting" was a term used VERY loosely. Where most folks mess up the lighting process with "instant lighting" is not pumping enough pressure into the fount. The process, as designed, requires a lot of air to mix with a little fuel. When you try to nurse it, you don't get enough atomization and you get big, tall, bright yellow flame that can be seen by the enemy for miles........ Lots of pressure helps with these, but a preheat makes it more idiot resistant.
I was stationed in West Germany with the US Army in the 70's and 80's. We had a M1950 stove that was part of the gear issued with our tracked missile launcher. We called it the Track Stove. The instructions had worn off the side. We burned low octane Army Mo-Gas in it which we also used in our Jeep and M880. Having no instructions we used a different lighting method. I would pump the stove about 20 times then I would open the valve wide open and then put a lit match on top and STAND BACK!!!!!! Haha it would shoot a flame 4 or 5 feet in the air and sound like a jet engine. After a minute or so the flame would settle down and I would give it a few more pumps and it ready for heating up C-Rats. ( well really MCI meals which were C-Rats with no cigs )
The stoves came with a TM and the lighting instructions were on the stove. But I suppose after so many fireball light-ups, the decals were probably crispy blobs of schmoo stains on the fount. Haha! I was MLRS in Baumholder, Germany in the late 1980s and early 90s, I'm assuming you were Lance or Pershing? Hawk perhaps? None of our launchers had these stoves, but there was a labeled stowage point for them and they were in the AAL(Additional Authorized List of tools and equipement) or maybe even the BII(Basic Issue Items in the TM), but the NSN was there so I ordered one. I'll be damned if it didn't come in. The crooked supply sergeant kept it for himself. I ordered another one and he let me have that one. (What a guy!) Love these things! Not a fan of the pump at all, but they worked great. Soon after, others tried ordering them and the NSN was obsolete. I got lucky. They started buying commercial Coleman single burners of different varieties, but I didn't find out about them until after I retired. I had already been using a Feather 400 and a 550 that I bought at the PX. Used them all, loved them all.
Got on of these years ago. Good little stove. Leather cup in pump was bad. Spare in storage was rotten. Check valve was bad also. Made a new check valve out of piece of rubber and used a accelerator pump out of a quadrajet (don't remember if it was a 2 or 4bbl) never had a problem since.
Thanks for the info i just bought one it works good but the pump dose rise a little and the lighting procedure helps a lot thanks have a good day be safe.
That's the bad thing about this design that I hate. A rising pump means it has to be filling with raw fuel. That's not good...... Never mind the fire hazard, the fuel washes the oil out of the pump leather! haha!
The little o-rings shown in the plastic pouch at 7:20 in your video...where do they go? I received a 4 part kit from Old Coleman Parts, but even they don't know where the o-ring goes. I don't want to disassemble the fuel valve until I'm sure what I'm looking for.
It is part number 9 in the diagram labeled figure 3 in the manual I'll link below. It goes atop the fuel needle which is down inside the fount. You have to take off the generator assembly to get to it. file:///C:/Users/Super/Downloads/TM-10-708-M1950-Single-Burner-Gasoline-Stove-19511026%20(1).pdf
I'm in the process of refurbishing my m1950 stove, this video has been helpful, thankyou. But I have a question: the graphite packing in the stem, mine has disintegrated on disassembly (so has the spare), is there anyone making/selling them? I could turn one up if had the measurements out of another material like bronze or brass but I don't know if it needs to be strictly made of graphite or not.
Try old Coleman parts www.oldcolemanparts.com/home.php or possibly the Fettle box fettlebox.co.uk/index.php Good luck. If you're still having trouble, the folks on the classic camp stove forums may have good advice as well. classiccampstoves.com/
Depending on what you need: fettlebox.co.uk/ And www.oldcolemanparts.com/parts/Stove-Parts/ I think OCP has changed hands since I last ordered from them.
Hey quick question. I think I need 2 replace my o ring because I it still leaks fuel when it's in the off position. I cant seem to be able to get the t Joint disconnected for the tank. Any suggestions?
Try soaking the threads for a few days with penetrating oil. Clamping the valve in a vise and turning it out by hand, holding the fuel tank seems to work pretty well. The tank gets damaged easily, be careful.
No. I don't think the original manufacturers used anything on them. Here's links to a couple of stove forums where you can get a lot of good advice for repairs. Lots of collective experience with these folks, they know a lot more than I and should be able to guide you to a safe, damage free repair. classiccampstoves.com/ www.colemancollectorsforum.com/categories
I chose that one because it was easier to see what was going on with the windscreen/potholder removed. But, Both of them would have been military in their day. According to another commentor, the civilian version never saw the light of day.
There's 6 different manufacturers there's Rogers, there's common there's. Fiesta, I can't remember the other three, but it's the exact same stove. The mechanisms apart the gas gives the tanks the feed. Everything is exactly the same between these 6 different companies and Rogers is actually made of in the same factory. That coleman is same town
excellent display of the pre heat priming .
Thank you for help with my m1950 stove.
glad it could help
The M1950(Coleman Model 536) was never marketed commercially. After WWII, they marketed the 530 "Pocket Stove" (had to be pretty big pockets) which was basically an M1941(Coleman model 520) with no feet and lots of nickel plating and bosses on the fount to mount the grate frame. Neat little stoves but top heavy as hell. All these stoves will fit in the 2 piece aluminum case/cook kit. The one for the 530 is a little prettier and lighter.
The 520 and 536 had a fuel/air tube, so they were technically instant lighting. But with that short fat generator that relies on the heat conducting down through the burner bell to keep it hot instead of being directly in the flame as with most Coleman products, "instant lighting" was a term used VERY loosely.
Where most folks mess up the lighting process with "instant lighting" is not pumping enough pressure into the fount. The process, as designed, requires a lot of air to mix with a little fuel. When you try to nurse it, you don't get enough atomization and you get big, tall, bright yellow flame that can be seen by the enemy for miles........ Lots of pressure helps with these, but a preheat makes it more idiot resistant.
I was stationed in West Germany with the US Army in the 70's and 80's. We had a M1950 stove that was part of the
gear issued with our tracked missile launcher. We called it the Track Stove. The instructions had worn off the side.
We burned low octane Army Mo-Gas in it which we also used in our Jeep and M880.
Having no instructions we used a different lighting method. I would pump the stove about 20 times then I would open the valve wide open and then
put a lit match on top and STAND BACK!!!!!!
Haha it would shoot a flame 4 or 5 feet in the air and sound like a jet engine.
After a minute or so the flame would settle down and I would give it a few more pumps and it ready for heating up C-Rats.
( well really MCI meals which were C-Rats with no cigs )
It sounds exciting. That's pretty much the method for lighting the older WWII stoves that didn't have a priming cup.
The stoves came with a TM and the lighting instructions were on the stove. But I suppose after so many fireball light-ups, the decals were probably crispy blobs of schmoo stains on the fount. Haha! I was MLRS in Baumholder, Germany in the late 1980s and early 90s, I'm assuming you were Lance or Pershing? Hawk perhaps? None of our launchers had these stoves, but there was a labeled stowage point for them and they were in the AAL(Additional Authorized List of tools and equipement) or maybe even the BII(Basic Issue Items in the TM), but the NSN was there so I ordered one. I'll be damned if it didn't come in. The crooked supply sergeant kept it for himself. I ordered another one and he let me have that one. (What a guy!) Love these things! Not a fan of the pump at all, but they worked great. Soon after, others tried ordering them and the NSN was obsolete. I got lucky. They started buying commercial Coleman single burners of different varieties, but I didn't find out about them until after I retired. I had already been using a Feather 400 and a 550 that I bought at the PX. Used them all, loved them all.
Great info, endo camera shots and demo! Thank!
love the confined space joke :)
it seemed appropriate
Got on of these years ago. Good little stove. Leather cup in pump was bad. Spare in storage was rotten. Check valve was bad also. Made a new check valve out of piece of rubber and used a accelerator pump out of a quadrajet (don't remember if it was a 2 or 4bbl) never had a problem since.
Thanks for the info i just bought one it works good but the pump dose rise a little and the lighting procedure helps a lot thanks have a good day be safe.
That's the bad thing about this design that I hate. A rising pump means it has to be filling with raw fuel. That's not good...... Never mind the fire hazard, the fuel washes the oil out of the pump leather! haha!
Great informative video. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you liked it. :)
Great info thanks
Thanks for telling me about the asbestos I was wondering what that was
The little o-rings shown in the plastic pouch at 7:20 in your video...where do they go? I received a 4 part kit from Old Coleman Parts, but even they don't know where the o-ring goes. I don't want to disassemble the fuel valve until I'm sure what I'm looking for.
It is part number 9 in the diagram labeled figure 3 in the manual I'll link below. It goes atop the fuel needle which is down inside the fount. You have to take off the generator assembly to get to it.
file:///C:/Users/Super/Downloads/TM-10-708-M1950-Single-Burner-Gasoline-Stove-19511026%20(1).pdf
I'm in the process of refurbishing my m1950 stove, this video has been helpful, thankyou. But I have a question: the graphite packing in the stem, mine has disintegrated on disassembly (so has the spare), is there anyone making/selling them? I could turn one up if had the measurements out of another material like bronze or brass but I don't know if it needs to be strictly made of graphite or not.
Try old Coleman parts
www.oldcolemanparts.com/home.php
or possibly the Fettle box
fettlebox.co.uk/index.php
Good luck. If you're still having trouble, the folks on the classic camp stove forums may have good advice as well.
classiccampstoves.com/
I am looking for some replacement parts for my stove, any information would be greatly appreciated
Depending on what you need: fettlebox.co.uk/
And www.oldcolemanparts.com/parts/Stove-Parts/ I think OCP has changed hands since I last ordered from them.
Hey quick question. I think I need 2 replace my o ring because I it still leaks fuel when it's in the off position. I cant seem to be able to get the t Joint disconnected for the tank. Any suggestions?
Try soaking the threads for a few days with penetrating oil. Clamping the valve in a vise and turning it out by hand, holding the fuel tank seems to work pretty well. The tank gets damaged easily, be careful.
Thanks for the advice! I'll have 2 try that. It seem they have some sort of locktite on it or something. Thanks again
Did yours have red locktite on it?
No. I don't think the original manufacturers used anything on them. Here's links to a couple of stove forums where you can get a lot of good advice for repairs. Lots of collective experience with these folks, they know a lot more than I and should be able to guide you to a safe, damage free repair.
classiccampstoves.com/
www.colemancollectorsforum.com/categories
Billofthenorth1 Awesome thanks for the info and reference. Have a great day!
I was hoping we where going to light the military burner
I chose that one because it was easier to see what was going on with the windscreen/potholder removed. But, Both of them would have been military in their day. According to another commentor, the civilian version never saw the light of day.
nice stove, but the flame control sucks... great for boiling water or melting aluminum but not so good for cooking.
For sure it is full on or off with no middle.
عندي واحد مثله بدون الدفاش او ضاغط
저소음 상향식 연소캡잇써요
model 530 not 536...
저소음 상향식 연소갭잇써요
There's 6 different manufacturers there's Rogers, there's common there's. Fiesta, I can't remember the other three, but it's the exact same stove. The mechanisms apart the gas gives the tanks the feed. Everything is exactly the same between these 6 different companies and Rogers is actually made of in the same factory. That coleman is same town