You should have made a header at the top of the panel and a header at the bottom (like a radiator). Connect the headers with vertical waterways. Convection would circulate the water also.
Hi there, got an idea for you. Maybe put it in a deep picture frame. The air gap above the black resin mold will get super heated through infrared rays going through the glass with no where to go. All the best
@@cayrex understandable 🙂 But you will be doing it again when you encase it. Without convection the surface temperature will get hotter and plastics are not known for being great thernal conductors so there will be a noticeable temperature difference between the surface and the water. If you plan on using something like this in winter you'll likely need some kind of antifreeze. Is the plastic resin compatible or resistant to the antifreeze upto the expected temperatures. If you plan on heating the inside of a home you might consider a heat pump to upgrade the quality of heat. If it is 0c outside and you get a 25c rise in temperature with a solar thermal collector, then getting another 25c rise with a heat pump will provide a better quality of heat (forcef air furnaces commonly heat air to about 49c) and return the thernal transfer solution to the collector colder than your house would have. A colder collector is more efficent at absorbing solar rays because less is reradiated away in infrared. It's good that you didn't use an FDM printer because it would have been too porous and leaked.
passive heat convection requires no pump, ie inverted water solar collector, also flash boiling of small amount of water avoids the heat capacity issue of the water. if suitable. ie flash boiling solar water heating panel. if gas form of water at 100C is more suitable form. yes instant boil water vein leaves. flash boil to purify water. maybe also forces capillary pumping effect. maybe fill the solar panel with a secondary channel which is not thin. you can directly calculate how long it will take to heat up or boil the water from the heat capacitance and the surface area of the solar panel.
the scul in sculpt is pronounced the same as a head... skull... while you are making it printed... imagine the tube were not square, so it caste shadows on the one side, but kind of smooth raised up like the body on a modern jet fighter. I; trying to think of another way....erm.. like speedbumps on the road... they don't cast shadows, unless the light is super low. would also be interesting to see what happens with two in series and parallel.
Εάν κλείσεις τον συλλέκτη σε ένα γυάλινο περίβλημα, και δημιουργήσεις κενό αέρα, θα έχεις καλύτερα αποτελέσματα, γιατί θα αποφύγεις τις απώλειες λόγω θερμοκρασίας περιβάλλοντος.
You'll prevent convective the vacuum will prevent conduction losses while encassing the collector will prevent convective air currents. But you will always have radient heat looses where there is a gradient (difference in temperature).
If he creates a vacuum in the glass-container, the radiator will simply crack and blow, according to the normal-pressure-water inside it... He doesn´t need any vacuum, just isolation on all sides, except the side of sunlight-incidence, where he should use glass...
Your control test at the end is completely meaningless. The control test is in a plastic cup as opposed to the glass used for the heater test, which means the containers have different thermal properties. In addition, the control test container is open to the air while the heater test container is not, which allows for the heat to escape easier through convection. To see whether your panel actually made a difference in the speed of heating or the maximum temperature, you probably should have made a second test container which would have been a metal can painted with a matte black paint of some sort on the heating side and ideally insulated with some simple foam on the other side. (You should have also insulated your heat panel on the rear side)
@@BirdbrainEngineer The container is also made from plastic. You know.... people are curious about many things and for that reason is better to have also meaningless tests. That test I make for the reason if someone want to know what is the temperature of the water without heater which was in the open for 20 min.
You should have made a header at the top of the panel and a header at the bottom (like a radiator). Connect the headers with vertical waterways. Convection would circulate the water also.
Hi there, got an idea for you.
Maybe put it in a deep picture frame. The air gap above the black resin mold will get super heated through infrared rays going through the glass with no where to go. All the best
Yes yes.... will do when I get sunny day 😊
You should do another video comparing bare black plastic to one painted with Vantablack
Use a glass plate in front to minimize convective air currents carrying heat energy away.
@@kreynolds1123 Yes, this I will do next time. Here I just try if the 3D printed heater will be ok
@@cayrex understandable 🙂 But you will be doing it again when you encase it. Without convection the surface temperature will get hotter and plastics are not known for being great thernal conductors so there will be a noticeable temperature difference between the surface and the water.
If you plan on using something like this in winter you'll likely need some kind of antifreeze. Is the plastic resin compatible or resistant to the antifreeze upto the expected temperatures.
If you plan on heating the inside of a home you might consider a heat pump to upgrade the quality of heat. If it is 0c outside and you get a 25c rise in temperature with a solar thermal collector, then getting another 25c rise with a heat pump will provide a better quality of heat (forcef air furnaces commonly heat air to about 49c) and return the thernal transfer solution to the collector colder than your house would have. A colder collector is more efficent at absorbing solar rays because less is reradiated away in infrared.
It's good that you didn't use an FDM printer because it would have been too porous and leaked.
If you cover the heater with VantaBlack ?😊
Yes for sure,... I need to get some sample of VB
thats a good idea👍
Musa Black is even darker
Great video Cayrex! I featured it on my website. I can post the link if you want.
Yes for sure
I already found it 😁
passive heat convection requires no pump, ie inverted water solar collector, also flash boiling of small amount of water avoids the heat capacity issue of the water. if suitable. ie flash boiling solar water heating panel. if gas form of water at 100C is more suitable form. yes instant boil water vein leaves. flash boil to purify water. maybe also forces capillary pumping effect. maybe fill the solar panel with a secondary channel which is not thin. you can directly calculate how long it will take to heat up or boil the water from the heat capacitance and the surface area of the solar panel.
Should have mixed iron oxide into the resin, more heat absorption, better heat convection, higher uv resistance. Good idea nonetheless
You don't uh, you don't know how resin printers work, do you? Anybody reading this: DO NOT DO THIS.
@@greenman360 oh correct you are right. Would only work in classical 3d printers
the scul in sculpt is pronounced the same as a head... skull... while you are making it printed... imagine the tube were not square, so it caste shadows on the one side, but kind of smooth raised up like the body on a modern jet fighter. I; trying to think of another way....erm.. like speedbumps on the road... they don't cast shadows, unless the light is super low.
would also be interesting to see what happens with two in series and parallel.
nice vid and idea
Εάν κλείσεις τον συλλέκτη σε ένα γυάλινο περίβλημα, και δημιουργήσεις κενό αέρα, θα έχεις καλύτερα αποτελέσματα, γιατί θα αποφύγεις τις απώλειες λόγω θερμοκρασίας περιβάλλοντος.
Correct
You'll prevent convective the vacuum will prevent conduction losses while encassing the collector will prevent convective air currents. But you will always have radient heat looses where there is a gradient (difference in temperature).
Πολυ σωστο
If he creates a vacuum in the glass-container, the radiator will simply crack and blow, according to the normal-pressure-water inside it... He doesn´t need any vacuum, just isolation on all sides, except the side of sunlight-incidence, where he should use glass...
Why not use white heater and paint black
Your control test at the end is completely meaningless. The control test is in a plastic cup as opposed to the glass used for the heater test, which means the containers have different thermal properties. In addition, the control test container is open to the air while the heater test container is not, which allows for the heat to escape easier through convection.
To see whether your panel actually made a difference in the speed of heating or the maximum temperature, you probably should have made a second test container which would have been a metal can painted with a matte black paint of some sort on the heating side and ideally insulated with some simple foam on the other side. (You should have also insulated your heat panel on the rear side)
@@BirdbrainEngineer The container is also made from plastic. You know.... people are curious about many things and for that reason is better to have also meaningless tests. That test I make for the reason if someone want to know what is the temperature of the water without heater which was in the open for 20 min.