How to remove fiberglass oxidation from your RV exterior
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- Your RV's fiberglass exterior can quickly lose its luster, especially if your RV is often parked outdoors in the bright sun. While frequent washing and waxing will help protect it, eventually the fiberglass exterior will oxidize and look dull. In this RV Enthusiast video, we'll show you how we cut thru the weathering and bring back the shine. We'll also share with you the tools and products that will make the job easier.
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Your running your polisher speed too slow. Also, for random orbitals to be effective there has to be some rotation to the disc in addition to the random motion.
First of all slow down,! You're not going to burn through anything with a random orbital, dual action polisher.
Secondly, spread the compound out then increase the speed of the polisher and move slowly over the surface in a cross hatch pattern. When you've polished a 2x2 area, you will have loaded up the pad with spent polish and oxidation that was removed. This needs to be cleaned off the pad either by compressed air or a towel. Your results will be far better and you'll work smart not hard.
Your D.A isn't even rotating, can't you see that? I know you are trying your best and I'm sorry to tell you this but you are doing everything wrong, you are giving totally wrong and false info on this video .....watch some youtube videos they will help you alot....
-MISINFORMATION!!!Please don’t follow anything from this video. Just leave now, you don’t EVER! compound any finishes the way this person is.
Whatever you do disregard all of this video plus I have never seen a professional use a towel a a buffer
Sir you have given quite a bit of false info on this video!
this is why I always look at all the comments lol so someone can verify the information haha
Like, he's basically every DIY'r who's watched someone do this and now, thanks to Harbor Freight, thinks he's the expert.. I should be doing a video on dentistry, I've seen it done for years.. 🤔
@@Local_BoydidgoodI'd watch that video. 😂
At that rate you will need 12 bottles of that polish
Random orbit models are slow for heavy oxidation removal, suggest a rotary model for speed. I like Mequiars 67 best for oxidation and polish in one step. Lastly, the new spay on ceramics are quickly replacing wax, and they don't leave any residue on your trim like waxes do.
What brand of spray on ceramic would you recommend?
@@mikefin70gaeyon can coat
The reason your RV fades out and your decals are cracked out is because you're using not only a car polish made for non-porous paint and not spongy gelcoat. It's also 60 year old tech, caranuba, so it breaks down in weeks if not months. It protects nothing but cars in a car show, that's it!
Your compounding needs to be done with a rotary buffer to actually remove the oxidation. All you've done is oil up the surface so it looks shiny but I promise you, clean an area and look at it in the sun and you'll be disgusted (18 years of experience)
Remove the tag from your microfiber towels or you'll scratch the surface wax when buffing and it looks less than perfect.
Your finish should look like a mirror when done compounding and then you clean and apply a wax made for gelcoat like a boat wax.. (see the description in any of my videos for a list of great stuff to use.
Try this instead, seriously..
ua-cam.com/video/mh-RPfS9Rpo/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/98w5ItWCypo/v-deo.html
This is a video of a guy who just watched my videos.
Lee
Thanks for saving me the time. Was going to say the same thing. That paint is only soaking up the lube from the polish. Also, slow rotary speeds with too much pressure is only rubbing the surface.
I've been simonizing for over 20 years and just wow! Using the microfiber cloth with the buffer like is dangerous.
I’m a detailer. I’m specifically RV & commercial vehicle experienced.
A rotary, about 1800rpm’s with a wool and heavy compound cuts through the oxidation like crazy. Also sprits a bit of water/detail spray over the decal while you’re going over it with a rotary.
I usually will come back with a foam pad with polish, & a 3rd pass with a long throw DA to clean up any rotary trails you may leave behind.
I feel like this is Satire
Wow, my fifth wheel has been out in the FL sun for 7 years and my decals are not cracked like that! (Keystone Hideout 308BHDS). Gonna do my first oxidation removal this month. Thanks for the info.
🤣🤣🤣🤣 for the love of God please put the buffer in a box and never use it again
This video reminds me of the flex seal commercial, "just slap it on, it'll work on anything"! 🤣🤣
With compound you should not be using a DA buffer.
Loved the tip about using the microfiber cloth over the pad. As always Bob, you’re a wealth of information. Love the new magazine and seeing the familiar tech writers again!
8 minutes and you covered 3 Sq ft, imagine you spent a long time.
No offense but you're using way to much product you need put it on the buffer then spread it before turning it on
I want to ask you will that work on a trailer that has white chalky lines coming down? Its looks shiny when wet but horrible when dry.
I’m no expert… but that’s not correct. Way way way to slow, the polisher needs to spin! Search and watch boat detailers work. Appreciate your effort, but it’s misleading to newbie’s.
iF ITS CALLED ONE STEP WHY ARE YOU APPLYING WAX?
Good deal,but how many micro towels do you need to buy for a 34 ' camper 🤔
Wow how long did it take to do the whole rig 6 years?
As a Detailer 40 yrs I get your trying save money but you are causing a expense mistake I’m not gonna shoot you down but everything your doing from the start is all wrong but you need find real professionals because 800 not allowing your Rv to be done right my clients once a year still looks new exterior you need experience Detailer because that trick give swirl marks or something getting caught up!
That’s not a good way to teach people to buff. You’re speed is too slow and you are using way too much compound also putting way too much pressure because the pad on the buffer is not spinning. A random orbital should still spin and oscillate. And I am a professional detailer I own my own shop and while you’re trying to help which is great but that’s not a good example
You should be using a wool pad.
!
please remove the tags from your rags
Thank you, your tips were very helpful
I use orbital for glazing , rotary to cut
Great video, however I can't help but notice how much oxidation remover you used it that small area, that tells me you are going to need gallons of the oxidation liquid to do the entire RV...
Did you have any problem when you go over decals ? Cracked, color problem ? Thanks.
Awesome Vid thanks for the tips. My camper is badly oxidized and in need of this asap. I just ordered all the same equipment, but I got a 100% wool wheel, and meguiars 67 compound recommended in another video I watched. We shall see if it works
You don't want anything too corse it wil damage the gell coat 😂😂
😂🤣😆
Thanks for Posting! Some suggest Oxidation removal then a Polish and then a Wax for Oxidized RV Fiberglass. I was applying Wax after step one. Can elaborate on the importance of a Polish and then a Wax v.s. just a Wax after removing the Oxidation?
Put your tongue back in
I did notice the buffer wasn't spinning.
I think this more to do with camera frame rates . I saw this on a couple of videos
@@rikster66jan the machine is stalling so bad
Thank you for showing us how to polish, I bought one and have yet to use it. I appreciate you
Check out some other videos. Especially boat detailing videos.
Is this a red green skit?😂
If you're "professionally" getting it waxed twice a year and still getting a lot of oxidation then you need to go to a different professional or they need to use a different product. Also, just applying a simple UV blocking product monthly like 303 aerospace protectant after waxing will keep the shine and reflection in your gel coat.
Hi, are you saying you can just apply 303 right over the waxed surface? Any pros or cons on that?
@@FortunateSon Yes. Just spray on and wipe off. Do this periodically throughout the year and your wax, polish, or ceramic coat will last even longer. Products like Boat Bling's Hot Sauce also work. I am not aware of any cons. Just don't apply too thick or you may get streaking or leave excess residue.
@@FortunateSon the new Armor all has the same formula for less money.. Yes.
Old man let the pros do it 😂
Just stick to the retailers your pin more damage than anything good your just hiding the oxidation it will come back in 3weeks maybe
More bad info.
I doubt it will make it a day, that thing is done, needs full restore, da sanding with interface pad 2k grit paper. Then 3 step with a good quality abrasive compound. Or if you really wanna half a$s it poly coat it
I have "new" 22 yr old 34' class a. Are you suppose to wet pads? Also read to keep spray bottle with water to keep wetting surface. Don't want to spend $$$ to have it done but want to improve the finish not damage it.
Next time read the instructions stay off the decals
Also, you aren't ever touching fiberglass, only gelcoat. A DA would have to be in one spot for days, running, to do any damage.
You should ALWAYS clean your surface before applying any protective coating. This is partially why you need a buff twice a year, the oils from the vokpound are laying between your RV surface and the sealant.
Your detailing buddy is an idiot who hates you and so either lied or just didn't know how to really do this work. As an example, while I can do a car, I don't and I'd never say I was an expert but with gelcoat, I'm pretty up there with the history and achievements associated with it.
You need to change your name and logo so that you aren’t in obvious copyright infringement.